Komodo National Park is famous for housing the world’s only population of Komodo dragons. The Komodo dragons—deadly lizards famed for being the largest reptiles on Earth—are the park’s premier tourist draw. And rightly so. They are terrifying and utterly fascinating.

Yet tourists who visit Komodo National Park and limit their experience to animal encounters above water, are missing out on one of the world’s greatest underwater wonderlands.

The coral reefs around Komodo National Park are spectacular. In all my travels, I’ve rarely come across such a remarkable array of colorful coral and fish.

KOMODO NATIONAL PARK SNORKELING TOUR

I traveled to Komodo National Park with Dan and our friend Courtney, as part of a three-week trip to Indonesia. After a relaxing few days on Gili Air, we were excited to experience the wild side of Indonesia. We wanted the thrill of visiting an area of the county that—though still familiar with tourists—is relatively off-the-beaten-path.

We booked our tour of Komodo National Park from a small agency in downtown Labuan Bajo. Labuan Bajo’s main street is littered with small tour offices advertising tours to see the Komodo dragons and scuba diving trips to the nearby coral reef.

The diving in Komodo National Park is world-class. Yet, since both Dan and I had yet to get our scuba certification, we decided to book a two day tour to Komodo National Park that included both hiking with the Komodo dragons  and snorkeling at Manta Point.

The tour cost us around $40 per person, including meals and excluding entrance fees. 

PINK SAND BEACH IN KOMODO NATIONAL PARK

On the second day of our tour, following our encounter with Komodo dragons, we explored some of Indonesia’s most pristine coral reef. The first stop on our tour itinerary was the beautiful Pink Beach. The beach gets its rosy hue from the finely-crushed red coral that has washed ashore and mixed with the white sand. It is not the only beach in the area that is famous for its pinkish tinge, but it is certainly the most visited on boat tours around Komodo. 

In all honesty, I do not remember much about the beach for, after forcing myself into the water and swimming feebly to the shore, I ran to the shade, planted my face in the sand and vomited.

Had I not been so preoccupied dealing with seasickness from the boat ride, I would have likely marveled at the sand’s rosy hue and at the surrounding cobalt water.

The wild and rugged scenery around Komodo National Park is truly spectacular. Sapphire waters contrast sharply with the pristine beaches and sparkle under the equatorial sun. Beyond the beaches, the islands’ sinuous mountain ridges look otherworldly and prehistoric.

SNORKELING AT MANTA POINT

From the pink-sand beach, we headed to Manta Point–the first of two snorkeling locations on our tour.

Luckily, I began to feel better as the day progressed and, while I couldn’t quite shake off the feeling of queasiness or lightheadedness, I am grateful that I was able to enjoy a day of snorkeling in Indonesia’s underwater paradise regardless.

Seeing animals in the wild is never a guarantee, so we counted ourselves incredibly lucky to have seen more than ten manta rays gliding gracefully through the waters during our visit to Manta Point.

Watching the giant rays drift below us was magical and surreal. I’d seen stingrays in Cape Aghulas and Moorea before, but this was my first time seeing mantas. The sheer size of the animals took me by surprise. With wingspans that reach over twenty feet, these giant cartilaginous fish can weigh almost 3,000 pounds. 

I wish my grainy photographs could do justice to the experience. 

The marine life at Manta Point isn’t limited to manta rays, however. Though we were a long ways up from the ocean floor, we saw a variety of fish darting between the underwater gardens and even spotted a giant sea turtle that lay camouflaged under an outcrop of sponge-like coral.

SNORKELING AT KANAWAH ISLAND, INDONESIA

After about an hour and a half of snorkeling at Manta Point, our boat tour continued toward Kanawa Island. 

Kanawa Island’s vibrant coral gardens took me by surprise. I wan’t prepared for the vivid colors of the reef, the plethora of fish or the glassy clarity of the water. The tapestry of colorful coral on the ocean floor was as exotic as that which I had seen in Palau and French Polynesia.

As we explored the offshore reef, we admired the starfish that littered the ocean floor and pointed out the purples, blues and yellows of the coral.

The snorkeling in Komodo National Park left us awestruck.

Even Courtney–who despite having snorkeled and scuba dived her way around much of Southeast Asia for the preceding months–emerged from the waters stating that Kanawa Island had the most exquisite reef she had ever seen.

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Our two-day boat trip from Labuan Bajo, capped off an incredible three weeks of visiting temples, lounging on beaches, hiking volcanoes and admiring wildlife. Not even my upset stomach could get in the way of the sense of elation I felt while Snorkeling in Komodo national park.

And so Dan and I left Indonesia satisfied with our experiences, yet wishing we had longer to visit the country’s natural and historical attractions.

Next time I visit Indonesia, I’ll pick up where I left off and head East–across the large island of Flores and toward Sulawesi, Raja Ampat and Irian Jaya. 

And I know I’ll be back, because in this culturally and geographically diverse archipelago nation,  there are over 17,000 islands that I have yet to explore.

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I don’t know if I truly understood what it meant to be relaxed, until I visited the small Indonesian island of Gili Air.

In our increasingly hectic and fast-paced world, Gili Air is a place where one can take a step back from the frenetic tempo of modern life and learn a bit about the art of doing nothing or, as the Italians like to say, il dolce far niente. Even the sense of peace and tranquility that I found in Bali, couldn’t compare to that which I felt while looking out at the coral-strewn beaches of Gili Air and watching the tide slowly inch its way up the shore and back down again.

Relaxing is just about the only thing to do on Gili Air. And that is what makes the island so special.

THE GILI ISLANDS IN INDONESIA

Gili Air is one of three tiny islands that sit off the coast of mainland Lombok. The three Gili Islands—Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air—are popular tourist destinations that each have their own distinct character.

To reach Gili Air, Courtney and I bought a combination bus and boat pass from Ubud for about eighteen dollars and joined the throngs of other backpackers who were making their way toward the Gilis for a few days of sun and sand.

