Deep under the hills of Italy’s Marche region, you’ll find a subterranean world of delicate calcareous sculptures and fairytale spires.

This ethereal wonderland—known as the Frasassi Caves (or Grotte di Frasassi in Italian)—is one of Europe’s largest cave systems and a highlight of travel to Central Italy.

The Frasassi Caves are rich in whimsical formations. Gouged out by the Sentino River over the course of 150 million years, their sculpted chambers rival the most intricate on Earth.

THE GROTTE DI FRASASSI

The Grotte di Frasassi are located in the Marche Region of Italy, merely 15 minutes from my mom’s hometown of Fabriano.

The caves are an underrated hidden gem. And I’m not saying that because they are in the backyard of the area I played in every summer as a child.

The stalagmite-filled caves are truly incredible. Some of the best I’ve seen in all of my travels (they’re right up there with the Jeita Grotto in Lebanon).

The caves are the defining feature of the Gola di Frasassi—a steep gorge cut by the river.

The karst cave system includes the Cave of the River and the Big Cave of the Wind. Its full name in Italian is Grotta del Fiume–Grotta Grande del Vento di Frasassi.

Commonly, you’ll hear it referred to simply as Frasassi, or Le Grotte.

GEOLOGICAL HISTORY

The Frasassi Caves began forming millions of years ago, thanks to a mix of rainwater and erosion from the sulfurous Sentino River.

Rainwater trickled and seeped through tiny fractures in the limestone hills, gradually widening them. Where the water encountered horizontal fractures, it formed underground streams and excavated long tunnels with connecting caverns.

The mineral-rich waters dissolved the limestone and chiseled subterranean chambers over time.

The karst mountainsides surrounding the Frassassi Gorge conceal an abundance of caves and cavities.

While some of them have been known to the local population for centuries, the massive Frasassi Caves complex is a somewhat recent discovery.

DISCOVERY OF THE FRASASSI CAVES

Frasassi’s subterranean world first opened to the public in 1974, shortly after a group of Italian speleologists from Ancona discovered the caverns on accident.

One day, Maurizio Bolognini was hiking around Monte Frasassi, when he noticed an unusual hole in the mountain.

On a following visit, he and fellow mountaineers were able to dig a tunnel large enough to pass through the hole. Then, using a homemade rope ladder, they descended into the karst abyss.

FRASASSI CAVES TOUR ROUTE

The Frasassi Caves tourist route follows a 1.5 km path through Italy’s subterranean wonderland.

The tour begins in the cavernous Ancona Abyss—the largest cave in Europe. The abyss is so vast that it could easily house the entire Duomo of Milan. This is the place where Bolognini first descended by rope ladder, laying eyes on the 65ft tall stalagmites known as the Giants.

Walking through the Grotte’s dimly-lit underworld is like entering a fantasyland. The intricately-adorned chambers are brimming with calcareous formations. Stalagmites rise from the cave floor like melted candles, while stalactites hang from its ceiling like Spanish moss.

As you progress, you will visit several chambers within the cave system.

Each of these rooms boasts mineral masterpieces.

Noteworthy formations include Niagara Falls—a huge mass made of pure white calcite—and sculptures that resemble castles, bears, organ pipes, camels, and witches.

Toward the end of the tour, you’ll stop by the Hall of Candles—a visually stunning room that features small candle-like stalagmites reflected on glassy pools of water.

FRASASSI CAVES TOURS AND TICKETS

English-language tours of the Frasassi Caves depart at 11:40AM, 1:40PM and 3:40PM daily from mid-May to June. In July and August, there is an additional 5:15PM departure.

During the low season, tours are only in Italian, though English-language audioguides remain available.

The cost of visiting the Frasassi Caves is 18 euros per person.

Until recently, the Grotte di Frasassi didn’t allow personal photography.

As of my last visit, however, the policy seems to have changed.

SPELUNKING IN THE FRASASSI CAVES

Most people visit the Frasassi Caves as part of a standard guided tour.

But if you have an adventurous spirit, you can also choose from two spelunking excursions.

• SPELEO-ADVENTURE BLUE PATH: Aimed at people who are looking to get their feet wet with speleology, the blue path tour is of easy/medium difficulty. The two hour tour includes climbing, drifts, narrow passages and slides.
• SPELEO-ADVENTURE RED PATH: The red path caters to adventure-seekers who have some prior spelunking experience. The tour is three hours long and considered moderately difficult. It includes a rope climb.

Spelunking tours of the Frasassi Caves must be booked in advance. I imagine you’d want to avoid these excursions if you are claustrophobic or uneasy in tight spaces.

OTHER THINGS TO DO IN THE GOLA DELLA ROSSA

Frasassi lies along a beautiful river gorge. It is the centerpiece of the Gola della Rossa Regional Park—a wilderness area that boasts hiking trails, hot springs, historic temples, and picturesque towns.

If you’re a lover of off-the-beaten-path travel, you’ll find plenty of additional things to do in the area.

• TEMPLE OF VALADIER

The Temple of Valadier, commissioned by Pope Leo XII of Genga, was built in 1828. It lies inside a natural cavern in the Gola della Rossa Park, at the end of a 700 meter paved pathway.

The octagonal domed church was entirely built in travertine blocks. Its angular neo-classical silhouette stands in stark contrast to the cavern’s rough walls.

The chapel once housed a marble statue of the Madonna and child, produced by the studio of Antonio Canova.

Today, however, it has been replaced by a replica. Its original can be found in a museum in nearby Genga.

Next to the Valadier Temple is also the Hermitage of Santa Maria Infra Saxa. The small monastery dates back to 1029.

• SAN VITTORE TOWN

San Vittore is the closest town to the Frasassi Caves. It straddles the Sentino River, a few miles from the entrance to the natural monument.

The picturesque small town boasts a Roman bridge and a historic abbey. The abbey—San Vittore alle Chiuse—dates back to the 12th century and contains a mix of the Byzantine and Armenian styles.

In the town you’ll also find a small adventure park with suspended rope bridges and zip lines.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR THE FRASASSI CAVES

The accommodation options near Frasassi are a mix of hotels, agriturismos, and B&Bs. If you’re looking to stay within a few miles of the cave’s entrance, the Hotel le Grotte, the Hotel Terme di Frasassi and B&B Bivacco Frasassi are probably your best bets.

A little bit farther away, you’ll find a wider array of accommodation options.

If you’re looking for a tranquil countryside escape, the Agriturismo Valdifiore offers a rustic retreat with views of the surrounding mountains.

On a hill above Fabriano, La Castellaia boasts a resort-like setting, a swimming pool, and beautiful panoramas of the Apennines.

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If it is your first time traveling to Italy, your itinerary probably consist of stops in Florence, Venice, and Rome. You might even include side trips to the Cinque Terre or the Amalfi Coast.

After all, most Italy travel itineraries (understandably) focus on the same well-trodden tourist routes.

But just a stone’s throw from the romantic hills of Tuscany, lies a beautiful corner of the country that is little-known outside of Italy.

I’ve been fortunate to visit the Marche year after year throughout my life.

And I want to share it with you, too.

Because I promise that if you travel to this beautiful corner of the world, you’ll be rewarded with some of Italy’s most underrated gems—both above-ground and concealed below the surface of its rolling green mountainsides.

