The Klamath Basin covers a large swath of northern California and southern Oregon. A relatively undiscovered area, it is among the best birding destinations in the United States. Or so I’m told. 

I’m not a birder. Nor do I pretend to be. In fact, during our ‘birding’ trip to the Klamath Basin, Dan and I mostly referred to species with vague descriptive names. We pointed out ‘spindly white birds’ and ‘scoop-beaked birds’ and ‘yellow-headed birds.’

In other words, we had no idea what we were talking about.

But still, as we looked through our binoculars and botched the bird species, we couldn’t help but be entranced by the array of wildlife in the Klamath Basin. 

KLAMATH BASIN NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

The Klamath Basin is a remarkable wildlife-viewing destination. During certain times of year, millions of birds pass through the area as they migrate along the Pacific Flyway.

In order to preserve the unique habitat, President Roosevelt established the first National Wildlife Refuge at Lower Klamath Lake in 1908. The refuge encompasses 81,000 acres of marsh and open water along the Oregon/California border. 

Following the establishment of its first wildlife refuge, the Klamath Basin began receiving increased attention for its remarkable avian habitats. 

Now, the area is home to six wildlife refuges that span a large swath of northern California and southern Oregon:  Klamath Marsh, Upper Klamath, Bear Valley, Clear Lake, Lower Klamath, and Tule Lake. 

TULE LAKE NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE 

Dan and I began our Klamath Basin tour with a visit to the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge—established in 1928 by President Calvin Coolidge—covers 39,116 acres in the Tule Lake basin. 

Tule Lake is part of the Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge Complex, and is a crucial part of the Pacific Flyway corridor for migratory birds. It is home to pelicans, grebes, swallows, and a wide variety of geese. 

To best experience the area’s bird life, Dan and I embarked on a short driving tour through the refuge. The Tule Lake Auto Route is a self-guided drive that begins near the refuge’s visitor center, on Hill Road. A 9.6 mile unpaved scenic road, it cuts past marshes and lakes as it showcases some of the area’s best avian habitats.

LOWER KLAMATH NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE 

The Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge lies on the border between California and Oregon. The refuge includes shallow freshwater marshes, open water, grassy uplands, and croplands that are intensively managed to provide foraging and breeding habitat for waterfowl and other animals.

A 10.2 mile driving route—accessible from Highway 126—leads to some of the area’s best bird-viewing areas. Along the way, wildlife observation decks overlook a combination of permanent and seasonal marshes.

During our visit to the Lower Klamath Wildlife Refuge, we found fields of golden grasses that had shriveled under the sun. A few small birds chirped around us, but the numbers didn’t even come close to those at Tule Lake.

Due to the absence of water, we chose to press onward and skip the auto tour of Lower Klamath Lake. 

On my next trip to the area, I plan to visit the refuge in winter—when water levels are higher and flocks of eagles descend into the Klamath Basin. 

UPPER KLAMATH NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

The Upper Klamath Wildlife Refuge lies along the northwestern edge of Klamath Lake in Oregon. It boasts 15,000 acres of freshwater marsh and open water. 

Instead of a driving route, a 9.5 mile canoe trail meanders through the area. Dan and I brought our paddle boards in order to best explore the refuge. 

The Upper Klamath Wildlife Refuge provides an opportunity to paddle through marshlands that are ripe with migrating birds. It is a popular nesting and brood rearing area for grebes, terns, herons, bald eagles, and osprey. 

Aside from spotting a few bald eagles and a handful of Red Winged Blackbirds, however, our journey did not result in many bird sightings. 

Still, it was a lovely place to spend the afternoon. 

We meandered gently through the reed channels and soaked in views of Mount McLaughlin in the background. The marked canoe trail quickly became one of my favorite paddle boarding destinations in Oregon—comparable to some of the best stops along the Cascade Lakes Highway. 

OTHER WILDLIFE REFUGES IN THE KLAMATH BASIN

Our trip to the Klamath Basin brought us to three of the area’s six wildlife refuges. The remaining three—Klamath Marsh, Clear Lake, and the Bear Valley—are likewise critical habitats for migrating birds. 

Klamath Marsh Refuge: The Klamath Marsh consists of 40,000 acres of meadows and wetlands in Oregon. A large natural marsh, it provides important nesting and feeding habitats for waterfowl. 

Clear Lake Refuge: The Clear Lake Refuge in northeastern California contains open water surrounded by over 26,000 acres of upland bunchgrass, low sagebrush, and juniper. Rocky islands in the lake host nesting birds, while the uplands provide habitat for pronghorn antelope, mule deer, and sage grouse. 

Except for limited waterfowl and antelope hunting, the refuge is closed to all public access.

Bear Valley National Wildlife Refuge: The Bear Valley Refuge is a small patch of land in southwestern Oregon’s Klamath County. It was established in 1978 as an important nesting spot for bald eagles. 

To reduce disturbance to the birds, Bear Valley Refuge is mostly closed to the public.

LAVA BEDS NATIONAL MONUMENT

The Lava Beds National Monument on the California/Oregon border is an important stop along the Klamath Birding Trail. The monument lies along the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Route—an all-American road that link’s Oregon’s Crater Lake National Park with California’s Lassen Peak. 

Over the last half-million years, volcanic eruptions on Medicine Lake’s shield volcano have created a rugged landscape dotted with diverse volcanic features. American rock art sites and historic battlefields litter the area.

California’s Lava Beds National Monument is an exciting place to explore. Geologically, the area reminded us of the Newberry Crater National Monument in Central Oregon. 

Its most popular attractions are underground lava tubes that provide ample opportunity for adventuring. 

WHERE TO STAY IN THE KLAMATH BASIN

Klamath Falls is the undeniable hub of the Klamath Basin. A town of over 20,000 residents, it contains an assortment of hotels that range from budget to boutique. 

Dan and I didn’t personally stay the night near Klamath Falls, since we visited as a day trip from Eugene. When we researched the area, however, we found a handful of good places to stay. Highly-rated options included the Running Y Ranch Resort and the Worldmark Running Y. 

For travelers coming from Crater Lake, a few additional options can be found in Chiloquin. 

WATER RIGHTS IN THE KLAMATH BASIN

The Klamath Basin is a largely agricultural region. More than 1,200 family farms rely on water from the area’s federally-operated system of dams, canals, and reservoirs.

Yet farmers are far from the only ones who rely on the area’s diminishing water supply.

Members of the Klamath Tribes need water to protect two species of endangered and culturally-important sucker fish. With record low inflows, water can’t be released without risking extinction for the struggling fish.

Access to water is a continual point of contention between the Klamath Basin’s farmers, conservationists, and Native tribes. The years-long drought in the region has exacerbated tensions surrounding water rights that have long simmered under the surface. 

The Klamath Water Crisis presents no easy answers. Until drought-like conditions subside, resolution will be difficult to find. 

****

The Klamath Basin is a year-round destination for bird-lovers. And each season brings new opportunities for discovery.

In spring and fall, millions of waterfowl populate the basin as they make their way along the Pacific Flyway. In winter, the basin boasts the largest population of eagles in the continental United States. 

With ever-changing wildlife-viewing opportunities, Dan and I know that we’ll return.

And next time, we’ll hopefully be more equipped to decipher what we’re seeing through our binoculars. 

_________________________________________________

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Oregon’s Highway 101 is among the most unforgettable road trip destinations in North America. As it hugs the Pacific coastline, the route showcases soaring cliffs, windswept beaches, and charming seaside towns.

But between Tillamook and Lincoln City, the famous coastal road winds inland, away from the water’s edge. In doing so, it bypasses some of the Oregon Coast’s most awe-inspiring scenery.

The Three Capes Scenic Loop seeks to include the northern coast’s compelling off-highway attractions. A popular side tour from the US 101, it leads visitors to spectacular panoramic viewpoints, a historic lighthouse, dramatic beaches, and rainforest-covered capes.

THREE CAPES SCENIC DRIVE ON THE OREGON COAST

The Three Capes Scenic Drive stretches from Tillamook to Pacific City. As its name suggests, the loop features a popular threesome of capes that boast breathtaking views.

The three capes—Meares, Lookout and Kiwanda—lie along a winding 40-mile alternative to the US 101.

THE TILLAMOOK AGRICULTURAL AREA

Tillamook marks the starting point of the Three Capes Scenic Road. Located inland and a stone’s throw from the beach, the town is the heart of Oregon’s coastal dairylands. Pastoral Tillamook County’s dairies range from locally-touted to world-renowned.

During our tour of the Three Capes Scenic Loop, Dan and I stopped by both the Tillamook and Blue Heron creameries.

• THE TILLAMOOK CHEESE FACTORY

The Tillamook Cheese Factory produces some of the most beloved cheddar cheese in the world. And its creamery, a popular tourist destination, has drawn fans since the mid-1900s.

In 2018, the creamery got a massive facelift that transformed it into a modern and airy museum-like attraction. The main level of the factory contains a gift shop, restaurant, and ice cream bar. Upstairs, placards and windows provide a (literal) glimpse into the cheese-making process.

Be prepared for summer weekend crowds at the ice cream stand. When we visited, the line for ice cream was so long that it made me completely lose my desire for the frozen treat.

Those who do not wish to battle the crowds can find a limited selection of Tillamook ice cream at the nearby Blue Heron Creamery.

• BLUE HERON CREAMERY

Blue Heron Creamery lies adjacent to the larger and more renowned Tillamook Factory. Its cheeses are fantastic and the creamery’s surroundings are well worth a small pit-stop. Its grounds contain a picturesque barn, vintage farm equipment, and a petting zoo.

A selection of wines, gourmet gift baskets and specialty cheeses can be found in the gift shop.

CAPE MEARES STATE SCENIC VIEWPOINT

Located about ten miles west of Tillamook at the north end of the Three Capes Scenic Loop, Cape Meares is the perfect place to explore the Oregon Coast’s spruce forests and dramatic vistas. From April through July, the steep cliffs and offshore rocks are nesting sites for thousands of seabirds—including common murres and Brandt’s cormorants.

The cape’s two top attractions include the Octopus Tree and a miniature lighthouse.

• CAPE MEARES LIGHTHOUSE

Cape Meares Lighthouse—the shortest beacon along the Oregon coast—stands a mere 38 ft high, atop a 200-ft bluff.

The lighthouse may be small, but it features an impressive kerosene-powered lens. First lit in 1890, its Fresnel lens was one of the most powerful and largest of its day. Mariners could spot the distinctive red-and-white flashes from more than 20 miles away.

A paved 0.2-mile path leads from the main parking area to the lighthouse.

• THE OCTOPUS TREE

From the parking area, a short 0.1 mile trail leads to the Octopus Tree—the Oregon Coast’s famous candelabra-shaped Sitka Spruce. The gargantuan tree is believed to be over 250 years old. Six branches grow upwards from the 50-foot wide trunk.

Some attribute the Sitka spruce’s shape to natural conditions such as extreme weather. Others, however, believe Native Americans trained the malleable branches to spread horizontally into a cage-like assortment of thick vertical trunks. Such ceremonial trees are common in the Pacific Northwest. Known as culturally modified trees, they are thought to have once held canoes and been central to ritualistic practices.

