Japan’s Kansai Region represents the country in a nutshell.

Home to atmospheric temples and colorful flashing billboards, the beautiful region on Honshu Island contains both the modern comforts and culinary delights of urban Japan, as well as the nostalgic charm of the country’s hinterland.

Kansai’s two largest cities—Osaka and Kyoto—offer the perfect introduction to Japan. Together, the cities reveal a country of quirks and contrasts, while showcasing the rich history and modern impulses that contribute to Japan’s layered and widespread appeal.

Though I only had a short weekend to spend in Japan, my three day Kyoto and Osaka itinerary revealed some of the country’s most spectacular highlights and caused me to fall in love, once again, with the Land of the Rising Sun.

Our Three Day Japan Itinerary

Dan and I spent three days in Japan, excluding travel time. Due to the brevity of our visit, we chose to skip Tokyo and focused our itinerary on Kyoto and Osaka instead.

I’d visited Kyoto once before, during a high school exchange in 2007. Since my exchange, I’d hoped to return to the city to revisit its temple-laden streets and peel back its history.

Yet travel plans always seemed to bring me elsewhere. It wasn’t until twelve years later, over a long holiday weekend in May, that I finally took the opportunity to return to Kyoto with Dan.

Dan and I split our three day Japan itinerary between Kyoto and Osaka—spending two days temple-hopping in the former, and a day indulging in the culinary delicacies of the latter.

While in Kyoto, we stayed at the Nagomi Ryokan-Yuu in order to experience a traditional Japanese-style guesthouse. The ryokan was centrally located, clean, affordable and within spitting distance of the delectable Ginjo Ramen Kubota.

For the last day of our whirlwind itinerary, we stayed at the Yamatoya Honten Ryokan, near Osaka’s buzzing Dotombori district. It, too, contained everything we needed for a relaxing and enjoyable stay.

Kyoto Itinerary Day 1: Highlights of Japan’s Cultural Capital

There is no doubt that Kyoto is Japan’s cultural capital and spiritual heart. It is a city in which geisha shuffle between appointments, prayer chants resonate through peaceful gardens, and picturesque streets hearken back to the days of old.

While the rest of Japan has adopted modernity with abandon, Kyoto still celebrates its heritage and clings to its past. The elegant imperial city is one of the most beautiful in Asia.  It houses an unparalleled wealth of monuments, including a whopping 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and many of Japan’s most beloved icons.

• The Golden Pavilion

The Kinkaku-Ji Temple (also known as the Golden Temple or Golden Pavilion) is the symbol of Kyoto and one of the most iconic images of Japan. It is often the highlight of Kyoto tourist itineraries.

The Golden Pavilion lies in the northwest corner of Kyoto, tucked amongst a verdant forest. The main hall of the temple complex, covered in brilliant gold leaf, casts its shimmering reflection onto an adjacent pond. At once splendid in its opulence and simple in its design, the pretty pavilion wows visitors with its delicacy

Since the Golden Pavilion is one of Kyoto’s most popular temples, I wanted to arrive early to beat the crowds. From the Kyoto Station, Dan and I hopped on bus #205 and arrived shortly after the temple’s opening time. When we arrived, however, the line already wrapped down the street. Though we were early, we realized that visiting the temple crowd-free would be an impossible feat.

Reluctantly, we joined the end of the queue and waited to pay the Y400 entrance fee.

The temple was certainly worth the wait.

The Golden Pavilion is simply stunning. Not even the crowds of tourists—numbering in the thousands—could detract from its shimmering brilliance.

• The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

Arashiyama is one of Kyoto’s most popular sightseeing districts. Filled with temples and shrines and a popular bamboo forest, the pretty district in western Kyoto merits a half day of exploration.

When I visited Kyoto in 2007, I did not stop in Arashiyama. In fact, I didn’t even know the place existed. Yet in recent years, I began seeing images of the swaying bamboo stalks everywhere—in Instagram feeds, in travel brochures and even in advertisements.

The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove has exploded in popularity over the recent years thanks, in large part, to social media.

And while I try not to let Instagram trends influence where I choose to travel, I dragged Dan to Arashiyama in order to see what all the fuss was about.

Like the Golden Pavilion, Arashiyama is worthy of its renown. The grove’s graceful bamboo pillars stretch toward the sky, rustling back and forth in the breeze and casting patterns of dappled light on the area’s pathways.

If I could go back, however, I would have stopped at Arashiyama early in the morning, en-route to the Golden Pavilion. The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is best explored at dawn, before throngs of visitors inundate the forest with their selfie sticks and curated poses.

While Arashiyama’s bamboo forest is undoubtedly the most popular thing to see in the area, it certainly isn’t the only notable destination in Arashiyama. One could spend an entire day in the area—exploring its maze of temples, floating down the Katsura River by boat, and watching life unfold from the Togetsukyo Bridge.

• The Nijo Castle 

The Nijo Castle dominates a large part of Northwest Kyoto. Built in 1603 as the official residence of the city’s Tokugawa shogun, the imposing structure was meant to demonstrate prestige.

The most noteworthy attraction on the Nijo Castle grounds is the spectacular Karamon Gate. Intricately adorned in golden motifs, the wooden gate is one of Kyoto’s finest examples of artisanship.

The Nijo Castle complex is divided into five principal buildings. The fourth chamber contains spectacular golden screen paintings that showcase the delicate sophistication of Japanese art.

Photography of the screen paintings is, unfortunately, prohibited.

• The Nishiki Market

After soaking in three of Kyoto’s most important sites and completely skipping out on lunch, Dan and I were ravenous. We decided to take a bus from the Nijo Castle to the Nishiki Market for dinner.

The Nishiki Market—also known as Kyoto’s Kitchen— is a favorite spot for locals and tourists alike. Filled with souvenir stalls, street food, cafes, restaurants and matcha shops, the sprawling covered market is Kyoto’s top foodie hotspot and a great place to sample the city’s local delicacies.

Kyoto Day 2: A Taste of Traditional Japan

On the following day, Dan and I continued our quest to discover Kyoto’s most beautiful religious monuments. We began our day with a hike around the grounds of the sprawling Fushimi Inari Shrine. In the afternoon, we explored the traditional streets and alleyways that serve as a peephole into Kyoto’s past.

• The Fushimi Inari Shrine 

With a seemingly endless string of orange torii gates spread across a thickly wooded mountainside, the Fushimi Inari Shrine represents a one-of-a-kind temple-going experience. The shrine is, quite simply, one of the most impressive places to visit in Japan and a must-see staple of any Kyoto itinerary.

And better yet, the Fushimi Inari Shrine doesn’t cost any money to visit.

The entire religious complex sprawls across the wooded slopes of Inari Mountain. A path wanders 4 kilometers up the mountain, sheltered by thousands of vermillion archways. It is a beautiful shaded area that consists of dozens of trails, alters and small sub-shrines.

We spent a few hours exploring Fushimi Inari during the morning of our second day in Kyoto. And, had we not decided to proceed to some of Kyoto’s other must-see attractions, we could have probably spent the whole day hiking around Inari’s orange-speckled slopes.

• Kyoto’s Gion District 

From the Fushimi Inari Shrine, we took the Keihan Main Line to Gion. There, we turned back the clock and found ourselves meandering down the narrow lanes of Medieval Japan.

Gion is one of Kyoto’s most beautiful neighborhoods. The picturesque district dates back to the Middle Ages. It is one of the top places to visit in Kyoto and, by far, the most famous geisha district in Japan.

In Gion, it is not uncommon to see geisha shuffling along narrow streets, flitting to and from their latest appointments.

Packed with bars, restaurants and traditional teahouses, Gion lies between the Nishiki Market and Yasaka Pagoda. Some of Gion’s most picturesque strolling spots include Hanami Lane, Shijo Dori and the Shirakawa Canal.

A visit to the area is best combined with a walk through the nearby Higashiyama District between the Yasaka Shrine and Kiyomizu-dera Temple.

• The Higashiyama District

The Higashiyama District lies along the lower slopes of Kyoto’s eastern mountains. Like nearby Gion, it is one of the city’s best preserved historic districts.

Small shops, cafes and restaurants line Higashiyama’s pretty streets. Its businesses retain their centuries-old designs and entice customers with delectable sweets, local handicrafts and Japanese curiosities.

The Yasaka Pagoda is a defining landmark that lies between Gion and the Higashiyama District. From the pagoda, a well-preserved walk leads to the sprawling Maruyama Park in one direction, and the iconic Kiyomizu-Dera temple in the other.

• The Kiyomizu-Dera Temple

A buzzing hive of activity perched on a hill overlooking Kyoto, Kiyomizu-Dera is one of the city’s most important temples. As with the impressive Orthodox cathedral in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan, the temple was built without the use of a single nail.

Kiyomizu-Dera’s main hall contains a verandah that juts out over the hillside. Below its main hall is a fountain from which visitors can drink water and pray for longevity and good fortune.

I distinctly remember visiting Kiyomizu-Dera twelve years ago and soaking in the aerial views of Kyoto from its reinforced wooden balcony.

When I visited the temple on my most recent trip to Kyoto, however, the main temple structure was unfortunately wrapped in scaffolding.

Nonetheless, visiting Kiyomizu-Dera was well worth the Y300 entrance fee.

Japan Itinerary Day 3: Exploring Osaka 

Osaka is the second largest city in Japan. While it doesn’t have the same high concentration of UNESCO sites and cultural gems that can be found in Kyoto, the cosmopolitan city is well known for its nightlife, business districts and incredible street food. Osaka is Japan’s food capital writ large, boasting an overwhelming number of mouthwatering culinary delicacies.

Osaka is not pretty in the conventional sense, but it packs more color than most cities—exhibiting vibrant pedestrian walkways and concrete buildings blanketed in flashy neon signage.

As with Kyoto, I could have spent the entirety of my Japan vacation in Osaka and still found plentiful things to do and foods to eat. With only one day, however, I decided to divide my time between the colorful foodie paradise of Dotombori, and the magnificent Osaka Castle in the Chuo-Ku District.

• The Osaka Castle 

The Osaka Castle has become a symbol of Japan. It is, without a doubt, the top place to visit in Osaka.

After unifying Japan in the late 1500s, General Toyotomi Hideyoshi built this grand castle alongside 100,000 workers. And though the present structure is a 1931 concrete reconstruction of the original, the current castle is nonetheless an impressive site to behold.

The five-story building sits in the middle of a large park and looms dramatically over Osaka’s surrounding cityscape.

The entire Osaka Castle Park covers about two square kilometers in the northern part of the city. The park contains sports facilities and vast areas of green space. During the springtime, it is one of Osaka’s most popular places for hanami-viewing.

• Street Food and Neon Lights in Dotombori

Dan and I ended our Kyoto and Osaka itinerary with a stroll through the dynamic Dotombori District.

Highly photogenic Dotombori contains a large concentration of Osaka’s foodie hotspots. It is a lively area, made all the more atmospheric at night, when it is illuminated in flashing neon signs that resemble parts of Tokyo, Hong Kong, New York and Seoul.

A 400-year-old canal cuts through the flashy district. At night, illuminated billboards (including that of the famous Gilco Running Man) emit a show of lights that glitter off its waters.

Heeding the advice of multiple blogs and travel guides, we explored the district with empty stomachs and put our taste buds to work. We ate okonomiyaki along one of Dotombori’s hole-in-the-wall side streets, sampled takoyaki from kukuru and snacked on an assortment of Osaka-style skewers at Kushikatsu Gokakuya.

