Sayulita may have once been a tiny fishing village, but today the Mexican seaside town buzzes with surfers, beach-goers and vacationing gringos.

Located in Nayarit, just one hour north of Puerta Vallarta, the pleasant beachfront town maintains a relaxed hippie vibe despite its rapidly increasing popularity. It is artsy and colorful and oozing with chill.

The beautiful beaches in Sayulita are home to pounding surf and golden sands.

Overhead, colorful tropical birds flit amongst the dense greenery of Mexico’s Pacific Coast.

Visiting Sayulita Mexico

Prior to boarding our Puerta Vallarta bound flight, I wasn’t sure of the best things to do in Sayulita Mexico.

We visited Sayulita on a whim, after a chaotic day of standby travel. We had originally intended to fly to the Caribbean for a week, but two missed flights had us scrambling for a plan B  (traveling standby with an 18 month old is not always for the faint of heart).

And so—just two months after our weekend getaway to Mexico City and Teotihuacan—I found myself heading back to Mexico with Dan and Elio.

Sayulita ended up being an ideal getaway destination. Its chill vibe, beautiful beaches and tasty food immediately won us over.

Best Beaches in Sayulita

Sayulita is surrounded by a string of sandy shores.

During our stay in the area, we visited many of the top beaches in Sayulita.

Sayulita’s beaches are ideal for surfing and subpar for swimming. Strong currents make the Pacific shores pretty dangerous. We certainly weren’t going to risk cooling off in the water with our two year old son.

Nonetheless, Dan and I reveled in the sun and scenery, while Elio thoroughly enjoyed digging in the sand and pouring it on his head.

Sayulita Beach

When visiting the hippie surfer town on Mexico’s left coast, it’s pretty hard to miss Sayulita Beach. A long stretch of sand adjacent to town, the bustling beach attracts local families, foreign tourists, and surfers from around the world.

Playa Sayulita can get pretty crowded compared to the other beaches in the area. Along its shoreline, you’ll find umbrellas and sunbeds and some vendors selling food and drinks.

It will take you about 30 minutes to walk the entire length of Playa Sayulita. At the north end of the beach, you’ll find a jungle trail that leads over the headland to the beautiful beaches of Malpaso and las Cuevas.

Playa Malpaso

Playa Malpaso is a mile-long beach that stretches from Sayulita’s north end to the southern edge of San Pancho. It lies adjacent to Playa las Cuevas and can be accessed via a trail that cuts through the jungle at Sayulita’s north end.

Malpaso Beach is largely undeveloped and still somewhat wild. Dense arid jungle lines its golden crescent of sand. There are no hotels or resorts or beachside restaurants on Playa Malpaso. Nor will you find rows of sunbeds or hawkers selling tourist trinkets.

The pristine stretch of sand is heaven for solitude-seekers. During our visit to the beach, we sat in the shade of a few large trees and let Elio play in the sand for a couple hours. We only encountered one other tourist.

It was blissful.

Because the beach is fully exposed to the rip currents of the Pacific coastline, swimming at Malpaso can be dangerous. 

Playa Las Cuevas

At low tide, Playa Malpaso and Playa las Cuevas connect to each other via a passageway in the rocks.

We found Playa las Cuevas to be the most visually stunning beach in Sayulita. A little gem, the wild and isolated beach lies hidden between rock formations and studded with weathered boulders.

As with Playa Malpaso, Dan and I didn’t see anyone else at the beach when we visited Playa las Cuevas. And considering the beautiful beach’s proximity to Sayulita’s main stretch of sand, I found the solitude to be quite surprising.

The shore break at Playa las Cuevas can be intense, so the beach is not recommended for swimming.

Carricitos Beach

With crashing waves, a dazzling crescent of golden sand, and Cerro Mono in the distance, Playa Carricitos is certainly among the most picturesque beaches in Sayulita. Backed with greenery and isolated from the crowds, it still feels somewhat untouched. There are some large homes position behind Playa Carricitos, but most are well hidden in the verdant hills above the water.

To reach Carricitos Beach, we walked from downtown Sayulita, along Avenida Niños Heroes. The trip took us roughly half an hour on foot.

As with Playa Malpaso and Playa las Cuevas, the extra hike from town seemed to ward off other tourists—making the already manageable jungle trek all the more worthwhile.

Playa Carricitos was empty when we visited. Save for a brown Pelican that was sunning itself on the rocks and diving for fish, we found ourselves completely alone amongst the beach’s sand and surf.

Use extreme caution swimming at Playa Carricitos, as its waves can be quite powerful.

Playa de los Muertos, Sayulita

A short ten minute walk to the south of Sayulita’s main Beach, Playa de los Muertos is one of Nayarit’s most popular swimming areas. At the beach, you’ll find umbrellas to rent, a small bar, and beach vendors.

Playa de los Muertos is popular with Mexican families. Huge rocks protect the waters of Playa de los Muertos on both sides and shield it from rough waves. Compared to the other beaches in Sayulita, it is considered safe for swimming.

Despite its haunting name, Playa de los Muertos (Beach of the dead in English) is not particularly dangerous. There is a cemetery adjacent to the beach’s parking area, which is how Playa de los Muertos gets its name.

San Pancho Beach near Sayulita

San Pancho Beach is a lively option along the Nayarit Riviera. While not as crowded as the main beach in Sayulita, it boasts a similar number of amenities. San Pancho attracts tourists that are looking for a quieter and more relaxed atmosphere. It is a magnet for artists, photographers, yogis, and surfers.

Between June and November, the San Pancho Turtle Rescue and Nursery releases turtle hatchlings on San Pancho Beach. When I first read about the release of turtles, I tried to squeeze it into our Sayulita itinerary. I’d seen baby turtles scamper toward the water in San Juan del Sur Nicaragua and wanted Elio to witness the spectacle.

But unfortunately, we visited San Pancho too early in the season.

• Beyond the Beach in San Pancho

I read somewhere that the small Nayarit beach town of San Pancho resembles the Sayulita of ten years ago.

And I can certainly see why.

The beachside fishing village has plenty of hotels and tourist amenities, but it still feels relaxed. Today, it is touristy without being overrun, laidback without being too sleepy. There are still lots of gringos, but the main beach is a bit quieter than that of Sayulita.

San Pancho is growing day by day, however. I fully expect it to turn into an expat hotspot in the coming years.

You can reach the beach in San Pancho via taxi or bus from Sayulita. We only visited the village as a day trip, though I immediately wished we could have stayed longer.

If you’re staying overnight in San Pancho, accommodations range from boutique guesthouses to lavish resorts. These include the Casa Cora (budget), Casa San Pancho (midrange) and the Agua de Luna Boutique Hotel (high end).

For a small town of around 3,000, San Pancho has some wonderful eateries too. We had delicious tuna tacos at Barracuda and Roman-style pizza at Pizza el Punto.

Aside from eating and beach-lounging, we enjoyed walking down the town’s colorful festive streets.

Lo De Marcos Beach

If San Pancho is the Sayulita of ten years ago, then Lo de Marcos is probably next in line for a makeover. I imagine that, as the tendrils of development spread northward from Puerto Vallarta, the sleepy fishing village will start to resemble San Pancho.

But—at least for now—Lo de Marcos and its wonderful golden beach are still able to bask in the beauty of relative anonymity.

The large sandy beach of Lo de Marcos has a few scattered developments and restaurants, but it retains a quiet charm. Verdant jungle backs much of the beach, giving it a lush and picturesque setting.

• Lo de Marcos Beyond the Beach

Lo de Marcos is a sleepy Mexican pueblito with a laid back vibe. The town is popular with expats and tourists, but it still manages to stay largely under the radar. Especially when compared to the more renowned destinations of Sayulita and Puerta Vallarta to the south.

Outside of its wide sandy beach, the streets of Lo de Marcos are mostly quiet. There aren’t many large glitzy hotels in the area, but you’ll find a few small guesthouses and B&Bs like the Casa del Sol and Casa Juanita.

For honeymoon magic, the the One & Only Mandarina looks like a dream.

