Deep under the hills of Italy’s Marche region, you’ll find a subterranean world of delicate calcareous sculptures and fairytale spires.

This ethereal wonderland—known as the Frasassi Caves (or Grotte di Frasassi in Italian)—is one of Europe’s largest cave systems and a highlight of travel to Central Italy.

The Frasassi Caves are rich in whimsical formations. Gouged out by the Sentino River over the course of 150 million years, their sculpted chambers rival the most intricate on Earth.

THE GROTTE DI FRASASSI

The Grotte di Frasassi are located in the Marche Region of Italy, merely 15 minutes from my mom’s hometown of Fabriano.

The caves are an underrated hidden gem. And I’m not saying that because they are in the backyard of the area I played in every summer as a child.

The stalagmite-filled caves are truly incredible. Some of the best I’ve seen in all of my travels (they’re right up there with the Jeita Grotto in Lebanon).

The caves are the defining feature of the Gola di Frasassi—a steep gorge cut by the river.

The karst cave system includes the Cave of the River and the Big Cave of the Wind. Its full name in Italian is Grotta del Fiume–Grotta Grande del Vento di Frasassi.

Commonly, you’ll hear it referred to simply as Frasassi, or Le Grotte.

GEOLOGICAL HISTORY

The Frasassi Caves began forming millions of years ago, thanks to a mix of rainwater and erosion from the sulfurous Sentino River.

Rainwater trickled and seeped through tiny fractures in the limestone hills, gradually widening them. Where the water encountered horizontal fractures, it formed underground streams and excavated long tunnels with connecting caverns.

The mineral-rich waters dissolved the limestone and chiseled subterranean chambers over time.

The karst mountainsides surrounding the Frassassi Gorge conceal an abundance of caves and cavities.

While some of them have been known to the local population for centuries, the massive Frasassi Caves complex is a somewhat recent discovery.

DISCOVERY OF THE FRASASSI CAVES

Frasassi’s subterranean world first opened to the public in 1974, shortly after a group of Italian speleologists from Ancona discovered the caverns on accident.

One day, Maurizio Bolognini was hiking around Monte Frasassi, when he noticed an unusual hole in the mountain.

On a following visit, he and fellow mountaineers were able to dig a tunnel large enough to pass through the hole. Then, using a homemade rope ladder, they descended into the karst abyss.

FRASASSI CAVES TOUR ROUTE

The Frasassi Caves tourist route follows a 1.5 km path through Italy’s subterranean wonderland.

The tour begins in the cavernous Ancona Abyss—the largest cave in Europe. The abyss is so vast that it could easily house the entire Duomo of Milan. This is the place where Bolognini first descended by rope ladder, laying eyes on the 65ft tall stalagmites known as the Giants.

Walking through the Grotte’s dimly-lit underworld is like entering a fantasyland. The intricately-adorned chambers are brimming with calcareous formations. Stalagmites rise from the cave floor like melted candles, while stalactites hang from its ceiling like Spanish moss.

As you progress, you will visit several chambers within the cave system.

Each of these rooms boasts mineral masterpieces.

Noteworthy formations include Niagara Falls—a huge mass made of pure white calcite—and sculptures that resemble castles, bears, organ pipes, camels, and witches.

Toward the end of the tour, you’ll stop by the Hall of Candles—a visually stunning room that features small candle-like stalagmites reflected on glassy pools of water.

FRASASSI CAVES TOURS AND TICKETS

English-language tours of the Frasassi Caves depart at 11:40AM, 1:40PM and 3:40PM daily from mid-May to June. In July and August, there is an additional 5:15PM departure.

During the low season, tours are only in Italian, though English-language audioguides remain available.

The cost of visiting the Frasassi Caves is 18 euros per person.

Until recently, the Grotte di Frasassi didn’t allow personal photography.

As of my last visit, however, the policy seems to have changed.

SPELUNKING IN THE FRASASSI CAVES

Most people visit the Frasassi Caves as part of a standard guided tour.

But if you have an adventurous spirit, you can also choose from two spelunking excursions.

• SPELEO-ADVENTURE BLUE PATH: Aimed at people who are looking to get their feet wet with speleology, the blue path tour is of easy/medium difficulty. The two hour tour includes climbing, drifts, narrow passages and slides.
• SPELEO-ADVENTURE RED PATH: The red path caters to adventure-seekers who have some prior spelunking experience. The tour is three hours long and considered moderately difficult. It includes a rope climb.

Spelunking tours of the Frasassi Caves must be booked in advance. I imagine you’d want to avoid these excursions if you are claustrophobic or uneasy in tight spaces.

OTHER THINGS TO DO IN THE GOLA DELLA ROSSA

Frasassi lies along a beautiful river gorge. It is the centerpiece of the Gola della Rossa Regional Park—a wilderness area that boasts hiking trails, hot springs, historic temples, and picturesque towns.

If you’re a lover of off-the-beaten-path travel, you’ll find plenty of additional things to do in the area.

• TEMPLE OF VALADIER

The Temple of Valadier, commissioned by Pope Leo XII of Genga, was built in 1828. It lies inside a natural cavern in the Gola della Rossa Park, at the end of a 700 meter paved pathway.

The octagonal domed church was entirely built in travertine blocks. Its angular neo-classical silhouette stands in stark contrast to the cavern’s rough walls.

The chapel once housed a marble statue of the Madonna and child, produced by the studio of Antonio Canova.

Today, however, it has been replaced by a replica. Its original can be found in a museum in nearby Genga.

Next to the Valadier Temple is also the Hermitage of Santa Maria Infra Saxa. The small monastery dates back to 1029.

• SAN VITTORE TOWN

San Vittore is the closest town to the Frasassi Caves. It straddles the Sentino River, a few miles from the entrance to the natural monument.

The picturesque small town boasts a Roman bridge and a historic abbey. The abbey—San Vittore alle Chiuse—dates back to the 12th century and contains a mix of the Byzantine and Armenian styles.

In the town you’ll also find a small adventure park with suspended rope bridges and zip lines.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR THE FRASASSI CAVES

The accommodation options near Frasassi are a mix of hotels, agriturismos, and B&Bs. If you’re looking to stay within a few miles of the cave’s entrance, the Hotel le Grotte, the Hotel Terme di Frasassi and B&B Bivacco Frasassi are probably your best bets.

A little bit farther away, you’ll find a wider array of accommodation options.

If you’re looking for a tranquil countryside escape, the Agriturismo Valdifiore offers a rustic retreat with views of the surrounding mountains.

On a hill above Fabriano, La Castellaia boasts a resort-like setting, a swimming pool, and beautiful panoramas of the Apennines.

****

If it is your first time traveling to Italy, your itinerary probably consist of stops in Florence, Venice, and Rome. You might even include side trips to the Cinque Terre or the Amalfi Coast.

After all, most Italy travel itineraries (understandably) focus on the same well-trodden tourist routes.

But just a stone’s throw from the romantic hills of Tuscany, lies a beautiful corner of the country that is little-known outside of Italy.

I’ve been fortunate to visit the Marche year after year throughout my life.

And I want to share it with you, too.

Because I promise that if you travel to this beautiful corner of the world, you’ll be rewarded with some of Italy’s most underrated gems—both above-ground and concealed below the surface of its rolling green mountainsides.