CAPE LOOKOUT

Cape Lookout State Park is a panoramic vista that sits high above the pounding Pacific surf. At the state park, there are over eight miles of hiking trails through lush old-growth forest. The park’s headlands jut two miles out into the ocean.  A trail along the southern edge of the cape leads to viewpoints that extend in all directions.

Unfortunately, during our visit to the Three Capes, storm damage precluded us from having access to the lookouts and trails.

Instead, we headed straight toward the state park’s beach and relished a stroll on the idyllic stretch of sand. The state park’s day use area offers nice picnic spots and terrific views.

Access requires an Oregon State Parks pass.

CAPE KIWANDA

Cape Kiwanda, the southernmost of the Three Capes, is among the scenic highlights of the northern Oregon coast. During summer months, it is popular with surfers, kayakers, kite flyers and beer-lovers who come for the conveniently-located Pelican Brewery.

The parking lot near Pelican Brewery charges $10/day for access to the area. While we were initially irked that we couldn’t use our Oregon State Parks Pass or our America the Beautiful Pass, our frustrations immediately subsided upon seeing the area.

Cape Kiwanda is simply one of the most spellbinding places in Oregon. It rivals Samuel H Boardman State Park, the central coast near Cape Perpetua, and Ecola State Park.

To skip it would be a shame.

Cape Kiwanda’s main attraction is a gigantic dune that looms over the northern edge of Pacific City. Visitors can scale the dune for views of the coastline’s windswept beaches and rock formations.

From the top of the sand dune, spectacular views unfold in all directions. Cape Kiwanda’s Haystack Rock—not to be confused with the similarly-named sea stack at Cannon Beach—is the world’s fourth largest ocean monolith, rising 327 ft.

We climbed to the top of the sand dune and then made our way to the overlooks on the cape’s western edge. Following the fence’s boundaries, we photographed the numerous sea arches and rock monoliths that speckle the area.

THE NESKOWIN GHOST FOREST

Just south of the Three Capes Scenic Road, about 100 ancient decaying stumps stand sentinel on the windswept sand. Dubbed the Neskowin Ghost Forest, these crustacean-covered tree trunks are an eerie reminder of the Sitka spruce trees that towered over the area for two millennia.

For centuries, these old stumps were hidden under the beach. Then, in the winter of 1997, severe storms pummeled the coast. In doing so, they eroded the sands and exposed the uncanny forest that was buried beneath.

My family and I visited the Neskowin Ghost Forest as part of a day trip to the northern coast.

Though the forest isn’t part of the established Three Capes Scenic Loop, it would be a shame to miss if you are in the area during low tide.

WHERE TO STAY ON THE THREE CAPES LOOP

The Oregon Coast caters to a mix of accommodation types that range from rustic seaside motels to large resorts. The bulk of accommodations near the Three Capes Scenic Road can be found in Pacific City. Those willing to travel a little bit farther can find additional lodging in Lincoln City (23 miles away).

For travelers looking to camp, Cape Lookout State Park offers a mix of RV, tent and yurt camping. For those looking to relax in comfort, the Inn at Cape Kiwanda and Surf & Sand Inn receive stellar reviews.

****

Oregon’s Highway 101 is, without a doubt, among the most scenic driving routes in the United States. It showcases the best of the Pacific Coast’s state parks, wildlife refuges, and scenic vistas.

Yet, occasionally, the road travels inland, away from Oregon’s magnificent waterfront attractions.

In these instances, detouring from the US 101 reaps the greatest rewards.

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The Columbia River Gorge divides Oregon and Washington in spectacular fashion. A national scenic area and magnet for recreation enthusiasts, it encapsulates much of what makes the Pacific Northwest so special. The gorge is a microcosm of many of the region’s most alluring features—showcasing verdant wonderlands, arid plateaus, and one of the mightiest waterways in the United States. 

The outdoor wonderland attracts hikers, kiteboarders and windsurfers from around the world. Its hiking trails feature fern-lined canyons, gushing waterfalls, wildflower-strewn fields, and grand vistas of snow-capped peaks. 

With its plethora of vistas and diverse topography, the national scenic area certainly puts the ‘gorge‘ in gorgeous (sorry, I had to). 

THE COLUMBIA GORGE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

The mighty Columbia River begins in the mountains of British Columbia and empties out into the ocean near Astoria. Along the way, it grows larger and larger as it collects tributaries. By the time the Columbia reaches the shores of the Oregon Coast, it appears as grand as the ocean itself. I’m always struck by the river’s sheer magnitude. 

From 1980 to 1986, the Columbia Gorge became the second National Scenic Area in the United States. The scenic area consists of 293,000 acres that spread out across six counties in Oregon and Washington. 

The Columbia Gorge is steeped in history.  It has acted as a transportation corridor for thousands of years—first for Native American populations and later for Lewis and Clark as they journeyed west.

Today, it still remains one of the most efficient corridors for travel across the Cascade Mountains. 

THE COLUMBIA GORGE IN OREGON

Though the Columbia River Gorge boasts numerous attractions in both Oregon and Washington, its southern banks contain all but a few of the area’s most noteworthy destinations. The stretch between Troutdale and The Dalles boast’s the gorge’s best waterfalls, its most renowned scenic viewpoints, and its most charming population centers. 

Interstate 84 travels along the southern banks of the Columbia River, connecting Portland with Salt Lake City. It parallels the historic Columbia River Highway and acts as the most convenient transportation route along the gorge. 

THE HISTORIC COLUMBIA RIVER HIGHWAY 

The Historic Columbia River Highway is a 75-mile-long scenic road that connects Troutdale with The Dalles. Built between 1913 and 1922, it was the first planned scenic roadway in the United States. Its design intended to take advantage of the many waterfalls and vistas in the area.

For its scenery and engineering feat, the Historic Columbia Highway has been recognized in numerous ways. It is included in the National Register of Historic Places, designated as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, and considered a “destination unto itself” as an All-American Road. 

Prior to the construction of Interstate 84, the Old Columbia River Highway was the main transportation link between Portland and the desert. 

The Highway was left partially intact after the construction of I-84. Some of its sections, however, remain cut into pieces or partially destroyed. Efforts are currently underway to create vehicle-free paths for cyclists and pedestrians—transforming its abandoned sections into a recreational trail.

THE VISTA HOUSE

The Vista House sits on a rocky promontory,  693 ft above the Columbia River. It is a popular rest stop along the Crown Point State Scenic Corridor. 

The Columbia Gorge Vista House opened in 1918 as a glamorous rest stop and observatory. The structure features marble floors, stained glass windows, an a stunning view. In the words of The Oregonian, it was “the finishing achievement for the greatest highway in America.”

Each year, millions of visitors bypass the Historic Columbia Highway en-route to Multnomah Falls. They zoom down I-84, zipping right below the famous building and entirely skipping a spectacular stretch of road. 

The first few times Dan and I visited the gorge, we did the same—not knowing that the Vista House and Portland Women’s Forum Scenic Viewpoint afford some of the area’s most rewarding pit-stops. 

COLUMBIA GORGE WATERFALLS

Oregon is known for its epic waterfalls. Thundering cascades can be found throughout the western half of the state. They are the crown jewels of places like Silver Falls State Park and the McKenzie River Highway. 

The Columbia Gorge has an unusually high waterfall density. It contains more cascades per square mile than any other place in the country. 

The Oregon side of the river houses a vast majority  of the gorge’s waterfalls (77 to be exact). Some contain paved pathways and are easily accessible from the highway. Others require a bit of a hike. 

• LATOURELL FALLS

Latourell Falls is the closest major waterfall to the city of Portland. While many skip it and head straight to Multnomah, the 249 ft ribbon of water is a Columbia Gorge must-see. 

The cliff behind Latourell Falls is notable for its lime-green lichen and vertical basalt columns. Aesthetically, the vibrant colors and vertical columns add intricacy to the cascade’s surroundings. 

The beautiful 225-foot single drop waterfall is easily accessible from the Historic Columbia River Highway.

From the parking area, a 2.3 mile loop passes by the waterfall and leads to a second 134 ft cascade. 

• BRIDAL VEIL FALLS

Bridal Veil Falls is the second major cascade along the Historic Columbia Highway. Its parking area leads to two short hikes: one showcasing the beautiful waterfall and the other revealing views of the Columbia River.

• MULTNOMAH FALLS

Photogenic Multnomah is Oregon’s most beautiful waterfall and one of the most recognizable cascades in the United States. Dropping 620 spectacular feet, it is the tallest of the Columbia River Gorge’s many waterfalls. It is also close to Portland and just off Interstate-84, making it one of Oregon’s most oft-photographed natural wonders. 

Each year, it attracts more than 2 million sightseers. 

While there is no denying the beauty of Multnomah Falls, the attraction’s easy access and widespread renown means huge tourist throngs are inevitable. 

As soon as you set eyes on the waterfall’s spectacular silver ribbon, however, you’ll understand why Multnomah is the area’s centerpiece and crown jewel. 

• WAHKEENA FALLS

Wahkeena Falls may not be as tall as Latourell and Multnomah, but the twisting waterfall is nonetheless among the gorge’s most striking. 

At the time of our visit, the Wahkeena Falls parking area remained closed off to visitors. However, we were still able to access the waterfall from the Multnomah Falls Parking Area. In order to visit the cascade, we had two options. The first consisted of walking along the Old Columbia Highway for about one mile round-trip. The other required a five mile trek that also included Fairy Falls. 

Due to lack of time, we only did the out-and-back hike.

But the 5-mile trek is at the top of our future gorge to-do list. 

Despite the fact that Wahkeena Falls lies within close proximity of Oregon’s most notable cascade, Dan and I were able to enjoy the thundering water in complete solitude.

It was a refreshing contrast to the congestion at nearby Multnomah. 

• WAHCLELLA FALLS

Two-tiered Wahclella tumbles over moss-clad rocks into a picturesque plunge pool. The waterfall consists of upper and lower segments that have a combined height of 350 ft. The longer upper section is not completely visible, while the thundering lower segment stands 60 ft.

The Wahclella Falls Trailhead is located directly across the highway from the Bonneville Dam. It is the easternmost ribbon of water in a long string of stunning cascades. 

Due to its picturesque nature, Dan and I even chose Wahclella Falls as the site of our engagement photos! 

ONEONTA GORGE (CURRENTLY CLOSED) 

The Oneonta Gorge is a narrow moss-covered canyon located within the larger Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. It is one of the most beautiful spots in Oregon. 

A narrow waterfall lies at the end of the moss-covered emerald canyon. Reaching Lower Oneonta Falls requires wading in an icy river that cuts through the area’s verdant canyon walls.

It is a short hike that packs in a huge reward. 

Unfortunately, the canyon remains closed off to visitors as a result of the 2017 Eagle Creek Fire. Dan and I count ourselves incredibly lucky to have visited the place merely months before flames turned the area into a hazard zone. 

Currently, the Oneonta Gorge does not have a set reopening date. 

HOOD RIVER

Hood River lures both locals and tourists with its craft breweries, quaint downtown, and beautiful setting. Like a mini version of Bend Oregon, the town centers almost entirely around its outdoor offerings. It is a launchpad for adventures in the Mount Hood National Forest, excursions through the Hood River Fruit Loop, and recreation along the Columbia. 

