Canyonlands National Park offers some of the most enthralling vistas in the American West. Blanketing more than 520 square miles of the Colorado Plateau, it conceals winding river canyons, towering rock pinnacles, and ancient Native American settlements. 

The Colorado and Green rivers are the prime sculptors in the area. Aided by erosion, they have chiseled out a tapestry of gullies and mesas that fans out over the vast desert landscape. 

The majority of this immense area remains an obstacle for all but the heartiest back-country explorers.

But in Canyonlands’ Island in the Sky, majestic overlooks provide accessible aerial vistas of the sprawling red rock maze. 

ISLAND IN THE SKY DISTRICT

Canyonlands is one of five incredible national parks the that make up Utah’s Mighty 5. 

The Colorado and Green rivers form a Y that divides the national park into four separate districts. Each district is independent from the other and contains its own set of must-see attractions.

The Island in the Sky—cradled above the confluence of the Colorado and Green rivers—is the most developed district due to its ease of access. 

The island sits atop a sandstone bench called the White Rim. Indeed, white lines trace the contours of the bench’s red earth, as though dusted in flour. 

Below the White Rim, sheer walls plunge 1,000 ft to the canyon floor. 

On the horizon, vistas unfold toward the Maze, the Needles, and the distant La Sal and Henry mountains. 

The Needles District—while significantly less trafficked than the Island in the Sky—is the other major destination in Canyonlands. It is home to a complex trail network that weaves between red-and-white-striped sandstone columns. Thanks to its comparative isolation and tendency toward 10+ mile trails, it remains relatively off the beaten path.

The Maze and Horseshoe Canyon are remote and seldom visited districts. They require 4×4 vehicles and loads of time.

Due to its proximity to Moab, it is no wonder that the Island in the Sky is the most popular destination within Canyonlands. The spectacular district features vehicle-accessible attractions, iconic landmarks and sweeping views over the fiery desertscape. 

ISLAND IN THE SKY VIEWPOINTS

The Island in the Sky boasts breathtaking views over the Colorado and Green rivers. Its roadside pullouts lie along a Y-shaped ribbon of pavement that runs along the entire length of the plateau. 

From the national park’s visitor center, the road leads past numerous overlooks and trailheads, toward Grand Viewpoint. At about the halfway mark, a secondary road branches off toward Upheaval Dome.

The Island in the Sky’s panoramic points bring visitors face-to-face with the area’s sheer walls and white-tipped cliffs. Every overlook in the district offers a different perspective of Canyonlands’ spectacular landscape. 

• SHAFER CANYON VIEWPOINT

Shafer Road is an 18 mile  dirt track located within Canyonlands National Park. Its hairpin turns and precipitous descent are visible from the Shafer Canyon Viewpoint, near Island in the Sky’s entrance gate.

The overlook sits 1400 ft above the canyon floor. Its parking lot marks the beginning of the 5 mile Neck Spring Trail. 

When viewed from above, the winding gravel road reminded me of the Burr Trail in Capitol Reef National Park.

On a future visit to Canyonlands, I’d love to travel its hairpin course and descend onto the White Rim bench for a different perspective of the area. 

• BUCK CANYON OVERLOOK

Buck Canyon Overlook is one of the most iconic viewpoints in Canyonlands’ Island in the Sky. From its aerial vantage point, it showcases a V-shaped ravine that extends toward the island like a protruding finger. 

As with many of the park’s attractions, Buck Canyon is easily visible from the parking lot. It is among the park’s most scenic vistas and a fine example of the area’s striking geology. 

A dusting of white traces the edges of the canyon rim. This thick salt deposit stands out from the surrounding stone, giving the landscape an ethereal look.

• GRAND VIEW POINT

Grand View Point lies at the southernmost end of the national park’s scenic drive. From its vantage point, views unfold toward the the Maze, the Needles, and distant La Sal Mountains.

The Grand Viewpoint’s canyon appears like an outstretched handprint, impressed upon the barren red earth. The White Rim Road skirts around its edges. 