The post Guide to the Frasassi Caves in Italy appeared first on Erika's Travels .

The ancient Acropolis of Athens is the beating heart of Greece. Crowned by the Parthenon, its Pentelic marble ruins—visible from nearly  everywhere within the city—tower above the modern Greek capital.

Arguably the most important building in the Western world, it is regarded as the apotheisis of Classical Greek civilization. The Acropolis is the original home of democracy. The birthplace of modern philosophy. The cradle of Western Civilization. One of ancient humanity’s crowning achievements.

And the absolute #1 place to visit in Athens (by a long shot).

THE ACROPOLIS OF GREECE: AN OVERVIEW

Ancient Greek temples lie scattered about the Mediterranean—from Paphos in Cyprus to Agrigento in Sicily, and from Ephesus in Turkey to Butrint in Albania. These temples and monuments are some of the most impressive archaeological sites in Europe.

But none of them are as renowned or as venerated as the Acropolis of Athens.

The term “Acropolis” means “high city.” Perched on a limestone hill above Athens, the Acropolis was once the political and spiritual center of Ancient Greece. It has withstood wars, earthquakes and vandalism throughout its long and storied history.

Today, the UNESCO World Heritage site is home to several temples, including the Parthenon.

When it comes to ancient ruins, the Acropolis walks a path of importance alongside the Roman Colosseum, the Pyramids of Giza near Cairo, Chichen Itza in Mexico, and Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.

For history buffs, few places on Earth can compare.

TOP THINGS TO SEE

If you’ve seen a picture of the Acropolis, chances are that it featured the Parthenon—an enduring symbol of Athens and the most renowned Greek relic in the world. The Parthenon has become so synonymous with the Acropolis, that I’ve often heard the names used interchangeably.

But ‘Acropolis’ refers to the entire archaeological site overlooking Athens. And visiting the Parthenon is just one of many things to do within its boundaries.

I visited Athens for two nights following a trip to the islands of Santorini, Naxos, Paros, and Milos.

With one full day in Athens, my itinerary focused entirely on the Greek monument and its surroundings.

THEATER OF DIONYSUS

The ruined Theatre of Dionysos Eleuthereus sits on the southern slope of the Acropolis. As its name suggests, the theater was dedicated to Dionysus, the Greek god of Drama. Dating back to the 6th century BC, It is the oldest performance venue in ancient Greece.

The Acropolis theater was the stage upon which many famous Greek plays were first performed. Ancient playwrights—among them Sophocles and Euripides—presented their works at the theater during the 5th century BC.

In its heyday, the Theater of Dionysus could seat up to 17,000 people.

ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS (HERODION)

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus appears better preserved than the nearby Theater of Dionysus. Built by Roman senator Herodes Atticus in around 161 AD, it is among the more complete structures in the Acropolis complex.

In 1950, a refurbishment project included the reconstruction of the Herodion’s amphitheater. The project brought the seating to about 5,000.

When we visited the Acropolis, we saw sound equipment on the Herodion’s stage. Bags of trash were strewn about the seats, indicating that there had likely been a performance the day before.

Today, the Herodion remains one of the world’s oldest still-functioning theaters. Some of the world’s leading performers have used it as a stage for their acts. Famous appearances include international legends Luciano Pavarotti, Frank Sinatra, and Elton John.

THE PROPYLAEA

If you come in through the archaeological site’s main entrance gates, the Propylaea is the first structure that you’ll likely encounter. It dominates the western side of the Acropolis—impressing visitors with its colonnaded entryway and stately marble exterior.

The building, dating back to 426BC, serves as the main gateway to the Parthenon and its nearby temples.

The Propylaea’s structure has received numerous modifications throughout antiquity, though it remains unfinished. The zigzagging ramp that leads to the top of the hill was a later Roman addition.

TEMPLE OF ATHENA NIKE

The small colonnaded Temple of Athena Nike lies at the southwestern edge of the Acropolis, adjacent to the Propylaea. One of the smallest temples in the Acropolis, it is notable for its gleaming white exterior.

In 1686, the Turks used chunks of marble from the Temple of Athena to build a fortification against the Venetians. A century and a half later, it was reconstructed….only to be dismantled again shortly after.

In 1998, restorers deconstructed and rebuilt the temple once more in order to replace its crumbling floor and reinforce its structure. Piece by piece, they painstakingly rebuilt it without using corrosive iron. New marble bricks from ancient quarries filled in the gaps.

As a result, the temple’s stones are a much lighter and brighter than those of the surrounding structures.

The boxy Temple of Athena Nike has been largely stripped of its original decor. The four sides of the small temple once boasted detailed bas reliefs illustrating the Greek and Persian wars.

The original reliefs now reside in the Acropolis Museum, alongside many of the archaeological site’s other treasures.

THE ERECHTHEION

While the Parthenon is understandably the most famous monument in the Acropolis, the Erechtheion is arguably its most beautiful. At least in its current form.

Named after Erechtheus, a mythical king of Athens, the temple was dedicated to Athena and Poseidon. It was here (as legend goes) that the god and goddess had a contest for the city’s affections.

On the south porch of the Erechtheion, six carved maidens support the structure. The original statues reside in the Acropolis Museum. They have been substituted by replicas.

The Erechtheion is unique in that its asymmetrical composition doesn’t conform to the canon of Classical Greek architecture. This could be due in part to the fact that the Erechtheion stands on slanted ground. Its structural integrity is a prime example of ancient Ionic ingenuity.

THE PARTHENON

Visiting the Acropolis would not be complete without laying eyes on the Parthenon. Dedicated to the Greek goddess Athena, the Parthenon sits high atop the Acropolis compound. It can be seen from many different vantage points around the city.

One of the most renowned structures in the world, the Parthenon is a resplendent marble temple built during the height of ancient Greek civilization.

At the time of its construction, the Parthenon was the most lavish temple that Greece had ever seen. Throughout the centuries, it has weathered earthquakes, fire, wars, explosions and looting.

Today, scaffolding covers the entire front side of the Parthenon in a metal brace. Original reliefs have been removed from the structure. They now lie in the Acropolis Museum, alongside other treasures uncovered at the archaeological site.

Although battered throughout history and significantly altered due to preservation efforts, the Parthenon remains a powerful and enduring symbol of ancient Greece.

VISITING THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

Visiting Athens and skipping the Acropolis Museum is like going to Cairo and foregoing the Egyptian Museum. Or traveling to Mexico City and bypassing the Museum of Anthropology.

In other words, if you have any inkling of interest in archaeology or ancient history, visiting the Acropolis Museum should be a priority.

This dazzling museum lies at the foot of the Acropolis’ southern slope. It showcases many of the surviving treasures that were removed from the archaeological site for preservation.

In the museum, you can see the original reliefs from the Temple of Athena Nike, as well as the Caryatids from the Erechtheion.

The museum itself is an exemplary work of architecture.  The airy modern building lies upon ruins that can be viewed from above. Floor-to-ceiling windows showcase panoramas of the Acropolis at every level.

VISITING ADDITIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

While the Acropolis is certainly Athens’ crown jewel, it is far from the only historical site of importance.

Surrounding the temple complex, you can find smaller archaeological sites that are also worth touring. Six of these ruins are included in the price of an Acropolis combination ticket.