I wish I could have eaten without getting full, because the food options in Osaka kept my mouth watering long after I’d stuffed my stomach to the brim.

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My three day Kyoto and Osaka itinerary allowed me to experience some of Japan’s best offerings in limited time. From iconic landmarks and world heritage sites to tantalizing food and vibrant culture, Kansai’s two largest cities gave me insight into the contrasting forces at play in this modern, yet deeply traditional, country.

And in doing so, they all but convinced me to begin planning my return trip to the area.

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Additional Kyoto and Osaka Itinerary Tips

• There are multiple ways to travel between Kyoto and Osaka. The shinkansen (Y1420) is the fastest option, taking approximately 15 minutes. Other options include the JR Train (Y560, 30 minutes) and a bus that travels between Kyoto Station and Osaka’s Universal City Station (Y900).
• Visiting Kyoto and Osaka is best in the Spring and Fall, when weather is pleasant and mild. Summers in Japan can get unbearably hot, while winters tend to be quite cold.

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Taroko National Park is one of Taiwan’s top tourist destinations. A spectacular area containing marble-walled canyons, emerald vegetation and picturesque shrines, the park is a dream destination for lovers of hiking, culture and splendid scenery.

The national park’s massive mountains are awe-inspiring. They tower over the chiseled Taroko Gorge, concealing temples and rivers and waterfalls. The national park—speckled with pagodas and surrounded by green forests—is a scenic wonderland that is worlds away from the bright city lights of Taiwan’s urban centers.

Bisecting this emerald wonderland is the Taroko Gorge–a masterpiece of geologic craftsmanship that, all puns intended, puts the ‘gorge’ in gorgeous. 

TAROKO NATIONAL PARK IN TAIWAN

Taroko  National Park lies on the eastern coast of Taiwan, near the city of Hualien. Not only is the park one of the top places to visit in Taiwan, but it is also sometimes considered to be one of the most beautiful national parks in Asia.

A highlight of travel outside Taipei, Taroko’s scenery is varied and dramatic. Within an area of less than 60km, its landscapes rise from sea level to over 3,00o meters.

The Taroko Gorge is the national park’s landmark attraction. Its precipitous cliffs line the snaking Liwu River and practically beg to be photographed.

In addition to the gorge, Taroko National Park boasts waterfalls, shrines, sea cliffs, and 27 peaks over 3,000 meters in height.

TAROKO NATIONAL PARK DAY TRIP ITINERARY

Taroko National Park is a popular day trip destination from Hualien. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can even visit as a day trip from Taipei.

We spent two nights in Hualien and explored the gorge over the course of a day. Taking a public bus through the Taroko Gorge meant adhering to posted timetables. Since we were visiting the Taroko Gorge as a day trip from Hualien, we didn’t have time to do extensive hiking in the area. With that in mind, we skipped the longer hiking trails in the park and opted to spend more time at viewpoints along the way.

Our itinerary consisted of five main stops along the tourist circuit: the Swallow Tail Grotto, the Tunnel of Nine Turns, Tianxiang, the Eternal Spring Shrine and Qixingtan Beach.

• THE SWALLOWTAIL GROTTO

The Swallowtail Grotto was the first stop on our self-guided itinerary of Taroko National Park. The grotto derived its name from the eponymous swallows that have found a home in these sheer cliff walls. Sitting smack dab in the middle of the canyon, the grotto is a narrow stretch of gorge that affords jaw-dropping views at every turn. Sheer cliff faces soar skyward and plunge into the ravine below. At the Swallowtail Grotto, Taroko National Park is at its most dramatic. A narrow canyon has been chiseled by the blue-green Liwu River over millenia, creating one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Taiwan.

The Swallowtail Grotto Trail takes about half an hour to complete. The path runs parallel to the vehicular road that cuts through the canyon.

Beware of falling rocks. The path through the canyon has rocky overhangs that can potentially be dangerous. As a result, many pedestrians at the Swallowtail Grotto and nearby Tunnel of Nine Turns choose to wear hardhats for protection.

• THE TUNNEL OF NINE TURNS

Just down the road from the Swallowtail Grotto, the Tunnel of Nine Turns is another must-see attraction along the Taroko Gorge.

The tortuous course of the Liwu River has carved a narrow canyon in the heart of the national park. A highway cuts alongside the canyon, winding along the precipitous cliffs, through a series of tunnels. This area of the park features vertical marble facades and some of Taiwan’s most astonishing natural craftsmanship. The path offers views of layered stone strata, narrow canyon walls and the snaking Liwu River below.

Like the Swallowtail Grotto, the Tunnel of Nine Turns takes about 30 minutes to walk and follows the main vehicular road through the park.

• TIANXIANG PAGODA

From the dramatic and narrow gorge, we hopped back onto the 1137A and took the bus all the way to the final stop of Tianxiang–the largest village in Taroko National Park. Tianxiang offers limited food and accommodation options for those who choose to stay in the national park overnight.

Set amidst a dramatic mountainous landscape, Tianxiang is yet another highlight of the Taroko Gorge. The Xiangde Temple in Tianxiang is the centerpiece of of the area’s attractions and a popular spot for visitors and worshippers. A short steep trail leads to the temple and adjacent pagoda.

From the temple overlooking Tianxiang, 360 degree views of the chiseled limestone formations are nothing short of breathtaking.

• ETERNAL SPRINGS SHRINE

After about an hour of soaking in the views of the surrounding mountains in Tianxiang, we continued our Taroko Park day trip with a stop at the Eternal Springs Shrine–a haunting memorial to the workers who died while constructing the park’s Cross-Island Highway. The shrine–one of the most photographed and beloved scenes of the park– sits atop a series of waterfalls that gush into the river below.

The Eternal Springs Shrine sits near the entrance to the park, just beyond the visitor’s center. Shuttle buses only stop by the site on their return trips from Tianxiang to Hualien. Thus, while the shrine is one of the closest park highlights to the entrance, it was the penultimate stop on our Taroko National Park itinerary.

The Eternal Springs Shrine is a ten minute walk from the parking lot and bus stop. Those wishing for a longer hike can follow a 2.2km trail behind the shrine. The uphill trail leads to the Guanyin Cave and Taroko Bell Tower.

• QIXINGTAN BEACH

Qixingtan, about 3km north of Hualien, features a wild and rugged coastline of emerald cliffs and ebony shores. Lying just outside the Taroko National Park boundaries, this sweeping crescent of black pebbled beach was the final stop on our return journey from Tianxiang to Hualien.

Qixingtan isn’t a typical beach escape. The scenery is wild, raw and unforgiving. One of Taiwan’s most iconic beaches, Qixingtan is a force of nature. The sky-blue waters of the Pacific crash agains the black-rock beach, churning its waters into a frothy foam.

The water at Qixingtan Beach is too rough for swimming. Nevertheless, the rugged stretch of oceanfront is a fantastic spot to bring a picnic lunch and photograph the crashing ocean waves.

HIKING IN TAROKO NATIONAL PARK

Admittedly, my visit to Taroko National Park consisted of very little hiking. Though my itinerary included short walks to some of the park’s highlights, I didn’t have the time to complete any of the longer treks in the area. Traveling to the Taroko Gorge by public bus meant I had to adhere to a strict transportation timetable. And so with only one day to explore the stunning gorge, I had to prioritize.

Based on my independent research prior to visiting the park, however, I gathered that there are quite a few beautiful trails along the Taroko Gorge. Most popular, are the Shakadang Trail, the Baiyang Waterfall Trail and the Zhuilu Old Trail.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR TAROKO NATIONAL PARK

Hualien’s proximity to the Taroko Gorge entrance makes it a logical place to stay while exploring the national park. We stayed at the Flower Time Guesthouse for two nights during our trip to the Taroko Gorge. The guesthouse– centrally located near the train station in Hualien—provides a clean and inexpensive base for exploring the area.

Other highly-rated places to Stay in Hualien include the Visual Range B&B and 1999 B&B for a budget room and the Kindness Hotel for a higher-end stay.

WHAT TO DO IN HUALIEN TAIWAN

Hualien was a delightful surprise. Though we primarily used the city as a launching pad for our day trip to the national park, we took the opportunity to wander the streets of Hualien during our free evenings in town.

If you’ve got only a day or two to explore Hualien’s surroundings, I suggest you focus your itinerary on the Taroko Gorge Attractions.

But if you have extra time to spare, you can check out some of the places to visit in Hualien that we couldn’t squeeze into our itinerary: Pine Garden, the Manor House, and Martyr’s Shrine.

Hualien’s undeniable highlight the Dongdamen Night Market. We found the market to be one of the best we visited during our short trip to Taiwan.

TRAVEL FROM HUALIEN TO TAIPEI

The train journey from Taipei to Hualien takes two hours. Due to its popularity, however, tickets sell out fast–usually two weeks in advance. For those who choose to map out their travel itineraries last-minute, bus/train combo tickets are a convenient and affordable alternative.

Since we planned on visiting Hualien a mere two days before departure, we had no choice but to purchase a combo ticket. From the Taipei City Hall Station, we took a bus to Luodong, followed by a local commuter train from Luodong to Hualien. The total journey took around three hours.

If you have limited time in Taiwan and don’t want to worry about planning and logistics, you can opt to join a day tour of the Taroko Gorge from Taipei.

GETTING AROUND TAROKO NATIONAL PARK

The scenic wonders of Taroko National Park are accessible by both public bus and private tour. There are several bus companies that travel through the gorge. We took Taroko Bus route 1133A, which departs from Hualien’s train station seven times a day.

The public bus is an affordable way of seeing the park’s highlights. An unlimited day pass on the 1133A costs NT$250.

Alternatively, you can join a tour of Taroko National Park from Hualien. Tours of the gorge provide reliable transport and bring you to all the main highlights in the park.

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The Taroko National Park is one of the most beautiful attractions in Taiwan. From gushing waterfalls to black sand beaches to soaring granite peaks, the park affords photo opportunities at every bend.

Portuguese explorers in the 1500s landed in Taiwan and named the island ‘Ihla Formosa’ or ‘Beautiful Isle.’

By traveling to Taroko National Park and immersing myself in the island’s natural beauty, it was not difficult for me to understand why.

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Taipei’s beauty lies in its blend of ancient history and modern design. A living museum of East Asian civilization, Taiwan’s capital city boasts intricate temples, bustling markets and innovative architectural feats. Currently a de facto independent state with a functioning government but limited international recognition, Taiwan has a long history of occupation by vying empires. As a result, Taipei is a curious fusion of Japanese anime curiosities, deep-rooted religious tradition and foodie flair. The city’s temples buzz with the pious; its Japanese-era houses have been restored to their former glory; and its markets serve up everything from fried crab to bubble tea.

THE BEST OF TAIPEI: A THREE DAY ITINERARY

Taipei is Taiwan’s capital, as well as its largest city.  and the first stop on almost every Taiwan itinerary. Taipei is such a dynamic and multifaceted city that, even after three days, we felt we only skimmed the surface of things to see. With more time, we would have loved to hike Elephant Mountain, ride a cable car to Maokong, or take a day trip to Jiufen.

Nevertheless, our visit to Taipei was filled with both hot-ticket attractions and unexpected surprises. During our three days in Taipei, we reveled in all that makes the city such a dynamic place to visit–beginning with Taipei’s ancient heritage, continuing with its its triumphant and tragic past and finishing at the top of the world with its cutting-edge architecture.