Puerta Vallarta Beach

If you’re traveling by airplane, you’ll likely be landing in Puerta Vallarta—a lively and colorful beachfront city in the state of Xalisco.

Its frenetic and crowded beachfront offers a juxtaposition to the lonely stretches of sand near Sayulita.

The main beach in Puerta Vallarta is called Playa de los Muertos (not to be confused with a similarly named Sayulita beach). A boardwalk runs along the length of the beach and makes for a pleasant stroll.

We saw a lot of people swimming in the water at Playa de los Muertos, despite its ominous name.

• Beyond the Beach in Puerta Vallarta

Puerta Vallarta pleasantly surprised me. I’d imagined it to resemble the built up strips of Cancun and Cabo San Lucas. I thought I’d see rows and rows of all-inclusive resorts that cordon themselves off from the local population.

And while I’m sure that there are plenty of lavish all-inclusives in town, I was struck by the fact that Puerta Vallarta retains much of its character and charm.

We stayed at the Garlands del Rio in downtown Puerta Vallarta for one night during our visit to the area. The accommodation was clean, centrally located, and wonderfully artsy.

Where to Stay in Sayulita

During our week in Sayulita, we stayed at the Villas Chulavista. Our accommodation had two bedrooms, adjoined by a common area. The room setup allowed me and Dan to enjoy the evenings on our balcony after Elio fell asleep. We were very specific about our room preferences, which diminished our lodging options. But nonetheless, Villas Chulavista was wonderful. We enjoyed the small pool, the open-air living room, and views over the surrounding mountains. The hotel also came with a place to park our rental car (not something that is always easy to find in Sayulita).

Since our accommodation requirements were so specific, we discounted a lot of other places to stay in Sayulita. However, there are a number of other hotel and guesthouse options that could be more suitable for your own personal needs.

At the cheaper end of the spectrum, you’ll find Viajero Sayulita Hostel. Midrange options include Nuiya Hoteles Centro and the Mar y Sueños Suites.

Hotel Ysuri Sayulita and Hotel La Esquina both sit adjacent to Sayulita Beach, with easy access to the town’s amenities. These high end options each have a pool, large clean rooms, exceptional ratings, and ocean views.

Sayulita with a Toddler

Though it wasn’t initially on our radar, we found Sayulita to be a fantastic destination for kids. The town felt safe and walkable. The food was good and varied. And the easy access to beautiful sandy beaches meant that Elio was endlessly entertained.

We brought our backpack carrier so that we could more easily bring Elio to some of the farther beaches and nap him on the go. We found little use for a travel stroller in town, since the hilly streets are covered in cobblestones.

When to Visit Sayulita

Sayulita’s mild climate makes it a year-round travel destination.

Generally, however, the best time to visit Sayulita is between November and March. During these winter months, you’ll likely experience plenty of sunshine and low humidity.

If you want to avoid the crowds, you may want to consider traveling to Sayulita in the off-season.

We visited in May. And while the weather was indeed hot and sticky, we didn’t mind. The empty beaches and lower prices more than made up for the elevated temperatures.

****

We might not have originally intended to visit Sayulita, but you won’t hear me complaining that it’s where we ended up.

The hippie gringo town has a tranquil vibe and sunny disposition. It manages to attract expats and digital nomads, while eschewing overdevelopment and mass tourism.

We spent a glorious week in Sayulita, digging our toes in the sand and hiking to unspoiled beaches. It was the perfect place to travel with a toddler.

In my book, our wonderful trip was all proof that—even though we originally intended for something different —we ended up right where we were meant to be.

The post Best Beaches in Sayulita, Mexico appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Xochimilco is an oasis of tranquility in one of the world’s largest and most congested cities.

The green lungs of Mexico’s smog-choked capital, its canals and waterways are the final vestiges of a vast lake system that once flooded the Anahuac Valley.

The maze-like wetland and its floating farms are inextricably linked to the rise of Mexico City.

And still today, they are vital to the function of the modern metropolis.

The area is home to a diverse array of plants and animals, while providing food for Mexico City’s ever-expanding farm-to-table culinary scene.

The Canals of Xochimilco Mexico

Xochimilco is best known as a place where tourists drink cocktails while drifting through Aztec-era canals in colorful wooden boats called “trajineras.”

Dubbed “the Venice of Mexico,” it is home to a system of canals that preserves a pre-Hispanic method of agriculture and farming.

Xochimilco became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987, alongside the Templo Mayor in downtown Mexico City. Its waterways are home to hundreds of migratory and native bird species.

With its colorful trajineras, abundant wildlife, and traditional floating gardens, a tour around the Xochimilco canals is a truly unforgettable Mexico City highlight.

A Brief History of Xochimilco Mexico

The history of Xochimilco runs much deeper than cocktails and party boats.

The artificial islands in Xochimilco date back to the 11th century. Though they are newer than the ancient ruins of Teotihuacán outside of Mexico City, they are nonetheless one of the area’s most important pre-Hispanic landmarks.

Historically, the Aztecs started building islands made from reclaimed land. They used the canals to transport their harvest. In doing so, they were able to grow enough crops to feed the entire population of their capital city, Tenochitlán.

When the Spanish arrived, they proceeded to drain many of the area’s lakes—eventually building a sprawling colonial city atop the largely dried-out lake bed.

That colonial settlement, now known as Mexico City, was founded upon the original ruins of Tenochitlán. It has grown into the fifth largest metropolis on Earth.

Meanwhile, the vast lake is now only a shadow of its former self.

However, its working farms continue to sustain the modern city like they have done over the centuries.

The Chinampas

In the Náhuatl language, Xochimilco means “flower field.” Its name comes from the artificial floating gardens, called “chinampas” that cover the remaining wetlands of Lake Xochimilco.

The process of building chinampas allowed the Aztecs to reclaimed arable earth from an area that was once unconducive to farming.

With its network of canals and artificial islands, Xochimilco illustrates the ways in which the central Mexico’s pre-Hispanic inhabitants were able to build a thriving civilization atop water.

The chinampas of Xochimilco consist of  layer upon layer of human-engineered “rafts.”  When the first layer of rafts began sinking, farmers tied another raft layer to the same location, in a continual cycle.

This process is still in use today.

(Thus, though the process has remained in place for centuries, the original Aztec-built chinampas now lie at the bottom of the lakebed).

Visiting the Canals of Xochimilco Mexico

Visiting the floating gardens of Xochimilco is one of the top things to do in Mexico City.

There are two main ways to experience the Aztec-era islands and canals: festive trajinera tours, and low-key canoe tours.

One experience allows you to learn more about the area’s history and biodiversity, while the other grants you an opportunity to revel in its lively atmosphere.

Either way, the floating gardens of Mexico City are a fascinating place to visit.

• Airbnb Experience Canal Tour

Instead of drifting down the main canal in a trajinera, Dan and I joined an AirBnb experience that would give us a more intimate and informational glimpse into the area.

The tour turned out to be an excellent choice.

Our morning tour of the Xochimilco canals included a canoe adventure through the gentle waterways, followed by lunch on a working farm. Throughout the tour, our guide explained the area’s history and pointed out its flora and fauna.

Led by a biologist-turned-guide who was passionate about preserving the world heritage site for future generations, the tour was truly a highlight of our Mexico City itinerary.

• Trajinera Tour in Xochimilco

Traveling through the Xochimilco canals on a trajinera gives you a completely different experience than the one I had.

Instead of listening to a soundtrack of chirping birds, you’ll float to the sound of Mariachi music. And instead of walking through rows of lettuce on a working farm, you’ll probably be throwing back a few coronas.

Before boarding your boat, you can buy soft drinks, beer and food from nearby vendors. You can also hire live music and entertainment to accompany you on your journey.

Since Trajineras are prohibited from traveling through the narrow channels of the chinampas, they are mostly relegated to the main canal.

Although you can pretty much take a trajinera ride anytime, the activity is particularly popular among locals on Sundays—something to consider depending on whether you are looking for a party or a tranquil escape.

