Have you ever dreamed of sipping cocktails at a beach bar while rubbing shoulders with the rich and famous? Or of sinking your bare feet into the sand while indulging in five-star luxury? Perhaps you’ve longed to escape to a place where Caribbean vibes meet French sophistication.

If so, look no further than Saint Barthélemy—better known as St. Barts (or St. Barths, depending on who you ask).

Tucked away in the shimmering turquoise waters of the Caribbean, St Barts is a sun-drenched and carefree playground for the ultra wealthy. It is a place where multi-million dollar mega-yachts outnumber fishing boats, and where champagne flows as freely as the ocean breeze.

Saint Barthélemy–The Billionaire’s Island

Tiny St. Barthélemy is a charming Caribbean island characterized by rolling hills, secluded coves, and white-sand beaches. Part of the Leeward Islands in the Lesser Antilles, it lies southeast of St. Martin and north of St. Kitts and Nevis.

Politically, St. Barts is an overseas collectivity of France, having separated administratively from Guadeloupe in 2007. The island’s strong ties to France are evident in its language, cuisine, and use of the Euro.

Despite its small size, St. Barts has earned a global reputation as an elite tourism destination. Celebrities and billionaires flock to the island for a low-key Caribbean escape, especially during the winter holidays.

In Gustavia, mega-yachts dot the harbor, and name-brand designer stores line the streets. Known for luxury villas and fine dining, this stylish island has often been compared to a Caribbean version of St. Tropez in France.

Day Trip from St. Martin

If, like me, you don’t have the cash to splurge on a full St. Barts vacation, you can still enjoy the island’s stunning scenery and beaches with a day trip from the more affordable nearby island of St. Martin.

We visited St. Barthélemy as part of a DIY island-hopping adventure that included St. Kitts, Saba, St. Eustatius, and St. Martin. Our day trip gave us about eight hours to explore St. Barts—enough for a brief but comprehensive self-guided tour around the island.

To reach St. Barts from St. Martin, you can either take a ferry (like we did) or fly into the island’s tiny airport.

• By Ferry

A ferry connects St. Martin and St. Barts multiple times a day. The often-choppy 45-minute ride runs between Philipsburg in Dutch St. Maarten and Gustavia, the capital of St. Barthélemy. It costs 60 euros each way. You can find the schedule at stbarthferry.com.

The ride from St. Martin to St. Barts is nicknamed the “vomit comet” due to rough waters, though the return trip is often much smoother.

• By Plane

While the ferry is the cheapest option for a St. Barts day trip, some travelers choose to fly—either for convenience or for the thrill of landing at Gustaf III Airport.

The airport on St. Barthélemy is among the most unique in the Caribbean. It has an extremely short runway of about 650 meters (around 2,100 feet). Because of the surrounding hills and the airstrip’s proximity to the beach, planes must make a steep descent over a ridge before landing. Only small aircraft and specially trained pilots are permitted to land here.

Even if you’re not planning on flying into St. Barts, it is worth stopping by the airport for a photo. The short landing strip sits right up against St. Jean beach, making it look as though the runway leads directly to the sea.

Best Things to See in St Barts

Like most Caribbean destinations, St Barts is famous for its white sand beaches and warm, inviting waters. The island’s beautiful beaches—ranging from secluded coves to windswept shores

Gustavia Town

While most of our fellow St. Barts day trippers spent their afternoon window shopping in Gustavia, Dan and I chose to rent a car and explore as much of the island as possible. As a result, we didn’t have much time to explore Gustavia’s shops and restaurants.

Still, at the end of our day trip to St. Barths, we got a taste of the town while waiting for our return ferry.

Gustavia is known for its upscale atmosphere. Along its narrow streets, you’ll see designer boutiques, art galleries, cafés, and fine dining restaurants. Gustavia’s red-roofed buildings give the quaint town its own signature charm, while its marina serves as a hub for sailing and yachting in the northeastern Caribbean.

The capital of St. Barts was named after Gustav III, during the period in which Sweden controlled the island from 1784 to 1878.

Today, sky-high prices are pretty much the only similarity you’ll find between Scandinavia and St. Barts.

Colombier Beach

Often considered the prettiest beach in St. Barts, Colombier sits on the northwestern shore of the island and is entirely backed by greenery.

Because it does not have road access, visitors must reach the beach either by boat or by hiking scenic trails from nearby areas.

Two main paths lead to the beach: one beginning near La Petite Anse and another descending from a viewpoint above the Colombier district. La Petite Anse Trail provides the easier route, while the steeper hilltop trail offers sweeping views of Colombier Bay on the way down.

We chose to access the beach via the steeper route and found it quite manageable, despite carrying a three year old on our shoulders.

The waters of Colombier Beach are warm and gentle and well worth the hike. Lack of direct access has helped preserve Colombier’s natural beauty.

With soft white sand, clear turquoise water, and lush green surroundings, the bay feel blissfully free of commercialization and development.

Flamands Beach

While we didn’t visit Flamands Beach per se, we saw some beautiful birds-eye views of its ivory crescent during our hike to Colombier Beach.

The large sweeping Plage Flamands is among the island’s longest. Despite being home to the chic Cheval Blanc St. Barth Hotel, The resort’s understated presence makes the beach feel seem somewhat untainted by development.

The waves at Flamands Beach tend to be rougher than those at Colombier or Grand Cul-de-Sac, so while the beach is ideal for long walks and sunset-viewing, swimming conditions are variable.

Grand Cul-de-Sac Beach

Unlike the more open Atlantic beaches on the island, the reef at Grand Cul-de-Sac creates calm, gentle water that makes the bay ideal for swimming, wading, and paddling.

Grand Cul-de-Sac lies at the center of St. Barts’ watersports scene. Kitesurfing and windsurfing are popular here, thanks to steady trade winds that blow across the lagoon.

Several beachfront resorts and restaurants line the shore of Grand Cul-de-Sac, including Rosewood Le Guanahani St. Bart and Le Barthélemy Hotel & Spa.

We didn’t spend any time at Grand Cul-de-Sac Beach and just saw it briefly while passing by.

The beach didn’t particularly stand out to me in terms of beauty, but the calmness of its waters made it particularly appealing for swimming with kids.

Saline Beach

Large and sweeping, Saline Beach is among the most beautiful on St. Barts.

You can reach Saline Beach via a short walk over sand dunes from the nearby village of Grande Saline. At the end of the path, the beach opens up to a swathe of sand and clear turquoise water.

Unlike many other beaches on the island, Saline is completely backed by scenery. There are no hotels, restaurants, or condos directly on the shoreline, nor is there much shade.

The waves from the Atlantic Ocean can sometimes be stronger here than on other parts of the island, which adds to its dramatic beauty. Rougher water means that swimmers should take extra precautions and monitor conditions, however.

We visited Saline Beach in May and encountered some sargasso seaweed. The Caribbean’s seaweed season peaks in the summer and mostly affects the beaches on St Barths’ Atlantic side.

Saint Jean Beach

Located just east of Gustavia, the ivory sands of Saint Jean Beach line a wide crescent-shaped bay. The bay is divided into two sections by the small headland known as Eden Rock.

Because the water is generally shallow and gentle, St. Jean Beach is a popular place for swimming, paddleboarding, and snorkeling.

The large beach sits directly in front of the Gustaf III Airport. For aviation enthusiasts, it provides a perfect place to watch planes takeoff and land.

Along the shoreline of St Jean Beach, you’ll find stylish clubs, restaurants, and boutique hotels.

Where to Stay in St Barts

If you’re a cost-conscious traveler wanting to stay overnight on St. Barts, your best bet is to rent an apartment or studio. Rooms for rent can be found for as low as $200 per night, though $400+ seems to be the norm. Options on the more affordable end of the spectrum include the Tourterelle Garden Room and Le Bungalow Gypset.

For travelers without budget constraints, the island delivers some of the most elegant rooms in the Caribbean. The Tropical Hotel St. Barths boasts colorful rooms, a garden-like setting, and Michelin ratings. Le Barthélemy Hotel and Spa and Le Sereno are likewise good options, with beautiful beachfronts, luxurious pools, and the signature St. Barts elegance.

When to Visit St Barts

Like much of the Caribbean, the best time to visit St. Barts is from December to April, during the dry season. The island is especially popular during the Christmas and New Year holidays.

For lower prices and quieter beaches, the shoulder season of late April to June is excellent. We visited during the month of May, and encountered near perfect weather.

Low season on St Barts is from July to October. Summer and fall means lower prices, but it also increases your chances of encountering hurricanes, business closures, and sargasso-covered shores.

*****

With its soft ivory sands, crystal clear water, and stylish elegance, it is no wonder that St Barthélemy has garnered a reputation for being the Caribbean’s most exclusive escape.

But while St Barts may be a popular destination for the rich and famous, our visit proved that you don’t have to be a billionaire to enjoy the island’s laid-back vibe and sun-drenched shores.

The post St Barts day trip from St Martin appeared first on Erika's Travels .

When it comes to Caribbean islands, there’s no one-size-fits-all. You’ll find some islands that offer turquoise waters and snow-colored sands, others ripe with colorful colonial buildings, and yet other islands with cultural relevance that far outstrips their real estate on the globe.

And then there’s Sint Eustatius—commonly and lovingly referred to as Statia.

Statia is teeny. Blink and you’ll miss it.

The island isn’t a popular bucket list destination, nor does it cater to much tourism at all.

But its relative obscurity is all part of its appeal.

Sint Eustatius Island Overview

Sint Eustatius remains largely untouched by Caribbean mass tourism. The pint-sized island, located in the Windward Islands between Saba and St Kitts and Nevis, is a special municipality of the Netherlands alongside Saba and Bonaire.

Sint Eustatius has a permanent population of about 3,400 residents spread out over eight square miles.

Dominated by The Quill, a volcano on the north side of the island, Statia offers tourists a mix of hiking, snorkeling and sightseeing.

A Brief History of St Eustatius

Statia’s has an outsized historical importance comparative to its diminutive size.

The island’s most famous historical moment came during the American Revolutionary War. In 1776, the island’s governor ordered a cannon salute in response to the arrival of the American brig Andrew Doria. This “First Salute” is widely recognized as the first international acknowledgment of the United States’ independence from Britain.

Sint Eustatius also played an outsized role in Caribbean trading history. The island shifted among European powers multiple times before becoming a major Dutch port. Because it allowed duty-free commerce, Statia became a bustling hub of exchange between ships from Europe, Africa, and the Americas.

By the 19th century, Statia’s importance waned as trade routes shifted and other ports rose to prominence.

Soon, the island settled into a quieter existence as a small Dutch Caribbean community.

Things to See on St Eustatius

Because of its size, St Eustatius’ main sites can be easily seen within a few hours. We stayed on the island for two full days and explored pretty much every labeled dot on the map.

Oranjestad

Oranjestad (not to be confused with the capital of Aruba) is the historic capital of St. Eustatius. Perched dramatically along the island’s western coastline overlooking the Caribbean Sea, the little city was once a thriving hub of 18th-century trade.

Oranjestad is the main settlement on St Eustatius, housing the vast majority of the island’s restaurants and lodging options.