ITINERARY DAY 1: THE CHARMS OF OLD TAIPEI

We began our three day Taipei itinerary with a visit to the city’s temple-laden streets. Many of Taipei’s most beautiful temples reside in the Wanhua District of Old Taipei, a stone’s throw from the excellent and affordable Ximen 35 Hotel.

Taipei’s temples are ornate and colorful incense-filled places of worship. Most of the temples in Taipei combine Buddhist, Taoist and Confucianist influence–lending them unique in their intricacy and design.

• WANHUA DISTRICT TEMPLES

The Longshan Temple–Taipei’s most famous– is one of the oldest and largest religious structures in Taiwan. A 1738 building that has withstood wars and natural disasters, the temple was originally constructed as a gathering place for Chinese settlers from Fujian.

The revered Longshan Temple is one of the three most important religious sites in the Wanhua District, alongside Banka Quingshui Temple and the Tianhou Temple.

• DATONG TEMPLES

From the Wanhua District, we continued our Taipei temple-hopping itinerary with visits to the most beautiful temples in Datong. The Datong District houses two of Taipei’s top attractions–the Taipei Confucius Temple and the adjacent Dalongdon Bao’an Temple.

The Dalongdon Bao An Temple, in particular, is an exquisite UNESCO World Heritage Site covered in ornate paintings and intricate floral motifs.

Temples are everywhere in Taipei–lining busy streets, quiet lanes and forgotten alleyways. Though one could spend days meandering from one temple to the next, we contented ourselves with a half day of religious sightseeing before continuing to Dihua Street.

• DIHUA STREET TAIPEI

Dihua Street is one of the best-preserved streets in Taipei. Situated in the heart of Datong, the area’s restored buildings date back to the 1800s. Dihua’s historical buildings house traditional storefronts and apothecaries that are overflowing with loose-leaf teas, herbal medicines, sundries and spices.

Following a whirlwind tour of Old Taipei’s highlights, we spent the evening near our hotel in Ximending.

• XIMENDING TAIPEI

Bright lights and color characterize Ximending. It is a youthful and exuberant district, similar to Tokyo’s quirky Harajuku Street. With billboards displaying cartoon characters, stores selling the latest fashion trends and floods of people milling about, Ximending is worlds away from the incense-filled places of worship nearby.

TAIPEI ITINERARY DAY 2: MEMORIALS AND MUSEUMS

Our second day in Taipei introduced us to the island’s historical and artistic heritage. We began our sightseeing itinerary with a visit to the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial and ended it at the National Palace Museum.

• CHIANG KAI SHEK MEMORIAL

The massive consortium of buildings consists of a memorial hall, the National Theater, the National Concert Hall and an imposing gate. All buildings encircle Liberty Square–a vast symmetrical gathering place that has been the epicenter of Taiwan’s liberation struggles.

Erected in honor of former Chinese president-in-exile, Chiang Kai Shek, the stately memorial is one of the most prominent symbols of Taiwan. Chiang was a nationalist leader who ruled China between 1928 and 1949. When Mao Zedong’s communist party usurped power, Chiang retreated to Taiwan. There, he established a government in exile.

A controversial figure in Taiwan, some view Chiang as a hero who fended off the communists and recovered Taiwan from Japanese colonial rule. Others view him as the face of a party that seized Taiwan’s sovereignty and attempted to squander its culture.

Despite the controversy surrounding Chiang Kai Shek himself, the impressive memorial is one of Taiwan’s most recognizable attractions and a noteworthy place to visit.

• HUASHAN 1914 CREATIVE PARK

From the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial, we hopped back on the MRT metro and headed to the Huashan 1914 Creative Park. The winery-turned-boutique-area is one of Taipei’s best spots for shopping and picnicking.

Built in 1914 as a Japanese sake brewery and later repurposed as a camphor refinement mill, the facility has more recently transformed into an arts and culture center. The Creative Park is home to a large grassy area suitable for recreation, as well as an indoor shopping complex that consists of niche stores and eateries. It is a wonderful place to spend the afternoon and get familiarized with Taipei’s modern creative impulses.

• NATIONAL PALACE MUSEUM OF TAIPEI

We rounded out our second day in Taipei with a visit to the National Palace Museum. We only had a few hours to dedicate to the exhibition halls of the museum. But like the world’s other great museums, one could spend the better part of a day admiring its pilfered treasures.

The National Palace Museum houses over 700,000 permanent Chinese artworks spanning 8,000 years of history. Sometimes referred to as the Louvre of the Chinese-speaking world, the National Palace Museum hosts an exquisite collections of carvings, ceramics, paintings and calligraphy. Entrance to the museum costs NT$350. Those who are planning on visiting the Taipei 101 observatory, should consider buying a combination pass for NT$800.

TAIPEI ITINERARY DAY 3: OUT OF THE CITY AND UP IN THE SKY

We began our third day in Taipei with a trip to the top of the Taipei 101—Taiwan’s tallest skyscraper and an impressive feat of modern engineering.

Following our ascent into the clouds, we we spent a few hours enjoying some of the top sights in Beitou.

In the evening, we rounded out our itinerary with a tantalizing sampling of Taipei’s best street food.

• THE TAIPEI 101

The bamboo-shaped Taipei 101 is the world’s second-tallest building, having lost the number one spot to the Burj Khalifa in Dubai  in 2004.

Tickets to the top of the Taipei 101 are pricey. Originally, we weren’t sure if we wanted to pay the steep entrance fee. However, since climbing the Taipei 101 is considered to be one of the top things to do in Taipei, we eventually caved.

We’re glad we did.

From the Taipei 101 observation deck, the world below looks like a miniature toy city.

• THE BEITOU SPRINGS

Following our tour of the Taipei 101’s observation deck, we took the MRT to Xinbeitou, the last stop on the red metro line.

Beitou is a small Japanese-style resort town renowned for its hot springs. First developed during the Japanese colonial occupation of Taiwan, the hot spring village around Xinbeitou MRT is a popular half-day trip from Taipei’s downtown.

Top sights and activities in Beitou include the Beitou Hot Spring Museum, the Taiwan Folk Arts Museum, the Beitou Geothermal Valley and, of course, the popular soaking springs themselves.

We didn’t actually take the time to soak in the springs, though we enjoyed walking the streets of Beitou and learning a bit about the area’s geothermal activity. The tranquil streets of town are a calm juxtaposition to the lights and traffic and constant bustle of Taipei’s urban core.

• THE TAIPEI NIGHT MARKETS

There are a million reasons to visit Taiwan, but the diverse food scene is one of the country’s primary appeals. Perhaps more than any other city in the world, Taiwan is known for its night markets. Forget clubs or bars. In Taipei, the best place to spend an evening out is in one of the city’s street food hotspots.

So after admiring the world below from the top of the Taipei 101 and walking the streets of sleepy Beitou, we took the MRT to the Rahoe Night Market in order to indulge in Taipei’s street food offerings.

Though the Rahoe Night Market was one of our favorites foodie hotspots in Taipei, fantastic street food accompanied us everywhere we went. There are dozens of night markets scattered around Taipei. Each offers a smorgasbord of tantalizing goodies. During our three days in Taipei, we indulged in food from morning to night–devouring tapioca waffles, softshell crab, bubble tea and dumplings like it was our job.

There are a thousand and one things to do in Taipei, and sampling the city’s culinary delights ranks somewhere near the top of the list.

The proliferous presence of tasty food was a reminder that, in Taipei, sightseeing and eating go hand in hand.

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Taipei takes great pride in celebrating its history. It is a city of temples that showcase the city’s heritage, and modern buildings that push the limits of possibility. It is at once traditional, cutting edge and downright wacky. It is a Shanghai meets Tokyo, with its own Taiwanese twist. A place that houses both one of the world’s largest art collections and what is, undoubtedly, one of the world’s largest concentrations of cartoon characters.

In this bustling Asian metropolis that defies categorization, I’m sure of one thing:

No matter how many days you spend in Taipei,  you’ll never run out of things to do, places to see, or delicious foods to eat.

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Additional Resources and Tips for Visiting Taipei:

• I split my three day Taipei itinerary in half with a two day trip to the Taroko Gorge National Park. While the gorge can be visited as a day trip from Taipei, the spectacular national park is best explored in two or more days
• Hotel prices in Taipei skyrocket on the weekends. I recommend securing weekend accommodation in advance. For budget travelers, I wholeheartedly recommend the centrally-located Ximen 35 Hotel.

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The Pamir Highway is a high-altitude road that bypasses some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in Central Asia. Traversing the Roof of the World, this spectacular ribbon of pavement winds between craggy peaks, past glistening lakes and through lunar landscapes.

Formally known as the M-41, the Pamir Highway extends from Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Mazar-i-Sharif in Afghanistan. Driving along the Pamir Highway is an ultimate road trip adventure for lovers of culture and off-the-beaten path wilderness.

PAMIR HIGHWAY: PLANNING AND LOGISTICS

After two weeks in Kyrgyzstan and southern Kazakhstan, I flew from Bishkek to Osh in order to begin my Pamir Highway road trip. By this point in my travels to Central Asia, Dan and Courtney had both returned to the United States. As a result, I found myself alone for the most adventurous leg of my month-long journey.

And what an adventure it was.

Traveling the Pamirs is not easy.

Roads–even along the main thoroughfare–are in in terrible shape. Homestays are rudimentary. Hygiene standards are foreign concepts. And even for those who think they’ve penned down their perfect route, altitude sickness, landslides and severe weather can turn carefully-planned itineraries upside down.

• HOW TO TRAVEL THE PAMIRS

There are several ways to travel the Pamir Highway. Some budget travelers choose to hitchhike or rely on limited public transport between larger towns. Others choose to cycle the high altitude road in a show of mental fortitude and physical strength.

Most, however choose to hire a driver to take them from Osh to Khorog on a road trip varying between four and ten days.

Knowing I wanted to hire a vehicle for the route, I began scouring forums and reading travel blogs in preparation for my trip. With the help of the Internet, I found three other people—a Dutch/Polish couple and a solo Malay traveler—with whom to share the journey. We met at the Osh Guesthouse and finalized logistics.

Two days later, with a jeep full of newfound friends, a bag full of layered clothing, a head full of apprehension and heart yearning for adventure, I set out into the unknown.

We organized a five day tour with Visit Alay–a company that focuses on travel to southern Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

• PAMIR HIGHWAY TRAVEL COSTS

The cost of traveling along the Pamir Highway varies depending on number of people, length of time and total kilometers traveled. Between the four of us, we payed $225 per person for five days. The price included transportation, as well as meals and lodging for our driver. It excluded our own meals and accommodation, which usually ranged between $15-20 extra per day.

• VISAS AND PERMITS FOR THE PAMIR ROAD TRIP

Traveling the Pamirs requires a bit of advanced planning. As an American, I needed to organize a Tajikistan e-visa and GBAO Permit before crossing the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. 

The GBAO Permit is a document that allows for travel through Tajikistan’s Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Province. Both the visa and permit can be easily obtained online in a couple days. 

PAMIR HIGHWAY: ROUTE AND ITINERARY

Our five day Pamir Highway itinerary brought us from Osh to Khorog via the Wakhan Valley. From Khorog, we hired a 4X4 shared taxi to take us the remaining 600km to Dushanbe–Tajikistan’s capital city.

Over the course of five days, we ogled at the snow-capped Peak Lenin, meandered through yak-studded pastures and peered into Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor.

• DAY 1: OSH TO PEAK LENIN BASE CAMP

The first leg of our journey brought us to the Alay Region of southern Kyrgyzstan. Home to undulating golden landscapes and soaring mountain peaks, this spectacular area of the country cemented my love for Kyrgyzstan as a trekking destination. 

