Egypt is full of bucket list attractions: the Pyramids of Giza, the Great Sphinx, the Valley of the Kings, and the Egyptian Museum, to name a few. These archeological sites reveal an ancient history of unrivaled richness that has greatly influenced the world we live in today.

Yet, while most tourists visit Egypt for its historical treasures, the country’s natural wonders are equally captivating. Experiencing Egypt’s White Desert on an overnight tour reveals a landscape draped in mystery and intrigue, where nature’s delicate geologic formations rival some of the country’s greatest human-engineered creations.

THE WHITE DESERT IN EGYPT

The White Desert lies roughly 175km southwest of the Bahariya Oasis. It is the crown jewel of Egypt’s Western Desert, and one of the most distinctive natural landscapes in North Africa.  Characterized by its brilliant chalk spires that resemble icebergs in a sea of sand, it a vast and barren expanse of elemental beauty.

The White Desert’s ethereal rock formations sprout almost supernaturally from the ground. Like clouds, they take on shapes both familiar and unfamiliar—sculpted by desert winds over millennia.

The White Desert itself is the highlight of many overnight tours to Egypt’s Western Desert, but it is by no means the only place to visit in the area. All around, the parched landscapes of western Egypt give way to lunar topographies and otherworldly views.

WHITE DESERT TOUR WITH DAHAB HOSTEL

We chose to book a White Desert tour with Dahab Hostel, despite the frustrations we experienced with their Nile River cruise. At only $85 per person, the price of the overnight desert tour was simply unbeatable.

Our tour included shared transport to the Bahariya Oasis, lunch at a hotel, jeep transport into the Black and White Deserts, a barbecue buffet dinner, and a night of camping under the area’s scintillating blanket of stars.

GETTING TO THE WHITE DESERT

Like mashrutkas in Eastern Europe, trotros in Ghana, and combis in Southern Africa, cramped minivans that leave when full are a popular mode of transport in Egypt.  We soon learned that Dahab Hostel’s low tour price is due—in large part—to the fact that it uses this popular form of local transport for travel between Cairo and the Bahariya Oasis.

On the day of our departure, we woke up early and caught a taxi to the minibus station. There, we waited for the desert-bound minivan to fill with passengers. But the slow trickle of people caused us to wait for more than two hours, with no sign of the van filling up.

Finally, afraid that we would miss all the best daylight hours of our tour, Dan and I paid an extra $10 per person and convinced the driver to leave early.

If your Egypt budget allows, I recommend shopping around for White Desert tour options. Most other companies offer private 4X4 transport between Cairo and Bahariya. They are, however, significantly more expensive.

Since Dan and I each saved over $100 by taking a tour with Dahab Hostel, we were happy to shell out a few extra dollars in order to expedite our trip to the Bahariya Oasis. We figured that the earlier we made it to our destination, the more time we would be able to spend in the Black and White Deserts.

THE BAHARIYA OASIS

The Bahariya Oasis is probably the most accessible oasis in Egypt and the gateway to the country’s great sand sea. Human settlement in the area dates back to ancient Egyptian times, when it was a major agricultural center. Today, the oasis town still produces large quantities of dates, mangos, and guavas.

The Bahariya Oasis itself was not a part of our White Desert tour itinerary. From the limited time I spent in the area, I could tell it was worlds away from Cairo. About 35,000 people live in Bahariya. The population is mostly Beduin, and largely conservative. Few women roam the streets, and most of those that do are clad in black from head to toe.

Once we arrived in Bahariya, we met our guide and transferred to the Ahmed Safari Camp for lunch. There, we teamed up with five other travelers for an unforgettable overnight adventure into one of the most geologically interesting swaths of the Sahara.

THE BLACK DESERT

The desert around the Bahariya Oasis is flat, bleak and uninspiring. About 50km south of the oasis, however, a change in the desert floor’s textures and colors signals the beginning of the Black Desert.

Egypt’s Black Desert looks as though it has been torched from the area’s intense summer sun.

When we reached the charred landscape, our tour guide let us out of the car for about 20 minutes and suggested we scramble up one of the area’s conical peaks.

From our elevated vantage point, we could see hundreds of ebony-plated peaks extend skyward, interrupting the monotony of their beige surroundings.

CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN

From the Black Desert, we continued onward, to Crystal Mountain—a massive rock made entirely of quartz. The sparkly hunk of rock lies just off the main road and is a popular attraction on Egypt desert tours.

As with the Black Desert, our 20 minute pitstop at Crystal Mountain gave us minimal time to explore the area.

Regardless, found enough time to scramble up the mountain, examine its unique sparkly surface, and revel in our gold-tinted Wadi-Rum-like environs.

THE AGABAT VALLEY

From Crystal Mountain, our 4×4 jeep turned off the main road and pummeled over the sand, up a mountainside, and into the Agabat Valley.

When we reached Agabat, Dan and I gasped in unison. We immediately began to understand the spell that Egypt’s desert landscapes cast on travelers.

A vast panorama of dunes swirled around the base of gold-colored monoliths. patches of white chalk scattered among the sand like dollops of freshly whipped cream. It was magical. Enchanting. Breathtaking.

And unlike the Pyramids of Giza or the archeological sites that we visited up and down the Nile, the Agabat Valley in Egypt’s Western Desert was remarkably crowd-free.

The driver of our 4×4 vehicle navigated the deep sands of the Agabat Valley like a seasoned professional.

I was beginning to realize that—despite its apparent disorganization at the start—our tour to the White Desert with Dahab Hostel was turning out to be an undeniable highlight of our Egypt itinerary.

WHITE DESERT ROCK FORMATIONS

The classic landscapes of Egypt’s White Desert begin beyond the Agabat Valley. Here, far from civilization, a forest of chalk spires rises from the Earth’s sandy surface in a whimsical display of nature at its best.

The rock formations of the White Desert in Egypt are textbook examples of ventifact. This phenomenon occurs when wind blows sand particles a few feet above the earth. Over time, the bouncing sand grains erode the lower portions rock, while leaving larger caps.

Like children trying to determine the shapes of clouds, Dan and I found ourselves peering out the car window and calling out the shapes of rocks as they zoomed past us. Some chalk spires resembled animals, others looked like people. Some resembled pillow-top mushrooms, others reached toward the sky like amorphous lopsided blobs.

CAMPING IN THE WHITE DESERT

As we reached the White Desert, the setting winter sun cast shadows over the landscape. I was grateful that we arrived in the area in time for sunset. I was even able to capture a few photos of my surroundings before the sky faded to black.

Meanwhile, our guide set up camp. He cooked us a delicious meal—one of the best we had during our entire monthlong trip through Egypt and Sudan—and kept a fire going for much of the night.

A few other White Desert camping tour groups were scattered about the distance, but we were otherwise completely isolated.

Since I’d heard many traveler’s rave about the stars in western Egypt, I was initially disappointed that we visited the White Desert during a full moon. I feared that increased light would drown out the stars.

But as it turns out, visiting during a full moon is magical in its own right. I wager it might even be more magical than seeing the area under a blanket of stars.

For on full moon nights, the desert’s chalk formations shine in the darkness like glow-in-the-dark mushrooms. They illuminate the surrounding landscape long after nightfall—making it possible to explore the surreal landscape even hours after the sun has set.

IS THE WHITE DESERT SAFE FOR VISITORS?

On a whole, the Black and White Deserts in Egypt are safe for visitors.

However, because of instability in neighboring Libya, there is still a low risk of crime and kidnapping in the area. The Egyptian army has little control over the vast stretches of land west of Cairo.

I have no reservations in recommending Western Desert tours, as travelers are unlikely to encounter problems in the area.

As always, however, I encourage you to stay up to date with current advisories and take normal precautions.

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Egypt’s historical and archeological gems are undeniable. They represent some of the most iconic and beloved tourist attractions on Earth.

Yet, our tour to the Black and White Deserts in Egypt’s western reaches, proves that—in addition to housing human-made treasures of great importance—the country is home to natural wonders that are older than the pyramids and as sublime as any temple.

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Over the past few decades, Sudan has made headlines for all the wrong reasons. As a result, the country’s name often conjures images of bloodshed and brutal dictatorships, while its wealth of treasures have been all but ignored. Most people are not even aware that, beneath Sudan’s shifting grains of sand, lie remnants of an empire that once rivaled Ancient Egypt. Or that the country contains more pyramids than any other place in the world.

Sudan offers an unexpected array of things to do, places to see, and experiences to be had. It is a country that boasts tremendous attractions, heaps of natural beauty, and a population that is among the friendliest in the world.

Sure, traveling in Sudan is not for the inexperienced adventurer. Obtaining a visa can be tricky and confusing. Hotel booking websites are largely inaccessible. Information on the tourist attractions in Sudan is scant, at best.

But with a little effort, the vast swath of land flanking the Upper Nile is a wonderland for intrepid adventurers. It is a country that is as welcoming as it is challenging, and as beautiful as it is undiscovered.

TRAVEL IN SUDAN: AN OVERLAND ADVENTURE

Dan and I traveled to Sudan as part of a larger Egypt vacation. We combined the two countries into one trip because of their inextricably linked histories. Creating a comprehensive Egypt and Sudan itinerary would give our trip continuity and allow us to trace Egyptian Civilization throughout ancient history.

Our itinerary began with the Pyramids of Giza, and continued on a Nile cruise—past Luxor and Aswan—to Abu Simbel. From there, we returned to Cairo and flew to Khartoum for the Sudanese part of our Nile-side adventure.

Due to the offbeat nature of Sudan’s tourist attractions, we chose to explore the country on an overlanding tour with Dragoman. I’d traveled with Dragoman previously, on a three week tour through Togo, Benin and Ghana. In doing so, I’d learned how valuable it is to have someone plan the tricky logistics associated with traveling to off-the-beaten-path destinations in Africa.

With its limited infrastructure for independent travel, Sudan is no exception.

In order to facilitate our travels in Sudan, Dragoman took care of obtaining our Sudan visa invitation letter, setting up visa on arrival at the airport, and completing the registration process. It also allowed us to visit the top tourist attractions in Sudan without having to worry about navigating the roads, figuring out public transportation, or choosing places to wild camp.

TOP SUDAN TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

Sudan is a country replete with things to see. Its tourist attractions include fascinating urban delights, natural landmarks, and the long-lost relics of ancient civilizations. Our eight day overlanding tour with Dragoman began and ended in Khartoum. Along the loop,  it brought us to many of the top places to visit in Sudan—including the spectacular massif of Jebel Barkal, the solitary Temple of Soleb, the elaborate carvings of Naqa and Musawwarat, and the majestic Pyramids of Meroe.

THE OLD KINGDOM OF DONGOLA

After an orientation day in Khartoum, we hopped on our big orange tour truck and headed northward, into the reaches of the desert. The first stop on our Sudan itinerary was the deserted town of Old Dongola, halfway between Khartoum and the Egyptian border. Old Dongola lies at the center of Sudanese Christian tradition. It was once an important city in Medieval Nubia and the capital of the Makurian State.

For about an hour, we walked atop a blanket of pottery shards that probably should have belonged in museums, and admired ruins that once represented basilicas.

The Throne Hall of Old Dongola dates to the 5th century, though many of the city’s remaining structures are the product of subsequent generations. A 17th century Islamic cemetery with beehive tombs is a testament to the importance of Old Dongola in post-Medieval times as well.

Visiting Old Dongola may be one of the top things to do in Sudan, but we did not encounter any other tourists during our tour. The archeological site was completely deserted—like an abandoned ghost town that has been completely neglected by the world at large.

THE KERMA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

The second day of our Sudan tour brought us back in time, to the beginnings of the Kushite Kingdom. Kush is a Nubian land that lies between the first and fourth cataracts of the Nile, in modern-day Sudan. The legendary Kingdom of Kush helped define the political and cultural landscap of northeastern Africa for more than a thousand years.

The Ruins of Kerma are remnants of an the early Kushite Kingdom that ruled Nubia between 2450 BC and 1450 BC. The ancient city’s sprawling ruins center around a large adobe temple known as the Western Deffufa.

From the top of the ancient structure, a blueprint of the city stretches toward a forest of palms on the banks of the River Nile.

Kerma is one of the largest archaeological sites in ancient Nubia. It has produced decades of extensive excavations and research.

Today, aside from lumpy remnants of the Western Deffufa and the delineated markings of old living quarters, not much remains of Kerma’s once-powerful city.

Still, it is a fascinating place to visit and a testament to the little-known wonders that lie lost amongst the vast expanses of Sudan’s desert.

THE TEMPLE OF SOLEB

After visiting the remnants of the Kerma Kingdom, we continued toward the village of Wawa in time for nightfall. There, we settled into a small guesthouse and prepared for a sunrise visit to the Temple of Soleb the following morning.

To reach the Temple of Soleb from Wawa, we walked to the shores of the Nile through a groves of palms,  took a small boat across the river, and made our way past cultivated fields of beans and wheat. When we reached the confines of the archeological site, we found a place to sit and watch the sun illuminate the temple’s rose-hued columns.