Nearly everybody we met along the way was traveling to Gili Trawangan, also known as Gili T. Gili T is the largest of the islands and the most popular among young tourists. From what we’d heard, it also has the best parties and nightlife.

With that in mind, Courtney and I chose to skip out on the popular Gili T and head, instead, toward the sleepy and laid-back Gili Air.

A stone’s throw away from the honeymooner’s retreat of Gili Meno and the party mecca of Gili T, Gili Air is characterized more by its lack of things to do and see, than by its plethora of activities and attractions.

THINGS TO DO IN GILI AIR

We chose to stay on Gili Air for three days—relishing the sense of peace and quiet that is so elusive in the frenzied chaos of the world’s fourth most populous country.

Dan decided to fly to Indonesia last-minute to join me and Courtney for the remainder of our trip. It was wonderful to see him again and to share stories of our adventures to Borobudur, Mount Bromo, and the Dieng Plateau.

We spent our afternoons lounging around, chatting with fellow travelers and taking frequent swims. Then, in the evenings, we would make our way to the northwest corner of the island to see the sky illuminate in a spectacular display of color.

• EXPLORE GILI AIR ON FOOT OR BY BIKE

Gili Air does not contain any cars. Nor does it have any roads. To get around the island, one can either walk, ride a bicycle or take a horse-drawn cart on a network of crisscrossing, sandy paths.

This sense of tranquility gives the island a nostalgic feeling of being stuck in time.

• RELAX OR SNORKEL ON THE BEACH

Though the beaches of Gili Air are beautiful and the waters are warm, the sand is nowhere near as powdery as that of the San Blas Islands and the water almost looked murky in comparison to that of French Polynesia. The offshore reef, too, had difficulty comparing to some of the other places I’d visited in my travels. Instead, the ocean floor immediately surrounding Gili Air was covered in a blanket of short grasses and reeds.

I’d heard that, away from the beaches, swarms of tropical fish and sea turtles inhabit the warm waters of the Gilis. If we wanted to take advantage of the surrounding underwater world, we could have joined a snorkeling excursion or tried our hands at diving. We chose not to.

It didn’t matter that Gili Air’s beaches were strewn with sharp coral, or that the island lacked a ring of colorful reef. They may not be the most striking beaches in Lombok, but we didn’t go to Gili Air in search of the world’s most beautiful beach. Nor did we go to Gili Air for the snorkeling. The magnificent snorkeling would come later in our travels, during our visit to Komodo Island.

Our time on Gili Air was simply about relaxing, enjoying the quiet island lifestyle, and soaking up the sun on a nearly empty stretch of sand.

• ADMIRE THE PHENOMENAL GILI AIR SUNSETS

Gili Air sunsets are special and, every night, the sky put on a show for us that was more beautiful and vibrant than the last. I hadn’t seen such intense sunsets since leaving Namibia.

Each evening, when the water levels retreated, the low tide exposed a patchwork of seagrass and shallow water that extended out to the island’s natural breakwater. Shielded by the largely exposed barrier, the shallow water around Gili Air formed a glassy surface that reflected the colorful sky in near-perfect symmetry.

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During the three nights that we spent on Gili Air, we relished the lack of activities that the sleepy island has to offer.

Sure, activity-starved travelers can join yoga classes, sign up for cooking classes, or take boat trips to the surrounding islands. But really, tours and classes aren’t part of the island’s main draw. At least in my opinion.

Instead, the island is best experienced by sitting on the beach with drink in hand, watching the waves lap gently against the shore, and admiring the sunset as it paints the sky in a tapestry of brilliant colors.

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Sitting smack in the middle of the Indonesian Archipelago and sandwiched between Java and Lombok, the achingly beautiful island of Bali is, without a doubt, Indonesia’s number one tourist attraction. Bali’s beaches, verdant scenery and cultural relics have fueled the island’s popularity and turned it into a mecca for those seeking relaxation, yoga and healing. Bali’s spirituality is palpable and the island’s intricately carved Hindu temples are everywhere—on street corners, between houses and even in individual yards. It is no wonder they call Bali the island of 1000 temples.

Yet, despite often being associated with paradise, the island sometimes has a reputation for being trashed and overrun by partying tourists. Before visiting Indonesia, I’d heard accounts of the island being dirty, crowded and overly commercialized. It immediately became apparent that Bali is an island of two stories: that of a tropical refuge from modern life, as well as that of beach clubs, booze and party-till-you-drop nightlife.

 Courtney and I decided to travel to Bali ourselves, to see which version of the story we would find.

Bali: Beautiful Island Sanctuary or Overcrowded Tourist Trap?

Heeding the advice of other travelers, we steered clear of Kuta’s resorts and beaches and headed straight to Ubud–a center of healing and culture that exploded in popularity after the publication of Elizabeth Gilbert’s novel, Eat, Pray, Love. Ubud draws backpackers and luxury travelers who are seeking a few days of relaxation and meditation. The small city is chock-a-block full of restaurants, yoga retreats, spas a wide array of accommodation options. 

After two tiring night hikes up Mount Bromo and the Kawah Ijen Volcano, Courtney and I were ready to pamper ourselves a bit. We were ready for clean sheets and a warm shower.

We chose to stay at the Bening Bungalows during our three nights in Ubud and were rewarded with our own little slice of paradise. Tucked away in the rice paddies behind one of the main streets in Ubud, the bungalows are a perfect retreat from the stresses of modern life. 

Though there are countless things to do in Bali, we spent the majority of our first full day on the island lounging in bed and listening to the orchestra of croaking frogs in the surrounding rice paddies. In the afternoon, we filled our stomachs with delicious food, threw back a few Bintangs and headed to the spa for much-needed, hour-long massages.

When we finally mustered up the energy to explore some of Bali’s cultural relics, our fist stop was the Sacred Monkey Forest in Ubud–a touristy nature reserve and temple complex that is home to four species of Balinese macaques. 