From Osh, we joined the M-41 and began our steady climb into the Pamirs. As we drove higher and higher toward the Roof of the World, the scenery grew more breathtaking by the minute.

Along the way, we watched daily life unfold. We passed by red rock canyons, winding mountain passes and tiny villages where time seems to have stood still. There were few other vehicles traveling the Pamir Highway. Most roadblocks we encountered consisted of herders leading their cows and sheep to water.

On our first night along the Pamir Highway, we stayed in yurts at the Peak Lenin Base Camp near Sary Mogul. The yurt camp sits along the shores of Turparkol Lake, nestled among rolling hills of golden grass. 

We arrived at Peak Lenin with time to settle into our yurts, enjoy a short walk along the lake, and soak in the surrounding views.

The camp’s lakeside setting is magical in all directions. Treeless golden hills undulate under the vast sky, spanning out in all directions. To the north, a ring of purple mountains linger on the horizon. To the south, Peak Lenin’s towering massif looms overhead.

• DAY 2: PEAK LENIN TO KARAKUL

On the second morning of our Pamir Highway tour, we woke up to a layer of snow blanketing the surrounding mountains. Our Pamir Highway itinerary afforded us a bit of time to explore the area prior to hitting the road, so I set off into Peak Lenin’s wilderness for a few hours. 

From the yurt camp, a trail leads toward Traveler’s Pass. At every step of the way,  gold-gilded mountains and snow-capped peaks took my breath away. I had difficulty putting my camera down.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to complete the trail before leaving. A combination of lack of time and breathlessness from the altitude forced me to turn back after a few kilometers. The vistas I saw, however, were some of the most extraordinary of the entire trip.

Upon leaving Peak Lenin, we continued skyward, toward the Tajikistan border. As we climbed in elevation, the golden grasses of Kyrgyzstan gave way to Tajikistan’s lunar landscapes. For the next few days, I felt as though I was cruising along the surface of the moon.

A few hours after crossing the Tajikistan border, we arrived in Karakul–an expansive mountain-ringed lake situated within an impact crater. The mud-brick village of Karakul lies along the shores of the lake. The town is small and eerily quiet. Though we were visiting in late summer, temperatures were near freezing and we could see smoke rising from the chimneys of the mud-walled houses.

My companions and I bundled in our warmest clothes, meandered through the village and walked to the shores of the lake. When our fingers and faces stung from the cold, we retired to our cozy homestay for dinner and a cup of warm tea.

• DAY 3: KARAKUL TO ALICHUR

The following morning, we left Karakul and sailed past scree-covered valleys, toward Murghab. Though it was summer, harsh winds bit at my face. Snowflakes danced about, slowly covering the ground in a thin layer of white.

The third day of our Pamir Highway road trip brought us to the highest point on our journey–the 4655 meter Akbaital Pass. We crossed the pass and admired the sweeping views of the barren valley, careful to avoid physical exertion at every cost. The altitude was not only visible, it was also tangible. As we soared higher and higher into the Tajik Mountains, we could feel the air grow thinner. Our breaths accelerated in rapid succession. When we ran out of the car for a bathroom breaks, we would often find ourselves gasping for air.

After crossing the pass, we descended to the village of Murghab for a lunch break. Our driver–a friendly Tajik from Murghab–invited us to his home for lunch and a chance to meet his family.

For a few hours, we interacted with our driver’s hospitable wife and kids. Then, giving him a little privacy with his family, we set out to explore Murghab’s shipping container market before continuing to our homestay in Alichur.

Murghab sits at a cross-roads. Positioned between China and Afghanistan, this makeshift town was a 1895 Soviet military outpost that signified the farthest reaches of the Soviet Empire. Seemingly at the edge of civilization, it has a temporary frontier feel.

The landscape surrounding Murghab is bleak, with not a tree or shrub in sight. In all directions, the scenery is empty. Eerie. Desolate.

The Pamiri women of Murghab wear scarves wrapped around their entire heads–revealing only a small slit for the eyes–to shield against the wind and dust. As we walked around town, the wind bit at my face. It was not even Autumn yet, and still we had to battle the elements.

I could only begin to imagine the harsh reality of life in the Pamirs.

• DAY 4: ALICHUR TO LANGAR

The fourth day of our Pamir Highway tour consisted of vast glassy lakes, wide open skies and yak-studded pastures. We covered a relatively short stretch of road during the fourth day of our road trip. In this section, we took short hikes around glistening lakes and frequently got out of the car to stretch our legs.

Lakes Bulunkul and Yasilkul lie a few kilometers off of the M-41. We took the detour toward the lakes and were asked to pay a small fee before reaching the Yasilkul lookout. The fee (paid to a local man from a small village near the road turnoff), seemed like a ploy to make a couple dollars off of tourists.

Regardless, I happily handed over two dollars in exchange for views over the lake’s sky-blue waters. In the high altitude lunar landscapes of the Pamirs, the lakes look like mirages–their placid surfaces reflecting the massive skies overhead.

From the chain of lakes, we continued toward the Afghan border.

There, we handed over our documents at a checkpoint, turned onto a particularly bumpy stretch of road and caught our first glimpses of Afghanistan from across the river.

• DAY 5: LANGAR TO KHOROG VIA THE WAKHAN CORRIDOR

The Wakhan Valley is a popular detour from the M-41. The bumpy gravel road follows the Panj river as it winds between some of Central Asia’s tallest peaks.

The entire corridor on either side of the river is speckled with mud-walled villages that are nestled in fertile plots of cultivated land. Unlike the lunar landscapes we had encountered on days 2-4 of our Pamir Highway tour, the Wakhan Valley is home to trees and patches of green earth. Beyond these fertile slivers of green, towering valley walls give way to glimpses of the Hindu Kush mountains.

Small human settlements lie along the river, strung together by patches of arable land. Among these villages, ruins of caravanserais and forts stand as a testament to the area’s storied past.

The main highlight along the Wakhan Corridor the Yamchun Fortress–a stone structure that dates back to the 3rd century BC and overlooks fertile lands on either side of the Panj.

Apart from the beauty of the journey, the Wakhan Corridor’s proximity to Afghanistan makes it a fascinating detour from the M-41.

Villages along the Wakhan Corridor look as though they’ve remained untouched for centuries. I was so close to Afghanistan, that I could practically touch its soil with my outstretched arms. Across, the river, I waved at Afghan caravans leading their herds to the water. I watched women wash their clothes along the riverbanks. I glimpsed children running about, playing as though they had not a care in the world.

It was an eye-opening window into a forbidden and hauntingly beautiful country. A country that I one day hope is safe enough to explore.

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A road trip along the Pamir Highway is not for the inexperienced traveler. For those accustomed to luxuries on the road, the Pamir Highway can be a challenge. There is little variety in the food, accommodation is rudimentary at best, and toilet facilities are among the most revolting I’ve ever come across.

But travelers willing to step outside of their comfort zones, will find that there are few adventures more rewarding than a road trip along the Roof of the World.

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Boasting turquoise alpine lakes, cow-studded pastures, craggy mountain ridges and dramatic windswept rock formations, Kyrgyzstan is a country defined by its beauty. Kyrgyzstan’s wild and unspoiled scenery remains raw and relatively untouched by mass tourism. Mountains cover eighty percent of the country’s surface area and beckon hikers with dramatic vistas and abundant photo opportunities. Nestled at the heart of this dramatic wonderland, lies crystal-clear Lake Issyk Kul–the world’s second-largest high-altitude lake and the center of Kyrgyzstan’s burgeoning tourism industry.

There are endless things to do around Lake Issyk Kul. In summer months, beaches along the lakeshore attract sunbathers and swimmers. Beyond the shores of the lake, activities include horseback riding and some of the best trekking in Central Asia.

After four incredible days in southern Kazakhstan, Dan, Courtney and I traveled to Kyrgyzstan for the third biennial World Nomad Games. Since the nomadic games took place in Cholpon Ata at the north end of Lake Issyk Kul, we decided to focus our Kyrgyzstan itinerary on the plentiful things to see and do nearby.

With nearly a week in this stunning area of Kyrgyzstan, we soaked in hot springs, strolled through jailoos, relaxed by the water’s edge and trekked among Kyrgyzstan’s snowcapped peaks.

Karakol: Gateway to the Kyrgyz Mountains

When we arrived in Kyrgyzstan, we had a full day to spare before the start of the World Nomad Games. Hoping to make the most of our time near Lake Issyk Kul, we headed to Karakol. The sprawling city of Karakol is Kyrgyzstan’s primary mountain gateway. Karakol sits on the eastern edge of the lake and is a launching pad for excursions to Altyn Arashan and Jyrgalan.

While in Karakol, we spent two nights at the Evergreen Guesthouse–a lovely family-run establishment with impeccable rooms, a hearty free breakfast and a friendly host that offered up information on things to see and do around Lake Issyk Kul. It was, by far, the best place we stayed during our three weeks in Central Asia.

Karakol is a pleasant city with shaded streets, low-rise houses, plenty of green spaces and some excellent eateries. It is a town with limited sights, but lots of nearby activities. The city’s most famous attraction is the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church–a 19th century structure that is said to have been built without the use of a single nail.

Fires and earthquakes destroyed the church mere decades after it was built. What stands today, is a largely rebuilt replica of the original masterpiece.

Still, the church’s exquisite exterior is a must-see when in Karakol.

From the cathedral, my travel companions and I took a taxi to the Karakol Livestock Market. As we milled about the market, we watched men and women haggle over cows, goats, sheep and horses.

Karakol’s renowned market takes place every Sunday. It attracts vendors and buyers from surrounding communities, as well as a few odd tourists.

The Karakol Livestock Market–one of the largest in Central Asia–is reminiscent of the Friday Cattle Market in Nizwa, Oman. The sprawling market offers a fascinating glimpse into Kyrgyz society.

Day Trip to the Altyn Arashan Hot Springs

After visiting the livestock market and the Holy Trinity Cathedral, we hired a driver to take us to the Altyn Arashan Hot Springs. Altyn Arashan is the most popular trekking destination within easy reach of Karakol. Set in a postcard-perfect alpine valley, the yurt-studded jailoo is breathtaking.

Many travelers to Altyn Arashan visit the area as part of a three day hike to Ala Kol Lake. Since we only had a day in Karakol before the start of the games, however, we settled on an afternoon trip to the hot springs instead.

The road to Altyn Arashan is among the worst I’ve ever seen. Resembling nothing more than an uneven hiking trail, the drive up the root-covered, rocky path  is a hair-raising, body-beating adventure.

As we climbed the mountainside in our seatbelt-less UAZ-452, we bounced up and down, side to side. Along the way we passed hikers, sheepherders and jaw-dropping vistas of the surrounding mountains.

Two bruising hours later, our driver dropped us off at an Eco Yurt Camp near the hot springs. As soon as we reached Altyn Arashan, we fell in love with the idyllic valley. Sitting in the shadow of Palatka Peak and flanked by forested mountains on either side, the grassy jailoo is home to a series of thermal springs that lie along the river.

Altyn Arashan contains both indoor bath houses and outdoor hot springs. We initially soaked in a frog-shaped outdoor pool by the river. But the water in the frog’s mouth was lukewarm at best.

After half an hour of bathing in the open-air spring, we paid a small fee to access a steamy indoor pool attached to the yurt camp.

We may not have done much hiking in Altyn Arashan, but our banged-up bodies sure enjoyed the therapeutic water.