The Temple of Soleb is the southernmost temple built by eighteenth dynasty Pharaoh Amenhotep III—the builder of the extraordinary Temple of Luxor in Egypt. It may be much more modest than its Egyptian counterpart, but Soleb’s comparative isolation makes it nonetheless evocative and magical.

Like most other tourist attractions in Ancient Egypt and Nubia, the Temple of Soleb sits on the banks of the Nile, where fertile palm groves give way to the desolation of the desert.

I imagine that reaching the Temple of Soleb is quite difficult without an organized tour or rental car. Despite being one of the top tourist attractions in Sudan, the Soleb Temple has no public transportation links and draws only a small trickle of tourists every year—making it all the more special for those who choose to make the haul.

THE NURI PYRAMIDS

Everyone has heard of the Pyramids of Egypt. The mighty ancient wonders are emblazoned on travel brochures, impressed on the imaginations of young scholars, and at the forefront of many travel bucket lists. Yet, few people know that Egypt only contains a small percentage of the ancient Pharaonic structures. In fact, Sudan claims dozens—if not hundreds—more pyramids than Egypt.

Situated near Jebel Barkal, the Nuri Pyramids are among the most impressive of their kind in Sudan.

We explored the Nuri Pyramids on the third day of our Sudan tour, following a sunrise visit to the Temple of Soleb.

The dilapidated Pyramids of Nuri—among the largest in Sudan—lie scattered amidst low-lying sand dunes. Dating from around the 7th century BC, they are the oldest and largest pyramids in Ancient Nubia.

We spent about an hour clambering around the archeological site and admiring the unobstructed views of its age-old treasures.

Once again, a lack of other tourists made our experience all the more surreal.

JEBEL BARKAL

From afar, Jebel Barkal is a nondescript lump of earth that rises above the sandy plains of north-central Sudan. Yet, upon closer examination, the sacred mountain reveals its magic.

Visiting Jebel Barkal is, without a doubt, one of the top things to do in Sudan. The sacred mountain boasts unparalleled views of the Nile River and its nearby pyramids and temples. And beneath its towering massif, it conceals the ruins of an ancient temple that has been consumed by the elements and nearly lost in time.

Following an afternoon visit to the Nuri Pyramids, our tour group scrambled to the top of Jebel Barkal for sunset.

I’m not sure what I expected of Jebel Barkal, but I certainly didn’t imagine it to be such a prominent highlight of our itinerary. Photos I found online did little justice to the area.

From its summit, surreal 360 degree panoramas took our breaths away. We could see a small pyramid grouping on one side, and unparalleled views of the Nile River  and Amun Temple on the other.

In 2003, the mountain (in conjunction with the historical city of Napata) was named a UNESCO World Heritage Sites. I can certainly understand why.

THE TEMPLE OF AMUN AT JEBEL BARKAL

The Napatan Ruins of Jebel Barkal represent the southernmost permanent settlement in the New Kingdom of Egypt. They are the main Nubian cult centre of the god Amun and were once of great importance to the Kushite Kingdom.

Napata was an ancient Nubian city, at the site of modern-day Karima. The entire complex encompasses both the Nuri Pyramids and the Temple of Amun at Jebel Barkal.

The Nubian king Piye expanded Barkal’s Amun temple complex, creating a southern version of the Amun temple at Thebes (near Luxor in modern-day Egypt).

Today, the great Amun Temple of Jebel Barkal lies largely in ruins. A few piles of rocks lies scattered about, and some statues of rams remain relatively well-preserved.

A small temple dedicated to Mut lies adjacent to the Amun Temple. The Mut temple contains two pillars adorned in carvings of the cow-headed goddess Hathor.

After about half an hour of exploring the area, our guide tracked down the keys to a small hidden chamber that lies hewn inside the rocks of Jebel Barkal, behind Mut’s temple. When we entered inside, we were wowed by the vivid and colorful depictions of Egyptian gods. We felt privy to a secret world that few know exist.

It was incredibly special.

THE MEROE PYRAMIDS: SUDAN’S TOP TOURIST ATTRACTION

The Meroe Pyramids are, without a doubt, the top place to visit in Sudan.  They are a mainstay of nearly every Sudan itinerary, and among Africa’s most impressive archeological sites. The Meroe Pyramids are a group of roughly 200 structures that are over 2,500 years old. Though smaller than the Great Pyramids of Giza and Dashur, the Pyramids of Meroe lie beautifully situated among low-lying dunes of blood-red sand.

The site’s  200 pyramids have varying levels of preservation. Most pyramids have no tops, thanks to an Italian treasure hunter who blew them off in the 19th century in order to loot their tombs for buried valuables.

Our group set up camp near the gates of the Meroe Pyramids Archeological Site, just over the dunes from the area’s main cluster of temples. The landscape surrounding our camp consisted of purple-hued hills, interrupted by a snaking sea of orange sand.

Despite the fact that the Meroe Pyramids are Sudan’s only well-established archeological site, we had the entire area to ourselves during our early-morning visit. For over an hour, we watched the sun rise above the majestic ruins and paint the surrounding landscape in warm shades of pastel.

It was surreal. Enchanting. Magical.

We visited the Meroe Pyramids on my 30th birthday. I couldn’t have asked for a more striking and memorable location to celebrate three decades on Earth.

THE MUSAWWARAT ES SUFRA TEMPLE

Musawarat es Sufra is the largest Meroitic temple complex in Sudan. Constructed in sandstone, the site’s main features include a Great Enclosure and a Lion Temple.

Though it resembles the temples of Egypt in many ways, Musawwarat es Sufra has distinct influences that are wholly unique to Sudanese temples. Most significant are the representations of elephants and other wild animals that once roamed around this region of Africa.

The engravings of lions, elephants and giraffes made Musawwarat es Sufra’s Great Enclosure one of the more interesting temples we saw during the entirety of our trip through Egypt and Sudan.

Situated a few hundred meters away from the Great Enclosure, the intricately-carved Lion Temple of Apedemak dates to the 3rd century BC. Its ornate reliefs are remarkably well preserved.

THE NAQA TEMPLE

Like Musawwarat es Sufra, Naqa lies in the heart of the Sudanese Desert. Its location away from the Nile makes it unique among the temples of Ancient Egypt and Nubia.

The Naqa archeological site consists of a large and well-preserved Temple of Amun that dates back to the first century BC. Notable features include a Hypostyle Hall with splendid columns and hieroglyphics, and a row of statues representing rams (reminiscent to those at the Karnak Temple in Luxor).

Another small Lion Temple lies within walking distance of the Amun Temple at Naqa. It has some of the most incredible exterior carvings of any place that we visited during our month in North Africa.

Adjacent to the Lion Temple, a stunning Roman kiosk boasts Hellenistic elements and floral embellishments.

Since there is so little travel literature on Sudan, I really didn’t know what to expect of the country’s Nubian temples. I hadn’t seen pictures of Musawwarat and Naqa prior to visiting, nor did I even know they existed.

I simply booked a tour to Sudan and let myself be slowly blown away by the unexpected magic that lies deep in the reaches of the Sahara.

KHARTOUM: SUDAN’S CAPITAL CITY

Our Sudan travels began and ended in Khartoum. So, at the tail end of our week-long adventure, Dan and I dedicated a day and a half to the country’s bustling capital city.

Khartoum isn’t exactly a beautiful city in the classical sense of the word. It is dusty and sprawling, and relatively lacking in things to see. Yet, situated at the confluence of the Blue and White Niles, Khartoum defies expectations with its pleasant atmosphere, laid-back vibe, and friendly residents. The city’s excellent museum, its fascinating markets and its idyllic Nile-side views make it a relaxing antidote to the hubbub of some of Africa’s other large metropolises.

• THE SUDAN NATIONAL MUSEUM

With limited time in Khartoum, visiting the Sudan National Museum should be a top priority. Though the museum’s collection of artifacts pales in comparison to that of Cairo’s Museum of Antiquities, its exhibits paint a picture of Nubian Civilization that I doubt can be rivaled anywhere else in the world.

Outside of the museum’s main enclosure, the three reassembled Nubian temples are some of the country’s finest architectural gems.

• THE FRIDAY SUFI GATHERING

You won’t see many tourists wandering the streets of Khartoum on a daily basis. But during the weekly Sufi ceremony that takes place every Friday, they all seem to emerge from the shadows.

On our last day in Sudan, we headed to to the Omdurman neighborhood of Khartoum for an opportunity to witness the Sudanese whirling dervishes.

Each Friday afternoon, at around 4pm, adherents of Sufism gather to dance and pray—attracting large crowds of observers and participants. Since the procession draws more tourists than just about anything else in Sudan, it also attracts large numbers of Sudanese youth hoping to improve their English.

The gathering isn’t exactly what one might expect of a typical whirling dervish ceremony, but the procession and chanting of red-and-green-clad faithfuls is a fascinating spectacle nonetheless.

• THE KHARTOUM CAMEL MARKET

On the morning of our departure from Khartoum, Dan and I chose to travel to the outskirts of the city in search of the sprawling camel market that takes place twice a week. Every Wednesday and Saturday, hundreds of people travel to Khartoum’s outskirts for what I can only assume is one of the world’s great camel markets.

Reminiscent to the livestock market in Karakol Kyrgyzstan, it is a place in which vendors and buyers converge to barter for the finest animals in the area.

• THE CONVERGENCE OF THE BLUE AND WHITE NILES

The great Nile River sustains life in one of the harshest habitats on earth. Since Khartoum lies at the convergence of the Blue and White Niles, its location provides an opportunity to witness the place in which two tributaries combine to create the longest river on Earth.

Though I wouldn’t prioritize it over a visit to the Sufi gathering or museum, a boat trip up the Nile is worthwhile for those who have the time.

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Traveling to Sudan had been on the back of my mind since I first laid my eyes on a photo of the Meroe Pyramids.

I don’t know what it was about the photo that left me breathless, but I can only assume it had to do with the fact that such a remarkable wonder of the world remains largely secret. I knew I would find a way of visiting, safety permitting.

Traveling in Sudan is by no means easy or straightforward. The visa hassle alone discourages many travelers from setting foot on the country’s sandy soil. Add that to Sudan’s lack of public transit infrastructure, its elevated position on most travel advisory lists, and its lackluster accommodation options. It is no wonder so few people choose to visit.

Yet, Sudan and its people deserve more credit than they receive. The country is safe, beyond hospitable, and replete with jaw-dropping tourist attractions.

For adventurers willing to put in a little extra effort, the rewards of seeing some of the world’s greatest wonders without anyone else in sight, are truly indescribable.

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The Nile River is the blood that flows through Egypt’s veins. Over the course of 5,000 years, it has sustained civilizations and allowed them to flourish in an otherwise inhospitable land. Without the waters of the Nile, Ancient Egypt would have never existed. And consequently, it is thanks to this great river that today’s world has things like paper, makeup, writing and irrigation.

The banks of the Nile in Upper Egypt (geographically the lower part of the country) lay claim to one of the world’s largest open air museums. Boasting ancient tombs adorned in colorful reliefs and temples preserved for millennia beneath layers of desert sand, the Nile River Valley is a place of unparalleled historical wealth and unrivaled cultural significance.

NILE CRUISE FROM LUXOR TO ASWAN

In order to best explore the sites along the Nile, Dan and I booked a four day tour with Dahab Hostel in downtown Cairo. The tour package consisted of a three day Nile cruise and one night in a Luxor hotel. The cruise itinerary included a comfortable cabin, three meals per day, transport and guides. For $350 per person, we felt as though we were getting a great deal. And what’s more, the tour included a free hot air balloon ride in Luxor and a free day trip to the Saqqara and Dashur Pyramids near Cairo.

Yet, while we found the package deal to be cheaper than other Luxor-Aswan cruise options, we soon learned why. From start to finish, the Nile cruise was a comedy of errors that left us guessing, frustrated, and downright confused.

When we booked our Nile cruise, we did not know the company we would be traveling with, or any details pertaining to our itinerary. We merely jumped at the opportunity to book a tour with Dahab Hostel, since we couldn’t refuse the advertised price.

It became immediately apparent, however, that the tour would consist of a series of moving parts that each work independently of one another. Each step of the way, we were told what our next activity would be: nothing more, nothing less. None of the drivers or guides could answer our itinerary-related questions, nor did they know any of the tour logistics outside of their immediate responsibilities. At one point, we even woke up unnecessarily for a 5am hot air balloon ride that never materialized. After waiting in the hotel lobby for nearly two hours, we found out that it was actually scheduled for the following day.

I have no way of knowing if our experience was an anomaly, or if all Egypt cruise packages require a test of patience. I’m fully aware that we visited during a particularly busy week of the year, and that slower months may offer visitors a more relaxed travel experience.

There are dozens of different cruise lines that travel between Luxor and Aswan. They might all have slightly different aesthetics and cater to varying budgets, but they all follow the same itinerary, as if part of a caravan.

OUR NILE CRUISE ITINERARY

From Cairo, our Nile Valley tour included an overnight train to Luxor. There, Dan and I spent the night at a hotel and had the liberty of exploring the city’s sites on our own, before the start of our cruise to Aswan.