The Monkey Forest Complex is a sanctuary that houses three Hindu temples dating back to 1350, as well as over 100 species of trees. The monkeys that inhabit the forest, though cute, are far more mischievous than they appear. They are cunning and aggressive, much like the baboons at Victoria Falls in Zambia.

We kept our distance from the frisky primates and admired our surroundings with caution–exploring the intricate temples and forested pathways. A ravine cuts through the sanctuary, flanked by dense forests and tangled vines.

After our visit to the Monkey Forest, Courtney and I were finally ready to explore some of the other cultural relics on the island of 1000 temples. So the next day, we teamed up with two girls we had met in Yogyakarta and hired a driver to take us to some of the most beautiful temples in Bali. We negotiated a price of 600,000Rp for the day (approximately $42USD for the four of us) and organized a day trip to three of the island’s most prominent temples. Our first stop was the Sangeh Monkey Forest.

Though Ubud’s Monkey Forest is one of Bali’s most popular attractions, it is not the only place that is famous for its troops of cunning primates. The Sangeh Forest, too, is home to bands of mischievous monkeys. My three companions and I enjoyed meandering through the groves of tall trees and watching the monkeys frolic up the swinging vines. The monkeys were cute, and we enjoyed photographing them.

That is, until we got too close to their babies and they chased us into a corner, hissed at us with barred teeth and attempted to bite at our ankles. We escaped unscathed, but barely.

It was an important reminder that the monkeys, though fun to watch and photograph, are wild animals. Thus, they should be treated as such.

From the Sangeh Monkey Forest, our driver took us to the Ulun Danu Bratan Temple. Built in 1633, the picturesque temple is used for offerings to the Balinese water goddess, Dewi Danu. It is one of Indonesia’s most iconic temples and is featured on the country’s 50,000Rp banknote.

Ulun Danu Bratan sits peacefully on the waters of Lake Bratan. The smooth, reflective surface of the lake gives the temple a unique floating impression, while the forested mountains encircling the lake provide a scenic backdrop.

Our day trip around Bali allowed us to get a taste of island life and admire the island’s verdant scenery at our own pace. For lunch, we decided to stop at a restaurant overlooking the rice terraces and followed our meal with a short stroll through the layered fields of rippling grasses. Though the grasses were mostly overgrown and colored in a burnt yellow when we visited, the scenery was beautiful.

Our tour ended with a visit to what is perhaps Bali’s most prominent temple—Tanah Lot. The Tanah Lot Temple sits in the middle of the ocean on a rocky outcrop. Though the temple is crowded and touristy, it is undoubtedly among Bali’s not-to-be-missed icons.

From Tanah Lot, one can see the long sweep of rocky seashore, as well as the smaller Batu Bolong Temple that is perched atop a natural sea arch. 

We wrestled our way through crowds of people and found a perfect spot to watch the crashing waves and setting sun.

Bali evokes images of paradise and, after our tour to some of Bali’s most beautiful temples, Courtney and I could certainly see why. There is so much to do on the island that one could easily come for a few days and end up spending weeks.

By skipping Kuta and the Southern Coast, we saw no traces of the dirty and overly-commercialized island that I’d heard so many complain about.

Instead, we found a little slice of heaven on the resplendent island and enjoyed a few days of pampering, relaxation and sightseeing. Our stay on the island of 1000 temples rejuvenated us mentally and physically–allowing us to finally recover from our long and tiring journey across Java.

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Further Reading:

• Kirstie’s Bali travel guide contains additional information on places to eat, accommodation options and things to see while traveling in Bali.
• Those interested in discovering some of Bali’s off-beat activities, might want to check out Luke’s post on exploring the island on a VW Safari Tour.
• After hiking up Kawah Ijen and Mount Bromo, Courtney and I decided to skip Mount Batur. However, those planning on visiting Bali’s iconic volcano, may want to read Chloe’s post on hiking up Mount Batur to see the sunrise.
• Those looking for a more immersive experience, may want to read about things to do with locals in Bali.
• Java is a predominantly Muslim island and locals tend to dress more conservatively than on the islands of Bali or Flores. I recommend you visit Sher’s post for more information on what to wear in Indonesia.

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I first heard about the Kawah Ijen Volcano during an episode of Human Planet. The video clip featured a scene in which miners, undertaking one of the most hazardous jobs on Earth, hauled chunks of yellow sulphur out of the depths of an active volcano.

The video footage of their harrowing journey was captivating. And I was mesmerized by the scenes that unfolded in front of me on TV.

In the months and years that followed, images of Kawah Ijen’s blue fire, its sulphur miners and its turquoise lake remained imprinted on my mind.

So when I had the chance to visit the volcano in person during a trip to Indonesia, I knew it was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.

THE KAWAH IJEN VOLCANO

Kawah Ijen is an active volcano on the east side of Java. The mountain last erupted in 1999, but it still blows plumes of smoke and gas into the skies every day.

The Kawah Ijan Volcano is a top Southeast Asia bucket list destination and one of Indonesia’s most enticing natural attractions. Like nearby Mount Bromo and the craters of the Dieng Plateau, the billowing mountain puts Indonesia’s volcanic origins on bold display.

Within the rim of Kawah Ijen’s crater, you’ll find the biggest acid lake in the world, blue flames caused by the burning of the sulphur gasses and one of the last still-operational sulphur mines in the world.

It is an incredible place to visit.

KAWAH IJEN SUNRISE TOUR

Most tours of Kawah Ijen leave from nearby Banyuwangi, but you can also find volcano tour packages from Bali and Yogyakarta.

Our tour to Kawah Ijen was essentially part of a package that we purchased at our hostel near Borobudur. It included transportation from Yogyakarta, guided tours of both Mount Bromo and Kawah Ijen, and onward travel to Bali.