In the 1960s, the Columbia River’s white-capped waters and constant wind put Hood River on the national windsurfing radar. Today, the town is world-renowned as one of the world’s best destinations for kiteboarders and windsurfers. 

A sandy spit juts out into the water and forms a natural dock that attracts swimmers and water sports enthusiasts in droves. At nearly half a mile long, the sand bar and its shallow waters are the perfect place to cool down on a hot sunny day.  

Though Dan and I have never been kiteboarding, we could have spent all day watching the athletes as they glided about the choppy waters. 

It looked like so much fun that we vowed to take kiteboarding lessons on our next visit to the area. 

ROWENA CREST AND TOM MCCALL PRESERVE

Visiting Rowena Crest is among the top things to do along the Columbia River Gorge. 

Located between Hood River and The Dalles, the roadside viewpoint offers some of the  area’s most epic vistas. Many visit Rowena Crest for its iconic views of the Historic Columbia River Highway’s horseshoe bend. Thanks to Instagram, the U-shaped curve in the road is one of the most well-known Columbia Gorge attractions. 

In addition to providing a unique view of the Historic Columbia Highway, Rowena Crest features sweeping panoramas of the vast river, arid cliffs, and wildflower-splashed hillsides.

The Rowena Crest Viewpoint marks the starting point of a spectacular hike through the Tom McCall Preserve. 

The short 3.4 mile trail meanders up a grassy slope that explodes with vibrant wildflowers in the spring. From its summit, the views of Mount Hood and Mount Adams are breathtaking. 

THE COLUMBIA GORGE IN WASHINGTON

Washington’s side of the Columbia River Gorge receives far less attention than its Oregon counterpart. The area’s hikes and viewpoints, however, are likewise spectacular. 

The Washington portion of the Columbia Gorge National Recreation Area extends from Camas to Maryhill. Scenic Highway 14 traces the riverbank and provides access to many of the area’s best hiking areas, wildflower meadows, and scenic viewpoints.

CAPE HORN

Cape Horn overlooks the Columbia River’s sparkling blue waters and cavernous gorge. It is the first major viewpoint along Washington’s Highway 14. 

A 7.5 mile scenic loop descends from the viewpoint to the river’s edge. It passes by lava rocks and basalt towers.

Nesting peregrine falcons reside in the basalt cliffs below Cape Horn.

As a result, the trail is only accessible to tourists between July 16th and January 31st. 

BEACON ROCK 

One of the Columbia Gorge’s most distinguishable features, beacon rock looms over the river. It can be spotted from a number of the area’s scenic viewpoints. 

The 848-foot basalt landmark was once the core of a volcano. When Ice Age floods swept out large chunks of land, the volcano’s inner core was all that remained. Beacon Rock is among the tallest monoliths in North America.

A steep pathway leads to the top of the rock outcrop and culminates in epic views of the river. The three-quarter mile out-and-back trail dates back to 1918. It contains handrails, bridges, and 51 switchbacks.

Though crowded, the 1.5 mile Beacon Rock Trail is among the most memorable Columbia River Gorge hikes. 

DOG MOUNTAIN

Dog Mountain is a legendary destination within the Columbia River National Scenic Area. This Washington gem offers stunning views of the gorge and its verdant hillsides. On clear days, it showcases Mount Hood and Mount St Helens.  

The challenging 6 mile hike ascends 2,900 ft above the gorge. In late spring and early summer, it boasts some of the best wildflower displays in the Pacific Northwest.

Note that, in addition to the existing $5 day use fee, a new permit system is in effect for weekends between March 31 and July 1.

BONNEVILLE DAM

The Bonneville Dam spans the entire length of the Columbia Gorge and is accessible from both Oregon and Washington. It has two visitor centers and offers free tourist admission.

The dam was built and is managed by the United States Army Corps of Engineers. At the time of its construction in the 1930s, it was the largest water impoundment project of its type in the nation. The dam produces 5 billion kilowatts of electricity each year, which is enough to power 80% of the Pacific Northwest.

The largest fish hatchery in Oregon, called the Bonneville Fish Hatchery, is located next to the dam. 

CATHERINE CREEK

Since Dan and I had already hiked Dog Mountain on a previous visit to the Columbia River Gorge, we chose a different wildflower trail on our most recent foray into the area. 

Catherine Creek is well-known as one of the most beautiful hiking destinations along Washington’s side of the gorge. It features a series of trails that wind through forest and along hillsides. Its trails provide beautiful views of Mount Hood and the river. 

And best of all, the area contains only a fraction of the crowds that can be found on Dog Mountain. 

THE MARYHILL STONEHENGE

Dan and I haven’t actually made it as far as the Maryhill Stonehenge, but the monument is no doubt one of the top attractions along the Washington side of the riverbank. 

The memorial is a replica of Stonehenge in England. It was commissioned in the early 20th century by a wealthy entrepreneur, and dedicated on 4 July 1918 as a memorial to victims of World War I.

COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE ACCOMMODATIONS

While many tourists choose to visit the Columbia River Gorge as a day trip from Portland, the area’s plethora of attractions merit at least two days of exploration.

Luckily, there are plenty of wonderful places to stay on both sides of the river. 

On the Washington side, the Skamania Lodge and Spa is a popular choice. It is situated on 176 scenic acres along the River. RubyJune Inn in White Salmon, too, receives great reviews. 

On the Oregon side, Hood River hosts a bulk of the accommodations. The Columbia Cliffs Villas, the Hood River Hotel and the Carson Ridge Luxury Cabins are highly ranked choices. 

BEST TIME TO VISIT THE COLUMBIA GORGE

With waterfalls, wildflowers, and scenic views, the Columbia River Gorge is a fantastic place to visit year-round. In late spring, wildflowers paint the hillsides, while iconic Pacific Northwest Peaks wear a thick cape of snow. It is the most beautiful time to visit the gorge, provided that the sun is shining. 

But while the colors fade a bit in late summer and fall, the warmer months remain a fantastic time to visit the area. 

In winter, most hiking trails and viewpoints remain accessible, while thinning crowds provide an opportunity to enjoy the area’s attractions in relative solitude. 

*****

As the Columbia River makes its way toward the sea, its surrounding scenery unfolds in spectacular fashion. The behemoth river—once a conduit for travel over the Cascades—has now become a destination of its own. The river draws year-round recreation enthusiasts with its varied scenery and unforgettable hikes. 

From arid plateaus to misty waterfalls and from snow-clad mountains to fern-laden canyons, the Columbia River National Recreation Area is nothing short of gorgeous. 

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The Washington Coast is rugged, wild, and often forgotten. Unlike the renowned stretches of Pacific shoreline in Oregon and California, the Washington beaches can feel like a bit of an afterthought. 

Geographical and logistical barriers divide Washington’s coastline into three distinct sections. The northern part lies within Olympic National Park and is largely regarded as the state’s most striking, while the southern portion boasts the state’s largest and most famous beach. 

Washington’s central coast lacks the wow-factors that draw visitors north and south. Characterized by its haphazard resort towns and drivable beachfront, it is perhaps the US’s most overlooked stretch of Pacific coastline. 

THE CENTRAL WASHINGTON COAST

South of the Olympic Peninsula, Washington’s seastack-laden shores give way to wide sweeping beaches that extend infinitely outward.

The central Washington coast—interrupted by a handful of massive bays that provide logistical challenges for ‘road-tripping’—features a patchwork of tourist resorts, state parks, and Native land.

And yet, while the area is often an afterthought among out-of-state tourists, two of Washington’s favorite coastal getaways lie along its sandy stretch of shoreline. These communities—both born out of the desire to bring tourism to the central coastline—are a study in contrasts. 

OCEAN SHORES

Ocean Shores is one of the most well-known seaside towns in Washington. It is equal parts kitschy, brash, touristy, and fun. 

Once cattle country, the area received an unrecognizable makeover in the 1960s. When a developer bought tracts of farmland in hopes of attracting tourism to the region, thousands of lots sold, many sight unseen. Sandy beaches and oceanfront proved to be a powerful allure. 

Soon, developers planned 25km of canals, a six-hole golf course, and a mall shopping area. Three years later, the city opened its gates with fanfare. It hosted celebrity golf tournaments and became a magnet for family vacations and second homes.

By 1969, Ocean Shores was declared the “richest little city” per capita in America.

Today, the Ocean Shores dream seems all but faded in the rear-view mirror. The town remains a sprawling collection of strip malls that hold little cohesive charm.

That hasn’t stopped tourists from frequenting the area, however. As the Seattle area’s closest stretch of Pacific coastline, it remains a favorite destination for those looking to dip their toes in the ocean, drive on the sand, and soak in spectacular sunsets. 

Ocean Shores surely ins’t a version of Malibu that some hoped it would become, but it is a fantastic family-friendly destination nonetheless. 

• GRIFFITHS-PRIDAY STATE PARK

Griffiths-Priday State Park lies north of Ocean Shores, where the Copalis River meets the sea. It is a windswept stretch of beach defined by a solitary rock monolith and undulating dune grasses. 

The area’s beach seems to stretch endlessly, bordered by the Copalis National Wildlife Refuge and Copalis Spit. The serene natural area is a haven for migratory birds.

The shoreline is also renowned for its bounty of razor clams in season. 

• DAMON POINT

Damon Point, a 61-acre day-use park, constitutes the southeastern tip of the Ocean Shores Peninsula. Surrounded by water on three sides, it is one of the best wildlife-viewing places along Washington’s Pacific Coast.

The area consists of a mile-long stretch of land that juts out into the sea. On clear days, the park offers spectacular views of Grays Harbor, the Olympic Mountains, and Mount Rainier. 

Since cars are prohibited from driving along the spit’s sandy banks, Damon Point is a relaxing destination for a leisurely pedestrian stroll. 

SEABROOK: A TOWN OF CREEPY PERFECTION

Washington is full of cute towns. But surprisingly—up until 2004—none of those cute towns could be found along the Pacific Ocean.

So Casey Roloff decided to change things up a bit. 

He bought a tract of land and developed it into an intentional resort community akin to those found along Florida’s coast. He named it Seabrook. 

Seabrook is less than two decades old. Like Ocean Shores, the town began as a developer’s dream and seemingly sprung up overnight.

Dan and I found ourselves in Seabrook, thanks to a friend’s recommendation. We had never heard of the town before, nor did we know anything about its recency on the Washington map.

Based on my knowledge of Pacific Nortwest coastal towns, I suspected that Seabrook might be similar to Cannon Beach or Depoe Bay. 

But mere seconds after we began exploring Seabrook’s well-laid-out streets on foot, Dan and I turned to each other. I knew what Dan was thinking before he opened his mouth. And when he spoke, he may as well have articulated the same thoughts that were swirling through my own mind. “This place is weird,” he said. “It’s like a movie set.” 

I nodded. It was giving me the heebie-jeebies. 

Never had I seen a place so flawless. We felt as though we had been sucked into some sort of cult world that would soon crumble around us.

Cheerful children rode their bicycles down quaint cottage-lined streets. Not even a nail seemed out of place.  It looked too much like a movie set to be a real town. Were we witnessing scenes from Pleasantville? The Stepford Wives? The Truman Show? 

It was difficult to tell. 

