Egypt is full of bucket list attractions: the Pyramids of Giza, the Great Sphinx, the Valley of the Kings, and the Egyptian Museum, to name a few. These archeological sites reveal an ancient history of unrivaled richness that has greatly influenced the world we live in today.

Yet, while most tourists visit Egypt for its historical treasures, the country’s natural wonders are equally captivating. Experiencing Egypt’s White Desert on an overnight tour reveals a landscape draped in mystery and intrigue, where nature’s delicate geologic formations rival some of the country’s greatest human-engineered creations.

THE WHITE DESERT IN EGYPT

The White Desert lies roughly 175km southwest of the Bahariya Oasis. It is the crown jewel of Egypt’s Western Desert, and one of the most distinctive natural landscapes in North Africa.  Characterized by its brilliant chalk spires that resemble icebergs in a sea of sand, it a vast and barren expanse of elemental beauty.

The White Desert’s ethereal rock formations sprout almost supernaturally from the ground. Like clouds, they take on shapes both familiar and unfamiliar—sculpted by desert winds over millennia.

The White Desert itself is the highlight of many overnight tours to Egypt’s Western Desert, but it is by no means the only place to visit in the area. All around, the parched landscapes of western Egypt give way to lunar topographies and otherworldly views.

WHITE DESERT TOUR WITH DAHAB HOSTEL

We chose to book a White Desert tour with Dahab Hostel, despite the frustrations we experienced with their Nile River cruise. At only $85 per person, the price of the overnight desert tour was simply unbeatable.

Our tour included shared transport to the Bahariya Oasis, lunch at a hotel, jeep transport into the Black and White Deserts, a barbecue buffet dinner, and a night of camping under the area’s scintillating blanket of stars.

GETTING TO THE WHITE DESERT

Like mashrutkas in Eastern Europe, trotros in Ghana, and combis in Southern Africa, cramped minivans that leave when full are a popular mode of transport in Egypt.  We soon learned that Dahab Hostel’s low tour price is due—in large part—to the fact that it uses this popular form of local transport for travel between Cairo and the Bahariya Oasis.

On the day of our departure, we woke up early and caught a taxi to the minibus station. There, we waited for the desert-bound minivan to fill with passengers. But the slow trickle of people caused us to wait for more than two hours, with no sign of the van filling up.

Finally, afraid that we would miss all the best daylight hours of our tour, Dan and I paid an extra $10 per person and convinced the driver to leave early.

If your Egypt budget allows, I recommend shopping around for White Desert tour options. Most other companies offer private 4X4 transport between Cairo and Bahariya. They are, however, significantly more expensive.

Since Dan and I each saved over $100 by taking a tour with Dahab Hostel, we were happy to shell out a few extra dollars in order to expedite our trip to the Bahariya Oasis. We figured that the earlier we made it to our destination, the more time we would be able to spend in the Black and White Deserts.

THE BAHARIYA OASIS

The Bahariya Oasis is probably the most accessible oasis in Egypt and the gateway to the country’s great sand sea. Human settlement in the area dates back to ancient Egyptian times, when it was a major agricultural center. Today, the oasis town still produces large quantities of dates, mangos, and guavas.

The Bahariya Oasis itself was not a part of our White Desert tour itinerary. From the limited time I spent in the area, I could tell it was worlds away from Cairo. About 35,000 people live in Bahariya. The population is mostly Beduin, and largely conservative. Few women roam the streets, and most of those that do are clad in black from head to toe.

Once we arrived in Bahariya, we met our guide and transferred to the Ahmed Safari Camp for lunch. There, we teamed up with five other travelers for an unforgettable overnight adventure into one of the most geologically interesting swaths of the Sahara.

THE BLACK DESERT

The desert around the Bahariya Oasis is flat, bleak and uninspiring. About 50km south of the oasis, however, a change in the desert floor’s textures and colors signals the beginning of the Black Desert.

Egypt’s Black Desert looks as though it has been torched from the area’s intense summer sun.

When we reached the charred landscape, our tour guide let us out of the car for about 20 minutes and suggested we scramble up one of the area’s conical peaks.

From our elevated vantage point, we could see hundreds of ebony-plated peaks extend skyward, interrupting the monotony of their beige surroundings.

CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN

From the Black Desert, we continued onward, to Crystal Mountain—a massive rock made entirely of quartz. The sparkly hunk of rock lies just off the main road and is a popular attraction on Egypt desert tours.

As with the Black Desert, our 20 minute pitstop at Crystal Mountain gave us minimal time to explore the area.

Regardless, found enough time to scramble up the mountain, examine its unique sparkly surface, and revel in our gold-tinted Wadi-Rum-like environs.

THE AGABAT VALLEY

From Crystal Mountain, our 4×4 jeep turned off the main road and pummeled over the sand, up a mountainside, and into the Agabat Valley.

When we reached Agabat, Dan and I gasped in unison. We immediately began to understand the spell that Egypt’s desert landscapes cast on travelers.

A vast panorama of dunes swirled around the base of gold-colored monoliths. patches of white chalk scattered among the sand like dollops of freshly whipped cream. It was magical. Enchanting. Breathtaking.

And unlike the Pyramids of Giza or the archeological sites that we visited up and down the Nile, the Agabat Valley in Egypt’s Western Desert was remarkably crowd-free.

The driver of our 4×4 vehicle navigated the deep sands of the Agabat Valley like a seasoned professional.

I was beginning to realize that—despite its apparent disorganization at the start—our tour to the White Desert with Dahab Hostel was turning out to be an undeniable highlight of our Egypt itinerary.

WHITE DESERT ROCK FORMATIONS

The classic landscapes of Egypt’s White Desert begin beyond the Agabat Valley. Here, far from civilization, a forest of chalk spires rises from the Earth’s sandy surface in a whimsical display of nature at its best.

The rock formations of the White Desert in Egypt are textbook examples of ventifact. This phenomenon occurs when wind blows sand particles a few feet above the earth. Over time, the bouncing sand grains erode the lower portions rock, while leaving larger caps.

Like children trying to determine the shapes of clouds, Dan and I found ourselves peering out the car window and calling out the shapes of rocks as they zoomed past us. Some chalk spires resembled animals, others looked like people. Some resembled pillow-top mushrooms, others reached toward the sky like amorphous lopsided blobs.