• THE ANCIENT AGORA

The Ancient Agora was once Athens’ hub of administrative, commercial, political and social activity. A place of assembly, it is where Socrates, Pericles and Plato once walked.

If you have any bandwidth for more ruins after a visit to the Acropolis, you should definitely prioritize the Ancient Agora. The temple of Hephaestus lies at the center of the archaeological site. It is one of the best-preserved temples in Greece.

Tickets to the Ancient Agora will set you back 10 euros, unless you purchase an Acropolis combo ticket.

• THE ROMAN AGORA

The Roman Agora was the site of an ancient market during Roman rule. It occupied a much larger area than what you see today.

Much of the Roman Agora is visible from outside the fence, but it is worth entering the archaeological site for a closer look at the well-preserved Gate of Athena Archegetis, the Ottoman mosque, and the Tower of the Winds.

The site entrance fee is 8 euros per person.

• HADRIAN’S LIBRARY

The ruins of Hadrian’s Library date back to the 2nd century AD. They consist of a library, a music hall, and lecture rooms. The site once resembled a Roman forum, with a central courtyard surrounded by 100 columns.

Much of the archaeological site rests in ruin today. A partially restored wall stands near its entrance.

Two churches—one built in the 12th century and another dating back to the 17th century—also occupy the site.

A stand-alone ticket to Hadrian’s Library costs 6 euros.

• OLYMPIEION

At the center of the Olympieion, lies the colossal Temple of Olympian Zeus. One of the largest temples in Ancient Greece, it outdoes the Parthenon in terms of size. Sixteen of the temple’s 104 original columns are still standing.

In addition to housing a massive temple, the archeological site boasts a Roman bath house, a 5th century basilica, and remnants of the city’s fortification wall.

Just outside the site, standing guard over the vibrant Plaka neighborhood, lies Hadrian’s Arch.

Tickets to the Olympeion will set you back 6 euros.

• KERAMEIKOS

Kerameikos is the site of the oldest and largest Attic cemetery. The archaeological site contains an array of ancient funerary monuments and structures.

The site’s name (“ceramic” in Greek) suggests that the ancient cemetery might have once housed a potter’s quarter.

The 8 euro Kerameikos entrance fee includes access to the site’s archaeological museum.

• ARISTOTLE’S SCHOOL

Aristotle’s School, also known as the Lyceum or Lykeion, is the site of a legendary gymnasium. The archaeological area is best known as being the location of Aristotle’s school of philosophy.

The archaeological site boasts remnants of a large palestra, where athletes once trained in wrestling and boxing.

Today, the Lyceum lies largely in ruin. You’ll have to use your imagination to envision what it once looked like.

Admission costs 4 euros.

VIEWS OF THE ACROPOLIS IN ATHENS

While visiting the Acropolis is certainly worthwhile, it is almost more impressive to view the ancient ruins from a distance.

Luckily, the Greek capital boasts numerous vantage points from which to admire the ancient structures.

During our visit to Athens, we soaked in views of the monument from Areopagus Hill and Philopappos Hill.

• AREOPAGUS HILL

Also known as Mars Hill, Aeropagus lies close to the Acropolis’ main entrance gate. It is a rocky outcrop that is popular for its photogenic views of the Propylaea.

From the Areopagus, you’ll also be able to see the Ancient Agora and the Temple of Hephaestus.

• PHILOPAPPOS HILL

If you’ve got a little more time to explore, I recommend wandering the trails around Philopappos Hill. The verdant area— laced with walking trails and speckled with small churches and monuments—offers a great escape into nature. It lies within easy walking distance of the Parthenon and offers what is arguably Athens’ most impressive Acropolis viewpoint.

The area’s most popular Acropolis photo spot lies at the Monument of Philopappos.

However, it is possible to relish views of the Greek temple from various points in the park.

WHERE TO STAY WHEN VISITING THE ACROPOLIS

There are plenty of great places to stay near the Acropolis in Greece. Many of the best accommodations can be found in the vibrant Plaka neighborhood.

During our brief two day visit to Athens, my family and I rented an apartment near the Acropolis. Since we were traveling as a group of five, a private multi-room home suited our needs.

If you’re traveling Athens on a budget, the Kimon Hotel boasts highly-rated rooms at a reasonable price point. It is well-located and clean, albeit basic.

As a midrange option, 360 Degrees offers clean rooms, a convenient location, and stunning views of the Acropolis from its restaurant.

And if you’re looking to splurge, you might want to consider the Electra Metropolis—with its well-appointed rooms, rooftop pool, and unbeatable views of the Parthenon.

ACROPOLIS ENTRANCE FEES

You can buy your Acropolis tickets either online, or at a kiosk before entering the archaeological site. Tickets to the Acropolis (including the Parthenon and the Erechtheion) cost €20 from April through October and €10 from November through March.

Be advised that buying an entry pass online only enables you to skip queuing at the ticket office.

You can only avoid the entrance line by purchasing a skip-the-line ticket or taking a guided tour.

Combination ticket holders get entry to the Acropolis, as well as six of the other main archaeological sites in Athens: Hadrian’s Library, the Ancient Agora, the Roman Agora, the Archaeological Site of Lykeion, Kerameikos and the Olympieion.

A combination ticket costs €30.

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Athens’ crown is the Acropolis. The Parthenon is its jewel.  The epic marble monument soars above the city, visible from nearly every angle. Visiting the Acropolis and Parthenon is a top bucket list experience for travelers to Greece.

For millennia, the Acropolis has stood guard over Athens and served as a reminder of Greece’s contributions to politics, history, philosophy, medicine, and sport.

Without it, the world we’ve come to know would look very different.

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Milos is an Aegean gem that features dramatic coastal landscapes and quintessential Cycladic architecture. The Greek island is home to picture-perfect fishing villages, ancient ruins, and remote sun-kissed beaches. 

Yet despite its appeal, Milos still manages to fly under the radar. Outside of major tourist attractions like Sarakiniko and Kleftiko, the island is a treasure trove of secluded beaches, isolated swimming holes, and lonely dirt roads.

Milos’ claim to fame, the venerated Venus de Milo, may have found a new home in the Louvre, but the island’s breathtaking scenery and colorful villages provide more than enough reason to visit. 

MILOS GREECE: AN OVERVIEW

The island of Milos is one of the most beautiful in Greece. It is among the westernmost islands in the Cyclades, positioned 2.5 hours south of Athens and 2 hours west of Santorini by high speed ferry. 

The volcanic island arches around a central caldera. Its eastern half—the part that lies firmly on the tourist trail—is awash with quaint fishing villages and sun-drenched shores. It is easy to navigate and ripe with things to see and do. 

The western half of Milos offers an entirely different kind of travel experience. It is remote, desolate, and largely inaccessible. 

If you like exploring the road less traveled, don’t skip out on western Milos.

We found that the rewards of traveling to the lesser-known corners of the island are absolutely worth the extra effort. 

           
THINGS TO DO IN MILOS 

We visited Milos as part of an island-hopping vacation in the Greek Cyclades. Each of the Greek Islands we visited during our trip stood out in one way or another: Santorini for its dramatic caldera views, Naxos for its lush interior, and Paros for its perfect whitewashed towns. 