The post Guide to the Frasassi Caves in Italy appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Set against the backdrop of the Italian Riviera’s dramatic coastline and overlooking the sapphire waters of the Ligurian Sea, the Cinque Terre have soared toward the top of Italy’s list of must-see attractions. The Cinque Terre are five idyllic fishing villages that fall within the boundaries of the Cinque Terre National Park. Thanks in large part to the proliferation of social media and travel blogs, the five heralded villages have become near-permanent fixtures on the Italian tourist trail.

And for good reason. The area is stunningly beautiful.

I remember visiting the Cinque Terre over a decade ago with my family. From that trip, I recall the villages as being relatively unknown to international tourists. But times have changed and now the Cinque Terre have made their way to the forefront of tourist itineraries. And after visiting the Cinque Terre this past summer and retracing my steps from town to town, I realize I can no longer call these villages sleepy. Nor can I say they are relatively undiscovered. Word is out and everyone, it seems, is trying to find their own little slice of paradise in these five quintessential Italian towns.

Cinque Terre Day Trip from Pisa

Ideally, the Cinque Terre are best visited at leisure. The picturesque villages deserve more than a passing glance. Yet, realistically, many travelers will end up visiting the Cinque Terre as a day trip due to lack of time and a high concentration of tourist attractions in the area. If possible, I would definitely recommend spending at least two days in the Cinque Terre. 

I visited the Cinque Terre as a day trip from Pisa during one of my layovers. I set out with two of my fellow crew members at 9:00am–merely minutes after landing in Italy and checking into the hotel. We bought tickets to La Spezia and then purchased a day pass that would grant us unlimited access to the trains and footpaths linking the five coastal towns.

With only one day to visit the Cinque Terre, we realized we would have to choose which towns to visit. We could have crammed in short visits to all five towns, but we wanted our itinerary to include a hike. In the end, we skipped Riomaggiore and Corniglia and focused our itinerary on Monterosso, Vernazza and Manarola.

Monterosso al Mare

We started our day trip to the Cinque Terre at Monterosso al Mare, the northernmost town along the coastal park. Known simply as Monterosso, it is the largest and most accessible town and has all the hallmarks of a typical Italian coastal resort– a string of sand, inviting waters and lines of rentable beach umbrellas. Unlike the other four villages, Monterosso can also be accessed by car.

Hike from Monterosso to Vernazza

From Monterosso, one can visit the other towns by either on foot or by train. Hiking between the Cinque Terre villages is one of the best ways of exploring the area. A scenic path follows the coastline and showcases some of the area’s most beautiful vistas. Despite the sweltering summer heat, we had decided to hike the trail from Monterosso to Vernazza so that we could savor the eye-catching ocean views.

The hike is moderately strenuous, with steep uphills and downhills. It meanders past idyllic mountaintop homes and oceanview vineyards, taking hikers through terraced landscapes with rows and rows of fruits and vegetables. At every bend, we were rewarded with spectacular views of the colorful towns and the deep blue waters below.

As we neared Vernazza, we could see the town’s jumble of vibrantly colored houses come into focus. The city’s postcard perfect setting invited us to take photos every chance we got. Its sparkling blue waters teasing and tormenting us in the noonday heat. We reached Vernazza after hiking about an hour and a half–exhausted from the sun and drenched in pools of sweat.

Vernazza

Vernazza is perhaps the most photographed town in the Cinque Terre, with its painted houses curving around a picturesque boat-filled harbor and its crumbling castle overlooking the town in quintessential Italian fashion. In 2011, terrible flooding wreaked havoc on Vernazza, burying the city’s streets in a layer of mud and covering its historic buildings in an avalanche of debris. Today, the city has rebounded and, were it not for the informational posters commemorating the natural disaster, I would have never known that one of Italy’s most famous villages was very nearly destroyed.

Four years have passed since the terrible floods and the town is now clean and perfectly manicured. It bustles with a mix of people from around the world. I witnessed local fishermen taking their boats out to sea, women hanging their laundry from the green-shuttered windows and tourists flooding the town’s narrow streets.

My companions and I ate gelato, drank cold beer and ogled at the pretty town and its colorful, freshly painted houses. I pinched myself to ensure that I was not dreaming and that this was all real–that I was given the opportunity to explore this vibrant seaside village while technically “at work.”

Then, I stripped down to my swimsuit, jumped into the water and let myself be enveloped by the cool and refreshing sea.

Manarola

If I had known any better, I would have likely waited until we reached Manarola before jumping in the water. Manarola–an idyllic mishmash of pastel houses overlooking the water–was the third and final stop on our Cinque Terre day trip. The town’s rocky waterfront contains a secluded area for swimmers that is speckled with large boulders perfect for diving and sunbathing.

I walked Manarola’s tangle of cobbled streets and made my way up the footpath and away from town in order to get postcard-worthy views of the cliffside houses. Many people consider Vernazza to be the crown jewel of the Cinque Terre and, while I agree that Vernazza is undeniably beautiful, I couldn’t help but wonder how the towns could be compared.

Each of the Cinque Terre’s five villages is distinct and worthy of visiting.

Regrettably, we did not have time to make it to Corniglia or Riomaggiore. Considering the fact that we chose to hike and swim, our day trip to the Cinque Terre would have been too rushed and hectic if we had included all five towns.

***

Similar in some ways to the Amalfi Coast, the Cinque Terre National Park has become a tourist favorite due to its quaint towns, and its dramatic coastal scenery. I was glad to see the villages much the way I remembered them–picturesque, colorful and unspoiled by large, towering hotels.

But the Cinque Terre are no longer sleepy fishing villages hugging a seductive stretch of unspoiled coastline. Today, though they still maintain their old-time charm and rugged surroundings, the villages are anything but quiet. Made famous in the past few years by travel shows, Internet blogs and word of mouth, tourism has skyrocketed. I could hardly walk without bumping into another traveler. I could hardly step foot on a train without getting pushed out the door. We were shoved, poked, tossed around and made to wait in excruciating lines to buy train tickets.

Simply put, the Cinque Terre are becoming overrun.

But would I return despite the crowds? Are the views worth the battle?

Without a doubt, my answer is an emphatic yes. And I know I’ll return if I have the chance. There is a reason so many people choose to keep visiting the Cinque Terre despite being prodded and pushed and made to wait in lines.

The five idyllic coastal towns are just too beautiful to miss.

The post Day Trip to the Cinque Terre appeared first on Erika's Travels .

“This was Venice, the flattering and suspect beauty – this city, half fairy tale and half tourist trap, in whose insalubrious air the arts once rankly and voluptuously blossomed”~Thomas Mann

Venice has always had a way of capturing the imagination. For centuries, the maze-like city of gondolas and canals has captivated artists, poets, writers and tourists with its uniqueness, its romance and its unparalleled charm.

It’s no wonder that nearly every country in the world claims to have a Venice of its own.

I first visited Venice in elementary school, when my mom and I met up with my friend Sophie and her family for a few days of exploring the labyrinthine city. We rode gondolas through the Grand Canal, meandered the charming, narrow streets and fed corn kernels to pigeons on San Marco’s Square. Like so many others, I fell in love with the city and dreamed that I would someday return.

So, as a flight attendant, I was thrilled the first time crew scheduling placed a Venice trip on my schedule. I looked forward to being able to see the city again through older and more experienced eyes.

VENICE: A CROWDED ROMANTIC CITY LIKE NO OTHER

Venice has always been regarded as one of the most beautiful cities on Earth. It is a city on nearly everyone’s Italy bucket list. And while places around the world are quick to compare themselves to Venice, there is no city that can quite compare. Venice’s wealth of attractions comes at a price however. And that price is over-tourism. There is no doubt that Venice can be crowded–especially in summer. 