The town is divided into Upper Town, where the island’s historic fort and government buildings sit perched atop cliffs, and Lower Town, which was formerly a warehouse-lined waterfront.

Today, the island’s capital is quiet and atmospheric. It boasts some well-preserved ruins, Dutch colonial architecture, stone pathways, and sweeping ocean views.

Fort Oranje

Fort Oranje is a prominent 17th-century fortress overlooking Oranjestad’s lower town. Built to protect the island and its vital harbor during the height of Caribbean trade, it showcases dramatic views of the island’s shoreline from its lofty perch.

Fort Oranje once served as the island’s main defensive stronghold.

Today, the ruins remain a well-preserved landmark, offering sweeping views of the Caribbean Sea.

Exploring Fort Oranje is one of the top things to do in St Eustatius.

Quill National Park

Quill National Park protects the lush volcanic landscape surrounding The Quill, a dormant stratovolcano that dominates the southern half of St. Eustatius. The park features a network of well-marked hiking trails that wind through dry forest and rainforest.

As one of the island’s most important natural areas, Quill National Park is home to diverse plant and bird species. We kept a lookout for the endemic and elusive bridled quail dove during our hike, to no avail.

The path to the top of the volcano is shaded and well marked. The trail’s summit offers aerial views of the island and surrounding sea. Hiking the Quill is arguably the top thing to do in St Eustatius.

Fort de Windt

Fort de Windt is a small fortification located near the southern tip of St. Eustatius, overlooking Oranje Bay. Built in the 18th century as part of the island’s coastal defense system, the fort helped protect Statia’s busy harbor during its peak trading era.

There isn’t much to see at For de Windt today. The historical site’s stone ruins are partially overgrown and mostly consist of a platform with a few cannons.

If you have a rental car, however, the views from Fort de Windt are worth a visit. From the ruins, you can admire the views of neighboring Saba and the cliffs plunging into the island’s sapphire sea.

We had the place completely to ourselves during our visit, save for a group of sure-footed goats that were putting on a show of balance and agility.

Zeelandia Beach

On St Eustatius, you won’t find the idyllic Caribbean beaches that draw tourists to places like Eleuthera Bahamas or Anguilla or Saint Barths. Most of Statia’s beaches consist of narrow strips of dull gray sand.

The largest and most beautiful beach in St Eustatius is undoubtedly Zeelandia, on the island’s northern shore. It features a long stretch of sand, pounding surf, and unobstructed views of cliffs and The Quill.

Zeelandia Beach isn’t the type of place I would bring my toddler for a swim, but it is the perfect place to eat a picnic lunch and soak in the views of the island.

Dutch Reformed Church

The Dutch Reformed Church is a historically significant landmark that reflects the island’s deep ties to the Netherlands.

Established in the 18th century during the island’s heyday as a Caribbean trading hub, the church served the Dutch settlers and merchants who lived in Oranjestad.

Though no longer an active place of worship, the Dutch Reformed Church merits a quick visit while touring the island’s colonial relics.

Boven National Park

Boven National Park covers the rugged northern hills of St. Eustatius. It encompasses some lovely scenery and protects the island’s flora and fauna.

We chose to hike the Boven Trail to Venus Beach during our tour of the island. The path brought us through beautiful rolling hills and showcased Statia’s unique flora. We crossed dry forest, thorny scrub, and pockets of lush vegetation.

Like The Quill, Boven is especially important for wildlife. It provides habitat for rare plants, nesting seabirds, and roaming goats and iguanas.

The hike (approximately 3 hours round trip) led us to the boulder-studded shores of Venus Bay.

We did not encounter anyone else during our hike and I’m fairly confident that we had the entire national park to ourselves.

Oranje Bay Beach

Oranje Bay Beach is a dark-sand beach that sits just below the historic town of Oranjestad.

The sandy beach is a popular spot for swimming, snorkeling, and diving, with coral reefs and marine life easily accessible from the shoreline. We found it to be much more suitable for swimming than the windswept shores of Zeelandia Beach.

Behind the beach, you’ll find the Subaqua Dive Center, where you can rent gear and organize trips to explore the island’s underwater world.

Something unique to Saba is the presence of little round beads that lie amongst the coral. These small cobalt-colored glass beads were brought to the island by Dutch traders in the 17th and 18th centuries. They were historically used as a form of currency, including in transactions involving slaves.

You can still find these little beads while snorkeling or scuba diving, if you’re lucky.

Where to Stay on St Eustatius

We stayed at the Talk of the Town Inn and Suites while on St Eustatius and found it to be a good mid-range option. It was clean and had a pool and a little kitchenette. The Old Gin House, centrally located near the beach in Oranjestad would have been our top choice had they had availability.

The other places to stay in Statia were either out of our budget or had poor reviews.

If budget isn’t an issue for you, then the Golden Rock Dive and Nature Resort appears to be the best place to stay on the island.

Getting around St Eustatius

To get around Statia, you’ll have to hire a taxi, rent a car, or use your own two feet. The areas around Oranjestad are easily explored on foot, but having a car is helpful to get to Zeelandia Beach and Fort de Windt.

We rented a car to get around the island. The rental process was extremely informal and a car set us back $50 per day.

Getting to St Eustatius

Though there are no direct flights between Sint Eustatius and the United States, you can reach the island by plane from St Martin or by boat from a number of the surrounding islands. The Makana Ferry links St Eustatius with Saba, St Martin, and St Kitts.

*****

While Sint Eustatius is rarely the first Caribbean destination that comes to mind, its obscurity makes it all the more special.

You won’t find any cruise docks, souvenir shops, or luxury resorts on the island. In fact, you may not find any other tourists at all.

Instead, what you’ll encounter is a little-visited gem that is authentic, laid-back, and wholly unique.

The post Sint Eustatius: An Island Guide appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Clad in verdant, jungle-covered hills, the twin islands of St. Kitts and Nevis are emerald specks in the Caribbean Sea.

On St. Kitts, the dormant, crater-topped cone of Mount Liamuiga rises above old sugar plantations. Its smattering of historical relics is a reminder of the colonial past that shaped the modern Caribbean.

Across the channel, Nevis moves to a slower beat—its golden beaches, tranquil villages, and leafy gardens beckoning travelers with a laid-back charm.

St. Kitts and Nevis: an Overview

Located in the West Indies between Montserrat and St. Eustatius, St. Kitts and Nevis contain plenty of variety for those who enjoy mixing sun and sand with mountain adventures.

St. Kitts, officially known as Saint Christopher Island, is the larger of the two islands that make up the Caribbean country. Home to the capital city of Basseterre, the island is dotted with relics of its colonial past.

Nevis lies just across the Narrows from St. Kitts. The small island has some compelling historical attractions of its own, including the home in which American Founding Father Alexander Hamilton was born.

European influence in St. Kitts dates back to 1624, when Thomas Warner established a British colony on the island. Saint Kitts quickly became a center of sugar production, relying heavily on enslaved African labor. Its strategic location made it a focal point of conflict between European powers—particularly the British and French—throughout the 17th and 18th centuries.

In 1983, St. Kitts and Nevis gained full independence from Britain.

Today, the independent island nation is the smallest in the Western Hemisphere by both land area and population. It has an area of 101 square miles and just under 50,000 inhabitants.

Things to do in St. Kitts

On St. Kitts, you won’t find the uninterrupted stretches of powdery white sand that draw visitors to places like Anguilla, Saint Barths or Eleuthera. The beaches on the island have a mix of grey and tan sand that is often littered with seagrass.

Like Saba or Saint Lucia, much of the island’s appeal lies in its lush interior.

Nestled in its rolling green hills, St. Kitts contains a lovely mix of attractions—including a crater-topped mountain, old sugar estates, resplendent gardens,  and a UNESCO-listed fortress that showcase stunning views of the island’s coastline.

Visit Cockleshell Beach

Cockleshell Beach, located on the southern tip of St. Kitts, is one of the island’s most popular stretches of sand. The beach boasts soft white sand, turquoise waters, and views of neighboring Nevis.

When we visited Cockleshell Beach, we found it to be almost completely tourist-free. A boat full of locals joined us for a bit, but we otherwise enjoyed the stretch of sand completely to ourselves. Cockleshell’s calm waters and fine powdery sand were perfect for our toddler.

We agreed that Cockleshell Beach was quite nice overall, but it couldn’t really compare to the Caribbean’s best—places like Trunk Bay in the St John USVI, or North Beach on Spanish Wells.

Stop at the Timothy Hill Overlook

Timothy Hill Overlook, perched along the southeastern peninsula of St. Kitts, offers one of the island’s most iconic panoramic vistas. The viewpoint lies just south of Frigate Bay, on a narrow strip of land that links St. George Basseterre Parish with the country’s larger population centers.

From the hilltop lookout, you can witness the striking contrast between the calm, turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea and the more rugged Atlantic Ocean.

The overlook also provides sweeping vistas of Frigate Bay, Friar’s Bay, and the neighboring island of Nevis in the distance.

Ride the St. Kitts Scenic Railway

The Scenic Railway in St. Kitts is known as the “Last Railway in the West Indies.” The historic narrow-gauge train, once a vehicle for transporting sugar cane across the island, is now one of the country’s prime tourist attractions. The train’s open-air double-decker cars showcase panoramic views of the coastline and mountains. Tours come complete with a knowledgeable guide and complimentary drinks.

Since we were renting a car and planned on exploring the island independently, we chose not to fork over $100+ per person for train tickets.

Despite the hefty price tag, I imagine that the train tour would be ideal for cruise ship passengers or travelers with limited time on the island.

Visit the Brimstone Hill Fortress Park

The Brimstone Hill Fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best preserved historical fortifications in the Americas. It was designed by British military engineers and built by enslaved Africans.

The sprawling complex dates back to the 17th century. It sits atop a limestone hilltop that soars 800 ft above sea level.

The setting of the archaeological site is a large part of its appeal. From the castle walls, you can spot St. Eustatius in the distance, jutting out of the sapphire sea.

If you turn around 180 degrees, you have an up-close vantage point of the island’s lush interior.

The fortress is open daily from 9:30am-5:30pm. Entering the national park costs $15 per person.

Visit Rodney manor and Caribelle Batik

Rodney Manor is a historic estate that dates back to the 17th century. It is part of the larger Wingfield Estate, which once functioned as a sugar plantation.

The grounds of the estate are beautifully landscaped and bursting with lush foliage and colorful flowers. Ruined remnants of an old sugar mill lie scattered about the property.

Today, most tourists visit Romney Manor in order to shop at Caribelle Batik—a business that has produced and sold batiks since the 1970s.

Artisans at Caribelle use traditional Indonesian batik techniques to decorate fabric with Caribbean-inspired motifs.

On the manor grounds, a lovely shop sells batik textiles, clothing, handbags, and souvenirs. You can watch live demonstrations of the batik-dying process at the store’s entrance.

Visit the Wingfield Estate

The Wingfield Estate is a defunct sugar plantation near Romney Manor. One of the oldest sugar plantations in the Caribbean, it dates back to the early 17th century. The grandfather of former U.S. President Thomas Jefferson was the plantation’s original owner.

Today, the remnants of the estate—including a well-preserved aqueduct, mill, and rum distillery—stand as a testament to the island’s long and complex history of sugar production and colonial influence.