In all honesty, I do not even know which company I traveled with. All of the operators seemed to offer similar package options for budget travelers.

Since the Kawah Ijen’s famous blue fire can only be seen in the dark, volcano tours begin in the wee hours of the morning. If you want to ensure views of the blue fire, double check the tour’s departure time. Booking the earliest possible tour will maximize your chances of seeing the sapphire flames before the sunrise conceals them from view.

Our van driver picked us up from our hotel at midnight and brought us directly to the trailhead. From there, a guide provided us each with gas masks and led us up a well-marked trail to the lip of the Ijen Crater.

THE IJEN VOLCANO’S BLUE FIRE

The Kawah Ijen Volcano is famous for its lakeside solfatara that emits sulfuric gases. The flames are difficult to see during the day, but they illuminate the landscape at night.

Though it is often mistaken for blue lava, Ijen’s electric blue fire is actually the result of sulphuric gases that ignite as they make contact with the air outside the volcano.

We only spent a few minutes by the fire before making our way out of the crater and away from the smothering smoke–coughing and gasping for air.

As my travel companions and I knelt down to take a few photos, winds blew the smoke in all directions and nearly suffocated us. Even with my gas mask, there were moments in which the toxic fumes enveloped me so intensely that I began to panic.

In moments when the smoke subsided, however, my fear gave way to amazement.

I couldn’t believe my eyes when I first caught a glimpse of Kawah Ijen’s blue flames.

THE KAWAH IJEN VOLCANO SUNRISE

Since guided hikes up the Ijen Volcano begin so early in the morning, sunrise-viewing is usually one of the last stops on tour agendas.

The hike to the lip of Ijen’s crater takes between 1-2 hours, depending on fitness level. We managed to complete the hike in around 60 minutes, which gave us plenty of time to admire the blue fire at our leisure before sunrise.

We witnessed the sun’s ascension from the lip of the Ijen crater. It illuminated our surroundings—revealing the stunning turquoise lake and shedding light on the sulphur miners going about their strenuous work.

If you don’t plan on hiking into the crater to see the blue fire, you can probably begin your hike up Kawah Ijen at around 3am.

KAWAH IJEN CRATER LAKE

The summit of Kawah Ijen showcases views of the crater and its large acid lake. The lake boasts a unique turquoise color that contrasts with the area’s sulphur-infused rocks.

Though most tourists visit the volcano in order to witness the blue fire and sulphur miners, Kawah Ijen’s milky turquoise lake makes for a photo-worthy backdrop.

Kawah Ijen’s crater lake is the world’s largest highly acidic lake. With a PH level of .5, its mineral-rich water is more acidic than battery acid.

SULFUR MINING IN THE IJEN VOLCANO

When the sulfuric steam rises out of the fumaroles and into the cold air, it condenses, falls to the ground in liquid form and eventually solidifies into mineral sulfur.

Each night, sulfur miners work in the dark, using metal poles to break large chunks of yellow sulfur off the crater floor. Few jobs in the world are more hazardous. The workers labor in complete darkness, surrounded by poisonous smoke that belches out of the crater.

And yet, the miners often descend into the volcano with little more than a rag over their mouths and noses. They carry up to 200 pounds on their backs and make the arduous trek in and out of the crater twice a day. It is a back-breaking journey. Literally. And all for roughly $13 per day.

KAWAH IJEN SAFETY TIPS

Visiting Ijen is perfectly safe, as long as you follow general precautions. Make sure you have a good headlamp, gas mask, and proper hiking shoes. Gas masks are available to rent at the start of the hike, though most tours include them as part of their fees.

All that being said, if you have asthma or any health problems that inhibit breathing or mobility, I suggest skipping the blue flames and enjoying the lake from above.

VISITING KAWAH IJEN WITHOUT A TOUR

It is possible to hike Kawah Ijen without a tour and I seriously debated going solo after the chaotic sunrise-viewing tour in Bromo.

But in the end, we decided to hike the mountain with a guide. Our guide helped us navigate the lamplit trail and ensured our safety as we entered the area of toxic gases.

While visiting Mount Bromo without a guide might mean you can avoid the crowds, I discourage you from trying to take the path less traveled at Kawah Ijen. The volcano is highly active and potentially dangerous. You’ll want to be around people who know what they’re doing. Plus, everyone in Ijen follows the same path, so you won’t necessarily escape the crowds by going solo.

If you choose to visit Kawah Ijen without a tour, I suggest you follow in the footsteps of other visitors and their guides.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR IJEN

There are a handful of different budget accommodation options in Banyuwangi. Our tour included basic rooms at a homestay, but it was certainly nothing to write home about. If you’re looking to book a cheap room near the volcano, the Snooze Ijen appears to be a fantastic option. It is clean, has stellar reviews, and boasts a garden and shared kitchen.

For a totally unique experience, consider staying at the Kunang Kunang Tent Resort. Though expensive for Indonesia, it is still quite reasonable by international standards. It offers free bikes and clean dome-shaped rooms with views of the surrounding jungle.

GETTING TO KAWAH IJEN

Banyuwangi is the closest city to Mount Ijen. The Javanese city lies about 1.5 hours away from the start of the Kawah Ijen trail. It is the most common place to stay when visiting the volcano.

To get to Banyuwangi from Bali you will need to take a ferry. The ferry to East Java departs from Gilimanuk—a small port town on the west side of Bali.

If you’re already elsewhere in Java, you can get to Banyuwangi by train or bus.

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Hiking the Kawah Ijen volcano was a highlight of my trip to Indonesia. It was an epic adventure that kept my eyes peeled open and my adrenaline pumping.

From observing one of the world’s most dangerous jobs to admiring a wall of blue flames, the hike into the depths of Kawah Ijen is an experience I’m unlikely to forget.

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Java is a land born from volcanic fire.

On the island alone, there are 112 volcanoes, 35 of which are active. These unpredictable mountains of lava and ash have sculpted Java’s wild and mountainous landscape. The Indonesian island teems with fertile highlands, steamy jungles, cloud-ringed cinder cones, and billowing craters.