Jyrgalan: Kyrgyzstan’s Trekking Paradise

Following our day trip to Altyn Arashan and three days cheering on the athletes at the World Nomad Games in Cholpon Ata, Dan, Courtney and I returned to eastern Issyk Kul for a few days of trekking in Jyrgalan. Natural beauty fills the Jyrgalan Valley. Emerald hills and pastures roll outward, ringed by craggy snowcapped peaks. Lakes, rivers and waterfalls bisect this lush landscape and sparkle in warm summer sunshine.

We spent two days in Jyrgalan–soaking in the mountain scenery and basking in the solitude of this sleepy mountain community.

While many travelers to Jyrgalan opt to set off on multi-day treks in the area, we chose to stay at the Jyrgalan Yurt Lodge and take day hikes into the surrounding pastures and mountains.

On our first day in Jyrgylan, we meandered past village streams and cow-studded pastures to the Kok Bel Waterfall.

On our second day in Jyrgalan, we heeded the advice of the local Community Based Tourism (CBT) office and set out to visit Turnaluu Kol Lake–a shimmering body of water that lies 2,700 meters above sea-level.

Though we were equipped with step-by-step directions, we didn’t quite make it to the lake. The path–well marked with arrows for the first mile or so–simply disintegrates into the lush farmlands outside of town.

With no clear path to the lake, we spent the rest of the afternoon walking through pastures, fording mountain streams, and enjoying the surrounding scenery.

The Southern Shores of Lake Issyk Kul

From Jyrgalan, Dan made the long journey back to the United States for work. Courtney and I still had a few days to spare before our return flights, so we ventured to the southern end of Lake Issyk Kul.

While we explored southern Issyk Kul, we stayed at the Bel Tam Yurt Camp near Tong. The yurt camp sits on the shores of the crystal-clear lake and boasts a mountainous backdrop, a laidback communal area and delicious nightly dinners.

A trip around the entirety of Lake Issyk Kul reveals the diversity of things to do in this area of Kyrgyzstan. On the southern shores of the lake, we swapped lush green mountains for cracked red desert.

As a day trip from the Bel Tam Yurt Camp, we spent an afternoon at the colorful Skazka Canyon. Also known as the Fairy Tale Canyon, this geologic wonder is a place where iron-rich rocks have eroded into photogenic corridors and spires. It is one of the most impressive attractions near Lake Issyk Kul.

Part Valley of Fire in Nevada, part Painted Hills in Oregon, this colorful landscape is a swirling melange of reds, pinks, yellows and oranges –a striking contrast to the cobalt lake waters that lie beyond.

Courtney and I spent two blissful days at the Bel Tam Yurt Camp. After a week of being constantly on the move, we reveled in the serenity of the camp’s lakeside location.

Aside from our day trip to the Skazka Canyon, we did very little sightseeing during our final days in northeastern Kyrgyzstan.

Instead, we simply enjoyed reading at the beach, chatting with fellow travelers and falling asleep to the sound of lapping waves.

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The area around Lake Issyk Kul is a wonderland for hikers, sunbathers and nature-lovers. Our week around Kyrgyzstan’s largest lake showcased some of the most extraordinary scenery that this landlocked Central Asian country has to offer.

Based on travelogues and google photos, I had high expectations before visiting Kyrgyzstan. I knew the country would be visually stunning and culturally vibrant.

What I didn’t realize, is that the ease of traveling in Kyrgyzstan would be facilitated by a comprehensive public transportation system, easy visa-free travel, plentiful things to see and do and some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met.

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The World Nomad Games is an event unlike any other. Sometimes referred to as the ‘Olympics of the Nomads,’ the week-long celebration of Central Asian athletics is a stunning display of epic proportions.

Since its inception in 2014, the popularity of the nomadic competition has soared. After all, where else can you see such a dizzying array of people from countries whose names you can’t even pronounce? Or watch men on horseback sling headless goat carcasses into hoops? Or cheer on Team USA as it tries to compete with falconers and horseback wrestlers who have perfected their sport for millennia?

THE THIRD BIENNIAL WORLD NOMAD GAMES

Kyrgyzstan launched the inaugural World Nomad Games in 2014. The purpose of the games was to showcase Kyrgyzstan’s tourism potential to audiences abroad, while instilling a sense of pride in local communities who have struggled to define themselves in the wake of Soviet occupation. By hosting an event that would bring people together for a week of athletic competitions, dance performances, singing and craftsmanship, the organizers hoped to keep the nomadic traditions of Central Asia alive

And since its inception, the World Nomad Games has been a huge success. In 2014, the event attracted 600 athletes from 19 countries. Four years later, the third edition of the biennial event showcased nearly 2,000 competitors from 74 countries.

TRAVELING TO THE WORLD NOMAD GAMES

When I first heard about the World Nomad Games in 2016, I knew that I would have to travel to Kyrgyzstan for the 2018 competition. The event simply sounded too spectacular to pass up. Without even considering the rugged beauty of nearby Lake Issyk Kul or the endless trekking opportunities in the Tian Shan Mountains, the World Nomad Games catapulted Kyrgyzstan to the top of my travel wish-list.

Dan, Courtney and I traveled to the third biennial World Nomad Games in Cholpon Ata, after four incredible days exploring the deserts and lakes of southern Kazakhstan.

To reach the event from Almaty, we took a minibus via the Kyrgyz capital of Bishkek. Fourteen hours later, we arrived in Cholpon Ata physically exhausted, yet brimming with anticipation.

Prior to arriving in Kyrgyzstan, I stalked forums and websites online in order to find more information on the World Nomad Games. I was hooked. Yet, information on the sporting competition–even on the event’s own website–was scarce. It was not until mid-July, that I could confirm the event would be held in Cholpon Ata between September 2nd and September 8th.

By the time I arrived in Kyrgyzstan for the start of the games, I’d spent so much time searching for photos and descriptions online, that I began to worry that I’d overhyped the event in my head.

I figured the World Nomad Games could be one of two things: it could be as amazing as everyone promised, or it could be an inauthentic, touristy Disneyland of sorts.

We stayed in Cholpon Ata for three days during the World Nomad Games. While there, we divided our time between the hippodrome in Cholpon Ata and the sweeping jailoo of the Kyrchyn Gorge.

I immediately realized that my fears of inauthenticity and Disney-style displays were unfounded. What I encountered during our three days at the World Nomad Games, was a dazzling display of Olympic-style showmanship, with a Kyrgyz twist.

I need not have worried about the authenticity of the games; the event was nothing short of spectacular.

EVENTS AT THE KYRCHYN GORGE JAILOO

During the World Nomad Games, the Kyrchyn Gorge Jailoo northeast of Cholpon-Ata transformed into a nomadic encampment of epic proportions. A jailoo, which translates to ‘summer pasture,’ is a place where nomads bring their flocks to graze during warmer months. During the games, the jailoo at Kyrchyn became home to hundreds of yurts, many of them exquisitely decorated.

As we meandered between the yurt camp, we stopped to admire acrobats, musicians and dancers. Locals–often decked out from head to toe in traditional dress–milled about with tourists. Their enthusiasm for the event was palpable, as they broke out into song, photographed themselves riding camels and cheered on their favorite athletes.

Various stages around the jailoo hosted live performances, meaning that entertainment abounded at all hours of the day. Competing athletes clopped by on horseback, interacting with visitors. Tightrope walkers and magicians performed their skills for gaping observers. Music notes floated into the crisp mountain air.

Aside from its exhibits of Kyrgyz music and art, the jailoo at the Kyrchyn Gorge was one of the main places where competitions occurred. Horseback archery, falconry, dog hunting and ordo—a bocce-like game that consists of dislodging sheep bones from a circle—took place at the edge of a grassy knoll, near the cultural village.

The Kyrchyn Gorge blew our expectations out of the water. With its theatrical performances, sporting events and decorated yurts, the jailoo evoked a nomadic encampment from a bygone era.

Considering the World Nomad Games was free to attend, I often found myself wondering how the event managed to remain so undiscovered.

And then I remembered we were in Kyrgyzstan–a country that most people from North America and Europe have likely never even heard of.

How lucky we were, to attend the World Nomad Games before it became flooded with kitschy souvenirs and busloads of tour groups.

WORLD NOMAD GAMES HIPPODROME EVENTS

While the Kyrchyn Gorge Jailoo hosted some of the most fascinating Kyrgyz sports competitions, many of the high-profile events at the World Nomad Games took place at the hippodrome in Cholpon Ata. Beautifully positioned at the edge of Lake Issyk Kul, the hippodrome hosted competitions of horseback wrestling, horse racing and kok boru.

Horseback wrestling, or ‘Er Enish‘ is perhaps the most brutal of all events at the games. A violent show of brute strength, the sport consists of bare-chested men attempting to fling each other off their horses and into the dirt.

Er Enish drew sizable crowds to the hippodrome stadium. It was a clear favorite among locals and tourists alike. But while Er Enish competitions filled the grandstands, kok boru was the undeniable highlight of the  at the World Nomad Games.

Kok boru is a traditional game in which two teams on horseback compete to rack up points. The game–like a form of rugby on horseback–consists of players slinging around a beheaded goat, in an attempt to fling it into large circular rings.

To those who don’t understand the sport, kok boru looks like pure chaos. Horses charge at each other from every direction, protesting and neighing and sending flying dust into the air. It is the type of sport that causes Western tourists to gape, and animal-lovers to cringe.

Kok boru is the hallmark event of the World Nomad Games, so we made sure to watch a few matches from the grandstands at the hippodrome. We even got to cheer on Team USA as it got clobbered (both literally and figuratively) by its Central Asian opponents. Unsurprisingly, the Wyoming cowboys from Team USA lost by nearly 30 points in each of the matches we attended. Nevertheless, it was a fun surprise to see my home country compete in an event that most of my fellow Americans are unaware exists.

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Attending the World Nomad Games was one of the undeniable travel highlights of my life. And I don’t say that lightly. In a world that often focuses on cultural divisions and extremism within Islam, Kyrgyzstan’s celebration of nomadic life highlighted the commonalities that bring people together in both Central Asia and the world at large. The weeklong celebration of nomadic culture allowed me—a tourist—to have multiple meaningful connections with competitors, artists, musicians and dancers from Central Asia.

At Kyrgyzstan’s World Nomad Games, the line between tourist and local blurred as we danced together, laughed together and, together, cheered on those who were competing in the nomadic games.

I could have so easily imagined everything being different. I could have easily imagined the event charging steep entrance fees to attract tourist dollars and ward off local visitors. I could have easily imagined touts asking for money, or vendors hassling tourists to buy cheap nicknacks and souvenirs.

But what we encountered instead, was an event that was as genuine and inclusive as it was captivating. One in which everyone—locals and tourists alike—reveled in the festive atmosphere and came together in celebration of nomadic life.

In 2021, the World Nomad Games will take place in Turkey for the first time (delayed by a year because of the pandemic). With the additional tourism and press coverage that will undoubtedly follow, I just hope that the world’s largest nomadic sporting event can manage to maintain its authenticity.

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Though Kazakhstan is one of the largest countries in the world in terms of area, the ex-Soviet republic doesn’t often find itself at the top of peoples’ bucket lists. A massive swath of land that comprises much of Russia’s southern border, Kazakhstan’s name recognition is antonymous to its size. Aside from oil production and Borat, mentions of Kazakhstan often draw blanks stares. As a result, when I told friends and co-workers that I would be visiting Kazakhstan for four days prior to the World Nomad Games in Kyrgyzstan, their answers were always the same: “You’re going to where before you go to the what in where?”

