The Klamath Basin covers a large swath of northern California and southern Oregon. A relatively undiscovered area, it is among the best birding destinations in the United States. Or so I’m told. 

I’m not a birder. Nor do I pretend to be. In fact, during our ‘birding’ trip to the Klamath Basin, Dan and I mostly referred to species with vague descriptive names. We pointed out ‘spindly white birds’ and ‘scoop-beaked birds’ and ‘yellow-headed birds.’

In other words, we had no idea what we were talking about.

But still, as we looked through our binoculars and botched the bird species, we couldn’t help but be entranced by the array of wildlife in the Klamath Basin. 

KLAMATH BASIN NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

The Klamath Basin is a remarkable wildlife-viewing destination. During certain times of year, millions of birds pass through the area as they migrate along the Pacific Flyway.

In order to preserve the unique habitat, President Roosevelt established the first National Wildlife Refuge at Lower Klamath Lake in 1908. The refuge encompasses 81,000 acres of marsh and open water along the Oregon/California border. 

Following the establishment of its first wildlife refuge, the Klamath Basin began receiving increased attention for its remarkable avian habitats. 

Now, the area is home to six wildlife refuges that span a large swath of northern California and southern Oregon:  Klamath Marsh, Upper Klamath, Bear Valley, Clear Lake, Lower Klamath, and Tule Lake. 

TULE LAKE NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE 

Dan and I began our Klamath Basin tour with a visit to the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge—established in 1928 by President Calvin Coolidge—covers 39,116 acres in the Tule Lake basin. 

Tule Lake is part of the Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge Complex, and is a crucial part of the Pacific Flyway corridor for migratory birds. It is home to pelicans, grebes, swallows, and a wide variety of geese. 

To best experience the area’s bird life, Dan and I embarked on a short driving tour through the refuge. The Tule Lake Auto Route is a self-guided drive that begins near the refuge’s visitor center, on Hill Road. A 9.6 mile unpaved scenic road, it cuts past marshes and lakes as it showcases some of the area’s best avian habitats.

LOWER KLAMATH NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE 

The Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge lies on the border between California and Oregon. The refuge includes shallow freshwater marshes, open water, grassy uplands, and croplands that are intensively managed to provide foraging and breeding habitat for waterfowl and other animals.

A 10.2 mile driving route—accessible from Highway 126—leads to some of the area’s best bird-viewing areas. Along the way, wildlife observation decks overlook a combination of permanent and seasonal marshes.

During our visit to the Lower Klamath Wildlife Refuge, we found fields of golden grasses that had shriveled under the sun. A few small birds chirped around us, but the numbers didn’t even come close to those at Tule Lake.

Due to the absence of water, we chose to press onward and skip the auto tour of Lower Klamath Lake. 

On my next trip to the area, I plan to visit the refuge in winter—when water levels are higher and flocks of eagles descend into the Klamath Basin. 

UPPER KLAMATH NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

The Upper Klamath Wildlife Refuge lies along the northwestern edge of Klamath Lake in Oregon. It boasts 15,000 acres of freshwater marsh and open water. 

Instead of a driving route, a 9.5 mile canoe trail meanders through the area. Dan and I brought our paddle boards in order to best explore the refuge. 

The Upper Klamath Wildlife Refuge provides an opportunity to paddle through marshlands that are ripe with migrating birds. It is a popular nesting and brood rearing area for grebes, terns, herons, bald eagles, and osprey. 

Aside from spotting a few bald eagles and a handful of Red Winged Blackbirds, however, our journey did not result in many bird sightings. 

Still, it was a lovely place to spend the afternoon. 

We meandered gently through the reed channels and soaked in views of Mount McLaughlin in the background. The marked canoe trail quickly became one of my favorite paddle boarding destinations in Oregon—comparable to some of the best stops along the Cascade Lakes Highway. 

OTHER WILDLIFE REFUGES IN THE KLAMATH BASIN

Our trip to the Klamath Basin brought us to three of the area’s six wildlife refuges. The remaining three—Klamath Marsh, Clear Lake, and the Bear Valley—are likewise critical habitats for migrating birds. 

Klamath Marsh Refuge: The Klamath Marsh consists of 40,000 acres of meadows and wetlands in Oregon. A large natural marsh, it provides important nesting and feeding habitats for waterfowl. 

Clear Lake Refuge: The Clear Lake Refuge in northeastern California contains open water surrounded by over 26,000 acres of upland bunchgrass, low sagebrush, and juniper. Rocky islands in the lake host nesting birds, while the uplands provide habitat for pronghorn antelope, mule deer, and sage grouse. 

Except for limited waterfowl and antelope hunting, the refuge is closed to all public access.

Bear Valley National Wildlife Refuge: The Bear Valley Refuge is a small patch of land in southwestern Oregon’s Klamath County. It was established in 1978 as an important nesting spot for bald eagles. 

To reduce disturbance to the birds, Bear Valley Refuge is mostly closed to the public.

LAVA BEDS NATIONAL MONUMENT

The Lava Beds National Monument on the California/Oregon border is an important stop along the Klamath Birding Trail. The monument lies along the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Route—an all-American road that link’s Oregon’s Crater Lake National Park with California’s Lassen Peak. 

Over the last half-million years, volcanic eruptions on Medicine Lake’s shield volcano have created a rugged landscape dotted with diverse volcanic features. American rock art sites and historic battlefields litter the area.

California’s Lava Beds National Monument is an exciting place to explore. Geologically, the area reminded us of the Newberry Crater National Monument in Central Oregon. 

Its most popular attractions are underground lava tubes that provide ample opportunity for adventuring. 

WHERE TO STAY IN THE KLAMATH BASIN

Klamath Falls is the undeniable hub of the Klamath Basin. A town of over 20,000 residents, it contains an assortment of hotels that range from budget to boutique. 

Dan and I didn’t personally stay the night near Klamath Falls, since we visited as a day trip from Eugene. When we researched the area, however, we found a handful of good places to stay. Highly-rated options included the Running Y Ranch Resort and the Worldmark Running Y. 

For travelers coming from Crater Lake, a few additional options can be found in Chiloquin. 

WATER RIGHTS IN THE KLAMATH BASIN

The Klamath Basin is a largely agricultural region. More than 1,200 family farms rely on water from the area’s federally-operated system of dams, canals, and reservoirs.

Yet farmers are far from the only ones who rely on the area’s diminishing water supply.

Members of the Klamath Tribes need water to protect two species of endangered and culturally-important sucker fish. With record low inflows, water can’t be released without risking extinction for the struggling fish.

Access to water is a continual point of contention between the Klamath Basin’s farmers, conservationists, and Native tribes. The years-long drought in the region has exacerbated tensions surrounding water rights that have long simmered under the surface. 

The Klamath Water Crisis presents no easy answers. Until drought-like conditions subside, resolution will be difficult to find. 

****

The Klamath Basin is a year-round destination for bird-lovers. And each season brings new opportunities for discovery.

In spring and fall, millions of waterfowl populate the basin as they make their way along the Pacific Flyway. In winter, the basin boasts the largest population of eagles in the continental United States. 

With ever-changing wildlife-viewing opportunities, Dan and I know that we’ll return.

And next time, we’ll hopefully be more equipped to decipher what we’re seeing through our binoculars. 

_________________________________________________

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Oregon’s Highway 101 is among the most unforgettable road trip destinations in North America. As it hugs the Pacific coastline, the route showcases soaring cliffs, windswept beaches, and charming seaside towns.

But between Tillamook and Lincoln City, the famous coastal road winds inland, away from the water’s edge. In doing so, it bypasses some of the Oregon Coast’s most awe-inspiring scenery.

The Three Capes Scenic Loop seeks to include the northern coast’s compelling off-highway attractions. A popular side tour from the US 101, it leads visitors to spectacular panoramic viewpoints, a historic lighthouse, dramatic beaches, and rainforest-covered capes.

THREE CAPES SCENIC DRIVE ON THE OREGON COAST

The Three Capes Scenic Drive stretches from Tillamook to Pacific City. As its name suggests, the loop features a popular threesome of capes that boast breathtaking views.

The three capes—Meares, Lookout and Kiwanda—lie along a winding 40-mile alternative to the US 101.

THE TILLAMOOK AGRICULTURAL AREA

Tillamook marks the starting point of the Three Capes Scenic Road. Located inland and a stone’s throw from the beach, the town is the heart of Oregon’s coastal dairylands. Pastoral Tillamook County’s dairies range from locally-touted to world-renowned.

During our tour of the Three Capes Scenic Loop, Dan and I stopped by both the Tillamook and Blue Heron creameries.

• THE TILLAMOOK CHEESE FACTORY

The Tillamook Cheese Factory produces some of the most beloved cheddar cheese in the world. And its creamery, a popular tourist destination, has drawn fans since the mid-1900s.

In 2018, the creamery got a massive facelift that transformed it into a modern and airy museum-like attraction. The main level of the factory contains a gift shop, restaurant, and ice cream bar. Upstairs, placards and windows provide a (literal) glimpse into the cheese-making process.

Be prepared for summer weekend crowds at the ice cream stand. When we visited, the line for ice cream was so long that it made me completely lose my desire for the frozen treat.

Those who do not wish to battle the crowds can find a limited selection of Tillamook ice cream at the nearby Blue Heron Creamery.

• BLUE HERON CREAMERY

Blue Heron Creamery lies adjacent to the larger and more renowned Tillamook Factory. Its cheeses are fantastic and the creamery’s surroundings are well worth a small pit-stop. Its grounds contain a picturesque barn, vintage farm equipment, and a petting zoo.

A selection of wines, gourmet gift baskets and specialty cheeses can be found in the gift shop.

CAPE MEARES STATE SCENIC VIEWPOINT

Located about ten miles west of Tillamook at the north end of the Three Capes Scenic Loop, Cape Meares is the perfect place to explore the Oregon Coast’s spruce forests and dramatic vistas. From April through July, the steep cliffs and offshore rocks are nesting sites for thousands of seabirds—including common murres and Brandt’s cormorants.

The cape’s two top attractions include the Octopus Tree and a miniature lighthouse.

• CAPE MEARES LIGHTHOUSE

Cape Meares Lighthouse—the shortest beacon along the Oregon coast—stands a mere 38 ft high, atop a 200-ft bluff.

The lighthouse may be small, but it features an impressive kerosene-powered lens. First lit in 1890, its Fresnel lens was one of the most powerful and largest of its day. Mariners could spot the distinctive red-and-white flashes from more than 20 miles away.

A paved 0.2-mile path leads from the main parking area to the lighthouse.

• THE OCTOPUS TREE

From the parking area, a short 0.1 mile trail leads to the Octopus Tree—the Oregon Coast’s famous candelabra-shaped Sitka Spruce. The gargantuan tree is believed to be over 250 years old. Six branches grow upwards from the 50-foot wide trunk.

Some attribute the Sitka spruce’s shape to natural conditions such as extreme weather. Others, however, believe Native Americans trained the malleable branches to spread horizontally into a cage-like assortment of thick vertical trunks. Such ceremonial trees are common in the Pacific Northwest. Known as culturally modified trees, they are thought to have once held canoes and been central to ritualistic practices.

CAPE LOOKOUT

Cape Lookout State Park is a panoramic vista that sits high above the pounding Pacific surf. At the state park, there are over eight miles of hiking trails through lush old-growth forest. The park’s headlands jut two miles out into the ocean.  A trail along the southern edge of the cape leads to viewpoints that extend in all directions.

Unfortunately, during our visit to the Three Capes, storm damage precluded us from having access to the lookouts and trails.

Instead, we headed straight toward the state park’s beach and relished a stroll on the idyllic stretch of sand. The state park’s day use area offers nice picnic spots and terrific views.

Access requires an Oregon State Parks pass.

CAPE KIWANDA

Cape Kiwanda, the southernmost of the Three Capes, is among the scenic highlights of the northern Oregon coast. During summer months, it is popular with surfers, kayakers, kite flyers and beer-lovers who come for the conveniently-located Pelican Brewery.

The parking lot near Pelican Brewery charges $10/day for access to the area. While we were initially irked that we couldn’t use our Oregon State Parks Pass or our America the Beautiful Pass, our frustrations immediately subsided upon seeing the area.

Cape Kiwanda is simply one of the most spellbinding places in Oregon. It rivals Samuel H Boardman State Park, the central coast near Cape Perpetua, and Ecola State Park.

To skip it would be a shame.