Milos stood out for the sheer variety of its tourist attractions. There are tons of things to do in Milos—from lounging on beaches to photographing villages and from swimming in sculpted sea caves to exploring abandoned mines. 

SARAKINIKO LUNAR LANDSCAPE

Sarakiniko is undeniably Milos’ #1 attraction. Instagrammers have discovered the area’s lunar topography and the crowds have followed suit. The landscape around Sarakiniko is a photographer’s dream. Its otherworldly meringue-like rock formations are compelling to explore and photograph.

The beach itself at Sarakiniko is quite small and pales in comparison to some of Milos’ other unspoiled stretches of sand. 

But the beach isn’t the main reason that thousands descend on Sarakiniko’s bizarre and otherworldly terrain. 

To best appreciate the uniqueness of the chalk-white landscape, I recommend wandering to the left of the beach and climbing over the ridges of white rock. The grippy rock is quite easy to climb, as it provides fantastic traction. 

Though it is different in nearly every way, I couldn’t help but be reminded of the White Desert in Egypt. 

KLEFTIKO SEA CAVES

Kleftiko is located along the southern coast of Milos. Alongside Sarakiniko, it is a top Milos attraction.

The shoreline at Kleftiko showcases sheer, sandy-colored cliffs that drop precipitously into the shimmering Aegean Sea. Tunnels and caves dot the landscape and provide ample opportunities for exploration.

It is said that pirates once hid out in Kleftiko’s coves, but today you’ll find mostly catamarans and snorkeling visitors. 

The water near Kleftiko is incredibly clear. I’ve been to few other places in the world that can claim such a dizzying patchwork of turquoise and blue. Orak Island in Bodrum Turkey is probably my closest comparison. 

The Kleftiko rock formations are difficult to access independently, so almost everyone visiting the area comes as part of a boat tour. 

We traveled to Kleftiko with Delfinia Tours. It was the cheapest option we could find and was the only half-day excursion that allowed us to bring Elio. Since we were traveling with a nine month old baby, we felt that embarking on a full-day snorkel tour would be overkill. 

The excursion was great, but had we not been traveling with a baby, we would have likely sprung for a full day boat tour of Milos that included the island’s western coast as well. 

PAPAFRAGAS CAVES AND BEACH

Carved into the cliffsides along Milos’ northern coast, the Papafragas Caves resemble a large rectangular swimming pool. The caves consist of three channels that cut through the chiseled cliffs—forming hidden coves and sea arches. The area is one of the more unique swimming destinations in Milos. 

Small beaches lie at the end of two of the small channels. To reach the small strips of sand, visitors can take a path that leads to the base of the cliffs.

We didn’t head down to the beach, since we stopped by Papafragos as the sun was setting. 

However, we took a moment to walk along the narrow pathway and admire the coastal scenery from above. 

MILOS BEACHES

Of all the Cycladic islands we visited during our island-hopping adventure, Milos stood out for the quality and quantity of its beaches. In fact, I wouldn’t be surprised if Milos has some of the best beaches in Greece. 

Milos has more than 75  strips of sand that line its spectacular shoreline. The beaches in Milos range from crowded and family-friendly to secluded and off-the-beaten-path. 

• TSIGRADO BEACH 

Tsigrado Beach is among the most iconic attractions in Milos. The water around Tsigrado Beach shimmers under the Aegean sun. Its colors range from pale turquoise to deep cobalt blue. They encompass every color in between. 

Reaching Tsigrado Beach requires scrambling down a ladder that lies sandwiched between a crevice in the cliffs. While it is not a particularly treacherous climb, be sure to use caution. Accessing the sand can be challenging and somewhat dangerous. 

Dan and I didn’t feel comfortable bringing Elio down Tsigrado Beach’s ladder, so we left him with my parents during our quick visit to the area.

If you are apprehensive about scrambling down the wooden ladder, know that the views from above are just as worthwhile. 

• FYRIPLAKA BEACH

Fyriplaka is among the most popular beaches in Milos. It boasts a long stretch of golden sand and clear shallow water. While nearby Tsigrado is difficult to reach, Fyriplaka is both kid-friendly and accessible. 

The most iconic feature of Fyriplaka Beach is a rocky outcrop that lies about halfway along the bay. It has a natural archway that is possible to swim through. 

Straw umbrellas line the long stretch of beach at Fyriplaka. They provide the only means of shade, so they tend to fill up quite quickly.

• PALEOCHORI BEACH

One of the island’s most beautiful beaches, Paleochori forms a long crescent of golden sand and rocks. It is backed by banded cliffs that vary in color from yellow to red to white to black. The beach is full of tourist amenities. 

Paleochori Beach is a full-service destination with restaurants and activity rentals. Sirocco Restaurant is a popular place to eat. The restaurant offers dishes cooked in the sand using thermal heat, thanks to an underground spring that warms the area’s sand. 

COLORFUL FISHING VILLAGES

Milos is known for its picturesque and colorful fishing villages. Three of the island’s villages in particular—Klima, Firopotamos and Mandrakia—are famous for the brightly painted garage doors. These colorful doors are known as syrmata in Greek. Each whitewashed home is carved directly into the surrounding rocks and comes with its own uniquely painted syrmata. 

The two-story design of the syrmata homes is quite practical. The bottom serves as a boat garage, while the second floor makes for a living space.

• KLIMA

Klima is a fishing port that boasts some of the most colorful syrmata in Greece. It is one of the most photogenic spots on the island and a top Milos itinerary destination. 

Once a hub of seafaring activity on the island, the Greek town is now mostly abandoned. A few of the colorful garages contain tourist shops, while others have been converted into unique rentable accommodations. Just a handful of full-time residents live in the syrmata today. 

Aside from taking photos and admiring the architecture, there isn’t a ton to do in Klima. The village is small and easy to visit within an hour. It contains a sandy area and a couple of restaurants. Most who come to Klima spend just a short time walking the narrow path between the syrmata and the sea, which brushes right up against the buildings during high tide.

• FIROPOTAMOS

Firopotamos is one of a handful of idyllic fishing villages located on coastal Milos. The town lines a picturesque bay with crystal clear water. 

Colorful syrmata, a quintessential Cycladic church, and a ruined doorway all make the quaint fishing village of Firopotamos a must-see destination.

In addition to its photogenic buildings and ruins, Firopotamos boasts one of Milos’ most popular beaches. A few large trees on the beach provide respite from the searing Mediterranean sun. 

• MANDRAKIA

Like Firopotamus, Mandrakia is small and easy to tour in less than an hour. But it still packs a punch when it comes to charm. 

Mandrakia boasts photogenic whitewashed homes with colorful doors and one of the top restaurants in Milos (Medusa). Small fishing boats bob up and down, surrounded by the iridescent blue of the Aegean. 

It is worth walking to the right of the church and exploring the backside of Mandrakia. Hidden from prying eyes, the smaller bay to the right of the village is ripe with photo opportunities. Syrmata lie nestled into the rocks, pounded by crashing waves.

In the distance, the lunar landscape of Sarakiniko forms a backdrop. 

POLLONIA

Pollonia lies at the northern tip of Milos. It is one of the most popular places to stay during a Milos holiday due to its sandy beach, bayside setting, and traditional tavernas. 