On the grounds of the Wingfield Estate, you can freely explore ruins and learn about the techniques used in sugar and rum production during the plantation era.

Informational displays and placards help bring the ruins to life.

Hike Mount Liamuiga

In the indigenous Kalinago language, Liamuiga translates to “fertile isle.”

Though the dual-island country of St. Kitts now goes by its official anglicized name, the island’s tallest mountain and main geographical feature still uses the original name.

Mount Liamuiga, standing at 3,792 ft, is the highest peak in the Leeward Islands (an archipelago in the northern Antilles that extends from the U.S. Virgin Islands to Guadeloupe). A strenuous 4-mile round-trip trail leads to a cloud forest at the summit of the dormant stratovolcano.

The path up Mount Liamuiga is quite steep and muddy in some sections. We didn’t have problems ascending while Dan carried our 2.5-year-old in the hiking pack and I was 20 weeks pregnant, but we still found the hike more demanding than expected. On the trail, we encountered steep inclines and sections that required scrambling over rocks and exposed tree roots.

Though we hiked the mountain independently and had no issues, a vast majority of other hikers we encountered were accompanied by guides.

Visit South Frigate Bay

Many of the best restaurants in St. Kitts can be found on the bustling stretch of beachfront at South Frigate Bay. It isn’t the most beautiful stretch of sand in the Caribbean by any means, but the beach is packed with bars and eateries. If you’re in search of nightlife, this is the place to be.

South Friar’s Bay

South Friar’s Bay offers a stretch of golden sand and views of the island’s unspoiled coastline. Lined by lush vegetation and lacking beachfront development, it is a nice place to relax for a few hours.

At the north end of the beach, you’ll find the upscale Carambola Beach Club. At the south end, a gravel road takes you to the rustic Shipwreck Beach Bar.

We enjoyed a meal at Shipwreck followed by a few hours of hanging out on the beach.

Look for Vervet Monkeys

The green vervet monkeys on St. Kitts took us completely by surprise.

Originally brought to the island by French settlers in the 17th century—likely as pets or companions—the monkeys have since flourished in the wild.

Today, their population is estimated to rival or even exceed that of the island’s human population.

As we drove around the island, we found monkeys roaming the countryside, darting across roads, and searching for food scraps near restaurants.

Though not a native species, the green vervet monkeys are an integral part of St. Kitts’ ecosystem and cultural identity.

Things to Do on Nevis

The island of Nevis has a sleepy atmosphere that distinguishes it from its bigger and busier neighbor. The absence of a cruise dock or major airport (the Nevis airport only serves a few intra-Caribbean destinations) makes Nevis feel somewhat undiscovered despite its historical importance.

Nevis’s beaches are modest by Caribbean standards, and its attractions are somewhat understated.

But whether Nevis is your primary destination or a day trip from St. Kitts, you’ll find plenty to do to keep you occupied. The tiny island is home to historical monuments, gardens, beaches, and hot springs.

We traveled to Nevis as a day trip but could have easily spent a few days on the island.

Visit the Birthplace of Alexander Hamilton

Alexander Hamilton, one of the Founding Fathers of the United States, was born on Nevis Island in the 18th century. At the time, Nevis was a bustling center of sugar production, and its capital, Charlestown, served as a key port in the British West Indies.

Hamilton’s early childhood was marked by financial hardship and instability. After the death of his mother when he was 13, Hamilton began working for a trading company based on the island of St. Croix. His remarkable writing skills and sharp intellect drew the attention of local leaders, who raised money to send him to the American colonies.

Hamilton attended King’s College (now Columbia University). From there, he got involved in revolutionary politics and later played a key role in founding the U.S. financial system.

Today, the Museum of Nevis History occupies Hamilton’s birthplace. The building, a modest two-story Georgian-style stone structure in Charlestown, has been reconstructed after damage from past hurricanes.

The site serves as a cultural and historical monument, housing exhibits on Nevisian heritage and Hamilton’s early life.

Pinneys Beach

The longest and most beautiful beach on Nevis, Pinney’s Beach is a four-kilometer stretch of gray-gold sand. Though it is a strong contender for the best beach in St. Kitts and Nevis and is home to the luxurious Four Seasons Resort, Pinney’s Beach still retains a rustic charm. Lush vegetation abuts the stretch of sand, while Mount Nevis towers in the background.

You’ll find a handful of beach bars, restaurants, and hotels along Pinney’s Beach, but the atmosphere is remarkably laid-back. We found the beach spacious, uncrowded, clean, and ideal for swimming.

Lover’s Beach

Lover’s Beach is a secluded stretch of sand that lies tucked away on the island’s northern coastline. The beach is backed by lush vegetation and offers sweeping views of the Caribbean Sea and St. Kitts.

With its whitish sand and lack of development, Lover’s Beach is well worth a stop on a round-the-island drive.

I’d prioritize Pinney’s Beach or Oualie Beach if you’re looking to do some swimming or beach lounging, but Lover’s Beach gets the scenic edge due to its white sand and views of St. Kitts.

Saint Thomas Anglican Church

Built in 1643, St. Thomas is the oldest active Anglican church in the Caribbean. The church lies right along the island’s main ring road, just outside Charlestown.

The structure’s simple yet elegant design includes arched windows, a modest bell tower, and a setting overlooking the sea.

One gravesite in the church cemetery belongs to Samuel Jefferson, believed to be the great-great-great-grandfather of US President Thomas Jefferson.

The Cottle Church

Now a ruined structure surrounded by greenery, the Cottle Church is one of the island’s most poignant historical landmarks.

Built by Thomas Cottle in 1820, the church was remarkable for its time because it was designed for enslaved people and their owners to worship together—a radical idea during the era of slavery.

After Thomas Cottle’s death in 1828, the church became abandoned and fell into disrepair.

It remains one of the island’s main historical attractions.

Nevis Botanical Garden

The Nevis Botanical Garden is among the top places to visit on Nevis. Spread across eight beautifully landscaped acres, the gardens showcase an assortment of tropical plants. Meandering pathways lead visitors past fountains, sculptures, and ponds filled with water lilies.

I’d read wonderful things about the tropical garden and its diverse array of lush flora before my arrival on Nevis.

Unfortunately, when we reached the garden gates, we found that they were locked. I had somehow failed to realize that the garden is closed to visitors on Thursdays.

Nevis Hot Springs

Nevis’s geothermal springs, rich in minerals and naturally heated by volcanic activity from Nevis Peak, have been cherished for centuries for their soothing and therapeutic properties. The water emerges from the ground at around 108°F and flows into shallow stone pools where visitors can relax and soak.

Once frequented by European settlers and naval officers in the 18th and 19th centuries, the springs were part of the historic Bath Hotel, one of the Caribbean’s earliest luxury resorts and spa destinations.

The springs are free to visit and fairly small.

Nevis Peak

Nevis Peak is the island’s centerpiece. The dormant volcano towers 3,232 ft above sea level and dominates the island’s landscape.

Hikers and nature lovers are drawn to the mountain’s lush rainforest vegetation and panoramic views of St. Kitts.

We chose not to summit Nevis Peak due to time constraints and the fact that we were traveling with a young toddler. Our onward travel plans already included three island summits, and we didn’t feel particularly keen on adding a fourth to our itinerary.

Where to Stay in St. Kitts and Nevis

We used St. Kitts as our home base when traveling around the twin islands. Saint Kitts and Nevis is a small enough country that you can easily tour its most popular attractions regardless of where you choose to stay.

Ultimately, it just comes down to preference and price point.

St Kitts Accommodation

We stayed at the Koi Resort by Hilton in St. Kitts for six nights. At the time of our booking, the resort was one of the more affordable hotel options on the island. We found it to be a great value for money. The Koi is a step down from the St Kitts Mariott and a good midrange option.

The Park Hyatt in St Kitts is the island’s most luxurious accommodation. We met a couple who was staying there during our hike up Mt Liamuiga. They had nothing but good things to say about the property.

Nevis Accommodation

The Four Seasons Resort in Nevis sits on beautiful Pinney’s Beach, at the base of the Nevis Volcano. It is the most luxurious accommodation in Nevis.

There are a handful of other noteworthy places to stay in Nevis at a friendlier price point. Among them, the Mount Nevis Hotel, the Montpelier Plantation, and the Hermitage Inn.

Getting to St. Kitts and Nevis

The airport on St. Kitts welcomes flights from destinations throughout the Caribbean, the U.S., and Canada. In addition to linking St. Kitts with cities in North America, the airport serves one direct flight to the British Isles.

The smaller Nevis airport has flights to destinations within the Caribbean. You can fly between the islands of St. Kitts and Nevis on Cape Air.

In addition to flying, you can access St Kitts and Nevis by cruise ship or passenger ferry.

The Makana Ferry connects St. Kitts with St. Eustatius multiple times a week (check the website for an updated timetable). The ferry travels onward from St Eustatius to Saba and St Martin.

When to Visit St Kitts and Nevis

Like most of the Caribbean, St. Kitts has warm and sunny weather year-round. The best time to visit St. Kitts is generally from December to April, when the weather is warm, dry, and sunny—perfect for beach days, hiking, and sightseeing.

If you prefer fewer crowds and better deals, consider visiting during the shoulder months of May and November. The weather remains pleasant, with only occasional rain shower.

The Atlantic hurricane season in St. Kitts and Nevis runs from June through November, but direct hits are rare, and most days are still sunny and enjoyable.

We visited St. Kitts in May and had wonderful weather for the duration of our week-long stay.

****

Each Caribbean island has a unique flavor. Some islands boast long sandy beaches lined with condos and all-inclusive resorts. Others have seldom-visited coastlines and jungle interiors that are practically begging to be explored. Some islands are known for their nightlife and festivals; others cater to honeymooners or families with young children.

The dual-island nation of St. Kitts and Nevis strikes a delicate balance. It has both ample tourism amenities and decent infrastructure while retaining its own laid-back charm and distinct local flavor.

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Harbour Island measures three miles in length and about half a mile in width. A mere dot on the map, it lies just off the coast of untamed Eleuthera, in the remote Out Islands of the Bahamas.

Despite its relative isolation and easygoing vibe, the wee Caribbean gem packs a lot of glitz and glamour into its five-square-mile footprint. The sliver of land—fondly known as “Briland” by locals—has ended up in the luxury travel spotlight.

With its impossibly clear waters and delicate pink sand, Harbour Island is a tiny coral speck in a scintillating blue sea.

HARBOUR ISLAND: OLDEST SETTLEMENT IN THE BAHAMAS

Harbour Island boasts quaint colorful streets, tasty conch restaurants, and one of the world’s most renowned beaches. The coral-rimmed island lies within the embrace of Eleuthera—a long narrow strip of land worthy of off-the-beaten-path exploration.

European history in Eleuthera and its sister islands dates back to 1650, when a group of loyalists were fleeing persecution in Britain. They shipwrecked off a reef named Devil’s Backbone and landed on the area’s main island. They called the island Eleutheria, the Greek word for freedom.

Eventually, though the vast majority of refugees settled in Spanish Wells, some ended up in Harbour Island.