Cape Kiwanda’s main attraction is a gigantic dune that looms over the northern edge of Pacific City. Visitors can scale the dune for views of the coastline’s windswept beaches and rock formations.

From the top of the sand dune, spectacular views unfold in all directions. Cape Kiwanda’s Haystack Rock—not to be confused with the similarly-named sea stack at Cannon Beach—is the world’s fourth largest ocean monolith, rising 327 ft.

We climbed to the top of the sand dune and then made our way to the overlooks on the cape’s western edge. Following the fence’s boundaries, we photographed the numerous sea arches and rock monoliths that speckle the area.

THE NESKOWIN GHOST FOREST

Just south of the Three Capes Scenic Road, about 100 ancient decaying stumps stand sentinel on the windswept sand. Dubbed the Neskowin Ghost Forest, these crustacean-covered tree trunks are an eerie reminder of the Sitka spruce trees that towered over the area for two millennia.

For centuries, these old stumps were hidden under the beach. Then, in the winter of 1997, severe storms pummeled the coast. In doing so, they eroded the sands and exposed the uncanny forest that was buried beneath.

My family and I visited the Neskowin Ghost Forest as part of a day trip to the northern coast.

Though the forest isn’t part of the established Three Capes Scenic Loop, it would be a shame to miss if you are in the area during low tide.

WHERE TO STAY ON THE THREE CAPES LOOP

The Oregon Coast caters to a mix of accommodation types that range from rustic seaside motels to large resorts. The bulk of accommodations near the Three Capes Scenic Road can be found in Pacific City. Those willing to travel a little bit farther can find additional lodging in Lincoln City (23 miles away).

For travelers looking to camp, Cape Lookout State Park offers a mix of RV, tent and yurt camping. For those looking to relax in comfort, the Inn at Cape Kiwanda and Surf & Sand Inn receive stellar reviews.

****

Oregon’s Highway 101 is, without a doubt, among the most scenic driving routes in the United States. It showcases the best of the Pacific Coast’s state parks, wildlife refuges, and scenic vistas.

Yet, occasionally, the road travels inland, away from Oregon’s magnificent waterfront attractions.

In these instances, detouring from the US 101 reaps the greatest rewards.

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The Columbia River Gorge divides Oregon and Washington in spectacular fashion. A national scenic area and magnet for recreation enthusiasts, it encapsulates much of what makes the Pacific Northwest so special. The gorge is a microcosm of many of the region’s most alluring features—showcasing verdant wonderlands, arid plateaus, and one of the mightiest waterways in the United States. 

The outdoor wonderland attracts hikers, kiteboarders and windsurfers from around the world. Its hiking trails feature fern-lined canyons, gushing waterfalls, wildflower-strewn fields, and grand vistas of snow-capped peaks. 

With its plethora of vistas and diverse topography, the national scenic area certainly puts the ‘gorge‘ in gorgeous (sorry, I had to). 

THE COLUMBIA GORGE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

The mighty Columbia River begins in the mountains of British Columbia and empties out into the ocean near Astoria. Along the way, it grows larger and larger as it collects tributaries. By the time the Columbia reaches the shores of the Oregon Coast, it appears as grand as the ocean itself. I’m always struck by the river’s sheer magnitude. 

From 1980 to 1986, the Columbia Gorge became the second National Scenic Area in the United States. The scenic area consists of 293,000 acres that spread out across six counties in Oregon and Washington. 

The Columbia Gorge is steeped in history.  It has acted as a transportation corridor for thousands of years—first for Native American populations and later for Lewis and Clark as they journeyed west.

Today, it still remains one of the most efficient corridors for travel across the Cascade Mountains. 

THE COLUMBIA GORGE IN OREGON

Though the Columbia River Gorge boasts numerous attractions in both Oregon and Washington, its southern banks contain all but a few of the area’s most noteworthy destinations. The stretch between Troutdale and The Dalles boast’s the gorge’s best waterfalls, its most renowned scenic viewpoints, and its most charming population centers. 

Interstate 84 travels along the southern banks of the Columbia River, connecting Portland with Salt Lake City. It parallels the historic Columbia River Highway and acts as the most convenient transportation route along the gorge. 

THE HISTORIC COLUMBIA RIVER HIGHWAY 

The Historic Columbia River Highway is a 75-mile-long scenic road that connects Troutdale with The Dalles. Built between 1913 and 1922, it was the first planned scenic roadway in the United States. Its design intended to take advantage of the many waterfalls and vistas in the area.

For its scenery and engineering feat, the Historic Columbia Highway has been recognized in numerous ways. It is included in the National Register of Historic Places, designated as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, and considered a “destination unto itself” as an All-American Road. 

Prior to the construction of Interstate 84, the Old Columbia River Highway was the main transportation link between Portland and the desert. 

The Highway was left partially intact after the construction of I-84. Some of its sections, however, remain cut into pieces or partially destroyed. Efforts are currently underway to create vehicle-free paths for cyclists and pedestrians—transforming its abandoned sections into a recreational trail.

THE VISTA HOUSE

The Vista House sits on a rocky promontory,  693 ft above the Columbia River. It is a popular rest stop along the Crown Point State Scenic Corridor. 

The Columbia Gorge Vista House opened in 1918 as a glamorous rest stop and observatory. The structure features marble floors, stained glass windows, an a stunning view. In the words of The Oregonian, it was “the finishing achievement for the greatest highway in America.”

Each year, millions of visitors bypass the Historic Columbia Highway en-route to Multnomah Falls. They zoom down I-84, zipping right below the famous building and entirely skipping a spectacular stretch of road. 

The first few times Dan and I visited the gorge, we did the same—not knowing that the Vista House and Portland Women’s Forum Scenic Viewpoint afford some of the area’s most rewarding pit-stops. 

COLUMBIA GORGE WATERFALLS

Oregon is known for its epic waterfalls. Thundering cascades can be found throughout the western half of the state. They are the crown jewels of places like Silver Falls State Park and the McKenzie River Highway. 

The Columbia Gorge has an unusually high waterfall density. It contains more cascades per square mile than any other place in the country. 

The Oregon side of the river houses a vast majority  of the gorge’s waterfalls (77 to be exact). Some contain paved pathways and are easily accessible from the highway. Others require a bit of a hike. 

• LATOURELL FALLS

Latourell Falls is the closest major waterfall to the city of Portland. While many skip it and head straight to Multnomah, the 249 ft ribbon of water is a Columbia Gorge must-see. 

The cliff behind Latourell Falls is notable for its lime-green lichen and vertical basalt columns. Aesthetically, the vibrant colors and vertical columns add intricacy to the cascade’s surroundings. 

The beautiful 225-foot single drop waterfall is easily accessible from the Historic Columbia River Highway.

From the parking area, a 2.3 mile loop passes by the waterfall and leads to a second 134 ft cascade. 

• BRIDAL VEIL FALLS

Bridal Veil Falls is the second major cascade along the Historic Columbia Highway. Its parking area leads to two short hikes: one showcasing the beautiful waterfall and the other revealing views of the Columbia River.

• MULTNOMAH FALLS

Photogenic Multnomah is Oregon’s most beautiful waterfall and one of the most recognizable cascades in the United States. Dropping 620 spectacular feet, it is the tallest of the Columbia River Gorge’s many waterfalls. It is also close to Portland and just off Interstate-84, making it one of Oregon’s most oft-photographed natural wonders. 

Each year, it attracts more than 2 million sightseers. 

While there is no denying the beauty of Multnomah Falls, the attraction’s easy access and widespread renown means huge tourist throngs are inevitable. 

As soon as you set eyes on the waterfall’s spectacular silver ribbon, however, you’ll understand why Multnomah is the area’s centerpiece and crown jewel. 

• WAHKEENA FALLS

Wahkeena Falls may not be as tall as Latourell and Multnomah, but the twisting waterfall is nonetheless among the gorge’s most striking. 

At the time of our visit, the Wahkeena Falls parking area remained closed off to visitors. However, we were still able to access the waterfall from the Multnomah Falls Parking Area. In order to visit the cascade, we had two options. The first consisted of walking along the Old Columbia Highway for about one mile round-trip. The other required a five mile trek that also included Fairy Falls. 

Due to lack of time, we only did the out-and-back hike.

But the 5-mile trek is at the top of our future gorge to-do list. 

Despite the fact that Wahkeena Falls lies within close proximity of Oregon’s most notable cascade, Dan and I were able to enjoy the thundering water in complete solitude.

It was a refreshing contrast to the congestion at nearby Multnomah. 

• WAHCLELLA FALLS

Two-tiered Wahclella tumbles over moss-clad rocks into a picturesque plunge pool. The waterfall consists of upper and lower segments that have a combined height of 350 ft. The longer upper section is not completely visible, while the thundering lower segment stands 60 ft.

The Wahclella Falls Trailhead is located directly across the highway from the Bonneville Dam. It is the easternmost ribbon of water in a long string of stunning cascades. 

Due to its picturesque nature, Dan and I even chose Wahclella Falls as the site of our engagement photos! 

ONEONTA GORGE (CURRENTLY CLOSED) 

The Oneonta Gorge is a narrow moss-covered canyon located within the larger Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. It is one of the most beautiful spots in Oregon. 

A narrow waterfall lies at the end of the moss-covered emerald canyon. Reaching Lower Oneonta Falls requires wading in an icy river that cuts through the area’s verdant canyon walls.

It is a short hike that packs in a huge reward. 

Unfortunately, the canyon remains closed off to visitors as a result of the 2017 Eagle Creek Fire. Dan and I count ourselves incredibly lucky to have visited the place merely months before flames turned the area into a hazard zone. 

Currently, the Oneonta Gorge does not have a set reopening date. 

HOOD RIVER

Hood River lures both locals and tourists with its craft breweries, quaint downtown, and beautiful setting. Like a mini version of Bend Oregon, the town centers almost entirely around its outdoor offerings. It is a launchpad for adventures in the Mount Hood National Forest, excursions through the Hood River Fruit Loop, and recreation along the Columbia. 

In the 1960s, the Columbia River’s white-capped waters and constant wind put Hood River on the national windsurfing radar. Today, the town is world-renowned as one of the world’s best destinations for kiteboarders and windsurfers. 

A sandy spit juts out into the water and forms a natural dock that attracts swimmers and water sports enthusiasts in droves. At nearly half a mile long, the sand bar and its shallow waters are the perfect place to cool down on a hot sunny day.  

Though Dan and I have never been kiteboarding, we could have spent all day watching the athletes as they glided about the choppy waters. 

It looked like so much fun that we vowed to take kiteboarding lessons on our next visit to the area. 

ROWENA CREST AND TOM MCCALL PRESERVE

Visiting Rowena Crest is among the top things to do along the Columbia River Gorge. 

Located between Hood River and The Dalles, the roadside viewpoint offers some of the  area’s most epic vistas. Many visit Rowena Crest for its iconic views of the Historic Columbia River Highway’s horseshoe bend. Thanks to Instagram, the U-shaped curve in the road is one of the most well-known Columbia Gorge attractions. 

In addition to providing a unique view of the Historic Columbia Highway, Rowena Crest features sweeping panoramas of the vast river, arid cliffs, and wildflower-splashed hillsides.

The Rowena Crest Viewpoint marks the starting point of a spectacular hike through the Tom McCall Preserve. 

The short 3.4 mile trail meanders up a grassy slope that explodes with vibrant wildflowers in the spring. From its summit, the views of Mount Hood and Mount Adams are breathtaking. 

THE COLUMBIA GORGE IN WASHINGTON

Washington’s side of the Columbia River Gorge receives far less attention than its Oregon counterpart. The area’s hikes and viewpoints, however, are likewise spectacular. 

The Washington portion of the Columbia Gorge National Recreation Area extends from Camas to Maryhill. Scenic Highway 14 traces the riverbank and provides access to many of the area’s best hiking areas, wildflower meadows, and scenic viewpoints.

CAPE HORN

Cape Horn overlooks the Columbia River’s sparkling blue waters and cavernous gorge. It is the first major viewpoint along Washington’s Highway 14. 

A 7.5 mile scenic loop descends from the viewpoint to the river’s edge. It passes by lava rocks and basalt towers.

Nesting peregrine falcons reside in the basalt cliffs below Cape Horn.

As a result, the trail is only accessible to tourists between July 16th and January 31st. 

BEACON ROCK 

One of the Columbia Gorge’s most distinguishable features, beacon rock looms over the river. It can be spotted from a number of the area’s scenic viewpoints. 