While Seabrook took us aback with its meticulously-planned streets, we simultaneously realized that there is a lot to love about the resort town. Roloff designed the community very intentionally—adding barbecue pits, parks, and gathering places every few blocks. The town is a textbook example of New Urbanist architecture. It has a lot in common with other intentional communities, like the Issaquah Highlands or Northwest Crossing in Bend. 

It didn’t take long before the creepiness faded and we began to fall for Seabrook’s charm. 

And we agreed that if we were to return to the central Washington coast, we wouldn’t hesitate to visit Seabrook again. 

WHERE TO STAY ALONG WASHINGTON’S CENTRAL COAST

If you’re traveling to Washington’s central coast, you’ll likely choose to stay in Ocean Shores or Seabrook. Top places to stay in Ocean Shores include the Ocean Shores Resort and the Collins Inn Cottages.

In Seabrook, the accommodation options are almost exclusively vacation homes. Most of these vacation homes are bookable online, on the town’s official website. 

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The central coast near Ocean Shores is often pegged as one of Washington’s best family-friendly destinations. I can easily see why. 

In summer months, the expansive waterfront is a playground for kite-flyers and beachcombers. During winter months, the area overflows with vehicles zooming up and down the vast tract of sand. It is a fantastic area for wildlife-spotting, beach-bumming, and soaking in stellar sunsets. 

Ocean Shores and Seabrook both give tourists access to the beach—transforming the overlooked coastline into a popular local retreat.

And while Washington’s central coast isn’t the most dramatic portion of the Pacific, its access to uninterrupted shoreline is nonetheless pretty special. 

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Washington may be best known for its eye-popping scenery, but the state’s beauty isn’t only relegated to nature.

Throughout Washington, quaint population centers support fishing, agriculture and tourism industries. They are home to historic downtowns, tasty eateries, and vibrant festivals. These beautiful small towns lie sprinkled along seasides and tucked amidst mountains.

For lovers of art and culture, they offer gallery-hopping and window-shopping opportunities.

And for recreation enthusiasts, they act as fantastic launchpads for adventures into the state’s great outdoors.

QUAINT TOWNS IN WASHINGTON STATE

The United States isn’t exactly known for its historic cities. Especially on the West Coast, many communities consist of strip malls and characterless building clusters.

There are, of course, some noteworthy exceptions.

In the years I’ve spent living in the Pacific Northwest, I’ve had the opportunity to visit many of the most highly-touted small towns in Washington.

Some are quaint historic communities with well-preserved downtowns. Others have gotten makeovers to increase their tourist appeal.

Yet, whether they be manufactured or authentic, the cutest towns in Washington add character to the state’s rural areas.

And—though they are often positioned in places with abundant nearby beauty—their historic city centers deserve more than just a passing glance.

1. FRIDAY HARBOR

Friday Harbor is the only community of significant size in Washington’s San Juan Islands. A low-key village of about 2,000 permanent residents, it contains a walkable urban core full of eateries, art galleries, and boutiques.

Dan and I visited Friday Harbor as part of a day trip to San Juan Island. The seaside town contains all the ingredients of a touristy waterside getaway. It is aesthetically pretty, replete with mom-and-pop shops, and a launch-pad for whale-watching excursions in the northern Puget Sound. Many consider Friday Harbor to be among Washington’s most beautiful towns.

As the hub of the San Juan Islands, Friday Harbor boasts plenty of attractions for a city its size. Cultural amenities include the Whale Museum, the San Juan Islands Museum of Art, the San Juan Community Theatre, and the San Juan Historical Museum.

2. ROCHE HARBOR

San Juan Island’s Roche Harbor is smaller than Friday Harbor and every bit as picturesque. Anchored by the historic Haro Hotel, it boasts delicate white architecture that is more than 100 years old.

The town’s landmark buildings date back to 1886, when the village served as a company town for John McMillin’s lime works. Preserved remnants of the lime kilns are still visible near the village’s parking area.

During our trip to San Juan Island, Dan and I explored the town and its surroundings on foot. After touring the wharf and stopping by a tiny white chapel built in 1892, we found ourselves meandering through the grounds of the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park.

The sculpture park—along with the adjacent Whimsy Forest—is a must-see Roche Harbor attraction. The 9-acre garden features more than 100 art installations by Pacific Northwest sculptors.

Though the garden does not have a formal entrance fee, $5 donations are encouraged.

3. LANGLEY

Little Langley lies at the southern end of Whidbey Island. Though it is located only one hour north of Seattle as the crow flies, the small community may as well be a million miles away. Langley’s tiny waterfront downtown feels straight out of a tourist brochure.

Like Friday Harbor, it boasts independent eateries, local boutiques, and a handful of art galleries. The town’s unusual number of galleries reflects the island’s artistic inclination.

Langley sits on the water, with direct access to the sound. It is the perfect base for exploring southern Whidbey Island.

4. COUPEVILLE

Like Langley, the small village of Coupeville offers visitors an opportunity to explore one of Whidbey Island’s adorable population centers.

Coupeville is a waterside town that sits along the shores of Penn Cove.  It boasts a picturesque red wharf that juts out into the sound. Many of Coupeville’s buildings are listed in the National Historic Register.

As Washington State’s second-oldest community, much of downtown Coupeville’s architecture reflects the era in which it was founded.

Today, its storefronts house galleries, wine tasting rooms, and bookstores.

5. LA CONNER

La Conner is a beautiful historic waterfront village located on the Swinomish Channel.

The small community  is one of the top places to visit in the Skagit Valley. Nestled between the Skagit River Delta and the Salish Sea, La Conner is both a fishing village and an artists’ colony. The community is known for its architecture and its adorable waterfront shops.

With views of the water and a historic crescent-shaped bridge, the beautifully-positioned town is a must-see when visiting Skagit County.

Every spring, nearby farms burst to life with colorful carpets of blooming tulips—making La Conner the optimal base for an April weekend trip.

6. POULSBO

Charming Poulsbo lies at the northern end of Liberty Bay, on the Kitsap Peninsula. Aptly nicknamed ‘Little Norway,’ Poulsbo’s architecture reflects its Scandinavian heritage.

Poulsbo was founded by Jorgen Eliason, a Norwegian immigrant. With its nearby mountains and abundant water, the landscape reminded early settlers of their homelands in Scandinavia.

Today Poulsbo’s Scandinavian-style storefronts attract tourists with their quaint European charm.

But unlike Leavenworth, the town’s kinship with Europe is about more than just tourism.

Until World War II, many of Poulsbo’s residents retained Norwegian as their primary language. But when the military constructed 300 residential units for workers at Bremerton’s naval shipyard, the town ballooned in size. The population of Poulsbo almost tripled in the three years following the war.

As a result of the area’s diversification, English replaced Norwegian as the primary language.

Still, the town’s kinship with Norway has not faded.

7. PORT TOWNSEND

The thriving community of Port Townsend is located on the northeast end of the Olympic Peninsula, en-route to Olympic National Park. With its charming architecture and bustling urban core, it is a place that feels much grander than its 10,000-strong population.

The picturesque town is a Victorian seaport steeped in history. In addition to its aesthetic beauty, it boasts a flourishing art scene and hosts an abundance of nearby adventure opportunities.

In recent years, retirees and artists have flocked to Port Townshend in droves. Drawn by sunnier weather and a more laid-back lifestyle, they have breathed renewed vitality into the area.

During our visit to Port Townshend, Dan and I strolled around downtown and admired uptown’s colorful 100+ year-old Victorian mansions.

8. LEAVENWORTH

Leavenworth is a little slice of southern Germany that lies at the eastern edge of the Cascade Mountains. A logging-town-turned-Bavarian village, it has become Washington’s premier mountain getaway destination.

Leavenworth may be half a world away from Munich, but the town’s European aesthetic is certainly convincing. Throughout downtown, shops sell German souvenirs, lagers flow freely, and mustard-dipped pretzels are standard fare.

Leavenworth’s transformation began in the mid 1900s, following a period of steep economic decline.

After decades of job loss and hardship, Leavenworth’s citizens decided to boost tourism by giving their town a Bavarian-style makeover. The town reinvented itself by embracing every German cliche imaginable.

Its makeover was a resounding success.

Today, Leavenworth is a place where tourists can expect to find beerhalls and bratwursts and lederhosen-clad waitstaff.

Visiting Leavenworth in winter is particularly memorable. Every year between Thanksgiving and Valentine’s Day, the town transforms into a bustling winter wonderland.

9. WINTHROP

Tiny Winthrop is a major stop along Washington’s Cascade Loop. Situated near the eastern edge of North Cascades National Park in the Methow Valley, its location is unbeatable. With its clapboard architecture and old-timey feel, Winthrop offers a charming window to the wild west.

Winthrop is one of the cutest small towns in Washington, thanks to an aesthetic transformation in the 1970s.

In a bid to boost tourism, the community took a page out of Leavenworth’s playbook.

But instead of turning to Europe, the town decided to rewind the clocks to mid-1800s America. Western-themed storefronts and restaurants adorn Winthrop’s main street, as though part of a movie set.

Winthrop’s wild west theme may not be authentic, but it sure is compelling.

10. STEHEKIN

Stehekin is Washington’s most remote inhabited community. The small town sits nestled at the northern end of Lake Chelan, near the entrance to North Cascades National Park.

Though it has little in the way of architecture, Stehekin is one of Washington’s most beautiful small towns. Its picturesque setting and sheer isolation render it entirely unique.

It wouldn’t be a stretch to say that Stehekin—a small town of 75 residents—is one of my favorite places to visit in Washington.

Stehekin belies the tourist frenzy that descends on the shores of southern Lake Chelan every summer. With its difficult-to-reach-location, the town is everything Chelan is not—quiet, tranquil, remote, and off the beaten path.

The little village oozes calm.

After all, roads do not connect the community’s residents with the outside world. The only way to reach Stehekin is by boat or private plane.

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Washington’s mountains receive all the attention. And rightly so. They’re pretty epic.

But you don’t have to be an outdoor-lover to appreciate the state’s tourist attractions.

Throughout Washington, quaint small towns boast art galleries, independent shops, nostalgic architecture, and idyllic settings.

These  small communities—some wildly popular, others understated—have done their best to jostle their way onto tourist itineraries in a state that is bursting at the seams with places to visit.

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San Juan Island is one of Washington State’s favorite summer destinations. Situated within eyeshot of Canada in the northern Puget Sound, the fleck of emerald land defies the hustle and bustle of nearby Seattle. 

On San Juan Island, the pace of daily life slows to a peaceful amble. It is the type of destination that lures relaxation-seekers and nature-lovers. The type of place where  lapping waves and cooing seabirds act as a soundtrack to the scenery. 

Among its eclectic mix of things to do, the island boasts natural, artistic and historical attractions. On our San Juan Islands day trip, Dan and I discovered a place rich with historic lighthouses, abundant wildlife, meandering hiking trails, and one of the most bizarre and oft-forgotten war histories in the United States.

SAN JUAN ISLAND ACTIVITIES AND ATTRACTIONS

San Juan is the most populous island in the eponymous San Juan Islands National Monument. The three other inhabited islands include bike-friendly Lopez,  tiny Shaw, and beloved Orcas.

With the exception of Shaw Island, the San Juans have become some of Washington State’s most popular tourist destinations.