These settlers established an independent government and settlement on the island that lasted for nearly 70 years— from the time the Puritans landed in 1650 to when Harbour Island surrendered its rights to the British Crown in 1717.

Eleuthera, Harbour Island and nearby Spanish Wells are each unique in their own way.

And yet, while they are wildly different with regards to tourist amenities, they are inextricably bounded to one another by history and proximity.

DUNMORE TOWN

Dunmore Town, the only community on the island, is a charming church-filled village that exudes New-England-style charm. Named after the island’s governor between 1786-1797, is one of the oldest settlements in the Bahamas.

Dunmore Town is home to pretty colonial-style clapboard houses adorned with lush plants and bougainvillea. The colorful architecture blends beautifully with the island’s surrounding nature and laid-back aesthetic.

In the late 1800s, Dunmore was known for its ship building and sugar refinement. It was not until the 1950s that the picturesque community gained renown as a vacation destination among exclusive crowds.

Today, it draws some of the wealthiest vacationers from around the world.

And yet, while it may be a favorite getaway destination for the rich and famous, the laid-back village is both idyllic and unpretentious. Its colorful buildings hide behind lush vegetation and remain somewhat understated, despite the island’s exorbitant prices.

THE FAMOUS PINK SAND BEACH

While Dunmore Town’s streets have plenty of photo-worthy nooks and crannies, the colorful urban center is not the main reason that Harbour Island has garnered such high praise. The island’s widespread appeal is entirely due to its most striking natural feature—the shimmering pink sand beach.

The beach stretches the entire length of the island and is the focal point around which everything on the blip of land revolves.

The Pink Beach’s rosy glow is a result of finely pulverized coral. It has been called the world’s most beautiful beach by a slew of international publications.

And Dan and I could certainly see why. It joins the ranks of Shoal Bay in Anguilla and Trunk Bay in St John.

WHERE TO STAY ON HARBOUR ISLAND

Our Harbour Island lodging experience was a bit out of the ordinary. As budget-conscious travelers, Dan and I booked the cheapest room we could find at the Tingum Village Hotel.

However, when the staff had double booked our room, a bout of anniversary luck landed us an upgrade. Somehow, we were able to celebrate Dan’s birthday and our one year of marriage at the luxurious Secret Kiss Villa.

Of course, renting out an oversized five bedroom villa is probably not an option for many.

But fortunately, the small island has plenty of places to stay, as long as you’re willing to shell out some cash.

Harbour Island attracts high end luxury travelers. Its hotels range from expensive to extravagant. Some of the most popular island accommodations include the Coral Sands Hotel, the Dunmore Hotel, and Valentine’s Resort.

WHERE TO EAT ON HARBOUR ISLAND

Dan and I ate at some wonderful places during our stay on Harbour Island. We enjoyed delicious smoothies at the Sweet Spot Cafe, filled up on bread at Arthur’s Bakery, and ate a delectable seafood dinner at Queen Conch.

If you’re traveling on a shoestring, Ma Ruby’s cooks up some of the island’s most budget-conscious fare. Dan and I didn’t get to taste the restaurant’s highly-touted burgers,  but we very much enjoyed our order of conch fritters.

Additionally, we heard great things about the food at Sip Sip Restaurant. Unfortunately, however, the restaurant was temporarily closed during our visit.

HARBOUR ISLAND TRANSPORTATION

Harbour Island’s special character can be attributed thanks, in large part, to the fact that the island does not house commercial airports or cruise docks. It embodies a form of isolation that inhabitants and tourists enjoy.

GETTING TO HARBOUR ISLAND:

The easiest way to reach Harbour Island is via neighboring Eleuthera. Routes connect Nassau and the southern United States with the North Eleuthera Airport. From the airport, $5 taxis run the mile-long length of road to the ferry dock. Water shuttles to the Harbour Island marina cost an additional $5 per person.

GETTING AROUND:

Like Spanish Wells, Harbour Island is so tiny that renting a car serves no purpose. In fact, I believe the island outright prohibits tourists from driving rental vehicles.

Most travelers opt for golf cart rentals instead. Golf carts are ubiquitous on Harbour Island and cost roughly $50 per day.

Dan and I opted out of renting a golf cart, despite the 20 minute walk from our accommodation to the ferry dock. We simply viewed it as an unnecessary expense on an island where costs add up quickly.

Though getting around by golf cart is most convenient, we were happy with our money-saving strategy. Distances on the island are short. And reaching the Pink Sand Beach from the ferry dock only requires a ten minute journey on foot.

*****

Harbour Island’s blush-colored beach certainly draws a lot of fanfare and praise from media outlets the world over.

As a result, our expectations before visiting were quite high.

They were so high, in fact, that we weren’t sure if the island could possibly live up to the hype.

But we’re pleased to say that it did not disappoint.

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Eleuthera Island fans out over the Caribbean’s waters like a loose ribbon on a blue and turquoise quilt. A long skinny island in the Bahamas, it measures over 100 miles in length, while never reaching more than a few miles in width.

The scenic island is one of over 700 land masses that make up the Bahamas Archipelago. Its serpentine shape conceals coves and windswept beaches that are some of the most beautiful in all of the Caribbean.

Eleuthera Island Attractions

Though Eleuthera’s beaches are marvelous, the island contains a variety of tourist attractions that are perfect for thrill-seekers. From caves to sinkholes to natural soaking pools, Eleuthera’s must-see destinations make it one of the most scenic islands in North America.

Perhaps more than any other island I’ve yet experienced in the Caribbean, Eleuthera welcomes the adventurous spirit. It is rugged and remote and a far cry from the region’s typical manicured tourist hot spots. Reaching some of Eleuthera’s top attractions requires patience, a 4×4 vehicle, and a sense of adventure.

Best Eleuthera Beaches

Eleuthera has no shortage of beaches. And with over 165 sandy shores, finding a favorite is not always easy.

The skinny island lies at the convergence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Bight of Eleuthera. On the west side of the island, the shoreline showcases a calm and shallow sea. Along Eleuthera’s eastern edge, coral pink sands meet cobalt waters and pounding surf.

Over the course of a week, Dan and I discovered many of Eleuthera’s top beaches

While our limited stay did not grant us the opportunity to set foot on each of the island’s idyllic waterside stretches, it allowed us plenty of time to explore the skinny ribbon of land from top to bottom.

French Leave Beach

Eleuthera’s French Leave Beach owes its name to the old Club Med Resort that once stood on its shores. Its unspoiled pink sand extends out over a mile and is flanked by dense green shrubbery.

The beach is among the most popular with visitors because of its convenient location near Governor’s Harbour. It is home to Tippy’s—a waterside restaurant and bar that dishes up fantastic conch fritters and piña coladas.

Despite being one of the top places to see on Eleuthera, solitude-seekers will rejoice in the beach’s lonely stretches of windswept sand.

Surfer’s Beach

Surfer’s Beach lies at the end of a narrow potholed road, on the island’s Atlantic side. It is located between the townships of Hatchet Bay and Gregory Town, in north-central Eleuthera. Thanks to gusty Southwest winds that blow breaks in from the Atlantic, it is one of the most renowned surfing areas in The Bahamas.

Dan and I didn’t get the opportunity to watch surfers during our visit to the wave-pounded beach. Yet I hear that the high season—between October and April—boasts some of the Caribbean’s best breaks.

Gaulding Beach and Cay

Gaulding Beach is a popular swimming spot located near Gregory Town, across the road from Daddy Joe’s Restaurant.

At low tide, the water is so shallow that one can practically walk to Gaulding Cay—a small islet with a hat of trees.

Though many pointed us toward Gaulding Cay for sea life, Dan and I didn’t have much success with snorkeling in the area.

Ten Bay Beach

Ten Bay Beach showcases tranquil waters and soft golden sands. It is among the calmest swimming beaches on the island due to its location along the Bight of Eleuthera.

Large casuarina and palm trees line the shores of the beach—providing shade from the hot sun. The abundant shade and perfectly-spaced trees make it a wonderful place to relax on a hammock for the day.

Ten Bay Beach’s calm protected water is warm and gentle. During low tide, I was able to walk out quite far before the water reached my knees.

Winding Bay

Winding Bay is a wonderful four-kilometer beach offering secluded views and pristine sand. Its shoreline consists of two semicircular beaches that are largely flanked by natural vegetation. A line of trees separates the beach from the road.

Due to algae and sharp rocks, Winding Bay is poorly suitable for snorkeling.

But nevertheless, Dan and I saw a shark and stingray swimming through the area’s shallow water.

Lighthouse Beach

Visiting Lighthouse Beach is, without a doubt, the top thing to do on Eleuthera. This hidden gem teeters at the southernmost point of the island, where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean. Its luxurious pink sands rival the world-renowned expanse on nearby Harbour Island.

Lighthouse Beach lies nestled in the bosom of a massive rock structure, behind a thicket of forest and dunes.

Reaching Lighthouse Beach requires a 4×4 vehicle and the ability to negotiate massive potholes. It is not for those who desire amenities and easy access.

Unfortunately, the best beach in Eleuthera is not slated to remain unspoiled for long. Disney Cruises bought up the large tract of land and is in the process of surveying the area for development.

Soon, Lighthouse Beach will be a cruise ship port that rests at odds with the island’s rugged and untamed nature. It will no longer be a quiet stretch of paradise for lovers of wild and off-the-beaten-path locales.

I’m grateful that I visited Lighthouse Beach when I did. For now at least, the beach is proof that, sometimes, the roughest journeys reap the best rewards.

Other Things to Do on Eleuthera

It’s true. Eleuthera’s beaches are magic.

But there are other things to do on Eleuthera that don’t involve sand and sea.

The ribbon-like island is covered in a dense carpet of forest that conceals jewel-like sinkholes and maze-like caves. During our visit to Eleuthera, Dan and I relished many of the area’s unique geological offerings.

Explore Preacher’s Cave

Preacher’s Cave is both a historical and geological landmark. Its recorded human history dates back to the 1600s, when a group of English Puritans—known as the Eleutheran Adventurers—sailed from Bermuda in search of religious freedom. After shipwrecking on a reef called Devil’s Backbone, they found refuge in Preacher’s Cave.

As well as being a safe haven, the cavern transformed into a house of worship. The adventurers conducted the island’s first religious service from an alter-shaped rock at the far end of the cave (hence, the landmark’s name).

Today, many descendants of the Eleutheran Adventurers reside in Spanish Wells.

A delightful sandy beach lies across the parking area from Preacher’s Cave. The beach hides behind a thicket of greenery that contains some picnic tables and benches.

Jump into the Blue Hole

Eleuthera’s sapphire-colored sinkhole is located on the Northern part of the island, within walking distance of Preacher’s Cave. It lies nestled amongst a tapestry of verdant trees, like a sapphire jewel in an emerald ocean.

The Blue Hole is the most renowned of Eleuthera’s many sinkholes. It is a popular spot for swimming, photography, and cliff jumping.

A platform along the edge of the sinkhole entices adventure-seekers to dive into the salty inland lake.

Admire the Glass Window

The Glass window is Eleuthera’s most defining feature. A narrow strip of land and road that connects Gregory Town and Lower Bogue, the window measures just 30 feet wide at its narrowest point.