After my first few trips to Venice as a flight attendant, the crowds began to weigh on me. I sometimes found myself focusing so much on the feat of swimming through the crowds, that I forgot to enjoy Venice’s hidden gems and breathtaking attractions. There were only so many times that I could fight the throngs of tourists for a glimpse of Venice’s canals and piazzas. On some layovers, I hardly left my hotel room (something I’m almost ashamed to admit). If I did leave my room, it would be in the evenings–when day trippers returned to their hotels in Mestre, cruise ship tourists vacated the city and Venice’s side streets became eerily quiet. 

One of my favorite cities in the world was becoming a place I started to avoid. So I changed up my routine and decided to take a day trip to the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello during one of my layovers in Venice.

DAY TRIP TO THE ISLANDS IN THE VENICE LAGOON

The Venice Lagoon is home to a handful of islands that make for a worthwhile day trip from Venice. These islands offer respite from the hoards of tourists that descend on Venice’s narrow streets each year. 

Murano, Burano, and Torcello are three of the most beautiful islands in the lagoon. They are easily accessible as a day trip, and offer numerous opportunities for shopping, sightseeing and photographing. 

For €20, I bought a full day hop-on-hop-off vaporetto pass and set out to explore some of the most beautiful islands of the Venice Lagoon.

MURANO: HOME OF THE WORLD-FAMOUS MURANO GLASS

The famous glass-blowing island of Murano was my first stop on my self-guided tour of the Venice Lagoon. From St Mark’s Square, the vaporetto line 42 travels directly to Murano before continuing to the other islands near Venice. 

Resembling a mini Venice with its waterways and canals, Murano consists of seven islands that are connected by bridges. Like Venice, Murano is best explored on foot, without a set itinerary. The island is small enough that it can be toured in a couple hours. Noteworthy things to see in Murano include the Palazzo da Mula, the Church of San Pietro Martire and the Museum of Glass. 

In the 15th and 16th centuries,  Murano flourished as Europe’s major glassmaking center. Today, shopping for Murano glass is one of the most popular activities in Murano and the island contains dozens of shops specializing in blown glass

In some shops, it is even possible to watch the artists at work.

BURANO: ONE OF THE MOST COLORFUL VILLAGES IN ITALY

From Murano, I hopped back on the vaporetto for a ride to the smaller and more colorful island of Burano. Located half an hour away from Murano, Burano is a photographer’s dream and an Instagrammer’s obsession. 

Burano is a popular day trip from Venice because of its cheerful and brightly colored houses. Legend has it that the island’s fishermen traditionally painted their houses in bright colors so that they would be able to keep sight of them while fishing in the lagoon. Today, the houses on the island represent nearly every color of the rainbow—royal purple, deep blue, bright yellow, lime green—and tourists meander down the canals, ogling at the picture-postcard views in every direction.

Lacemaking is to Burano what glassblowing is to Murano. The island’s residents have been experts at making intricate lace since the 1400s. Leonardo Da Vinci himself even used Burano lace in order to decorate the alter of Milan‘s famous Duomo.  

While Burano is a popular day trip from Venice, the island has some quiet canals and backstreets that are surprisingly tourist free. I was surprised to see that few people strayed from the main canal that cuts through town.

TORCELLO: A QUIET RESPITE FROM THE CROWDS

As the sun began to set, hopped back on the vaporetto in order to enjoy an evening near St Mark’s Square. On the way from Burano to Venice, I stopped for a quick visit to Torcello–the oldest center of civilization in the Venetian lagoon—with its baptistries and churches dating to the 7th century.

The Cathedral of Santa Maria Dell’Assunta is Torcello’s most popular attraction. The church, built in 639, is famous for its stunning Byzantine mosaics that depict the Last Judgement. 

Torcello is a short boat ride from Burano on vaporetto line 9. Compared to Murano and Burano, Torcello is fairly off-the-beaten-path.

Torcello was eerily quiet when I visited. The streets were deserted, the churches lay silent and the fields of grass rippled gently in the evening breeze. I reckon it was largely due to the hour of my visit, yet I couldn’t help but feel that Torcello was a sanctuary of sorts away from the crowds.

****

Venice is one of the most visited and heralded cities in the world. But after walking the same streets and fighting the crowds week after week, it took me a visit to its beautiful lagoon in order to remember why I fell in love with the city’s canals, colors and romantic waterways in the first place.

It is easy to get perturbed by the throngs of people and the camera-clicking crowds, but I guess everyone just wants a slice of the fairy-tale pie before its too late. For, along with an ever-growing list of other cities around the world, Venice is suffering from environmental changes and rising sea levels. And the maze-like city that has lured artists, writers and travelers for centuries is now slowly sinking below the water.

The timeless city is running out of time.

That is the irony of Venice.

______________

Additional Tips and Resources for Visiting the Venice Lagoon

• In order to avoid the crowds and heat, try to avoid Venice in July and August
• A 24 hour transportation pass to Venice costs €20. The pass is valid for for all buses and vaporettos within the Venice Municipality and include the islands of Murano and Burano. The bus pass is valid for travel around Mestre and Lido, but excludes travel to and from the Marco Polo Airport

The post Day Trip to Murano, Burano and Torcello appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Despite being Italy’s second most populous city, Milan gets very little love from tourists. As the undeniable economic hub of Italy, it is more often associated with business and industry than it is with its history-laden attractions. Yet, like everywhere else in Italy, Milan has a wealth of places to see. The city has stunning attractions that would deem it a must-see destination if it were located somewhere else. Anywhere else.

As it stands, Milan doesn’t frequently make it onto the itineraries of first-time travelers to Italy. The vibrant city deserves at least one day of exploration, but it rarely receives more than a passing glance. The city simply has too much competition from places like Rome, Florence and Venice.

Travelers who decide to give Milan a chance, however, will find a lively city with tons of things to do. Spending even one day in Milan reveals a city that is both forward-thinking and cosmopolitan. It is a place that has embraced the future with open arms, while holding on to the history, culture, and tradition that makes Italy such a special destination.

Travel Itinerary for One Day in Milan

Though Milan is nothing like Rome in terms of the grandeur of its architecture, it contains many gems that extend far beyond the sheer beauty of its central square. Milan contains numerous cupolas with beautiful frescoes, green city parks, an impressive museum of modern art, hidden alleyways and high-end streets for wealthy shoppers.

As with any large city, discovering the best of Milan in one day is challenging. Yet, armed with a pair of good walking shoes, I was able to explore many of the city’s top places to visit during my short 24 hour stay.

• The Duomo of Milan

The beating heart of Milan is undoubtedly the Piazza del Duomo and its dazzling cathedral. The famous Duomo di Milano is Milan’s most popular attractions and one of Italy’s most recognizable icons. It is, without a doubt, the top thing to see in Milan and one of the highlights of Italy as a whole.

The Gothic cathedral is among the world’s largest churches. It took six centuries to build and is an architectural masterpiece.

Purchasing tickets for the rooftop is the best way to appreciate the delicate intricacy of Milan’s Duomo. The rooftop affords an up-close look at the church’s gargoyles and spires.

On clear days, it even provides views over Milan’s surrounding buildings and the Alps in the distance.

• Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

Situated adjacent to the Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is unmissable. It is one of the city’s architectural highlights, as well as its premier high end shopping destination.

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele sits within a four story double arcade. It dates back to the mid 1800s and consists of vaulted glass arcades that shelter high end stores such as Gucci, Prada, and Versace.