The 848-foot basalt landmark was once the core of a volcano. When Ice Age floods swept out large chunks of land, the volcano’s inner core was all that remained. Beacon Rock is among the tallest monoliths in North America.

A steep pathway leads to the top of the rock outcrop and culminates in epic views of the river. The three-quarter mile out-and-back trail dates back to 1918. It contains handrails, bridges, and 51 switchbacks.

Though crowded, the 1.5 mile Beacon Rock Trail is among the most memorable Columbia River Gorge hikes. 

DOG MOUNTAIN

Dog Mountain is a legendary destination within the Columbia River National Scenic Area. This Washington gem offers stunning views of the gorge and its verdant hillsides. On clear days, it showcases Mount Hood and Mount St Helens.  

The challenging 6 mile hike ascends 2,900 ft above the gorge. In late spring and early summer, it boasts some of the best wildflower displays in the Pacific Northwest.

Note that, in addition to the existing $5 day use fee, a new permit system is in effect for weekends between March 31 and July 1.

BONNEVILLE DAM

The Bonneville Dam spans the entire length of the Columbia Gorge and is accessible from both Oregon and Washington. It has two visitor centers and offers free tourist admission.

The dam was built and is managed by the United States Army Corps of Engineers. At the time of its construction in the 1930s, it was the largest water impoundment project of its type in the nation. The dam produces 5 billion kilowatts of electricity each year, which is enough to power 80% of the Pacific Northwest.

The largest fish hatchery in Oregon, called the Bonneville Fish Hatchery, is located next to the dam. 

CATHERINE CREEK

Since Dan and I had already hiked Dog Mountain on a previous visit to the Columbia River Gorge, we chose a different wildflower trail on our most recent foray into the area. 

Catherine Creek is well-known as one of the most beautiful hiking destinations along Washington’s side of the gorge. It features a series of trails that wind through forest and along hillsides. Its trails provide beautiful views of Mount Hood and the river. 

And best of all, the area contains only a fraction of the crowds that can be found on Dog Mountain. 

THE MARYHILL STONEHENGE

Dan and I haven’t actually made it as far as the Maryhill Stonehenge, but the monument is no doubt one of the top attractions along the Washington side of the riverbank. 

The memorial is a replica of Stonehenge in England. It was commissioned in the early 20th century by a wealthy entrepreneur, and dedicated on 4 July 1918 as a memorial to victims of World War I.

COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE ACCOMMODATIONS

While many tourists choose to visit the Columbia River Gorge as a day trip from Portland, the area’s plethora of attractions merit at least two days of exploration.

Luckily, there are plenty of wonderful places to stay on both sides of the river. 

On the Washington side, the Skamania Lodge and Spa is a popular choice. It is situated on 176 scenic acres along the River. RubyJune Inn in White Salmon, too, receives great reviews. 

On the Oregon side, Hood River hosts a bulk of the accommodations. The Columbia Cliffs Villas, the Hood River Hotel and the Carson Ridge Luxury Cabins are highly ranked choices. 

BEST TIME TO VISIT THE COLUMBIA GORGE

With waterfalls, wildflowers, and scenic views, the Columbia River Gorge is a fantastic place to visit year-round. In late spring, wildflowers paint the hillsides, while iconic Pacific Northwest Peaks wear a thick cape of snow. It is the most beautiful time to visit the gorge, provided that the sun is shining. 

But while the colors fade a bit in late summer and fall, the warmer months remain a fantastic time to visit the area. 

In winter, most hiking trails and viewpoints remain accessible, while thinning crowds provide an opportunity to enjoy the area’s attractions in relative solitude. 

*****

As the Columbia River makes its way toward the sea, its surrounding scenery unfolds in spectacular fashion. The behemoth river—once a conduit for travel over the Cascades—has now become a destination of its own. The river draws year-round recreation enthusiasts with its varied scenery and unforgettable hikes. 

From arid plateaus to misty waterfalls and from snow-clad mountains to fern-laden canyons, the Columbia River National Recreation Area is nothing short of gorgeous. 

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In Oregon’s Cascade Mountains, two geologically fascinating ecosystems collide. On the west side of the Cascades, lush Douglas fir and red cedar forests conceal waterfalls and glimmering lakes. On the drier east side, ponderosa pines prevail and cloudless skies abound. 

Oregon’s two halves clash in everything from climate to politics to scenery. The area of their convergence reveals a place that is at once hot and cold, wet and dry, living and dead. Charred forests give birth to new life. Frigid streams contain pockets of boiling water. Lava fields adjoin snow fields, providing visual reminders of the forces of fire and ice that have shaped the land. 

When brought together, these contrasting elements create an outdoor-lover’s paradise of postcard-worthy backdrops and geologic wonder. 

THE MCKENZIE PASS-SANTIAM PASS SCENIC BYWAY

The McKenzie-Santiam Scenic Byway is primarily made up of two roads: the narrow winding Old McKenzie Highway, and Oregon’s Route 126. 

Both roads connect Sisters with the Willamette Valley. Both lead to some of Oregon’s most beautiful and underrated gems. 

While they are often traveled independently of one another, the two roads combine to create an unforgettable route that showcases the diverse geology of Oregon’s central Cascades. 

If approached from the east, the McKenzie Pass-Santiam Pass Loop begins and ends in the western-themed town of Sisters. Alternatively, you can start the loop near McKenzie Bridge.

Along its course, the byway journeys through verdant forest and provides peek-a-boo views of snowcapped volcanoes.

Broken Top Mountain, Mount Washington and The Three Sisters tower above the area, while waterfalls and rivers lie hidden beneath its carpet of evergreen trees.

THE MCKENZIE RIVER HIGHWAY: OR-126

The OR126 contains no shortage of places to see. The highway crosses much of the state and connects the central Oregon coast with Sisters.

As it leaves the oceanside city of Florence, the ribbon of pavement traverses a shallow coastal mountain range and enters the fertile Willamette Valley. After passing the Eugene-Springfield metro area, it follows the McKenzie River through the Willamette National Forest—where it reveals plunging waterfalls, turquoise pools, and secluded hot springs.

Parts of Highway 126 suffered severe damage during the Holiday Farm Fire of 2020. East of Eugene, between Vida and McKenzie Bridge, the road passes through wildfire-scorched landscapes that reveal heartbreaking destruction. 

If you’re intending to approach the McKenzie-Santiam Loop from the west, check updated information before planning a trip to the area. Debris and landslides still present significant hazards. And the scars from the devastating wildfire season are visible reminders of the area’s long path toward recovery. 

BELKNAP AND COUGAR HOT SPRINGS 

Central Oregon’s abundant volcanic activity has resulted in a smattering of thermal springs. The McKenzie Highway is home to two of the most beloved hot springs in Oregon: Belknap and Cougar (also known as Terwilliger). 

Belknap is a developed mini-resort with hotel rooms and a concrete pool. For non-guests, soaking costs $8 per hour and is permitted between 9am and 6pm on weekdays. 

Nearby Cougar consists of clothing-optional pools that cascade down the river like a necklace chain. A natural spring, it contains six soaking areas that are spaced apart by rock walls and surrounded by verdant forest. They range in temperature from 85 to 112 degrees. 

Due to wildfire damage in 2020, the Cougar Hot Springs are temporarily off-limits. 

THE TAMOLITCH POOL

The Tamolitch Pool lies along the ambling McKenzie River Trail. Known alternatively as the ‘Blue Pool’ for its striking color, it is one of the most beautiful bodies of water in Oregon.

Some 16,000 years ago, lava flow from Belknap Crater buried a 3 mile stretch of the McKenzie River. Thus, while the Blue Pool seems to spring out of nowhere, it is actually the continuation of a river that momentarily sinks below ground. When the river resurfaces, it seeps through porous lava, creating a pristine turquoise swimming hole. The porous rock acts as a natural filter, removing contaminants and resulting in a shade of blue that is almost difficult to believe.

The Tamolich Pool’s jewel-like water alternates between shades of turquoise, sapphire and emerald. When light touches its surface, the blue pool is almost iridescent. 

The 3.7 mile out-and-back trail to the Blue Pool is a popular day trip from both Eugene and Bend. Its popularity has risen dramatically in recent years. 

When I was growing up, I’d never even heard of the Blue Pool. 

Now, its photos are plastered all over social media and its scintillating waters draw tourists from all corners of the state and beyond. 

SAHALIE AND KOOSAH FALLS LOOP

The Sahalie and Koosah Falls Loop is one of the most popular hikes along Oregon’s McKenzie River. Reminiscent in some ways to the lauded Trail of Ten Falls near Salem, it is a multi-cascade trek that boasts unforgettable waterfalls and a lush forested setting.

The two waterfalls lie along a 26 mile river trail that also includes the Tamolitch Pool. Portions of the river trail are popular among hikers and mountain bikers. 

Most visitors, however, choose to explore the two cascades as part of a 2.6 mile loop from the Sahalie Falls parking lot. 

• SAHALIE FALLS

Sahalie Falls is a raging cataract that pounds the river into rainbow prisms. Its impressive rush of white water pours 100 ft over a naturally-formed lava dam.

All around, mossy vegetation carpets the area in shades of emerald.  

At times of high water, a secondary stream drops into the lava bowl to the right of the main cascade—adding character to an already picturesque scene.

• KOOSAH FALLS

Though slightly smaller and less popular than its neighbor, Koosah Falls is no less impressive. The cascade pummels over lava rock and empties forcefully into the sapphire waters of the McKenzie River. 

While 64 ft Koosah Falls contains its own parking area and is easily accessible from the highway, most choose to visit the attraction as part of the Sahalie Falls Loop. 

HOODOO SKI AREA

Hoodoo is a local ski resort that caters to families from the Willamette Valley and Central Oregon. It is home to five lifts that provide access to 800 acres of skiable terrain.

During winter months, it becomes one of the top outdoor playgrounds in the Oregon Cascades. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON VIEWPOINT

After crossing over Santiam Pass, the landscape along Oregon’s Highway 126 transforms. The Ponderosa-clad Deschutes National Forest replaces the moss-covered fir trees of Oregon’s western half. On either side of the road, snow-capped mountains peek out over the fire-charred forest. 

Between Hoodoo and Sisters, roadside pullouts offer views of steep-sided Mount Washington and the iconic Three Sisters.

Mount Washington rises above lava-strewn plains. Though it is one of the most impressive attractions in Oregon’s Cascades, the craggy peak is often overlooked.

The McKenzie-Santiam Highway provides some of the state’s best views of the sheer mountain and its surroundings. 

OLD MCKENZIE PASS SCENIC BYWAY: OR-242

The Old McKenzie Highway is one of Oregon’s most scenic drives. The seasonal highway (accessible from July through September) cuts between two of Central Oregon’s top wilderness areas and connects the towns of Sisters and McKenzie Bridge.

Along the way, it provides access to countless historic, recreational, and scenic attractions—including lunar landscapes, waterfalls, and old growth forests.

The Old McKenzie Highway follows the path of an 1860s wagon route. It highlights jaw-dropping vistas of Mount Washington and a 65-square-mile lava flow.

Beyond the sprawling lava flow, it snakes through emerald forest and passes by stunning waterfalls. 

DEE WRIGHT OBSERVATORY

The Dee Wright Observatory is located in the Oregon Cascades, atop a barren blanket of lava in the Willamette National Forest. It overlooks a 65-square-mile sea of black lava rock. 

The Dee Wright Observatory dates back to the 1930s, when the Civilian Conservation Corps constructed the structure to showcase the area’s spectacular topography.  The rocky shelter features a number of viewing windows, some of which have been specifically aligned to capture views of prominent peaks.

As with the nearby Newberry Crater National Monument, the volcanic lunar landscape near the Dee Wright Observatory caught the attention of NASA astronauts planning a mission to the moon. Scientists believed that the moon’s mysterious pockmarked surface was a result of volcanic activity.

So in order to prepare for what they might encounter in space, they performed extensive fieldwork and equipment testing in the area.

It isn’t difficult to see why the Oregon lava lands represented their closest approximation to the moon’s surface. 

PROXY FALLS

The Proxy Falls Trail passes through lava fields that have been reclaimed by forest. It features two lovely waterfalls that spill over mosses and ferns.

Though the Old McKenzie Highway remains closed to vehicle traffic for much of the year, Proxy Falls is accessible year-round. When Dan and I visited in winter, we parked at the snow gate on the road’s western end.