• Visiting Xochimilco Independently

If you choose to travel to the Xochimilco canals independently, you should plan to arrive early to secure a boat. A trajinera ride costs around $500MX per hour, per boat.

Most trajineras seat as many as 20 people on wooden bench tables, so the adventure can be quite economical if you have a large group.

The Island of the Dolls (Isla de las Muñecas)

Aside from its maze of working farms, some people choose to visit the somewhat creepy Island of the Dolls in Xochimilco (known in Spanish as Isla de las Muñecas).

The placement of the dolls is the result of a tragedy that unfolded in the 1950s, when a man named Julian Barrera found the body of a drowned child in the canal. He was so troubled by the discovery, that he decided to hang the young girl’s doll in a tree. This gesture was meant to ward off evil spirits and acted as a sort of memorial for the child.

Over time, Barrera continued to adorn the island’s trees with dolls.

Despite its unsettling appearance, the doll-strewn island has become a tourist attraction in Xochimilco.

The Future of Xochimilco

The future of Xochimilco and its wildlife lies in the balance.

Eleven percent of Mexico’s biodiversity can be found in Xochimilco’s canals. The area is a wonderful destination for birdwatchers and wildlife-lovers.

During our tour of the waterways, we saw three types of herons, pelicans, gallinules, ibis’, and vermillion fly-catchers.

We also learned that its waters are home to snakes, tilapia, carp and axolotls—small salamanders that are endemic to the valley of Mexico.

Axolotl numbers have declined rapidly in recent decades. The revered amphibians now face critical endangerment due to the deterioration if their habitat.

While Lake Xochimilco now covers only a fraction of its Aztec-era surface area, its remaining waters face high levels of environmental degradation.

The once-pristine waters have become increasingly polluted over time, due in part to illegal island settlers dumping sewage into the canals.

In addition, groundwater pumping to meet the sprawling city’s insatiable demand for water has largely depleted the lakes’s aquifers. The Mexican government has resorted to pumping in water from a nearby water treatment plant in Cerro de la Estrella to maintain lake levels.

How to Get to Xochimilco

We took an Uber to get from Condesa to Xochimilco. The ride cost us about $10USD in total and took roughly 40 minutes.

If you prefer to navigate cities using public transportation, you can head to Taxqueña Station at the end of the blue line. From there, the green line will take you to the Xochimilco canals. The metro is relatively safe, just be aware of pickpockets and stay vigilant (like you would in any other major city around the world).

Metro tickets are quite cheap and will only set you back $5MXN per journey.

Many tours of Xochimilco include transport to and from the canals.

Where to Stay near Xochimilco

Staying near Xochimilco isn’t really necessary, since the canals are within striking distance of popular Mexico City neighborhoods—including Roma, Polanco, Condesa, and Centro.

Still, spending the night nearby grants you unparalleled access to Xochimilco in the early morning and evening.

Coyoacan, home to Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul, is one of the closest neighborhoods to Xochimilco. Top places to stay in Cayoacan include Villa Alfonsina (budget) and Casa Tuna (midrange).

Best Time of Day to Visit Xochimilco

The best time of day to visit the Xochimilco canals will depend on whom you ask. Are you looking to escape the crowds and enjoy a serene morning on the water? Are you hoping for a lively evening out with friends? Or are you a photographer seeking to capture the diverse bird life in the area?

We found that visiting the canals in the morning gave us the experience that we craved. We saw plenty of wildlife, escaped the heat, and experienced the serenity of floating through the canals in relative quiet.

If a party experience is what you’re looking for, you’ll want to visit on a Sunday afternoon.

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The canals of Xochimilco Mexico are much more than just an escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. They are a refuge for native plants and animals. An agricultural center that provides much of Mexico City’s fresh produce. A gathering spot for families and nature enthusiasts.

And a reminder of pre-Colombian ingenuity in the Americas.

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Before the rise of Mexico City, there was Teotihuacán.

Until its mysterious collapse in 600AD, the city of Teotihuacán was the heart and soul of Mesoamerica. At its zenith, it housed the largest and most advanced civilization on the North American continent.

When the Aztecs came across the abandoned complex of temples and pyramids in the 15th century, they couldn’t believe their eyes. They named it Teotihuacán, meaning “birthplace of the gods.”

A place this grand, they presumed, must have been central to the creation of the Universe.

Teotihuacán Ruins: An Overview

The once-thriving city of Teotihuacán was first developed around 100BC. At the time of its construction, it was an important center for culture, art, and history.

The city’s architects built according to a rigorous design plan, radiating out from a pyramid-adorned central plaza and promenade. Laid out on a geometrical grid, Teotihuacán featured a complex network of irrigation canals that drew water from the nearby San Juan River.

Though most notable for its towering pyramids, excavations reveal that the ancient city also contained a sprawling residential area.

Teotihuacán was a cosmopolitan center in its heyday. During its peak, it was the sixth most populous city in the world. Historians suggest that Teotihuacán once housed around 200,000 people.

By the seventh century AD, however, Teotihuacán’s original inhabitants mysteriously abandoned the city.

Who Built Teotihuacán?

The origin of Teotihuacán is up for debate, but its influence on the country’s psyche and identity remains undeniable.

Little is known about the people responsible for building this vast and unique city. Many assume that Teotihuacán was built by the Aztecs. Others attribute it to the Maya Civilization.

Until my most recent visit to the area, I too assumed that the Aztecs were the founders of Central Mexico’s largest and most important archaeological site.

But in truth, the Teotihuacán pyramids predate both the Mayans and the Aztecs.

The ethnicity of Teotihuacán’s inhabitants has been debated for centuries. Some scholars point to the Nahua, Otomi or Totonac. Others suggest the Toltecs.

And yet no one knows for sure who to credit with building the site’s extraordinary temples and pyramids.

Things to See in Teotihuacán

Teotihuacán’s ruins have achieved UNESCO World Heritage Site status, alongside the Aztec-built Templo Mayor and Xochimilco Canals in Mexico City.

There are numerous noteworthy places to see within the archaeological site of Teotihuacán—from mural-clad palaces to towering pyramids.

The site’s main places of interest surround the Avenue of the Dead. They include the Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon, the Palace of Quetzalpapálotl, the West Plaza, and the Pyramid of Quetzacoatl.

• Avenue of the Dead

The Avenue of the Dead (Calle de los Muertos) runs through the heart of Teotihuacán, linking the area’s main places of interest.

A grand promenade, it leads directly to the front steps of the iconic Pyramid of the Moon. At its southern end, you’ll find the Pyramid of Quetzacoatl and the Teotihuacán Museum.

The Aztecs, who arrived at the site long after the departure of Teotihuacán’s original inhabitants, named the avenue after what they believed were burial sites. Historians now concur that the low-lying buildings were probably residences.

Walking the entire Avenue of the Dead is a top thing to do when visiting the Teotihuacán pyramids. The avenue is 2.5 miles long and is entirely exposed to the sun. Be sure to lather up with sunscreen before exploring the area.

• Teotihuacán Pyramid of the Sun

The Pyramid of the Sun dates back to 100 AD. It is one of the largest structures of its type in the Western Hemisphere (though it is only half the height of the Great Pyramid in Giza). The massive structure rises 216 feet above ground and measures approximately 720 by 760 feet at its base.  It contains about one million cubic yards of compacted volcanic rocks.

The Pyramid of the Sun’s purpose remains largely a matter of conjecture. Archaeologists believe that there was once a temple atop the pyramid, which suggests it could have been constructed for spiritual purposes.

Though I was able to climb the Pyramid of the Sun during my first visit to the area in 2003, the massive stone structure now remains cordoned off indefinitely.

• Pyramid of the Moon in Teotihuacán

Although smaller than the site’s famous Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon is just as iconic. It towers above the archeological site’s northern reaches, mimicking the outline of nearby Cerro Gordo.

The Pyramid of the Moon lies at the far northern end of the temple complex.

Historians allege that the ritual temple, dedicated to the deity of water, fertility, and creation, was once used for ceremonial purposes.