CAMPING IN THE WHITE DESERT

As we reached the White Desert, the setting winter sun cast shadows over the landscape. I was grateful that we arrived in the area in time for sunset. I was even able to capture a few photos of my surroundings before the sky faded to black.

Meanwhile, our guide set up camp. He cooked us a delicious meal—one of the best we had during our entire monthlong trip through Egypt and Sudan—and kept a fire going for much of the night.

A few other White Desert camping tour groups were scattered about the distance, but we were otherwise completely isolated.

Since I’d heard many traveler’s rave about the stars in western Egypt, I was initially disappointed that we visited the White Desert during a full moon. I feared that increased light would drown out the stars.

But as it turns out, visiting during a full moon is magical in its own right. I wager it might even be more magical than seeing the area under a blanket of stars.

For on full moon nights, the desert’s chalk formations shine in the darkness like glow-in-the-dark mushrooms. They illuminate the surrounding landscape long after nightfall—making it possible to explore the surreal landscape even hours after the sun has set.

IS THE WHITE DESERT SAFE FOR VISITORS?

On a whole, the Black and White Deserts in Egypt are safe for visitors.

However, because of instability in neighboring Libya, there is still a low risk of crime and kidnapping in the area. The Egyptian army has little control over the vast stretches of land west of Cairo.

I have no reservations in recommending Western Desert tours, as travelers are unlikely to encounter problems in the area.

As always, however, I encourage you to stay up to date with current advisories and take normal precautions.

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Egypt’s historical and archeological gems are undeniable. They represent some of the most iconic and beloved tourist attractions on Earth.

Yet, our tour to the Black and White Deserts in Egypt’s western reaches, proves that—in addition to housing human-made treasures of great importance—the country is home to natural wonders that are older than the pyramids and as sublime as any temple.

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The Nile River is the blood that flows through Egypt’s veins. Over the course of 5,000 years, it has sustained civilizations and allowed them to flourish in an otherwise inhospitable land. Without the waters of the Nile, Ancient Egypt would have never existed. And consequently, it is thanks to this great river that today’s world has things like paper, makeup, writing and irrigation.

The banks of the Nile in Upper Egypt (geographically the lower part of the country) lay claim to one of the world’s largest open air museums. Boasting ancient tombs adorned in colorful reliefs and temples preserved for millennia beneath layers of desert sand, the Nile River Valley is a place of unparalleled historical wealth and unrivaled cultural significance.

NILE CRUISE FROM LUXOR TO ASWAN

In order to best explore the sites along the Nile, Dan and I booked a four day tour with Dahab Hostel in downtown Cairo. The tour package consisted of a three day Nile cruise and one night in a Luxor hotel. The cruise itinerary included a comfortable cabin, three meals per day, transport and guides. For $350 per person, we felt as though we were getting a great deal. And what’s more, the tour included a free hot air balloon ride in Luxor and a free day trip to the Saqqara and Dashur Pyramids near Cairo.

Yet, while we found the package deal to be cheaper than other Luxor-Aswan cruise options, we soon learned why. From start to finish, the Nile cruise was a comedy of errors that left us guessing, frustrated, and downright confused.

When we booked our Nile cruise, we did not know the company we would be traveling with, or any details pertaining to our itinerary. We merely jumped at the opportunity to book a tour with Dahab Hostel, since we couldn’t refuse the advertised price.

It became immediately apparent, however, that the tour would consist of a series of moving parts that each work independently of one another. Each step of the way, we were told what our next activity would be: nothing more, nothing less. None of the drivers or guides could answer our itinerary-related questions, nor did they know any of the tour logistics outside of their immediate responsibilities. At one point, we even woke up unnecessarily for a 5am hot air balloon ride that never materialized. After waiting in the hotel lobby for nearly two hours, we found out that it was actually scheduled for the following day.

I have no way of knowing if our experience was an anomaly, or if all Egypt cruise packages require a test of patience. I’m fully aware that we visited during a particularly busy week of the year, and that slower months may offer visitors a more relaxed travel experience.

There are dozens of different cruise lines that travel between Luxor and Aswan. They might all have slightly different aesthetics and cater to varying budgets, but they all follow the same itinerary, as if part of a caravan.

OUR NILE CRUISE ITINERARY

From Cairo, our Nile Valley tour included an overnight train to Luxor. There, Dan and I spent the night at a hotel and had the liberty of exploring the city’s sites on our own, before the start of our cruise to Aswan.

Following visits to both the East Bank and West Bank of Luxor, we boarded the Chateau Lafayette and sailed to Aswan. Along the way, we stopped at the temples of Edfu and Kom Ombo.

And finally, on the day we were scheduled to return to Cairo by overnight train, we squeezed in visits to Abu Simbel (nearly 6 hours away round trip), the Philae Temple, and the Aswan High Dam.

It was a whirlwind itinerary that consisted of boatloads of confusion (literally), awkward New Year’s Eve dance parties, and visits to Egypt’s most impressive and beautiful temples.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN TEMPLES ALONG THE NILE

The temples of Egypt are a string of superb UNESCO-recognized wonders that lie scattered along the banks of the Nile. The fertile plains boast an embarrassment of riches that extend from the Mediterranean Sea, to the deserts of Sudan.

Within the span of three days, we crammed in as many temples as we could, stuffed our brains with as much new information as possible (thanks to the History of Egypt Podcast on Spotify), and left knowing a whole lot more about the mysterious and magical world of Ancient Egypt.

THE TEMPLE’S OF LUXOR’S EAST BANK

Luxor is one of the world’s greatest open air museums, and the heart of Upper Egypt. The city—known as Thebes in ancient times—boasts some of the oldest and best preserved monuments of the ancient world.

The undeniable highlights of Luxor’s East Bank are the outstanding twin temples of Luxor and Karnak.

• THE KARNAK TEMPLE

The Karnak Temple is an extraordinary complex of sanctuaries, pylons and obelisks dedicated to the Theban Triad (the Egyptian god Amun, his wife Mut, and their son, Khonsu). The temple is huge; large enough to contain ten cathedrals.

Barring the Pyramids of Giza, it is the most awe-inspiring of Egypt’s ancient wonders.

The Great temple of Amun is the pinnacle of Egyptian architectural relics. At its heart, lies the Hypostyle Hall—a 6,000 square meter room that contains a forest of decorated colonnades.