The gallery is a must for both sightseers and shoppers wishing to splurge on designer-brand purchases in the world’s fashion capital.

• Castello Sforzesco

From the Piazza Duomo, the pedestrian drag of Via Dante leads to the fortified Castello Sforzesco and Sempione Park. The Sforzesco Castle and adjacent park are among my favorite places to visit in Milan.

The iconic red-brick Sforzesco Castle dates back to the 1300s. The castle—originally a Visconti fortress—became home to the mighty Sforza dynasty that ruled Renaissance Milan.

Today, the castle houses seven specialized museums, which gather together intriguing fragments of Milan’s cultural and civic history.

• Basilicas in Milan

Aside from the domineering Duomo Cathedral, Milan has a handful of pretty churches tucked into alleyways and lining its busy streets. Near the Piazza Duomo, we had the opportunity to visit a handful of Milan’s beautiful basilicas—including the exterior of Santa Maria delle Grazie, and the Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio.

Though travelers with only one day in Milan may wish to skip these smaller buildings, they are certainly worth exploring for those interested in religion and art.

• Leonardo Da Vinci’s Last Supper

Before traveling to Milan, I knew nothing about the city. I didn’t really know what to see in Milan,  other than the fact that the city housed the great painting

Aside from the Duomo, the Last Supper Painting by Leonardo Da Vinci is the city’s claim to fame.

The painting resides in the Santa Maria delle Grazie Basilica. It is both one of Da Vinci’s most defining works and one of the world’s most renowned paintings. Seeing the painting requires reservations, often months in advance.

Despite traveling to Milan dozens of times as a flight attendant, I’ve never been able to secure a reservation to the Last Supper painting due to the last-minute nature of my visits.

• The Navigli of Milan

The Navigli are a system of navigable canals that once served as transportation thoroughfares in Medieval Milan. Today, they are an enjoyable place to visit, lined with bars and eateries serving unbeatable happy hour deals.

The Navigli serve as a peaceful place to take a late afternoon stroll, followed by a pre-dinner aperitivo (a quintessential and ever-popular Milan tradition that involves cocktail-hour drinks followed by generous portions of finger food).

Kicking back and enjoying an aperol spritz is the perfect way to end a day of sightseeing in Milan.

***

Despite being one of Italy’s premier cities, Milan is often overlooked by travelers who choose to head to Rome, Florence, or Venice instead. And when travelers have more than a week in Italy, they nearly always decide to head to the country’s quaint photogenic villages—picturesque destinations along the Amalfi Coast, the Cinque Terre or Lake Como, for example.

On the surface, it is easy to see why eager sightseers might choose to skip Milan. Unlike many other cities in Italy, Milan is not overflowing well-known places to visit. Its beauty is much more subtle—often tucked away in alleyways, hidden in nondescript churches or nestled among modern cement buildings.

Milan is Italy’s industrial and economic powerhouse. And, while on the surface the city seems to be little more than a brash and soulless metropolis, spending time in Italy’s second-largest city reveals a place that is teeming with things to do and see.

From meandering down alleyways to happy hour along the canals and from quaint basilicas to the grand Piazza Duomo, Milan is certainly worthy of a few days’ visit.

Most people just don’t give it a chance.

The post Discovering Milan in One Day appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Lake Como is a Y-shaped body of water that snakes through the craggy mountains of Northern Italy. A well-known retreat for the rich and famous, Como blends movie-star excess with the simplicity of rural Italian life. In Como, it is not uncommon to cross paths with the rich and famous. It is the type of place where boutique shops sell high-end jewelry and opulent villas showcase the best of Italian lakeside living.

And yet, its miles of hiking paths, its quaint streets and gardens and its easy accessibility from Milan mean that Lake Como can be easily enjoyed by everyone.

Regardless of budget, Lake Como is a place worth visiting and savoring. As such, a day trip to Lake Como has become one of the most popular excursions from Milan.

Lake Como: The Jewel of Northern Italy

Lake Como—the crown jewel of travel to the Italian Alps—constitutes an accessible getaway from Milan and brings visitors face-to-face with Italy’s irresistible charm.

While Lake Como is known as a famed retreat for George Clooney and Madonna, it has also become a common tourist destination for visitors from around the world. Much like the popular beach-side towns of the Cinque Terre and Amalfi Coast, visitors to Lake Como enjoy wandering around the lake’s picturesque villages and taking in the beauty of the surrounding mountains.

The body of water snakes through stunning alpine scenery and is home to some of Italy’s most romantic villages, including Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio.

Traveling to Lake Como from Milan

In the two years that I spent working as an Italian-language flight attendant based in New York, I traveled to Milan on a near-weekly basis. On my 24 hour Milan layovers, I took numerous opportunities to visit Lake Como by train.

While traveling to Milan for work, I must have gone to Lake Como at least five times. Each time, my visit was slightly different: sometimes I traveled to the town of Como, sometimes I chose to stay exclusively in Varenna, and yet other times, I explored the shores of Bellagio.

For travelers with at least two days to spend around Lake Como, hopping between lakeside villages is a fantastic idea. With only one day, however, I recommend focusing on the idyllic towns of Varenna and Bellagio.

In order to reach Lake Como, I took a train from Milan’s Central Station to the colorful town of Varenna. While the lake is home to a host of picturesque villages that are worth visiting, I recommend focusing on Varenna, as it provides quick and easy access to the idyllic town of Bellagio.

Trains to Varenna leave from Milan’s central station nearly every hour. The journey lasts approximately one hour by regional train and costs €6.70 each way.

• Varenna

The idyllic village of Varenna is a sleepy cluster of houses on the shores of Lake Como. Sitting on the shores of Italy’s beautiful Y-shaped lake and nestled between towering mountains, the town is bursting with colors. 

While there isn’t much to do in Varenna per se, the town’s beauty lies in its picturesque alleyways, its laid-back charm and its proximity to the lake. Eateries serving classic Italian fare line the lakefront and allow visitors to dine while taking in the views of their breathtaking surroundings. 

On many of my day trips to Lake Como from Milan, I spent the day meandering around the town’s cobblestone streets, sipping wine at one of the many outdoor cafes and taking in the lakefront views.

• Bellagio

Varenna is only a short ferry hop away from Bellagio—another idyllic town sitting on the shores of the lake. The short ferry ride takes about 15 minutes and costs €4.60 each way. The ferry ride is not only a convenient and inexpensive way of traveling between the two picturesque towns, but it is also offers fantastic views and is a must-do attraction in itself. The ride affords passengers spectacular views of the surrounding towns and mountains.

Bellagio is known for its beautiful villas. The town is one of the most renowned in Italy and a frequent bucket list destination for travelers to Europe. During my visits to Bellagio, I walked around the town’s narrow streets and admired its ornate residences.

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The world-renowned lake is a playground for the rich and famous that lies within striking distance of Milan—Italy’s second-largest city.

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In local legend, Italy’s Monti Sibillini National Park is a place of both mythical and historical importance. It is where the body of Pontius Pilate, the man who authorized Jesus’ execution, was allegedly disposed of after he was sentenced to death by the Roman Emperor, Tiberius. Some disregard the theory and argue that the body was actually dumped in a Swiss lake but, those who refute this alternative speculation, believe its resting place is in the Lago di Pilato–a small glacial lake nestled in Italy’s stunning national park.