As with the Pyramid of the Sun, climbing atop the Pyramid of the Moon is currently forbidden.

• Palace of Quetzalpapálotl

To the west of the Pyramid of the Moon, you’ll find the excavated ruins of the Quetzalpapálotl Palace. The exquisite palace dates back to 450AD, though it appears to be constructed above older ruins.

The Palace of Quetzalpapaálotl’s name comes from the reliefs of mythological birds engraved on its square courtyard pillars. With its murals and ornate carvings, the structure stands out as an architectural masterpiece. It illustrates the level of artistic ability developed in the pre-Hispanic world.

The palace is, without a doubt, the best-preserved building in Teotihuacán. Between 2009 and 2011, Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History painstakingly restored Quetzalpapálotl’s murals.

The exact role of the Quetzalpapálotl Palace is unclear, but some think that it could have been home to a high-ranking priest, given its location.

• Puma Mural

Archaeologists first discovered Teotihuacán’s Puma Mural in 1963. The ancient art installation lies on the the east side of the Avenue of the Dead. It is part of a group of platforms and temples known as the Puma Complex.

The mural can be found en-route to the Pyramid of the Moon, behind a protective layer of glass.

• West Plaza Complex

The West Plaza Complex is not one of Teotihuacán’s main attractions. As a result, I didn’t find a lot of information on the oft-overlooked area.

At the West Plaza Complex, a ruined platform boasts reliefs of jaguar heads along its staircase.

Below, two serpent heads with forked tongues adorn a lower set of stairs. The stone heads are covered in pink stucco.

The West Plaza Complex’s unique multi-layered ruins are worth exploring as you make your way down the Avenue of the Dead.

• Pyramid of Quetzacoatl

Along the southern part of the Avenue of the Dead, you’ll find a large square courtyard known as the Citadel. Within it, stands the splendid Pyramid of Quetzalcóatl (Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent).

Though not as grand as the pyramids of the Sun and Moon, the Pyramid of Quetzacoatl is no less impressive.

The temple gets its name from the carved heads that adorn its façade.

The staircase that ascends the Pyramid of Quetzacoatl is strictly off-limits. As with the other Teotihuacán Pyramids, recent preservation efforts have sought to minimize the negative impact of tourism in the area.

However, a tiered platform stands directly in front of the Quetzacoatle Pyramid. You can climb up its stairs for outstanding eye-level views of the pyramid and its statues.

• The Teotihuacán Museum

The small Teotihuacán Museum offers insight into the area’s history and archaeology.

It contains artifacts uncovered at the site, as well as models demonstrating how the city looked in centuries past.

If you have time to visit during your Mexico City day trip, it is worth stopping in for a look.

That being said, if you’re pressed for time, I would prioritize the site itself.

Places to Stay near the Teotihuacán Pyramids

Though most people visit the ancient ruins as a day trip from Mexico City, you can choose to spend the night in nearby San Juan Teotihuacán for unparalleled access to the archaeological site.

Staying overnight allows you to visit the pyramids early, before the crowds.

Top places to stay nearby include El Sueño de Quetzacoatl (budget) Hotel Boutique Rancho San Juan Teotihuacán (midrange) and Hotel Quinto Sol (higher end).

Getting to Teotihuacán from Mexico City

While organized tours of Teotihuacán are plentiful, it is relatively easy to catch a public bus to the ruins. During the day, hourly buses link Teotihuacán with Mexico City’s Terminal Norte. One-way tickets cost M$52. The trip lasts roughly an hour.

Alternatively, if you’re pressed for time, Uber is a relatively inexpensive option.

Teotihuacán Tours

If you’re someone who prefers leaving logistical details to others, visiting Teotihuacán as part of an organized tour can be especially attractive.

Tours offer ways of exploring the ruins from a different vantage point. You can book hot air balloon tours of Teotihuacán to see the complex from above, or early access tours to view the pyramids without large crowds.

Most tours of the area include roundtrip transport from Mexico City. Some Teotihuacán tours also bring you tequila tasting and to the Basilica of Guadaloupe.

Teotihuacán Pyramid Hours and Entrance Fees

The cost of visiting Teotihuacán is relatively cheap. Admission to the site costs 80 MXN (US$4) for adults and is free for children under 13 years old. The entrance fee covers the Teotihuacán Museum, in addition to the entire archeological complex.

The Teotihuacán archaeological zone opens daily at 9am and closes at 5pm.

When to Visit Teotihuacán

The best months to travel to Teotihuacán are November through to May, when central Mexico experiences cooler temperatures and minimal rainfall. Summer is humid and characterized by abundant precipitation. It is probably the worst time to visit the pyramids.

In truth, though, the ruins are great to visit year-round. Just be sure to bring lots of sunscreen, as they are totally exposed to the elements.

***

Though Teotihuacán’s significance is undeniable, the city does not easily leak its secrets.

Despite extensive research, nobody knows for sure about the identity of its builders, or the language they spoke, or the way they organized their government. Teotihuacán’s origins, history, and culture remain largely up for debate.

Among all the mystery surrounding the site, however, there’s one thing I know for sure:

Visiting the Teotihuacán Pyaramids should be an absolute priority when traveling to Mexico City.

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Seemingly out of nowhere, Mexico City has become one of the world’s hottest travel destinations. The sprawling modern metropolis (also lovingly abbreviated to CDMX for Cuidad de Mexico) is a burgeoning magnet for lovers of food, culture, history, and architecture.

It is congested yet lively, chaotic yet beautiful. It is a city for city people. A place where you’ll find some of the best cultural, architectural and gastronomical attractions not only in Mexico, but in all of North America.

Things to Do with Two Days in Mexico City

While many travelers associate Mexico with the tourist resorts in Cancun, the beaches near Puerta Vallarta, and the parties in Cabo San Lucas, the massive capital city is the country’s beating heart.

Mexico City is huge. It is the fifth largest urban area in the world after Tokyo, New Delhi, Shanghai, and Sao Paulo. Mexico’s undisputed center of gravity, it is traffic-logged and vibrant and bursting at the seams.

Whether you want to visit museums, eat your weight in tacos, or do a historical deep dive into pre-Columbian cultures, CDMX has a little bit of something for everyone.

Day 1: The Essentials

Crafting the best two day Mexico City itinerary ultimately depends on your interests. The thriving urban center has a lot going on. And narrowing down a list of top things to do for a weekend visit can be tough.

But in my opinion, the city’s two top must-sees are the Teotihuacan Pyramids and the Centro Histórico.

So my suggested Mexico City itinerary starts there, and peppers in other tourist attractions on the following day.

Teotihuacán Ruins

The ruins of Teotihuacán lie just beyond the outskirts of CDMX. They are among the most impressive archaeological sites in the Americas.

You might wonder why I suggest venturing out of Mexico City so soon after your arrival. After all, the city itself contains more landmarks and attractions than you can possibly fit into a two day itinerary.

But while many Mexico City weekend itineraries skip the pyramids and focus on sites within town, I consider the temple complex too monumental to skip.

Luckily, Teotihuacán’s ruins are located only an hour from Mexico City’s most popular neighborhoods, so they are quite easy to tour in half a day.

• Avenue of the Dead

The Avenue of the Dead runs through the heart of Teotihuacán, linking the Pyramid of the Moon with the striking Temple of Quetzacoatl (Temple of the Feathered Serpent). Flanked by twelve temple platforms, the grand avenue is 2.5 miles long.

On the eastern side of the avenue, towering above the rest of the complex, sits Teotihuacán’s most impressive monument: the awe-inspiring, 248-stepped Pyramid of the Sun.

The Avenue of the Dead is entirely exposed, so be sure to lather up with sunscreen before strolling down its promenade.

• Pyramid of the Sun

The Pyramid of the Sun dates back to 100 AD and is one of the largest structures of its type in the Western Hemisphere. It dominates central Teotihuacán, as if standing guard over the archeological site’s main drag.

The massive structure rises 216 feet above ground and measures approximately 720 by 760 feet at its base.