Perhaps the most emblematic of these Javanese peaks is Mount Bromo. With its puffing smoke and sea of undulating sand, the volcano puts Indonesia’s natural beauty on display in dramatic fashion.

BROMO TENGGER SEMERU NATIONAL PARK

Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park in East Java contains five active peaks in close proximity. These conical peaks dot a lunar landscape that has sprung from the ancient Tengger caldera.

Forming a backdrop to the park’s classic viewpoint lies Mount Semeru. The 12,000 ft conical volcano rises regally above the surrounding landscape. It is the tallest mountain in Java.

In the foreground, smoldering Bromo thunders and fumes. It emerges from the floor of the crater, as if erupting from a billowing sand sea.

MOUNT BROMO TOURS

I visited the famous Indonesia landmark in June with my friend, Courtney. We chose to travel to the volcano as part of an organized transportation package from our hostel in Yogyakarta.

There are countless agencies offering Mount Bromo sunrise tours and, to be completely honest, I’m not even sure which company we chose. Most tour agencies seem to offer the same product: transport to Cemoro Lawang, accommodation, a 3am Jeep ride to see the sunrise, transport to the Bromo crater and then a ride back to Probolinggo.

I originally wanted to visit Mount Bromo independently, without a tour. But after arriving in Cemoro Lewang exhausted and ill-prepared, my travel companion and I opted to add the sunrise tour to our transportation package.

So at 3am, we piled into a Jeep and followed hundreds of similar vehicles up the mountainside in a cloud of exhaust. When we reached the viewpoint, throngs of tourists were already practically piled on top of each other—selfie sticks in the air—waiting for the volcano to reveal itself.

MOUNT BROMO SUNRISE

In complete darkness, Courtney and I carved out a little space in the crowd and waited for the sun to emerge.

As the minutes ticked by, the sky slowly lightened and I began to see the shapes of the mountains form. With time, the faint outlines of volcanic ridges grew bolder and bolder. The rising sun cast a golden light on the volcano.

The view took my breath away. It was stunning. Awe-inspiring. Majestic.

Viewing the Mount Bromo volcano at sunrise may be cliche and overdone, but it is absolutely worthwhile. Even if you have to endure a bumper-to-bumper Jeep ride up a mountain in order to witness it.

MOUNT BROMO CRATER HIKE

Following sunrise, our Jeep tour dropped us off at the beginning of the Bromo crater hike. The hike to the lip of the crater took us around half an hour, roundtrip.

The short hike to the crater of Mount Bromo crosses a sea of undulating sand, a Hindu temple and a smaller volcanic peak with wave-like ridges.

The hike to Mount Bromo’s crater brought us face to face with the volcano’s power. Like the active Masaya Volcano in Nicaragua, I saw smoke rising from Mount Bromo’s bowl-shaped cavity and could hear its thundering roar. The sound was deafening.

Though I’d hiked up volcanoes before, knowing how active Indonesia’s volcanoes have been in recent years, nearly had me sprinting down the mountainside with every audible rumble.

Staring into the fuming crater was awesome. It was powerful. It rattled me and shook me and pumped my adrenaline a million miles a minute. I was exhausted from my long journey and from lack of sleep, yet I was also exhilarated, awestruck and full of wonder.

And suddenly, the long and tiring bus ride from Yogyakarta to Mount Bromo, seemed like nothing more than a minor inconvenience.

VISITING MOUNT BROMO WITHOUT A TOUR

Though tours are certainly a popular way of exploring Mount Bromo, many travelers visit the volcano independently. Courtney and I had originally planned on visiting the volcano on a DIY adventure, too.

Our original plan was to arrive in Cemoro Lawang with plenty of time to figure out how to hike Mount Bromo the following day. Our nine hour bus ride from Yogyakarta was slated to get in at around 4pm, giving us an entire evening to prepare for our adventure.

Yet, as often happens with budget overland travel in developing countries, things didn’t exactly go as planned.

Seventeen hours and two flat tires later, we finally reached Cemoro Lawang at midnight–exhausted, frustrated and nearly defeated.

To enter the park without paying the entrance fee, you can take a secret passage near the Hotel Cemara Indah. The passage to the right of the hotel parking leads to the crater hike.

For the classic Mount Bromo sunrise viewpoints, pass the hotel and continue to the right. The path leads uphill, to various lookouts on Mount Penanjakan.

Reports I’ve read recommend watching the sunrise from King Kong Hill. The view from King Kong is said to be comparable to that which we visited on the Jeep tour, but has far fewer tourists.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR MOUNT BROMO

Our Mount Bromo tour came with accommodation options that ranged from basic to midrange. Courtney and I chose the cheapest package and realized immediately that it meant we would spend the night breathing through our mouths and laying on towels to create a barrier between us and the bed.

Trying not to think about the bugs, the stench of stagnant urine or the musty sheets, we bundled up in all our warmest clothes and collapsed for two hours of sleep.

I am not exaggerating when I say that our guesthouse in Cemoro Lawang was the worst place I’ve ever stayed.

Homestays are the most prolific accommodation option in Cemoro Lawang. Many of these guesthouses are bookable online but have average-to-poor reviews.

Aside from homestays, there are a few decent-looking places to stay near Bromo. The Plataran Bromo offers a higher end option, as does the Jiwa Jawa Resort.

GETTING TO MOUNT BROMO

The easiest way to get to Mount Bromo is by flying into Surabaya’s Juanda International Airport. From there, private cars or shared minibus can take you to Cemoro Lawang via Probolinggo.

I traveled to Cemoro Lawang from Yogyakarta by bus. It was a grueling journey that took 17 hours. Alternatively, you can take the train from Yogyakarta to Probolinggo. Had I known better, I would have opted to travel by rail.