From the gate, we hiked up the highway for two miles, before veering off toward the waterfall. 

I’ve read that the Proxy Falls trail can get crowded in summer.

During our winter visit, however, we found ourselves standing before the 254 ft waterfall in complete solitude.

• UPPER PROXY FALLS

At 129 ft, Upper Proxy Falls is the smaller of two beautiful waterfalls that lie along the Old McKenzie Highway. Its vertical stream trickles over a carpet of dense green moss and ferns.

Though the cascade itself is beautiful, its most particular characteristic is the fact that its water seems to vanish upon reaching the ground.

Instead of flowing onward, the waterfall’s ribbon of water plunges into porous subsoil and sinks below lava rock.

• PROXY FALLS

Proxy Falls pours 226 ft into a gaping canyon in the Willamette National Forest.

The cascade’s wispy tentacles spread out over the rock like a dense spider web. I found it quite reminiscent to Spray Falls in Washington’s Mount Rainier National Park. 

With its graceful form, mossy surroundings, and fairy tale aesthetic, Proxy Falls is one of the most beautiful cascades in the Pacific Northwest.

Having the attraction completely to ourselves made our experience all the more magical. 

WHERE TO STAY ALONG THE MCKENZIE-SANTIAM HIGHWAY 

Sisters is a picturesque western town that acts as the gateway to some of Central Oregon’s best recreation. It boasts wonderful places to stay—including the FivePine Lodge, the Best Western Ponderosa Lodge, and the GrandStay Hotel and Suites. 

Outside of Sisters, accommodation is mostly relegated to camping. There are numerous primitive and established campsites scattered along the loop.

WHEN TO VISIT THE MCKENZIE-SANTIAM HIGHWAY

Driving the full McKenzie Pass-Santiam Pass Loop is only possible between July and September, when warm sunny temperatures dominate the weather forecast. Much like the Cascade Lakes Highway, the OR-242 remains closed to vehicle traffic during Oregon’s snowy season. 

That being said, many of the area’s attractions are still accessible year-round. Highway 126 is fantastic in winter, when the waterfalls plunge in full force and crowds are few and far between. 

If you’re willing to put in a little extra effort, Proxy Falls makes for a fantastic (albeit longer than normal) winter day hike.

And after a day of exploring Oregon’s waterfalls in the cold and rain, the area’s thermal hot springs are all the more rewarding. 

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Oregon’s highest mountains create wildly contrasting landscapes. Along the McKenzie Highway’s scenic loop, the juxtaposition of fire and ice reveals a land that has been carved by the elements and sculpted by forces of nature. Glaciated peaks rise up from stark black lava fields. Charred trees—once ravaged by wildfires—give birth to fledgling vegetation. Ice-cold waterways lie adjacent to steamy thermal pools. 

And amidst its wildly contrasting landscapes, the drive showcases nature’s capacity for beauty, as well as its wanton tendency toward destruction. 

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The central Oregon coast is a land defined by its natural diversity. It is a sprawling patchwork of forests, lakes, dunes, and marine gardens. Along its tumultuous expanse, rocky headlands loom high above the ocean, providing astounding vistas of craggy rocks and offshore islands.

While the northern coast receives most of the tourists and the southern coast is considered to be Oregon’s darling, the central coast is the section I hold closest to my heart. It is my childhood playground and the location of my elopement. I could go on and on and on about my attachment to the area and the many memories I have associated with its striking landscapes.

But you’re probably here because you want to know a little bit about the central Oregon coast’s attractions.

So instead of rambling about my childhood memories, I’ll give you a rundown of my favorite places to see between Lincoln City and Coos Bay.

ATTRACTIONS ALONG THE CENTRAL OREGON COAST

Oregon’s central coast embraces such contrasts that it is difficult to categorize. As it traces the western edge of the United States, its landscapes boast everything from towering dunes to marsh-lined lakes, and from soaring cliffs to wildlife-rich marine gardens.

The area is teeming with places to see and things to do. Each inch of the coastline provides visitors with opportunities for whale-watching, sand boarding, hiking, and photography.

I’ve visited the central Oregon coast more times than I can count. Some trips consisted of a mere few hours at one of the state parks, while others entailed in-depth road trips to the area’s secret nooks and off-the-beaten-path crannies.

DEPOE BAY MARINA

Depoe Bay lies south of Lincoln City, along a particularly impressive stretch of coastline. Rocky Creek Scenic Viewpoint, Whale Cove, and the Ben Jones Bridge are all located within a stone’s throw of the town’s marina.

While it boasts splendid nearby scenery, the town itself is a must-see attraction. Depoe Bay is situated around an inlet that contains the world’s smallest navigable harbor. You may recognize it from the fishing scene in One Flew Over the Coockoo’s Nest.

Depoe Bay’s charter tours have given the town the distinction of being Oregon’s whale-watching capital. During certain times of year, its surrounding waters welcome large populations of whales and dolphins.

Notable tour companies in the area include the Whale Tail Charters and the Whale Research EcoExcursions.

CAPE FOULWEATHER

Two miles south of Depoe Bay, a one-way  detour from Highway 101 showcases superb views over rocky bluffs and tumultuous ocean. The detour—known as Otter Crest Loop—culminates at Cape Foulweather.

From atop the 500 ft headland, views extend 40 miles to Yaquina Head.

The Cape Foulweather lookout contains viewing platforms and a small gift shop. Plaques near the parking lot reveal that Captain Cook named the area in 1778, during a particularly brutal storm.

DEVIL’S PUNCHBOWL

During winter storms, water from the restless ocean slams with a thundering roar into Devil’s Punchbowl. The attraction’s unique shape is a result of relentless wave action. Geologists theorize that the roof over two sea caves collapsed, creating a hollow bowl-shaped formation.

On clear days, the cauldron’s two arches are clearly visible from the viewing area. On stormy days—when the attraction is at its most magical—the surf churns, foams, and swirls as it mixes a violent brew.

The nearby Otter Rock Marine Reserve is accessible from Devil’s Punchbowl. In and around the site, visitors can explore tide pools, spot seals hauled out on the rocks, and stroll along the sandy shores of Beverly Beach State Park.

YAQUINA HEAD

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area is a BLM-managed promontory that sticks out into the Pacific Ocean. The area features rocky coves, anemone-clad tide pools, a cobbled beach, a visitors center, and a 93 ft tall lighthouse.

Perched atop the westernmost point of the peninsula’s basalt headland, the Yaquina Lighthouse has guided ships to safety since 1873. It is among the most renowned lighthouses on the Oregon Coast.

At Yaquina Head, pounding ocean meets land in a series of tide pools that house an array of anemones and starfish. A fantastic place for kids, it offers a glimpse into the area’s diverse marine life.

Just south of the promontory, the sweeping shores of Agate Beach beckon surfers and agate-hunters.

The Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area honors America the Beautiful Passes. Entrance costs $7 per vehicle for three days, or $15 annually.

SEAL ROCK STATE RECREATION SITE

Seal Rock has always been one of my favorite destinations along the central Oregon coast. The scenic area features offshore rock islands akin to those at Ecola and Samuel H Boardman state parks.

Seal Rock’s day use area has plenty of picnic tables, while its wide sandy beach is perfect for strolling. Bird-watchers will enjoy the congregation of birds that use Elephant Rock as a resting place during their seasonal migrations.

Like Yaquina Head, Seal Rock abounds with life. Low tide reveals giant green anemone, purple sea urchin, gooseneck barnacles,  and California mussels.

Close to shore, harbor seals sun themselves on the rock outcroppings (hence, the area’s name).

CAPE PERPETUA

Just south of Yachats, an offshoot road winds inland toward Cape Perpetua.

The cape is one of the Oregon Coast’s crown jewels. It gets its name from the fact that Captain Cook first caught sight of the  promontory on St Perpetua’s Day (March 7, 1778).

Panoramic views from a historic stone lookout structure extend for 75 miles in each direction. On a clear day, the rugged coastline unfolds in spectacular fashion.

Cape Perpetua is one of the most dramatic areas along the Oregon Coast. The rugged lava headland contains secluded beaches, tide pools, blowholes, a lush creek, and old growth Sitka spruce forest.

Access to the area requires a Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass.

DEVIL’S CHURN & THOR’S WELL

Thor’s Well and Devil’s Churn lie in the shadow of Cape Perpetua, along a particularly scenic stretch of highway. The rough-and-tumble area is a perfect place to see the forces of nature at play. Ebony fingers of weathered lava contrast against the deep blues of the ocean. Sprouting horns and chasms filled with churning water reveal a dynamic marriage of ocean and land.

Thor’s Well has become a popular location for photographers seeking epic long-exposure shots. Water pours over the lip of the well, creating a circular waterfall that is constantly in motion. It is mesmerizing and utterly beguiling.

Just beyond Thor’s Well, a path leads to a gash in the lava rock known as Devil’s Churn.

At Devil’s Churn, visitors can watch the incoming waves as they crash into the narrow gully. As water pummels into the chasm, it churns and sloshes and froths—creating a violent bubble bath jacuzzi for the poor washed-up logs that have made their way into the area.

HECETA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE

The Oregon Coast contains few vistas more dramatic than that of Heceta Head. The 200-ft bluff juts out into the sea and is crowned with an iconic lighthouse that has steered ships from danger since 1894.

The postcard-worthy Heceta Head Lighthouse overlooks rocky islands and a sweeping sandy beach. It is one of the most photographed landmarks in all of the Pacific Northwest.

South of Heceta Beach, several roadside pullouts provide unparalleled views of the lighthouse and its nearby offshore islands.

HONEYMAN STATE PARK & THE OREGON DUNES

Jessie M Honeyman State Park, also known simply as ‘Honeyman,’ is one of my favorite places in Oregon. With its rolling dunes and jewel-like lakes, it offers an entirely different perspective of the Oregon Coast’s scenery.

Honeyman lies along the Pacific Coast Highway, at the northern end of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area.

While reaching the ocean from Honeyman Park requires traversing two miles of undulating sand, the area boasts two beautiful freshwater lakes: Cleawox (great for swimming and paddling) and Woahink (a popular boating destination).

South of Honeyman, the Oregon Coast sand dunes extend all the way to Reedsport.

Popular hikes in the recreation area include the John Dellenback Trail and the Tahkenitch Dunes Trail.

DEAN CREEK ELK-VIEWING AREA

The central Oregon coast may be a hotspot for marine and avian life, but the area’s fauna is not limited to creatures of the sky and sea.

In Reedsport, the Dean Creek Viewing Area is home to a herd of about 100 Roosevelt elk. Roadside pullouts facilitate safari-like encounters with the majestic mammals.

A mild winter climate and abundant food allow the Roosevelt elk to remain at the Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area year-round.

Dean Creek’s surrounding wetlands hum with life. Visitors may spot coyote, blue herons, beavers, muskrat, and Canada geese amidst the tall grasses.

WHERE TO STAY ALONG OREGON’S CENTRAL COAST

There is no shortage of fantastic lodging options along Oregon’s central coast. Places to stay range from oceanside cottages to luxury resorts. Noteworthy accommodations include the eco-friendly SCP Depoe Bay, the Overleaf Lodge in Yachats, and the oceanfront Driftwood Shores Resort in Florence.

For a truly unforgettable lodging experience, consider staying at the Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast near Florence. The lighthouse keeper’s residence has been converted into a delightful little B&B that is famous for its porch-side views and seven course breakfasts. At night, guests can grab a flashlight and enjoy exclusive access to one of the most iconic lighthouses in the United States.

CENTRAL OREGON COAST WILDLIFE

Animal-viewing opportunities abound along the central Oregon coast. Dean Creek is a fantastic place to see herds of hoofed mammals, while the ocean brims with marine life year-round.

Along the entirety of the coast, wildlife-rich tide pools house anemones, starfish, barnacles, and urchins. Offshore islands attract a wide variety of seabirds. On the horizon, it is often possible to see whales dotting the waters.

There are two primary whale-watching seasons in Oregon. The first lasts between mid-December and mid-January, when the gray whales make their way down to the calving lagoons in Mexico. The second is between mid-March and early April, when the whales return to the north to feed.

Travelers looking to have guaranteed (or near guaranteed) wildlife sightings, may want to check out the Newport Aquarium and the Sea Lion Caves.

The Sea Lion Caves is a popular Oregon Coast road trip attraction. Deemed the world’s largest sea cave, the oceanside cavern is a natural rookery that attracts hundreds of barking sea lions at a time.