Our Nile River cruise itinerary allocated only an hour’s visit to Karnak. However, thank’s to a scheduling snafu that gave us an extra day in Luxor, we took an entire afternoon to explore the site on our own. Armed with a dated Bradt Guide and a solid pair of walking shoes, we spent four hours admiring the temple’s hieroglyphs, reading about its significance, and  exploring its smaller rooms and ceremonial complexes.

Visiting Karnak on our own gave us the freedom to explore the lesser-known areas of the archeological site. We admired the Temple of Khonsu, found a wall containing the world’s first documented peace treaty, and gazed out over the Avenue of the Sphinxes.

Then, after meticulously studying the temple from top to bottom and side to side, we met up with our guide and headed to the Luxor Temple.

• THE LUXOR TEMPLE

The Luxor Temple sits at the heart of modern-day Luxor. New Kingdom pharaohs, Amenhotep III and Ramses II, built the temple for ceremonial purposes.  During the annual Opet celebrations, statues of the Theban Triad were brought from Karnak to Luxor in a procession of barques, along the Avenue of Sphinxes.

In the centuries following the decline of Ancient Egypt, sand and silt buried Luxor’s magnificent temple and aided in the preservation of its stunning reliefs. Atop the temple, subsequent generations built a bustling town complete with mud-brick houses and shops. In the 14th century, residents of Luxor constructed a mosque atop the buried temple.

When archeologists began excavating the Luxor Temple in 1885, they cleared away the surrounding village structures and relocated much of the city’s population.

The mosque, however, still remains.

The Temple of Luxor illustrates Egypt’s historical legacies. Toward the back of the temple, an antechamber reveals walls that the Romans plastered over and converted into a Christian chapel.

The chapel’s colorful depictions are still visible today.

THE THEBAN NECROPOLIS ON LUXOR’S WEST BANK

The two sides of Luxor represent the duality of life and death in Ancient Egypt. While the East Bank of Luxor (where the sun rises) is associated with rituals pertaining to life, the Nile’s West Bank (where the sun sets) contains themes associated with death. The arid and colorless desert of Luxor’s West bank contains some of Egypt’s most outstanding temples and mortuary complexes. 

The temples and tombs strewn about Luxor’s West Bank were built with the intention of honoring the eternal rule of Egypt’s pharaohs. Their tombs are some of the most lavish and ornate in history—embossed in colorful reliefs that depict the passage to the afterlife.

• THE COLOSSI OF MEMNON

We began our guided tour of the West Bank with a brief visit to the Colossi of Memnon. The two reassembled statues rise majestically above the fertile plains of the Nile River Valley, as if guarding the tombs of the Theban Necropolis. Soaring 18 meters in the air, they are the first monuments that welcome visitors to Luxor’s West Bank.

The twin colossi weigh about 1,000 tons each. Originally carved out of solid blocks of rock, they tower over the funerary temple of Amenophis III.

Today, the Temple of Amenophis III lies largely in disrepair. At the time of our visit, however, excavations in the area were ongoing.

• THE TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSUT

Our tour to Luxor’s West Bank included a brief half hour visit to the modern-looking Temple of Hatshepsut. The temple lies against an escarpment of rugged rock and blends into its surroundings as if part of the natural landscape.

The mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut—known alternatively as Deir el Bahri—is set amidst a natural amphitheater in the Theban Hills. With its angular colonnades and three layered terraces, the temple has a modern and minimalist aesthetic that sets it apart from the other temples of the Nile Valley.

In comparison to some of the other better preserved temples, Deir el Bahri’s reliefs are difficult to decipher. However, we particularly enjoyed the temple’s colorful depictions of jackal-headed Anubis (protector of the dead)  and its chapel to the cow-headed goddess Hathor.

• THE VALLEY OF THE KINGS

After a whirlwind visit to the Temple of Hatshepsut, our tour brought us to the infamous Valley of the Kings—an area of tombs spread out over the bone-dry Theban Hills. Beyond the fertile plains of the Nile Valley, these barren and arid hills bely the magic that lies hidden underground.

The Tombs of the Kings were built to immortalize the Egyptian pharaohs. Each tomb consists of narrow passageways adorned in stunning reliefs. Upon their discovery, the tombs contained sarcophagi of the pharaohs. Today, however, most of the royal mummies and sarcophagi reside in museums elsewhere.

Over the millennia, tomb robbers, floods and mass tourism (dating back to Greek and Roman times) have wreaked havoc on the ancient necropolis.

Yet still, the depictions within the tombs remain visually striking.

Our entrance ticket to the archeological site included admission to three of the site’s 63 royal tombs. Our guide chose the tomb of Rameses IV, the tomb of Ramses IX and the tomb of Merenptah.

Due to lack of time, we skipped the Tomb of Tutankhamun. Visitors hoping to enter the burial chamber of one of Ancient Egypt’s most renowned young pharaohs, can purchase an additional ticket for 200LE. The relics discovered in Tutankhamun’s tomb, however,  are on display in Cairo’s Museum of Antiquities.

HOT AIR BALLOON OVER THE VALLEY OF THE KINGS

Our Nile cruise included a hot air balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. Since I passed up on the opportunity to fly in a balloon over the ruins of Bagan in Myanmar, the activity was one of the most anticipated moments of our tour. It did not disappoint.

Hot air balloon tours are a popular way of exploring the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. With tours costing as low as $60 per person, the Valley of the Kings is one of the cheapest places in the world to experience balloon rides.

Soaring above the Valley of the Kings provided us with an alternative perspective of the archeological site and its surroundings.

From up in the air, spectacular birds-eye-views of the arid mountainside and fertile Nile Valley unfolded before our eyes. Our elevated vantage point allowed us to see the abrupt transition between verdant fields of sugarcane and the orangey-hued desert. We could even spot the West Bank’s temples and tombs amidst the massifs of barren rock.

It was magical, surreal and serene. So antithetical to Egypt’s omnipresent chaos and confusion.

TEMPLES TO VISIT BETWEEN LUXOR AND ASWAN

After our hot air balloon adventure, we left Luxor and and began our journey up the Nile. As we cruised along the river, we spent time watching life unfold from our boat’s rooftop deck. Up and down the length of the river, we could see the fertile green plains fade into parched orange earth. We watched farmers bringing their donkeys to the water’s edge, and fishermen sail by on makeshift wooden boats.