While one can witness the area’s amazing colors from behind the wheel of a moving car, it is worth pulling to the roadside to admire the view. The eastern side of the narrow highway showcases the indigo waters of the Atlantic Ocean, while the western side reveals the Bight of Eleuthera’s calm turquoise waters.

To make the most of the area’s beauty, Dan and I hiked around the sharp rocks and peered over the sheer cliffs.

The varied ocean shades were mesmerizing.

Soak in the Queen’s Baths

The Queen’s Baths are a collection of natural pools that border the rugged Atlantic side of Eleuthera. They lie just south of the Glass Window Bridge, amidst a rugged area of sharp rock outcroppings.

Over the years, the Queen’s Baths tidal pools formed thanks to continual erosion of rocks from the crashing Atlantic waves. Ocean waves pour over the lip of the pools during high tide and fill the tubs with water. Once settled, the sun warms the crystal clear water, creating a bath-like temperature that is perfect for soaking.

Beware of stepping on the urchins and sea snails that blanket the walls and floor of the hot tubs.

While the Queen’s Baths are a major Eleuthera highlight, the area can only be visited safely during low tide. At high tide, the pools often fill up quickly and forcefully.

Explore Cathedral Cave

Cathedral Cave—also commonly known as Spider Rock Cave because of the thick webs that cling to its walls— is an underground cavern near Rock Sound. The unassuming cavern is straight out of Indiana Jones. Tree roots force their way through cracks in the cave ceiling and giant palm-sized spiders create webs that drip from the rock walls like melted ice cream.

Though Cathedral Cave is a known landmark on Google Maps, it can be difficult to find. The best access point is via a small path across from the white Anglican Church on Sherman’s Highway. The trail to the cave passes by Boiling Hole—an attraction with similar geology to the Sapphire Blue Hole and Ocean Hole.

Where to Stay on Eleuthera Island

Though we split our time between Gregory Town and Rock Sound, most hotels and resorts in Eleuthera cluster near Governor’s Harbour.  The island’s accommodation options range from basic beachside cottages to opulent resorts.

Admittedly, we didn’t stay in an established hotel while on Eleuthera. But from my research, I gathered that the island’s most highly-rated places include La Bougainvillea, Mika’s Resort, and the spendy yet luxurious French Leave Resort.

Dan and I chose to rent Airbnbs for the duration of our Eleuthera vacation. Airbnb provides a wide range of lodging options on the island.

Best Places to Eat in Eleuthera

There is little respite from high prices on Eleuthera. And food is no exception. It was difficult for Dan and I to adjust to the inflated costs of everything from groceries to sit-down meals.

While on the island, we hoped to save some money by stocking up on ingredients at a grocery store. But we found the prices to be so exorbitant that we left empty-handed.

In order to cut back on costs, we enjoyed fruit and fresh baked bread from the Eleuthera Farm and tasty lunch wraps at Louis Delights (a popular local joint). Our favorite place to eat on Eleuthera was the reasonably priced and delicious Snack Shack in Gregory Town.

After 4pm, Eleuthera’s cheaper options all but disappeared and we had no option but to splurge. Our favorite places to eat dinner included Daddy Joe’s in Gregory Town and Wild Orchid’s Restaurant in Rock Sound.

****

Eleuthera is an off-the-beaten-path destination with no shortage of notable places to see. Its plethora of sandy beaches and hidden treasures are among the region’s most enticing.

Yet somehow, despite boasting some of the best beaches in the Bahamas, the skinny island remains wild and untamed. It is a perfect reminder that the Caribbean is about more than all-inclusive resorts and overdeveloped beachfronts.

At least for now.

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Soft powdery sands. Pristine pool-like waters. Idyllic shores that consistently rank among the best in the world.  

Welcome to the Bahamas: an unparalleled destination for beach-lovers.

The jewel-like Bahamas caters to honeymooners, cruise-ship tourists, and sailing-enthusiasts. The country consists of over 700 islands—many of them uninhabited—that lie scattered about the Caribbean Sea. 

Each of these islands has its own flavor, its own history, and its own reasons for visiting. 

And yet few have as interesting a history as St George’s Cay—a fleck of sand off Eleuthera that is home to Spanish Wells. 

SPANISH WELLS ON ST GEORGE’S CAY

While development has transformed much of the Caribbean into a Disneyland of sorts, Spanish Wells seems to have changed little since the early days of European settlement.

The offbeat community lies off the coast of Eleuthera, in the remote Out Islands of the Bahamas. Visiting is like stepping back in time, to another world.

Spanish Wells has a settler history that dates back to the 1600s, when a group of English Puritans—known as the Eleutheran Adventurers—sailed from Bermuda in search of religious freedom. After shipwrecking on a reef called Devil’s Backbone, they found refuge in a cave on nearby Eleuthera.

Eventually, the majority of the Loyalists settled in Spanish Wells and established a community that has survived for nearly 400 years. To this day, their close-knit band of descendants remains incredibly religious and insular. 

As a result, Spanish Wells does not fit the typical demographic makeup of the Bahamas. The island is home to a population of about 1,500 mostly white settlers of European descent. Almost everyone shares a handful of last names and can trace their ancestry to the Eleutheran Adventurers. 

Though tourism is a major industry in the Bahamas, Spanish Wells isn’t an overwhelmingly touristy place. The abundance of lucrative spiny lobsters has enabled locals to eschew fast-paced development in favor of maintaining the centuries-old way of life. 

Thanks to the bounty of the sea, Spanish Wells does not have to depend on tourist dollars. Many of the island’s current residents have reaped enormous financial rewards from the lobster-fishing industry. 

This concentrated wealth has led some to refer to St George’s Cay as the ‘Nantucket of the Caribbean.’ 

GETTING TO ST GEORGE’S CAY

Spanish Wells’  remote location makes it relatively difficult to reach. Saint George’s Cay does not contain an airport, a cruise ship dock, or infrastructure suitable for mass tourism.

From the North Eleuthera airport, reaching Spanish Wells consists of a 20 minute taxi ride to Genes Bay, followed by a 5 minute water taxi crossing to the community’s main dock. Transportation arrangements with Pinders Taxi Service cost $15 per person. 

GETTING AROUND SPANISH WELLS

Spanish Wells is tiny and easy to navigate. While some may choose to walk its grid-like streets, most travelers opt for a golf cart rental. Golf carts are ubiquitous in Spanish Wells and are a favorite way of getting around. The Harbourside Rental and Gift Shop near the water taxi dock rents out buggies for $40 per day. 

Our guesthouse near the ferry dock provided complementary golf carts during our stay in Spanish Wells. Having access to a golf cart allowed us to freely explore St George’s Cay and nearby Russel Island. 

Had Dan and I visited Spanish Wells as a day trip, however, we would have likely chosen our own two feet as a mode of transportation.

Distances in Spanish Wells are short. And reaching North Beach from the ferry dock only requires a few minutes’ walk. 

NORTH BEACH, SPANISH WELLS

Tourism in Spanish Wells centers almost entirely on North Beach—a dreamy stretch of sand that belongs on the front page of travel brochures. The beach is among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Its pristine white expanse is comparable to some of the Caribbean’s best beaches, including Shoal Bay in Anguilla and Playa Rincon in the Dominican Republic.

North Shore Beach runs the entire length of St George’s Cay and is easily accessible from all parts of the island. For being so pristine, Dan and I were amazed by the lack of crowds.

The North Shore beachfront does not contain high-rise hotels or restaurants or tacky souvenir stalls.  Though a smattering of homes and vacation rentals line its shore, the structures are mostly concealed behind a thicket of greenery. 

The water level at North Shore beach is exceptionally shallow. At low tide, Dan and I were able to walk out about a quarter mile without the water rising above our waists. 

During our visit, we enjoyed wading about the swimming-pool-colored waters and walking out to the area’s isolated sand bars. 

A ribbon of pure white sand juts out beyond North Beach’s shallow expanse of turquoise water. Walking out onto the sand bar at low tide is an absolutely magical experience. 

DAY TOURS FROM SPANISH WELLS

Spanish Wells is a hub for charter excursions around Eleuthera. If you’re able to shell out large sums of cash, there are a number of fishing and touring charters to choose from. These private tours frequently visit sand bars, reefs, and Pig Island (a locale famous for swimming pigs similar to those in the Exumas). 

Admittedly, we didn’t take advantage of day trips because we had a hard time justifying the high costs of chartering a boat. 

Had we found others with whom to split the costs, however, we would have been thrilled to explore Spanish Wells’ surroundings.

SPANISH WELLS HOTELS AND VACATION RENTALS

The tourism industry in Spanish Wells is not nearly as robust as that of nearby Harbour Island. Hotels are largely nonexistent, though guesthouses and Airbnbs have mushroomed in recent years. 

Dan and I booked a room at the Harbour Breeze Guesthouse through Airbnb. The guesthouse was reasonably priced and conveniently located near the ferry dock. It also provided free golf cart rentals. 

Online hotel booking sites have limited availability in Spanish Wells. If you’re planning on staying overnight on the island, I’d recommend looking into AirBnb and VRBO. 

WHERE TO EAT IN SPANISH WELLS

Spanish Wells boasts a handful of tasty (albeit overpriced) restaurants. The Shipyard—at the eastern tip of the island—is consistently regarded as the best place to eat on St George’s Cay. We enjoyed a fantastic meal at the Shipyard during our last night on the island. 

For a slightly cheaper option, Buddha’s Snack Shack provides a solid alternative. 

If you’re traveling to Spanish Wells on a weekend, be sure to double check restaurant hours. Most establishments shut down on Sundays. 

****

After a year of pent-up wanderlust due to the Coronavirus lockdowns, Dan and I traveled to the remote island of Spanish Wells in the Bahamas.

The island isn’t exactly everyone’s ideal vacation spot. There is little in the way of entertainment. There are no nightclubs or waterparks or large shopping centers. Until 2013, Spanish Wells even banned the sale of alcohol. 

But Dan and I wanted to avoid the overly-developed and commercialized islands that have become commonplace in the Caribbean. We wanted to visit a relaxing place that still felt a little stuck in time. 

So for us, Spanish Wells was perfect. 

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The tiny Caribbean island of St John is home to untouched wilderness and pristine landscapes. It is a fleck of emerald in a sapphire sea. A place where nature still rules supreme.  With its blanket of greenery, its idyllic beaches, and its translucent waters, the small territory is the most scenically endowed of the three main U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI).

St John wears a thick green cloak of gnarled trees and spiky cacti. These forested hillsides—part of a US Virgin Islands National Park—cover two thirds of the island’s surface.

Beyond its verdant interior, a series of crescent beaches lie strung about the island’s outer fringes. These sun-kissed St John beaches boast soft powdered sand and warm turquoise waters.

They are among the most beautiful in the Caribbean.

U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK

When visiting the National Park of the USVI, hiking and beach-lounging top most to-do lists. Trails wind by petroglyphs and sugar-mill ruins. Several lead to pristine beaches prime for swimming, snorkeling and soaking in the warm rays of the Caribbean sun.