A string of wonderful restaurants line the waterfront to the right of Pollonia’s family-friendly public beach. We ate at Gialos and had one of the best meals of our Greek Isles vacation. 

Aside from the beach and eateries, there isn’t a whole lot to do in Pollonia itself. Many travelers use the town as a springboard for trips to the Kimolos and Polyegos islands. 

PLAKA AND ITS CASTLE

The hilltop town of Plaka is a gem that lies perched up in the hills, northeast of Adamantas. The town showcases whitewashed Cycladic architecture, narrow cobble-stone streets, and a Venetian castle. A nice selection of restaurants and cafes lie tucked away in the town’s narrow alleyways. Among them is Palaios Bakery, home to the best watermelon pie on the entire island. Dan and I still dream about their ladenia.

You can access the Plaka Castle by walking up a winding pathway that ascends the hill behind town. The pathway passes by the beautiful churches of Panagia Korfiatissa and Panagia Thalassitra

Soaking in the views from Plaka’s Venetian castle is one of the top things to do in Milos. The castle, built in the 13th century, was crucial in defending the Greek island from pirates due to its lofty position.

Little of the castle remains today, but views from the top extend over most of the island. 

TRYPITI MILOS

Trypiti Village is essentially an extension of Plaka. It sits on the lower slopes of the village, near many of Milos’ top archaeological attractions.

Trypiti’s whitewashed architecture includes windmills, churches, and typical Cycladic homes. The Church of Agios Nikolaos—noticeable from far away because of its distinct bell towers—is the town’s main landmark. 

Picturesque Trypiti isn’t always included in Milos itineraries, but the town is worth a quick look around.

ANCIENT MILOS THEATER 

Clinging to the hillside below Trypiti and above Klima, Milos’ large Roman-era theatre entertained the island’s citizens from the 1st to the 4th century AD. Only around a tenth of the original structure has been uncovered and partially restored, including part of an intricately carved marble facade that overlooks the piercing blue sea.

To the right of the path, a replica of the armless Parian marble statue—the Venus de Milo—stands on a platform. 

The archaeological site is free to visit and worth strolling around during a trip to Milos. It isn’t exactly the Acropolis, but it does represent some of the best-preserved ruins that we saw during our island-hopping itinerary. 

THE MILOS CATACOMBS

Greece’s only Christian catacombs, on the slopes below Trypiti, date from the 1st century. Over 2000 people were interred within the subterranean network of tunnels. The Catacombs of Milos are considered to be the most important early Christian monument in all of Greece. They are among the most important catacombs worldwide.

Visiting the catacombs consists of a 15 minute guided tour that explores two main chambers.

Though the Catacombs of Milos were part of our original itinerary, we ended up not visiting due to lack of time. 

THEORYCHIA SULFUR MINES

The Theorychia Sulfur Mines cling to the orangey hills above Paliorema Beach, along the southeastern coast of Milos. Built in 1930, they were used primarily for the extraction of sulfur that was then exported to France for pesticide use. 

The Milos Sulphur Mines S.A. employed an efficient method of recovering sulphur from ore. This method was used until 1958, when the company faced bankruptcy following a massive drop in sulphur prices. In many places around the world, sulphur mining was no longer economically feasible. (Pure sulphur is still extracted on a small scale at sites such as Kawah Ijen in Indonesia, although this relies on low labour costs and the absence of expensive machinery.)

When the mining industry in Milos collapsed, workers abandoned the Theorychia Mines, along with their machinery and tools. 

Today, old machinery and some rusty tools remain in place as an open-air memorial to the past. Other recovered items from the Theorychia Mines can now be found in the Milos Mining Museum. 

The sulphur mines in Milos require a 4WD vehicle to access, as the dirt road is poorly maintained and full of deep potholes.

If you’re spending more than two days in Milos, a visit to the mines is absolutely worthwhile. It can be easily combined with a dip in the emerald waters of Paliorema Beach nearby. 

WHERE TO STAY IN MILOS

We stayed at the Villa Windmill near Zefiria during our trip to Milos. The unique accommodation is less than a 15 minute drive from Adamantas, but it provides a rural retreat complete with chickens, a grassy field, and views of the surrounding pastures. 

It is truly a wonderful little oasis and Elio enjoyed every second of our stay.

If you’re looking for a more urban setting, you might want to consider staying in Adamantas—the island’s centrally-located transportation hub. On the cheap end, Sarakiniko Rooms offers a clean place to stay just outside the bustle of town. It is well-located and boasts stellar reviews. 

If you’re traveling with a large group or don’t mind splurging, you might want to consider renting out the lovely Villa Soleil in Adamantas. The 3 bedroom house has a beautiful terrace, a hot tub, and spacious rooms. 

WHEN TO VISIT MILOS 

During June through August, hot sunny and summer holidays bring throngs of visitors to Milos. While I imagine that peak season crowds are more manageable than in Santorini or Mykonos, I still recommend visiting during the shoulder season.

May and September are the best months to travel in Milos.  During these off-peak times of year, visitors can enjoy beautiful weather, quieter beaches, and cheaper accommodations.

My family and I visited the Greek Isles in late September. The weather was perfect, crowds were manageable, and we found it easy to book rental cars and accommodations without prior reservations.

GETTING AROUND MILOS

To best enjoy Milos’ diverse offerings, I recommend renting a car. There really isn’t a way of getting to all of the island’s top attractions using public transportation. 

A substantial chunk of western Milos is technically off-limits to rental vehicles due to bad roads. We asked our rental company about travel to the western half of the island, however, and got the go-ahead. We just had to pay a little bit extra in insurance costs. 

There are some parts of Milos that remain completely off-limits to vehicles. Much of the island’s dramatic western coastline is best accessed by boat. Sea-based tours of the island are plentiful and easy to book online or on the spot in Adamantas. 

ISLAND HOPPING FROM MILOS

Milos connects with the rest of Greece by boat. Frequent ferry connections link the island with other destinations in the Cyclades—including Santorini, Ios, Paros, and Naxos. You can find details and timetables at Ferryhopper.com

We took a ferry to Milos from Paros and had no difficulty booking last minute. Following our lovely stay in Milos, we took a last-minute ferry to Athens. 

If you’re looking to fly, you’ll be able to find tickets between Milos and Athens on Olympic Air and Sky Express. 

****

Places like Sarakiniko and Kleftiko might have put Milos on the map, but they represent only a tiny fraction of the island’s offerings. 

If you take the time to explore both Milos’ well-trodden and off-the-beaten path destinations, you’ll discover an island that has a little bit of something for everyone: photogenic towns, idyllic beaches, lovely pastoral landscapes, and ancient history. 

In terms of tourism offerings, Milos is a travel destination that punches far above its size. The island may be small, but its attractions are as varied as they are plentiful. 

The post Things to Do in Milos, Greece appeared first on Erika's Travels .

The idyllic island of Paros—awarded best in Europe by Travel and Leisure in both 2018 and 2020—seems to have it all.  The pretty Greek island has managed to strike a balance between easygoing and bustling, rustic and cosmopolitan, amenity-filled and affordable. It blends laid-back sophistication with unspoiled Cycladic beauty.

Though certainly not off the beaten path, Paros often takes a backseat to the more popular islands of Mykonos and Santorini.