There are plenty of educational and quirky things to do on San Juan Island. Like its neighbors in the northern Puget Sound, San Juan is most known for its laidback vibe and nearby nature. Its abundant attractions include bucolic countryside, a photogenic shoreline, and art-filled public spaces.

1. EXPLORE FRIDAY HARBOR

Friday Harbor is the only town of significant size in Washington’s San Juan Islands. A low-key village of about 2,000 permanent residents, it is full of eateries, art galleries, and boutiques. Many consider Friday Harbor to be among Washington’s prettiest towns. 

Dan and I spent about an hour walking around Friday Harbor during our San Juan day trip. The seaside town contains a refreshing lack of chain stores and fast food restaurants. Friday Harbor’s extensive collection of mom-and-pop shops give it an intimate community-focused appeal. 

We especially enjoyed peeking into art galleries and getting pastries at Cafe Demeter.

Friday Harbor’s cultural amenities include the Whale Museum, the San Juan Islands Museum of Art, the San Juan Community Theatre, and the San Juan Historical Museum. 

Beyond the outskirts of town, idyllic landscapes unfold—showcasing wineries, cow-speckled pastures, and windswept shores. 

2. VISIT SAN JUAN ISLAND’S ENGLISH CAMP 

Between 1846 and 1859, the United States and England agreed to a joint occupation of San Juan Island while they settled a territorial dispute. The two nations established camp—one on each side of the island—and lived peacefully until the killing of a pig brought them to the brink of war. 

The ‘Pig War’ remains one of the most obscure battles in US history. And at English Camp, it is possible to walk through remnants of the peculiar battleground. 

From the parking area, a short path leads to the waterfront encampment. The area includes a few buildings and a small formal garden.

Dan and I wandered down to the grassy lawn, peaked into the shuttered buildings, and soaked in the area’s waterside views. 

Though it is administered by the National Parks Service, there is no fee associated with visiting English Camp. 

3. VISIT ROCHE HARBOR

Roche Harbor, San Juan Island’s second settlement, is smaller than Friday Harbor and every bit as picturesque. Anchored by the historic Haro Hotel, its delicate white architecture merits more than just a passing glance. 

The town’s landmark hotel dates back to 1886, when the village served as a company town for John McMillin’s lime works. Remnants of the lime kilns are still visible near the village’s parking area. 

Dan and I ate lunch at the Lime Kiln Cafe, before exploring the town and its surroundings on foot. After stopping by a tiny white chapel built in 1892, we found ourselves meandering through the grounds of the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park.

The sculpture park, along with the adjacent Whimsy Forest, is a must-see Roche Harbor attraction. The 9-acre garden features more than 100 installations by Pacific Northwest artists. 

Though the garden does not have a formal entrance fee, $5 donations are highly encouraged. 

4. VISIT LIME KILN STATE PARK

Even when there are no whales, the small state park is a must-see destination when visiting San Juan Island. Access to the area requires a $10 fee or  Washington State Parks Discover Pass. 

5.  VISIT AMERICAN CAMP

American Camp is a defining landmark that makes up part of the San Juan Islands National Historic Site. It  lies on the island’s southernmost tip, about 15 minutes from Friday Harbor. 

The surrounding landscape is reminiscent to Ebey’s Landing on Whidbey Island. A series of interpretive trails leads through the area’s windswept landscapes. Though it is not as well-preserved as English Camp, the area contains remnants of an old fort and the officers’ quarters.

Many of the island’s best hiking trails crisscross the grassy fields and shorelines of American Camp. Noteworthy pathways lead up 285-foot Mount Finlayson and down to Jakle’s Lagoon.

In addition to boasting some of the best scenery and trails on the island, American Camp is a magnet for birdwatchers. The area is home to groups of nesting eagles and more than 200 species of migratory birds. 

6. SEARCH FOR RED FOXES

While driving to South Beach, Dan and I noticed something rustling in the grass. It appeared to be a fox, but we couldn’t be 100% sure. After all, foxes can be elusive and difficult to spot in the wild. 

So with our eyes peeled and camera ready, we tried to find a better vantage point, to no avail. 

But half an hour later, as we set out for the Jackle’s Lagoon trailhead, we encountered a black fox in the parking area. 

It seemed so unbothered by our presence that we began to wonder if these animals were more common than we’d imagined. When we consulted Google, we learned that foxes were introduced to the San Juan Islands to help control European rabbits (another invasive species).

While foxes can be spotted in a wide variety of the island’s habitats, they are most often spotted amongst American Camp’s windswept grasses. 

Although the local foxes come in various shades of orange and black, they are all part of the same species of red fox. 

WHERE TO STAY ON SAN JUAN ISLAND

San Juan Island boasts a diverse array of places to stay. The island’s accommodation options range from camping, to resorts, to boutique hotels.

The island has two campgrounds: one public and one private.  The public site at San Juan County Park has a collection of first-come first-served spots that are allocated to bikers and kayakers. There is also a private campground at Lakedale Resort.

For travelers wishing to stay close to the amenities in Friday Harbor, the Discovery Inn (budget), the Trumpeter Inn (mid-range), and the Web Suites (luxury) all boast fantastic reviews. 

In Roche Harbor, the historic Hotel de Haro offers visitors a chance to stay in a property that dates back to the late 1800s. 

Lodging on San Juan Island tends to fill up quickly—often more than a year in advance. If you’re traveling to the area in summer, reservations are almost always necessary. 

GETTING TO SAN JUAN ISLAND

A passenger ferry links Washington’s Skagit Valley with San Juan Island. The ferry ride is a highlight in itself that boasts views of the shimmering cobalt sound and its dazzling emerald islands. On clear days, the snowcapped peaks of Mount Baker and the Olympic Mountains loom above the horizon.  

While buying ferry tickets weeks in advance is highly recommended during peak season, Dan and I had no trouble snagging a last-minute spot in winter. 

The ferry from Anacortes to San Juan takes about an hour and a half, depending on stops. Be forewarned, however, that in the San Juans, ‘island time’ isn’t just an expression. After my first trip to Orcas, I soon learned to disregard Google Maps estimates and succumb to the unpredictable ferry schedule.

As an alternative to the ferry, Kenmore Air links Seattle with Friday Harbor. The company offers tours, charter flights, and scheduled flights to San Juan Island. 

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San Juan Island is equal parts beautiful and eccentric. The emerald fleck of land—surrounded by a glistening azure sea—feels worlds away from the frenzy of mainland America. It is a place where artists set up shop, where local establishments outnumber large chains, and where Seattle’s urban chaos feels like a distant memory. 

Though we primarily visited San Juan Island in search of tranquility, Dan and I  found plenty of exciting things to do in the area.

Some attractions were part of our original itinerary.

Others—including whimsical art, bushy-tailed foxes, and relics from a bizarre and oft-forgotten war—came as unexpected surprises that made our stay all the more memorable. 

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Washington’s Cascade Loop paints a dramatic portrait of the Pacific Northwest’s raw and wild scenery. The area’s roadside attractions feature granite mountain peaks that reach toward the sky, quaint towns nestled among greenery, and emerald islands sprinkled across cobalt waters.

While many stops along the Cascade Loop are must-sees on their own, together they form an unforgettable road trip itinerary.

Along its course, the road trip reveals a tapestry of lakes, rivers, forests, and mountains. With twisting scenic byways and opportunities for jaunts into untamed wilderness, the 440 mile loop is a testament to the varied landscapes of America’s Upper Left.

CASCADE LOOP: THE ULTIMATE WASHINGTON ROAD TRIP

The Cascade Loop road trip encapsulates the best of Washington’s scenery. Though it only includes one of the state’s three national parks, the 440 mile route is simply breathtaking.

The Cascade Loop does not have definitive start and end locations. While this post chronicles the drive in counterclockwise fashion from Everett, the route can be enjoyed in either direction, from a number of destinations along its course.

As a bare minimum, driving the Cascade Loop requires two full days. Four to five would be ideal—especially if you’d like to stray from the main road and explore some of the area’s scenic hiking trails.

INDEX WASHINGTON

Index is one of Washington’s top hiking destinations . The small town of 200 boasts stunning trails and granite precipices. Its soaring 500 ft cliffs—known as the Index Town Walls—are among the Pacific Northwest’s top outdoor rock gyms.

I have a complex relationship with Index. On the one hand, the area’s scenery offers a paradisiacal mountain escape close to Seattle.

On the other hand, I’ve rarely visited the area without getting frustrated by its notorious traffic jams.

During summer months, the trails around Index fill with day-trippers who are eager to escape city life. Crowds swarm the parking lots, clog the trails, and contribute to gridlock on Highway 2.

That being said, if you’re able to avoid traveling to Index on a weekend, the area truly conceals a lot of gems. Chief among them are Wallace Falls State Park and Lake Serene.

Wallace Falls State Park boasts one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Washington State. It lies near the tiny town of Gold Bar, along Highway 2.

Just down the road from Wallace Falls, Lake Serene is another popular day trip destination. The Lake Serene Trail is an 8.2 mile route that leads past Bridal Veil Falls to a glacial alpine lake. The sapphire lake lies sheltered beneath the 3,000-foot crags of Mount Index.

Despite the large number of people hiking to Lake Serene every day, the glistening body of water still lives up to its name.

Other worthwhile hikes in the area include the Heybrook Lookout, the Monte Cristo Trail, and Bridal Veil Falls Trail.

STEVENS PASS GREENWAY

As Highway 2 digs deeper into the heart of Washington, its roadside mountains become steeper and more impressive. The road winds around craggy peaks, past emerald forests, and alongside rushing rivers.

Stevens Pass Ski Area lies east of Skykomish, between Index and Leavenworth. It is one of the top ski resorts in Washington and a popular winter weekend destination.

Stevens Pass gives skiers and snowboarders access to 1,800 vertical feet across 1,125 acres of terrain. It boasts ten chairlifts and is home to 37 major runs. It is one of the featured resorts on the Epic Pass and among the top skiing destinations in the Pacific Northwest.

I’ve always found Stevens Pass to be a good alternative to the jam-packed slopes at Snoqualmie.

LEAVENWORTH

Leavenworth is a little slice of southern Germany that lies in the heart of the Pacific Northwest. Located half an hour east of Stevens Pass, the logging-town-turned-Bavarian village is a delightful mountain getaway.

Leavenworth may be 5,000 miles away from Munich, but the town’s Bavarian aesthetic is certainly convincing. Throughout downtown, shops sell German trinkets, lagers flow freely, and mustard-dipped pretzels are standard fare.

Leavenworth’s transformation began in the mid 1900s. When the nearby railroad re-routed its tracks and moved elsewhere, the thriving mountain community faced a steep economic decline.

After decades of job loss and hardship, Leavenworth’s citizens decided to give their town a Bavarian-style makeover. The town reinvented itself and embraced every German cliche imaginable. It became a place where tourists could come to expect beerhalls and bratwursts and some of the best Christmas markets in America.

Visiting Leavenworth in winter is particularly memorable. Every year between Thanksgiving and Valentine’s Day, the town twinkles under the glow of lights and transforms into a winter wonderland.

THE WENATCHEE VALLEY

Wenatchee’s identity revolves almost entirely around apple-growing. Known lovingly as the Apple Capital of the World, the livable community of 30,000 is almost entirely surrounded by orchards.