On the following day—en route from Luxor to Aswan—we had the opportunity to stop by the temples of Edfu and Kom Ombo.

• EDFU TEMPLE

While each of our cruise stops along the Nile was rushed and disorganized, nowhere did this ring more true than at the great Temple of Edfu.

Though Edfu is one of the most beautiful temples in Egypt, our Nile tour did not do it justice in the slightest. A complete lack of organization, coupled with throngs of fellow tourists, made our visit so rushed that we had difficulty registering the beauty of our surroundings.

Picture this: five thousand people being funneled toward the temple on horse-drawn carriages, at the exact same time. The chaos was extraordinary, even for Egyptian standards.

Had we not traveled along the Nile precisely for the opportunity of visiting these Egyptian temples, we would have opted to turn back and wait in the boat alongside some of our fellow cruisers.

By the time we got to the Edfu Temple, we only had half an hour to explore.

But the Great Horus Temple at Edfu is not the type of place that can be toured in merely 30 minutes.  The Ptolemaic temple, built between 237 and 57 BC, is one of the best-preserved ancient monuments in Egypt.

The Edfu Temple owes its remarkable preservation to the desert sands that kept it hidden from the elements until the 1860s. Reliefs and inscriptions in the temple walls include allusions to the struggle between falcon-headed Horus and his brother, Seth.

• KOM OMBO TEMPLE

After a whirlwind tour of the Edfu Temple, we returned to our boat and set sail toward Kom Ombo. The transport-related confusion in Edfu delayed the remainder of our itinerary and caused us to arrive at Kom Ombo around sunset.

Kom Ombo overlooks the placid Nile waters. One of the most beautifully-situated temples in Egypt, it stands on a promontory at a bend in the Nile—at a place where sacred crocodiles once basked in the sun.

Luckily, our visit to Kom Ombo proved to be more relaxed. Since Kom Ombo lies along the banks of the Nile, we did not have to figure out transport. In addition, we had fewer crowds to contend with since many passengers opted to skip Kom Ombo after the epic kerfuffle at Edfu.

Though Kom Ombo is smaller than some of the other Nile Valley temples, it is unique for its dedication to two gods: the local crocodile god Sobek (god of fertility), and Haroeris (Horus the Elder).

A small crocodile museum lies adjacent to the temple. Visits to the museum are included in the Kom Ombo entrance ticket and feature mummified crocodiles of various sizes.

Photography of the crocodiles in the museum is not permitted.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN TEMPLES IN ASWAN AND ABU SIMBEL

The final day of our Nile cruise was a whirlwind from start to finish. Seeing all the temples near Aswan within a few short daylight hours was a bit like trying to run a marathon in an elevator. In retrospect, I wonder how we ever thought it would be possible to fit so many activities within a single day.

Still, everything seemed to work out in the end. The final day of our Nile cruise consisted of a 4am wakeup, followed by six hours on the bus round trip from Aswan to Abu Simbel. After returning to Aswan and before our overnight train back to Cairo, it included brief visits to the Philae Temple and Aswan High Dam.

• ABU SIMBEL TEMPLE

Abu Simbel is the southernmost temple in Egypt. It lies along the shores of Lake Nasser, only 40km from the Sudanese border. Aside from being extraordinary in its aesthetics, the temple is a modern marvel of engineering.

Carved out of the mountainside between 1274 and 1244 BC, Abu Simbel’s imposing main temple showcases the self-worshipping tendencies of Ramses II—Egypt’s most narcissistic pharaoh. In order to impress his power on the Nubians to the south, Ramses carved four colossal statues of himself into the mountainside. In the temple’s decor, the deified pharaoh physically overshadows the sun-god Re-Herakte, to whom Abu Simbel is nominally dedicated.

A smaller Hathor Temple lies just a stone’s throw away from the main ceremonial complex. The temple—dedicated to Queen Nefertari—is likewise hewn into the surrounding rock. Its exterior contains buttresses of Ramses II and his favorite wife.

In the 1960s, construction of the Aswan High Dam threatened to bury Abu Simbel under Lake Nasser’s reservoir. The prospect of losing the remarkable temple spearheaded a UNESCO-funded campaign to salvage Nubian monuments in Lake Nasser’s vicinity. In a feat of engineering that is almost as impressive as the construction of the temple itself, the campaign resulted in a complete relocation of the temple, piece by piece.

• THE ASWAN HIGH DAM

Upon returning to Aswan from Abu Simbel, our tour took us to visit the Aswan High Dam. While I wish our itinerary would have omitted a visit to the dam in lieu of dedicating more time to the Philae Temple, the engineering project is of undeniable significance and one of the most impressive facts about Egypt in modern times.

In the 1950s, Egyptian leader Gamal Abdel Nasser envisioned building a dam that would bring electric power to every corner of Egypt. It was a massive undertaking that remains one of the largest engineering projects of the 20th century.

The construction of the dam and subsequent formation of Lake Nasser required the resettlement of 90,000 Egyptian peasants and Sudanese Nubian nomads, as well as the costly relocation of the Abu Simbel and Philae Temples.

• PHILAE TEMPLE

The Philae Temple is the most prominent archeological site in Aswan. Though the temple dates to the end of the New Kingdom, Ptolomaic and Roman rulers constructed the majority of temple over the course of nearly 800 years. Thus, the archeological site is a harmonious fusion between ancient Egyptian and Greco-Roman architecture.

As with Abu Simbel, the encroaching waters of Lake Nasser compelled Egyptian authorities and UNESCO to relocate the Philae Temple to the shores of Aglika Island.

Today, the newly assembled temple sits majestically amidst volcanic outcrops, like a jewel on the River Nile. To reach it, we had to take a small boat from the site’s ticket office.

The Philae Temple’s twin towers and central doorway provide a grand entryway that is decorated with reliefs. Beyond, lies the Birth House of Ptolomy IV, the Hypostyle Hall, and the sanctuary of Isis.

Once we set foot on the small island, our tour guide gave us half an hour to explore.

As with the rest of the stops on our Nile cruise, it was not nearly enough time to discover the area.

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While our Nile cruise did not give us the time we would have liked to adequately visit the temples of Egypt at our leisure, its favorable price was too good to pass up. It was so good, in fact, that Dan and I dismissed our own advice and booked a tour to the White Desert with Dahab Hostel immediately upon our return.