Beware the stench, but behold one of nature’s great spectacles.

WHEN TO VISIT THE CENTRAL OREGON COAST

Though heavy rain often characterizes the area’s weather during winter months, the central Oregon coast is a fantastic place to visit year-round. Winter can be a magical time at the coast. Heavy winds tussle the waves, beaches remain desolate, and cloudy skies add dimension to the area’s rugged environs.

But to truly experience the best of the Oregon Coast, I recommend visiting between June and early October.

In summer and fall, the water is at its warmest, the skies are mostly fog-free, and temperatures are perfect for kite-flying, dune-bashing, sightseeing, and hiking. 

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On June 19th of 2020, Dan and I eloped along the central Oregon coast, under the Heceta Lighthouse’s iconic beacon.

Though we’d spent more than a year brainstorming far-flung ceremony locations, we ultimately decided to tie the knot on a windswept stretch of sand near my hometown.

I can hardly think of a location more perfect.

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Bend Oregon is blessed with an abundance of nearby natural wonders. The town sits on the dry side of the Cascade Mountains, where forests and desert converge. Head west out of town, and you’ll be greeted by shimmering lakes, towering ponderosa forests, and snow-clad peaks. Head east, and the desert unfolds outward, as far as the eye can see. 

It isn’t difficult to understand why tourists flock to the mountains and lakes west of town. The area is a dreamland for hikers, photographers, and outdoor enthusiasts.

But when crowds inundate the area’s hiking trails and flood the waters along the Cascade Lakes Byway, locals drive out into the seemingly barren nothingness of Oregon’s vast high desert.

East of Bend, the ponderosa-clad mountains transform into rocky sage-covered hillsides. One of the best places to experience the area’s desert magic is in the Oregon Badlands—a 29,000 acre wilderness protected by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).

WHAT ARE THE OREGON BADLANDS?

The Oregon Badlands Wilderness is a sprawling area of sandy trails, juniper forests, and lava outcroppings. Though some might consider the scenery to be monotonous and lifeless, the Badlands hold a number of remarkable landforms. The area is home to some of the oldest trees in Oregon, and hosts a diverse and thriving ecosystem. It houses Native American rock art, dry river canyons, and castle-like basalt structures. 

The Badlands are a testament to the area’s fascinating geology and ecology. They feature outstanding examples of ancient western juniper woodlands and basalt rock lava formations. 

The solidified tumuli and basaltic mounds in the Oregon Badlands are about 80,000 years old. When lava flowed from the Newberry Volcano, it poured through a crack in the Arnold Lava Tube and scattered about the surrounding landscape. The rootless vent formed the Badlands Shield Volcano that covers much of the wilderness area. 

Located approximately 16 miles east of Bend’s city limits, this barren geological wonderland offers a crowd-free escape during cooler months. It is the perfect place to enjoy a pleasant stroll, while getting to know Central Oregon’s unique high desert terrain.

FLATIRON ROCK TRAIL

The Oregon Badlands Wilderness contains over 50 crisscrossing miles of trails. To get a taste for the area’s geology, I decided to hike the Flatiron Rock Trail—a wonderful 5-mile out-and-back route that features one of the most prominent rock formations in the Badlands.

The level sandy pathway winds through jagged rock jumbles and old-growth woodlands. Along the way, it showcases native sagebrush and contorted juniper trees. The native flora emits a fragrant aroma that lingers in the crisp desert air. The wonderful smell is one of the most enjoyable aspects of hiking in the Badlands. 

As the trail inches closer to Flatiron Rock, the area’s hardened lava deposits become larger and more interesting. Mini-canyons slice through the rugged terrain, leading to sheltered ravines and photogenic outcroppings.

At Flatiron Rock, the maze of basalt-lined passageways conceals small arches, caves, and rock walls. 

From the top of the basalt formation, 360 degree views highlight snow-dusted peaks to the west, and rolling high desert to the east. 

TRAIL OF ANCIENT JUNIPERS

From Flatiron Rock, hikers have the option of either continuing along the Castle Trail, or returning to the parking area.

Since I was pressed for time, I chose to return to the trailhead. On my way back, however, I took a small detour along the Trail of Ancient Junipers—a short and pleasant route that links up with the Flatiron Rock Trail and adds about one extra mile to the journey. 

The Trail of Ancient Junipers undulates through a landscape of sagebrush, rabbitbrush, and bitterbrush. En-route, it passes by several twisted trees. The ancient junipers are a key feature of the wilderness area. Many of the trees are over 1,000 years old.

The gnarly ancient junipers stand in various shapes and forms. Some appear wizened and tangled, others boast polished reddish bark. Some burst with fragrant pine needles, others feature contorted stumps with only a few scraggly limbs. 

For photographers and lovers of nature, the time-tested trees along the Ancient Juniper Trail are among the area’s most alluring features. 

ADDITIONAL HIKING ROUTES IN THE BADLANDS

More than 50 miles of sandy pathways crisscross the Oregon Badlands Wilderness. While I only had time to hike the Flatiron Rock Trail and Trail of Ancient Junipers, there are countless other ways to traverse the harsh and formidable landscape. 

The Badlands Rock Trail, the Dry River Trail, and the Tumulus Trail are popular alternative options that lie further afield.

For lovers of rugged desert scenery and long distance hikes, the lengthy Oregon Desert Trail is a multi-week trek that offers plenty of solitude for the adventurous and brave.  The trail begins in the Oregon Badlands and traverses the Oregon Outback, Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge, Steens Mountain, and the Alvord Desert. 

BEST TIME TO VISIT THE OREGON BADLANDS

Unlike the majority of Central Oregon’s attractions, the Oregon Badlands are best visited between October and May. 

During spring and fall, the area is one of Bend’s favorite outdoor playgrounds. After the spring rains, the desert floor comes to life with colorful wildflowers. In the fall, splashes of yellow and red add dimension to the landscape.

In winter, when places are largely inaccessible due to snow, the Badlands become a favorite getaway destination. Though the area receives a light dusting of snow during cold months, trails usually remain unobstructed. 

In summer months, Oregon’s high desert is hot and dusty. If you are visiting the Badlands from June-September, bring lots of water, lather up on sunscreen, and avoid the hottest hours of the day.

CAMPING IN THE OREGON BADLANDS WILDERNESS

For lovers of starry night skies and high desert solitude, the Oregon Badlands Wilderness presents a fantastic camping option near Bend. There are no specified campgrounds in the Badlands. However, since the entire wilderness area is under the jurisdiction of the BLM, camping is permitted free of charge. 

Just make sure to leave no trace, avoid camping at trailheads, prioritize setting up your tent in previously disturbed areas, and pack out what you bring in.

For those who wish to experience the Badlands but do not have a tent, the Rustic Ranch Cottage has direct access to the sprawling wilderness area. It is as close as you can get to experiencing the Badlands in ‘luxury.’

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The Oregon Badlands Wilderness may not offer the most dramatic landscape near Bend, but it is a a testament to the area’s varied and complex geology. 

Sure, first-time travelers to Central Oregon are far more likely to head to the Cascade Lakes, explore the waterfalls in the Deschutes National Forest, or hit the slopes for some fresh powder. 

But for hikers looking to get off the beaten path, the Badlands offer well-maintained trails, fascinating landscapes, and plenty of solitude. 

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Located smack in the center of Oregon, the city of Bend boasts access to some of the state’s best outdoor offerings. The charming mountain town lies sandwiched between a national forest, a desert wilderness, and a national volcanic monument. Within half an hour, its tourists and residents can reach a string of sparkling lakes, some of the country’s best rock-climbing cliffs, and Oregon’s largest ski resort.

Bend is a scenically-endowed town that is teeming with things to do and places to visit. Once merely an afterthought on Oregon itineraries, Bend is now Central Oregon‘s thriving regional hub and a launchpad for trips into the surrounding wilderness.

BEND OREGON: ACTIVITIES AND ATTRACTIONS

It goes without saying that many of the best things to do in Bend involve the outdoors.

Bend is the type of place where you can go skiing in the morning, hiking in the afternoon, rock climbing in the evening, and stargazing at night. It truly is a wonderland for outdoor enthusiasts—a place where the natural world is a near-constant presence in the cityscape.

Drive five minutes outside of Bend in any direction, and you’ll find yourself immersed in nature. Drive half an hour, and you’re privy to some of the most enticing landscapes in the country.

Of course, there’s plenty to do within the city limits as well.

From museums to shopping and from world-class eateries to a fantastic outdoor concert venue, Bend is a city that punches far above its size when it comes to activities and attractions.

THINGS TO DO IN BEND OREGON

With a population just shy of 100,000 residents, Bend combines big city amenities with small town charm. It is a city that has evolved tremendously in the past few decades. And though its rapid-fire growth has not always been praised by longstanding locals, the city’s influx of visitors and residents has resulted in an explosion of things to do in town.

Bend has a highly touted culinary scene, a thriving art scene, and more breweries per capita than just about anywhere else in the world.

• TAKE A STROLL IN DRAKE PARK

Soaking in views of the Deschutes River from Drake Park is one of the top things to do in Bend Oregon. The scenic Deschutes River bisects Bend’s downtown and adds to the city’s plethora or recreational activities.

Drake Park spans 13 scenic acres along the river in downtown. Its grassy lawn is a community gathering place dotted with leafy trees and picnic benches.

Along its shores, Drake Park offers walking trails that boast views over the placid waters of Mirror Pond.

• SIP YOUR WAY ALONG THE BEND ALE TRAIL

It is difficult to mention Bend without drawing attention to the area’s bewildering number of outdoor opportunities. The city has trails galore: for hiking, skiing, mountain biking, you name it.

And in Bend, there’s even a trail dedicated to beer.

The Bend Ale Trail was founded in 2010 and initially included six breweries. Today, it includes 22 breweries, with more on the horizon. Claiming one independent brewery for every 4,500 residents, the town produces more suds per capita than any other place in Oregon.

The granddaddy of them all is Deschutes—the eighth largest craft brewery in the United States.

• SHOP OR DINE AT THE OLD MILL DISTRICT

Thirty years ago, Bend was a logging town in decline. Today, it is a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts the world over.

In recent years, new neighborhoods have mushroomed up around Bend, as old ones have received unrecognizable makeovers.

The Old Mill District south of downtown puts Bend’s transformation into full view. The smoke stacks of an old lumber mill—visible from many places in town—-now mark the location of Bend’s REI.

Its nearby brick buildings have been repurposed into one of the city’s premier shopping and entertainment areas.

The shops and restaurants at the Old Mill District are a mix of local boutiques and nationwide chains. In typical Central Oregon fashion, the shopping center integrates the outdoors by abutting paved walking trails and overlooking the scenic waters of the Deschutes River.

• HIKE OR DRIVE UP PILOT BUTTE

Bend’s outskirts boast volcanoes and mountains in nearly all directions. But for those who cannot bear the thought of traveling beyond town to access Central Oregon’s peaks, Bend showcases its very own extinct volcano within city limits.

Pilot Butte is a popular cinder cone volcano that lies in Bend’s easter suburbs. At 480 ft, it stands high enough above town that it offers unobstructed views of the snow-dusted Cascade Mountains.

Hiking or driving to the top of Pilot Butte is a year-round Bend activity. For first-time visitors to the area, it is a fantastic place to get a lay of the land.

• CATCH A SHOW AT THE LES SCHWAB AMPHITHEATER

The Les Schwab Amphitheater is Bend’s premier outdoor music venue. On summer weekends, it draws both ticketed and free concerts. In the past few years, the amphitheater has attracted the likes of Jack Johnson, Bob Dylan, Coldplay, and Death Cab for Cutie.

Perched right on the river across from the Old Mill, the amphitheater is a relaxing place to sit back on the lawn and listen to a show as the Deschutes River ambles past. Travel and Leisure even dubbed it one of the best outdoor venues in the country.

Seeing a show at the Les Schwab Amphitheater is near the top of my Bend bucket list.

Dan and I were planning on attending a concert this year, but 2020 threw a wrench in our plans (as usual).

• VISIT THE HIGH DESERT MUSEUM

Bend’s High Desert Museum showcases the history, ecology, and geology of Oregon’s eastern desert. According to many, it is the top tourist attraction in Bend and one of the best museums in Oregon.

The High Desert Museum houses a mix of permanent and rotating exhibits. It introduces visitors to the area’s Native cultures, highlights the significance of the Oregon Trail, and contains an early 20th century ranch on its property.