WHEN TO VISIT MOUNT BROMO

The best time to visit Mount Bromo is during the dry season, which runs from May to October. During this time, lower levels of precipitation make for ideal hiking and sightseeing. Additionally, the skies tend to be clearer, offering unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains and the famous sunrise.

I visited the Mount Bromo Volcano in June. During my visit, I experienced both the pros and cons of travel in the high season: good weather, and intense crowds.

****

Indonesia is a land of fire. It is raw and wild and full of drama.

The Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park is one of the most remarkable places to visit in Indonesia. Alongside the volcanoes of Kawah Ijen, Mount Merapi and the Dieng Plateau, it showcases the island’s turbulent volcanic legacy.

The logistics around our visit to Mount Bromo weren’t ideal. We were exhausted from an uncomfortable 17 hour bus ride and had just stayed in the filthiest hotel I’d ever set foot in.

And still, my memories of Mount Bromo are overwhelmingly positive.

In fact, witnessing the Mount Bromo sunrise was so magical, that I wouldn’t hesitate to repeat the experience again and again and again—bus ride and all.

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When people think of Indonesia, their imaginations usually take them straight to Bali and its abundance of ornate Hindu temples.

But high up in Dieng Plateau of Central Java, a much more off-the-beaten path adventure awaits that can be equally rewarding.

The name “Dieng” means Abode of the Gods and there are clusters of ancient temples—most dating back to the 8th and 9th centuries—that sit nestled in the area’s verdant hillsides.

In the Dieng Plateau, the cultural and geographical riches rival those you’ll see in Bali.

But there’s one major difference: you won’t find the crowds.

DIENG PLATEAU IN JAVA

The Dieng Plateau sits high in the mountains of Java. The area is home to sparkling turquoise lakes, craters spewing sulphuric gases and some of the oldest Hindu architecture in Indonesia.

Our Dieng Plateau day trip took us through lush mountainsides boasting tremendous natural beauty.

As we made our way out of Yogyakarta’s chaotic traffic, we began snaking our way up precipitous mountain roads. Along the drive, I gaped at the rows of rice fields, the sweeping vistas, and the picture-perfect villages clinging to the terraced hillsides.

Since Java’s population density ranks as one of the highest in the world, farmers have taken advantage of every inch of arable land by carving terraces into the mountainsides.

The Dieng Plateau’s rich volcanic soil makes the area ideal for farming and growing crops. Potato and tobacco plantations lie draped over the plateau’s mountainous landscape like a patchwork quilt.

It is an incredible area and I’m surprised it has managed to dodge the hoards of backpackers that descend on the Banana Pancake Trail every year.

VISITING THE DIENG PLATEAU IN ONE DAY

A Dieng Plateau day trip was not part of my original Indonesia itinerary.

Yet, when my travel companion’s bout of food poisoning forced us to stay in Yogyakarta for an extra day, I decided to explore the surrounding countryside with a friendly Brit from my hostel.

The plateau was merely a blip on my radar, so I didn’t think twice about spending only one day in its mist-shrouded highlands.

Despite the area’s proximity to Yogyakarta, however, I soon learned that the Dieng Plateau takes a while to reach. During our day trip, we clocked in nearly four hours of driving each way. I only recommend visiting the area as a day trip if you are short on time.

If you have a flexible enough itinerary to do the area justice, I would suggest spending at least two days in the Dieng Plateau.

• TWIN LAKES: TELAGA WARNA AND TELAGA PENGILON

An undeniable highlight of the area is the scenic trail that winds around the twin lakes of Telaga Warna and Telaga Pengilon (known to foreigners as Mirror Lake and Color Lake).

We payed the $7 tourist fee and hiked the trails around the lakeshore. From a rocky ledge above the lakes, we had a spectacular view of the adjacent bodies of water.

On a sunny day, Color Lake reveals shades of yellow, blue, turquoise and brown, while Mirror Lake’s glassy surface reflects a perfect image of the sky.

All around, a velvety patchwork of saturated colors forms a scenic backdrop.

• KAWAH SIKIDANG CRATER

The next stop on our Dieng Plateau day trip was a visit to the steaming Kawah Sikidang Crater.

Java lies along the Pacific’s Ring of Fire and the island is almost entirely of volcanic origin. It contains 45 active volcanoes—including majestic Mt Bromo and Kawah Ijen. These volcanoes have played a vital role in the geological and human history of Java and have contributed greatly to the island’s fertile soil.

While the Kawah Sikidang Crater is small in comparison to some of Java’s other geological sites, it is well worth visiting. The area is reminiscent to a miniature version of America’s Yellowstone, or Iceland’s Haukadalur.

A trail takes visitors past rows of food stalls to the main fumaroles and mud pots in the area. Typical of geologically active sites, the air around the crater smells of sulfur. I soon realized that the flimsy medical face masks we had bought at the entrance to the park would do little to diffuse the pungent smell of rotting eggs.

So we plugged our noses and walked around the steaming craters–admiring the greens and oranges and grays of the surrounding scenery.

• ARJUNA TEMPLE COMPLEX

The plateau is home to a small cluster of Hindu temples. While estimates suggest that the temples once numbered in the hundreds, only eight remain today. The temples show many features of Indian Hindu temple architecture.

Entrance to the Sikidang Crater includes a visit to the nearby Arjuna Complex. The Arjuna Temple Complex is not as imposing as that of Prambanan. Nor is it as ornate as the Hindu temples found in Bali.

Yet, the area’s small concentration of shrines predates most other religious structures in Indonesia.

The temples that lie nestled among the Dieng Plateau’s potato fields are the oldest ruins in Java. Estimates suggest that they date back to the 7th and 8th centuries.

TOURISM IN THE DIENG PLATEAU

After staying largely on the tourist trail during my visits to Singapore and Yogyakarta, traveling through the picturesque mountain villages of the Dieng Plateau brought me an off-the-beaten-path experience I craved.