As such, the island remains enticing in its beauty, yet still shielded somewhat from influencer fame.

PAROS ISLAND: THINGS TO DO AND SEE

Paros, the second largest island in the Cyclades, sits centrally located between many of Greece’s most alluring destinations. Frommer’s Guide dubs it the “Transportation Island” and calls it “a place to go on the way to the place you’re going.” But I think that depiction sells Paros short.

And judging by the thriving-yet-manageable tourism scene on the island, I think others probably agree.

Paros isn’t only a poor man’s Mykonos or Santorini. The island has its own noteworthy attractions, its own relaxed atmosphere, and its own reasons for landing a spot on Greek island-hopping itineraries.

PARIKIA

Parikia is the largest city in Paros and the island’s main transportation hub. It is also the base from which my family and I explored the area during our three day visit.

Parikia is home to winding cobbled lanes, photogenic alleyways and colorful doors. Its chalk-white homes and neoclassical mansions showcase architecture that is quintessentially Cycladic. The city boasts souvenir shops, lively cafes, quiet residential corners and striking sunset views from its waterfront.

As the island’s main harbor and commercial hub, Parikia contains some of Paros’ most important landmarks—including Panagia Ekatontapiliani and the Frankish Castle ruins.

• CHURCH OF PANAGIA EKATONTAPILIANI

The church of Panagia Ekatontapiliani lies near the port of Parikia. It is one of the best-preserved Paleo-Christian monuments in Greece.

According to the the island’s folklore, Saint Helene vowed to build a church on Paros when a storm left her stranded en-route to the Holy Land. Her son, the Roman emperor Constantine, later fulfilled her wish by constructing the magnificent Panagia Ekatontapiliani.

The original church dates back to the 4th century AD. In the 6th century, the Byzantine Emperor Justinian added the church’s dome. Subsequent additions to the church have taken place throughout history.

Today, Panagia Ekatontapiliani contains an amalgam of Paleochristian, Byzantine and post-Byzantine elements. Some of its marble stonework comes from remnants of the island’s ancient temples.

The name Ekatontapiliani means the Church with the Hundred Doors. Legend has it that the church contains 99 doors, plus a secret hidden door. It is believed that the hundredth door will open when the church of Hagia Sofia in Istanbul becomes Orthodox again.

• FRANKISH CASTLE

The remains of the Frankish Castle lie tucked away in the winding narrow lanes of Parikia. The fort, built by the ruling Venetians in the Byzantine era, was constructed using remnants of temples that date back to the 6th century BC.

Not much remains of the castle, but its unusual construction is worth seeing when in Paros.

NOUASSA

Bustling Nouassa is Paros’ most popular tourist attraction. The town is one of the prettiest in the Cyclades. Its charming harbor features a half-sunken Venetian castle and a lively pier.

Inside the village, crisscrossing cobblestone lanes overflow with eateries, cafes, boutiques, and bougainvillea-clad Cycladic homes. Tiny churches lie tucked away in quiet alleyways, just a stone’s throw away from the town’s picturesque boat-speckled harbor. Along Nouassa’s frenzied waterfront, restaurant tables vie for the best views of the sea.

With Nouassa’s nearby sandy beaches, its plethora of tasty eateries, its chic boutiques and its ubiquitous beauty, it is easy to see why the city lands a top spot on many Paros to-do lists. Nouassa is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon, as well as a great base from which to explore the island.

LEFKES

Postcard-perfect Lefkes is the highest mountain village in Paros. Located near the center of the island, it offers sweeping panoramic views of the Parian countryside and shimmering Aegean.

During the Middle Ages, Lefkes was the island’s capital and richest city. Echoes of its past can be seen in its architecture. The town contains a the blend of Venetian, neoclassical, and Cycladic buildings that date back to the 15th century.

The Church of Agia Trigada, built in 1830, is the most prominent landmark in Lefkes. It looms over the surrounding countryside and is the centerpiece of Lefkes’ townscape.

OTHER NOTABLE TOWNS IN PAROS

Lefkes may be the most notable town in Paros’ interior, but it is certainly not the only one worth visiting. Travelers seeking to enjoy more off-the-beaten path communities may want to check out the quaint villages of Marpissa, Prodromos, Kostos and Piso Livadi.

With the exception of Kostos, we didn’t have the opportunity to stroll Paros’ other picturesque villages.

Since we were traveling with our 9 month old baby, we had to juggle our sightseeing desires with time constraints and nap schedules.

PAROS PARK

Paros Park lies along the island’s northern reaches. It is a protected natural reserve that takes up the northern tip of the Agios Ioannis Detis Peninsula.

Paros Park is among the island’s top tourist attractions and a must-see for anyone seeking a slice of unspoiled scenery.

Three hiking trails lace through the 80 hectare park, offering views of its natural and cultural attractions. The park boasts a stunning rocky landscape, pounding surf, and a photogenic lighthouse. Along its coastline, the park conceals a string of small secluded beaches.

In addition to its natural amenities, the sprawling nature park contains an outdoor amphitheater (host to festivals and events throughout the summer), and an open-air cinema.

PAROS BEACHES

We didn’t spend much time at the beach during our stay in Paros. Since we’d already gotten our dose of sand and sea at the lovely Plaka Beach in Naxos, we chose to focus on the island’s other attractions instead.

It was clear to us, however, that there are plenty of wonderful beaches in Paros. Some of the island’s beaches are organized and crowded, while others appeal to those seeking quiet and seclusion.

The island’s most famous beach is Kolymbithres—a stretch of sand defined by its sculpted rock formations. Other popular beaches include Golden Beach (famous for windsurfing) and Santa Maria Beach.

ANTIPAROS ISLAND

Easily accessible from Paros with or without a car, Antiparos Island makes for a perfect side-trip. While still touristy, Antiparos offers a relaxed atmosphere that is supremely “chill.”

It is no wonder that celebrities like Tom Hanks and Madonna are known to frequently visit this small Aegean island in order to decompress.

• ANTIPAROS TOWN

Ferries from Paros arrive in Antiparos every couple hours.

Antiparos Town lies at the northern edge of the island. It is the island’s main tourism and transportation hub. Only steps from the port are the ruins of a 15th-century Venetian castle, built to defend the island from pirates. So little remains of the castle, however, that Dan and I could hardly discern what we were looking at.

Aside from its ruined castle, Antiparos Town doesn’t contain much in particular to see.

However, in true Cycladic style, its flower-clad whitewashed architecture makes for a beautiful backdrop.

• THE CAVE OF ANTIPAROS

The Cave of Antiparos is a stalagmite-and-stalactite-filled cavern that ranks among the best and oldest in Europe. The entrance to the cave is guarded by a small 18th century church called Agios loannis Spiliotis.

I’ll admit that—at least in terms of sheer natural beauty—we found it tempting to compare the cave with the stunning Grotte di Frasassi that we had visited just a week prior.

Though the Antiparos Cave’s underground formations abound, it is hard to ignore the visible human-caused damage. Some stalactites have been broken off and shipped to museums abroad, others have stopped growing due to oils from prodding hands.

Still, the cave contains some impressive formations, including one that is deemed to be the oldest in Europe.