Following visits to both the East Bank and West Bank of Luxor, we boarded the Chateau Lafayette and sailed to Aswan. Along the way, we stopped at the temples of Edfu and Kom Ombo.

And finally, on the day we were scheduled to return to Cairo by overnight train, we squeezed in visits to Abu Simbel (nearly 6 hours away round trip), the Philae Temple, and the Aswan High Dam.

It was a whirlwind itinerary that consisted of boatloads of confusion (literally), awkward New Year’s Eve dance parties, and visits to Egypt’s most impressive and beautiful temples.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN TEMPLES ALONG THE NILE

The temples of Egypt are a string of superb UNESCO-recognized wonders that lie scattered along the banks of the Nile. The fertile plains boast an embarrassment of riches that extend from the Mediterranean Sea, to the deserts of Sudan.

Within the span of three days, we crammed in as many temples as we could, stuffed our brains with as much new information as possible (thanks to the History of Egypt Podcast on Spotify), and left knowing a whole lot more about the mysterious and magical world of Ancient Egypt.

THE TEMPLE’S OF LUXOR’S EAST BANK

Luxor is one of the world’s greatest open air museums, and the heart of Upper Egypt. The city—known as Thebes in ancient times—boasts some of the oldest and best preserved monuments of the ancient world.

The undeniable highlights of Luxor’s East Bank are the outstanding twin temples of Luxor and Karnak.

• THE KARNAK TEMPLE

The Karnak Temple is an extraordinary complex of sanctuaries, pylons and obelisks dedicated to the Theban Triad (the Egyptian god Amun, his wife Mut, and their son, Khonsu). The temple is huge; large enough to contain ten cathedrals.

Barring the Pyramids of Giza, it is the most awe-inspiring of Egypt’s ancient wonders.

The Great temple of Amun is the pinnacle of Egyptian architectural relics. At its heart, lies the Hypostyle Hall—a 6,000 square meter room that contains a forest of decorated colonnades.

Our Nile River cruise itinerary allocated only an hour’s visit to Karnak. However, thank’s to a scheduling snafu that gave us an extra day in Luxor, we took an entire afternoon to explore the site on our own. Armed with a dated Bradt Guide and a solid pair of walking shoes, we spent four hours admiring the temple’s hieroglyphs, reading about its significance, and  exploring its smaller rooms and ceremonial complexes.

Visiting Karnak on our own gave us the freedom to explore the lesser-known areas of the archeological site. We admired the Temple of Khonsu, found a wall containing the world’s first documented peace treaty, and gazed out over the Avenue of the Sphinxes.

Then, after meticulously studying the temple from top to bottom and side to side, we met up with our guide and headed to the Luxor Temple.

• THE LUXOR TEMPLE

The Luxor Temple sits at the heart of modern-day Luxor. New Kingdom pharaohs, Amenhotep III and Ramses II, built the temple for ceremonial purposes.  During the annual Opet celebrations, statues of the Theban Triad were brought from Karnak to Luxor in a procession of barques, along the Avenue of Sphinxes.

In the centuries following the decline of Ancient Egypt, sand and silt buried Luxor’s magnificent temple and aided in the preservation of its stunning reliefs. Atop the temple, subsequent generations built a bustling town complete with mud-brick houses and shops. In the 14th century, residents of Luxor constructed a mosque atop the buried temple.

When archeologists began excavating the Luxor Temple in 1885, they cleared away the surrounding village structures and relocated much of the city’s population.

The mosque, however, still remains.

The Temple of Luxor illustrates Egypt’s historical legacies. Toward the back of the temple, an antechamber reveals walls that the Romans plastered over and converted into a Christian chapel.

The chapel’s colorful depictions are still visible today.

THE THEBAN NECROPOLIS ON LUXOR’S WEST BANK

The two sides of Luxor represent the duality of life and death in Ancient Egypt. While the East Bank of Luxor (where the sun rises) is associated with rituals pertaining to life, the Nile’s West Bank (where the sun sets) contains themes associated with death. The arid and colorless desert of Luxor’s West bank contains some of Egypt’s most outstanding temples and mortuary complexes. 

The temples and tombs strewn about Luxor’s West Bank were built with the intention of honoring the eternal rule of Egypt’s pharaohs. Their tombs are some of the most lavish and ornate in history—embossed in colorful reliefs that depict the passage to the afterlife.

• THE COLOSSI OF MEMNON

We began our guided tour of the West Bank with a brief visit to the Colossi of Memnon. The two reassembled statues rise majestically above the fertile plains of the Nile River Valley, as if guarding the tombs of the Theban Necropolis. Soaring 18 meters in the air, they are the first monuments that welcome visitors to Luxor’s West Bank.

The twin colossi weigh about 1,000 tons each. Originally carved out of solid blocks of rock, they tower over the funerary temple of Amenophis III.

Today, the Temple of Amenophis III lies largely in disrepair. At the time of our visit, however, excavations in the area were ongoing.

• THE TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSUT

Our tour to Luxor’s West Bank included a brief half hour visit to the modern-looking Temple of Hatshepsut. The temple lies against an escarpment of rugged rock and blends into its surroundings as if part of the natural landscape.

The mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut—known alternatively as Deir el Bahri—is set amidst a natural amphitheater in the Theban Hills. With its angular colonnades and three layered terraces, the temple has a modern and minimalist aesthetic that sets it apart from the other temples of the Nile Valley.

In comparison to some of the other better preserved temples, Deir el Bahri’s reliefs are difficult to decipher. However, we particularly enjoyed the temple’s colorful depictions of jackal-headed Anubis (protector of the dead)  and its chapel to the cow-headed goddess Hathor.

• THE VALLEY OF THE KINGS

After a whirlwind visit to the Temple of Hatshepsut, our tour brought us to the infamous Valley of the Kings—an area of tombs spread out over the bone-dry Theban Hills. Beyond the fertile plains of the Nile Valley, these barren and arid hills bely the magic that lies hidden underground.

The Tombs of the Kings were built to immortalize the Egyptian pharaohs. Each tomb consists of narrow passageways adorned in stunning reliefs. Upon their discovery, the tombs contained sarcophagi of the pharaohs. Today, however, most of the royal mummies and sarcophagi reside in museums elsewhere.

Over the millennia, tomb robbers, floods and mass tourism (dating back to Greek and Roman times) have wreaked havoc on the ancient necropolis.

Yet still, the depictions within the tombs remain visually striking.

Our entrance ticket to the archeological site included admission to three of the site’s 63 royal tombs. Our guide chose the tomb of Rameses IV, the tomb of Ramses IX and the tomb of Merenptah.

Due to lack of time, we skipped the Tomb of Tutankhamun. Visitors hoping to enter the burial chamber of one of Ancient Egypt’s most renowned young pharaohs, can purchase an additional ticket for 200LE. The relics discovered in Tutankhamun’s tomb, however,  are on display in Cairo’s Museum of Antiquities.

HOT AIR BALLOON OVER THE VALLEY OF THE KINGS

Our Nile cruise included a hot air balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. Since I passed up on the opportunity to fly in a balloon over the ruins of Bagan in Myanmar, the activity was one of the most anticipated moments of our tour. It did not disappoint.

Hot air balloon tours are a popular way of exploring the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. With tours costing as low as $60 per person, the Valley of the Kings is one of the cheapest places in the world to experience balloon rides.

Soaring above the Valley of the Kings provided us with an alternative perspective of the archeological site and its surroundings.

From up in the air, spectacular birds-eye-views of the arid mountainside and fertile Nile Valley unfolded before our eyes. Our elevated vantage point allowed us to see the abrupt transition between verdant fields of sugarcane and the orangey-hued desert. We could even spot the West Bank’s temples and tombs amidst the massifs of barren rock.

It was magical, surreal and serene. So antithetical to Egypt’s omnipresent chaos and confusion.

TEMPLES TO VISIT BETWEEN LUXOR AND ASWAN

After our hot air balloon adventure, we left Luxor and and began our journey up the Nile. As we cruised along the river, we spent time watching life unfold from our boat’s rooftop deck. Up and down the length of the river, we could see the fertile green plains fade into parched orange earth. We watched farmers bringing their donkeys to the water’s edge, and fishermen sail by on makeshift wooden boats.

On the following day—en route from Luxor to Aswan—we had the opportunity to stop by the temples of Edfu and Kom Ombo.

• EDFU TEMPLE

While each of our cruise stops along the Nile was rushed and disorganized, nowhere did this ring more true than at the great Temple of Edfu.

Though Edfu is one of the most beautiful temples in Egypt, our Nile tour did not do it justice in the slightest. A complete lack of organization, coupled with throngs of fellow tourists, made our visit so rushed that we had difficulty registering the beauty of our surroundings.

Picture this: five thousand people being funneled toward the temple on horse-drawn carriages, at the exact same time. The chaos was extraordinary, even for Egyptian standards.

Had we not traveled along the Nile precisely for the opportunity of visiting these Egyptian temples, we would have opted to turn back and wait in the boat alongside some of our fellow cruisers.

By the time we got to the Edfu Temple, we only had half an hour to explore.

But the Great Horus Temple at Edfu is not the type of place that can be toured in merely 30 minutes.  The Ptolemaic temple, built between 237 and 57 BC, is one of the best-preserved ancient monuments in Egypt.

The Edfu Temple owes its remarkable preservation to the desert sands that kept it hidden from the elements until the 1860s. Reliefs and inscriptions in the temple walls include allusions to the struggle between falcon-headed Horus and his brother, Seth.

• KOM OMBO TEMPLE

After a whirlwind tour of the Edfu Temple, we returned to our boat and set sail toward Kom Ombo. The transport-related confusion in Edfu delayed the remainder of our itinerary and caused us to arrive at Kom Ombo around sunset.

Kom Ombo overlooks the placid Nile waters. One of the most beautifully-situated temples in Egypt, it stands on a promontory at a bend in the Nile—at a place where sacred crocodiles once basked in the sun.

Luckily, our visit to Kom Ombo proved to be more relaxed. Since Kom Ombo lies along the banks of the Nile, we did not have to figure out transport. In addition, we had fewer crowds to contend with since many passengers opted to skip Kom Ombo after the epic kerfuffle at Edfu.

Though Kom Ombo is smaller than some of the other Nile Valley temples, it is unique for its dedication to two gods: the local crocodile god Sobek (god of fertility), and Haroeris (Horus the Elder).

A small crocodile museum lies adjacent to the temple. Visits to the museum are included in the Kom Ombo entrance ticket and feature mummified crocodiles of various sizes.

Photography of the crocodiles in the museum is not permitted.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN TEMPLES IN ASWAN AND ABU SIMBEL

The final day of our Nile cruise was a whirlwind from start to finish. Seeing all the temples near Aswan within a few short daylight hours was a bit like trying to run a marathon in an elevator. In retrospect, I wonder how we ever thought it would be possible to fit so many activities within a single day.

Still, everything seemed to work out in the end. The final day of our Nile cruise consisted of a 4am wakeup, followed by six hours on the bus round trip from Aswan to Abu Simbel. After returning to Aswan and before our overnight train back to Cairo, it included brief visits to the Philae Temple and Aswan High Dam.

• ABU SIMBEL TEMPLE

Abu Simbel is the southernmost temple in Egypt. It lies along the shores of Lake Nasser, only 40km from the Sudanese border. Aside from being extraordinary in its aesthetics, the temple is a modern marvel of engineering.

Carved out of the mountainside between 1274 and 1244 BC, Abu Simbel’s imposing main temple showcases the self-worshipping tendencies of Ramses II—Egypt’s most narcissistic pharaoh. In order to impress his power on the Nubians to the south, Ramses carved four colossal statues of himself into the mountainside. In the temple’s decor, the deified pharaoh physically overshadows the sun-god Re-Herakte, to whom Abu Simbel is nominally dedicated.

A smaller Hathor Temple lies just a stone’s throw away from the main ceremonial complex. The temple—dedicated to Queen Nefertari—is likewise hewn into the surrounding rock. Its exterior contains buttresses of Ramses II and his favorite wife.

In the 1960s, construction of the Aswan High Dam threatened to bury Abu Simbel under Lake Nasser’s reservoir. The prospect of losing the remarkable temple spearheaded a UNESCO-funded campaign to salvage Nubian monuments in Lake Nasser’s vicinity. In a feat of engineering that is almost as impressive as the construction of the temple itself, the campaign resulted in a complete relocation of the temple, piece by piece.

• THE ASWAN HIGH DAM

Upon returning to Aswan from Abu Simbel, our tour took us to visit the Aswan High Dam. While I wish our itinerary would have omitted a visit to the dam in lieu of dedicating more time to the Philae Temple, the engineering project is of undeniable significance and one of the most impressive facts about Egypt in modern times.

In the 1950s, Egyptian leader Gamal Abdel Nasser envisioned building a dam that would bring electric power to every corner of Egypt. It was a massive undertaking that remains one of the largest engineering projects of the 20th century.