Cruising between Luxor and Aswan allowed Dan and I to enjoy the temples of the Nile without the hassle of having to book our own transportation and figure out logistics. It allowed us to sit back, relax, and watch life unfold along the Nile’s riverbanks.

Sure, I would have loved to explore the temples at my own pace. I would have loved to relish my surroundings without  the crowds. I would have loved an itinerary that stayed true to what we booked.

Yet, though we were constantly kept in the dark, everything seemed to sort itself out in the end. And that is not too dissimilar to traveling Egypt as a whole, I suppose.

For no matter how frustrating and disorienting an experience, visiting the country is worthwhile in every sense of the word.

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Though you’ve likely seen countless images of the Egyptian Pyramids, nothing can compare to witnessing their impeccable grandeur and geometry face-to-face.

The Pyramids of Giza are one of the world’s most recognizable landmarks and the last remaining wonder of the Ancient World—must-see on any Cairo itinerary.

Simply put, they are extraordinary.

However, while the Pyramids of Giza are the most famous, they are far from the only pyramids in Egypt.

The Egyptian Pyramids

The Egyptian pyramids, built between 2686–2181 BC, are among the world’s oldest human-engineered structures. Only a few archaeological sites on Earth—such as the Neolithic site of Göbeklitepe in Turkey and the Ġgantija Temples of Malta—can claim to be older.

The pyramids of Egypt served as grand tombs for pharaohs and symbols of divine authority. These structures marked a shift from simple mastaba tombs to monumental architecture. They represent a remarkable feat of early human engineering.

Egypt’s pyramids remain the world’s only standing ancient wonder. Some wonders (the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the Colossus of Rhodes and the Statue of Zeus in Olympia) live on only in legend and history books. Others, like the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, the Lighthouse of Alexandria, and the Mausoleum of Helicarnassus in Bodrum lie in ruined fragments.

There are 118 identified Egyptian Pyramids, two thirds of which lie within the Kingdom of Kush in modern-day Sudan. Beyond Giza, the most famous pyramids are found at the ancient sites of Saqqara and Dahshur.

Many travelers, pressed for time, may be tempted to skip the pyramids of Saqqara and Dahshur in favor of Giza. That’s understandable—Giza’s pyramids are awe-inspiring. But Egypt’s older and lesser-known pyramids are not to be missed either.

At Dahshur and Saqqara, we didn’t encounter long lines or touts advertising camel rides. Nor did we feel constantly on guard against scams. Instead, visiting these smaller pyramids allowed us to dive headfirst into Ancient Egypt, while enabling us to enjoy a more relaxed travel experience.

The Pyramids of Saqqara

Saqqara sits above the Nile Valley, west of Cairo.  Covering a large  seven kilometer swath of desert, it is Egypt’s largest archaeological site, as well as its oldest. The Necropolis of Saqqara dates back to the Third Dynasty, nearly 5,000 years ago.

For history buffs and curious tourists interested in the origins of the Pyramids, visiting the area is a must.

Due to limited time, our self-guided Saqqara tour included the Pyramids of Djoser and Teti. Yet travelers with more time may want to also visit the Tomb of Kagemni and the Mastaba of Ti (both accessible with the same entrance ticket).

Had we done more research before visiting Saqqara, we would have made time to include these additional sites in our Cairo itinerary as well.

• The Pyramid of Djoser 

The Pyramid of Djoser is the most significant archeological remain in the Saqqara Necropolis. As the world’s oldest royal tomb, it is the the foundation upon which later pyramids were built. 

Commonly known as the Step Pyramid, Djoser’s tomb is unique in its design. Unlike the later pyramids with smooth triangular faces, this structure rises in a series of terraces, resembling a layered wedding cake.

At the time of our visit, the pyramid’s interior was closed to tourists.

• The Pyramid of Teti 

Before our visit, Dan and I knew nothing about Pharaoh Teti. Yet, his unassuming pyramid turned out to be a highlight of our Cairo itinerary.

• Matsaba of Ti

Built for Ti, a high-ranking official and royal overseer, the mastaba is a non-royal tomb renowned for its exceptionally well-preserved reliefs depicting daily life. Engravings contain scenes of hunting and fishing that date back to the Fifth Dynasty, around 2400 BC.

• Tomb of Kagemni

Like the Matsaba of Ti, the Tomb of Kagemni is famous for its bas-reliefs that depict everyday scenes from life in 2300 BC. Built for Kagemni, a high-ranking official under King Teti, its scenes of people hunting, fishing, and dancing provide a glimpse into Egyptian royal society during the Sixth Dynasty.

The Pyramids of Giza

The Pyramids of Giza are a hyperbole of magnificence and craftsmanship. Alongside the great ruins of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the Moai on Easter Island, and the Nabetean Ruins of Petra in Jordan, the destination remains one of the most mysterious and iconic famous landmarks on Earth.

The Giza Necropolis consists of three main pyramids—Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure—and a number of smaller associated pyramids.

• The Khufu Pyramid

The Pyramid of Khufu, also known as the Great Pyramid of Giza, is the largest and most famous of the three pyramids on the Giza Plateau. Built around 2580 BC, it was the tallest man-made structure in the world for over 3,800 years.

The Great Pyramid costs extra to enter. And though its interior is more crowded, more more expensive, and less aesthetically interesting than the that of the pyramids in Dahshur and Saqqara, I’m glad I decided to fork over the money and channel my inner Indiana Jones.

• Khafre

Though slightly smaller than the Great Pyramid, the Khafre Pyramid appears taller due to its steeper angle and elevated location. It is notable for still having some of its original smooth casing stones near the top.

• Menkaure

The smallest of the three main pyramids at Giza was built for Pharaoh Menkaure around 2510 BC. Forged using limestone and granite, its materials make it unique among the Giza pyramids. Archaeological evidence suggests the pyramid may have been left unfinished at the time of Menkaure’s death.

• The Great Sphinx and Valley Temple

If the Pyramids of Giza are the universal symbol of Egypt, then the Sphinx is runner-up. Carved out of a single hunk of rock, the mythical lion-man statue stands guard over the Great Pyramid Complex.

Located near the Khafre Pyramid and thought to represent Pharaoh Khafre, it was likely built around 2500 BC during the Fourth Dynasty.