• Pyramid of the Moon

The Pyramid of the Moon lies at the northern end of Teotihuacán.

Although smaller than the site’s famous Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon is just as iconic. It stands sentinel over the archeological site, mimicking the outline of Cerro Gordo to its north.

The ritual temple,  dedicated to the deity of water, fertility, and creation, was once allegedly used for ceremonial purposes.

• Additional Sites in Teotihuacán

Teotihuacán houses a number of noteworthy archeological sites that are often overshadowed by its two largest pyramids.  The beautifully frescoed Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl is among the area’s other top attractions.

Be sure to also spend a bit of time exploring the Temple of Quetzacoatl that lies opposite the site’s museum and main entrance.

Getting to Teotihuacán from Mexico City

During daylight hours, frequent buses link Teotihuacán with Mexico City’s Terminal Norte. One-way tickets cost M$52. The trip lasts roughly an hour.

Alternatively, if you’re pressed for time, Uber is a quick and reasonably-priced option.

The Historical Center (Centro Histórico)

The historical center of Mexico City boasts the area’s largest concentration of tourist attractions. It is the best place to go to experience the grand scale and immense cultural wealth of CDMX.

Centered around the Zocalo and sitting firmly atop the former capital of the Aztec Empire, the Centro Histórico is the sinking axis upon which the modern city revolves.

The center of Mexico City is home to ancient Aztec ruins, palaces, plazas, museums, parks, and one of the oldest and grandest Catholic cathedrals in the Americas.

The Zocalo

Mexico City’s enormous main square—known as the Zocalo—anchors many of the city’s top attractions. Measuring 220m from north to south, and 240m from east to west, it’s one of the world’s largest city squares.

The square borders the 16th century Metropolitan Cathedral on its northern perimeter and the Palacio Nacional to the east.

On a previous visit to Mexico City, I recall the Zocalo being a beehive of activity.

During my most recent visit, however, the entire area was cordoned off to prepare for Constitution Day festivities.

Templo Mayor

The Templo Mayor was the main temple of the Aztecs in their capital city of Tenochtitlan, which is now Mexico City. It once rose from the ground where the Metropolitan Cathedral stands today.

In Aztec belief, Tenochitlan’s grand temple signified the center of the universe.

Electrical workers rediscovered the ruins in 1978, after they happened across a massive carving of the Aztec goddess Coyolxauhqui.

Subsequent excavations uncovered other artifacts that now reside in the city’s fabulous Anthropology Museum.

The Templo Mayor entrance lies to the east of the cathedral. Access to its walkways and museum costs $75MX.

However, from boardwalks above the ruins, it is possible to see much of Templo Mayor’s exterior without entering.

Mexico City Cathedral

The Centro Histórico’s monumental cathedral is one of the most renowned attractions in Mexico City.

In a show of domination, the conquistadors ordered the cathedral built atop the Aztec Templo Mayor. Stones from the temple were repurposed for the cathedral’s walls.

The Metropolitan Cathedral was commissioned in 1573 and took 240 years to complete. As a result of its lengthy construction process, the cathedral’s aesthetic contains a full spectrum of architectural styles.

Today, the cathedral appears to be melting into the ground. Because of its construction on top of pre-Hispanic structures (which were themselves built upon soft ground) the Metropolitan Cathedral has been slowly sinking for centuries.

The gradual compression of earth gives the cathedral and many of its surrounding buildings a characteristic lean.

Palacio Nacional

The Palacio Nacional lies at the north end of the Zocalo.  A presidential residence, the building has been the seat of government since the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century.

The National Palace houses famous Diego Rivera murals that depict Mexican civilization from the arrival of Quetzalcóatl to the post-revolutionary period.

The nine murals covering the north and east walls of the palace’s first floor chronicle indigenous life before the Spanish conquest.

Diego Rivera’s murals are among the top things to see in Mexico City.

Admission to the Palacio Nacional is free, though you’re required to bring a passport and show your ID.

Unfortunately, the National Palace was closed during our visit.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes is a neoclassical and art nouveau masterpiece designed by Italian architect Adamo Boari. It lies at the eastern edge of the Alameda Central, Mexico City’s oldest municipal park.

Construction of Bellas Artes took decades to complete, in part thanks to the area’s spongey subsoil. As with many other buildings around the city’s core, the palace’s marble exterior began sinking into the ground after construction.

Architect Federico Mariscal eventually finished the interior in the 1930s, utilizing the more modern art deco style. With art nouveau on the outside and art deco on the inside, the Palacio de Bellas Artes is considered one of the most spectacular 20th century buildings in the Americas.

Bellas Artes features murals by Diego Rivera and Jose Clemente Orozco, among others. It is also home to the National Museum of Architecture and the National Theater.

Entrance to the palace’s lobby is free, while access to its exhibits costs $70MX.

Day 2: Museums and Waterways

With only two days in Mexico City, you’ll have to make some tough choices. There are simply too many things to pack into a short weekend itinerary.

Dan and I wanted to focus on the city’s ancient history, so we chose to divide our time between the Xochimilco Canals and the incredible Museum of Anthropology.

If your interests lie elsewhere, you might want to focus on the Diego Rivera murals, the Frida Kahlo Museum, or the Luis Barragan houses instead.

All are good choices. You really can’t go wrong.

Xochimilco Floating Gardens

Xochimilco, dubbed “the Venice of Mexico,” is a Unesco World Heritage Site that preserves a pre-Hispanic method of agriculture and farming.

With its colorful trajineras (tourist boats) and its traditional floating gardens called chinampas, a tour around the Xochimilco Canals is truly unforgettable.

If you have three days in Mexico City, you can easily combine a visit to the Xochimilco Canals with stops at Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul and the nearby Cayoacan neighborhood.

The Chinampas

Xochimilco is central to the history of Mexico City. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the agricultural area dates back to Aztec times. Its characteristic human-engineered floating farms, first constructed in the 1300s and still in use today, have been preserved in an exceptional manner.

Historically, Xochimilco was a lake where the Aztecs started building manmade chinampas (artificial fields) for agricultural purposes. These chinampas consist of layered manmade “rafts.”  When a raft began to sink, farmers tied another layer on to the same location, in a continual cycle.

With its network of canals and artificial islands, Xochimilco illustrates the ways in which the Aztecs were able to build a thriving civilization atop wetlands.

While most people choose to visit Xochimilco on colorful party boats called “trajineras”, Dan and I joined an AirBnb experience that gave us a more intimate glimpse into the area.

Our morning tour of the Xochimilco Canals included a canoe adventure through the gentle waterways, followed by lunch on a working farm. It allowed us to explore areas of the World Heritage Site that are only accessible by small boat (trajineras must stick to the main canal).

Led by a biologist-turned-guide who was passionate about preserving the site for future generations, the tour was truly a highlight of our Mexico City itinerary.

Museum of Anthropology

Visiting Mexico City without setting foot in the Museum of Anthopology is like traveling to Cairo and skipping the Egyptian Museum. Or visiting Athens and bypassing the Acropolis Museum.

Unless you’re really not a museum person, I highly suggest you carve out some time to learn about Mexico’s history from past to present.

The Museum of Anthropology stands at the edge of Chapultepec Park. It houses some of the country’s most precious relics and offers an unparalleled opportunity to learn about Mesoamerican civilization.

The museum’s twelve ground-floor halls are dedicated to pre-Hispanic Mexico, while upper-level rooms showcase the country’s contemporary civilization.

The vast museum offers more than most people can absorb in a single visit.

But with a few hours to explore, we—like most visitors to the museum—focused on the Teotihuacan, Aztec and Maya exhibits.

In a clearing near the entrance to the museum, you’ll be able to watch indigenous Totonac people perform their spectacular voladores rite for tips.

Chapultepec Park

Mexico City’s Chapultepec Park is the largest and oldest urban park in Latin America. For centuries, it has served as a refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city.

At the park’s eastern entrance, the stately Chapultepec Castle stands as a visual reminder of the city’s aristocracy.