The construction of the dam and subsequent formation of Lake Nasser required the resettlement of 90,000 Egyptian peasants and Sudanese Nubian nomads, as well as the costly relocation of the Abu Simbel and Philae Temples.

• PHILAE TEMPLE

The Philae Temple is the most prominent archeological site in Aswan. Though the temple dates to the end of the New Kingdom, Ptolomaic and Roman rulers constructed the majority of temple over the course of nearly 800 years. Thus, the archeological site is a harmonious fusion between ancient Egyptian and Greco-Roman architecture.

As with Abu Simbel, the encroaching waters of Lake Nasser compelled Egyptian authorities and UNESCO to relocate the Philae Temple to the shores of Aglika Island.

Today, the newly assembled temple sits majestically amidst volcanic outcrops, like a jewel on the River Nile. To reach it, we had to take a small boat from the site’s ticket office.

The Philae Temple’s twin towers and central doorway provide a grand entryway that is decorated with reliefs. Beyond, lies the Birth House of Ptolomy IV, the Hypostyle Hall, and the sanctuary of Isis.

Once we set foot on the small island, our tour guide gave us half an hour to explore.

As with the rest of the stops on our Nile cruise, it was not nearly enough time to discover the area.

****

While our Nile cruise did not give us the time we would have liked to adequately visit the temples of Egypt at our leisure, its favorable price was too good to pass up. It was so good, in fact, that Dan and I dismissed our own advice and booked a tour to the White Desert with Dahab Hostel immediately upon our return.

Cruising between Luxor and Aswan allowed Dan and I to enjoy the temples of the Nile without the hassle of having to book our own transportation and figure out logistics. It allowed us to sit back, relax, and watch life unfold along the Nile’s riverbanks.

Sure, I would have loved to explore the temples at my own pace. I would have loved to relish my surroundings without  the crowds. I would have loved an itinerary that stayed true to what we booked.

Yet, though we were constantly kept in the dark, everything seemed to sort itself out in the end. And that is not too dissimilar to traveling Egypt as a whole, I suppose.

For no matter how frustrating and disorienting an experience, visiting the country is worthwhile in every sense of the word.

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The post Visiting the Temples of Egypt on a Nile Cruise appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Though you’ve likely seen countless images of the Egyptian Pyramids, nothing can compare to witnessing their impeccable grandeur and geometry face-to-face.

The Pyramids of Giza are one of the world’s most recognizable landmarks and the last remaining wonder of the Ancient World—must-see on any Cairo itinerary.

Simply put, they are extraordinary.

However, while the Pyramids of Giza are the most famous, they are far from the only pyramids in Egypt.

The Egyptian Pyramids

The Egyptian pyramids, built between 2686–2181 BC, are among the world’s oldest human-engineered structures. Only a few archaeological sites on Earth—such as the Neolithic site of Göbeklitepe in Turkey and the Ġgantija Temples of Malta—can claim to be older.

The pyramids of Egypt served as grand tombs for pharaohs and symbols of divine authority. These structures marked a shift from simple mastaba tombs to monumental architecture. They represent a remarkable feat of early human engineering.

Egypt’s pyramids remain the world’s only standing ancient wonder. Some wonders (the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the Colossus of Rhodes and the Statue of Zeus in Olympia) live on only in legend and history books. Others, like the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, the Lighthouse of Alexandria, and the Mausoleum of Helicarnassus in Bodrum lie in ruined fragments.

There are 118 identified Egyptian Pyramids, two thirds of which lie within the Kingdom of Kush in modern-day Sudan. Beyond Giza, the most famous pyramids are found at the ancient sites of Saqqara and Dahshur.

Many travelers, pressed for time, may be tempted to skip the pyramids of Saqqara and Dahshur in favor of Giza. That’s understandable—Giza’s pyramids are awe-inspiring. But Egypt’s older and lesser-known pyramids are not to be missed either.

At Dahshur and Saqqara, we didn’t encounter long lines or touts advertising camel rides. Nor did we feel constantly on guard against scams. Instead, visiting these smaller pyramids allowed us to dive headfirst into Ancient Egypt, while enabling us to enjoy a more relaxed travel experience.

The Pyramids of Saqqara

Saqqara sits above the Nile Valley, west of Cairo.  Covering a large  seven kilometer swath of desert, it is Egypt’s largest archaeological site, as well as its oldest. The Necropolis of Saqqara dates back to the Third Dynasty, nearly 5,000 years ago.

For history buffs and curious tourists interested in the origins of the Pyramids, visiting the area is a must.

Due to limited time, our self-guided Saqqara tour included the Pyramids of Djoser and Teti. Yet travelers with more time may want to also visit the Tomb of Kagemni and the Mastaba of Ti (both accessible with the same entrance ticket).

Had we done more research before visiting Saqqara, we would have made time to include these additional sites in our Cairo itinerary as well.

• The Pyramid of Djoser 

The Pyramid of Djoser is the most significant archeological remain in the Saqqara Necropolis. As the world’s oldest royal tomb, it is the the foundation upon which later pyramids were built. 

Commonly known as the Step Pyramid, Djoser’s tomb is unique in its design. Unlike the later pyramids with smooth triangular faces, this structure rises in a series of terraces, resembling a layered wedding cake.

At the time of our visit, the pyramid’s interior was closed to tourists.

• The Pyramid of Teti 

Before our visit, Dan and I knew nothing about Pharaoh Teti. Yet, his unassuming pyramid turned out to be a highlight of our Cairo itinerary.

• Matsaba of Ti

Built for Ti, a high-ranking official and royal overseer, the mastaba is a non-royal tomb renowned for its exceptionally well-preserved reliefs depicting daily life. Engravings contain scenes of hunting and fishing that date back to the Fifth Dynasty, around 2400 BC.

• Tomb of Kagemni

Like the Matsaba of Ti, the Tomb of Kagemni is famous for its bas-reliefs that depict everyday scenes from life in 2300 BC. Built for Kagemni, a high-ranking official under King Teti, its scenes of people hunting, fishing, and dancing provide a glimpse into Egyptian royal society during the Sixth Dynasty.

The Pyramids of Giza

The Pyramids of Giza are a hyperbole of magnificence and craftsmanship. Alongside the great ruins of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the Moai on Easter Island, and the Nabetean Ruins of Petra in Jordan, the destination remains one of the most mysterious and iconic famous landmarks on Earth.

The Giza Necropolis consists of three main pyramids—Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure—and a number of smaller associated pyramids.

• The Khufu Pyramid

The Pyramid of Khufu, also known as the Great Pyramid of Giza, is the largest and most famous of the three pyramids on the Giza Plateau. Built around 2580 BC, it was the tallest man-made structure in the world for over 3,800 years.

The Great Pyramid costs extra to enter. And though its interior is more crowded, more more expensive, and less aesthetically interesting than the that of the pyramids in Dahshur and Saqqara, I’m glad I decided to fork over the money and channel my inner Indiana Jones.

• Khafre

Though slightly smaller than the Great Pyramid, the Khafre Pyramid appears taller due to its steeper angle and elevated location. It is notable for still having some of its original smooth casing stones near the top.

• Menkaure

The smallest of the three main pyramids at Giza was built for Pharaoh Menkaure around 2510 BC. Forged using limestone and granite, its materials make it unique among the Giza pyramids. Archaeological evidence suggests the pyramid may have been left unfinished at the time of Menkaure’s death.

• The Great Sphinx and Valley Temple

If the Pyramids of Giza are the universal symbol of Egypt, then the Sphinx is runner-up. Carved out of a single hunk of rock, the mythical lion-man statue stands guard over the Great Pyramid Complex.

Located near the Khafre Pyramid and thought to represent Pharaoh Khafre, it was likely built around 2500 BC during the Fourth Dynasty.

The Sphinx is the oldest known monumental sculpture in Egypt.

Many travelers have expressed surprise at the Sphinx’s small size relative to the Pyramids (it is often photographed in the foreground, where perspective is skewed).

Strangely, upon seeing the Great Sphinx, my reaction was the opposite.

• Best Views of the Pyramids 

For all-encompassing views of the three Pyramids, most tour buses stop along the road that runs behind the archeological site. Beyond the road, a pyramid alignment viewpoint boasts superior panoramas of the structures and their surroundings.

Camel tours often lead visitors to the alignment viewpoint, but walking only takes about fifteen minutes from the Menkaure Pyramid.

Whether you travel by horse, by camel, or on foot, I recommend you include the viewpoint in your itinerary. The vistas are simply breathtaking.

• The Pyramid Sound and Light Show

Every evening, the Egyptian pyramids come to life in a spectacle of lights and music. The Pyramid Sound and Light Show, held at the Giza Plateau, uses colorful lighting to illuminate the Great Pyramid of Khufu, the Pyramid of Khafre, the Pyramid of Menkaure, and the Sphinx. Alongside music and dramatic storytelling—with the Sphinx as a narrator—the show recounts the history of the the Pharaohs, the construction of the pyramids, and the legacy of ancient Egyptian civilization.

The show typically lasts around 50 minutes and is available in multiple languages. Showtimes vary depending on the season.

Where to Stay near the Pyramids of Egypt

Dan and I spent the night in Giza in order to fully appreciate the beauty of the pyramids at night and in the early morning. Our decision to stay the night in Giza meant that we were able to beat the crowds and arrive at the entrance gates as soon as they opened, at 8:00am. 

If time permits, I wholeheartedly recommend you do the same.

A host of hotels in Giza compete for nearly-unobstructed views of the three triangular structures that loom above town.

We stayed at the Horus Guesthouse and enjoyed a basic yet favorably-priced pyramid-view room with a central location near the archeological site’s East Entrance.

For travelers seeking a step up in luxury, the Mariott Mena and Meridian Pyramids Hotel offer pools, gardens, and comfortable amenities with a view.

Egyptian Pyramid Tours

The iconic pyramids have captured the imaginations of travelers and historians for millennia. But their widespread appeal comes at a price. They are full of crowds, and full of hassle. 

While you can certainly visit the Pyramids of Egypt without a tour, the presence of a guide can be beneficial in warding off the Egypt’s notorious touts.

Dan and I visited the Pyramids of Giza independently. And as we attempted to soak in the glory of the ancient site, we experienced constant bombardment by people trying to sell us things. We declined seemingly thousands of requests to ride camels and deflected a number of scams by people claiming to be security guards.

There are tons of tour options for the Egyptian pyramids if you wish to avoid the hassle. Some include camel rides, ATVs and dinner, while others offer half-day excursions with private guides. If you want to ride a camel, reserving online in advance can give you the option of booking the experience without haggling or negotiation.

We really enjoyed visiting Egypt’s three main pyramid sites over the course of two days. But if you have limited time and still want to see structures beyond the most famous pyramids, you can join a full day tour that includes Giza alongside Saqqara and Dahshur.

When to Visit the Egyptian Pyramids

We traveled to Egypt over the New Year and encountered generally favorable weather. The tourist crowds, however, were overwhelming. We could hardly navigate some of the temples and pyramids.

During our Nile Cruise, our guide told us that Christmas week is often unbearably packed. So while the weather during winter is cool and comfortable, I suggest you try to skip the holidays if possible.

Try to avoid visiting during the summer if possible, since temperatures can be sizzling.

***

The Pyramids of Egypt are a top global bucket list destination. Over 14 million visitors flock to the archaeological sites each year,  drawn by a desire to see the world’s only remaining ancient wonder.

The pyramids are a testament to the ingenuity and artistry of early human civilization. They remain an enduring symbols of Egypt’s power and legacy—still captivating scholars and visitors more than 4,000 years after their construction.

The post Guide to the Pyramids of Egypt appeared first on Erika's Travels .

With its constant chaos and commotion, Egypt’s largest city is not a place that often woos travelers at first sight. Cairo can be brash and overbearing and downright frustrating.

Yet in all its grime and glory, Cairo is full of fascinating places to visit.

The city’s museum of antiquities is among the best in the world. Its ancient neighborhoods are a kaleidoscope of culture and tradition.

And to top it all off, at the city’s periphery stand the Great Egyptian Pyramids—rising resolutely out of the barren earth as if guarding Cairo from the vastness of the desert beyond.

Three Days in Cairo and the Pyramids

Cairo and its surroundings would take weeks—if not months—to properly explore. The metropolis is huge, with mosque-studded neighborhoods extending along the Nile and deep into the reaches of the desert.

Like most casual travelers, Dan and I had limited time to dedicate to the historical sites in and around Cairo. Thus, with only three days in Cairo, we split our itinerary between the city itself and the western plateau upon which its most iconic monuments stand.

We began our trip to Cairo with a visit to the Pyramids of Dahshur and Saqqara—ancient Egypt’s oldest remaining relics. From there, we spent our second day ogling at the world-famous monuments at Giza and marveling at ancient treasures in the National Museum of Cairo.

On the third and final day of our Cairo itinerary, we focused on the hodgepodge of glorious gems that lie beneath Cairo’s dense layer of pollution and smog.