Due perhaps to the alleged historical events surrounding the lake, it has been a catalyst for legends of sorcery, witchcraft and magic. Even the name of the park alludes to a sorceress–Sybil–whose kingdom is believed to lie in a cave, deep within the mountains. It is the park’s association with local legend and folklore, as well as its incredible natural scenery, that envelops the area with an air of mystery and intrigue.

The Lago di Pilato in Monti Sibillini National Park is only fed by rainwater and snowmelt. Thus, its size fluctuates significantly according to the season. In reality, the lake consists of two separate bodies of water that must have been divided over time. These small gems remain hidden from the view of most casual day hikers. The area is stunning and wild–a true wilderness paradise in a country that packs 60 million people into an area the size of California.<

Reaching the lake turned out to be a strenuous ordeal. Since the trail leading to the glacier winds up a treeless mountainside, we wanted to avoid hiking in the heat of the day. My cousin, Chiara, had hiked the mountain a few years back with a group of friends. In order to avoid the sizzling afternoon temperatures, they hiked the mountain at night. When she suggested we follow suit and explore the national park’s wilderness in total blackness, I was initially a bit skeptical.

Yet, night hiking wound up being a wonderful way to visit the park, for it afforded us a beautiful view of both the starry sky and the spectacular sunrise.

I left Fabriano with a rather large group of Chiara’s friends around midnight, and reached the trailhead at two in the morning. The night air was chilly, and the absence of city lights resulted in a night sky that rivaled that of Wadi Rum.

The stars were so bright and the constellations so vivid, that they kept tricking me into believing my point-and-shoot camera would be able to capture the mesmerizing milky way overhead.

As it turns out, my persistence significantly reduced the already low battery on my camera, but I was able to capture some of the panoramas from the hike nonetheless.

The trek to the top of the mountain was fatiguing primarily because the path consisted of loose scree that would push us half a step back with every full stride we took.

When we reached the summit–content and a bit weary–we huddled together in the cold to watch the vibrant colors slowly emerge from darkness.

The sunrise was truly beautiful and, had it not been for the biting cold, the experience would have been perfect. I resisted all powerful urges to run around to keep warm and, instead, watched the night sky change hues, as the sunlight afforded us a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.

After the sun rose and the freezing temperatures gave way to the warmth of a new day, we continued our trek down the mountain and into the glacial valley that houses the Lago di Pilato. The hike brought us down steep, grassy slopes and fields of scree, until we reached the shore of the two miniscule bodies of water.

In addition to its history and folklore, Lago di Pilato is famous for the small, prehistorical organisms called chirocephalus marchesonii that inhabit its waters. The organisms resemble miniscule orange shrimp and the Lago di Pilato is the only place on Earth where they exist.

Our midnight hike in the Monti Sibillini National Park was truly an unforgettable experience and it allowed me to indulge in nature in a way I never had before in Italy. There are few times in my life that I have seen such vibrant sunrises and such vivid stars.

The hike was a perfect conclusion to my stay in Italy and fueled my excitement for traveling to Namibia in December, where I will have the opportunity to explore some of the wildest and most extraordinary wilderness on Earth.

The post Night Hike in Monti Sibillini National Park appeared first on Erika's Travels .

With each trip to Italy, I meet family members I never knew existed. Then, I meet family of those family members and family of the families of my family. In truth, I have never been good at keeping track of how each person is related to me. There are simply far too many people to keep track of and it is at times overwhelming to interact with everyone I am expected to know.

After one particularly large family gathering with my mom’s side of the family, Dan turned to me and asked. “Is there anyone in Italy that you are not related to in some way?”

Every time I visit Italy, I spend the majority of my time with my mother’s side of the family in Fabriano. I’ve met fourth cousins, aunts twice removed, wives of the cousins of my grandparents, etcetera. I’m often overwhelmed by the sheer number of people that I’m related to in some way.

Yet still, I forget that my Italian roots are much deeper than I often realize.

The Ciccones of Campo di Giove

It is sometimes easy to forget that my Italian heritage is not limited to my mother’s side. If I knew as many people on my dad’s side as I do on my mom’s, then I would quite possibly even know Madonna, who shares my grandmother’s last name and whose father immigrated from the small town of Pacentro, neighboring Campo di Giove.

Unfortunately, the Ciccones have scattered, and few remain in Abruzzo.

And as a result, my chances of ever meeting the famous singer that likely shares my DNA, are zero to none.

In order to learn more about my Italian roots, I traveled with my family to the small town of Campo di Giove in the heart of Abruzzo. We arrived in Campo di Giove two weeks before much of my family would descend upon the town for vacation.

Still, I was able to meet long-lost relatives and gain a better understanding of my father’s side of the family.

My Nonna Antonietta’s Childhood Home

My Nonna, Antonietta Ciccone, was born in Cansano Italy, in 1924. She moved to the neighboring town of Campo di Giove at a young age. Her father worked for the railroad and, like all railroad workers in Italy during that time, he lived with his family in a small casello along the rail line. Casellos are houses that used to lie at each kilometer of the train tracks. Railway employees would live in these homes with their families and be responsible for the portion of railroad track between their house and the next.

Though people no longer live in these houses, many of them still exist—abandoned, and neglected over time.

During our visit to Campo di Giove, we decided to see the casello where Nonna spent the majority of her childhood.  Today, it is largely inaccessible. In order to visit it, we had to trample over brambles and walk along the train tracks.

The house sits beside a defunct rail line. It has been vandalized and deserted.

My family peered through the window into the crumbling house. Hesitantly, we stepped in. Glass bottles lay shattered on the floors and bats flew overhead. Yet, despite the eeriness, it was powerful to stand in the very room where, two generations ago, my grandmother would sit by the fire with her family and look after her siblings.

My grandmother never had the kind of childhood we were afforded. At the age of nine, she began providing for her family and was responsible for cooking and cleaning. She grew up during World War II, at a time when many Italians lived in terror. The area of Campo di Giove in Abruzzo suffered directly from intense warfare. Many of the towns in the area were heavily bombarded by German forces after the Italian government surrendered in 1943.  During this time, many homes and villages were raided and Nonna’s family was forced to evacuate Casello 33.

For nine months, they lived in Casello 19, while bombs rained on the nearby cities and homes.

When the war finally ended, Nonna and her family returned to their home near Campo di Giove, but they found it to be deserted. Nearly all their possessions were gone. In the aftermath of the war, families in Campo di Giove began to rebuild their lives, but many stores in town no longer carried basic supplies. The closest place where she could buy food and necessities was the town of Sulmona, nearly 30 km away.

Though her father worked for the railroad, there were times when her family was forced to make the entire journey from Campo di Giove to Sulmona on foot over the mountains.

Visiting Sulmona: The Nearest Large Town

We stopped in Sulmona for a few hours, during our visit to Abruzzo. Sulmona is a beautiful town, famous for its ancient Roman ruins and confetti (sugarcoated almonds). The confetti are particularly interesting because they are sold in fancy arrangements outside of shops and, thus, decorate the streets with their vibrant colors.

The day we visited Sulmona happened to coincidentally be the day of one of the city’s major yearly festivals–the Palio della Giostra Cavalleresca. A palio is a competition that is often held between various sections of a city. Many towns in Italy have their own palios that typically consist of various challenges and games that date back to the Middle Ages. In addition to competitions, many palios often entail cultural reenactments and parades.

During Sulmona’s palio, we witnessed a parade in which people wore costumes signifying the various populations and socio-economic classes of Medieval Europe. It was a wonderful surprise.

