Leavenworth in Winter: A Bavarian-Style Getaway
Leavenworth Washington is a little slice of southern Germany that lies in the heart of the Pacific Northwest. Located at the eastern edge of Washington’s Cascade Mountains, the logging-town-turned-Bavarian village is more than 5,000 miles from the place it was made to resemble.
With its faux-German storefronts and exaggerated Bavarian folk culture, it isn’t the type of place I typically choose to visit
In fact, I’ve often found myself remarking at the town’s kitschy and over-the-top decor.
But I have to admit that Leavenworth in winter is a magical sight. As manufactured as it may be, its twinkling Christmas lights and gently falling snow have the power to seduce even the most ardent of skeptics.
LEAVENWORTH WASHINGTON
Leavenworth wasn’t always Bavaria.
Before it transformed into a touristy alpine village with Munich-style beerhalls and lederhosen-clad waitstaff, Leavenworth was a timber town that sat along the railroad tracks.
In the early 1900s, Leavenworth thrived. Its logging and sawmill industries made it a relatively prosperous little town.
But when the railroad re-routed its tracks and moved elsewhere, Leavenworth began a steep decline. The area became a near ghost town, on the brink of extinction.
After decades of job loss and economic hardship, its citizens decided to give the little mountain community a Bavarian-style makeover. The town reinvented itself and embraced every German cliche imaginable. It became a place where tourists could come to expect beerhalls and bratwursts and some of the best Christmas markets in America.
Their gamble proved successful.
And the rest is history.
THINGS TO DO IN LEAVENWORTH IN WINTER
Even those who roll their eyes at Leavenworth’s imitation game should be able to appreciate the area’s striking setting. The small town lies on the east side of the Cascade Mountains, where craggy alpine peaks collide with fertile apple-growing orchards.
Its position between two ecosystems makes it an outdoor playground akin to Bend, in Central Oregon. It is a place that attracts recreation enthusiasts with its abundance of nearby hiking, skiing, rock-climbing, and river-floating.
In summer, the Bavarian town is a gateway to the Wenatchee National Forest and Alpine Lakes Wilderness.
In winter, the town itself transforms into a wonderland of jingling sleigh bells, twinkling lights, and silent snowfall.
Leavenworth’s tasty food and plentiful accommodation options are just icing on the cake (or salt on the pretzel, in this case).
WINDOW SHOP ON FRONT STREET
Leavenworth’s Bavarian-themed Front Street is nothing if not picturesque. It may be cheesy and inauthentic, but that doesn’t make it any less adorable. Add unique boutiques and a slew of independent shops to the mix, and it isn’t difficult to see why Front Street is the epicenter of the area’s appeal.
Even I, who find shopping to be a chore on most occasions, couldn’t resist peeking into the town’s cutesy shops. They house Bavarian-themed gifts and souvenirs, unique clothing and accessories, and a wide range of specialty foods. We found one shop dedicated to tea and spices, another to olive oil, and another to soap.
In a world where online shopping and big box stores are the unfortunate norm, Leavenworth’s thriving independent shops are a refreshing change.
VISIT THE NUTCRACKER MUSEUM
The Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum sits prominently on Front Street. Founded in 1995 by George and Arlene Wagner, it claims to have the world’s largest collection of nutcrackers.
In addition to the popular toy-soldier-shaped nutcrackers that have become Christmas staples, the museum contains shelves of antiques dating back to Roman times. It displays nut-opening devices from more than 50 countries.
In total, there are more than 7,000 nutcrackers in the museum’s collection.
Entrance to the Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum costs $5 per person. It is open daily from 11am-5pm.
Even if you’re not planning on buying tickets, it is worth taking a look at the items on display in the museum store.
WALK ALONG THE LEAVENWORTH WATERFRONT
The Leavenworth Waterfront Park provides a quick escape from the hubbub of downtown’s tourist activity. Its meandering pathways line the flanks of the Wenatchee River near downtown.
Interpretive signs explain the natural and cultural history of the area. On summer days, the park draws swimmers and picnickers. In winter, it transforms into a wonderland of ash-colored trees and brilliant snow.
Dan and I enjoyed exploring Leavenworth’s waterfront park.
While the rest of the tourists were busy nursing their hangovers, we relished the serenity of the town’s nearby nature.
SKI OR SLED ON THE LEAVENWORTH SLEDDING HILL
Leavenworth sits between two fantastic Washington ski resorts: Stevens Pass Ski Area on Highway 2, and Mission Ridge in Wenatchee. Both ski areas are located 35 miles from town, in either direction.