The park is a huge green oasis. In addition to a castle, it contains nine museums, a zoo, an amusement park, a small lake, and a network of walking trails.

The park is a tranquil escape from the city’s chaos and congestion and a great place to spend a sunny afternoon.

Mexico City’s Neighborhoods

While many of the top things to do in Mexico City lie scattered about the massive urban area, some of its best neighborhoods are located one after another, in close succession. These neighborhoods—Condesa, Roma, and Polanco—are trendy, safe, and aesthetically beautiful. They have thriving nightlife, overflow with tasty eateries, and house many of the city’s top hotels.

Condesa

Among the most fashionable neighborhoods in CDMX, Condesa attracts locals and travelers with its pretty tree-lined avenues and chic hangouts.

The area boasts a cosmopolitan vibe with beautiful parks, designer boutiques, fantastic gastronomy offerings, and a vibrant nightlife. It is little wonder why many travelers choose to use Condesa as their base when traveling around the Mexican capital.

Roma

Slightly grittier yet still chic, Roma Norte lies near Condesa and the Centro Historico. The area—full of trendy cafes, outdoor eateries and plenty of street art—is quickly becoming one of Mexico City’s coolest neighborhoods.

Colorful Roma is the hipster heart of Mexico City. It is the perfect place to stay if you’re looking to enjoy close proximity to many of Mexico City’s biggest attractions.

Polanco

A wealthy residential neighborhood northwest of downtown, Polanco was originally built up in the 1930s.

Today, the upscale neighborhood is best known for its art galleries, luxury shopping malls, and high-end dining. Many of the top restaurants in Mexico City can be found in Polanco.

The day we got into town, we ate at Entremar and had a fantastic seafood dinner. Aside from a short walk through the neighborhood in the evening, however, we didn’t get much of a chance to explore.

Additional Things to Do in Mexico City

Though I enjoyed two jam-packed days of sightseeing in Mexico City, I had nowhere near the adequate amount of time to explore all of the city’s top attractions.

With additional days, the Frida Kahlo House and the Luis Barragan Houses would have been my top priorities.

• Frida Kahlo House

Museo Frida Kahlo is a historic house and art museum dedicated to the life and works of Mexico’s most iconic artist. Located within Kahlo’s birthplace, the cerulean blue house contains artifacts and artwork throughout its rooms. The house itself, however, is maintained to look much like it did in the 1950s.

Tickets to the Frida Kahlo House cost $250MX Monday-Friday and $270MX on the weekends. You can buy tickets either at the museum or online in advance.

I’ve heard that the line can be quite long if you choose to purchase tickets on arrival, however.

• Luis Barragan Houses

Casa Luis Barragán, built in 1948, represents one of Latin America’s most noteworthy examples of contemporary architecture. Inscribed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2004, it is the only individual property in Latin America to have achieved such an honor.

Since I couldn’t secure tickets in time, I didn’t visit the interior of Casa Barragán.

However, on my next trip to Mexico City, visiting the Barragán House will be at the top of my to-do list.

In addition to Casa Barragán, the famous architect has designed a handful of other properties around the city. These include Casa Gilardi, Casa Ortega, Cuadra San Cristobal, Casa Pedregal, and the Chapel and Convent of the Capuchinas Sacramentarias.

If you plan on visiting any of the Luis Barragán properties, be sure to reserve your tickets in advance.

Best Places to Stay in Mexico City

During our trip to Mexico City, Dan and I stayed in Condesa, at the LaiLa Hotel. Though not as trendy or artsy as some of the other boutique offerings in town, the hotel was clean, centrally located, and affordable.

Backpackers and solo travelers can find cheap dorm beds at the funky Hostel Home in Roma. Viajero CDMX in the Zona Central is another option that won’t break the bank and offers private rooms.

At a mid-range price point, the Red Tree House and Casa Mali by Dominion both have clean stylish rooms and fantastic locations in Condesa.

Casa Luciana receives rave reviews as well. It has a relaxing garden and beautifully appointed rooms.

In the upscale Polanco neighborhood, you’ll find some of the city’s more luxurious offerings. Las Alcobas Luxury Hotel boasts a spa, spacious rooms, and terrace views. It is among the best hotels in Mexico City.

Getting Around Mexico City

To get around CDMX, we relied on a mixture of Uber and our own two feet.

Uber is ubiquitous in Mexico City. If you’re pressed for time, it provides a great way of getting from place to place. Most Uber rides within the city cost us less than $10. Even getting from Condesa to the Teotihuacan Pyramids only set us back around $20.

Taxis are another relatively hassle-free way of getting around, though they cost a little more than rideshares.

If you’re sticking to a tight budget or have extra time to spare, you can get to most touristy place in Mexico City using public transportation.  Mexico City’s subway system is cheap, clean, and fairly safe.

Safety in Mexico City

By and large, people have the wrong idea about Mexico City. For many, the name alone summons two words: crime and pollution.

As with many big cities, your level of risk will depend on the areas you visit. If you stick to the popular neighborhoods and keep aware of your surroundings, chances are that you’ll be fine.

Polanco, Condesa, and Roma are the safest neighborhoods in Mexico City. Centro is still safe, but the high concentration of tourists makes pickpockets a bigger threat.

In general, if you want to avoid the areas with the highest crime rates, you’ll want to steer clear of Tepito, Doctores, Ciudad Neza, and Iztapalapa.

When to Visit Mexico City

Mexico City is a year-round destination with mild weather. The best time to visit Mexico City is in the springtime, between March and May. Springtime brings beautiful weather and sunny skies. Daytime temperature typically hover around the high 70s.

Summer is the rainiest time to visit Mexico City, while winter is the chilliest. Though not as ideal as springtime, both times of year are perfectly suitable for travel. You may encounter reduced rates, too.

We visited Mexico City for a weekend in February and encountered near-perfect weather.

Mexico City Food Scene

Mexico City is a foodie heaven. Whether you’re dining at a Michelin restaurant or grabbing a quick bite at a neighborhood taco stand, you don’t have to look far to find delicious eats.

The food on our trip to Mexico City was phenomenal from start to finish.

On the day we arrived, we ate at Entremar (a sister restaurant to the more famous Contramar). Entremar’s menu is the same as that of Contramar. Its tuna tostadas are simply divine.

Other famous restaurants in Mexico City include Pujol (ranked perpetually among the top 50 eateries worldwide) and Quintonil (a high-end spot with some of the best food in the country). I personally didn’t have the chance to eat at either.

Mexico City isn’t all about fancy food though. Make sure you save room in your stomach for al pastor street tacos. And churros from Churreria El Morro. And pretty much everything else you can get your hands on.

*****

Mexico City is having a moment in the spotlight. In recent years it has become a magnet for lovers of culture and history.

If you don’t let its reputation for crime and pollution scare you away, the sprawling metropolis is sure to win you over. It is alive and thriving—with pulsing energy, world-class architecture, ancient history, and tantalizing food.

With only a weekend to explore CDMX, try to soak in all there is to see.

But I’ll warn you in advance: there’s so much to do in Mexico City that you’ll probably want to plan a return visit within minutes of leaving.

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Baja California Sur, often called “Baja Sur,” is a sun-drenched peninsula extending from Mexico’s western coast like a wayward thumb. This narrow Mexican state occupies the southern half of the Baja California Peninsula. It is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, where the desert meets the sea.

From the cactus-studded Sierra de la Laguna mountains to the crystal-clear waters of the Sea of Cortez, the region boasts stunning scenery, colorful Pueblos Mágicos, windswept beaches, and secluded bays.

Four Day Itinerary for Baja California Sur

I’ve visited Baja California on two separate trips, each focusing on the southern tip of the peninsula. The first trip consisted of a weekend in Cabo San Lucas with Dan’s family, while the second was a relaxing getaway in San José del Cabo with some friends from college.

On both occasions, we rented a car and left the resort areas in search of Baja’s lively cities and natural wonders.

When exploring new destinations, we prefer a mix of leisure and sightseeing. This four-day Baja Sur itinerary reflects that balance—showcasing both the region’s cultural highlights and scenic natural areas.