Geology aside, the Cave of Antiparos is notable for its historical importance. As you descend 85 meters down the steep staircase into the heart of the cavern, you’ll pass inscriptions—many of which are centuries old. These inscriptions serve as an unofficial guestbook documenting the cave’s visitors throughout history. Etched in the stalagmites, you can find an autograph from King Otto of Austria, as well as numerous signatures dating as far back as the 1600s.

• ANTIPAROS BEACHES

While Paros has some lovely beaches, many people prefer the beaches in Antiparos. Judging from the ocean views along the way to the grotto, I can see why.

We spent a lovely hour or so at Paralia Psaraliki following our visit to the Antiparos Cave. Unfortunately, our half-day trip to Antiparos did not give us much time to scope out the other lauded beaches on the island.

If you’ve got more than a half day to explore the island, you may want to check out one of the island’s other idyllic beaches. From my understanding, Faneromeni Beach, Panagia Beach, Soros Beach, Glyfa Beach and Vathis Volos Beach contain the island’s most notable stretches of sand.

WHERE TO STAY IN PAROS (AND ANTIPAROS)

There are a variety of wonderful places to stay in Paros that cater to different budgets.

During our stay in Paros, my family and I rented out budget rooms at the Margarita Studios. The small yet comfortable rooms contained everything we needed at an unbeatable price point. The Parikia Nautilus Apartments-Suites offer another budget option.

For mid-range accommodation, the Alexandros Studios in Nouassa come highly reviewed. And if you’re looking for more of a splurge, the Kallisti Paros in Nouassa seems wonderful.

Antiparos is a bit more limited in terms of accommodation. If you’re looking to stay on the island overnight, the Artemis Hotel seems low-key, well-rated, and affordable.

WHEN TO VISIT PAROS

During the three summer months of June-August, hot sunny weather brings throngs of visitors to Paros. While I imagine that peak season crowds are a lot more manageable than in Santorini, I still recommend visiting during shoulder season.

The best time to visit Paros is during the months of May and September.  During these off-peak months, visitors can enjoy nice weather, quieter beaches, and better deals on accommodation.

My family and I visited in late September. The weather was gorgeous, crowds were manageable, and we found it quite easy to travel around without prior reservations.

GETTING TO PAROS

Paros connects with the rest of Greece by boat and plane. Frequent ferry connections link the island with other destinations in the Cyclades—including Santorini, Ios, Naxos, and Milos. You can find details and timetables at Ferryhopper.com

We took a ferry to Paros from Naxos and had no difficulty booking last minute.

Travelers coming from Athens or Thessaloniki also have the option of reaching Paros by plane on Olympic Air or Sky Express.

****

The pretty island of Paros draws travelers to its chalk-white cities, its bucolic rural villages and crystal clear waters.

While it has garnered attention in recent years, the island manages to maintain its charm by embracing tourism, while eschewing overdevelopment. Paros has struck a fine balance. But I fear that is only a matter of time before droves of tourists descend on the island and disrupt its equilibrium.

For now, the island remains lively and amenity-filled, yet simultaneously peaceful and rooted in tradition.

I totally understand why Paros is voted “Best in Europe” time and time again.

_________

DID YOU ENJOY THIS GUIDE TO PAROS AND ANTIPAROS? PIN IT! 

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The Greek island of Naxos is an unassuming gem. Boasting traditional Cycladic whitewashed villages and dramatic scenery, it is both understated and well-endowed.

Naxos welcomes visitors with its laidback charm and sparkling Aegean waters. It may not be as renowned as nearby Santorini or Mykonos, but the island exudes a different vibe: one that is less commercialized, less Insta-famous, and equally beautiful. 

TOP NAXOS ATTRACTIONS AND ITINERARY SUGGESTIONS

Naxos is the largest and greenest island in the Cyclades. It contains a wonderful balance of charming towns, photogenic scenery, ancient ruins, and sandy beaches. 

We spent three days in Naxos and, looking back, it wasn’t enough time. There are simply too many things to do in Naxos for a three day itinerary. The island’s winding mountain roads require time to navigate. And we found it difficult to squeeze in everything we had planned, considering that we had to juggle sightseeing with the needs of our 9 month old baby. 

Had we planned for more time in Naxos, I would have loved to hike Mount Zas, visit the Kouroi of Flerio, and discover more of the island’s quaint settlements. 

Yet while our three days in Naxos left many must-do activities on the table, our itinerary gave us an ideal balance of adventure, relaxation, exploration, and discovery.

WANDER THE STREETS OF CHORA

Chora (also known as Naxos Town) is the island’s main settlement. It is where the ferry terminal lies and where a majority of the island’s hotels reside.

Despite being the economic center of Naxos, Chora maintains a laidback charm. The town’s serpentine streets cascade downhill from the kastro—a venetian fortress that looms above Chora’s whitewashed homes. Below, its vibrant waterfront flanks a web of steep cobbled alleys.

Unless you’re set on experiencing a more rural side of Naxos, Chora will probably be your base when visiting the island. Its close proximity to beaches and ruins means that—in addition to exploring the town’s cobbled streets—you’ll have plenty of things to see and do nearby. 

Chora also has some lovely eateries and cafes. We enjoyed tasty meals at Elizabeth’s Garden and Meltemi Restaurant during our stay. 

RELAX AT THE BEACH

Plaka Beach is often considered to be the best beach in Naxos.  It is the island’s longest stretch of sand, extending over three kilometers. 

Do note that some of the quieter umbrella-free stretches of beach are clothing-optional. 

VISIT MOUNTAIN VILLAGES 

Naxos is a mountainous island dotted with small, picturesque villages. It contains the tallest point in the Cyclades (Mt Zas) as well as some of the region’s greenest hillsides. Its lush vegetation makes it unique among the surrounding islands. 

Naxos is verdant, forested, idyllic, and peaceful. The island’s fertile mountainsides produce olives, grapes, figs and citrus. They’re also littered with a collection of hillside settlements that maintain a certain quaint centuries-old charm. 

• APEIRANTHOS

Naxos has many villages worth visiting, but almost all sources give Apeiranthos the #1 spot. 

Pretty Apeiranthos sits on the lush slopes of Mount Fanari. The city is well-known for its beautiful marble-clad buildings and walkways. Souvenir shops and cafes line the main street in town and its viewpoints showcase a lovely setting amidst the Naxian mountains. 

We strolled the streets of Apiranthos while napping Elio in his carrier. During our visit, we enjoyed popping into artisan shops and getting lost in a maze of narrow alleyways. 

• MELANES

Melanes is another of Naxos’ picturesque villages. It is a wonderful base from which to explore the island’s more rural side. From Melanes, walking trails connect attractions in the surrounding area. They reach the Kouroi of Flerio and and a smattering of other small mountain communities. 

When we visited Melanes, we had every intent of hiking to Myli and visiting the Kouroi. But an ensuing series of obstacles—including, but not limited to baby sleep—caused us to pivot our plans and explore the village. 

Instead of venturing on a hike, we walked through town and made our way to the beautiful Agios Giorgios Church. 

Agios Georgios is a small unassuming gem that lies next to a mountain stream, some 100 meters from the village of Melanes. The small Byzantine church is adorned in frescoes. It is well worth visiting during a trip to the area. 

• CHALKI

Chalki village (also sometimes referred to as Halki) used to be the island’s capital.