A short hike leaves from Grand View Point and follows the ridgeline to a different vantage point of the area. The crowded trail offers spectacular views of the endless expanse of chiseled rock. 

• GREEN RIVER OVERLOOK

The Green River Overlook lies along Upheaval Dome Road, just beyond the fork in the national park’s main road. It is the first viewpoint en-route to the district’s western end. 

The Green River Overlook is one of the only places in which visitors can see the park’s waterways. Below, the transformative work of the river is on full display—creating an endless expanse of canyons. 

It is truly mind-boggling to imagine how a river so small could have sculpted an area so large.

SHORT HIKES IN CANYONLANDS

Unlike the long meandering trails in the Needles District, the hikes in Canyonlands’ Island in the Sky are all relatively short. They allow visitors to enjoy as much or as little of the park as time permits. 

The short hikes in Canyonlands showcase the area’s geological and historical diversity—from natural bridges, to roadside ruins, to birds-eye vantage points. 

• MESA ARCH HIKE

Mesa Arch is one of Canyonlands National Park’s signature vistas. The easy half mile loop trail brings visitors to the spectacular (albeit usually crowded) viewpoint. 

The arch sits right at the edge of a cliff that overlooks Buck Canyon. Picturesque keyhole views of the White Rim and La Sal Mountains appear through the arch’s opening. 

Mesa Arch is particularly epic at sunrise, when the underside of its stone expanse glows a fiery red.

The iconic arch is a must-see Island in the Sky attraction. It is among the most beautiful sandstone bridges in Utah.

• WHITE RIM OVERLOOK HIKE

The White Rim Overlook Hike boasts epic views of Canyonlands’ chiseled landscape. Yet, for some reason, we found that the easy 1.8 mile trail was far less crowded than the park’s other attractions. 

As the trail to White Rim Overlook makes its way toward the cliff’s edge, views unfold in all directions. To the right, panoramas open up to the Grand View Point’s iconic ravine. To the left, Buck Canyon’s V-shaped tentacle acts as its mirror image. 

In addition to providing some of the park’s best views, White Rim Overlook also marks the beginning of Gooseberry Trail. The 4.2 mile Gooseberry Trail drops off the side of the mesa and descends into Buck Canyon. 

• AZTEC BUTTE

Aztec Butte Loop is a unique Island in the Sky hike. The 2 mile trail crosses level grasslands and climbs atop a dome-shaped butte that rises above the mesa.

Most people choose to hike Aztec Butte for both its epic views and its Native American relics. Alcoves along the rim of the butte house Puebloan granaries that were once used for storage.

A trail around the top of Aztec Butte visits two crumbling granaries and provides excellent views of Taylor Canyon. A secondary loop around a shorter butte leads to another well-preserved granary. 

• WHALE ROCK

Whale Rock’s long sandstone formation sits along the road, like a beached whale that washed up along the Island in the Sky’s shores.

The one mile hike up Whale Rock makes for a quick detour en-route to Upheaval Dome. It ascends 250 feet and provides aerial views over the surrounding canyons.

The easy path is suitable for families and novice hikers. Cairns mark the path as it makes its way up the sandstone slickrock. 

• UPHEAVAL DOME

Upheaval Dome lies at the westernmost end of Island in the Sky. A tan dome amidst rust-colored rock, it is the most puzzling geological feature within Canyonlands National Park. Geologists have two competing theories for what created Upheaval Dome. An illustrated panel at the overlook describes both hypotheses.

The salt dome theory suggests that sediment piled onto an underlying salt layer and hardened into sandstone. The heavy rock pushed down on the salt, creating uneven pressure that led to a budge in the salt layer. 

The other school of thought suggests that a meteor crash-landed in the area 60 million years ago. The crater it left behind was unstable. Some parts of it collapsed, while other spaces filled with rock and salt.

A 1.7 mile trail from the parking area showcases two different viewpoints over the peculiar landform. 