Day 1: Cabo San Lucas

Once a sleepy fishing village, Cabo San Lucas is now a booming resort town known for its all-inclusive accommodations, its raging parties and its stunning natural beauty. Located at the very southernmost tip of the peninsula, Cabo is a destination that attracts both luxury vacationers and rowdy spring breakers.

In general, Dan and I tend to avoid heavily commercialized destinations.

However, beyond the Americanized resorts and overpriced margaritas, Cabo has a wealth of places to explore.

• Lover’s Beach and Divorce Beach

Lover’s Beach and the adjacent Divorce Beach are picturesque stretches of sand nestled between the dramatic granite rock formations of Land’s End. Lover’s Beach, on the calmer Sea of Cortez side, features crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming and snorkeling.

In contrast, Divorce Beach, on the Pacific side, is known for its powerful waves and strikingly different character.

To reach the beaches, you can take a water taxi from Médano Beach or from the Cabo San Lucas Marina.

We visited Lover’s Beach early in the morning via water taxi, enjoying its golden sands in peaceful solitude before the influx of tourists. We admired the towering rock formations, the brilliant blue ocean, and the distant sight of whales spouting water on the horizon.

For a moment, alone on the shore, it was easy to forget we were just minutes away from one of Mexico’s most popular resort towns.

• Land’s End

Land’s End marks the dramatic meeting point of the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez. The rugged rock formations here, shaped by centuries of wind and tidal erosion, stand in sharp contrast to the polished waterfront of Cabo’s main beach.

The most iconic landmark at Land’s End is El Arco, a stunning natural rock arch that has become the symbol of Cabo San Lucas.

We booked a 45-minute boat tour of Land’s End that took us past sunbathing sea lions, towering rock spires, and the famous sea arch. As we cruised through the area, we kept a lookout for whales.

You can either visit the Land’s End formations by kayak, or as part of a motorboat tour.

Boat tours depart from the Cabo San Lucas Marina and provide up-close views of El Arco, rock spires, and sea lion colonies. Some tours include whale-watching, while others provide the opportunity to snorkel.

• Playa Médano

Playa Médano is a prototypical resort beach filled with sunbathing tourists, eyesore hotels and vendors selling tacky souvenirs, . Every few minutes, we encountered people trying to sell us bracelets, T-shirts, hair braiding, and photo opportunities with sombrero-wearing iguanas.

Though we tend to stray away from crowded hotel-lined beaches, we enjoyed cooling off in the water of Playa Médano and soaking up a bit of Vitamin D.

Stretching for over two miles along the Sea of Cortez, the popular beach in Cabo San Lucas has soft golden sand and clean clear water. It is a convenient environment for swimming, beach-lounging and water sports.

Day 2: San José del Cabo

San José del Cabo, located about 40 minutes northeast of Cabo San Lucas, offers a more laid-back and traditional experience compared to its lively neighbor. The town, home to Los Cabos International Airport, is a popular base for exploring the attractions of Baja California Sur.

While farther removed from the iconic attractions at Land’s End, the city showcases a good mix of quaint architecture, sweeping beaches, and wildlife retreats.

• Downtown San José del Cabo

The historic center of San José del Cabo boasts cobblestone streets and Spanish colonial architecture. Its streets are photogenic and colorful and chock-full of art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, and cozy cafés.

Mission San José del Cabo Church is the central feature of lively Plaza Mijares. Founded by Jesuit missionaries in 1730, the twin-spired church remains the heart of the town’s historic colonial center.

The large plaza is a gathering place for locals and tourists alike. It is particularly lively on Thursday evenings during the Art Walk—a weekly event held from November to June.

Radiating out from the plaza are photogenic streets lined colorful colonial buildings. These buildings house galleries, artisan boutiques, and souvenir shops.

• Estero San José

Had I not been staying at my friend’s timeshare that was practically adjacent to the San José Estuary, I probably would have never even known it existed. The estuary sits right up against the hotel zone in San José del Cabo, and is only a short walk from the city’s downtown.

The estuary’s wetlands provide an ecosystem that is unlike any other in Baja California Sur. It serves as an important stop along the the Pacific Flyway, hosting an array of migratory birds that travel between their breeding grounds in North America and their wintering grounds in Central and South America.

The estuary is formed by the confluence of freshwater from the Sierra de la Laguna mountains and the salty waters of the Sea of Cortez. More than 250 species of birds, including the endemic Belding’s yellowthroat, have been recorded in the area.

The estuary was declared a Natural Protected Area in 1994. It faces growing environmental challenges due to the unfettered urban development of San José del Cabo’s Hotel Zone. Hurricanes, too, have wreaked recent havoc on the ecosystem. Conservation efforts are ongoing to protect and restore the wetland, with local organizations seeking to strike a balance between tourism and ecological preservation.

While it is among the most important birding destinations in Baja, the estuary feels like an afterthought. Of the thousands of people who stay at the massive eyesore hotels on the strip, I wager that only a tiny fraction make their way to the freshwater oasis.

• Whale Watching

Spouting whales are a common sight in the sparkling Sea of Cortez.

Every year, from December to April, majestic humpback and gray whales migrate from the cold waters of the Arctic to the warm, sheltered breeding grounds of the Baja California Peninsula.

During my stay on the San José del Cabo strip, I saw whales nearly every time I looked out toward the horizon.

On multiple occasions, I could spot them breaching and spouting in the distance.

The whales seemed much more active than those that I had spotted during my trips to Juneau, South Georgia and Antarctica. I later learned that you are much more likely to see the whales actively breeching if you travel to their breeding grounds.

You can join whale-watching tours from San José del Cabo for up-close encounters with the majestic sea creatures.

Whale-watching tours are also popular excursions from Cabo San Lucas or La Paz if that better fits your Baja itinerary.

Day 3: Todos Santos

After two days exploring the beaches and cities of Los Cabos, I recommend heading north, to the small town of Todos Santos.

The drive to Todos Santos crosses Baja’s sun-kissed mountains. The surrounding landscape is a tapestry of earthy pinks and browns and oranges. Saguaro cactuses speckle the mountainsides, while the cobalt sea shimmers in the distance.

Todos Santos is an easy day trip from either Cabo San Lucas or San José del Cabo. It sits roughly an hour from each of the cities and an hour from La Paz.

Near Todos Santos, you’ll find a string of beautiful beaches along the Pacific Coast. These beaches boast spectacular sunsets, windswept sands and limited eyesore developments.

• Todos Santos

Todos Santos is a Pueblo Mágico (Magic Town) nestled among the cactus-dotted mountains of Baja California Sur.

The small community attracts a mix of fishermen, surfers and expat hippies. The dusty streets of its little downtown boast a clutch of sophisticated galleries, colonial buildings, farm-to-table restaurants, and upscale boutiques.

Beyond its picturesque streets, Todos Santos is steeped in history and culture. Originally founded as a mission in 1723, the town later flourished as a sugarcane hub, remnants of which can still be seen in its historic buildings.

Todos Santos has resisted the cookie-cutter developments that plague the landscapes nearby. In this picturesque and artsy community, it is easy to forget that Cabo San Lucas–with its cruise ships and partying tourists–sits only 50 kilometers to the south.

I don’t expect Todos Santos to escape the wave of development indefinitely, however. Resorts and condos are already springing up in the area, and encroaching on the miles and miles of windswept Pacific coastline.

• Playa Punta Lobos

Playa Punta Lobos, a long windswept beach just outside Todos Santos, boasts golden sand, rugged cliffs, and fiery sunsets.

The beach, named for a colony of sea lions, is clearly marked by an access sign on the highway at kilometer 54. An unpaved road leads through the arid terrain to a small parking area near the Hotel San Cristobal.

While the beach itself is not ideal for swimming due to strong currents, it is a fantastic spot for picnicking, walking, and photography.

The sweeping stretch of sand—framed by cliffs and a lighthouse—remains wild and scenic. Aside from the whitewashed Hotel San Cristobal, it lacks the large-scale development found elsewhere in Baja.