The Sphinx is the oldest known monumental sculpture in Egypt.

Many travelers have expressed surprise at the Sphinx’s small size relative to the Pyramids (it is often photographed in the foreground, where perspective is skewed).

Strangely, upon seeing the Great Sphinx, my reaction was the opposite.

• Best Views of the Pyramids 

For all-encompassing views of the three Pyramids, most tour buses stop along the road that runs behind the archeological site. Beyond the road, a pyramid alignment viewpoint boasts superior panoramas of the structures and their surroundings.

Camel tours often lead visitors to the alignment viewpoint, but walking only takes about fifteen minutes from the Menkaure Pyramid.

Whether you travel by horse, by camel, or on foot, I recommend you include the viewpoint in your itinerary. The vistas are simply breathtaking.

• The Pyramid Sound and Light Show

Every evening, the Egyptian pyramids come to life in a spectacle of lights and music. The Pyramid Sound and Light Show, held at the Giza Plateau, uses colorful lighting to illuminate the Great Pyramid of Khufu, the Pyramid of Khafre, the Pyramid of Menkaure, and the Sphinx. Alongside music and dramatic storytelling—with the Sphinx as a narrator—the show recounts the history of the the Pharaohs, the construction of the pyramids, and the legacy of ancient Egyptian civilization.

The show typically lasts around 50 minutes and is available in multiple languages. Showtimes vary depending on the season.

Where to Stay near the Pyramids of Egypt

Dan and I spent the night in Giza in order to fully appreciate the beauty of the pyramids at night and in the early morning. Our decision to stay the night in Giza meant that we were able to beat the crowds and arrive at the entrance gates as soon as they opened, at 8:00am. 

If time permits, I wholeheartedly recommend you do the same.

A host of hotels in Giza compete for nearly-unobstructed views of the three triangular structures that loom above town.

We stayed at the Horus Guesthouse and enjoyed a basic yet favorably-priced pyramid-view room with a central location near the archeological site’s East Entrance.

For travelers seeking a step up in luxury, the Mariott Mena and Meridian Pyramids Hotel offer pools, gardens, and comfortable amenities with a view.

Egyptian Pyramid Tours

The iconic pyramids have captured the imaginations of travelers and historians for millennia. But their widespread appeal comes at a price. They are full of crowds, and full of hassle. 

While you can certainly visit the Pyramids of Egypt without a tour, the presence of a guide can be beneficial in warding off the Egypt’s notorious touts.

Dan and I visited the Pyramids of Giza independently. And as we attempted to soak in the glory of the ancient site, we experienced constant bombardment by people trying to sell us things. We declined seemingly thousands of requests to ride camels and deflected a number of scams by people claiming to be security guards.

There are tons of tour options for the Egyptian pyramids if you wish to avoid the hassle. Some include camel rides, ATVs and dinner, while others offer half-day excursions with private guides. If you want to ride a camel, reserving online in advance can give you the option of booking the experience without haggling or negotiation.

We really enjoyed visiting Egypt’s three main pyramid sites over the course of two days. But if you have limited time and still want to see structures beyond the most famous pyramids, you can join a full day tour that includes Giza alongside Saqqara and Dahshur.

When to Visit the Egyptian Pyramids

We traveled to Egypt over the New Year and encountered generally favorable weather. The tourist crowds, however, were overwhelming. We could hardly navigate some of the temples and pyramids.

During our Nile Cruise, our guide told us that Christmas week is often unbearably packed. So while the weather during winter is cool and comfortable, I suggest you try to skip the holidays if possible.

Try to avoid visiting during the summer if possible, since temperatures can be sizzling.

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The Pyramids of Egypt are a top global bucket list destination. Over 14 million visitors flock to the archaeological sites each year,  drawn by a desire to see the world’s only remaining ancient wonder.

The pyramids are a testament to the ingenuity and artistry of early human civilization. They remain an enduring symbols of Egypt’s power and legacy—still captivating scholars and visitors more than 4,000 years after their construction.

The post Guide to the Pyramids of Egypt appeared first on Erika's Travels .

With its constant chaos and commotion, Egypt’s largest city is not a place that often woos travelers at first sight. Cairo can be brash and overbearing and downright frustrating.

Yet in all its grime and glory, Cairo is full of fascinating places to visit.

The city’s museum of antiquities is among the best in the world. Its ancient neighborhoods are a kaleidoscope of culture and tradition.

And to top it all off, at the city’s periphery stand the Great Egyptian Pyramids—rising resolutely out of the barren earth as if guarding Cairo from the vastness of the desert beyond.

Three Days in Cairo and the Pyramids

Cairo and its surroundings would take weeks—if not months—to properly explore. The metropolis is huge, with mosque-studded neighborhoods extending along the Nile and deep into the reaches of the desert.

Like most casual travelers, Dan and I had limited time to dedicate to the historical sites in and around Cairo. Thus, with only three days in Cairo, we split our itinerary between the city itself and the western plateau upon which its most iconic monuments stand.

We began our trip to Cairo with a visit to the Pyramids of Dahshur and Saqqara—ancient Egypt’s oldest remaining relics. From there, we spent our second day ogling at the world-famous monuments at Giza and marveling at ancient treasures in the National Museum of Cairo.

On the third and final day of our Cairo itinerary, we focused on the hodgepodge of glorious gems that lie beneath Cairo’s dense layer of pollution and smog.

Day 1: The Pyramids of Saqqara and Dahshur

While most travelers with limited time might be tempted to skip the Pyramids of Saqqara and Dahshur in favor of spending more time in Giza, Egypt’s older and less-renowned pyramids are not to be missed.

At Dahshur and Saqqara, we didn’t encounter long lines, or touts advertising camel rides. Nor did we feel as though we were constantly on the lookout for scams. Instead, visiting the smaller pyramids allowed us to dive headfirst into Ancient Egypt, while offering a more relaxed travel experience.

In order to explore the archeological sites at our leisure, we hired a driver to pick us up in Cairo, take us to the Pyramids of Saqqara and Dahshur, and drop us off in Giza before sunset.

The Pyramids of Saqqara

Saqqara sits above the Nile Valley, west of Cairo.  Covering a large 7km swath of desert, it is Egypt’s largest archaeological site, as well as its oldest. The Necropolis of Saqqara dates back to the Third Dynasty, nearly 5,000 years ago.