LONGER HIKES: ISLAND IN THE SKY

Like Bryce Canyon National Park, the Island in the Sky is best known for its viewpoints and short hikes. The area’s most beloved panoramic points are all easily accessible from the park’s main road. 

However, longer treks still exist within the Island in the Sky. For travelers looking to stretch their legs and descend below the canyon rim, the Syncline Loop and Gooseberry Hike are popular options. 

Additional trails connect the national park’s main road with the White Rim Road. 

THE WHITE RIM ROAD

I’ve heard fantastic things about the White Rim Road in Canyonlands. But with only one day in the park, I was unfortunately not able to undertake the 2-3 day drive.

The White Rim Road loops around the Island in the Sky District. Featuring lonely viewpoints, rutted roads and plentiful spur trails, it is said to be one of the top adventures in Canyonlands. 

DEAD HORSE POINT STATE PARK

Dead Horse Point State Park is not part of Canyonlands’ Island in the Sky District. However, due to its close proximity and similar topography, many choose to incorporate it into their national park itineraries. 

The U-shaped canyon is one of the most beautiful state parks in Utah and an iconic southwest attraction. The park got its name from local legend. According to folklore, cowboys once used the land as a natural corral for wild mustangs. In the inhospitable and rugged terrain, the horses often died of thirst and exposure.

Visitors to the Island in the Sky would be remiss to skip over the awe-inspiring views from Dead Horse Point. 

Try to visit at sunrise, when the sun’s rays paint the canyon walls in fiery shades of red and pink. 

WHERE TO STAY NEAR ISLAND IN THE SKY

Since Canyonlands National Park does not have any lodging within its confines, camping is the only option for travelers looking to stay close by. The Willow Flat Campground has 12 first-come first-served spots and is open year-round. Nearby, Dead Horse Point State Park contains two additional established camping areas. 

Due to the dearth of lodging options near the park, most Canyonlands visitors will likely choose to stay half an hour away, in Moab. 

Centrally located between Arches National Park and the Island in the Sky, Moab is southeast Utah’s premier tourism hub. As a gateway to the region’s attractions, Moab has a long list of fantastic places to stay. These places suit a wide array of travel styles and budgetary constraints—from backpacker hostels to luxury resorts. 

Top rated hotels in Moab include the Castle Valley Inn and Sunflower Hill Inn.

****

Canyonlands often doesn’t receive the credit it deserves. For most travelers to Moab, the vast and disjointed national park plays second fiddle to Arches. 

The national park is so sprawling and dispersed that it would take months to visit entirely. Its sections lie scattered about an area of red rock that is half the size of Rhode Island.

Due to its inaccessibility and long distances, only the most daring explorers make their way into Canyonlands’ interior. 

Luckily, for everyone else, the Island in the Sky provides a perfect vantage point from which to view the formidable landscape. 

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Canyonlands National Park is a rugged wilderness of buttes and mesas that sprawls outward in a tapestry of oranges and reds.

The Canyonlands Needles District is one of four distinct areas within the national park. It is an oft-forgotten wonderland of stone pillars that jut skyward like blunted needles. Among the area’s towering rock garden, it conceals some of the best hiking trails in the American Southwest.

Although it isn’t as heavily trafficked as other areas in Utah’s Mighty 5, the hiker’s paradise boasts bewitching vistas, diverse topography, and unforgettable trails.

VISITING CANYONLANDS: THE NEEDLES

Showcasing 527 square miles of southern Utah’s most dramatic desert scenery, Canyonlands National Park is as varied as it is vast. Sheer canyon walls loom above the Colorado and Green Rivers, their serpentine waters snaking 1000ft below white-tipped cliffs. Above their fold, stone spires erupt from the desert floor.

The sprawling maze of chiseled rock consists of four districts that are separated by hours of driving: the Island in the Sky, the Maze, Horseshoe Canyon, and the Needles.

Each area of the park is striking in its own way.

Yet, when it comes to accessibility, they differ vastly.