Local fishermen have been using Punta Lobos for decades as a launching point for fishing trips. A cluster of fishing boats sits at the southern end of the beach. Nearby, you’ll find a small chapel where the fishermen pray for a safe trip before setting off to sea.

• Playa Cerritos

Just a short drive down the Transpeninsular Highway from Todos Santos, you’ll find Playa Cerritos. The turnoff to the beach is at the top of a hill, near kilometer 66.

A beautiful, sweeping expanse of golden sand near Pescadero, the beach feels pristine compared to Playa Médano in Cabo. It reminded me of some of the golden sandy beaches near Sayulita, in Mexico’s Nayarit.

The crescent shores of Playa Cerrito are popular with surfers. The area is safe for swimming too, though it is important to use caution.

According to Dan’s cousin who lived in Baja a few years back, Playa Cerritos was once a remote outpost, accessible only by a potholed, dusty road.

Today, while it still offers a long and uninterrupted stretch of sand, developments have mushroomed up along its northern end.

As I marveled at Playa Cerritos’ untouched golden shores, I tried to imprint its image in my memory.

Next time I return, I imagine the place will likely be unrecognizable.

Day 4: La Paz and Around

There are plenty of things to do around Los Cabos, but if you don’t mind heading a little bit farther north, you’ll be rewarded with a truly paradisiacal slice of Baja.

La Paz and nearby Balandra Beach are located one hour north of Todos Santos, or two and a half hours from the San José del Cabo Airport.

The area can be visited as part of a Baja road trip, or as a day trip from one of the other towns on the peninsula.

Playa Balandra

Playa Balandra, a stunning crescent of pure white sand, is a jewel along the Sea of Cortez. With turquoise shallow waters and an undeveloped backdrop, it offers a tranquil setting despite its popularity with locals.

Because Playa Balandra is an ecological reserve, it retains an untouched charm that is absent in some other parts of Baja California Sur.

At low tide, the water of Playa Balandra gets so shallow that it exposes ribbons of sand—a beautiful sight from the panoramic viewpoint.

One of Balandra’s most iconic landmarks is the “Hongo de Balandra,” a mushroom-shaped rock formation that has become a popular photo spot.

Unlike more commercialized beaches, Balandra lacks large restaurants and hotels. The beach has a limited daily visitor capacity to prevent overcrowding.

There are two entry times: 8:00 AM to noon and 1:00 PM. to 5:00 PM. Capacity during each time slot cannot surpass 450 people, so I recommend you arrive early.

• Panoramic View of Balandra Beach

The panoramic viewpoint at Balandra Beach showcases two perfect crescents of white sand, a mangrove swamp, and the area’s undulating mountains.

To reach the viewpoint, follow the path on the right side of Balandra Beach, near the parking area.

Though Balandra Beach has strict time limits and wanting to enjoy its warm waters to the fullest extent is certainly understandable, the hike is well worthwhile.

Dan and I took turns soaking in the aerial views from the hilltop hike while the other parent stayed with Elio on the beach.

The views did not disappoint.

• La Paz Boardwalk

La Paz has a very distinct feel from the twin cities at the peninsula’s southern tip. Though I’m sure it has a sizeable expat community, the city does not feel as though it caters to gringos.

La Paz sits in a beautiful bay along the Sea of Cortez. Its lively malecón is a place where people gather each evening to stroll, exercise, and socialize.

We found the city’s boardwalk to be wonderfully family-friendly, with playgrounds, sandy beaches and statues lining its expanse.

With our evening in La Paz, we strolled the boardwalk, enjoyed a wonderful seafood dinner at a hole-in-the-wall restaurant, and admired the fiery sunset.

Things to Do with Extra Days

Baja California Sur is a Wonderland for beach bums and wildlife enthusiasts. Famous ocean explorer and conservationist Jacques Cousteau once dubbed the Sea of Cortez “the world’s aquarium” due to its thriving marine ecosystem.

So while I haven’t personally been on a wildlife-viewing day tour from La Paz, I’m confident in recommending the excursions to others.

• Day Trip to Isla Espíritu Santu

Isla Espíritu Santo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site off the coast of La Paz, is an uninhabited island known for its diverse wildlife and crystal-clear waters.

Island tours offer visitors the opportunity to snorkel with sea lions, spot whales and dolphins, kayak around secluded coves, and lounge on pristine white-sand beaches.

• Swimming with Whale Sharks

The waters off the coast of La Paz offer one of the world’s best opportunities for swimming with whale sharks. The gentle giants are especially plentiful in the Sea of Cortez between the months of November and April.

I would have loved to join a whale shark snorkeling tour, but with limited time and a toddler in tow, we tabled the experience for a future visit.

Where To Stay in Baja California Sur

The cities and towns in Baja Sur all have a distinctly different flair. Cabo San Lucas draws young party-seeking tourists, while San José del Cabo seems to draw a older, more laid back crowd. Meanwhile, Todos Santos and La Paz offer a more local feel, with less emphasis on all-inclusive resorts. Due to their proximity to one another, you can choose to stay in the city that fits your travel style and still visit all the places outlined in this four day Baja itinerary.

• Cabo San Lucas

Though Cabo San Lucas caters to resort-goers, its varied hotel and guesthouse options ensure that the city has something suitable for everyone—from families traveling to Cabo with kids, to longterm travelers backpacking Mexico and Central America.

Highly-rated options in Cabo include the Mayan Monkey Social Hotel (budget dorm-style) the adults-only Cabo Vista Hotel (midrange) and ME Cabo by Melia (luxury).

• San José del Cabo

Our friends have a timeshare at the Vidanta on San José del Cabo’s hotel strip. It is a gorgeous property with luxurious pools and beachfront views. And while it is admittedly not the kind of place that Dan and I choose to stay at when we travel, I could certainly see the appeal of staying at a 5 star resort on the strip.

For price-conscious travelers, the Desert Heart Hostel offers clean rooms downtown at an unbeatable price.

If you’re looking for a quieter all-inclusive escape away from the bustle of Cabo San Lucas, then you might want to consider the Hyatt Ziva Los Cabos, one of the best all-inclusive resorts in Mexico.

• Todos Santos

Dan and Elio and I stayed at the Todos Santos Hostel for a night during our time in Baja. The hostel has a chill vibe and shaded outdoor space with hammocks. It is a five minute walk from the historic center of Todos Santos and a fantastic option for people traveling Mexico on a budget.

Hotel Perro Surfero (midrange) and Todos Santos Boutique Hotel (high end) are other popular options.

• La Paz

We had a pleasant stay at La Concha Beach Hotel for one night during our visit to the La Paz area. We enjoyed the hotel’s pool, waterside location, and relaxed beach bar.

Options closer to downtown and the La Paz boardwalk include Pension Baja Paradise (budget), Hotel Casa Coronel (midrange) and Casa 1880 (high end).

Getting Around Baja California Sur

Dan and I rented a car from the Cabo Airport during both of our trips to the Baja Peninsula. Driving in Baja proved to be straightforward and convenient.

If renting a car is not an option, ABC Bus travels between Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos a few times a day. You’ll also find buses that connect Los Cabos Airport with La Paz.

Dan and I were shocked to learn that taxis to and from the airport to Cabo San Lucas cost upwards of $80.

As an alternative to taxis, the Ruta del Desierto Bus runs between Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo, and the airport’s Terminal 2. The bus is a great alternative for travelers who want to avoid paying for private shuttle or taxi service.

When to Visit Baja Sur

Peak travel season in Baja Sur falls during the Northern Hemisphere’s winter and spring, from December through April. In high season, whales are at their most active and the weather is generally sunny and warm.

The shoulder season (October, November, May, and June) can also be ideal due to warm, dry weather and lower prices.

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While many travel to Cabo for the parties, Dan and I were happy to find solitude on the Baja Peninsula.

Our two trips to Baja were proof that, despite the area’s association with oversized resorts and tourists throwing back tequila shots, you don’t have to travel far to encounter pristine, untouched nature.

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