But sledders and beginning skiers need look no further than the outskirts of town.
The Leavenworth Ski Hill lies about five minutes north of downtown, at the edge of Tumwater Mountain. It contains rope tows and 100 ft of elevation.
Alpine and nordic skiing in the area costs $22 per day for adults and $17 for youth (ages 5-17). A day of tubing will set you back $23 per person.
VISIT THE LEAVENWORTH REINDEER FARM
Touring the reindeer farm is one of the top things to do in Leavenworth with kids. Though it is open year-round, the farm is most popular around Christmastime—when fresh snowfall and Santa visits fill its premises with winter cheer.
I’ll be honest. I didn’t visit the reindeer farm. The Leavenworth attraction is so popular in winter that it was sold out during our trip to the area.
Visiting the Leavenworth Reindeer Farm costs $20 per person. Entrance includes complementary cocoa, cider, and cookies.
EXPLORE THE TOWN’S SURROUNDING NATURE
If the faux-German storefronts aren’t enough to keep you entertained, Leavenworth also serves as the main hub for forays into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and Wenatchee National Forest.
In winter, many of the area’s higher-elevation hiking trails become off-limits to all but the heartiest explorers. Snow and ice block off roads in the national forest and render trailheads largely inaccessible.
Luckily, Leavenworth’s surroundings contain specific destinations that cater to winter exploration. West of town, Lake Wenatchee Sno-Park boasts a large network of nordic and snowshoeing trails. East of town, Sauk Campground and Pipe Creek sno parks provide less-crowded alternatives.
When Dan and I traveled to Leavenworth in winter, we had the intention of snowshoeing Wenatchee Crest—a popular trail along Highway 97.
But when we came across an overflowing parking area, we chose to press onward until we found a place to park. After a few misses, we stumbled upon FSR 7230-211.
The obscure forest service road leads to a fire tower. Along its entire length, it showcases extraordinary views of the surrounding snowcapped mountains. We couldn’t believe that we were the only people on the trail.
Our impromptu adventure was a testament to the fact that the area’s beauty extends far beyond its most popular tourist attractions.
WHERE TO STAY IN LEAVENWORTH
As one of Washington’s top tourist towns, Leavenworth has no shortage of fantastic places to stay. It boasts everything from small guesthouses to large resorts.
True to its theme, Leavenworth includes a few noteworthy Bavarian-style hotels and chalets in its lodging mix. Notable places to stay include the Obertal Inn, the Ritterhoff Inn, and the Bavarian Lodge. The Icicle Village Resort is another popular option that includes a spa.
Part of Leavenworth’s appeal is its cozy forested setting. It is one of the top places in Washington for winter cabin rentals. Travelers looking for intimate winter retreats may want to consider the top-reviewed LOGE Leavenworth Riverside and Alpine Thyme Cabins.
Reserving rooms is advance is usually necessary, especially in winter. The town is a popular winter getaway destination that runs at full capacity between December and February.
WHERE TO EAT IN LEAVENWORTH
Leavenworth has tons of places to eat for a town of its size. Behind its Disney-style facades, the mountain town brims with tasty eateries and German-style biergartens.
During our Leavenworth visit, Dan and I sampled apple strudels from the Bavarian Bakery and feasted on pretzels and bratwurst’s from München Haus.
If you don’t feel the need to pretend you’re in Bavaria, you can choose from a full range of other dining establishments.
I’ve heard great things about the Blewett Brewing Company and Argonaut Kitchen.
LEAVENWORTH WINTER FESTIVALS
It is no wonder that cheery Leavenworth is a year-round tourist destination. The charming mountain town boasts festivals for pretty much every month of the year.
In September, the Autumn Leaf Festival brings live music and food booths. One month later, Oktoberfest draws beer-lovers in droves.
On Thanksgiving weekend, the Christkindlemarkt ushers in a season of holiday spirit. Christmas lights line rafters and the streets fill with market stalls selling handmade arts and crafts.
The festive season lasts through Valentine’s Day. It includes the Christmas Lighting Festival in December, and the Bavarian Ice Fest in January.
*****
Leavenworth may be manufactured and cheesy, but that doesn’t make it any less magical in wintertime. With its twinkling lights and blanket of fresh powder, the former logging town provides the perfect holiday escape for rain-drenched Seattleites.
Sure, visiting Leavenworth is not like visiting Europe. The small town along Washington’s Cascade Loop is not steeped in history. Nor is it authentic in its architecture and traditions.
But I’m not pretending that it is, either.
So when I’m unable to justify a weekend trip to Europe on a whim, visiting Leavenworth is a pretty good alternative.
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