 

Finding Distant Relatives in Campo di Giove

Not only did my trip to Campo di Giove and its surroundings give me an opportunity to retrace my grandmother’s footsteps, but it also gave me a taste of rural Italian life, away from the crowds. So many tourists have been venturing into Tuscany and Umbria to get a sense of the real Italy, whatever that means. Yet, I would wager that there are few places that feel so “Italian” as Campo di Giove.

The city itself is beautiful. Lying amidst the Apennines, Campo di Giove has a stunning natural backdrop and crisp, refreshing air. Its historic old center is reminiscent of many of Italy’s medieval cities with its narrow lanes and cobblestone streets.

On our final day in Abruzzo, my parents and I ventured up to Campo di Giove’s city center in order to meet my grandmother’s cousin, Adelina—one of the few family members I have remaining in the old town.

My great aunt Adelina is quite possibly the most animated old woman I have ever met. Our unannounced arrival had taken her by surprise and, upon seeing my dad—who she had not seen for nearly two decades—she began exclaiming “Che gioia! Che gioia!” (What joy! What joy!).

If I ever make it to age 89, I can only hope to be half as mentally and physically agile as Adelina was when we visited her. She welcomed us into her home and began scurrying around the house in search of food and drinks to offer. We had foregone telling her about our visit so that she would not have to prepare food for us, but it did not deter her from offering us whatever was on the table.

That day, it happened to be Belgian waffles and shots of Limoncello. 

Though it still morning, Adelina eschewed our request for water and, instead, offered us her home-brewed Limoncello. The liquor content likely matched her age and was so strong that it took every single person in my family by surprise. As she continued to pour the alcohol into our shotglasses, she recounted stories from her childhood in Campo di Giove and lit up the room with her energy and eccentricity. Much like my grandmother and great aunt, Ersilia, Adelina had the capacity of remembering even the most minute details of stories from her childhood.

It is in Adelina’s home in the Apennine mountains—as I sat around the table listening to stories of bygone days and drinking limoncello— that I couldn’t help but think. This is it. This history. This landscape. This tradition of gathering around the table with multiple generations of family. This is what Italy is all about. 

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Note: I visited Adelina in 2012, after a road trip through Southern Italy with my parents and boyfriend (now husband). A few years after our visit, Adelina passed away. Though I’m saddened that I’ll never get a chance to see her again in Campo di Giove, I’ll always remember her gregarious energy and unfiltered joy.

The post Retracing my Family Roots in Campo di Giove appeared first on Erika's Travels .

I assume that most people have heard of Versailles. The monumental 17th century palace is among the most renowned royal residences in the world. It draws upwards of 15 million annual visitors and is a mainstay of Paris itineraries.

But even if you’re a well-traveled history buff, chances are that one of Europe’s other royal gems—the Caserta Palace—isn’t on your radar.

In fact, had you not stumbled upon this blog post precisely because you were looking for information on the massive estate, I might even assume you’d never heard of it.

The Italian royal residence flies largely under the radar, despite being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known in Italy as the Reggia di Caserta, the lavish palace is one of Europe’s largest buildings and a stunning homage to Baroque architecture.

Yet, until I found myself in front of its stately yet unassuming exterior, I didn’t even know it existed.

THE CASERTA PALACE IN ITALY: AN OVERVIEW

The Caserta Palace dates back to 1752. It was modeled after the palace of Versailles and built for the king of the Bourbon monarchy.

In a bid to outdo the iconic French estate, Italian architect Luigi Vanvitelli designed a palace even bigger than its French rival. With five stories, 1200 rooms, 34 staircases and a 250m-long facade, the Reggia was the largest building in Europe at the time of its construction.

Today, the Reggia remains is the largest palace in the world by volume. In other words, taking into account floor space and wall height, the 2 million cubic meter palace is bigger than any other—including the Palace of Parliament in Romania (largest by floor space) and the Malbork Castle in Poland (largest by land area).

The Caserta Palace is considered to be a triumph of Italian Baroque architecture. UNESCO  has described it as “the ‘swan song’ of the spectacular art of the Baroque period.”

The palace’s extensive gardens are an integral part of the estate. Visiting the massive park on the palace grounds is as worthwhile as setting foot into its royal residences.

Though the Reggia di Caserta is among Italy’s most noteworthy Baroque buildings, it doesn’t receive the credit it deserves.

After the unification of Italy at the end of the 19th century, the magnificent property was almost completely abandoned.

And today—though it will allegedly soon undergo an extensive multi-million-dollar renovation—the Reggia di Caserta still appears somewhat neglected.

THE REGGIA DI CASERTA EXTERIOR

The Caserta Palace is one of the grandest estates in the world—comparable to Stockholm’s Drottingholm Palace or Vienna’s Schonbrunn.

Yet, if you were to judge it solely by its cover, you likely wouldn’t know of its riches.

From the outside, the Reggia is somewhat plain and nondescript. When I visited, it appeared almost abandoned. I was surprised to see that the gardens in front of the palace were overgrown and littered with trash.

In fact, tourism at the Reggia is remarkably understated. Outside the entrance to the Caserta Palace, you won’t find souvenir stalls with replicas of the Baroque structure. Nor will you see hoards of tourists taking selfies for Instagram.

For somehow, despite its grandeur, the regal-yet-unassuming building seems forgotten amidst Italy’s wealth of tourist attractions.

THE CASERTA PALACE INTERIOR

As you enter the Reggia, the first thing you’ll see is a grand marble staircase that leads to the Royal Apartments. Vanvitelli’s immense staircase is one of the highlights of Caserta Palace.

But the grand staircase is just an appetizer for the decadence that lies beyond.

The Reggia di Caserta’s interior is divided into four oblong courts that fan out from a central vestibule. Its entire interior boasts a dizzying display of opulence and wealth.

Though we only visited one floor of the building, it took us a few hours to marvel at its enormous rooms. The walls and ceilings of the Royal Apartments are covered frescoes, sculptures, and tapestries.

Room by room, the building’s opulent display puts on a show that rivals that of Europe’s most lavish palaces.

The interior of the Reggia has served as the backdrop to various films. Some might recognize as the palace of Queen Jamilla from Star Wars.

Though there were certainly other tourists milling about when we visited, I found the Reggia’s lack of crowds to be both refreshing and disorienting.

Considering the UNESCO World Heritage site’s scale and beauty, I would have expected to see throngs of tourists wandering about its rooms.

THE REGGIA PALACE GARDENS

Perhaps even more than for the palace itself, the Reggia di Caserta is known for its expansive gardens.

The pools, fountains and cascades in the estate’s park are aligned through a ‘telescope effect’ that extends outward from the salmon-colored palace.

We chose to walk the entire length of the park during our visit to the Caserta Palace gardens. And in doing so, we were able to comprehend the enormous scale of the place.

We walked past marvelous statues and cascading fountains, while trying to weave our way through the sprinklers to cool off in the heat.

The length of the gardens is deceptive. The distance from the rear of the palace building to the end of the park is almost three kilometers.

We ended up spending quite a long time at the Reggia di Caserta and its surrounding gardens. The place was simply much larger than we had anticipated and there was so much to absorb.

After walking the length of the fountains, we spent a bit of time exploring the English Garden on the palace grounds. The English Garden contains plants from all over the world. It is a beautiful shaded spot with fountains, statues and crumbling porticoes.

GETTING TO THE REGGIA PALACE

My family and I stopped by the the Caserta Palace following a Puglia road trip in southern Italy. Its proximity to the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii convinced to make a quick detour.