Day 1: The Pyramids of Saqqara and Dahshur

While most travelers with limited time might be tempted to skip the Pyramids of Saqqara and Dahshur in favor of spending more time in Giza, Egypt’s older and less-renowned pyramids are not to be missed.

At Dahshur and Saqqara, we didn’t encounter long lines, or touts advertising camel rides. Nor did we feel as though we were constantly on the lookout for scams. Instead, visiting the smaller pyramids allowed us to dive headfirst into Ancient Egypt, while offering a more relaxed travel experience.

In order to explore the archeological sites at our leisure, we hired a driver to pick us up in Cairo, take us to the Pyramids of Saqqara and Dahshur, and drop us off in Giza before sunset.

The Pyramids of Saqqara

Saqqara sits above the Nile Valley, west of Cairo.  Covering a large 7km swath of desert, it is Egypt’s largest archaeological site, as well as its oldest. The Necropolis of Saqqara dates back to the Third Dynasty, nearly 5,000 years ago.

For history buffs and curious tourists interested in the origins of the Pyramids, visiting the area is a must.

Entrance tickets include the Pyramid of Djoser, the Teti Pyramid, the Tomb of Kagemni and the Mastaba of Ti. Regrettably, we skipped the latter two. Had we fully done our research before visiting Saqqara, we would have found the time to include them in our Cairo itinerary as well.

• The Pyramid of Djoser

The Pyramid of Djoser is the most significant archeological remain in the Saqqara Necropolis. As the world’s oldest royal tomb, it is the the foundation upon which later pyramids were built. 

The Djoser Pyramid—also commonly known as the Step Pyramid—is distinct for its shape. It is not a symmetrical building, nor are its faces triangular. From its base, the structure rises toward the heavens like a rectangular layered wedding cake.

At the time of our visit, the pyramid’s interior was closed to tourists.

• The Pyramid of Teti

Though Dan and I knew nothing of Teti before our visit, the unassuming pyramid ended up being a highlight of our Cairo itinerary. 

From its exterior, the Pyramid of Teti appears to be a modest pile of rocks in severe disrepair. It looks to be in such poor shape, in fact, that Dan and I almost chose not to enter. 

But inside, the Pyramid of Teti tells an entirely different story. The interior of the Teti Pyramid is visually striking. Unlike other pyramids that contain interior chambers devoid of embellishments, the Teti relic remains adorned with intricate hieroglyphs that are impeccably preserved.  

The Pyramids of Dahshur

The Pyramids of Dahshur are not the oldest or largest pyramids in Egypt, but they are certainly worth including in a three day itinerary to Cairo and Giza.

The Dahshur Pyramids, dating back to Pharaoh Sneferu’s reign in 2613BC, reveal the evolution and perfection of the Egyptian pyramid form. The two main places to see within the Dahshur Archeological Zone are the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid.

• The Bent Pyramid

The Bent Pyramid clearly indicates a transition from the traditional “step” pyramid design. It is also credited with being the first smooth-sided pyramid in Ancient Egypt.

In attempting to create a true smooth-sided pyramid, Sneferu’s architects constructed the pyramid’s walls at a 54 degree, inward-leaning angle. When the structure began showing signs of instability, however, the builders changed its slope to 43 degrees.

To this day, the Bent Pyramid rises out of the sand with a deformed structure that is markedly distinct.

The interior of the Bent Pyramid is closed to visitors.

• The Red Pyramid

The world’s oldest true pyramid, the Red Pyramid, derives its name from the red tones of its weathered limestone. It appears that, in constructing the Red Pyramid, Snefaru’s architects learned from their mistakes and succeeded in building the world’s first symmetrical structure.

Visitors can enter the Red Pyramid for a fraction of the cost of entering the Great Pyramid of Giza.

The entrance reveals a 125-step claustrophobia-inducing passageway that leads to two antechambers with high vaulted ceilings. For travelers who don’t want to pay the exorbitant fee of entering the Great Pyramid of Giza, the Red Pyramid is a fantastic alternative.

The Relics of Ancient Memphis

While not a pyramid, the ancient city of Memphis is commonly included in tours of the smaller and lesser-known pyramids outside of Giza.

Located at the entrance to the Nile River Valley near the Giza Plateau, Memphis was one of the oldest and most important cities in Ancient Egypt. It served as the capital of Egypt during the Old Kingdom, while the Great Pyramids were being built.

Today, not much remains of the old city. A museum housing a sphinx, a handful of carved stones, and a stunning Colossus of Ramses II can be visited upon paying the 60 pound entrance fee. 

Day 2: The Pyramids of Giza and National Museum

Though you’ve probably seen the images a thousand times before, nothing can compare to a face-to-face encounter with the impeccable geometry and grandeur of the Egyptian Pyramids.

Simply put, the Pyramids of Giza are extraordinary. They are a hyperbole of magnificence and craftsmanship. Alongside the great ruins of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the Moai on Easter Island, and the Nabetean Ruins of Petra in Jordan, the destination remains one of the most mysterious and iconic on famous landmarks on Earth.

The Great Giza Pyrmaids

Dating back nearly 6,000 years, the iconic Pyramids of Giza have captured the imaginations of travelers and historians for millennia. They are the most well-known in a chain of 118 temples that lie between Cairo and Sudan. 

But their widespread appeal comes at a price. They are full of crowds, and full of hassle. 

As Dan and I admired the last surviving wonder of the ancient world, we were accosted by touts at every step of the way. We declined seemingly thousands of requests to ride camels, and deflected a number of scams by people claiming to be security guards.

And still, visiting the Pyramids of Giza is an Egyptian experience second to none.

• The Three Great Pyramids

The Giza Necropolis consists of three main pyramids—Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure—and a number of smaller associated pyramids. Dan and I spent most of the morning wandering around the grounds of the archeological site. Our decision to stay the night in Giza meant that we were able to beat the crowds and arrive at the entrance gates as soon as they opened, at 8:00am. 

Though we had already entered two pyramids the previous day, we chose to purchase tickets to the interior of the Great Khufu Pyramid.

The Great Pyramid costs roughly $20 to enter. And though its interior is more crowded, more more expensive, and less aesthetically interesting than the that of the pyramids in Dahshur and Saqqara, I’m glad I decided to fork over the money and channel my inner Indiana Jones.

• The Great Sphinx and Valley Temple

If the Pyramids of Giza are the universal symbol of Egypt, then the Sphinx is runner-up. Carved out of a single hunk of rock, the mythical lion-man statue stands guard over the Great Pyramid Complex. The Sphinx is the oldest known monumental sculpture in Egypt, dating back to circa 2500BC.

Many travelers have expressed surprise at the Sphinx’s small size relative to the Pyramids (it is often photographed in the foreground, where perspective is skewed).

Strangely, upon seeing the Great Sphinx, my reaction was the opposite.

• Best Views of the Pyramids

For all-encompassing views of the three Pyramids, most tour buses stop along the road that runs behind the archeological site. Beyond the road, a pyramid alignment viewpoint boasts superior panoramas of the structures and their surroundings.

Camel tours often lead visitors to the alignment viewpoint, but walking only takes about fifteen minutes from the Menkaure Pyramid.

Whether you travel by horse, by camel, or on foot, I recommend you include the viewpoint in your itinerary. The vistas are simply breathtaking.

The National Museum

After an unforgettable morning in Giza, Dan and I took an Uber back to Cairo and spent an afternoon at the Egyptian National Museum near Tahrir Square. The museum is among the best in the world—rivaling the likes of the Louvre, the British National Museum and the Vatican Museums.

We spent two hours wandering the museum’s disorganized jumble of archeological treasures and admiring the King Tut Exhibit. Had the museum not been scheduled to close at 5pm, we could have easily stayed longer.

Day 3: The Best of Cairo

At first glance, Cairo is dirty, congested and polluted. The city lies under a thick cloud of smog, its charms slowly revealed to travelers as they dodge honking cars and peel back the layers of grime and pollution.

While I dedicated three days of my Egypt trip to Cairo, I only spent a day and a half in the city itself. But Cairo undoubtedly deserves more time. The city is replete with architectural gems, archeological wonders and culinary delights (we particularly loved eating at Fasahet Soumaya and the Naguib Mahfouz Cafe).

Among the plethora of things to see and do in Cairo, highlights include visits to the Coptic Quarter, the Citadel, and the Islamic Quarter.

The Coptic Quarter

Even in a city as chaotic as Cairo, there exist oases of tranquility and calm. Coptic Cairo is a fascinating counterpoint to the rest of the city. Distinguished for being the oldest neighborhood in Cairo and the heart of Egypt’s Coptic Christian community, the area is a car-free jumble of ancient churches and monasteries.

Over two thousand years ago, Coptic Cairo sat along the Nile. It was a strategic point around which the city began to flourish and grow.

Over millennia, the course of the river has changed. And today, while the Nile has shifted several hundred meters to the west, this historic district houses several of Cairo’s most significant attractions.

• The Church of St George

The Church of St George was the first stop on our self-guided walking tour of Coptic Cairo. The church stands directly in front of the Mar Gigris Metro Station, adjacent to the St George Monastery. The massive building is the principal Greek Orthodox church of Egypt. Inside, sunbeams filter through stained glass windows and illuminate a spacious incense-filled room.

The Church of St. George was built in the 10th century, but a fire destroyed its original structure. The present church dates to 1904.

• The Hanging Church

From the Complex of St George, a descending staircase leads to a labyrinth of church-lined streets below. The most famous of these churches is the Hanging Church—an architectural masterpiece and the seat of the Coptic Orthodox Pope of Alexandria.

The stunning church stands above the gatehouse of an ancient Roman Fortress. Its nave rests above a passageway, as if suspended.

The Hanging Church contains a courtyard adorned with modern biblical designs. Inside, its 110 icons date back to the eighth century.

I particularly loved the Hanging Church’s mosque-like floral motifs and intricate decorations.

• The Ben Ezra Synagogue

According to local folklore, the Ben Ezra Synagogue sits at the site in which a pharaoh’s daughter found baby Moses in a basket. Little is known about the original building, other than the fact that it used to be a church. Motifs reminiscent to those of the nearby mosques and churches adorn the synagogue’s interior.

Unfortunately, photography of the Ben Ezra Synagogue is not permitted.

The Cairo Citadel 

Towering over the city’s eastern edge, the Cairo Citadel is one of the top places to visit in Cairo. The citadel—founded by Saladin in 1176 as a fortification against the Crusaders—was home to Egypt’s rulers for 700 years. What remains today is a collection of holy mosques, several palaces (most of which were under remodel when we visited) and terraces with superb city views.

Even through the smog, we could see the Giza Pyramids piercing the sky in the far distance.

• THE MOHAMMED ALI MOSQUE

Employing classic Ottoman architecture, the alabaster-white mosque within the Citadel is among the most significant religious monuments in Cairo. The mosque’s interior boasts twinkling chandeliers and an intricately adorned minbar. Mohammed Ali’s tomb lies within the mosque.

The Islamic Cairo

Islamic Cairo is a bit of a misnomer for the colorful and character-filled district that lies near the Al Azhar Mosque. After all, nearly all of Cairo’s neighborhoods are predominantly Muslim. Still, Islamic Cairo is distinct. The neighborhood boasts some of the most important buildings and institutions in Islam, as well as some of the city’s best restaurants and shopping streets.

• The Khan al Khalil Market

At the heart of Islamic Cairo lies the colorful Khan al Khalil Market. Here, the frenzy of activity comes less from honking car horns and more from the street vendors attempting to lure passersby into their shops.

The narrow car-free lanes of Khan Al Khalili comprise one of the largest and most renowned souks in the Arab world. This agglomeration of shops stocks everything from soap powder, to spices, to tacky alabaster pyramids and figurines of pharaohs.

Unfortunately, we planned our visit to Islamic Cairo on a Sunday—the day that most shops in the market are closed. As a result, the sprawling bazaar was uncharacteristically quiet and laid back.

Still, enough stores and shops were open for us to get a feel for the area.

Where to Stay near the Pyramids

Dan and I spent a night in Giza in order to fully appreciate the beauty of the pyramids at night and in the early morning. If time permits, I wholeheartedly recommend you do the same. A host of hotels in Giza compete for nearly-unobstructed views of the three triangular structures that loom above town.

We stayed at the Horus Guesthouse and enjoyed a favorably-priced pyramid-view room with a central location near the archeological site’s East Entrance. For travelers seeking a step up in luxury, the Mariott Mena and Meridian Pyramids Hotel offer pools, gardens, and comfortable amenities with a view.

****

Despite its renown and widespread appeal, Cairo is not an easy city. During my visit to Cairo, the unfettered frenzy, the horrific traffic, and the thick black smog, nearly drove me to my wits end.

But while Cairo doesn’t always seduce visitors at first sight, it is the type of place that slowly sucks you in—revealing, little by little, a city that is as beautiful as it is dirty and as captivating as it is confusing.

Cairo may impair your hearing, blacken your lungs, and leave you craving a bit of quiet and calm, but these hassles only seem like minor obstacles overall.