Bend’s High Desert Museum is a top destination for adults and children alike. I have fond memories of visiting the place as a child. In fact, I’d wager that visiting the museum is one of the top things to do in Bend with kids due to its interactive displays and animal exhibits.

Though the High Desert Museum houses wild animals, it is not a zoo. The museum rehabilitates native high desert fauna that would otherwise not survive in the wild.

Animals at the museum include otters, falcons, porcupines, and a grey fox.

THINGS TO DO NEAR BEND OREGON (WITHIN 30 MINUTES)

Bend is a city so inextricably linked to the outdoors, that it is impossible to mention the top things to do in Bend without highlighting the wealth of natural attractions that lie within an arm’s reach of town.

If you’re planning a visit to Bend, chances are you’re looking to explore some of the area’s surroundings. Central Oregon abounds with desert, canyons, mountains, forests, lakes, rivers, lava flows, hot springs, and waterfalls. Many of the most geologically striking areas in Oregon lie at Bend’s fingertips, within a half-hour drive of downtown.

While they aren’t exactly things to do in Bend, these nearby attractions are what gives the town its reputation as the Pacific Northwest‘s ultimate outdoor playground.

• HIKE TUMALO FALLS

Tumalo Falls is a 97-foot waterfall that pours over a basalt ledge. It is one of the top places to visit near Bend due to its close proximity and picturesque setting.

Tumalo Falls lies nestled in a ponderosa forest, about 25 minutes west of downtown Bend. Though its silvery cascade is visible from the Tumalo Falls trailhead, the area merits more than just a passing photograph.

A 7 mile Tumalo Falls hike encompasses a number of small cascades that tumble through the evergreen hillsides of the Deschutes National Forest.

While the waterfall-laden trail can’t quite compete with Oregon’s Trail of Ten Falls near Salem, it is nonetheless a stunning place to visit within half an hour of Bend.

• PADDLE OR BIKE THE DESCHUTES RIVER TRAIL

The Deschutes is the heart and soul of Bend. And while paddling the river through the city’s core is a popular Bend activity, the river has more than 25 navigable miles that are suitable for non-motorized water sports.

The multi-use Deschutes River Trail is a year-round recreation amenity that follows the course of Central Oregon’s beloved river. It is one of the best places to kayak and paddle board near Bend. Though there are a number of place to paddle the Deschutes River Trail, we chose the course from Dillon Falls to Benham Falls.

The Deschutes River Trail is not merely a wonderland for kayakers and paddlers, however. A series of pathways winds along the riverbank’s pine forests, lava flows and riparian zones. The riverbank pathways are popular for hikers, joggers, cyclists, and bird-watchers.

The multi-use trail can be accessed from a number of day use areas along Forest Road 41. Parking in any of the areas requires a $5 day use pass, a Northwest Forest Pass, or an Interagency Annual Pass.

• VISIT SMITH ROCK STATE PARK

Smith Rock State park is one of Central Oregon’s most beloved attractions and, undoubtedly, one of the top places to see when visiting Bend. Located half an hour from town, it a natural rock gym that draws climbing enthusiasts from all corners of the globe.

Oregon’s Smith Rock State Park is the birthplace of rock climbing as a sport. Its towering cliffs boast some of the best climbing routes in the world. Among the thousands of climbing routes to choose from, popular challenges include the Moons of Pluto, the Mesa Verde Wall, and Monkey Face.

While Smith Rock State Park is a haven for rock climbers, adrenaline-junkies are not the only ones to be seduced by the area’s magical cliffs. Smith Rock’s unique topography is a result of the Crooked River carving through basalt rock over millennia. The state park has been deemed one of Oregon’s 7 natural wonders and is consistently heralded as one of the state’s best attractions.

Suggested hikes in the area include Misery Ridge Trail, the Canyon to Rim Loop, and Summit Loop Trail.

• TRAVEL THE CASCADE LAKES HIGHWAY

Central Oregon’s Cascade Lakes Highway is dripping in natural splendor. It boasts jaw-dropping vistas at every bend, and is the gateway to some of the largest and most magnificent alpine lakes in the United States.

More than a dozen jewel-like lakes lie scattered along the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway. In the hot summer months, these glistening bodies of water provide ample opportunities to swim, kayak, canoe, and paddle board.

While the Cascade Lakes all boast spectacular surroundings, they each have characteristics that make them unique.

Some lakes cater to kayaking and stand-up paddling, others attract water-skiers in droves. Some have lava-rimmed shorelines and sandy beaches, others are marshy havens suitable for bird watching.

Whether you’re into sightseeing, water activities, or relaxation, the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway is one of Bend’s top must-see attractions.

• GET LOST IN THE OREGON BADLANDS

It isn’t difficult to understand why tourists flock to Central Oregon’s mountains and lakes during sunny summer days. The area is a dreamland for hikers, photographers, and outdoor enthusiasts.

But when crowds inundate the area’s hiking trails and flood the waters along the Cascade Lakes Byway, locals drive out into the vast high desert.

The sprawling Oregon Badlands—a 29,000 acre wilderness area protected by the Bureau of Land Management—is one of the best places to experience Bend’s high desert magic.

The Oregon Badlands Wilderness represents outstanding examples of ancient western juniper woodlands and basalt rock lava formations. Almost 50 miles of sandy pathways crisscross the area’s jumble of rocks and trees.

In summer months, Oregon’s high desert is hot and dusty. Bring lots of water, lather up on sunscreen, and avoid the warmest hours of the day.

• SKI OR SNOWBOARD AT MOUNT BACHELOR

Skiing and snowboarding at Mount Bachelor is one of the top things to do near Bend Oregon. Come winter, it is Bend’s premier attraction and the hub around which the city’s outdoor recreation revolves.

The mountain—aptly named for the fact that it stands slightly removed from the prominent Three Sisters—contains the sixth largest ski resort in North America.

Mount Bachelor boasts 4,000 skiable acres, 3,365 feet of vertical drop, and more than 100 runs.

For those who aren’t keen on zooming down mountainsides, its Nordic Center is a hub of cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

• DISCOVER SNO PARKS AND SNOWSHOE TRAILS

Bend’s winter activities don’t end at Mount Bachelor. Some of Oregon’s most enticing winter wonderlands lie within striking distance of town.

Bend’s vicinity contains multiple areas suitable for snowmobiling, snowshoeing and nordic skiing.  The Cascade Lakes Byway near Mt Bachelor is Central Oregon’s most popular winter getaway destination. Another heavily-frequented area lies along McKenzie Pass, near the Hoodoo Ski Area. Still others prefer to explore the snowy slopes of the Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument.

Visiting Central Oregon’s sno-parks is one of the top things to do in Bend in winter. Popular sno-parks near Bend include the Virginia Meissener Sno-Park, the Wanoga Snow Play Area and the Ten Mile Sno-Park.

• VISIT THE NEWBERRY CRATER VOLCANIC MONUMENT

The Newberry Crater Volcanic Monument lies within the boundaries of the Deschutes National Forest, about a half hour south of Bend. The national monument is home to some of the the most fascinating volcanic landscapes in the Pacific Northwest.

The Newberry Crater consists of three main areas worth exploring. Near the Lava Lands Visitor Center, paved walking paths showcase a world of solidified lava flows that sprawl outward toward the forests. A short drive or shuttle up Lava Butte reveals the expanse from a birds-eye vantage point.

If you have more time to explore the area, consider hiking the underground lava tube, soaking in the views of the Big Obsidian Flow from Paulina Peak, or traveling off the beaten path through the Lava Cast Forest.

WHERE TO STAY IN BEND OREGON

From free camping to luxury resort stays, Bend has something for everyone when it comes to accommodation options.

For campers, the nearby Deschutes National Forests and Bureau of Land Management lands have plenty of places to pitch a tent. When it comes to established campsites, the Bivouac Campground at Smith Rock State Park is my favorite.

For non-camping travelers looking for budget accommodation in Bend, the Bunk+Brew Hostel offers cheap shared lodging. The bunkhouse comes complete with a sauna room, a food truck, and free check-in beers on arrival. It is a good (albeit noisy) option for backpackers and budget travelers.

For those seeking private accommodation with comfortable amenities and beautiful settings, the Riverhouse on the Deschutes and the Tetherow Resort are fantastic options.

For luxury vacationers seeking a mountain retreat near Bend, the Pronghorn Resort offers luxurious rooms overlooking some of Central Oregon’s most alluring scenery.

WHEN TO VISIT BEND OREGON

Bend is a year-round travel destination. In summer, the region’s unparalleled outdoor opportunities attract rock climbers, cyclists and hikers from around the globe. In winter, its snowcapped peaks ensure that skiers and snowboarders have plenty to do.

That being said, the best month to visit Bend depends entirely on what you’re hoping to experience. Smith Rock and the Badlands are best visited in Spring and Fall due to soaring temperatures. The Cascade Lakes and Paulina Peak are best visited in summer months. Tumalo Falls and many of the in-town amenities are enjoyable year-round.

During winter months, many of the snow-dusted Cascade Mountain attractions remain off-limits due to road closures.

WHERE TO EAT IN BEND OREGON

From food trucks to fine dining, Bend is a culinary haven.

The Central Oregon town has established itself as a place where casual eats are plentiful, cheap, and delicious. The Lot, On Tap, and the Podski all offer food truck pods similar to those found in Portland.

For sit-down restaurants at a mid-range price point, Wild Rose, Spork, and McKay’s Cottage are crowd-pleasers (beware of long wait times come summer weekends).

Though I haven’t personally eaten at many of Bend’s high-end restaurants, I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at 5 Fusion and look forward to some special occasion meals at nice restaurants in the future. I’m told that Ariana Restaurant boasts an exceptional fine-dining experiences.

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Bend is full of things to do, no matter the season. The area is blessed with some of the most striking landscapes in the United States and its varied topography means that you’re never far from deserts, forests, lakes, mountains or rivers.

The diversity of tourist attractions in and around Bend make the Central Oregon mountain town a fantastic destination for backpackers, families, nature enthusiasts, and adventure-seekers.

If you’re looking for a place where you can ski in the morning, hike in the afternoon, eat a gourmet meal for dinner, and stargaze in the desert at night, then there’s no place better than Bend.

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When it comes to natural splendor, Central Oregon is a land of plenty. It features everything an outdoor adventurer could dream of: verdant forests, towering snow-capped mountains, arid desert, and ancient lava flows.

Amongst all its alpine beauty and high desert magic, I sometimes forget that the area is a mecca for water sports as well. 

But Central Oregon’s lakes and rivers are not merely an afterthought. In fact, the Cascade Lakes—a necklace of sparkling pools along the eastern edge of Central Oregon’s Cascade Mountains—are some of the state’s most alluring features. 

With their forested settings and spectacular mountain backdrops, the jewel-like alpine lakes are recreational hotspots for Bendites and locals alike.

THE CASCADE LAKES SCENIC BYWAY    

The Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway is a historic highway that winds its way through 66 miles of towering mountain peaks and lakefront vistas. It passes alongside the most beautiful alpine lakes in Oregon, and connects the city of Bend with Highway 58.

Scenic America considers the Cascade Lakes Highway to be among the top ten most important byways in the United States. 

And, considering the glistening lakes that adorn its entire route, I can certainly see why. 

The national scenic byway begins in Bend and passes through the heart of Central Oregon. Along the way, it traverses the Deschutes National Forest and provides peek-a-boo views of the towering Cascade Mountains. 

After showcasing magnificent views of Mount Bachelor, Broken Top and the Three Sisters, the drive reaches Todd Lake—the first in a string of Cascade lakes that shimmer under the brilliant Central Oregon sun. 

TODD LAKE

With Bend in the rearview mirror, Todd Lake is the first major water landmark along the Cascade Lakes Byway. Todd Lake lies on a potholed gravel road, about half an hour from downtown Bend. Due to its close proximity to town, it is one of the easiest high mountain lakes to access and a popular photography destination.

Todd Lake sits at an elevation of 6,150 feet, between Broken Top and Mount Bachelor. A 1.7 mile loop trail around the lake reveals spectacular views of the two mountains. The level stroll is one of the top hikes in the area. 

Thanks to the fact that motorized crafts are prohibited, Todd Lake’s waters remain pristine and glassy. 

I imagine it would be a wonderful place to swim, canoe, or paddle board. 