The Caserta Reggia lies 30 minutes north of Naples, in the town of Caserta. It is a popular place to visit when traveling around Naples, though it can also easily be visited by train as a day trip from Rome.

Regular trains connect Naples to Caserta in less than an hour. Caserta’s train station lies directly opposite the palace grounds.

If you’re driving from Naples, exit the A1 at Caserta Sud and follow signs for the Reggia.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR THE REGGIA DI CASERTA

While many travelers will choose to stay in Naples and visit Caserta as a day trip, there are a handful of guesthouses and apartments near the palace as well.

B&B la Corte in Centro, located within close walking distance of the Reggia, has near-perfect reviews on Booking.com. With a kitchenette and air conditioning, it is a mid-range option ideal for families.

CASERTA PALACE HOURS AND ENTRANCE FEES

The Reggia’s opening and closing hours vary a bit, depending on whether you’re visiting the park or its gardens.

The palace is open daily from 9:30am-7:30pm, while the park opens at 8:30am and closes at 7pm. The English Garden opens at 8:30 and closes an hour earlier than the rest of the park, at 6pm.

The entire Royal Palace of Caserta, including the park and gardens, is closed on Tuesdays.

Access to the Reggia’s interior costs 10€, while viewing its extensive gardens costs 9€.

Travelers wishing to purchase a combination ticket can access the entire complex for a discounted 14€.

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Around Europe, royal residences—from Versailles in France to the Drottingholm Palace in Stockholm, and from Peles Castle in Transylvania to Schonbrunn in Austria—showcase the opulence and extravagance of society’s elite.

Though I’d never heard of the Reggia di Caserta before visiting, its grandeur and opulence took me by surprise.The Caserta Palace may not look like much from the outside, but its royal apartments and gardens are among the most impressive in Europe.

Hopefully, one day, the lavish estate will receive the recognition it deserves.

The post Visiting the Reggia di Caserta in Italy appeared first on Erika's Travels .

The string of fabled towns that line Italy’s Amalfi Coast offer some of the most incredible coastal scenery in Europe. Connected by a winding ribbon of road, the villages cling to emerald mountains and overlook the sapphire sea. Here, precipitous mountains plunge into the sea, picturesque villages maintain the charm of a bygone era and miles of hiking trails offer travelers the opportunity to explore the area on foot.

Simply put, the Amalfi Coast is one of the most beautiful places in Italy.

VISITING THE AMALFI AND CAPRI IN TWO DAYS

Let’s face it. The Amalfi Coast deserves more than just two days.

The spectacular coastline that winds its way from Vietri sul Mare to Sorrento is among the most beautiful coastal drives in the world. The stunning coastal route is a destination for photographers, honeymooners, and those wishing to get a taste of Italian village life (though the latter group my be disappointed to see that the towns are filled with more tourists than locals).

Ideally, your Italy itinerary will allot more than two day to the Amalfi and Capri. But if you’re like me and only have limited time to explore the stunning stretch of coastal highway, it is still possible to have an unforgettable experience.

DAY 1: DRIVE THE AMALFI COAST

Driving along the Amalfi Coast is one of the top things to do in Italy. The spectacular route along the Coasta Amalfitana (SS163) stretches from Sorrento to Vietri sul Mare, for 60 glorious kilometers. In many ways, the Amalfi Coast is reminiscent of Italy’s Cinque Terre—another must-see attraction that has soared in popularity recently.

Though I was admittedly not the one behind the wheel, I found the Amalfi Coast drive to be far less terrifying than online forums suggested Every post we read online made driving the Amalfi Coast sound like a death sentence. Bloggers and Thorn Tree writers made it seem so terrifying that we started to believe taking the car would mean staring death in the face. They discouraged us from taking our car along the coast due to the tight hairpin turns, small roads and heavy traffic.

My Italian aunt, however, told us not to listen to the suggestions of fearful travelers who were unaccustomed to the country’s winding coastal roads. She had traveled the same road a few years earlier and told us that the drive was nothing more than a beautiful experience with a small touch of adrenaline-pumping fun.

Fortunately, we heeded her advice.

The dramatic coastline took our breath away at every turn.

True, the one-lane road was chock full of speeding vespas, impatient local drivers and rumbling oversize tourist busses. There were times when these buses would careen down the road and we had to squeeze toward the cliff wall as best we could to let them through. Yet, overall, the ride was nowhere as frightening as the blogosphere suggested.

Travelers who have familiarity with driving in Europe or along winding ocean roads, need not think twice about the journey.

RAVELLO

We began our drive along the Amalfi Coast at Vietri sul Mare and zig-zagged our way around cliff edges, passing various towns along the hair-raising road to Ravello.

Ravello is a pretty town that sits high in the cliffs overlooking the ocean. Founded in the 5th century as a sanctuary from barbarian invaders, the town is unique for its lofty perch. As a result, Ravello boasts unparalleled views of the coastline and the azure seas.

We spent a bit over an hour walking Ravello’s streets and taking in the vistas. Ravello affords stunning views of the coastline from its luxurious hotels that rate among the fanciest in the world. Some of the most beautiful views of the ocean can be found at the opulent Hotel Palazzo Avino.

Of course, we asked to peek into them so we could see the splendid views from their balconies.

The entire town looks like a postcard and I could not stop taking pictures of the towering bougainvilleas, the dramatic ocean views and the narrow winding streets leading to the central plaza.

AMALFI

The town of Amalfi is located about halfway along the highway.

Between the years 839 and 1200, Amalfi was an important maritime center in Italy. It held the seat of the Duchy of Amalfi and rivaled Genoa in its importance as a powerful trading center. Later, the town lost its political power, but it never lost its importance–for today, it is recognized around the world as one of the most picturesque coastal towns anywhere.

Tourists from around the world flock to the beautiful city in the summer to admire its ocean views and phenomenal cathedral.

Amalfi’s stunning Cathedral is an amalgam of architectural influences. The imposing church has been remodeled several times, adding Romanesque, Byzantine, Gothic, and Baroque elements.

After visiting the cathedral, we decided to have lunch in Amalfi and spent a few hours exploring the town on foot.

My mom found paradise in the town’s artsy souvenir shops, but I preferred walking the narrow streets, admiring the work of street artists and exploring residential alleyways. The town was full of tourists shuffling here and there, buying limoncello, gelato and designer outfits.

POSITANO

From the town of Amalfi, we continued driving along the Amalfi Coast’s precarious road. The drive granted us views of towering bluffs and turquoise waters. Every bend seemed to afford a more beautiful picture perfect panorama than the last. We drove past cliff-side terraces growing grapes and lemons, tightly-packed colorful towns and roadside ceramic shops until we reached the town of Positano.

Positano is the Amalfi Coast’s most beloved village and the one that is most likely to make its way to the front cover of glossy travel magazines. Positano’s charm lies in its terraced houses that tumble down the coastline’s vertiginous cliffs. The houses appear to be stacked directly on top of each other, overlooking the coast’s azure waters.

The entire city seems to hug the steep cliff face with dear life.

Visiting Santa Maria Assunta is one of the top things to do in Positano. The tiled dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta can be seen from every angle of the town. And from nearly everywhere, views of the sapphire sea extend behind it, blending seamlessly with the sky.

Positano is a popular place to spend a few days. It is a magnet for shoppers, lovers of nature and seekers of the perfect Instagram shot. While our two day Amalfi Coast itinerary only allotted a few hours for Positano, it was not difficult to see why the picturesque oceanside town receives so much hype.