For there are few things more exhilarating than standing in front of the last remaining Ancient Wonder and visiting a city that Arabs call Umm al Dunya—the Mother of the World.

________________________________

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Ghana is Africa’s golden child.

Formerly known as the Gold Coast due to its vast gold deposits, the country emerged from the throes of colonialism as one of Africa’s model nations. Despite facing some of the same struggles as its West African neighbors—namely the prevalence of communicable diseases and a deep-rooted legacy of colonialism—Ghana has reached an impressive level of economic and political success in the years since its independence.

And it shows: Ghana is suffused with energy, emboldened by diversity and characterized by stability.

Ghana is often labeled ‘West Africa for beginners.’ After traveling to the country, I can easily see why. The welcoming nation allows visitors to experience the thrills of traveling to West Africa, while offering desirable comforts like air conditioning and well-stocked grocery stores.

Ghana has a number of noteworthy places to visit, too. With its gold-gilded beaches, its powerful historical monuments, its verdant hinterland, and its welcoming inhabitants, it is a place that draws people in, gets under their skin, and entices them to return.

Accra

Accra is Ghana’s capital city and the place around which the entire country revolves. An intoxicating destination that is a bit rough around the edges, the sprawling metropolis is West Africa’s gateway and the primary point of entrance for most foreign visitors.

I landed in Accra two days prior to the start of my West Africa overland tour with Dragoman. During my free days in Accra, I stayed at the lovely Agoo Hostel in the city’s Nima District. The Agoo hostel is clean, modern and offers a delicious free breakfast. It is one of the best budget accommodations in Accra and an ideal place to stay for backpackers, volunteers and long-term travelers.

When I first got to Accra, I found the city to be nothing more than a sprawl of chaotic streets lined with derelict buildings.

Yet, three weeks later–after traveling through the remote reaches of Togo and Benin–I returned to Accra with a new set of eyes and a greater appreciation for the dynamic capital city that has been at the center of Ghana’s success.

When I returned to Accra after my three weeks on the road, I found plenty of things to do in the city. I ate hearty portions of fufu and kelewele at Buka Restaurant, shopped for fair trade handicrafts at Global Mamas and relished the sun’s rays at Labadi Beach.

Accra isn’t exactly teaming with places to visit. Aside from Jamestown, the Makola Market and the shores of Labadi Beach, the city has little to offer tourists in terms of must-see sites.

But what it lacks in attractions, it makes up for with its tantalizing food and welcoming atmosphere. Accra is pulsing, modern and host to a dizzying assortment of colors and aromas. The capital’s marketplaces are brightened by a kaleidoscope of colorful textiles. Its sticky streets are perfumed with the scent of sweat, car exhaust and salty ocean air.

Though it may not be a top bucket list destination for most, Accra is the undeniable gateway to West Africa. It is one of the safest and most accessible cities on the continent and a fantastic launching pad for day trips into the surrounding countryside.

Places to Visit within Three Hours of Accra

Accra may be the axis around which Ghanaian culture revolves, but no trip to the country would be complete without an escape to the country’s nearby attractions.

My visit to Ghana was split into two parts: a tour of the Volta Region and Keta Beach with Dragoman and—following the end of my overland tour—an independently organized day trip to Cape Coast and the Kakum National Park.

Though my West Africa itinerary was limited due to time, I was nonetheless able to tour a handful of the most noteworthy places to visit in Ghana.

These places included the Volta Region, Cape Coast and the Kakum National Park.

The Volta Region

The Volta Region was the first stop on our West Africa tour with Dragoman. Upon securing our Togo visas and leaving the hustle and bustle of Accra, we ventured to Ghana’s verdant hill-country for two leisurely days amongst the country’s most picturesque scenery.

The Volta Region’s landscapes give way to gentle rolling hills and dense vegetation. Lush, fertile farmland carpets the hills and valleys that flank the riverbeds. It is prime hiking territory, and home to a host of budding ecotourism ventures.

On the first night of our West Africa tour, our group camped on the banks of the Volta River, at the Aylos Bay Guest House.

For two peaceful nights, we bonded around bonfires and swam under the star-studded sky.

During the day, we toured some of the area’s most notable highlights, including the Akosombo Dam and the VREL Fair Trade Banana Plantation.

• The Akosombo Dam

On our first full day in the Volta Region, we set out to tour the massive Akosombo Dam—an impressive feat of engineering that provides the majority of Ghana’s electricity needs. During our tour, we were given the opportunity to enter the massive structure and learn about the process by which water is harnessed for energy.

When the Akosombo Dam was constructed in 1960, it was the subject of widespread controversy. With the construction of the dam, the Volta River reached its tendrils across the arable hills of the Volta Region and formed a shallow body of water that blanketed 3.6% of Ghana’s total surface area. Lake Volta—a byproduct of the dam—displaced hundreds of thousands of people.

Today, Lake Volta is the largest artificially-created lake in the world in terms of surface area, and the fourth largest by volume.

• Floating the Volta River in a Pirogue

The Akosombo River runs south of Lake Volta, toward the Gulf of Guinea. On the afternoon of our Akosombo Dam tour, we took a boat trip down the Volta River in a dugout canoe.

The hour-long journey took us from our campsite to the Akosombo Dam. As we glided gently down the river, we watched local life unfold. We observed fishermen as they cast their nets in the water, waved at children as the played on the riverbanks and admired the birds as they darted between the foliage.

• VREL Fair Trade Banana Plantation

On the following day, prior to crossing into Togo, we stopped by the VREL Banana Plantation. Established in 1988, VREL is a Ghanaian-Dutch joint venture that focuses on promoting fair trade between Ghana and Europe.

On our plantation tour, we were able to watch the process by which bananas are cultivated, sorted and packaged for consumers. As we walked between rows of banana plants, a guide explained the cultivation process. Around us, workers zoomed about, using elaborate pulley systems that facilitated their movements around the plantation.

Most bananas at the VREL Plantation are packaged and shipped overseas. After picking the bananas, workers sort the fruits into large vats of water. The bananas then get divided into two piles: those for the domestic market, and those suitable for export.

The most beautiful unblemished bananas are then packaged, transported and sold to supermarkets around the world.

The Keta Lagoon

Following a two-week detour into Togo and Benin, our Dragoman itinerary re-entered Ghana en route to Accra. On our return visit to Ghana, we had the opportunity to stop by Keta’s Fort Prizenstein—one of the lesser-known places to visit near Accra and a chilling remnant of West Africa’s slave-trading past.

Keta lies three hours east of Accra, on a narrow spit that separates the Gulf of Guinea from the Keta Lagoon. .

While we primarily stopped at Keta Beach in order to break up the journey from Togoville to Accra, our brief tour of Keta’s Fort Prinzenstein was an unexpected surprise.

• Fort Prinzenstein 

Fort Prizenstein is one of 38 slave forts scattered along Ghana’s coastline. Built by the Danes in 1784, the crumbling structure was historically used as a dungeon for slaves awaiting transportation to the Caribbean.

Having been weathered by the encroaching ocean, today’s Fort Prinzenstein lies largely in ruins. I imagine passersby might mistaken Fort Prinzenstein for an insignificant and derelict building along Ghana’s windswept shores.

And perhaps that is what makes this small ruined fort such a powerful place to visit. It is evocative in its solitude. Stirring in its shattered memory.

During our our visit to Fort Prinzenstein, our impassioned guide gave us a tour of the fort that moved everyone to tears.

It was haunting. A poignant reminder of humankind’s capacity for brutality.

Unlike the well-maintained slave forts of Cape Coast and Goree Island, Fort Prinzestein lies crumbling, as if forgotten by history and haunted by the ghosts of its past.

Cape Coast

Cape Coast is one of Africa’s most culturally significant spots. It is the place from which millions of slaves were uprooted from their homes, forced to sail across the Atlantic Ocean, and worked to death picking cotton and sugarcane. It is a place that forever changed the history and demographics of not only West Africa, but also of the Americas.

I visited Cape Coast and the Kakum National Park on my penultimate day in West Africa. The private excursion—organized by the Agoo Hostel in Accra—cost a total of $168, divided by myself and my two travel companions.

Cape Coast is an unmissable highlight of travel to West Africa. Not only is it one of the top places to visit in Ghana, but I wager that the sleepy coastal village contains some of the most significant monuments in all of Sub-Saharan Africa.

Cape Coast was once the largest slave-trading centre in Africa.

Today, the city is an easygoing fishing town where colonial buildings line dusty streets, peeling waves kiss golden shores, and fishermen cast nets where slave ships once set sail.

It is a pleasant town, at odds with its harrowing past.

• Cape Coast Slave Fort

The whitewashed walls of Cape Coast’s castle loom over the town’s low-lying skyline. The castle—one of the top places to see in Ghana due to its historical significance—offers a window into the torturous lives of the millions of slaves that passed through its walls.

Originally established as a Portuguese trading post in 1555, the castle changed hands a number of times before it was acquired by the British in 1664.

The Cape Coast Castle and its museum provide horrifying insight into the workings of the slave trade. For $4 per person, staff members conduct hour-long tours of the dark dungeons in which the slaves awaited their fate.

The Cape Coast Castle is a powerful place to visit. Like the Tuol Sleng Prison or Armenian Genocide Museum, it raises questions about dark tourism and the ethics of touring sites associated with the enslavement of human beings.

But Ghana’s slave history must be told. In order for history not to repeat itself, the horrors of the slave trade need to be studied and remembered.

For, as the inscription in Fort Prinzenstein stated: “until the lion has his historian, the hunter will always be a hero.”

• Elmina Castle 

The nearby Elmina Castle is often included in tour itineraries of the Cape Coast area. Built in 1482, the castle is the oldest European building in Africa.

Though the Elmina Castle is one of the most significant places to visit in Ghana, I did not have time to visit the site.

However, I imagine touring the Elmina Castle would have elicited reactions similar to those I felt on my tours of Fort Prinzenstein and the Cape Coast Castle.

Kakum National Park

Our day trip to Cape Coast included a brief pitstop at the nearby Kakum National Park.

The national park is a slice of native rainforest that is famous for its rope bridges and for its diverse array of colorful birds. Seven interlocking suspension bridges swing in the canopies above the forest floor.

Nature walks across the bridges allow for up-close encounters with hundreds of bird and butterfly species.

Kakum National Park’s suspension bridges are among the most notable of their kind in Africa. Though they are built from wire, rope and aluminum, the materials seamlessly blend into their environment, as if part of the forest.

The Kakum National Park is one of the most popular places to visit in Ghana. The park is easily accessible as a day trip from either Cape Coast or Accra and can be combined with tours of the Cape Coast and Elmina castles. 

***

Ghana is West Africa’s greatest success story. Following its harrowing past at the hands of colonial powers, Ghana became the first African nation to gain independence. Today, it is one of the safest countries in Africa and a beacon of stability in an otherwise unpredictable region.

Ghana is welcoming and hospitable. Its diverse landscapes provide ample opportunities for recreation and animal-viewing. And its coastal forts are poignant and sobering—reminders of the dark pages in history that have played a part in defining our modern world.

Africa’s Golden Child has a story to tell.

It is up to us to listen.

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West Africa is one of the world’s last frontiers. Long plagued by disease, civil strife and ethnic tension, it is one of the only regions of the world where tourism has yet to gain a foothold. Bad roads, lack of tourist infrastructure and minimal information on travel to the area, have all played their part in solidifying West Africa’s reputation as the world’s most challenging destination.

Yet those willing to step out of their comfort zones, will find an area of the world that is authentic, musical and full of color. For first-time travelers to West Africa, Benin offers an easy introduction. The country has a nascent eco-tourism industry, comparatively decent infrastructure and a wide selection of tourist attractions—from ancient palaces, to wildlife-rich parks, to sweeping beaches.

A BENIN TRAVEL ITINERARY

I traveled to Benin as part of a West Africa overland tour with Dragoman. The tour’s ten day itinerary brought me to Benin’s top tourist attractions—starting at the remote Tata Somba area in the country’s northern reaches and ending along the golden sands of Grand Popo Beach in southern Benin.

Our ten day Benin itinerary included a diverse array of places to see. In the Tata Somba area, we admired the unique two-story mud houses that constitute one of West Africa’s premier cultural landscapes. From there, we continued to the wildlife-rich Pendjari National Park and the historically significant Abomey Palaces. Finally, we finished our tour in southern Benin, where we visited the country’s Voodoo monuments and retraced the harrowing Route des Esclaves.

TATA SOMBA AREA, NORTHERN BENIN

The Tata Somba houses of Benin are part of the greater Koutammakou World Heritage Site that spans parts of northern Togo and Benin. We entered Benin from northern Togo at a small border post near Natitingou, in the Koutammakou/Tata Somba heritage area.

Entering Benin at this remote border crossing was an adventure in its own right. Roads crisscross through Koutammakou and the adjacent Tata Somba without passing by an official border post. The porous delineation between the two countries facilitates the unification of families that lie on either side of the border. It also means that we drove across the imaginary demarcation a number of times before we were able track down an official border guard that could give us our Benin entry stamp.