For history buffs and curious tourists interested in the origins of the Pyramids, visiting the area is a must.

Entrance tickets include the Pyramid of Djoser, the Teti Pyramid, the Tomb of Kagemni and the Mastaba of Ti. Regrettably, we skipped the latter two. Had we fully done our research before visiting Saqqara, we would have found the time to include them in our Cairo itinerary as well.

• The Pyramid of Djoser

The Pyramid of Djoser is the most significant archeological remain in the Saqqara Necropolis. As the world’s oldest royal tomb, it is the the foundation upon which later pyramids were built. 

The Djoser Pyramid—also commonly known as the Step Pyramid—is distinct for its shape. It is not a symmetrical building, nor are its faces triangular. From its base, the structure rises toward the heavens like a rectangular layered wedding cake.

At the time of our visit, the pyramid’s interior was closed to tourists.

• The Pyramid of Teti

Though Dan and I knew nothing of Teti before our visit, the unassuming pyramid ended up being a highlight of our Cairo itinerary. 

From its exterior, the Pyramid of Teti appears to be a modest pile of rocks in severe disrepair. It looks to be in such poor shape, in fact, that Dan and I almost chose not to enter. 

But inside, the Pyramid of Teti tells an entirely different story. The interior of the Teti Pyramid is visually striking. Unlike other pyramids that contain interior chambers devoid of embellishments, the Teti relic remains adorned with intricate hieroglyphs that are impeccably preserved.  

The Pyramids of Dahshur

The Pyramids of Dahshur are not the oldest or largest pyramids in Egypt, but they are certainly worth including in a three day itinerary to Cairo and Giza.

The Dahshur Pyramids, dating back to Pharaoh Sneferu’s reign in 2613BC, reveal the evolution and perfection of the Egyptian pyramid form. The two main places to see within the Dahshur Archeological Zone are the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid.

• The Bent Pyramid

The Bent Pyramid clearly indicates a transition from the traditional “step” pyramid design. It is also credited with being the first smooth-sided pyramid in Ancient Egypt.

In attempting to create a true smooth-sided pyramid, Sneferu’s architects constructed the pyramid’s walls at a 54 degree, inward-leaning angle. When the structure began showing signs of instability, however, the builders changed its slope to 43 degrees.

To this day, the Bent Pyramid rises out of the sand with a deformed structure that is markedly distinct.

The interior of the Bent Pyramid is closed to visitors.

• The Red Pyramid

The world’s oldest true pyramid, the Red Pyramid, derives its name from the red tones of its weathered limestone. It appears that, in constructing the Red Pyramid, Snefaru’s architects learned from their mistakes and succeeded in building the world’s first symmetrical structure.

Visitors can enter the Red Pyramid for a fraction of the cost of entering the Great Pyramid of Giza.

The entrance reveals a 125-step claustrophobia-inducing passageway that leads to two antechambers with high vaulted ceilings. For travelers who don’t want to pay the exorbitant fee of entering the Great Pyramid of Giza, the Red Pyramid is a fantastic alternative.

The Relics of Ancient Memphis

While not a pyramid, the ancient city of Memphis is commonly included in tours of the smaller and lesser-known pyramids outside of Giza.

Located at the entrance to the Nile River Valley near the Giza Plateau, Memphis was one of the oldest and most important cities in Ancient Egypt. It served as the capital of Egypt during the Old Kingdom, while the Great Pyramids were being built.

Today, not much remains of the old city. A museum housing a sphinx, a handful of carved stones, and a stunning Colossus of Ramses II can be visited upon paying the 60 pound entrance fee. 

Day 2: The Pyramids of Giza and National Museum

Though you’ve probably seen the images a thousand times before, nothing can compare to a face-to-face encounter with the impeccable geometry and grandeur of the Egyptian Pyramids.

Simply put, the Pyramids of Giza are extraordinary. They are a hyperbole of magnificence and craftsmanship. Alongside the great ruins of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the Moai on Easter Island, and the Nabetean Ruins of Petra in Jordan, the destination remains one of the most mysterious and iconic on famous landmarks on Earth.

The Great Giza Pyrmaids

Dating back nearly 6,000 years, the iconic Pyramids of Giza have captured the imaginations of travelers and historians for millennia. They are the most well-known in a chain of 118 temples that lie between Cairo and Sudan. 

But their widespread appeal comes at a price. They are full of crowds, and full of hassle. 

As Dan and I admired the last surviving wonder of the ancient world, we were accosted by touts at every step of the way. We declined seemingly thousands of requests to ride camels, and deflected a number of scams by people claiming to be security guards.

And still, visiting the Pyramids of Giza is an Egyptian experience second to none.

• The Three Great Pyramids

The Giza Necropolis consists of three main pyramids—Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure—and a number of smaller associated pyramids. Dan and I spent most of the morning wandering around the grounds of the archeological site. Our decision to stay the night in Giza meant that we were able to beat the crowds and arrive at the entrance gates as soon as they opened, at 8:00am. 

Though we had already entered two pyramids the previous day, we chose to purchase tickets to the interior of the Great Khufu Pyramid.

The Great Pyramid costs roughly $20 to enter. And though its interior is more crowded, more more expensive, and less aesthetically interesting than the that of the pyramids in Dahshur and Saqqara, I’m glad I decided to fork over the money and channel my inner Indiana Jones.

• The Great Sphinx and Valley Temple

If the Pyramids of Giza are the universal symbol of Egypt, then the Sphinx is runner-up. Carved out of a single hunk of rock, the mythical lion-man statue stands guard over the Great Pyramid Complex. The Sphinx is the oldest known monumental sculpture in Egypt, dating back to circa 2500BC.

Many travelers have expressed surprise at the Sphinx’s small size relative to the Pyramids (it is often photographed in the foreground, where perspective is skewed).

Strangely, upon seeing the Great Sphinx, my reaction was the opposite.

• Best Views of the Pyramids

For all-encompassing views of the three Pyramids, most tour buses stop along the road that runs behind the archeological site. Beyond the road, a pyramid alignment viewpoint boasts superior panoramas of the structures and their surroundings.

Camel tours often lead visitors to the alignment viewpoint, but walking only takes about fifteen minutes from the Menkaure Pyramid.