In fact, during my entire Dieng Plateau day trip, I only saw one other Western traveler. The majority of tourists in the area were groups of Indonesian families and schoolchildren who were eager to take our photos and get their own pictures taken in return.

There really isn’t a ton of information on independent travel to the Dieng Plateau. If you’re looking to organize something in advance, you can find various bookable tours online. These excursions from Yogyakarta to the Dieng Plateau run between $30-70 per person and all cover the same stops that I visited during my day trip.

I was able to organize a day trip to the plateau through my hostel. For about $40 per person, my travel companion and I hired a private driver who took us around the area’s top tourist sites for the day.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE DIENG PLATEAU

Most visitors to the Dieng Plateau choose to stay in either Dieng or Wanosobo. The area has a limited number of accommodation options, most of which are homestays.

Pondok Bamboo Sendangsari, bookable online, appears to be a decent homestay option between Wanosobo and Dieng. Homestay Banteng Adventure also looks basic, yet promising.

From what I understand, a number of other options exist that are not searchable or bookable online.

*****

My Dieng Plateau day trip from Yogyakarta was not planned. It wasn’t pre-booked or mapped out or anticipated in any way.

In fact, before visiting Indonesia, I never even knew the volcanic, mist-shrouded region existed.

Yet it is for discoveries like the Dieng Plateau, that I like to keep my travel plans relatively open-ended. For you never know what unexpected destinations you might discover by chance or word of mouth.

Had I stuck to a rigid plan, I probably would never had made it to the Dieng Plateau.

And that would have been a shame.

Because the mist-shrouded off-the-beaten-path destination in Central Java ended up being one of my favorite places in all of Southeast Asia.

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Though Indonesia is the most populous Muslim country on Earth, the archipelago nation has a deeply-rooted, multi-religious history.

It is a place where minarets share space with Buddha-clad temples and richly-decorated Hindu shrines.

Indonesia’s rich religious heritage is particularly apparent in the cultural capital of Yogyakarta (also known as Jogja), where the iconic temples of Borobudur and Prambanan rise from the bottle-green hills of central Java.

THE YOGYAKARTA TEMPLES

Bali may be the land of 1,000 temples, but Yogyakarta is arguably home to Indonesia’s most impressive religious monuments. Dozens of temples litter the Javanese city of Yogyakarta, showcasing the island’s rich heritage. 

Today, while almost 100 percent of Java’s population adheres to Islam, the island’s two main religious sites—Borobudur and Pramban—are Buddhist and Hindu respectively.

The magnificent Yogyakarta temples lie along a popular Java tourist circuit that includes Mount Bromo and the Kawah Ijen Volcano.

They are among the grandest cultural icons of Southeast Asia.

THE BUDDHIST BOROBUDUR TEMPLE

Borobudur is the world’s largest single Buddhist structure. It is, without a doubt, the #1 thing to see in Yogyakarta.

Together with Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Ayutthaya in Thailand and Bagan in Myanmar, Borobudur is a top bucket list destination for Asian history and archaeology buffs. 

The beautiful temple boasts a dramatic backdrop of mist-shrouded volcanoes and mountains. It is impressive in both its grandeur and its detail.

Borobudur dates back to the 9th century’s Sailendra Dynasty. In the 14th century, as the region slowly started to convert to Islam, the temple of Borobudur became abandoned.

VISITING BOROBUDUR FROM BOTTOM TO TOP

The Mahayana Buddhist temple of Borobudur is a giant allegory for enlightenment.

Visits to Borobudur begin at the base of the temple and continue upward, through three levels of Buddhist cosmology.

Reliefs along the temple’s lowest level depict a world driven by passion and desire (Kamadhatu). Layers of narrow corridors take visitors past thousands of decorative panels that contain illustrations of Buddhist doctrines and images of daily Javanese life. As the levels spiral upward, the depictions progress to Rupadhatu (world of forms) and Arupadhatu (world of formlessness).

Buddhist pilgrims starts at the bottom and move upward after deciphering each relief. The interpretations progressively get harder until you reach the top and—in theory—become enlightened.

Seventy-two bell-shaped stupas lie at the top of Borobudur, each concealing statues of the Buddha. And in these stupas, each Buddha has a different hand gesture, or mudra. These mudras represent the five compass points in Buddhism–North, South, East, West and Zenith.

Despite its historic and religious importance, Borobudur was only re-discovered in the late 1800s, after laying hidden for centuries under a blanket of tangled vines and volcanic ash.

Today, after a lengthy restoration, it is considered to be one of the greatest temples on Earth.

VISITING BOROBUDUR AT SUNRISE

Like many temples in Southeast Asia, Borobudur is especially popular to visit at sunrise. Loads of travelers descend on the temple at the crack of dawn to watch the emerge from behind the stupas of the world’s largest religious structure.

Vsiting Borobudur at sunrise requires special tickets.

We chose not to visit the temple at sunrise. Though I’m sure that sunrise at Borobudur would have been lovely (albeit crowded), I don’t feel like we particularly missed out.

GETTING TO BOROBUDUR

In Indonesia, Grab is a cheap and easy way of getting around. Like Uber or Lyft, it is an app that matches you with local drivers.

Though I used a regular taxi to go between Yogyakarta and Borobudur, my parents traveled to Indonesia recently and spoke very highly of their experience with the rideshare app.

For adventurous travelers, getting to Borobudur by bus is certainly an option. The Trans Jogja service runs from central Yogyakarta to the Jombor bus terminal in northern Yogyakarta. There, you can change to another bus to get to Borobudur.

If you’re traveling to Borobudur as part of an organized tour, your excursion will likely include roundtrip transport.

VISITING THE HINDU PRAMBANAN TEMPLE

Prambanan is somewhat overshadowed by the more internationally renowned Borobudur, but the temple is equally impressive.

Visiting Prambanan is one of the top things to do in Yogyakarta. As the temple only takes a couple hours to see in its entirety, it can easily be bundled into a day trip alongside Borobudur.