Wenatchee’s position is eye-catching, even if its strip mall suburbs aren’t. The town itself isn’t exactly teeming with things to do, but there are plenty of outdoor adventures nearby. If it were to add a few more breweries and an REI, Wenatchee might even become Washington’s answer to Bend.

Though Wenatchee itself isn’t a highlight of the Cascade Loop, its surrounding orchards are worth a detour. With extra time in the area, consider visiting the Peshastin Pinnacles, stopping by a cider house, or exploring the scenic bikeway that links Wenatchee with Leavenworth.

LAKE CHELAN

Lake Chelan lies at the easternmost end of the Cascade Loop. The sapphire body of water snakes through the hills of Central Washington. It is a scenic wonder and a magnet for anyone with a penchant for wine and water sports.

At its southern tip, Lake Chelan boasts cloudless skies, a bustling resort town, and vineyard-clad hillsides. On summer weekends, it feels as though the entire state of Washington descends on its sun-kissed beaches.

Washington’s largest lake features more than 30 wineries along its shores. Wine grapes thrive along the banks of Lake Chelan, thanks to the area’s rich soil and sunny climate.

Lake Chelan is an ideal place to stay along the Cascade Loop. It is home to a plethora of fantastic food and lodging options.

And if you budget an extra day for your Cascade Loop itinerary, it offers the opportunity to take a day trip to Stehekin—one of my favorite places in the state of Washington.

STEHEKIN (DAY TRIP)

While most travelers stick to Chelan’s sun-drenched southern shores, I’m personally drawn to the lake’s northern reaches. For travelers looking to get off the beaten path, exploring the lake’s mountain-ringed north shore is a definite must-do.

Stehekin, a  village of 75 residents, lies nestled amongst towering mountains at the northern end of the lake. It is only accessible by boat or float plane.

The tiny town of Stehekin is one of the Pacific Northwest’s top undiscovered gems. It boasts a delicious pastry shop, a one-room schoolhouse, a 312 ft waterfall, and stunning views over Washington’s most spectacular lake.

Ferries between Chelan and Stehekin run daily during summer months and take four hours each way.

THE METHOW VALLEY

The rugged Methow Valley is one of Washington’s premier up-and-coming adventure destinations.

Admittedly, many of the area’s attractions remain on my future to-do list.

For now, my Methow Valley experience is limited to Winthrop—the area’s charming window to the wild west.

Winthrop is one of the cutest small towns in Washington, thanks to an aesthetic transformation in the 1970s.

In a bid to boost tourism, the community took a page out of Leavenworth’s playbook. Western-themed storefronts and restaurants adorn its main street, as though part of a movie set. I half expected to see the Lone Ranger saunter down Main Street during my visit.

Winthrop’s wild west theme may not be authentic, but it sure is compelling.

NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK: JEWEL OF THE CASCADE LOOP

Highway 20 is an undeniable highlight of the Cascade Loop. The scenic route slices through the heart of North Cascades National Park. It showcases some of the most incredible vistas in Washington and acts as the springboard for ventures into the surrounding wilderness.

North Cascades National Park is rugged and wild. Its 1,000 square mile expanse contains mountains, lakes, glaciers and abundant wildlife.

While North Cascades is not the type of place that can be adequately appreciated from behind a dashboard, driving through the park makes for an excellent road trip. From the highway, you can enjoy the blue-green waters of Diablo Lake, and admire the towering peaks of the park’s eastern section.

There is no fee associated with driving through the national park. However, many adjacent lands require a Northwest Forest or America the Beautiful pass for trailhead access.

SKAGIT VALLEY

Famous for its springtime tulip fields, the Skagit Valley is a fertile patch of barn-speckled farmland. Washington’s Skagit County stretches from the Salish Sea to the towering North Cascades. It encompasses quaint waterside towns, winding scenic roads, farm-speckled fields, and tucked-away mountain communities.

Every spring, the area’s fields erupt in a symphony of purple, pink, and yellow.

The Skagit is also a fantastic place for bird-viewing.

In winter, eagles dot the treetops and swoop into the valley in search of food.

WHIDBEY ISLAND

Whidbey Island is an idyllic emerald escape. The spindly isle features evergreen forests, cozy waterside towns, and rocky beaches. It is the type of place where artists set up shop and where the bustle of city life feels worlds away.

Measuring 57 miles long and 10 miles wide, Whidbey is the largest island in Western Washington’s Puget Sound. Its wealth of tourist attractions and proximity to Seattle make it a popular day trip destination.

From the state parks of Ebey’s Landing and Deception Pass, to the coastal communities of Langley and Coupeville, the island is a destination that is as scenic as it is serene.

WHEN TO TRAVEL THE CASCADE LOOP

The complete Cascade Loop is only accessible between June and October.

In summer and early fall, clear skies and optimal road conditions combine to create an unforgettable road trip.

Summer and fall are the best times of year to enjoy the North Cascades, Lake Chelan, and Whidbey Island.

Yet while much of the Cascade Loop remains off-limits during winter and spring, certain destinations along its course are at their best during the off-season.

Highway 2 contains a plethora of winter-suitable activities. It boasts ski resorts, sno-parks, and cozy cabin getaways. Between December and February, Leavenworth becomes one of the top places to visit in Washington. Its Christmas lights and wintry charm are nothing if not enchanting.

Winter is also the best time to view nesting eagles along the Skagit River.

Come spring, much of the Cascade Loop remains closed.

But intermittent sunny days make for memorable escapes to Whidbey Island and the Skagit Valley.

****

The Cascade Loop is one of Washington’s top road trip destinations. Though it doesn’t include Mount Rainier, the Olympic Peninsula, or Mount Saint Helens, the scenic drive nonetheless brings visitors to some of the state’s most jaw-dropping destinations.

As Washington’s ultimate road trip, the Cascade Loop features mountain and ocean and everything in between. From iconic glaciated peaks to glistening lakes, to pancake-flat flower gardens, the 440 mile loop is a testament to the region’s diversity and scenic appeal.

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Every year during springtime, Seattleites flock to the Skagit valley in order to capture Instagram-worthy selfies against a backdrop of tulip fields.

The rows of red and purple and pink are a spectacular sight to behold. And it is no wonder that people will withstand clogged streets and traffic jams in order to catch a glimpse of their beauty.

Yet, once the flowers shed their petals, the verdant valley reverts to being an afterthought. Aside from its annual springtime tulip bloom, Skagit County is mostly regarded as drive-through country. It is a place that people traverse en-route to Canada, or the North Cascades, or Whidbey Island.

But linger for a while, and you may understand why I believe the fertile lands along the Skagit River receive far less credit than they deserve.

THINGS TO DO IN SKAGIT COUNTY, WASHINGTON

Washington’s Skagit County stretches from the shores of the Salish Sea to the towering peaks of North Cascades National Park. It encompasses quaint waterside towns, winding scenic roads, farm-speckled fields, and tucked-away mountain communities.

The area’s proximity to Seattle makes it a fantastic day trip destination.

Over the years, Dan and I have visited the Skagit River Valley in many different capacities. On some occasions, it has been a drive-by destination en-route to Orcas Island or the Mount Baker Scenic Byway. At other times, it is the valley itself that has drawn us in with its abundant wildlife and hidden gems.

VISIT THE SKAGIT VALLEY TULIP FIELDS

The Skagit River Tulip Festival is one of the most popular springtime day trips from Seattle. With Mount Baker and a Dutch-inspired windmill standing in the background, opportunities for photography abound.

TOUR THE AREA’S OLD BARNS

The Skagit Valley is one of the Pacific Northwest‘s premier agricultural regions. Over 90 different crops are grown in the area. Aside from flowers, its bounty includes berries, potatoes, and Jonagold apples.

Skagit County’s agricultural heritage is reflected in the longstanding barns that lie sprinkled about its verdant fields. The barns litter the countryside—many featuring ghostly decrepit facades that have fallen into total disrepair.

The Skagit County Historical Museum put together a heritage barn tour. A self-guided driving route, it winds through the valley and includes a total of 55 registered historic buildings.

While Dan and I have not completed the entire barn tour, we’ve come across some of the structures while traveling en-route to other destinations. The barns add a splash of visual history to the region’s pastoral landscape.

SEARCH FOR BALD EAGLES

The upper Skagit River region is quiet during winter months. With Highway 20 closed near Ross Dam, the popular thoroughfare comes to a dead end.

But contrary to intuition, winter is one of the best times to experience the area. The Skagit River Valley is a paradise for bird-watchers during Washington’s gloomy season. Every year, bald eagles descend on the riverbanks and pose majestically for photographers. At times, their numbers can reach into the hundreds along a short stretch of river from Rockport to Marblemount.

The Skagit River Bald Eagle Interpretive Center is located at Howard Miller Steelhead County Park in Rockport. This center is open to the public and offers guided hikes and guest speakers on weekends.

While Dan and I saw a few eagles on our trip up the Skagit River, we had our best sightings at the Wiley Slough Estuary near La Conner.

The Wiley Slough sits on the southeast corner of Fir Island, in the Skagit River Delta. The wildlife unit is a 190-acre tidal marsh lined with cattails and studded with partially-submerged tree trunks. It is brimming with eagles, herons, and a wide array of waterfowl.

As a multi-use area managed by the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, the slough is also a popular spot for waterfowl hunting.

Don’t be alarmed if you hear gunshots firing off in the distance.

VISIT HISTORIC LA CONNER

The small community of La Conner in is one of the top places to visit in the Skagit Valley. Nestled between the Skagit River Delta and the Salish Sea, La Conner is both a fishing village and an artists’ colony. The community is known for its architecture and its adorable waterfront shops.

With views of the water and a historic crescent-shaped bridge, the beautifully-positioned town is one of the most beautiful in Washington.

DRIVE THE CHUCKANUT SCENIC ROAD

When Dan and I make the drive from Seattle to Bellingham, we often take a detour via Chuckanut Drive. A scenic byway that is sometimes referred to as Washington’s Big Sur, the 24-mile curvy route hugs the sheer sandstone cliffs of the Chuckanut Mountains. Its winding ribbon of pavement connects the valley’s fertile farmlands with Bellingham’s Fairhaven neighborhood.

Chuckanut Drive is the only place where Washington’s Cascade Mountains meet the sea. Its gorgeous viewpoints extend across the Samish Sea to the San Juan Islands.

While the drive itself is a destination, the winding road contains a few noteworthy stopping places. Larrabee State Park lies at the drive’s halfway point. Washington’s first state park, it offers camping, hiking, and fishing. From its parking area, a short trail leads to the tide pools on Clayton Beach.

PEER OVER DECEPTION PASS

Deception Pass separates Whidbey from neighboring Fidalgo Island in Skagit County. It also connects two bodies of water—the Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca—in a turbulent swirl of sapphire and emerald.

Deception Pass State Park boasts beachfront and hiking trails. It is the most visited state park in Washington.

Deception Pass is a popular day trip destination that seduces visitors with its breathtaking views, its old-growth forests, and its abundant wildlife.

The state park spans both sides of an impressive and oft-photographed bridge. The Civilian Conservation Corps built the bridge in the 1930s. To this day, it is still considered to be an impressive engineering feat.