In 1956, Laurance Rockefeller donated much of the land on St John to the U.S. National Park Service, under the condition that the land would remain protected from future development.  As a result, the shuttered Caneel Bay Resort—a popular accommodation that was ravaged by the hurricanes—is one of the only structures within the confines of the park. It operates on a lease arrangement with the National Park Service.

The USVI National Park Visitor’s Center lies in Cruz Bay, approximately two blocks from the ferry dock. The center holds informational placards and displays, distributes maps of the park’s beaches, and provides tourists with information on the top things to do in St John.

DISCOVERING THE BEST ST JOHN BEACHES

I traveled to St John to volunteer with All Hands and Hearts, in an effort to help the island with its recovery in the aftermath of Hurricanes Irma and Maria.

Though I visited the island primarily in order to assist with its rebuilding, I rewarded my long hours of physical work with afternoons at some of St John’s best beaches.

Each day, after mucking and gutting damaged houses for eight hours, my volunteer group and I would descend upon the island’s crescent shores for a refreshing dip in the sea.

Many of the most beautiful beaches in St John lie within the confines of the U.S. Virgin Islands National Park. They include Trunk Bay Beach, Cinnamon Bay Beach, and Hawksnest Bay.

• TRUNK BAY BEACH

Trunk Bay Beach is the most famous beach in St John. Over a quarter mile of brilliant white sand makes it the island’s showpiece attraction.

Trunk Bay’s clear waters and silky coral sands draw tourists in droves. The beach’s well-maintained facilities include chair rentals and showers.

While I found it to be crowded compared to the other beaches in St John, there is no doubt that Trunk Beach is special. Its crescent bay is worthy of postcards and a feature in Caribbean travel brochures. It is comparable to places like Shoal Bay Beach in Anguilla and Seven Mile Beach in Jamaica.

Trunk Bay Beach is considered the one of the finest beaches in the Caribbean. Yet, while its blissful shores are welcoming and inviting, the beach’s idyllic setting is what makes it truly unforgettable.

From the road that traverses the island’s national park, views of the brilliant white sand and its surrounding greenery are drop-dead gorgeous.

• CINNAMON BAY BEACH

While Trunk Bay Beach is the island’s standout, Cinnamon Beach doesn’t fall far behind.

The beach lies within the USVI National Park, sandwiched between Trunk Bay and Maho Bay. It is the largest beach on St John and, without a doubt, one of its best.

Mile-long Cinnamon Bay is a stunning stretch of sand. When I traveled to Cinnamon Beach in 2018, however, the area was still visibly devastated from the 2017 twin hurricanes that ripped through the area. Cinnamon Bay’s archaeological museum, campground, restaurant and water-sports facilities were all largely closed and roped off.

Prior to the hurricanes, Cinnamon Bay contained a resort and campground. These tourist accommodations suffered extensive damage from the storms.

As of now, they have yet to fully recover. The aim is to restore the area to its former glory by 2021.

• MAHO BEACH

Maho Bay Beach is a favorite among tourists and locals alike. The long and narrow beach sits adjacent to the North Shore Road.

Not only does Maho Beach contain beautiful white sand, but its convenience just off the roadside makes it the perfect St John beach for families and and those with limited mobility.

Maho Bay is purported to have some of the best snorkeling on St John. Tall sea grass—a magnet for green sea turtles—blankets the sandy floor of the bay.

Unfortunately, I failed to spot any marine animals when I visited the area for a brief afternoon snorkel.

• HAWKSNEST BEACH

Hawknest Beach, another scenic stretch of sand in the USVI National Park, has gorgeous clear water and a pretty shoreline. It lies sandwiched between Caneel Bay and Honeymoon Bay, just a few minutes away from the St John ferry dock.

Hawksnest’s proximity to the town of Cruz Bay makes it a popular spot. But in no way did I feel the beach was overrun.

In fact, I found Hawksnest Beach to be relatively quiet when I visited.

Situated within a concealed bay, it has a more intimate setting than some of the island’s other stretches of sand. Its powdery shores contain plenty of shaded areas.

• HONEYMOON BEACH

Honeymoon Beach is smaller and less crowded than the other top beaches in St John. Located adjacent to the Caneel Bay Resort, it consists of a small crescent of sand and crystalline waters.

I can only surmise that the lack of crowds I encountered at Honeymoon Beach was, in large part, due to the fact that I visited while the adjacent resort remained closed.

The Lind Point trail connects Honeymoon Beach with the Virgin Islands National Park Visitor Center in Cruz Bay. It is a lovely path that passes by Salomon Beach and reveals panoramas of Cruz Bay from above.

At night, the waters of Honeymoon Beach sparkle with bioluminescence. Millions of plankton puncture the darkness with their luminous glow. It is otherworldly. Enchanting.

Due to its proximity to our volunteer lodging, I visited Honeymoon Beach nearly every evening during my stay on St John. And each night, without fail, bioluminescent plankton illuminated the night—littering the waters with millions of tiny pinpricks of light.

• LEINSTER BAY AND WATERLEMON CAY

Leinster Bay lies just north of Coral Bay, on the eastern side of St John Island. The bay connects to the Annaberg mill ruins via a narrow path. Some of St John’s best snorkeling can be found at Leinster Bay’s east end, near Waterlemon Cay.

The walk from the sugar mill ruins to the beach takes about 25 minutes.

Before heading down to the small beach areas of Leinster Bay, it is worth checking out the ruins of the sugar plantation. This small historical attraction features the most intact plantation ruins in the U.S. Virgin Islands. A 30-minute self-directed walking tour leads through the site’s slave quarters, towers, and dungeon.

Like Maho Beach, Leinster Bay contains tall sea grasses that attract turtles, spotted eagle rays, barracudas and nurse sharks. Though the reef was still partially destroyed by the hurricane during my visit, I was nonetheless able admire the colorful coral and schools of fish that adorn St John’s premier underwater paradise.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE USVI

St John is small enough that you can encircle the island in a matter of hours. Its two main settlements are located on opposite ends of the island—in Cruz Bay and Coral Bay.

Cruz Bay is the larger and more vibrant of the two towns. It is home to the ferry dock, rental car companies and the national park visitor center. Many tourists choose to stay in Cruz Bay due to its plentiful food and lodging options. Coral Bay may appeal to those looking to stay in the heart of the USVI National Park.

Top-rated accommodation options in St John include the Gallows Point Resort (Cruz Bay), the Calichi at Picture Point (Coral Bay) and the Concorida Eco-Resort (at the island’s easternmost tip).

WHEN TO VISIT THE USVI

During the the USVI’s peak season, from December to March, pleasant temperatures hover around 80 degrees during the day. Winter holidays, however, mean that resorts and hotels adjust their rates to profit on high demand.

The best time to visit the U.S. Virgin Islands is from April to June. During the springtime, visitors can expect mild weather, little rainfall, and thinner crowds.

Summer months mean lower rates on accommodation. But be aware that from July-November, visiting the USVI comes with the risk of heavy rains and hurricanes.

***

St John may be part of the United States, but its Caribbean location blesses it with tropical beauty and island charm. The idyllic fleck of land showcases landscapes comparable to those of St Lucia and Saba, and beaches that rival some of the most beautiful in the Caribbean.

I could tell St John was special from the moment I set foot on its soil. There are no airports or cruise docks on the island. Instead of eyesore resorts and manicured lawns, leafy trees caress the island’s shores. The small US territory is a bastion of authenticity in a region that often favors multinational hotel chains and luxury resorts. It is intimate, idyllic, and dripping in beauty.

St John is blissfully low-key and crowd-free.

Both travelers and locals would like to keep it that way.

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Ever since I became a flight attendant and began flying standby, I’d dreamed of showing up at an airport, checking the departure board, and choosing a destination based on availability. So over a long Thanksgiving weekend in November, Dan and I did just that; we packed our bags, headed to Atlanta and found ourselves on a flight to Montego Bay, Jamaica, a mere seven hours later.

Like its Caribbean neighbors, Jamaica is known for its turquoise water, its pure white sand and its balmy weather. It is an island paradise, where sun-seekers and beach-goers flock in winter months to escape the northern cold. Jamaica is a place of postcard-perfect dreams. It is a land where palms sway gently to the beat of Afro-Caribbean music and aromas of fragrant spices fill the air.

BUDGET WEEKEND GETAWAY IN JAMAICA

Jamaica is a popular honeymoon destination that has marketed itself as an all-inclusive getaway. As with nearby St Maarten and St Lucia, high-end resorts litter the island and cater to wealthy travelers.

Yet, despite the promotion of luxury travel in Jamaica, the tropical island has all the key ingredients of a budget holiday destination. During my long weekend in Negril and Montego Bay, I found that traveling to Jamaica on a budget is not only possible, but it is also relatively easy.

In fact, Jamaica is one of the cheapest islands in the Caribbean. A smattering of guesthouses and hostels abound, local food is delicious, and and a comprehensive bus system links the island’s larger towns.

BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS NEAR NEGRIL

Dan and I spent three full days in Jamaica, excluding travel time. For the first two nights of our vacation, we stayed at the Westender Inn outside of Negril. The hotel sits above a series of rocky cliffs, past the popular Rick’s Cafe. For two nights, we were able to enjoy luxurious Caribbean living at an inexpensive price. Our hotel cost us $60 per night. Complete with a small landscaped garden, free shuttle service to Seven Mile Beach, an oceanside bar and three infinity pools, our hotel gave Dan and I the illusion of an exclusive beach vacation.

For our third night in Negril, we chose to stay at the Roots Cafe Rooms on Seven Mile Beach. Facing a stretch of sparkling sand, the Roots Cafe offers basic oceanside bungalows at unbeatable prices.

NEGRIL: HOME TO JAMAICA’S BEST BEACH

Aside from an evening in Montego Bay, Dan and I spent most of our Jamaican vacation in Negril. Jamaica’s ultimate luxurious getaway, Negril is graced with one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Negril’s claim to fame is the glistening Seven Mile Beach–a strip of sand that, despite its name, stretches for four glorious miles.

• SEVEN MILE BEACH IN NEGRIL

Seven Mile Beach is often regarded as one of the best beaches in the Caribbean and a top place to visit in Jamaica. Comparable to Veradero Beach in Cuba or Shoal Bay Beach in Anguilla, Jamaica’s most beautiful beach is an uninterrupted stretch of glistening white that fades into the turquoise Caribbean Sea.

We spent the entirety of our first day in Negril lounging around Seven Mile Beach and floating in its crystalline waters. Despite being one of Jamaica’s most popular attractions, Negril remains a laid-back place, full of local eateries and independent hotels.

For lunch, we heeded the advice of locals and ate a heaping plate of Jerk Chicken at Best in the West. It was our Thanksgiving Day meal, and I can hardly think of anything tastier.

• RICK’S CAFE IN NEGRIL

In the evening, we headed to Rick’s Cafe for a cocktail at Negril’s most famous establishment. Aside from Seven Mile Beach, Negril’s most popular tourist attraction is a bustling restaurant that dates back to the 1970s. Located at the top of a 35-foot high cliff on the far west end of Jamaica, Rick’s Cafe boasts uninterrupted sunsets and views over the vast Caribbean Sea.