When we finally found the immigration ‘office,’ we realized that it consisted of nothing more than a man sitting on a log near a dusty village road, stamp in hand.

From the border, we headed toward our accommodation—a no-frills eco-lodge constructed to resemble a Tata Somba homestead. The eco-lodge was the base from which we explored the surrounding villages and familiarized ourselves with the unique cultural landscape.

We spent two days exploring the Tata Somba villages of Benin. The area—a baobab-speckled expanse of undulating hills—showcases two-story mud houses that have been preserved for generations.

The Tata Somba houses are unique for their layout and architecture. The traditional Tata Somba houses consist of two floors connected by an interior stairway. The bottom floors of the structures typically house the cooking area and the animal quarters. On the top floor, elevated thatched rooms contain granaries and sleeping quarters.

During our two days in the Tata Somba region, we enjoyed learning about the local area. We participated in guided village walks, toured the traditional Tata Somba houses and soaked in the simplicity of life in rural Benin.

PENDJARI NATIONAL PARK

Heading north from the Tata Somba area, we found ourselves in the vast Pendjari National Park—one of West Africa’s premier wildlife destinations and the best place to see the maneless West African lions. The park is the largest remaining ecosystem in West Africa and a refuge for the region’s endangered elephants and lions.  It is estimated that there are fewer than 400 West African lions left, and approximately 100 reside in the park.

Our two days in Pendjari were both rewarding and frustrating. Our intimate encounter with West Africa’s endangered wildlife was cut short by a horrible misunderstanding that resulted in a standoff between our tour group and the park’s management.

Nevertheless, I have fond memories of my visit to Pendjari. Over the course of our two days in the park, we witnessed countless colorful birds, admired some of Africa’s most beloved animals and fell asleep to the sounds of the wild. It was an off-the-beaten-path safari experience that rivaled the grandeur of some of Africa’s most coveted wildlife destinations.

Despite the unfortunate ending to our visit, there is no doubt that Pendjari National Park is one of the top tourist attractions in Benin and an essential stop on any West Africa itinerary.

ROYAL PALACES OF ABOMEY

Abomey is the former capital of the Dahomey Kingdom and one of Benin’s top historical attractions. Established in 1625 by the Fon people, the Royal Palaces in Abomey have been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites for their unparalleled importance in Benin’s history.

Abomey, formerly known as Dahomey, was once one of the most powerful and brutal kingdoms in West Africa. The Kings of Dahomey were despotic and bloody sovereigns who were known for human sacrifices and for using blood to paint the walls of their palaces.

The Dahomey Kingdom flourished in the 18th and 19th centuries and was a central facilitator in the West African slave trade. The kings of Dahomey ordered the capture of men, women and children in wars and raids.  They then sold their captives to the slave traders in return for weapons.

The Royal Abomey Palace complex is one of the most interesting tourist attractions in Benin. Today, the palaces house a museum that showcases relics of Dahomey art. The museum’s exhibits include decorations made with human skulls, Voodoo fetish items and paraphernalia belonging to a succession of Dahomey kings.

Tours of the Royal Abomey Palace cost CFA3000 for foreigners. Photography is prohibited in the palace and its museums, though our guide gave us the go-ahead to take photos regardless.

The Royal Palaces of Abomey are among the most remarkable buildings in Sub-Saharan Africa. They are a top Benin tourist attraction and a testament to the continent’s historical and cultural relics.

GANVIE: THE VENICE OF AFRICA

There is no doubt that Benin is blessed with a plethora of things to see. But there is also no doubt that Ganvie is the country’s most popular attraction. Ganvie has been lovingly named the ‘Venice of Africa’ for its waterways and lack of cars. Perhaps the Inle Lake of Africa would be a more apt description, however, because the stilt village in the middle of Lake Nokoué shares a striking resemblance with the the communities that sprinkle the waters of Myanmar’s Inle Lake.

Ganvié was founded by the Tofinu people in the seventeenth century. The Tofinu—desperate to evade capture and enslavement by the ruthless Fon soldiers—escaped to the middle of Lake Nakoué. Religious beliefs prevented the Fon from fighting on the lake, so the sacred body of water became a safe haven for the Tofinu.

Today, the stilt village of Ganvie is home to approximately 40,000 people.  The original collection of stilt houses has expanded to include floating markets, schools, hospitals, mosques and churches.  Some of the larger structures have been built on islands made from reclaimed soil.

Our visit to Ganvie was a prime example of West Africa’s cultural vibrancy. We spent two days exploring the laketop attraction and observing its intoxicating display of colors, sights and sounds. From the port of Abomey-Calavi, a boat brought us to the basic, yet centrally-located Chez M Hotel located in one of Nakoue’s stilt communities.

Our Ganvie itinerary was supposed to consist of an afternoon lake tour and an evening of relaxing at Chez M’s waterview restaurant.

When our boat broke down merely minutes after our departure, however, Ganvie had an alternative plan in store for us.

On the day we visited Ganvie, the floating village was hosting a jazz festival. Our guide—evidently sorry about our boat’s faulty engine—decided to make up for our interrupted tour by taking us on a remarkable adventure. Once our engine troubles were fixed (thanks to a group of young children who rowed off to find us help), our guide brought us to a family reunion for an inside look at Benin’s modern-day culture.

The reunion consisted of over three hundred family members adorned in colorful dress. Before we knew it, we were swept away in a whirl of dancing, food, beer and limitless curiosity. We met the family king, played with the village children and were the subjects in countless photographs.

When the sun went down, our guide brought us to the local jazz festival, where—surrounded by local musicians and villagers— we danced the night away to a soundtrack of contemporary Beninese sounds.

It was the kind of day that is only possible in places that have not yet been jaded by tourists and the troubles that they often bring.

OUIDAH: WEST AFRICA’S VOODOO HEART

Our Benin itinerary continued southward, to Ouidah—Africa’s Voodoo heartland and one of the most culturally dynamic places to visit in Benin.

In the West, the word Voodoo conjures images of black magic, witchcraft and beaded dolls. Yet Voodoo is one of the world’s oldest religions and a central pillar of Benin’s culture. Religion in Benin is fluid, with people adhering to a fusion of old practices and new religious ideas. Approximately 35% of Benin’s population practices Voodoo, while nearly 70%  of the country’s population combines elements of Voodoo with Christianity and Islam.

Voodoo talismans, called fetishes, are often used in the construction of temples and altars. These fetishes adorn shrines and entryways and are believed to have supernatural powers. They ooze with blood, feathers and the pelts of sacrificed animals.

For those interested in Voodoo statues and fetishes, Ouidah’s Sacred Forest and Python Temple are must-sees.

• THE VOODOO PYTHON TEMPLE

The serpent deity, Dangbé, has been a revered figure in Benin for centuries. As such, the deity’s ancestors are protected and honored in the city’s Voodoo Python Temple. The temple—directly facing a Christian Basilica—is a painted hut that contains over fifty lazy pythons.

Entrance to the temple costs CFA1000 and includes a short guided tour.

• THE SACRED FOREST

Down the road from the Python Temple, Ouidah’s Sacred Forest is the location at which King Kpasse (founder of Ouidah) allegedly turned into a tree to escape his enemies.

A short walk through the forest introduces visitors to shrines and statues of the Voodoo deities.

• THE ROUTE DES ESCLAVES

In addition to being the center of Voodoo in Benin, Ouidah is historically significant for being one of the primary centers of West Africa’s slave trade.

UNESCO’s flagship Slave Route Project is a walk that brings visitors from the slave auction plaza in Ouidah, to the Gate of No Return. It was constructed to bring light to the plight of the 12 million slaves that were forced across the Atlantic.

We walked the Route des Esclaves on our second day in Ouidah. The route takes visitors past the slave auction plaza, the Tree of Forgetfulness (at which slaves were forced to walk in circles to forget where they came from) and the Tree of Return (a tree that slaves circled with the belief that their souls would return home after death). Along the route, plaques and statues commemorate the horrors of the West African slave trade.

At the end of the walk, we reached the Gate of No Return—a powerful memorial that represents the place where slaves were forcefully ripped from their homelands and brought to the Americas.

Even my visit to Goree Island in Senegal did little to prepare me emotionally for my visit to Benin’s sobering monument.

• GRAND POPO BEACH

Located between Ouidah and the Togo border, Grand Popo offers a windswept stretch of golden sand that is perfect for a few relaxing days of hammock-swinging and beach-lounging.

My travel companions and I spent the remaining days of our Benin overland tour at the lovely beachfront Auberge de Gand-Popo. There, we took walks along the ocean, swam in the hotel’s fresh-water swimming pool and relished the tranquility of Benin’s most popular (yet remarkably uncrowded) beach escape.

***

Benin is an unsung highlight of West Africa’s virtually non-existent tourist trail. Like nearby Ghana, the country is replete with things to see—including the most diverse array of wildlife in West Africa and some of the best-preserved architectural gems south of the Sahara.

Benin has the potential to become a top eco-tourist destination. When compared to some of West Africa’s other countries, Benin is relatively safe and tourist friendly. The country showcases a diverse array of tourist attractions, its roads and accommodation options are continually improving, and a budding eco-tourism industry offers unparalleled opportunities to delve into local Beninese culture.

The best time to travel to Benin is now, before the rest of the world finds out.

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Togo is a seldom-visited country in the heart of West Africa. Sandwiched between Ghana and Benin, the small vertical nation flies largely under the radar. And without the jaw-dropping natural splendors or wildlife-rich parks found on other parts of the continent, it is not difficult to see why.

Togo doesn’t have the types of attractions that draw large crowds or tour groups. Instead, Togo offers a taste of Africa that is raw and unfiltered.  Traveling to Togo reveals an Africa bursting at the seams with color. An Africa that welcomes wayward visitors with curiosity and offers them glimpses into a bygone era.

Overland Travel to Togo, West Africa

I visited Togo as part of an organized tour with Dragoman–a company that specializes in overland adventure travel. Alongside twenty other globetrotters, I spent three weeks traveling throughout Ghana, Togo and Benin in a large orange truck. For those three weeks, the truck was our home. It housed everything from our tents to our fold-out kitchen to our filtered water supply. In our large orange overlanding vehicle, we rumbled down dusty roads, passed through wildlife-rich parks and visited remote villages forgotten in time.

It was the adventure of a lifetime, though the trip came with West African-style challenges that are only appropriate for seasoned travelers.

Traveling in West Africa is tough; there are no two ways about it. In fact, I’d be willing to say that West Africa is one of the most challenging travel destinations in the world. Aside from Ghana and Senegal, tourist services throughout West Africa are extremely limited. Roads are challenging. Hotels are either nonexistent or a far cry from western standards. Bureaucracy is alive and well.

Togo is no exception.

While searching for Togo travel guides or blog posts online before my trip, my efforts came up empty. Even Lonely Planet seemed to have little to say about travel to Togo. Thus, before my trip to West Africa, I had a general idea of what I could expect from the Ghana and Benin portion of my trips, but very little idea of the things to see and do in Togo.

Luckily, for the first time in years, I didn’t have to create my own travel itinerary. Dragoman had already done it all for me. So with a bit of oblivion as to our plans, I followed along for the ride and discovered the highlights of Togo in the process.

Mount Klouto Villages in Togo

Mount Klouto was the first stop on our Togo travel itinerary. After a bumpy six hour drive from Ghana’s Volta Region, our group arrived at the village of Kouma Konda. The village–a small settlement nestled in Togo’s verdant highlands–was our base for two days. During our two days on Mount Klouto, we stayed in the Hotel Campement de Kloto and took guided walks around the surrounding hillsides.

Mount Klouto is a 710 meter hill that is one of Togo’s tallest peaks. Dense forest blankets the mountainsides, punctuated by gently cascading streams and waterfalls. These verdant woodlands constitute an ideal habitat for over 1,000 species of butterflies.

On the day of our arrival in Togo, we took a short guided hike to the summit of Mount Klouto. The hike afforded views of Mount Agou, the Volta Region in Ghana and the nearby town of Kpalime.

On the following day–led by a local naturalist guide who explained the flora and fauna of the area–our group participated in a guided walk through the surrounding villages.

During our hike, we visited a schoolhouse,  bought beautiful batik art and learned about about the plants and animals that inhabit the slopes of Mount Klouto. The final destination of our hike was a refreshing waterfall where we were able to immerse ourselves in nature while letting the buildup of grime and sweat wash off our bodies.

After two days in the highlands of Togo, we descended to the lowlands and stopped at the sprawling Kpalime Market to stock up on food. The next destination on our Togo travel itinerary was the beautiful Koutammakou UNESCO site that spans a large area of northern Togo and Benin. To reach our destination, we would have two long days of driving up the spine of Togo.

But first, our drivers suggested we stop at a sacred bat valley near Kpalime.

The Sacred Bat Valley near Kpalime

Central Togo’s valley of bats is home to millions of winged mammals. The local population traditionally viewed the bat population as a source of food. In recent years, however, the bats inhabiting the valley have been protected and deemed sacred.