SPARKS LAKE

Sparks Lake is among the most popular destinations in Central Oregon. The sprawling body of water fans out over a shallow marshy plain and showcases spectacular views of Mount Bachelor, the South Sister, and Broken Top. 

Located just 25km from Bend, Sparks Lake makes for a popular day trip destination. While the lake’s parking lot can overflow on sunny weekends, its size means that paddling away from the crowds is possible even on the most congested summer days.

Kayaking Sparks Lake is extremely popular, thanks in large part to its motorboat-free waters and maze of marsh-lined channels.

For those who want to soak in the scenery of Oregon’s Cascade Lakes without setting foot in a boat, Spark Lake offers picnic areas and a fantastic little hiking trail. The Ray Atkeson Loop Trail is a 2.5 mile level hike that showcases the area’s spectacular natural setting.

DEVIL’S LAKE

Devil’s Lake lies just off the Cascade Lakes Highway, about 30 miles southwest of Bend. Like Sparks Lake, it is visible from the road and makes for a popular kayaking and paddle boarding destination. 

Thanks to its shallow depths and lack of nutrients, Devil’s Lake is an exquisite turquoise color. Though the lake doesn’t boast the mountain views characteristic of Bend’s other Cascade Lakes, it lies nestled amongst ponderosa forest and age-old lava flows. 

Devil’s Lake is one of the most striking lakes in all of Oregon. Its only downside is the hum of vehicle traffic from the nearby road. 

ELK LAKE

Elk Lake is one of the most popular stops along the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway. It is a one-size-fits-all lake that caters to all types of water recreation. Come summer months, it becomes a magnet for boaters and the area’s go-to place for water skiing.

Unlike some of the quieter destinations on the Cascade Lakes Highway, Elk Lake contains a resort, boat rentals and plenty of amenities. 

Furthermore, Elk Lake is large and windy in comparison to other lakes in the area—making it the number one sailing destination in the central Cascades. 

Although it can be crowded and resort-like at times, it is possible to find some quiet spots around Elk Lake’s shoreline. Dan and I encountered fewer crowds when we followed the gravel road to a the Sunset View Day Use Area.

On the back side of the lake, we found a wide sandy beach that was perfect for swimming, sunbathing and picnicking.   

HOSMER LAKE

Hosmer Lake is a hidden turquoise gem surrounded by lush, emerald forest. It lies along a forest service road, behind Elk Lake.

While Elk Lake is known as one of the best places in the area for boating and sailing, Hosmer Lake prohibits motorized crafts and is a haven for paddlers and kayakers. Its maze-like waterways and narrow channels make it a fun place to explore.

Of all the lakes in Central Oregon, few are as enticing as Hosmer Lake. The lake has three distinct areas, all of which provide incredible views of nearby South Sister, Broken Top and Mount Bachelor.

Hosmer Lake consists of two large open areas that are connected by a winding waterway. Encroaching reeds completely obscure the banks, leaving only a narrow channel. At the north end of the lake, water drains into a porous rim of lava. 

Navigating the narrow channels by boat is the only real way to experience Hosmer Lake, since much of it lies hidden from sight behind tall bulrushes. 

LAVA LAKE

As its name suggests, Lava Lake formed as a result of lava flows from nearby cinder cones. Solidified lava and ponderosa forest line the edges of the lake. To the north, Broken Top and South Sister puncture the horizon line. 

When comparing it to the other lakes in the area, I found Lava Lake to be somewhat of a middle ground in terms of size, amenities, location, and recreational opportunities. The lake lies smack dab in the middle of the scenic byway. It is not the most crowded lake in the area, nor is it the quietest. Its calm waters allow for motorized crafts, but all boats must adhere to 10 mile an hour speed limits.

Lava Lake Resort Marina features boat rentals, an RV park with full hookups, and a basic general store. While it does not offer lodging, it has tree-line campsites that are reservable in summer. 

LITTLE LAVA LAKE

Little Lava Lake lies just behind (Big) Lava Lake, in the middle of the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway. The stunning body of water—surrounded by mature pine forests and bulrushes—is a sapphire gem that receives far less attention than its northerly neighbors.

Yet, while Little Lava Lake remains relatively off the beaten path, it is perhaps the most important of all the Cascade Lakes. For not only is the lake a scenic place to visit, but it is also the birthplace of the Deschutes River—a spectacular winding waterway that weaves through downtown Bend and is one of Central Oregon’s defining features. 

Like Hosmer Lake, Little Lava Lake is known for being a scenic destination that prohibits motorized boats. Paddlers and anglers may find that it offers a quiet alternative to some of the more popular lakes in the region.

CULTUS LAKE

Tucked down a gravel road away from the main highway, Cultus Lake’s size comes as a bit of a surprise. The tree-lined lake covers an area of 1.2 square miles and is one of the largest and deepest in Central Oregon.

The natural glacier-formed lake lies approximately 48 miles southwest of Bend. It is one of the few Cascade Lakes that allows high speed motorized boats—making it a popular summertime destination for thrill-seekers,  wakeboarders and jet skiers.

Like Elk Lake, Cultus Lake is a bustling boating destination that has all the amenities one would need. Its resort offers lodging facilities, a general store, dining options, and boat rentals. 

LITTLE CULTUS LAKE

With the exception of its name, Little Cultus Lake is nothing like its larger counterpart. While (Big) Cultus Lake is a busy speedboating paradise, Little Cultus Lake caters to those looking for a relaxed atmosphere with fewer crowds. 

Since Dan and I were trying to race the sinking sun on our drive down the Cascade Lakes Highway, we didn’t have a chance to discover Little Cultus Lake firsthand. 

From my understanding, however, it is a tranquil and overlooked destination that deserves attention. 

CRANE PRAIRIE RESERVOIR

The Crane Prairie Reservoir is an artificial lake that covers 3,420 acres on the Deschutes River. The reservoir gets its name from the abundance of cranes that inhabited the area’s prairies prior to the damming of the river.

Thankfully, while the creation of the lake altered the landscape permanently, the Crane Prairie Reservoir remains a haven for geese, osprey, herons, and sandhill cranes. It is a thriving wildlife habitat and a popular destination for local fishermen.

The lake’s large size and distance from Bend make it a relatively quiet place to visit.

We didn’t have much time to enjoy the Crane Prairie Reservoir. Yet, from what we could see, the lake offers an abundance of recreational and birdwatching opportunities. 

Boats, kayaks, paddle boards, and canoes are available directly from Crane Prairie Resort. The family-owned resort also offers camping hookups, rustic cabins, snacks, and a tackle shop. 

TWIN LAKES

The glassy waters of North and South Twin Lakes reflect the skies in near-perfect symmetry. The circular pools are a result of violent steam explosions that formed shallow craters. Over millennia, the craters have filled with water and transformed into mirror-like lakes that are perfect for swimming and paddling.

The two lakes—located less than a mile apart—are virtually indistinguishable from one another.

Since they don’t boast the incredible views of Bachelor, Broken Top, and the Three Sisters, the Twin Lakes are generally quieter destinations.

When we visited on a sunny September weekend, we saw only a handful of other people spread out across the two lakes.

Twin Lakes Resort lies on the shores of South Twin Lake. It offers a country store, RV hookups, cabins, and a restaurant. 

WICKIUP RESERVOIR

Like the Crane Prairie Reservoir, the Wickiup Reservoir formed artificially as a result of the damming the Deschutes River in 1949. 

Under normal circumstances, the massive 10,330 acre lake is a haven for anglers. It is dubbed the best lake for brown trout fishing in Oregon. 

I would have never known of the Wickiup Reservoir’s sheer size had I relied merely on first-hand experience, however.

When Dan and I visited, extremely low water levels indicated only a small stream. With the lake’s water drained, the Deschutes River seemed to be a feeble shadow of its former self. 

Unexpectedly, the dried out Wickiup Reservoir ended up being a highlight of our trip down the Cascade Lakes Highway.

We drove out onto the lakebed—past a forest of tree stumps—to an open area that overlooked the serpentine course of the remaining waterway. 

When we got out to the center of the lakebed, we noticed a few people had set up camp in the area. 

Had we planned accordingly, we would have loved to do the same. 

DAVIS LAKE

The Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway continues south to Davis Lake—the last in a long chain of lakes that connects Bend with Highway 58. 

Davis Lake formed when a large lava flow cut off Odell Creek. The lake contracts significantly in summer months, when water seepage through the porous lava rocks outpaces inflow from Odell and Ranger creeks.

Like Little Cultus Lake, we didn’t have the time to visit Davis Lake during our trip along the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway. From my understanding, however, Davis Lake is a renowned fly fishing destination famous for its abundance of rainbow trout. 

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Central Oregon’s Cascade Lakes are showstoppers. Come summer, they attract recreation enthusiasts and provide respite from the warm desert sun. 

While the Cascade Lakes all boast spectacular surroundings, they each have characteristics that make them unique. Some lakes cater to speedboats, others attract kayakers in droves. Some showcase long sandy beaches, others are marshy wonderlands suitable for birdwatching. 

On a hot summer’s day, the chain of lakes becomes a magnet for thrill-lovers and relaxation-seekers alike.  Along with the area’s desert, volcanoes, mountains, rivers, and forests, the Cascade Lakes solidify Central Oregon as the Pacific Northwest‘s ultimate outdoor playground. 

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The wind-sculpted Oregon dunes are among the most alluring features of the central Oregon coast. Formed over the course of millennia and ever expanding, they comprise one of the largest tracts of temperate coastal sand dunes in the world.

Along a 50 mile stretch of Highway 101 between Coos Bay and Florence, the shifting sand mountains harbor a unique ecosystem.  They conceals coastal lakes, marshes, rivers and spruce forests.

At the heart of this sandy wonderland, lies the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area.

Whether you’re looking for peaceful solitude or adrenaline-pumping fun, there are tons of ways to explore this sprawling stretch of coastline.

THE OREGON DUNES NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

As you approach Florence from the southern Oregon coast, monolith-strewn shores transition to an area of wind-carved sand dunes. These 40,000 acres of rolling dunes—some rising as high as 500 ft above sea level—that undulate inland to meet coastal forests.

They form the largest swath of oceanfront sand dunes in North America.

The Oregon Dunes are a testament to the geological diversity and scenic splendor that lies along the Oregon Coast’s 300+ mile expanse.

JESSIE M HONEYMAN STATE PARK

Jessie M Honeyman State Park, also known simply as ‘Honeyman’ is one of my favorite places in Oregon. With its abundance of sand, water and forest, it offers some of the Pacific Northwest‘s most unforgettable coastal scenery.

Honeyman is the northern entry point of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. A two mile stretch of towering sand dunes separates the park from the shoreline of the Pacific Ocean. There are no marked trails leading to the beach, though traversing the area makes for an unforgettable excursion.

While reaching the beach from Honeyman requires a bit of a trek, the area is blessed with two beautiful freshwater lakes: Cleawox (great for swimming and paddling) and Woahink (a popular boating destination).

I have fond memories of my childhood trips to Honeyman. I remember the thrill of charging down the dunes as fast as my legs could carry me, and tumbling into the lake for a refreshing swim afterwards. I remember staying in yurts near Cleawox Lake and renting pedal boats at Woahink Lake.

Camping at Honeyman is a rite of passage for those of us who grew up in Oregon’s central Willamette Valley. The area is a wonderland that makes for a popular day trip from Eugene.

But sentimental values aside, Honeyman State Park is a special place to visit. And if you only have time for one destination within the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, then this popular locale should make the top of your list.

TAHKENITCH DUNES

Situated south of Honeyman Park, Tahkenitch is another highlight of the Oregon Coast. The dunes at Tahkenitch may not be the coast’s tallest or most visually striking, but they showcase the area’s tapestry of forest, rivers, lakes, and sand.

The Tahkenitch Dunes are off the beaten path compared to Honeyman State Park—which makes them a wonderful place to get away from the crowds.

We set out to explore the area on a beautiful September weekend, and only ran into a handful of other people along the way.

Though there are a few different trails you can take through the Tahkenitch Dunes, we chose to hike the Tahkenitch Loop via Threemile Lake. The 6 mile triangle-shaped trail weaves through an old growth spruce forest, before traversing grass-fringed hills of sand. The area is reminiscent to the Indian Sands Trail, along the Samuel H Baordman Scenic Corridor.

We followed the winding path out to the dunes and trudged up a hilltop that gave way to views of Threemile Lake.

I could hardly believe that we had the area completely to ourselves.

From Threemile Lake, the path continues westward, toward a lonely stretch of windswept ocean.