Watching the cliff-jumpers at Rick’s Cafe is one of the most popular things to do in Jamaica. The cliff jumpers—an assortment of men, women, locals, tourists and children—dive off of a series of platforms into the sea below.

Though it is touristy, overpriced and (in my opinion) a bit overhyped, Rick’s Cafe is a Negril institution that merits a sundowner.

We had expected to spend the following day in Negril exploring some of the country’s inland attractions. But a combination of needing to rent a car and Seven Mile Beach’s magnetic pull, meant we spent our second day in paradise much like we’d spent our first.

During the day, we swam, dug our toes in the sand and strolled the length of Seven Mile Beach in search of solitude.

In the evening, we sat on the shore and watched the fiery sun dip below the horizon.

MONTEGO BAY: GATEWAY TO NORTHERN JAMAICA

After two full days in Negril, we journeyed back to Montego Bay. With a half day in Jamaica’s second largest city, we researched the best things to do in Montego Bay. The Internet suggested we visit Doctor’s Beach. Yet, discouraged by the entrance fee and cruise ship crowds, we chose to spend a few hours at Montego Bay’s public beach instead.

After dinner and a swim, our hostel organized an excursion to Glistening Waters near Fulmouth. Similar to the Bioluminescent Bay in Fajardo, Glistening Waters is a luminous lagoon that glows iridescent blue under the night sky.

• LUMINOUS LAGOON IN FULMOUTH

The lagoon sits at the confluence of the Caribbean Sea and the Martha Brae River. Its waters house micro-organisms that, when disturbed, emit a bluish glow. Glistening Waters in Jamaica is one of four such locations in the world. It is the only place where the luminary reaction can be seen every day of the year, regardless of weather conditions.

Dan and I got the brief opportunity to swim with the bioluminescent organisms during our hour-long boat tour of the luminous lagoon.

The experience was nothing short of magical.

***

Tourism in Jamaica capitalizes on the country’s branding. And after three days in Jamaica, I became aware of just how powerful the country’s image has been in attracting visitors. On the one hand, honeymooners flock to Jamaica’s all-inclusive resorts and idyllic beaches. On the other hand, decriminalized weed, Rastafari culture and One Love, have cultivated the image of a place where anything goes.

As a result, Jamaica attracts a unique mix of tourists–from honeymooners to beach bums to everyone in between.

Jamaica is a small island with a huge personality. And though we only skimmed the surface of Jamaica’s cultural and scenic offerings, our inexpensive weekend getaway gave us a small taste of what makes Jamaica special.

The land of reggae, Rastafarianism and olympic sprinters, Jamaica’s influence on the world is wholly disproportionate to its size. It is a country that brought the world Bob Marley, jerk spice and Usain Bolt. It is a country synonymous with music and dancing and ‘irie vibes.’

In Jamaica, a unique rhythmic beat, a tantalizing cuisine and a string of sandy shores, converge to create an affordable island experience unlike any other.

Additional Tips and Information on Budget Travel to Jamaica: 

• Jamaica is a year-round tourist destination, but the best time to visit Jamaica is in the northern hemisphere’s winter—when there is a diminished hurricane risk and weather is pleasant and dry.
• For travel between the Montego Bay Airport and our hotel in Negril, we booked a transfer with Clive’s Transport Service. The shuttle offers affordable and hassle-free transportation between the Montego Bay’s airport and Negril’s hotels and resorts.
• Eating at local establishments and staying at guesthouses or locally-owned hotels is both a fantastic way to support the Jamaican economy and the best way to travel the country on a budget.

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Seductive and secretive, Cuba has captured the imagination of American travelers for decades—not least because it has been shrouded in mystery for so long. The birthplace of salsa and producer of coveted Cuban cigars, it is a small country that has made a large splash around the globe both culturally and politically.

For years, Cuba was closed off to American tourists. And though people still found ways to visit the country illegally via Mexico or Canada, Cuba managed to avoid the levels of mass tourism found elsewhere in the Caribbean.

Yet, when Obama announced the loosening of restrictions on traveling to Cuba in 2014, thousands of Americans flocked to the Caribbean island. No longer out-of-bounds and illegal to reach, Cuba became a magnet of sorts for curious Americans who wished to peek behind the political barrier that divided Cuba from its northerly neighbor since the 1950s.

ONE WEEK IN CUBA: A PERFECT ITINERARY

Cuba is an island that defies Categorization. It is vibrant, complex, beautiful, idolized, chastised. With one week in Cuba, I did my best to visit the country’s top attractions and learn about its fraught history.

Val and I began our weeklong Cuba itinerary in Havana—Cuba’s achingly beautiful colonial city by the sea. While there, we stayed at a lovely AirBnb in Havana Vieja for two nights, before spending an additional two nights in the Vinales Valley. From Vinales, we took a shared cab to the perfectly-intact colonial gem of Trinidad, and finished out our week-long vacation at the sweeping sandy shores of Veradero.

DAYS 1 &2 ITINERARY: HAVANA

Havana is an open-air museum of classic cars and peeling paint and cobbled streets. The city’s heart–Havana Vieja–is magical and time-warped, like a page from the 1950s. With colorful colonial buildings lining bustling streets, Havana Vieja is at once European and yet totally its own. Nobody could have invented this bold, intoxicating and wholly original city. Music is everywhere. Color abounds. Children play makeshift baseball in winding alleyways. Every corner of the city is a painting waiting to be imagined. 

• HAVANA VIEJA

On our first day in Havana, we walked around the old town and got lost amongst its maze of painted houses. Havana Vieja was founded by the Spanish in 1519 and became a stopping point en route to the New World from Europe. Its pretty pastel  buildings are reminiscent of those in other colonial cities like Granada Nicaragua, Antigua Guatemala and San Juan Puerto Rico. 

• THE CUBAN REVOLUTION MUSEUM

We began our second day in Havana with a visit to the Revolution Museum.

The Revolution Museum focuses primarily on the events prior to, during and immediately after the Cuban Revolution. It presents the story of modern day Cuba, laden with a heavy dose of Anti-American sentiment and communist propaganda.  In addition to convincing displays of Cuban nationalism, the museum houses a tank used by Fidel Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs, a replica of the Granma yacht and an assortment of military vehicles and aircraft.

Despite its heavy-handed political bias, visiting the Revolution Museum is one of the top things to do in Havana. The museum is a fascinating and sobering reminder of just how differently historical events can be remembered and memorialized. 

• THE MALECON

After visiting the museum, Val and I strolled down the Malecon toward the new area of the city. The Malecon–a waterside roadway that runs eight kilometers from Havana Vieja to the modern part of the city–acts as an esplanade, a seawall, and a gathering place for young and old, tourists and locals, lovers and friends.

Along the Malecon’s waterfront promenade, Val and I witnessed families going for an afternoon stroll. We admired the endless stream of vintage cars as they zoomed past us on the nearby roadway. We listened to waves crash against the seawall, as the sun set behind the horizon. We sipped mojitos at the famous Hotel Nacional de Cuba.

Yet on the Malecon, we also saw a different Havana. Behind the fresh coats of paint, we saw a Havana that was crumbling, dirty and in disrepair.

CUBA ITINERARY DAYS 3&4: VINALES

If Havana is Cuba’s seductive and charming facade, then Vinales is its weathered and time-tested hands.

A short two hour drive outside of Havana, the Viñales Valley was named a UNESCO World Heritage site for its dramatic landscape of karst mogotes, its traditional agricultural methods of farming, and its rich history. Here, the city’s glamour and romanticism give way to a tougher existence that is bound inextricably to the land. 

Despite Vinales’ longstanding placement on Cuba’s tourist trail, this slow and relaxed outpost offers a glimpse into the lives of rural Cubans. While tourists appear to outnumber locals and every home has transformed into a Casa Particular, Vinales steadfastly refuses to put on a show. It is an agricultural town, where front doors are left wide open, everyone knows their neighbors, and evenings are spent swaying gently back and forth on wooden rocking chairs.

• VALLE DEL SILENCIO HORSEBACK TOUR

With one full day to explore Vinales, Val and I joined a horseback-riding tour through the Valle del Silencio. 

The tour brought us through idyllic countryside, while allowing us to learn a bit about Cuba’s tobacco-growing industry. In the Vinales Valley, cigar-chewing farmers plow their oxen through rust-colored tobacco fields. Tobacco leaves thrive here, due to the unique composition of the soil and the ideal climate of the area. On the tour, we witnessed the process by which tobacco leaves are dried, fermented and rolled into world-famous cigars.

The farmers of the Vinales Valley work the fields by hand. Once the tobacco leaves reach full maturity, they are harvested and hung in special curing barns, where they dry for months. After all moisture has been drained from the leaves, the Cuban government seizes 90 percent of the leaves. Tobacco farmers are left with a mere 10 percent, which they are allowed to roll into cigars and sell from their homes to tourists.

Our tour gave us an opportunity to speak with tobacco farmers and try the world-famous cigars, before continuing past the plantations, lakes and limestone peaks of the picturesque valley.

On the following day, Val and I left Vinales and headed toward the impeccably-preserved colonial gem of Trinidad.

DAYS 5 & 6 IN CUBA: COLONIAL TRINIDAD

Trinidad, Cuba’s best preserved colonial city, is a colorful open-air museum that feels frozen in time. With a unique mix of 1850s architecture and 1950s automobiles, Trinidad’s streets and alleyways are a postcard into the past.

Nestled in the verdant Escambrey Mountains and a short drive from one of the most beautiful beaches along Cuba’s southern coast, Trinidad’s old-world appeal consists of a unique blend of sights, sounds, and smells. In Trinidad, classic Chevys rumble down narrow lanes. Old men and women peer at passersby behind fancy wrought-iron windows. Rum flows freely from cafes and bars around town.  The air is filled with sounds of salsa music and the clicking of horse hooves on cobbled streets.

This tiny piece of picture-postcard heaven is exactly the time-warped cliche of Cuba that I’d had in my mind.

• ARCHITECTURE IN OLD TOWN TRINIDAD

Val and I spent two days in Trinidad, following our unforgettable visit to Havana and Vinales. While there, we soaked in the city’s colonial charm and relaxed in its plazas with mojitos in hand. The city’s few attractions can easily be explored in an afternoon. So, instead of packing our itinerary with things to see and do, we simply savored the atmosphere of this colorful town.

Trinidad was one of the first Cuban settlements founded by the Spanish in the 1500s. Noted today for its architecture and aesthetic appeal, this small city was once the hub of Cuba’s sugar industry. The 1700s sugar boom in Trinidad created a group of wealthy local sugar barons, who built magnificent estates and villas at the hands of imported African slaves.

Trinidad’s fortunes, though, eventually plundered. Slave uprisings and independence struggles took their toll on the Cuban sugar industry.

And when the industry finally collapsed in the late 1800s, Trinidad drifted into obscurity.

Sometimes good fortunes come in disguise. Thanks to the failure of its sugar industry in the 19th century, Trinidad has remained relatively unchanged over the past 200 years. With a stalemate in development and growth, this tiny colonial gem has largely avoided the rapid and sweeping changes of modernization.

• PLAZA MAYOR

Plaza Mayor is the heart of Trinidad. A large plaza comprised of raised gardens, walkways, and cobblestoned streets, it houses many of the town’s museums, churches and most famous buildings–including the Museum of Colonial Architecture, the Museo Romantico and the Casa de Aldeman Ortiz.