The Island in the Sky is by far the most popular destination within Canyonlands National Park. Located near Moab, the district features vehicle-accessible viewpoints and iconic landmarks.

The Maze and Horseshoe Canyon—on the complete opposite spectrum—are remote and seldom visited. They require 4×4 vehicles and loads of time.

The Canyonlands Needles is somewhat of a happy medium. Home to a vast network of trails that weave between 100-plus-foot-tall red-and-white-striped sandstone columns, the district is arguably the park’s best hiking destination. Thanks to its comparative isolation and lack of roadside attractions, it is also relatively off the beaten path.

THE NEEDLES SCENIC DRIVE

While Island in the Sky is chock-full of roadside pullouts and short walking paths, the Canyonlands Needles District reserves its most dramatic scenery for those willing to put in extra effort.

At just over six miles long, the scenic drive in the Needles is quite short in comparison to that of Utah’s other national parks.

Still, for travelers with limited time or desire to hike, it offers the opportunity to look out over the area’s natural arches and pinnacles.

Popular stops along the short paved road include the Wooden Shoe Viewpoint, Pothole Point, and Roadside Ruin.

CANYONLANDS HIKES: THE NEEDLES DISTRICT

Though it has a few roadside viewpoints, the Needles District is not the type of place that can easily be explored from behind a vehicle dashboard. Its awe-inspiring attractions lie scattered about the desert floor. To reach them, one must tackle the area’s complex network of hiking trails and rutted 4 wheel drive roads.

While the Canyonlands Needles contain more miles of hiking trails than we could possibly squeeze into a single day, Dan and I did our best to soak in the area’s most impressive views with limited time.

At the advice of a park ranger, we focused on the Chesler Park Loop. The popular-yet-lightly-trafficked 11 mile loop begins at the Elephant Hill Trailhead. It includes the Chesler Park Trail and Joint Trail.

After making our way through the Joint Trail, Dan and I opted to tack on a detour. We still had some energy and daylight to spare, so we made our way to Druid Arch—one of the most spectacular landmarks in the Needles District.

In total, our hike consisted of approximately 16 miles over rolling elevation. It encompassed three of the best hiking trails in the Canyonlands Needles.

The pieced-together loop ranks among the best hikes I’ve ever completed.

• CHESLER PARK

The Chesler Park Loop provides the best up-close views of Canyonlands’ Needles District. The trail climbs between sandstone fins and mushrooms that looks straight out of a Dr Seuss novel. The 11-mile loop feels mostly flat, but packs in 1,200 feet of rolling ups and downs throughout the day.

Leaving the Elephant Hill trailhead, Chesler Loop winds in and out of canyons and squeezes between towering pillars. It passes pothole-speckled rock slabs and living cryptobiotic soil—climbing to Chesler Park through a dramatic gap in the wall of needles.

At the Needles Overlook, 360 degree panoramas span out in all directions.

Beyond, views open up toward the Maze and reveal the 10,000-foot-tall La Sal Mountains on the horizon.

From Chesler Park, hikers can either turn back toward the Elephant Hill Trailhead, or continue the scenic loop along the Joint Trail. The 5.4 mile out and back trail to Chesler Park is a must-see on its own.

But when combined with the Joint Trail, it is truly among Utah’s top echelon of hikes.

• THE JOINT TRAIL

From the Chesler Park gardens, the sandy hiking path drops into a gap between boulders and seemingly disappears into a narrow ravine.  The two mile section beyond Chesler Park is known as the Joint Trail. Along its most popular quarter-mile stretch, it follows a surreal slot between soaring rocks.

As the trail travels through the rock fracture, its walls seem to stretch higher and higher. The pathway reveals a hallway that is up to 40 ft tall and—in some spots—only three feet wide.

There are a few areas along the Joint Trail that involve climbing over ladders, but the path is otherwise quite level.