During our short visit to Deception Pass, we hiked to the summit of Goose Rock, admired the views from the bridge, and headed down to North Shore Beach.

FOLLOW HIGHWAY 20 TO NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK

Highway 20 connects the Skagit Valley with Washington’s rugged Cascade Mountains. It is one of the most spectacular drives in the United States.

As we followed the Skagit River eastward in search of eagles, the topography transformed from pancake-flat farmlands to coniferous mountainsides. From the towns of Concrete and Marblemount, it is only a stone’s throw to the North Cascades—one of three iconic national parks in Washington State.

Skagit County includes the westernmost portions of North Cascades National Park. Though the park is a backpacker’s paradise that certainly deserves its own dedicated trip, some of its hiking trails are easily accessible from towns along the Skagit River Valley.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE SKAGIT VALLEY

Admittedly, I’ve never spent the night in Skagit County. The area’s proximity to Seattle makes it too good of a day trip destination.

If I wanted to stay in a central location in the midst of the area’s abundant attractions, however, I would likely choose Mount Vernon or La Conner. La Conner appears to be a bit pricier, whereas Mount Vernon offers a slew of standard chain hotels at lower prices.

Top-rated accommodation options in the La Conner area include the Wild Iris Inn, the La Conner Channel Lodge, and Katy’s Inn.

Fifteen minutes away in Mount Vernon, top places to stay include the Best Western Plus and Tulip Inn.

WHEN TO VISIT THE SKAGIT VALLEY

The Skagit Valley is truly a year-round destination. While its weather is best enjoyed in summer, two of its top activities are only possible in springtime and winter.

Ultimately, the best time to visit the Skagit Valley depends entirely on what you’d like to see and do.

If you’re hoping to see the tulip bloom, visit in spring. For eagle-viewing, the best time to visit is winter (cloudy skies mean that the eagles fly lower to the ground).

And for everything else, you can never go wrong with summer or fall.

****

Washington’s Skagit Valley may be often overlooked, but the fertile area is a gateway to some of the most enchanting destinations along the Cascade Loop. It is home to bucolic pastures, quaint waterside towns, historic landmarks, and flower-filled farmlands. Farther afield, the area invites exploration into the Cascade Mountains, the San Juan Islands, and the northwesternmost reaches of the continental United States.

Though most are lured by its display of springtime colors, the Skagit Valley’s year-round activities make it a perfect day trip destination, no matter the season.

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Leavenworth Washington is a little slice of southern Germany that lies in the heart of the Pacific Northwest. Located at the eastern edge of Washington’s Cascade Mountains, the logging-town-turned-Bavarian village is more than 5,000 miles from the place it was made to resemble.

With its faux-German storefronts and exaggerated Bavarian folk culture, it isn’t the type of place I typically choose to visit

In fact, I’ve often found myself remarking at the town’s kitschy and over-the-top decor.

But I have to admit that Leavenworth in winter is a magical sight. As manufactured as it may be, its twinkling Christmas lights and gently falling snow have the power to seduce even the most ardent of skeptics.

LEAVENWORTH WASHINGTON

Leavenworth wasn’t always Bavaria.

Before it transformed into a touristy alpine village with Munich-style beerhalls and lederhosen-clad waitstaff, Leavenworth was a timber town that sat along the railroad tracks.

In the early 1900s, Leavenworth thrived. Its logging and sawmill industries made it a relatively prosperous little town.

But when the railroad re-routed its tracks and moved elsewhere, Leavenworth began a steep decline. The area became a near ghost town, on the brink of extinction.

After decades of job loss and economic hardship, its citizens decided to give the little mountain community a Bavarian-style makeover. The town reinvented itself and embraced every German cliche imaginable. It became a place where tourists could come to expect beerhalls and bratwursts and some of the best Christmas markets in America.

Their gamble proved successful.

And the rest is history.

THINGS TO DO IN LEAVENWORTH IN WINTER

Even those who roll their eyes at Leavenworth’s imitation game should be able to appreciate the area’s striking setting. The small town lies on the east side of the Cascade Mountains, where craggy alpine peaks collide with fertile apple-growing orchards.

Its position between two ecosystems makes it an outdoor playground akin to Bend, in Central Oregon. It is a place that attracts recreation enthusiasts with its abundance of nearby hiking, skiing, rock-climbing, and river-floating.

In summer, the Bavarian town is a gateway to the Wenatchee National Forest and Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

In winter, the town itself transforms into a wonderland of jingling sleigh bells, twinkling lights, and silent snowfall.

Leavenworth’s tasty food and plentiful accommodation options are just icing on the cake (or salt on the pretzel, in this case).

WINDOW SHOP ON FRONT STREET

Leavenworth’s Bavarian-themed Front Street is nothing if not picturesque. It may be cheesy and inauthentic, but that doesn’t make it any less adorable. Add unique boutiques and a slew of independent shops to the mix, and it isn’t difficult to see why Front Street is the epicenter of the area’s appeal.

Even I, who find shopping to be a chore on most occasions, couldn’t resist peeking into the town’s cutesy shops. They house Bavarian-themed gifts and souvenirs, unique clothing and accessories, and a wide range of  specialty foods. We found one shop dedicated to tea and spices, another to olive oil, and another to soap.

In a world where online shopping and big box stores are the unfortunate norm, Leavenworth’s thriving independent shops are a refreshing change.

VISIT THE NUTCRACKER MUSEUM

The Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum sits prominently on Front Street. Founded in 1995 by George and Arlene Wagner, it claims to have the world’s largest collection of nutcrackers.

In addition to the popular toy-soldier-shaped nutcrackers that have become Christmas staples, the museum contains shelves of antiques dating back to Roman times. It displays nut-opening devices from more than 50 countries.

In total, there are more than 7,000 nutcrackers in the museum’s collection.

Entrance to the Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum costs $5 per person. It is open daily from 11am-5pm.

Even if you’re not planning on buying tickets, it is worth taking a look at the items on display in the museum store.

WALK ALONG THE LEAVENWORTH WATERFRONT

The Leavenworth Waterfront Park provides a quick escape from the hubbub of downtown’s tourist activity. Its meandering pathways line the flanks of the Wenatchee River near downtown.

Interpretive signs explain the natural and cultural history of the area. On summer days, the park draws swimmers and picnickers. In winter, it transforms into a wonderland of ash-colored trees and brilliant snow.

Dan and I enjoyed exploring Leavenworth’s waterfront park.

While the rest of the tourists were busy nursing their hangovers, we relished the serenity of the town’s nearby nature.

SKI OR SLED ON THE LEAVENWORTH SLEDDING HILL

Leavenworth sits between two fantastic Washington ski resorts: Stevens Pass Ski Area on Highway 2, and Mission Ridge in Wenatchee. Both ski areas are located 35 miles from town, in either direction.

But sledders and beginning skiers need look no further than the outskirts of town.

The Leavenworth Ski Hill lies about five minutes north of downtown, at the edge of Tumwater Mountain. It contains rope tows and 100 ft of elevation.

Alpine and nordic skiing in the area costs $22 per day for adults and $17 for youth (ages 5-17). A day of tubing will set you back $23 per person.

VISIT THE LEAVENWORTH REINDEER FARM

Touring the reindeer farm is one of the top things to do in Leavenworth with kids. Though it is open year-round, the farm is most popular around Christmastime—when fresh snowfall and Santa visits fill its premises with winter cheer.

I’ll be honest. I didn’t visit the reindeer farm. The Leavenworth attraction is so popular in winter that it was sold out during our trip to the area.

Visiting the Leavenworth Reindeer Farm costs $20 per person. Entrance includes complementary cocoa, cider, and cookies.

EXPLORE THE TOWN’S SURROUNDING NATURE

If the faux-German storefronts aren’t enough to keep you entertained, Leavenworth also serves as the main hub for forays into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and Wenatchee National Forest.

In winter, many of the area’s higher-elevation hiking trails become off-limits to all but the heartiest explorers. Snow and ice block off roads in the national forest and render trailheads largely inaccessible.

Luckily, Leavenworth’s surroundings contain specific destinations that cater to winter exploration. West of town, Lake Wenatchee Sno-Park boasts a large network of nordic and snowshoeing trails. East of town, Sauk Campground and Pipe Creek sno parks provide less-crowded alternatives.

When Dan and I traveled to Leavenworth in winter, we had the intention of snowshoeing Wenatchee Crest—a popular trail along Highway 97.

But when we came across an overflowing parking area, we chose to press onward until we found a place to park. After a few misses, we stumbled upon FSR 7230-211.

The obscure forest service road leads to a fire tower. Along its entire length, it showcases extraordinary views of the surrounding snowcapped mountains. We couldn’t believe that we were the only people on the trail.

Our impromptu adventure was a testament to the fact that the area’s beauty extends far beyond its most popular tourist attractions.

WHERE TO STAY IN LEAVENWORTH

As one of Washington’s top tourist towns, Leavenworth has no shortage of fantastic places to stay. It boasts everything from small guesthouses to large resorts.

True to its theme, Leavenworth includes a few noteworthy Bavarian-style hotels and chalets in its lodging mix. Notable places to stay include the Obertal Inn, the Ritterhoff Inn, and the Bavarian Lodge. The Icicle Village Resort is another popular option that includes a spa.

Part of Leavenworth’s appeal is its cozy forested setting. It is one of the top places in Washington for winter cabin rentals. Travelers looking for intimate winter retreats may want to consider the top-reviewed LOGE Leavenworth Riverside and Alpine Thyme Cabins.

Reserving rooms is advance is usually necessary, especially in winter. The town is a popular winter getaway destination that runs at full capacity between December and February.

WHERE TO EAT IN LEAVENWORTH

Leavenworth has tons of places to eat for a town of its size. Behind its Disney-style facades, the mountain town brims with tasty eateries and German-style biergartens.

During our Leavenworth visit, Dan and I sampled apple strudels from the Bavarian Bakery and feasted on pretzels and bratwurst’s from München Haus.

If you don’t feel the need to pretend you’re in Bavaria, you can choose from a full range of other dining establishments.

I’ve heard great things about the Blewett Brewing Company and Argonaut Kitchen.

LEAVENWORTH WINTER FESTIVALS

It is no wonder that cheery Leavenworth is a year-round tourist destination. The charming mountain town boasts festivals for pretty much every month of the year.

In September, the Autumn Leaf Festival brings live music and food booths. One month later, Oktoberfest draws beer-lovers in droves.

On Thanksgiving weekend, the Christkindlemarkt ushers in a season of holiday spirit. Christmas lights line rafters and the streets fill with market stalls selling handmade arts and crafts.

The festive season lasts through Valentine’s Day. It includes the Christmas Lighting Festival in December, and the Bavarian Ice Fest in January.

*****

Leavenworth may be manufactured and cheesy, but that doesn’t make it any less magical in wintertime. With its twinkling lights and blanket of fresh powder, the former logging town provides the perfect holiday escape for rain-drenched Seattleites.

Sure, visiting Leavenworth is not like visiting Europe. The small town along Washington’s Cascade Loop is not steeped in history. Nor is it authentic in its architecture and traditions.

But I’m not pretending that it is, either.

So when I’m unable to justify a weekend trip to Europe on a whim, visiting Leavenworth is a pretty good alternative.