Surrounding Plaza Mayor, Trinidad’s streets are a magnet for photographers. With pretty pastel houses and palm-lined plazas, the cobbled lanes of Trinidad showcase what are undoubtedly some of the finest examples of colonial architecture in the Americas.

One must not stray far from the center of town, however, to see the Trinidad that lays behind the fresh coat of colorful paint. Our quick walk away from the city center in search of a money exchange office, brought us face to face with the neglected and run-down areas of the city.

• THE TRINIDAD OUTSKIRTS

As with our walk down the Malecon in Havana, our visit to the outskirts of Trinidad was a reminder that, behind the city’s UNESCO-sponsored paint job, thousands of ordinary Cubans are merely scraping by–working hard for very little financial reward and eagerly awaiting their next month’s rations.

DAY 7 ITINERARY: VERADERO

After two days of wandering Trinidad’s pretty streets, Val and I planned on visiting nearby Playa Ancon. We were, after all, in the Caribbean. And who goes to the Caribbean without even setting foot in the water?

In researching Cuba’s best beaches, however, we felt we were missing out by skipping the famous powdery sands of northern Cuba. With limited time, we had to decide if we wanted to stick around the vicinity of Trinidad for another day, or make a pit stop to the resort-studded sands of Veradero en-route to Havana.

In the end, we chose the latter option.

We’re so glad we did.

• WESTERN END OF VERADERO BEACH

While I do not doubt Playa Ancon’s beauty, I believe it would be difficult to top the perfection that we found in Veradero. The world-renowned beach at Veradero is an uninterrupted 20km stretch of white-blond sand that is undoubtedly one of the Caribbean’s best. I’ve hardly ever seen a beach so beautiful–save, perhaps, for the snowy sands of Shoal Bay Beach in Anguilla.

Veradero’s tourist-friendly shoreline is one of Cuba’s primary draws. But as anxious as I was to spend some time lazing in the sun at this picture-perfect place, I worried that I would be disappointed by Veradero’s crowds and commercialization. As one of the Caribbean’s premier resort destinations, I feared that our last day in Cuba would be spent in a place that so easily could have been elsewhere. I worried that, with its unsubtle development and large stash of hotels, Veradero would be a Disneyland of sorts–a place full of rowdy tourists looking for a packaged and sanitized Cuban experience.

It would be easy to visit Veradero and completely miss everything that makes Cuba unique. Knowing this, we stayed in an AirBnb along the western end of Veradero Beach, away from the large hotels. The western end of Veradero lies adjacent to town and is primarily filled with local tourists. Thus, for those seeking a slightly more authentic experience, it offers an escape from the hoards of partygoers and rows of beach umbrellas.

In staying away from the resorts, we found many signs of Cuba’s idiosyncrasies. We saw classic cars zooming down ocean avenues. We saw pop-up festivals with roller coasters that belonged in the Soviet era. We saw posters and billboards celebrating the leadership of Fidel Castro.

And when we decided to spend time relaxing at the public beach at the western end of the peninsula, we found its powdery sands to be largely empty.

INDEPENDENT TRAVEL TO CUBA

As someone who usually stays away from cruises and large group tours, I was thrilled when Obama lifted restrictions on travel to Cuba. But then Trump’s announcement had me scratching my head. Was independent travel to Cuba as an American still possible? Would I have to join an overpriced tour or a cruise in order to visit the land of salsa and cigars?

As it turns out, independent travel to Cuba is still much easier than it appears.

I spent one week in Cuba with my friend, Val, on a last minute decision to ditch the February cold that gripped the United States. 

We met at the Atlanta airport, still unsure about the practicalities of entering the country legally. But the journey couldn’t have been more straightforward. At the Delta ticket counter, we bought a $50 visa, indicated that we were traveling in support of the Cuban people, and sauntered onto the plane.

US travelers to Cuba must fall under one of twelve categories in order to legally visit the country. As an independent traveler, selecting “support of the Cuban people” ensured that I could visit the island on my own terms without joining a cruise or pricy tour. In order to support the Cuban population, Val and I stayed in Casas Particulares (private homestays that can be booked on AirBnb) and made sure to avoid eating at state-owned restaurants. We bought paintings from local artists and ensured that the money we spent stayed out of government hands.

PRIVATE ENTERPRISE IN CUBA

Though Cuba’s communist regime has stamped out some of the inequality that plagues much of Latin America, one need not look far to see that life is a challenge on this small paradise island. There is very little room for upward mobility in Cuba and, until recently, many Cubans lived entirely off government rations. Under its communist leadership, traditional Cuban food left a lot to be desired due to a ban on private enterprise and a lack of ingredients in stores. Internet was almost entirely unavailable.

In recent years, however, the country has undergone a small, yet significant, transformation. Raul Castro’s reforms have given Cubans a glimpse into the world outside their little island and have made it marginally easier for most Cubans to make a living. Internet–though painful to obtain–has become available in some public places. Private restaurants have mushroomed. AirBnBs have given people access to disposable money.

In Cuba, private enterprise is showing the first indications of a creative spring, though big-name American brands have yet to gain a foothold. 

And yet despite the subtle changes since Raul Castro’s takeover in 2008, the colorful streets of Havana still evoke a feeling of stepping foot into a bygone era.

***

Cuba is a country of contrasts. And one that, as an American, I have difficulty categorizing.

Many tourists and armchair travelers are quick to point out what this small island nation has done right or wrong over the last half century. And while I have my own disjointed opinions on the “Cuba debate,” I realize that rarely are things so black and white. Undoubtedly, Cubans have struggled under the country’s communist regime. But it isn’t the impoverished and desperate place that many Americans claim it to be, either.

In Cuba, I didn’t see the levels of staggering poverty that I’ve seen elsewhere. And while my visit to the outskirts of Trinidad revealed the less-than-ideal living conditions of the country’s working class, I didn’t see homeless living on the streets. Nor did I see anything that would resemble the shantytowns found throughout much of Latin America. Sure, I was made aware of the struggles of daily life in Cuba (the wifi connectivity issues, the lack of produce in grocery stores, the rundown buildings, the long lines of people queuing to receive rations), but so too did I see a country that is beautiful, highly educated and on the brink of change.

Cuba is vibrant and complex. It is dripping with history and blanketed in natural beauty. It is enchanting, magical, colorful and musical.

And no matter what one’s thoughts are vis-a-vis the Castro legacy, a visit to Cuba is sure to leave a lasting impression.

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With warm turquoise waters, swaying palm trees and blinding stretches of powdery white sand, it is easy to see how Anguilla gets its reputation as a paradise for beach enthusiasts and relaxation seekers. The 33 beaches on the Caribbean island of Anguilla look as though they belong in the glossy pages of National Geographic or Travel and Leisure.

And best of all, despite their international renown, they remain relatively untouched by mass tourism.

Simply put, when it comes to perfect beaches, Anguilla is in a league of its own.

DAY TRIP TO SHOAL BAY FROM ST MAARTEN

I visited Anguilla as a day trip from neighboring St Maarten. Though I couldn’t imagine a coastline more pristine than St Maarten’s Mullet Bay, I was anxious to see if Anguilla’s beaches lived up to all the hype. And so I bit the bullet, splurged on a day trip to the island and prepared myself to be wowed by some of the world’s finest stretches of sand.

• GETTING TO ANGUILLA

In order to reach Anguilla’s Shoal Bay Beach, I had two options; public transport or private tour. Traveling by public transport requires either a bus or a taxi to Marigot, a roundtrip ferry from Marigot to Blowing Point ($20 each way) and either a rental car or taxi ($40 roundtrip) from Blowing Point to the coveted Shoal Bay Beach. Alternatively, organized day trips to the island start at $95, including lunch. Both options require that visitors pay a $20 departure tax when leaving Anguilla. 

All costs included, I found little difference in price between the two options. And since I couldn’t justify the hassle of traveling by a combination of public transport and taxis for the same price as a tour, I opted for an organized day trip with Bluebeard Charters. 

The catamaran journey to Anguilla was much like the day sail I took to Tetiaroa Atoll in French Polynesia. For the duration of the hour-long sail, I enjoyed soaking up the sun, eating cheese and crackers and sipping on rum punch.

RENDEZVOUS BEACH IN ANGUILLA

As we neared Anguilla, the ocean began to transform into a bright shade of swimming-pool blue. The white sand was blinding even at a distance and I could see palm trees rustling in the light Caribbean breeze.

Our first stop was the uninterrupted expanse of sugary sand at Rendezvous Bay. As soon as I caught a glimpse of Rendezvous Bay, I knew that I would be setting foot in paradise.

At Rendezvous Bay, we waited for the shuttle to take us to Shoal Bay Beach. I was glad we had about half an hour to explore Rendezvous Bay before hopping on the bus, and took the opportunity to walk the stretch of sand, wade in the water and photograph the beauty around me.

When the bus picked us up, it took us from Rendezvous Bay to Shoal Bay, across much of the island’s interior.

The journey across Anguilla allowed me to catch glimpses of the island’s rural interior and  afforded me views of the incredible Sandy Ground Bay and its adjacent salt ponds. It also taught me a bit about the island’s history as a British Colony with a once-robust salt exporting industry.

SHOAL BAY: A TOP CARIBBEAN BEACH

By the time we reached Shoal Bay, we had a few hours to enjoy the area. I sat down for lunch at one of the beachside cafes and soaked in my surroundings. Then, I took turns walking down the beach, lounging in the sand and swimming in the crystal clear water—all the while darting back and forth to my camera in an attempt to imprint these images of paradise into my memory.

Shoal Bay Beach is consistently regarded as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. The beach—often likened to Veradero in Cuba and Seven Mile Beach in Jamaica—is simply in a league of its own. Never in my life, have I seen softer, whiter sand.

The lack of cruise tourism in Anguilla is one of Shaol Bay Beach’s greatest assets. I was continually struck by the lack of other tourists on the island and could only imagine how crowded Shoal Bay would have been had Anguilla been a major port of call for cruise ships.

ACCOMMODATIONS NEAR SHOAL BAY

As with my day trip to Saba, I realized that spending one day in Anguilla—while certainly worthwhile if strapped for time—is not enough. Rendezvous Bay and Shoal Bay are merely two beaches on an island that has more stretches of immaculate sand per square kilometer than just about any other place on Earth.

Though I remember my day trip to Anguilla with fondness, I can’t help but wish I’d chosen to stay the night at one of the hotels flanking the immaculate sands of Shoal Bay Beach.

There are a number of highly rated places to stay along Shoal Bay’s achingly beautiful shoreline. Among them are the Manoah Boutique Hotel, the Zemi Beach House, and the Shoal Bay Villas.

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I know I’ve referred to many of the places I’ve visited as paradise. And I know that, by doing so, I may have lost a bit of credibility. But Anguilla’s beaches are so perfect, that I’d be hard-pressed to find someone who disagrees. Simply put, in terms of fitting all the bread and butter criteria for a perfect beach–fluffy white sand, warm turquoise water, an absence of large crowds and gently lapping waves–it doesn’t get much better than this.

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