From Positano, we continued onward, toward Sorrento. Sorrento was our last stop along the drive and the biggest of the Amalfi Coast cities. We stayed the night in the city, but did not spend much time visiting its sites.

Instead, we used it as a launching point for our day trip to the majestic island of Capri.

 

DAY 2: CAPRI DAY TRIP FROM SORRENTO

After a wonderful day of driving the Amalfi Coast, we were not quite ready to bid farewell to the stunning coastline. So we decided to take a ferry from Sorrento to the Island of Capri in order to indulge in a second day of viewing spectacular scenery.

The ferry from Sorrento to Capri takes approximately 20 minutes. There are more than two dozen daily departures between the two coastal towns, and prices run around $30 per person, one way. Alternatively, those traveling from Naples, Caserta, Pompeii or beyond, can take the Naples to Capri ferry.

Capri sits in the Tyrrhenian sea, south of Naples. A popular day trip from Naples, it is a tourist hotspot that draws people from around the world to its incredible natural environment.  To say the island is beautiful, is simply an understatement. Unfortunately, the boatloads of tourists that visit Capri every day have allowed prices to skyrocket. Nonetheless, visiting the island–even on a time-pressed itinerary–is a must with any visit to the Amalfi Coast.

The vistas of azure waters and dramatic, craggy cliffs are simply too difficult to forget.

 

VIA KRUPP WALK

We started our day in Capri with a panoramic walk along the spectacular Via Krupp. The walk turned out to be an incredibly fatiguing but ultimately an amazing experience. The entire time, we walked under the scorching sun. We were dripping in sweat and slightly dehydrated. To make matters worse, we also did the hike in reverse, meaning the majority of the time we were walking slightly downhill and the last bit consisted of hundreds of steps uphill.

Yet, we attempted to disregard our discomforts and push forward for, every way we turned, the trail afforded us amazing views of bluffs, outcrops and the Faraglioni–Capri’s giant coastal monoliths.

After our hike, Dan and I took a bus to Anacapri, the island’s second city. If the Amalfi Coast drive did not test my vertigo, the bus ride to Anacapri certainly did. Standing on a rumbling bus on a one lane road overlooking a precipice was nothing short of terrifying. Luckily, the bus drivers are so accustomed to the roads that the thought of their expertise put my mind at ease. We visited a few of the churches in Anacapri and strolled around the city for a bit before catching another bus to the entrance of the Blue Grotto.

 

THE BLUE GROTTO

The Blue Grotto is a sea cave known for its vibrant color. Its mesmerizing sapphire hue is due to the particular way the sun reflects off the limestone to illuminate the cavern. Allegedly, the grotto was famous even in Roman times and the Emperor Tiberius used it as his personal bathhouse.

Reaching the grotto during the day is only possible with a guided tour. The tour consists of hopping on a small boat and entering the cavern for a mere few minutes. Though it was expensive and the long lines waiting outside the cave made our visit incredibly rushed, I am happy I had the opportunity to visit something so unique and magnificent.

 

MONTE SOLARO

After visiting the Blue Grotto, we had a few hours to explore before our ferry back to Sorrento, so we decided to take a chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro–Capri’s tallest mountain. The view from the top, too, was spectacular. We could see the entirety of the island and part of the mainland’s coast as well.

The chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro costs 12 euros roundtrip and affords spectacular panoramas of the island.

From the top, the Faraglioni stood out against the deep blue water and painted a beautiful backdrop.

 

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Yes, Capri and the Amalfi Coast are full of boatloads of tourists. Yes, the prices are absurdly high and, yes, the crowds and the heat can be tiring.

But for those seeking a little slice of Italian paradise, I wager there are few places in the world where nature and culture coalesce to create such picturesque views and such a vibrant atmosphere.

 

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Pompeii has long been lauded as one of the top places to visit in Italy. In a country famed for its ancient relics and well-preserved ruins, the archeological site in Mount Vesuvius’ shadow may just be the cream of the crop.

Visiting Pompeii is a poignant reminder of the incredible power and breadth of the Roman empire. I have now seen Roman ruins from Morocco to the United Kingdom and from Tunisia to rose-colored ruins of Palmyra, Syria. And yet, the ruins extend even beyond what I have seen. The Roman Empire has left a wealth of archeological evidence that can aid  us in better understanding life during ancient times.

To me, no other site painted such vivid pictures of the Roman Era as Pompeii.

Pompeii: A City Preserved under Ash

In 79AD, the legendary Mount Vesuvius erupted and obliterated many of the communities living in the surrounding fertile plains. A thick layer of ash from the eruption covered the area and buried its residents. Among the places that were buried under a 20 ft layer of ash, are the expansive Pompeii ruins.

Though destructive at the time, the ash was vital to the preservation of the site because the lack of air moisture prevented the city from deteriorating over the years. As a result, Pompeii has become one of the preeminent tourist destinations in Italy, for it allows visitors to glean information on daily life in Ancient Rome and imagine what one of the great Roman cities would have been like in its heyday.

Thanks to the ash, many of Pompeii’s buildings are nearly intact, though erosion has aided their slow deterioration since the uncovering and unveiling of the archeological site.

It is still possible, however, to walk down the maze of streets in the city, admire the tall surrounding walls and peek into ruins so well-preserved that they still have roofs and brightly colored frescoes.

• The Mummies of Pompeii

Another amazing feature that speaks to Pompeii’s impeccable preservation is the collection of plaster casts mummies. Those who were not lucky enough to flee the decimated city on August 24, 79AD, met the unfortunate fate of being buried under debris.

When excavators in the 1800s discovered the bodies, they noticed that the ash had been remarkable in preserving the skeletal structures of Pompeii’s citizens. The ash and debris also left another clue that helped preserve the bodies–where people were buried, hardened lava formed around them and left  body-shaped cavities where where they had decomposed. Excavators filled these void spaces with plaster and were able to reconstruct the bodies of victims.

It was incredible seeing the plaster casts, for the contorted bodies so dramatically captured the Pompeiian tragedy.

• The Ancient Brothel in Pompeii

Toward the end of our day, Dan and I stumbled upon what was perhaps the most surprising and interesting of all the rooms we had seen–the ancient city’s brothel.

The brothel’s surrounding walls are adorned with erotic paintings of people contorted in various sex positions. The brothel also has various small rooms with stone beds that are so minuscule that they would have made the bed in my college dorm room look spacious.

Many of the women acting as prostitutes in Pompeii were slaves, trafficked from the Middle East  and forced to perform sexual pleasures for men so that they could scrounge up a few loose coins. The poor and disenfranchised had no option but to sell their bodies for eager, wealthy Romans.

Seems to me that some things have not changed much over the years.

Pompeii Travel Logistics

Pompeii lies half an hour south of Naples, near the famed Amalfi Coast. Most tourists choose to visit the ruins while exploring the coast and its surroundings, though travelers with limited time often opt on booking organized tours as day trips from Rome.

The ruins of Pompeii cost €15 to enter, though European citizens aged 18-25 get a small discount.

***

Dan and I spent the better part of six hours walking through the ruins. Though the sun was searing as usual, the buildings provided much-needed shade and respite from the heat. We visited the amphitheaters, numerous living quarters, impressive baths and villas containing mosaics and predominantly red paintings.

Visiting Pompeii is like entering a different world. The UNESCO-recognized ruins are Europe’s most compelling archaeological site. Sprawling and haunting, they are a stark reminder of the destructive forces of nature. And with their unparalleled preservation and plaster cast mummies, they illustrate the rise and fall of empires like no other place on Earth.

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