We walked along the beach for about a mile and reveled in the feeling of being so utterly alone in such an expansive area, before heading back across the dunes and forest, to our car.

JOHN DELLENBACK DUNES

The John Dellenback Trail is a 5.5 mile out and back path that traverses the Oregon Coast’s tallest and most impressive stretch of dunes. The beginning of the trail leads through a typical coastal collection of pine and grasses. After the first half mile, however, the vegetation all but disappears and the trail plunges straight into a dry sand sea.

The largely uninterrupted swath of sand undulates outward—its peaks and troughs shifting continually over time. It is a fantastic area to explore on foot, since it prohibits the use of motorized vehicles.

Some of the dunes along the John Dellenback Trail reach several hundred feet above sea level. As with most dunes, hiking to their crests can be a tiring ordeal. (Think 2 steps forward, one step back).  The nature of the hike makes trekking across the John Dellenback Trail significantly more strenuous than its 5.5 miles would otherwise suggest.

At the John Dellenback Dunes, you can easily walk out into the middle of the sand sea and feel like your footprints are the only human evidence for miles.

As you proceed, I suggest you keep an eye on the posts that mark the intended trail.

Since much of the John Dellenback Trail traverses dunes that are largely indistinguishable from one another, finding your place in the gigantic sand box can be disorienting to say the least.

ACTIVITIES AND RECREATION AT THE OREGON DUNES

The central Oregon coast is a popular recreation destination. Adrenaline junkies love to tackle the sandy mountains on sandboards and dune buggies.

• RENT DUNE BUGGIES

If zooming up and down sand dunes like your cup of tea, you can rent ATVs from several outfitters, including Sun Buggy and Spinreel.

Near the Three Capes Scenic Loop north of Lincoln City, you can explore the Sandlake Dunes by renting a buggy from Sandlake Tsunami ATV Rental.

• SANDBOARDING IN OREGON

If you’re looking to have a cheaper and more low-key dune adventure, sandboarding is a thrilling alternative. The Sand Master Park in Florence is the world’s first sandboarding park. It offers rentals and lessons for those interested in conquering the area ‘snowboard-style.’ In fact, when I went on a sandboarding tour in Swakopmund Namibia, my guide even acknowledged the Florence dunes as being the place where sandboarding first got its start!

• PADDLE BOARDING IN THE OREGON DUNES NRA

The rolling sand mountains are, of course, the defining feature of the Oregon Dunes Recreation Area. Yet, while it is best known for its sprawling expanse of sand, the area’s forests, lakes and rivers are just as worthy of exploration.

For nature lovers and water sports enthusiasts, the Oregon dunes provide ample kayaking and paddling opportunities. They contain sparkling lakes and a handful of twisting waterways that practically beg to be explored.

The Siltcoos River Canoe Trail is one of my favorite paddle boarding destinations in the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area.

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I’ve always loved running down dunes. Throughout my travels, I have chased desertscapes from Sossusvlei to the Sudan, and from Altyn Emel  to White Sands.

My fascination with vast sand seas started just an hour west of my hometown, in the sprawling Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. It is here—in a landscape so otherworldly yet familiar—that I developed a love for sand dunes that has brought me to some of the most remote and desolate reaches of the world.

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When explorers came across the immense canyon that forms the border of present-day Oregon and Idaho, they figured they may as well have stumbled upon Hell. The inhospitable landscape—home to rattlesnakes, sweltering temperatures, and rugged barren landscapes—proved to be a formidable obstacle on their westward journeys.

Many tried to tame the Snake River with boats and ferries, but hardly any were successful. 

Even today, Hells Canyon is no easy place to visit. The cavernous river gorge is remote, desolate, and hundreds of miles from the trodden tourist trail.

But it is also a scenic gem that is as undiscovered as it is breathtaking, and as difficult to reach as it is worthwhile. 

Unlike the world-renowned red-rock canyons of the American Southwest, Hells Canyon has very little name recognition.

Few people have heard of the vast wilderness area.

Even fewer have traveled to the middle of nowhere to see its grandeur with their own eyes. 

HELLS CANYON NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

The Hells Canyon National Recreation Area consists of a system of river gorges in northeast Oregon and western Idaho. Though Hells Canyon admittedly doesn’t boast the same dramatic colors as Arizona’s Grand Canyon, its immensity is every bit as impressive. Hells Canyons’ scale can be deceiving. At its widest, it extends 10 miles. Its walls tally a whopping 7,913 ft —nearly 2,000 ft more than those of Arizona’s beloved geologic wonder—making it the deepest river gorge in North America.

Hells Canyon’s walls shelter a massive wilderness area that contains dispersed camping opportunities and miles of rarely-trodden trails. The far-flung outdoor playground encompasses more than 200,000 acres of wilderness managed by the U.S. Forest Service.

The remote nature of Hells Canyon makes it a time-consuming place to explore. The canyon’s incongruous roads are often disconnected and indirect. To get from one viewpoint to another can take the better part of a day. 

For travelers with limited time, I recommend focusing on Hat Point Road and the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway. 

THE IMNAHA ROAD TO HAT POINT OVERLOOK

For the most dramatic views of Hells Canyon from above, adventure-loving travelers can take the spectacular unpaved route to Hat Point Overlook. 

To reach Hat Point from Joseph, Dan and I followed Highway 350 for about 30 miles, to the tiny community of Imnaha. From there, we headed down a narrow gravel forest service road that clings to the Imnaha Canyon walls and climbs at a 16% grade. The road—though harrowing at times—is in decent condition.  It is approximately 24 miles long and open from June through October.

The entire journey to Hat Point takes roughly  1.5 hours each way. 

As with many far-flung places, traveling to Hat Point is about more than just the final destination. Along the entire journey from Imnaha to Hat Point, the road reveals spectacular views of the Imnaha Canyon and towering Wallowa Mountains. 

In many ways, the road to Hat Point reminded me of the unpaved Steens Mountain Loop in southeast Oregon. It is truly a desolate place of rugged scenery and inhospitable terrain. 

THE IMNAHA CANYON 

The road to Hat Point has a few different pullout areas that offer spectacular panoramic views of the Imnaha Canyon—a little-known gem that is every bit as scenic as nearby Hells Canyon.

The Imnaha River originates at an elevation of 8,000 ft, in the Wallowa Mountains. Over the course of  75 miles, it plunges nearly 7,000 ft to join the Snake River. The chiseled gorge that surrounds the river is accessible via the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area, the Eagle Cap Wilderness and the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway.

• FIVE MILE OVERLOOK

Five Mile Overlook is the first scenic viewpoint along the Hat Point road. It sits at the crux of a hairpin bend, after a precipitous climb through wildfire-ravaged forest. The overlook contains a parking area and panel showing the seasonal cycles of the canyon. 

In the distance, snow-covered peaks of the Eagle Cap Wilderness soar above the horizon. 

From the Five Mile Overlook, we pressed on to the Horse Creek Viewpoint. I jumped out of the car to take a photo, but found that overgrown trees were blocking the views.

• GRANNY VIEW OVERLOOK

About two thirds of the way down the road, Dan and I stopped at Granny View Overlook for some of the Imnaha River Canyon’s best panoramic vistas. 

The Granny View Overlook has bathrooms, a parking area, and paved walking trails that lead to spectacular views of the river from above. A short wheelchair-accessible walkway cuts through wildflower-speckled grasslands and leads to a wooden panoramic platform that showcases the chiseled walls of the Imnaha River Valley. 

I might argue that the scenery from Granny View Overlook is the most impressive of the entire drive. 

SNAKE RIVER CANYON AT HAT POINT

Hat Point sits at the end of a gravel road, overlooking the western edge of Hells Canyon. The scenic viewpoint gets its name from a cowboy who allegedly lost his hat to the canyon after a battle with an unruly horse. 

It affords the best Hells Canyon views in all of Oregon. 

As we gazed into the massive cavern from the Hat Point Overlook, it was difficult to believe that the Snake River flowed nearly 6,000 ft below where we were standing. 

• HAT POINT FIRE LOOKOUT TOWER

One of Oregon’s highest fire lookout towers (82 ft tall) crowns the Hat Point viewing area.  It is among the only remaining fully functioning fire towers in the United States, and is largely open to the public. When we visited, we were permitted to climb to the penultimate level of the lookout tower. The tower’s highest vantage point is a working lookout station for park workers.

From the fire tower lookout at Hat Point, views of the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area unfold in all directions. On the Idaho Side, the Seven Devils Mountains Range peers ominously into the depths of Hells Canyon. Idaho’s Seven Devils Mountains— snow-capped in all but the hottest months—poke above the canyon rim like a set of crooked teeth. 

To the west, Oregon’s Wallowa Mountains loom over the horizon. 

THE HELLS CANYON SCENIC BYWAY IN OREGON

Though Hat Point offers the best views of Hells Canyon, the recreation area’s other renowned lookout lies along the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway. 

Hells Canyon Scenic Byway follows a series of roads in a backwards ‘C’ shape, from La Grande to Baker City. In scenes somewhat reminiscent to Eastern Washington’s Palouse, it showcases the rolling hills of northeast Oregon. Beyond, the Wallowa Mountains form a stunning backdrop to the pastoral landscapes. 

Ironically, the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway doesn’t provide many views of North America’s deepest river gorge. Nor does the canyon itself seem to be the focus of the drive. 

Aside from the panorama at Hells Canyon Overlook, the byway mostly showcases hills of golden farmland, and soaring mountain peaks.

HELLS CANYON OVERLOOK

Hells Canyon Overlook offers the scenic byway’s only direct glimpse into the cavernous reaches of America’s largest canyon. It lies between Imnaha and Halfway, on a lonely forest service road that is only open during the late summer months. 

The well-established Hells Canyon Overlook has interpretive signs and is easily accessible.

However, the views of the canyon walls—while still pretty—are not quite as dramatic as those of Hat Point. 

VIEWING HELLS CANYON FROM BELOW

Properly exploring the Oregon side of Hells Canyon would require traveling along the Snake River and admiring the soaring canyon walls from down below (something I have not had the chance to do firsthand). 

On the Oregon side, travelers can access the canyon via a road that leaves from the small community of Oxbow. Rafting expeditions and boat tours of Hells Canyon leave from the Pittsburg Landing in Idaho. 

Because of the long distances between Hells Canyon’s attractions, Dan and I didn’t have time to visit the gorge from water-level. 

BAKER CITY: GATEWAY TO HELLS CANYON

Baker City—a charming town of 6,000—is known as Eastern Oregon’s base camp. It sits sandwiched between the Elkhorn Mountains and the Wallowas, at the southern end of the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway. 

Baker City is a surprisingly interesting town. It was once the largest community between Portland and Salt Lake City. In its compact core, it has more than 100 historic buildings, its very own Carnegie Library, and a host of public art displays. Its picturesque main street is home to the Geiser Grand Hotel—a historic landmark that dates back to 1889.

• OREGON TRAIL INTERPRETIVE CENTER

The Oregon Trail Interpretive Center lies a  few miles outside of Baker City. The center sits perched atop a hill, with sweeping views in all directions. 

The interpretive center is administered by the National Parks Service. It offers exhibits, multi-media presentations, more than four miles of walking trails, and a glimpse into northeast Oregon’s early history. The area tells the story of the Oregon Trail’s pioneers, explorers, miners and settlers. The sprawling 500 acre site includes remnants of the historic Flagstaff Gold Mine, actual ruts carved by covered wagons in the 1800s, and magnificent vistas of the Elkhorn Mountains. 

Since we visited during a global pandemic, Dan and I were not able to take advantage of the displays inside the visitor center. 

Nonetheless, we enjoyed exploring the area’s pathways, reading informational plaques on gold-mining in the area, and imagining what it might have been like to come across Hells Canyon in the days of westward exploration. 

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Hells Canyon may not be a staple of most Pacific Northwest itineraries, but it is the type of place that attracts intrepid travelers with its promises of untamed landscapes and unexplored frontiers. 

It doesn’t matter that its cavernous depths are filled with rattlesnakes. It doesn’t matter that the Seven Devils Wilderness—with names like She Devil, Twin Imps, and Devil’s Throne —loomed ominously overhead. 

Despite its name and relative obscurity, Hells Canyon is beautiful.

In fact, with its lonely roads, its wide open vistas, its breathtaking scenery, its wildflower-strewn hillsides, and its tourist-free hiking trails, nature-lovers might even think they’ve come across Heaven. 

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