• DRUID ARCH TRAIL

The trail to Druid Arch is among the most spectacular hikes in the Needles. It follows the first part of the Chesler Park Loop, then branches off toward Elephant Canyon. As an out-and-back, the path is just shy of a dozen miles. When added to the full Chesler Park and Joint Trail Loop, it clocks in at around 16.

Since we had the time and energy to continue our walk after reaching Chesler Park, Dan and I decided to tack on a visit to the impressive landmark.

The angular arch—with its elongated openings—rivals the crescent-shape spans found in Arches National Park. It is among the most iconic attractions in the Canyonlands Needles.

For much of the hike,  the trail to Druid Arch travels along Elephant Canyon’s sandy wash.

As the trail ascends up the dry river bed, its multi-hued sandstone walls—topped by spires, knobs and fins—grow in stature and become more impressive by the mile.

The final quarter mile of trail requires hikers to scale a ladder and then scramble up a steep boulder-choked ravine. Upon reaching the sandstone bench at the top of the ravine, fantastic views unfold over Druid Arch and Elephant Canyon.

The pieced-together loop took us almost the entire day to complete. Over the course of 16 miles, it brought us face-to-face with the Needles District’s most impressive landscapes.

Visiting Druid Arch added five miles to an already long and strenuous hike, but the reward was unequivocally worth the consequent soreness in our feet.

GETTING TO THE NEEDLES

The Needles District of Canyonlands lies near the town of Monticello, about an hour and a half south of Moab.

The scenic drive passes by an unnamed roadside arch and then splits from Highway 191, entering a vast area of buttes and mesas.

Newspaper Rock is located 15 miles west of the highway, along the Indian Creek Corridor Scenic Byway. It makes for a quick and memorable detour en-route to the Needles.

More than 650 rock art designs—include depictions of animals, human figures, and hunting symbols. It is one of the most impressive collections of petroglyphs in the United States and reminded me of Atlatl Rock in Valley of Fire (albeit far more densely packed with doodles).

Beyond Newspaper Rock, the road leading to the Needles Visitor Center traverses a series of rugged canyons that are defined by their warm-hued walls.

After visiting, I learned that the epic scenery leading up to the Needles is part of the Bears Ears National Monument.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR THE CANYONLANDS NEEDLES

Since Canyonlands National Park does not have any lodging within its confines, camping is the only option for travelers looking to stay in the park. The Needles Campground has 26 designated spaces and costs $20 per night.

For hikers seeking solitude amidst the rock spires, Canyonlands has an extensive backcountry.

Additionally, BLM lands around the park allow for free dispersed camping.

If camping doesn’t sound appealing, there are plenty of places to stay about an hour away. Lodging can be found in Monticello or Moab —with Moab being much larger and Monticello being closer.

In Monticello, the Farmhouse Cabin boasts rave reviews. In Moab, accommodation options range from backpacker hostels to luxury resorts. Top rated hotels in Moab include the Castle Valley Inn and Sunflower Hill Inn.

Keep in mind that Moab is nearly an hour and a half away from the Needles Visitor Center.

WHEN TO VISIT THE CANYONLANDS NEEDLES

As with many destinations in the American Southwest, the Canyonlands Needles District is best to visit in spring and fall. During the shoulder months, temperatures are moderate throughout the day and remain manageable after sundown.

In summer months, Canyonlands can get oppressively hot, with daytime highs soaring in the 100s. In winter, freezing temperatures can make camping uncomfortably cold.

Dan and I hiked the Needles in early December. We found the daytime weather to be perfect for hiking.

*****

When compared to the delicate sandstone hoodoos of Bryce or the dramatic cliffs of Zion, Canyonlands’ rugged scenery receives little attention. And the attention it does receive, mostly revolves around the Island in the Sky.

But Canyonlands is so much more than its (justifiably famous) image of Mesa Arch.

In the Needles District, the dramatic scenery rivals some of the most striking landscapes in Utah’s collection of state and national parks.

The area is vast, aesthetically beautiful, and blissfully crowd-free.

For travelers willing to strap on their hiking boots, the rewards of exploring the Needles are as endless as the scenery.

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