Since Dan and I only had a few days to spare before the World Nomad Games, we didn’t have time to explore the farthest reaches of this vast and off-the-beaten-path country. Instead, we focused our Kazakhstan itinerary on the area around Almaty–Central Asia’s primary gateway and the hub of Kazakhstan’s nascent tourism industry.

Almaty is a conveniently located metropolis that lies along the foot of the Tian Shan Mountains in Southern Kazakhstan. The natural diversity of the city’s surroundings is amazing–from arid deserts and chiseled canyons, to lush valleys and glistening lakes.

Kazakhstan Itinerary Day 1: Almaty

Almaty is Kazakhstan’s most populous city and the location of Central Asia’s largest airport. It is a cosmopolitan city, with wide boulevards, leafy parks, pleasant cafes and unparalleled access to the country’s most beautiful scenery.

Dan and I traveled to Kazakhstan in late August, after spending a few days in Seoul. Within hours of arriving at the Almaty Backpackers, we met up with our friend, Courtney, who had decided to join us on our trip to Central Asia. Together, we spent the first day of our trip exploring Almaty and penning down the remainder of our Kazakhstan itinerary.

Almaty’s main tourist attraction–the yellow and white Zenkov Cathedral– was unfortunately hidden under scaffolding during our visit, so we spent the remainder of our day wandering aimlessly around the city on foot. We strolled along Almaty’s pedestrian streets, found shade in its leafy parks, ate our first bowl of hand-pulled laghman noodles and admired the views of the Tian Shan Mountains.

The highlight of our visit to Almaty was the Green Bazaar–a large, two-level market that thrust us headfirst into the sights and smells of Central Asia. The market is not for the faint of heart. Cow heads and horse carcasses hang from rafters, dripping in blood.

It is smelly, disgusting and utterly fascinating.

Though Kazakhstan’s biggest city is a bit lacking in must-see sites, Almaty makes up for its dearth of tourist attractions with its livable air and killer mountain views. Without a doubt, the best thing about Almaty is its stunning location. Snow-capped mountains can be seen from nearly everywhere in town–luring backpackers and nature lovers to their craggy peaks and alpine lakes.

Had we budgeted more time for Almaty, we would have taken a day trip to Big Almaty Lake or spent time hiking around Medeu.

Yet, since our Kazakhstan itinerary consisted of only one day in Almaty, we spent our day strolling through the city’s resplendent parks and figuring out the logistics of our remaining three days in the country.

Day 2: Tour of Charyn Canyon and Kaindy Lake

The Almaty Backpacker’s Hostel organizes multi-day excursions to the canyons, lakes and deserts around Almaty. The trips range in price depending on length and number of travelers. Since three other backpackers were interested in joining us, Dan, Courtney and I each paid a reasonable $195 for a three day tour of Southern Kazakhstan. The price included food, accommodation, entrance fees and transport.

The first stop on our three day tour of Southern Kazakhstan, was the Charyn Canyon–an area of the country that is characterized by chiseled rock spires and burnt red earth.

Though it is difficult to reach by public transport, the Charyn Canyon is one of the most popular sites in Kazakhstan. For more than twelve million years, wind, water and sand have sculpted the Charyn’s orange-hued cliffs.Resembling parts of Utah and Arizona, the canyon adds dimension and color to the endless steppe that surrounds it in all directions.

The Charyn Canyon consists of five distinct areas: the Yellow Canyon, the Temirlik Canyon, the Bestamak Canyon, the Red Canyon and the popular Valley of Castles. The Valley of Castles is the most famous part of the park and the only section that we visited on our tour from Almaty.

Our driver, Ivan, dropped us at the parking lot near the canyon rim and instructed us to walk along the valley floor until we reached the Charyn River. The leisurely hike is about two miles each way and affords dramatic views of the towering red sandstone.

From the Charyn Canyon, we left the Kazakh Steppe behind and ventured into the foothills of the Tian Shan Mountains. Our destination was Lake Kaindy–a spectacular blue-green lake that is home to Kazakhstan’s ‘inverted forest.’

Kaindy Lake is surrounded by dense, pine-covered woods. Though just a short drive from the Charyn Canyon, the area’s alpine scenery made me feel like I had been transported back  home, to the Pacific Northwest.

Kaindy Lake’s elegant trees rise gracefully from the shallow lake, like the masts of sunken ships. The unique lake was formed in 1911, after an earthquake caused the ground to collapse in on itself. Water subsequently flooded the basin, submerging the existing forest. Due to its cold temperature, Kaindy Lake’s underwater forest has been preserved for over a century.

From the parking lot, we hiked along the short trail to the water’s edge. There, we spent a bit of time photographing the curious trees and watching a group of local fishermen.

A second short trail from the parking lot wraps around the lake and affords views of the skeletal trees from above.

Kaindy Lake lies at the end of a dirt road that is only accessibly by four wheel drive. Despite being one of Kazakhstan’s most iconic attractions, its remote location and inaccessibility means that this wonder of nature can be enjoyed in relative quiet.

Day 3: Hiking the Kolsai Lakes Trail

The following morning, we left our homestay in Saty and headed toward the jewel-like Kolsai Lakes near the Kyrgyzstan border.

The two lower lakes–unimaginatively named Kolsai 1 and Kolsai 2–are surrounded by spruce trees, alpine meadows and mountain pastures. We spent much of our third day in Kazakhstan hiking between these two stunning alpine lakes.

The lovely day hike between Kolsai 1 and Kolsai 2 winds through alpine forests and flower-speckled countryside. The path begins along the eastern lakeshore of Kolsai 1 and affords stunning views of the glassy blue-green water below. After a few miles of gradual incline along lakeside meadows, the path climbs to an altitude of 2,500 meters. The moderately difficult hike is approximately 18km roundtrip and takes about six hours to complete.

Due to its proximity to the Kyrgyz border, guards patrol the area around the Kolsai Lakes. We were made to show our passports both before the hike and after reaching Kolsai 2. Hiking to Kolsai 3 is currently forbidden, since the lake straddles Kazakhstan’s border with Kyrgyzstan.

Our visit to the Kolsai Lakes coincided with Kazakhstan’s Labor Day. As a result, busloads of young Kazakh hikers descended upon the mountain in order to complete the hike between Kolsai 1 and Kolsai 2. The Kazakh hikers were friendly, outgoing and curious as to why we had decided to visit their country.

While I normally would be disappointed to encounter such crowds in an isolated location, the affable Kazakh backpackers we met made our hike to the Kolsai Lakes all the more enjoyable.

Day 4: Altyn Emel National Park and Tamgaly-Tas

After two days of visiting rock canyons and jewel-studded lakes, we spent our last day in Kazakhstan soaking in the sweeping emptiness of Altyn Emel National Park. Kazakhstan’s largest national park is vast, untouched and off-the-beaten-path. Driving down the solitary roads in Altyn Emel reminded me of traversing parts of Namibia–where cars are few and far between and wide-open vistas give the sense utter solitude.

I could have easily spent the entirety of my four day Kazakhstan itinerary in Altyn Emel National Park–home to towering dunes, colorful mountains, petroglyphs, ancient burial mounds and abundant wildlife. The 4,600 square mile park is simply too expansive to see in one day.

With only one morning in Altyn Emel, we limited our visit to the Singing Sand Dune.

The Singing Dune at Altyn Emel National Park is 1.5 kilometers long and 120 meters high. The dune get its name from the deep humming sound that occurs from vibrations when wind blows the top layers of sand. Recent rainfall meant that the dune was pretty quiet on the day we visited, but we were still able to hear the rumbling sound when we moved our hands and feet across the surface of the sand.

After running down the sand dune and gawking at its melodious hum, we made our way back to Almaty for the conclusion of our four day Kazakhstan itinerary. Along the way, Ivan dropped us off at one last stop–the mysterious petroglyphs of Tamgaly Tas (not to be confused with the UNESCO-recognized Tamgaly Petroglyphs that lie over 300 kilometers to the west).

The Tamgaly-Tas rock carvings date back to the fourteenth century and constitute an open-air Buddhist temple of sorts. The carved rocks lie on the banks of the Ili River, about 170 kilometers from Almaty. The decorated rocks contain images of the Buddha, as well as Tibetan inscriptions. The largest composition consists of three carved Buddhas, sitting on lotus flowers.

The rock carvings are sophisticated, intricate and beautiful.

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Our four day Kazakhstan itinerary gave us a unique and varied sampling of some of Kazakhstan’s most beautiful places.

Now, when I think of Central Asia’s largest country, I no longer envision a blank spot on the map. Nor do I equate Kazakhstan to oil reserves and Borat.

Instead, I visualize glistening alpine lakes, canyons of chiseled red rock, and endless steppe–stretching as far as the eye can see–beneath cavernous blue skies.

The post Four Day Kazakhstan Itinerary from Almaty appeared first on Erika's Travels .

After a week in Cambodia’s sweltering tropical heat, Seoul’s winter weather hit me like a slap in the face. I had bundled in layers from head to toe and braced myself for freezing temperatures, but nothing quite prepared me for the rush of cold air that met me as I stepped off the plane at the Incheon International Airport. Temperatures hovered around ten degrees Farenheit and the fierce wind sliced at my bones.

It was a stark reminder that we were no longer in the tropics. And that winter in Seoul is cold. Much colder than we had realized. 

And yet, though visiting Seoul in winter meant that South Korea welcomed us with a chilly hello, the city captivated us with its royal palaces, its lively teahouses, its quiet retreats and its delicious food.

TWO DAYS IN SEOUL: WINTER EDITION

What we found–upon landing in Seoul–is a city that is modern, yet traditional. It is forward-looking and yet steeped in a culture that dates back thousands of years. Seoul has everything a tourist could dream of: good food, beautiful architecture, funky neighborhoods, bustling markets and access to the outdoors.

With two days in Seoul, I hit the ground running—careful, of course, not to slip on the ice. We reached Seoul in the early morning and took a direct bus from the Incheon Airport to downtown. Seoul’s bus network is comprehensive and efficient. Within two hours of landing, bus #6015 brought us from the airport to the GS Hotel. The GS Hotel in Seoul is lovely—boasting clean rooms, a central location, affordable prices and much-needed heated floors.

PLACES TO VISIT ON A TWO DAY SEOUL ITINERARY

After settling in and bundling up, we spent the afternoon exploring Seoul’s winter wonderland. Of course, as one of Asia’s most enigmatic and history-packed cities, our two day itinerary would only begin to uncover Seoul’s countless places to visit.

Still, we enjoyed a whirlwind visit to many of the city’s top attractions.

• DONGDAEMUN MARKET

Our first stop was the Dongdaemun Market. There, we wandered through rows of brightly colored fabrics, sampled our way through food stalls selling mung bean pancakes and took temporary respite from the biting winds.

Dating back to 1905, the Dongdaemun Market is Korea’s largest wholesale and retail shopping district. With plenty of tasty food options and a plethora of vendors selling every clothing item imaginable, it was the perfect place to fill our stomachs and purchase some winter accessories.

• CHANGDEOKGUNG PALACE AND GARDENS

From the Dongdaemun Market, we decided to brave the cold and explore the city’s nearby temples. Google Maps indicated that there was a temple nearby, so we walked over to the Changdeokgung Palace for a visit.

Changdeokgung was originally built in 1405 as a secondary palace, but when Gyeongbokgung (Seoul’s principal royal residence) was destroyed during the Japanese invasion in the 1590s, it became the country’s primary palace until 1872. It remained in use well into the 20th century.