Whether you travel by horse, by camel, or on foot, I recommend you include the viewpoint in your itinerary. The vistas are simply breathtaking.

The National Museum

After an unforgettable morning in Giza, Dan and I took an Uber back to Cairo and spent an afternoon at the Egyptian National Museum near Tahrir Square. The museum is among the best in the world—rivaling the likes of the Louvre, the British National Museum and the Vatican Museums.

We spent two hours wandering the museum’s disorganized jumble of archeological treasures and admiring the King Tut Exhibit. Had the museum not been scheduled to close at 5pm, we could have easily stayed longer.

Day 3: The Best of Cairo

At first glance, Cairo is dirty, congested and polluted. The city lies under a thick cloud of smog, its charms slowly revealed to travelers as they dodge honking cars and peel back the layers of grime and pollution.

While I dedicated three days of my Egypt trip to Cairo, I only spent a day and a half in the city itself. But Cairo undoubtedly deserves more time. The city is replete with architectural gems, archeological wonders and culinary delights (we particularly loved eating at Fasahet Soumaya and the Naguib Mahfouz Cafe).

Among the plethora of things to see and do in Cairo, highlights include visits to the Coptic Quarter, the Citadel, and the Islamic Quarter.

The Coptic Quarter

Even in a city as chaotic as Cairo, there exist oases of tranquility and calm. Coptic Cairo is a fascinating counterpoint to the rest of the city. Distinguished for being the oldest neighborhood in Cairo and the heart of Egypt’s Coptic Christian community, the area is a car-free jumble of ancient churches and monasteries.

Over two thousand years ago, Coptic Cairo sat along the Nile. It was a strategic point around which the city began to flourish and grow.

Over millennia, the course of the river has changed. And today, while the Nile has shifted several hundred meters to the west, this historic district houses several of Cairo’s most significant attractions.

• The Church of St George

The Church of St George was the first stop on our self-guided walking tour of Coptic Cairo. The church stands directly in front of the Mar Gigris Metro Station, adjacent to the St George Monastery. The massive building is the principal Greek Orthodox church of Egypt. Inside, sunbeams filter through stained glass windows and illuminate a spacious incense-filled room.

The Church of St. George was built in the 10th century, but a fire destroyed its original structure. The present church dates to 1904.

• The Hanging Church

From the Complex of St George, a descending staircase leads to a labyrinth of church-lined streets below. The most famous of these churches is the Hanging Church—an architectural masterpiece and the seat of the Coptic Orthodox Pope of Alexandria.

The stunning church stands above the gatehouse of an ancient Roman Fortress. Its nave rests above a passageway, as if suspended.

The Hanging Church contains a courtyard adorned with modern biblical designs. Inside, its 110 icons date back to the eighth century.

I particularly loved the Hanging Church’s mosque-like floral motifs and intricate decorations.

• The Ben Ezra Synagogue

According to local folklore, the Ben Ezra Synagogue sits at the site in which a pharaoh’s daughter found baby Moses in a basket. Little is known about the original building, other than the fact that it used to be a church. Motifs reminiscent to those of the nearby mosques and churches adorn the synagogue’s interior.

Unfortunately, photography of the Ben Ezra Synagogue is not permitted.

The Cairo Citadel 

Towering over the city’s eastern edge, the Cairo Citadel is one of the top places to visit in Cairo. The citadel—founded by Saladin in 1176 as a fortification against the Crusaders—was home to Egypt’s rulers for 700 years. What remains today is a collection of holy mosques, several palaces (most of which were under remodel when we visited) and terraces with superb city views.

Even through the smog, we could see the Giza Pyramids piercing the sky in the far distance.

• THE MOHAMMED ALI MOSQUE

Employing classic Ottoman architecture, the alabaster-white mosque within the Citadel is among the most significant religious monuments in Cairo. The mosque’s interior boasts twinkling chandeliers and an intricately adorned minbar. Mohammed Ali’s tomb lies within the mosque.

The Islamic Cairo

Islamic Cairo is a bit of a misnomer for the colorful and character-filled district that lies near the Al Azhar Mosque. After all, nearly all of Cairo’s neighborhoods are predominantly Muslim. Still, Islamic Cairo is distinct. The neighborhood boasts some of the most important buildings and institutions in Islam, as well as some of the city’s best restaurants and shopping streets.

• The Khan al Khalil Market

At the heart of Islamic Cairo lies the colorful Khan al Khalil Market. Here, the frenzy of activity comes less from honking car horns and more from the street vendors attempting to lure passersby into their shops.

The narrow car-free lanes of Khan Al Khalili comprise one of the largest and most renowned souks in the Arab world. This agglomeration of shops stocks everything from soap powder, to spices, to tacky alabaster pyramids and figurines of pharaohs.

Unfortunately, we planned our visit to Islamic Cairo on a Sunday—the day that most shops in the market are closed. As a result, the sprawling bazaar was uncharacteristically quiet and laid back.

Still, enough stores and shops were open for us to get a feel for the area.

Where to Stay near the Pyramids

Dan and I spent a night in Giza in order to fully appreciate the beauty of the pyramids at night and in the early morning. If time permits, I wholeheartedly recommend you do the same. A host of hotels in Giza compete for nearly-unobstructed views of the three triangular structures that loom above town.

We stayed at the Horus Guesthouse and enjoyed a favorably-priced pyramid-view room with a central location near the archeological site’s East Entrance. For travelers seeking a step up in luxury, the Mariott Mena and Meridian Pyramids Hotel offer pools, gardens, and comfortable amenities with a view.

****

Despite its renown and widespread appeal, Cairo is not an easy city. During my visit to Cairo, the unfettered frenzy, the horrific traffic, and the thick black smog, nearly drove me to my wits end.

But while Cairo doesn’t always seduce visitors at first sight, it is the type of place that slowly sucks you in—revealing, little by little, a city that is as beautiful as it is dirty and as captivating as it is confusing.

Cairo may impair your hearing, blacken your lungs, and leave you craving a bit of quiet and calm, but these hassles only seem like minor obstacles overall.

For there are few things more exhilarating than standing in front of the last remaining Ancient Wonder and visiting a city that Arabs call Umm al Dunya—the Mother of the World.

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The post Cairo and the Pyramids: A Three Day Itinerary appeared first on Erika's Travels .