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In Oregon’s Cascade Mountains, two geologically fascinating ecosystems collide. On the west side of the Cascades, lush Douglas fir and red cedar forests conceal waterfalls and glimmering lakes. On the drier east side, ponderosa pines prevail and cloudless skies abound. 

Oregon’s two halves clash in everything from climate to politics to scenery. The area of their convergence reveals a place that is at once hot and cold, wet and dry, living and dead. Charred forests give birth to new life. Frigid streams contain pockets of boiling water. Lava fields adjoin snow fields, providing visual reminders of the forces of fire and ice that have shaped the land. 

When brought together, these contrasting elements create an outdoor-lover’s paradise of postcard-worthy backdrops and geologic wonder. 

THE MCKENZIE PASS-SANTIAM PASS SCENIC BYWAY

The McKenzie-Santiam Scenic Byway is primarily made up of two roads: the narrow winding Old McKenzie Highway, and Oregon’s Route 126. 

Both roads connect Sisters with the Willamette Valley. Both lead to some of Oregon’s most beautiful and underrated gems. 

While they are often traveled independently of one another, the two roads combine to create an unforgettable route that showcases the diverse geology of Oregon’s central Cascades. 

If approached from the east, the McKenzie Pass-Santiam Pass Loop begins and ends in the western-themed town of Sisters. Alternatively, you can start the loop near McKenzie Bridge.

Along its course, the byway journeys through verdant forest and provides peek-a-boo views of snowcapped volcanoes.

Broken Top Mountain, Mount Washington and The Three Sisters tower above the area, while waterfalls and rivers lie hidden beneath its carpet of evergreen trees.

THE MCKENZIE RIVER HIGHWAY: OR-126

The OR126 contains no shortage of places to see. The highway crosses much of the state and connects the central Oregon coast with Sisters.

As it leaves the oceanside city of Florence, the ribbon of pavement traverses a shallow coastal mountain range and enters the fertile Willamette Valley. After passing the Eugene-Springfield metro area, it follows the McKenzie River through the Willamette National Forest—where it reveals plunging waterfalls, turquoise pools, and secluded hot springs.

Parts of Highway 126 suffered severe damage during the Holiday Farm Fire of 2020. East of Eugene, between Vida and McKenzie Bridge, the road passes through wildfire-scorched landscapes that reveal heartbreaking destruction. 

If you’re intending to approach the McKenzie-Santiam Loop from the west, check updated information before planning a trip to the area. Debris and landslides still present significant hazards. And the scars from the devastating wildfire season are visible reminders of the area’s long path toward recovery. 

BELKNAP AND COUGAR HOT SPRINGS 

Central Oregon’s abundant volcanic activity has resulted in a smattering of thermal springs. The McKenzie Highway is home to two of the most beloved hot springs in Oregon: Belknap and Cougar (also known as Terwilliger). 

Belknap is a developed mini-resort with hotel rooms and a concrete pool. For non-guests, soaking costs $8 per hour and is permitted between 9am and 6pm on weekdays. 

Nearby Cougar consists of clothing-optional pools that cascade down the river like a necklace chain. A natural spring, it contains six soaking areas that are spaced apart by rock walls and surrounded by verdant forest. They range in temperature from 85 to 112 degrees. 

Due to wildfire damage in 2020, the Cougar Hot Springs are temporarily off-limits. 

THE TAMOLITCH POOL

The Tamolitch Pool lies along the ambling McKenzie River Trail. Known alternatively as the ‘Blue Pool’ for its striking color, it is one of the most beautiful bodies of water in Oregon.

Some 16,000 years ago, lava flow from Belknap Crater buried a 3 mile stretch of the McKenzie River. Thus, while the Blue Pool seems to spring out of nowhere, it is actually the continuation of a river that momentarily sinks below ground. When the river resurfaces, it seeps through porous lava, creating a pristine turquoise swimming hole. The porous rock acts as a natural filter, removing contaminants and resulting in a shade of blue that is almost difficult to believe.

The Tamolich Pool’s jewel-like water alternates between shades of turquoise, sapphire and emerald. When light touches its surface, the blue pool is almost iridescent. 

The 3.7 mile out-and-back trail to the Blue Pool is a popular day trip from both Eugene and Bend. Its popularity has risen dramatically in recent years. 

When I was growing up, I’d never even heard of the Blue Pool. 

Now, its photos are plastered all over social media and its scintillating waters draw tourists from all corners of the state and beyond. 

SAHALIE AND KOOSAH FALLS LOOP

The Sahalie and Koosah Falls Loop is one of the most popular hikes along Oregon’s McKenzie River. Reminiscent in some ways to the lauded Trail of Ten Falls near Salem, it is a multi-cascade trek that boasts unforgettable waterfalls and a lush forested setting.

The two waterfalls lie along a 26 mile river trail that also includes the Tamolitch Pool. Portions of the river trail are popular among hikers and mountain bikers. 

Most visitors, however, choose to explore the two cascades as part of a 2.6 mile loop from the Sahalie Falls parking lot. 

• SAHALIE FALLS

Sahalie Falls is a raging cataract that pounds the river into rainbow prisms. Its impressive rush of white water pours 100 ft over a naturally-formed lava dam.

All around, mossy vegetation carpets the area in shades of emerald.  

At times of high water, a secondary stream drops into the lava bowl to the right of the main cascade—adding character to an already picturesque scene.

• KOOSAH FALLS

Though slightly smaller and less popular than its neighbor, Koosah Falls is no less impressive. The cascade pummels over lava rock and empties forcefully into the sapphire waters of the McKenzie River. 

While 64 ft Koosah Falls contains its own parking area and is easily accessible from the highway, most choose to visit the attraction as part of the Sahalie Falls Loop. 

HOODOO SKI AREA

Hoodoo is a local ski resort that caters to families from the Willamette Valley and Central Oregon. It is home to five lifts that provide access to 800 acres of skiable terrain.

During winter months, it becomes one of the top outdoor playgrounds in the Oregon Cascades. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON VIEWPOINT

After crossing over Santiam Pass, the landscape along Oregon’s Highway 126 transforms. The Ponderosa-clad Deschutes National Forest replaces the moss-covered fir trees of Oregon’s western half. On either side of the road, snow-capped mountains peek out over the fire-charred forest. 

Between Hoodoo and Sisters, roadside pullouts offer views of steep-sided Mount Washington and the iconic Three Sisters.

Mount Washington rises above lava-strewn plains. Though it is one of the most impressive attractions in Oregon’s Cascades, the craggy peak is often overlooked.

The McKenzie-Santiam Highway provides some of the state’s best views of the sheer mountain and its surroundings. 

OLD MCKENZIE PASS SCENIC BYWAY: OR-242

The Old McKenzie Highway is one of Oregon’s most scenic drives. The seasonal highway (accessible from July through September) cuts between two of Central Oregon’s top wilderness areas and connects the towns of Sisters and McKenzie Bridge.

Along the way, it provides access to countless historic, recreational, and scenic attractions—including lunar landscapes, waterfalls, and old growth forests.

The Old McKenzie Highway follows the path of an 1860s wagon route. It highlights jaw-dropping vistas of Mount Washington and a 65-square-mile lava flow.

Beyond the sprawling lava flow, it snakes through emerald forest and passes by stunning waterfalls. 

DEE WRIGHT OBSERVATORY

The Dee Wright Observatory is located in the Oregon Cascades, atop a barren blanket of lava in the Willamette National Forest. It overlooks a 65-square-mile sea of black lava rock. 

The Dee Wright Observatory dates back to the 1930s, when the Civilian Conservation Corps constructed the structure to showcase the area’s spectacular topography.  The rocky shelter features a number of viewing windows, some of which have been specifically aligned to capture views of prominent peaks.

As with the nearby Newberry Crater National Monument, the volcanic lunar landscape near the Dee Wright Observatory caught the attention of NASA astronauts planning a mission to the moon. Scientists believed that the moon’s mysterious pockmarked surface was a result of volcanic activity.

So in order to prepare for what they might encounter in space, they performed extensive fieldwork and equipment testing in the area.

It isn’t difficult to see why the Oregon lava lands represented their closest approximation to the moon’s surface. 

PROXY FALLS

The Proxy Falls Trail passes through lava fields that have been reclaimed by forest. It features two lovely waterfalls that spill over mosses and ferns.

Though the Old McKenzie Highway remains closed to vehicle traffic for much of the year, Proxy Falls is accessible year-round. When Dan and I visited in winter, we parked at the snow gate on the road’s western end.

From the gate, we hiked up the highway for two miles, before veering off toward the waterfall. 

I’ve read that the Proxy Falls trail can get crowded in summer.

During our winter visit, however, we found ourselves standing before the 254 ft waterfall in complete solitude.

• UPPER PROXY FALLS

At 129 ft, Upper Proxy Falls is the smaller of two beautiful waterfalls that lie along the Old McKenzie Highway. Its vertical stream trickles over a carpet of dense green moss and ferns.

Though the cascade itself is beautiful, its most particular characteristic is the fact that its water seems to vanish upon reaching the ground.

Instead of flowing onward, the waterfall’s ribbon of water plunges into porous subsoil and sinks below lava rock.

• PROXY FALLS

Proxy Falls pours 226 ft into a gaping canyon in the Willamette National Forest.

The cascade’s wispy tentacles spread out over the rock like a dense spider web. I found it quite reminiscent to Spray Falls in Washington’s Mount Rainier National Park. 

With its graceful form, mossy surroundings, and fairy tale aesthetic, Proxy Falls is one of the most beautiful cascades in the Pacific Northwest.

Having the attraction completely to ourselves made our experience all the more magical. 

WHERE TO STAY ALONG THE MCKENZIE-SANTIAM HIGHWAY 

Sisters is a picturesque western town that acts as the gateway to some of Central Oregon’s best recreation. It boasts wonderful places to stay—including the FivePine Lodge, the Best Western Ponderosa Lodge, and the GrandStay Hotel and Suites. 

Outside of Sisters, accommodation is mostly relegated to camping. There are numerous primitive and established campsites scattered along the loop.

WHEN TO VISIT THE MCKENZIE-SANTIAM HIGHWAY

Driving the full McKenzie Pass-Santiam Pass Loop is only possible between July and September, when warm sunny temperatures dominate the weather forecast. Much like the Cascade Lakes Highway, the OR-242 remains closed to vehicle traffic during Oregon’s snowy season. 

That being said, many of the area’s attractions are still accessible year-round. Highway 126 is fantastic in winter, when the waterfalls plunge in full force and crowds are few and far between. 

If you’re willing to put in a little extra effort, Proxy Falls makes for a fantastic (albeit longer than normal) winter day hike.

And after a day of exploring Oregon’s waterfalls in the cold and rain, the area’s thermal hot springs are all the more rewarding. 

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Oregon’s highest mountains create wildly contrasting landscapes. Along the McKenzie Highway’s scenic loop, the juxtaposition of fire and ice reveals a land that has been carved by the elements and sculpted by forces of nature. Glaciated peaks rise up from stark black lava fields. Charred trees—once ravaged by wildfires—give birth to fledgling vegetation. Ice-cold waterways lie adjacent to steamy thermal pools. 

And amidst its wildly contrasting landscapes, the drive showcases nature’s capacity for beauty, as well as its wanton tendency toward destruction. 

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