Behind the palace, a separate entrance ticket allows access to the secret gardens of the Changdeokgung Palace. A tour of the gardens lasts approximately forty minutes. Visiting Seoul in winter meant that we had the gardens largely to ourselves.

In the secret garden, a network of trails lead past pavillions, frozen ponds and dense forest.

It is here, in this tranquil setting, that Joseon kings retreated, studied and wrote poetry. The secret gardens are serene and peaceful. I can imagine that in warmer seasons, these serene gardens are a perfect place to escape the chaos of city life.

Following a tour of the Changdeokgung Palace and Gardens, we debated squeezing in a visit to the famous Gyeongbokgung Palace. But since nightfall was fast approaching and our fingers and toes began to grow numb with cold, we postponed our visit and treated ourselves to a tantalizing meal of Korean barbecue instead.

A hearty and satisfying choice after a half-day of walking through Seoul’s winter wonderland.

• GYEONGBOKGUNG PALACE

On the following day–donning a whole collection of new layers that I had acquired in the markets of Seoul–I picked up where I left off. My first stop was Gyeongbokgung, where I narrowly missed the 10am changing of the guards ceremony.

The Gyeongbokgung Palace is Seoul’s main tourist attraction, thanks to its long and storied history. The palace–one of South Korea’s most beautiful–is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and staple of just about every Seoul itinerary. Finished in 1395 during the reign of King Taejo, it is the largest of Seoul’s five grand palaces. Gyeongbokgung served as Korea’s main palace until it was burned to the ground in the 1500s.

In the 1800s, during the reign of Heungseon Daewongung, the palace was reconstructed to its former glory.

And today, the sprawling complex of over 5,000 rooms is one of the most iconic images of South Korea.

The area around Gyeongbokgung merits a full day of exploration. The temple grounds contain the National Palace Museum of Korea, the National Folk Museum and Bukchon Hanok Village—a wonderfully preserved neighborhood that dates back to the Joseon Dynasty.

• BUKCHON HANOK VILLAGE

The traditional village consists of winding alleyways and traditional houses called hanok, that are preserved to show a 600-year-old urban environment. The neighborhood is chock full of teahouses, museums, restaurants and guesthouses. It is a wonderful place in which to wander and step back in time—especially in winter, when its streets are largely free from the tourist throngs.

For those looking to experience the traditional side of South Korea, Bukchon Hanok Village is one of the best places to stay in Seoul.

• INSADONG

Bukchan Hanok may be the best place to experience Korean folk culture, but Insadong is the beating heart of Seoul’s contemporary art scene. The district represents Korean culture in past and present. Its atmosphere is modern, yet traditional–in a way that I found to be reflective of the country as a whole.

Filled with both traditional teahouses and high end shopping, this quirky vibrant neighborhood contains everything that I love about the this dynamic and historic city.

ADDITIONAL PLACES TO VISIT IN SEOUL

Our winter visit to Seoul did not include a visits to some of Seoul’s more modern attractions, since we wanted to focus our limited time on the city’s traditional heritage.

On a subsequent visit to Seoul with Dan, however, I was able to visit these three additional tourist attractions that I’ve included on Seoul’s list of must-see sights for those who have the time.

• THE DONGDAEMUN DESIGN PLAZA

Aside from the stunning world heritage-listed palaces of Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung and traditional streets of Bukchan Hanok Village, the Dongdaemun Design Plaza was my favorite place to visit in Seoul.

Designed by Zaha Hadid (the same British-Iraqi architect that designed the Heyder Aliyev Cultural Center in Baku Azerbaijan)—the plaza is an ingenious masterpiece of modern architecture.

• MYEONGDONG

While Isadong is the place to go for art and souvenirs, Myeongdong is one of Seoul’s most popular shopping destinations.

The Myeongdong Shopping District boasts flashy billboards and a dizzying display of lights. Reminiscent to Dotonburi in Osaka and Shibuya in Tokyo, the district is an eclectic jumble of bright lights, trendy shops, and tantalizing street food.

In winter, I imagine it is the perfect place to dip into a store, take a break from the cold, and buy a face mask (or three).

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Though I recommend visiting South Korea when the weather is warmer, there is something serenely beautiful about visiting Seoul in winter—when a dusting of white snow blankets the temples. I had the sites largely to myself. Few other tourist roamed around the temple grounds, and tour groups were largely absent.

I left Korea with plenty of things on my Seoul to-do list. Next time, I hope to hike into the surrounding mountains, discover traditional villages and take a day tour to the DMZ. I could have easily spent more than two days in Seoul, but I know I’ll be back. 

Because after spending two wonderful winter days in Seoul, I’m sure of two things: that the city merits more than just a passing glance, and that I’ll enjoy Seoul even more when I’m not so preoccupied with keeping warm. 

The post Seoul in Winter: Two Chilly Days in South Korea’s Capital appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Angkor Wat is an enduring example of humanity’s devotion to its deities. A sprawling temple complex of crumbling palaces, ruined sculptures and holy places of worship, it is the largest religious structure on Earth.

There are few places on the planet that rival the staggering and mysterious beauty of Angkor Wat. The glorious temple is the heart and soul of Cambodia: it is the country’s premier tourist attraction, its national symbol, and the epicenter of Khmer civilization.

THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR

Angkor Wat is the undeniable highlight of travel to Cambodia. The largest temple in the entire Angkor complex, its name has become synonymous with the archaeological site as a whole.

The entire complex of temples at Angkor consists of over 72 religious structures. The cluster of temples is both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most famous landmarks in the world. It is one of the world’s greatest human-engineered marvels—rivaling the Great Wall of China, the Pyramids of Giza and the Nabethean city of Petra.

There are two popular loops around the temple complex: the long circuit and the short circuit. During our three days in Siem Reap, we chose to explore both of the loops.

We started with the smaller sites of the big loop and worked our way to the majestic Angkor Wat.

TEMPLES OF ANGKOR: THE GRAND CIRCUIT

The Grand Circuit tour of Angkor encompasses temples that lie on the outskirts of the main complex. Also sometimes referred to as the “Big Circuit,” it includes the temples of Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som and East Mebon.

Though these temples are some of Angkor’s smaller attractions, they are nonetheless worth visiting.

• PREAH KHAN TEMPLE

Our first stop was Preah Khan–a temple that consists of a series of unrestored rectangular courtyards.

The temple of Preah Khan is one of the largest complexes at Angkor and a highlight of the Big Circuit. It boasts a maze of vaulted corridors, ornate carvings and lichen-clad stonework.

Though Preah Khan’s ornate artisanship is on full display, much of the temple has been consumed by the surrounding jungle.

Since 1991, the World Monuments Fund has maintained Preah Khan and ensured its structural integrity. Recreating the temple’s original engravings would involve too much guesswork, so the WMF has cautiously proceeded with light restoration efforts.

As it stands, the ongoing work at Preah Khan has struck a balance between preserving artisanship and respecting the ruined nature of the temple and its encroaching forest.

• NEAK PEAN TEMPLE

From Preah Khan, we continued onward, to Neak Pean.

Neak Pean sits on an island, completely surrounded by a reservoir of silvery water. The walk to the temple leads visitors along a wooden footbridge that crosses the water. Skeletal trees emerge from its blue-grey resevior, thrusting their spindly arms skyward.

Neak Pean was originally designed for medical purposes. A hospital built by Jayavarman VII, the temple embodies the ancient Hindu belief of balance between the elements. The four connected pools of wate  represent the four elements and are entirely symmetrical.

Historically, the devotees of Angkor believed that soaking in the pools of water would balance the elements and, thus, cure disease.

• TA SOM TEMPLE

The Temple of Ta Som was built at the end of the twelfth century, while King Jayavarman VII ruled the Khmer Empire.

Like its neighboring temples, Ta Som lies in a state of semi-ruin. Trees and other native vegetation burst through crevices in the rock. One of the most prominent features of the site is a huge strangler fig tree that has engulfed the temple’s eastern gate.

Ta Som is one of the smaller Khmer temples, but it still provides plenty of enticing photo opportunities.

• PRE RUP TEMPLE

We skipped Pre Rup during our Large Circuit tour, since we had visited the temple for sunset on our first night in Siem Reap. However, Pre Rup is a frequent inclusion in the Big Circuit loop.

Pre Rup is among the top sunset-viewing destinations in Angkor due to its elevated platform that allows you to watch the sun descend below the surrounding jungle. Its extensive brickwork gives the temple a reddish tone tone that is particularly striking during the golden hour.

Pre Rup has a square layout. It consists of a multi-tiered pyramid-shaped structure. The temple’s name means  ‘turning the body’ and refers to a traditional method of cremation in which the body’s outline is traced with ashes and rotated.

Due in part to its name, some suggest that the temple may have served as an early royal crematorium.

• EAST MEBON

The East Mebon Temple stands on a small island in the middle of the Eastern Baray—a now-dried historical wetland fed by the Siem Reap River. The temple was once accessible only by boat.

Today the Eastern Baray, once a source of water for irrigation, is an open field.

Like Pre Rup, the multi-tiered temple is topped off by a quintet of towers. Its location and design reflects the importance of orientation and cardinal directions in Khmer civilization. The temple was built on a north–south axis with Pre Rup.

• BANTEAY SREI

Most large loop tours return to Siem Reap after visiting East Mebon, but we decided to add the ornate and delicate rose-colored temple of Banteay Srei to our itinerary.

Dedicated to God Shiva, this intricate temple lies four kilometers beyond the Large Circuit. The temple itself is small, but its stonework is unrivaled.

Sometimes deemed the “jewel of Khmer art,” its impeccably-preserved reliefs contain images of goddesses, animals and flowering trees.

THE SMALL CIRCUIT LOOP AT ANGKOR WAT

Even temple aficionados run the risk of being a bit temple’d out after a visit to Angkor. The archeological site’s riches are just so great that, after a while, it is easy to dismiss the beauty of the area’s smaller and less ornate structures. In order to minimize temple burnout and prolong our sense of awe, we saved the the Small Circuit for our second day.

Three of Angkor’s most splendid temples–Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Phrom– lie along the park’s Small Circuit. 

• ANGKOR WAT TEMPLE

Our Small Circuit tour began at Angkor Wat—the area’s largest and most well-preserved temple. Though the name ‘Angkor Wat’ is practically synonymous with the entire archeological complex of Angkor, it also refers to the site’s main attraction.

Angkor Wat’s splendor is the love-child of creativity and spiritual devotion. Figuratively, it is heaven on Earth–representing both Mount Meru (the center of the Earth in Hindu cosmolegy) and the dwelling of ancient gods.

Soaring skyward and surrounded by a moat of glassy water, Angkor Wat is incredibly well preserved.

Almost every inch of this immense complex is covered with intricate carvings and motifs. Wrapping around the outside of the central temple, sits an 800 meter long bas relief that depicts historical events and stories from Khmer mythology.

The ultimate statement of Khmer architecture, Angkor Wat is the largest religious building in the world. Aesthetically, it embodies the perfect blend of symbolism and symmetry.

Even if you’re pressed for time and only have one day in Siem Reap, this is where you’ll want to focus your itinerary. In an area overflowing with historical riches, this colossal temple is the undeniable crown jewel.

• ANGKOR THOM

Near Angkor Wat, the impressive complex of Angkor Thom merits at least an hour of exploration.