Our guide led us down a dusty red path, into a forested valley. From the path, I could see bats cloaking every inch of the forest. As soon as our guide clapped his hands, we heard ominous cries. Bats flew from trees in the thousands, forming an inky cloud in the afternoon sky.

The bat valley in Central Togo is so obscure that I’m not even sure it has an official name. It isn’t mentioned in travel guides or recognized as being one of the top things to see in Togo.

Yet, though we stumbled upon it somewhat unexpectedly, the sacred bat-filled valley near Kpalime quickly made a home for itself amongst our list of top Togo attractions.

Koutammakou UNESCO Site in Northern Togo

If there is one major thing to see in Togo, Koutammakou is it. An undeniable highlight of travel to West Africa, Koutammakou is a  UNESCO World Heritage Site that spans a large swath of land across northern Togo and Benin.

Koutammakou is a living cultural landscape inhabited by the Batammariba people. Encompassing a dry, baobab-speckled plain, the area contains a smattering of remarkable two-story houses called takienta. The takienta mud houses have become a symbol of Togo.

In Benin, the area is known by a different name: Tata Somba, or land of the Somba people.

We spent very little time in the Koutammakou area of Togo and chose, instead, to visit the Tata Somba houses for a few days in nearby Benin. Nevertheless, driving though the UNESCO-protected area was unforgettable.

From the roof seats of our big orange bus, we watched daily life unfold around us. Men and women sat in the shade of large baobab trees, searching for respite from the relentless heat of the Sahel. Children ran down dusty streets toward water pumps, balancing large pots on their heads.

All the while, there seemed to be no other tourists in sight.

Driving through Koutammakou gave us a fascinating glimpse into one of West Africa’s best-preserved cultural landscapes. Due to the site’s remote location and relative obscurity, the interactions we had with locals seemed both genuine and authentic–reminding me much of my visit to the Himba villages in Northern Namibia.

Togoville: Voodoo Village on Lake Togo

Our West Africa overlanding itinerary brought us from Togo’s Koutammakou World Heritage Site into Benin’s Tata Somba area. From there, we spent about ten days traveling the length of Benin, before re-entering Togo near the capital of Lome.

Our second visit to Togo was shorter than the first. After a relatively easy border crossing from Benin, we reached our campsite near Agbrodafo and spent the remainder of the day relaxing by the lakeside beach.

On the following day, we took a day trip by dugout canoe, across the lake’s shallow waters, to the voodoo town of Togoville.

Confusingly, the city of Togoville (originally known as Togo) became the capital of Togoland (the present-day country of Togo) when King Mlapa III and explorer Gustav Nachtigal signed a treaty granting Germany jurisdiction over the area. Togoland become one of Germany’s colonies and Togo (the present-day city of Togoville) became the first capital of the country. 

The Togoville Cathedral stands as a testament to Germany’s colonial history in Togo. The cathedral, built in 1910, sits adjacent to a shrine that commemorates the Virgin Mary’s alleged apparition on Lake Togo. The cathedral and its adjacent shrine are undeniably Togoville’s top tourist attractions.

The most interesting aspect of the Togoville Cathedral is its depiction of black African saints. According to our guide, the saints were drawn as black Africans in order to appeal to the locals dissuade them from practicing Voodoo.

The appeal didn’t work, however. Voodoo shrines are everywhere in Togoville. And today, Togoville remains one of the most prominent Voodoo centers in Africa.

After our visit to the Togoville Cathedral, we strolled the pleasant streets of Togo’s former capital and discovered its numerous active places of worship. The voodoo shrines offered a fascinating glimpse into a religion that is foreign and often misunderstood in the West.

***

Travel to Togo is tough. Even seasoned adventurers should think twice about what visiting this remote corner of West Africa entails. Traveling to Togo means foregoing luxuries that are commonplace throughout much of the world. The food is basic, accommodation options are rudimentary and tourist amenities are virtually nonexistent.

Tourists seeking to check attractions off their bucket lists have little reason to travel to Togo. With few big-name attractions or must-see sites, there is little consensus on the best things to see and do in the tiny strip of land.

Instead, I found that Togo’s beauty lies in its vibrant colors and its adherence to beliefs that predate colonial influences.

By traveling to Togo, those looking to get under Africa’s skin and experience a place that is still raw, authentic and miles from the nearest tourist trap, may just find what they are looking for.

The post Togo Travel Guide: Overland Travel in West Africa appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Wander the sandy streets of tiny Goree Island in Senegal, and you might begin to feel that you were stuck in time. The tiny island off the coast of West Africa is a colonial gem with a relaxed Afro-European vibe. It is a place where sandy streets meander through groves of baobabs, where fishermen set out on vibrantly colored boats to find their fresh catch of the day, and where women walk the streets clothed in traditional batiks.

Goree Island is a picturesque place that feels worlds away from the freneticism of nearby Dakar. It is laid-back, car-free, and aesthetically pleasing.

If you look at the two pictures below, you might think they were taken at a house in the French countryside. Or perhaps in a quaint Italian village, where centuries-old crumbling houses have colorful coats of paint, green shutters and cascades of flowers and vines tumbling out of the crevices in the walls.

You probably wouldn’t think that these images were actually taken on a small island in Senegal, West Africa–a place associated with some of the worst horrors of the 19th century.

But they were.

The Island of Goree: A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Goree Island is one of the top things to see near Dakar and a must-see attraction during any trip to Senegal. For not only is the island a tranquil and beautiful place to spend the afternoon, but it is also one of the most historically-important places in West Africa.

From the 15th to the 19th century, Goree Island was one of the largest slave-trading centers in West Africa. Like Ouidah in Benin and Cape Coast in Ghana, it is a place from which thousands of black Africans were ripped from their homelands and sentenced to a life of indentured servitude in the Americas.

Ruled at various points by the Portuguese, Dutch, English and French, Goree Island’s architecture is very much reminiscent to that of colonial towns in other parts of Africa and the Americas. Its architecture displays the contrast between the grim slave quarters and the elegant houses of the slave traders.

Today, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Goree Island serves as a reminder of human exploitation at its most vile. And thanks, in part, to President Obama’s much-publicized visit in 2013, the island has become a renowned symbol of West Africa’s horrifying past.

Goree Island Day Trip from Dakar

I visited Goree Island as a day trip from Dakar on the second day of my short sojourn in Senegal. Since nobody else on my crew was particularly interested in taking a day trip to visit this famous trans-Atlantic gateway, I set off by myself on what I thought would be an hour-long tour of the island. It turns out that I spent nearly six hours roaming the picturesque streets, taking in the ocean views and watching local life unfold.

As it turned out, I loved Goree so much that I spent over six hours lounging about the island, admiring the colors around me and delving into its rich history.

• Getting to Goree Island from Dakar

In order to reach Goree Island from Dakar, I took a passenger ferry from the the gare maritime. The ferry from Dakar to Goree runs regularly from 6:15am until after midnight. The journey takes roughly twenty minutes and costs 5,200 CFA for non-residents.

Goree Island’s House of Slaves

Though Goree Island is perfectly picturesque, the UNESCO World Heritage Site is known more for its dark past than for its display of flowers, beaches and pretty buildings.

Perhaps the most notable tourist attraction on Goree Island is the “House of Slaves”–a pink-washed museum and slave trade memorial that houses the infamous “Door of no Return.”

The actual relevance of the House of Slaves (and Goree Island in Senegal as a whole) in the trans-Atlantic slave trade has been debated by historians for the past century. Today it has become a place many associate with African slavery, though some argue that the principal gateways were actually elsewhere in Senegal and that very few slaves likely departed Africa from Goree Island.

Nevertheless, the House of Slaves and its Door of no Return have become symbols of the dark era in Africa’s past and a place of remembrance for the millions who lost their lives on the perilous voyage across the seas. perilous voyage across the seas.

Goree Island’s place in Africa’s history books may not have been as significant as many believe, but a visit to the island is powerful and sobering nonetheless. Today, the island draws a mix of local day-trippers from Dakar seeking a getaway from frenetic city life, African American visitors seeking to reconnect with their roots, and a few curious tourists like me–tourists curious about delving deeper into the history of one of Senegal’s most beautiful, yet complex, destinations.

***

I visited Goree Island at a time when Ebola-related fears rocked the world. But I didn’t listen to those who tried to dissuade me from visiting Dakar. Instead, I used my own judgement to decide whether I felt safe going to Senegal.

And I’m glad I did.

Because visiting Goree Island presented me with an experience that was at once relaxing, enriching, educational, and sobering.

The post The Beautiful Goree Island in Senegal appeared first on Erika's Travels .

For most Americans, the holiday season conjures images of tree decorating, gift-giving and wintry weather. It is difficult for many of us to imagine Christmas without also thinking of snowflakes, sleigh bells and a yearly visitor from the North Pole. And, though I remember very few years in which we actually had a white Christmas in Oregon growing up, the cold winter weather did not make it difficult to imagine a snowy wonderland outside.

It rarely occurred to me that, for those, living South of the equator, Christmas and snowflakes do not necessarily go hand in hand.

Until 2013, when Dan and I spent the holiday season in South Africa and our notion of Christmas was flipped upside down.

Once we learned that we would be spending the 2013 holiday season in South Africa, Dan and I figured we might as well spend it in the sun at a beach–since finding a winter wonderland nearby seemed an unlikely possibility. Besides, I was excited to fully immerse myself in the Christmas experience of those hailing from the southern hemisphere.

So, on Christmas day, Dan and I ventured toward a beach near the iSimangaliso Wetland Park in St Lucia and prepared for a day of soaking up Vitamin D in the warmth of the African sun.

But Christmas decided to throw a curveball our way.

Shortly after we arrived at the beach, we locked our keys in the car. And thus began a day-long process of finding a locksmith in the area that would actually be open on Christmas Day. Finally, with the help of police officers, we found a locksmith in Richards Bay–a city more than 150km away. We took a seat outside of the police station, twiddled our thumbs and waiting for the locksmith to arrive.

Despite the lack of cold weather and holiday cheer, it was hardly the Christmas we’d imagined.

***

Hluhluwe Imfolozi: The Best Place to See Rhinos in the Wild

Perhaps our South African Christmas didn’t go exactly as planned, but spending December 26th at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi National Park more than made up for our misadventures the previous day. Hluhluwe Imfolozi is the oldest nature reserve in Africa and spreads for nearly 1,000 square kilometers over the hilly, lush terrain of Kwazulu-Natal. The wildlife reserve is known for its remarkable rhino conservation efforts.

If we had come to South Africa and only visited Hluhluwe-Imfolozi National Park, it would have probably been difficult for us to understand the country’s dire rhino poaching problems. The park is chock-full  of these beautiful animals.

In the early 1900s, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi spearheaded a preservation campaign that is largely responsible for bringing the white rhinos back from the brink of extinction.

Yet, rhino poaching is still a major problem in South Africa. Every year, poaching claims the lives of hundreds of animals whose horns are sold in Asia for medicinal purposes. Though rhino poaching is illegal, the demand for rhino horns is so great that selling them in the black market remains a lucrative business.

Hluhluwe Imfolozi has not entirely escaped poachers, but the park still boasts the highest concentration of rhinos in the world. It is the best place to see rhinos in the wild and a safari in Hluhluwe Imfolozi will undoubtedly result in numerous rhino encounters.

During our Hluhluwe Imfolozi safari, we encountered upwards of forty rhinos.

Other Animals in Hluhluwe Imfolozi

Although the park is known for its robust rhino population, many other animals find a home in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi as well. The game reserve houses Africa’s Big 5 as well as a diverse array of small predators, herbivores and birds. Throughout our self-guided game drive, we had many wonderful wildlife encounters, despite the thick foliage and tall grasses of the rainy season.

Our most prized animal sighting came toward the end of our drive, while Dan and I were finishing our loop of the park. We were meandering along one of the park’s smaller roads when, all of a sudden, we encountered a line of cars stopped near a dry riverbed.

Dan and I rolled down our windows and craned our necks to see what was going on, but found nothing except for grasses and shrubs. We asked the passengers in the stopped car in front of us, but the driver merely shrugged and pointed at the other cars, suggesting they knew something he did not. When the cars lined up in front finally continued on their way, we pulled up into their places and scanned our surroundings.

And then we saw the prize. Sitting under a tree in the distance was a pack of rare painted dogs, whose patchy brown and black fur camouflaged perfectly into the surrounding area.

The dogs were far away and I had to sit on the car’s window ledge to see them. I took out my camera and screwed on the 300mm zoom lens to try to capture an image of the animals.

Though the quality of the image is compromised due to the extended zoom and significant cropping, I am happy that we were able to at least capture a photo during our safari in Hluhluwe Imfolozi.

Seeing the dogs was a belated Christmas gift that nearly made us forget our misadventures the previous day.

It rounded out an incredible week of wildlife sightings and was a great finale to our whirlwind three-week tour of South Africa.

***

Note: To read more about the endangered painted dogs, check out Carol’s article about the poaching and conservation of painted dogs in  Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park. 

The post Game Drive in Hluhluwe Imfolozi: A South African Rhino Safari appeared first on Erika's Travels .