Prambanan is primarily Hindu, yet the area consists of over 500 temples that are both Hindu and Buddhist in origin and design.

Thus, Prambanan and its surrounding temples are not only valuable architectural and cultural relics, but also standing proof of past religious cohabitation on Java.

PRAMBANAN TEMPLES

Prambanan’s main temple, Candi Shiva Mahadeva, rises 47 meters above its surroundings. The vibrant reliefs carved onto the inner wall of the gallery illustrate scenes from the Ramayana—a 24,000 verse Hindu epic that recounts the life of Lord Rama and his wife, Sita.

Flanking Candi Shiva’s tower are two slightly smaller temples dedicated to Brahma and Vishnu respectively.

After admiring Candi Shiva , we strayed from the crowds and ventured toward the smaller temples in and around Prambanan—Candi Lumbung, Candi Bubrah and Candi Sewu.

Though the former two lie largely under scaffolding and resemble little more than rock piles, the latter is remarkably well-preserved.

CANDI SEWU NEAR PRAMBANAN

Candi Sewu is the largest and most impressive of the temples surrounding Prambanan. Though it lies merely half a mile from the main Hindu temple complex, Candi Sewu is actually a Buddhist relic. It is the second largest Buddhist temple in Indonesia, after Borobudur.

The eighth century Mahayana Buddhist relic

GETTING TO PRAMBANAN

Prambanan lies just 17km east of Yogyakarta and is easily accessible by public bus. You can take the Trans Jogja bus route 1A to Prambanan temple. It connects the airport with the temples, passing by downtown along the way.

We chose to take a taxi to Prambanan for the purpose of convenience. Grab (similar to Uber) is also a convenient travel option that is ideal for people with Indonesian SIM cards or international data plans.

Alternatively, you can visit Prambanan as part of a tour. Most Prambanan tours include transport to and from Yogyakarta.

PRAMBANAN AND BOROBUDUR: LOGISTICS

WHERE TO STAY IN YOGYAKARTA

I stayed at Bhumi Hostel during my visit to Yogyakarta. As far as hostels go, I found Bhumi to have a wonderful vibe. The staff gave us ample information on Yogyakarta dining, helped us organize a day trip to the Dieng Plateau, and advised us on our onward travels to Bali, Gili Air, and Komodo Island.

Alternatively, the Wonderloft Hostel is another cheap place to stay with great reviews.

If you’re not a hostel person, you’ll find a wide range of other accommodation options in Yogyakarta.

Some of the nicest hotels in Yogyakarta—like the Phoenix Hotel, the Melia Purosani and the Harper Malioboro—are quite inexpensive by international standards and fit most midrange price points.

And if you’re a points collector or you like to stay at internationally-branded hotel chains, you can’t go wrong with Yogyakarta Marriott or Sheraton Mustika Resort.

TOURS OF PRAMBANAN AND BOROBUDUR

Since the Yogyakarta temples are among the top places to see in Indonesia, it comes as no surprise that they’re absolutely packed with tourists.

Local tourists seemed to outnumber international visitors in Yogyakarta. Most tourists consisted of schoolchildren that seemed to find us absolutely fascinating. They were everywhere, taking our photos every which way we turned.

Still, while domestic tourism brought the largest crowds, international travelers were far from an anomaly. Tourism is a huge industry in Yogyakarta and there are plenty of organized tours of the area that cater to English-speaking travelers.

Online, you can find sunrise tours of Borobudur, combination group tours of Borobudur and Prambanan, and private comprehensive tours that include both iconic temples and the Merapi Volcano.

BOROBUDUR AND PRAMBANAN ENTRANCE TICKETS

Entrance tickets cost $25 USD per person for each temple or $45 for a combination ticket. The price is steep by Indonesian standards but, considering the importance of the two Yogyakarta temples, it is no doubt worth paying.

The Borobudur entrance fee does not include visits before sunrise.

An additional fee ($35) grants you access to the temple as the sun emerges from behind the surrounding jungle.

OTHER YOGYAKARTA TEMPLES

Though Borobudur and Prambanan are the undisputed highlights of Yogyakarta, there are certainly other noteworthy temples to visit if you have time in your Indonesia itinerary. Other prominent religious heritage sites include the Ratu Boko Temple, Candi Ijo, and the Mendut Temple. 

We did not personally visit Yogyakarta’s smaller temples during our trip to Indonesia. 

GETTING TO AND FROM YOGYAKARTA

Yogyakarta is well connected to destinations around Asia. In addition to a handful of Indonesian cities, Yogya’s airport has year-round direct flights to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and seasonal service to Jeddah and Medina.

As Java’s main tourism hub, Yogyakarta is linked to the rest of the island by train and bus.

From Yogyakarta, we used a combination of buses and ferries to travel onward to Bali, the Gili Islands, and Komodo Island.

WHEN TO VISIT THE PRAMBANAN AND BOROBUDUR TEMPLES

During my visit to Yogyakarta, I experienced both the pros and cons of travel in the high season: good weather, and intense crowds.

The best time to visit Borobudur and Prambanan is during the dry season, from April to October. We visited Indonesia in June and had wonderful weather throughout our entire three week vacation.

Yes, the major tourist sites were crowded.

But we were also able to enjoy ample sunshine, reasonable temperatures, and low humidity.

***

The devastating 2006 earthquake wasn’t the first obstacle threatening the temples of Yogyakarta. Nor will it likely be the last.

To date, the archeological sites have survived a 1985 bombing, vandalism and volcanic eruptions.

On an island that is susceptible to natural disasters, the survival of both Borobudur and Prambanan will take continued effort.

And yet, despite centuries of obstacles thrown their way, the iconic Yogyakarta temples still rise enigmatically from the surrounding jungle—dazzling visitors with their grandeur and standing as a testament to Java’s deep-rooted multi-religious past.

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