Symbolically, Angkor Thom is a microcosm of the universe, divided into four equal parts by its main axes. Its centerpiece, the Temple of Bayon, is situated at the intersection of these axes and stands as the symbolic link between heaven and Earth.

Angkor Thom is a wonder of Khmer artisanship. Its bas reliefs are incredibly intricate and well preserved. More than 200 faces of Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara adorn the 54 towers in the Angkor Thom Complex—representing an audacious political statement about the change from Hinduism to Mahayana Buddhism.

• TA PHROM TEMPLE

Last but not least, our guide took us to the atmospheric Ta Phrom temple, made famous in the filming of Tomb Raider.

As with some of the smaller temples we visited during our Large Circuit tour, Ta Phrom appears to have been consumed by the jungle–its crumbling walls locked in the embrace of a sprawling root systems. Trees grow out of the temple’s walls, strangling its intricate structures.

In some places, the temple is remarkably well preserved. In others, tangled roots seem to have swallowed the entire building whole.

Unlike some of the temples that have been better restored, Ta Phrom looks very much the way Angkor’s monuments must have appeared when European explorers first stumbled upon them: Magical, mysterious and lost in time.

SUNRISE AT ANGKOR WAT

Like Bagan and Borobudur, the temples of Angkor are particularly striking at sunrise and sunset.

We visited the Angkor Wat Temple at sunrise as part of our Small Circuit tour. Alongside throngs of other people waving their selfie sticks in the air, we found a spot to sit near the banks of the lake and we waited amongst a frenzy of camera-toting tourists.

Visiting the Angkor Wat at sunrise is a top bucket list experience. Each morning, throngs of people attempt to capture its  lofty spires against the pink and purple sky.

If you plan on visiting Angkor Wat at sunrise, arrive early. By the time we arrived at the temple, at 4:30am, crowds of people had already snagged the best sunrise-viewing spots.

ANGKOR WAT SUNSET

On our first evening in Siem Reap, we hired a tuk tuk driver to take us to the Pre Rup temple for sunset. Pre Rup—alongside Phnom Bakheng and Srah Srang—is among Angkor’s most famous sunset locations.

Truth be told, however, I was surprised by the throngs of people that flocked to Pre Rup at sundown. For, aside from the fact that the temple provides an elevated viewing platform, the sunset view has no defining characteristics or silhouetted shapes in the foreground.

I craned my neck to catch a glimpse of the sinking sun, but quickly decided to seek out a different vantage point, away from the crowds.

During peak times, the temples of Angkor are crowded. So in order to experience Angkor without the crowds, I scrambled back down the temple stairs, to a quiet corner of the complex.

There, I found myself completely alone. And in silence and solitude, I was able to capture Pre Rup’s spires against the fiery skies.

ANGKOR WAT ENTRANCE FEES

We bought a three day pass to Angkor’s temples ($62) and spent the following two days exploring the archeological site’s main attractions by tuk tuk.

Compared to the rest of Cambodia, visiting the Temples of Angkor is expensive. Yet the costly entrance fee is a small price to pay considering the incredible reward that awaits.

If you’re spending three days or more in Siem Reap, consider buying a multi-day pass for the temples in order to save money and cover more ground. Single day tickets to Angkor Wat cost $37. Three day tickets to Angkor Wat are $62 and week-long tickets cost $72.

GETTING AROUND ANGKOR WAT

Angkor Wat is huge. The archaeological site’s various temples are spread out over 402 sprawling acres of jungle-clad landscape. Traveling the area on foot is both time-consuming and inefficient. Most people (including us) choose to hire a tuk tuk driver when visiting the temple complex. Tuk tuk drivers are everywhere and easy to find. Most hotels in town can help you find a reputable driver.

If you want to explore the ruins independently, another option is to visit Angkor Wat by bicycle. There are inexpensive bike rental options in Siem Reap that will set you back about $10 per day.

Exploring on two wheels gives you the ultimate flexibility to go at your own pace. However, Keep in mind that Cambodia’s hot and sticky climate can make for an uncomfortable ride.

SIEM REAP: GATEWAY TO ANGKOR WAT

Thanks to the temples of Angkor Wat, Cambodia’s tourism industry–long dormant due to political instability in the late 1900s– is booming. And with its rising popularity, the nearby town of Siem Reap has joined Phnom Penh, Koh Rong and Kampot as a permanent fixture on the Cambodia backpacker circuit.

Siem Reap is the gateway to Angkor Wat and the launching pad for tours to the UNESCO-recognized temple complex.

While our Siem Reap itinerary focused on temple-hopping, we enjoyed exploring the town as well. In the evenings, after visiting the temples of Angkor, we spent our time strolling through night market, eating delicious food, and drinking one too many mojitos.

While I only spent three days in Siem Reap, I wish I’d had more time to dedicate to the bustling city. With a few additional days in Siem Reap, I would have included visits to Tonle Sap Lake and the floating village of Kampong Khleang.

WHERE TO STAY IN SIEM REAP

Travel costs in Southeast Asia–and Cambodia in particular–are quite economical as a whole. So even the most luxurious places to stay in Siem Reap are quite affordable by international standards.

At the lower end of the cost spectrum, The Elephant offers high ratings, cheap rooms, a pool, and a spa. It appears to have an exceptional value for the price.

If you’re looking for a midrange option, the Eightfold Urban Resort boasts clean rooms and a lovely shaded garden and pool.

And if cost isn’t an issue, the Treeline Urban Resort offers contemporary rooms in a riverside setting.

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The archeological complex of Angkor is one of humankind’s most enduring achievements. And simply put, no trip to Southeast Asia would be complete without a few days of exploring its ancient ruins.

During our three days in Siem Reap, I enjoyed temple-going by day and relaxing at night.

It was a perfect few days–combining wild nature, ancient history, sumptuous food and utter relaxation.

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The post Visiting Angkor Wat: Travel Guide and Itinerary appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Cambodia is a small, landlocked country with a rich heritage and a dark past. Both home to one of the world’s greatest civilizations and one of the 20th century’s greatest tragedies, the country’s history is at once proud, multi-layered, complex and heartbreaking.

In Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh, the country’s rich heritage and tragic past collide. The city can be an assault on the senses, like a mellower version of Bangkok. With gleaming golden temples and lush vegetation lining its frenetic streets, it is vibrant and intoxicating. In Phnom Penh, motorbikes whiz through narrow streets; crowds of people stroll along the banks of the Mekong; flowering trees line ramshackle laneways, tangled in a web of telephone wires.

Yet residing alongside its glimmering golden palaces and riverside promenades, Phnom Penh houses some of the world’s most horrific displays of human nature at its darkest. What struck me most during my visit to Cambodia’s capital city, is the way in which the city’s past and present– the former ravaged and grieving, the latter jovial and hopeful–can live side by side.

ONE DAY PHNOM PENH ITINERARY

With just one day in Phnom Penh, we spent our morning wandering the city’s leafy promenades, peaking into its gold-gilded temples and soaking in the frenzied bustle of its lively streets.

We stayed at the Palm Tree Boutique Hotel for two nights during our stay in Phnom Pehn. The hotel, located within walking distance of the main sites downtown, was a clean, quiet and peaceful retreat.

Spending only one day in Phnom Penh, meant we had limited time to visit the city’s must-see attractions. Our first stop was Phnom Penh’s royal compound, located in the heart of the city. Following a tour of the city’s architectural highlights, we delved into its dark and tragic past.

• THE ROYAL PALACE OF PHNOM PENH

The Royal Palace is the lavish residence of Cambodia’s king. With slanted roofs and shimmering gold spires, it reminded me in many ways of Bangkok’s Royal Palace.

The site’s ten dollar entrance fee includes a visit to the adjacent Temple of the Silver Pagoda. Also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the Temple of the Silver Pagoda is famous for its glistening silver-gilded floor. The floor today is mostly concealed by carpets and, thus, rarely visible to visitors.

Khmer art lines the walls of the royal residences and reveals Cambodia’s rich artistic heritage.

After a packed morning of visiting the temples and shrines of downtown Phnom Penh, we decided to hire a tuk tuk driver that would take us to the Killing Fields of Cheoung Ek–an extermination site used during the times of the Khmer Rouge.

• THE KILLING FIELDS OF CHEOUNG EK

The Khmer Rouge ruled Cambodia from April 17, 1975, until January 1979. The party’s aim was to establish a classless communist country based on the rejection of capitalism and the establishment of an agrarian state. In attempting to create its utopian communist state, the army employed violent measures that resulted in the deaths of millions.

Visiting Cheoung Ek is chilling to the bone. As we listened to the audio guide that directed us around the execution site, we heard stories of survivors, of people who had narrowly escaped death and of those who lost everything and everyone during the times of the Khmer Rouge.

First they Killed my Father is terrifying memoir about life under Pol Pot’s regime. I first learned about the book when traveling to Cambodia, and read it following my return to the United States. The book–a poignant look at the brutal regime through the eyes of a young girl– is an essential book to read while traveling to Cambodia.

• THE S-21 PRISON IN PHNOM PENH

From the Killing Fields, our tuk tuk driver brought us to the S-21 Prison–a converted high school located in the outskirts of Phnom Penh. Between 1975 and 1978, approximately 17,000 men, women and children were detained and tortured at S-21, before being transported to the extermination camp of Choeung Ek.

Today, S-21 is known as the Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide. Once known as Svay Pray High School, the ex-prison is an oddly serene and peaceful place, where visitors can learn of the horrors that unfolded here decades ago. Inside its gates, S-21 looks like any high school–complete with courtyard-facing classrooms, monkey bars and leafy trees.

A visit to the S-21 Prison allows tourists access to interrogation rooms and prison cells. The spartan interrogation rooms are furnished with only a school desk and a steel bed frame with shackles at each end.

As with the Killing Fields, entrance to S-21 includes an audioguide that is loaded with powerful testimonies from survivors.

Lining the walls, are the stories and faces of those who perished.

Of the 14,000 people known to have entered the S-21 prison, only seven survived.

DARK TOURISM IN CAMBODIA: IS IT ETHICAL?

In college, I took a course called Anthropology of Tourism. In the course, we debated the ethics of visiting centers of torture and extermination. Is it ethical to participate in dark tourism? Is it wrong to commodify these places–places that have elicited such horror and trauma–and package them for the curious tourist? It is a tricky question, but I think the answer lies in intent. And perhaps, before visiting, we should ask ourselves an important question: are we traveling to these places to heighten our understanding, or are we simply hoping to scratch them off our bucket lists?

Visiting the Holocaust Museum, the Armenian Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields can be powerful in helping us make sense of unfathomable events from the past, as well as events–perhaps not so dissimilar–that are taking place today (think: Isis, the modern-day slave trade in Libya, the famines in North Korea).

Today, around the world, we see countries struggling with a fate similar to that of Cambodia in the 1970s. How will these countries emerge from such dark times? How will their citizens slowly begin the process of healing? How will the world remember those who have perished?

Visiting sites of terror and death cannot solve future conflicts in and of itself. But if the intent is to understand–to truly understand how ordinary people can be capable of committing such extraordinary crimes–then perhaps we can give humanity to those caught up in the turmoil. It is important to remember history as it happened. Because when we forget the consequences of war and negate the humanity of those who perished, we create an environment that is ripe for repeating.

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Further Reading: 

• After our day in Phnom Penh, we traveled to Siem Reap in order visit one of humankind’s greatest achievements–the incredible temples of Angkor Wat.

The post One Day in Phnom Penh: Dark Tourism in the Pearl of Asia appeared first on Erika's Travels .