The city is among the most historically important on Naxos. It contains numerous neoclassical houses and buildings that are testimony to the wealth and power it once wielded. The village boasts colorful alleys that feel stuck in time and shaded cafes perfect for an afternoon snack. 

Though we stopped in Chalki for lunch, I only learned of the many things to do in town after my visit. The village contains well-preserved houses, Venetian towers and the Church of Panagia—a 9th century structure with some beautiful Byzantine and post-Byzantine frescoes. 

• APOLLONAS

Apollonas village is a settlement along Naxos’s northeastern coast, about 36 kilometers from Chora. It is a beautiful white and blue town that has been inhabited since antiquity, probably due to the nearby marble quarry. 

The seaside village is quite removed from the other tourist attractions in Naxos. To reach Apollonas, we traveled along a winding road that showcases splendid views of the island’s coastal scenery. The drive is so beautiful, that I’d consider it to be a worthwhile attraction on its own. 

We stopped in Apollonas for lunch, before continuing toward Naxos’ interior. The town is lovely. Picturesque whitewashed houses line a sandy beach that lies within a harbor. Adjacent to the beach, bayfront restaurants with outdoor seating offer a fantastic spot to while away the afternoon.

CHECK OUT THE KOUROS

The kouroi of Naxos are free-standing ancient sculptures that appeared for the first time during the Archaic period in Greece. The massive marble statues represent nude male youths. They are among the island’s most notable archaeological finds. 

• KOUROS OF APOLLONAS

Located just minutes from Apollonas, the impressive 12 meter Kouros of Apollonas dates back to the 6th or 7th century BC. The large free-standing sculpture, also known as the Colossus of Dionysus, is one of the most impressive surviving statues on the island. 

The kouros lies unfinished and abandoned, in a supine position. Archaeologists suggest that the statue remains in its current state because it was already cracked in several places and, thus, not worthy of transportation. It reminded me of the half-finished moai at the quarries on Easter Island. 

• KOURO OF FLERIO

Flerio was considered to be one of Naxos’ two main marble quarrying areas, alongside Apollonas.

Today, the attraction draws tourists to two oversized kouroi that date back to the 6th century BC. Both kouroi are unfinished, possibly due to accidents during their transportation.

We did not get the opportunity to visit the Kouroi of Flerio, despite initially intending to reach the archaeological site on a hike from Melanes. 

VISIT ANCIENT RUINS

While it might not lay claim to the most renowned archaeological sites in Greece, the island of Naxos has enough ancient ruins to entertain history buffs. In addition to the kouroi, the island boasts the iconic Portara near Chora and the Temple of Demeter in the fields near Sangri. 

• PORTARA

Naxos’ monumental Portara faces Chora, on the islet of Palatia. A solitary doorway, it stands alone regally, as if keeping watch over the island and its largest settlement. 

While the Portara resembles a door to nowhere, it is a wonderful spot from which to view the sunset. It is among the top Naxos attractions—both due to its historical significance and idyllic setting. 

The monumental gate, which is the only remnant seen today, lies amidst foundations that were never completed.

Over the years, most of the stones used to build the temple were brought to other areas of the island. Some of the stones now adorn the Venetian palaces and castles in Chora and beyond. 

• TEMPLE OF DEMETER

The Temple of Demeter, built around 530 BC, predates the Acropolis in Athens. it is a small archaeological site that contains a series of Ionic columns, sculptures and marble votives.  

Inscriptions suggest that the temple was dedicated to Demeter, the goddess of harvest, grain and fertility. The temple was partially replaced by a Christian basilica in the 6th century. 

Unfortunately and unbeknownst to us at the time, the Temple of Demeter is closed to guests on Tuesdays. Thus, we didn’t get a chance to see the ancient structure up close—though we could see it in the distance, rising from the farmland. 

TAKE A HIKE

As one of Greece’s most vertical islands, Naxos is an ideal destination for hikers. Its densely-vegetated countryside and dramatic mountain scenery conceals an abundance of crisscrossing trails. 

Logistically and time-wise, we didn’t take advantage of the island’s walking paths. We had originally wanted to explore the trails near Melanes, but found it difficult to squeeze them into our itinerary. 

Had we not been traveling with a baby, we would have likely opted to hike to the summit of Mount Zas. At 1,000 meters above sea level, Mount Zas is the highest point in the Cyclades. The 5.7 mile out-and-back summit trail leaves from near Filoti.

WHERE TO STAY IN NAXOS

There are a variety of wonderful places to stay in Naxos that cater to different budgets. Even the island’s most lavish accommodations—options that would be at least triple the price on more popular islands—are somewhat reasonably priced. 

For budget travelers, the Anatoli Hotel seems to offer wonderful amenities at a wallet-friendly cost. It has a pool, free breakfast and clean rooms. The Manios Suites is a midrange property near Agios Anna that boasts a fantastic beachside location.

And if you’re looking to splurge, it doesn’t seem to get much better than the Diadema Villa—with its ocean views, private pool spa and luxurious rooms.  

My family and I chose to stay in an apartment during our Naxos vacation. Since Dan and I were traveling with my parents and our 9 month old baby, the rental home was a perfect option for our large group. 

GETTING TO NAXOS

Naxos connects with the rest of Greece by boat and plane. Frequent ferry connections link the large island with other destinations in the Cyclades—including Santorini, Ios, Paros, and Milos. You can find details and timetables at Ferryhopper.com

We took a ferry to Naxos from Santorini and had no difficulty booking last minute.

Travelers coming from Athens also have the option of reaching Naxos by plane on Olympic Air or Sky Express. 

***

Traveling around Naxos is what I imagine visiting Santorini must have once felt like, before the onslaught of tourism converted whitewashed homes into opulent hotels. The verdant island of Naxos still retains a laidback character that feels unblemished by mass tourism. 

Naxos is a family-friendly travel destination that brims with things to see and do. Showcasing some of the most noteworthy natural and human-engineered gems in the Cyclades, the island contains all the necessary ingredients of a memorable Greek holiday—quaint villages, historical monuments, azure waters, a lively atmosphere, and postcard-worthy scenery. 

The post Things to Do in Naxos: Largest Island in the Cyclades appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Santorini is a destination that needs no introduction.

One of the most renowned islands in the world, it is quite simply a breathtaking place—with whitewashed villages tumbling toward the sea and cobalt waters scintillating under the Aegean sun.

Considering its beauty, it comes as no surprise that the Greek island is a magnet for Instagrammers and honeymooners. Millions of tourists flock to its shores every year in search of the perfect white and blue backdrop.

Although I often pride myself in straying away from the crowds, I could’t resist adding Santorini to my Greece itinerary. I’d fallen prey to the lure of powdered sugar villages and sapphire seas.

And I and wanted to see it all for myself.

Santorini Greece: An Overview

Santorini is the most famous of Greece’s jewel-like Cycladic islands. It consists of two inhabited islands: Santorini (also known as Thera) and Therasia (accessible by ferry from Oia).

Santorini’s unique geography dates back to 1600 BC, when the Minoan eruption decimated the island and carved out a massive caldera that collapsed partially under water. The volcanic eruption was one of the largest natural disasters in human history. Its effects were so far-reaching, that mentions of the explosion can be found in literature from around the world—from Egypt to China.

Some even go as far as to suggest that Santorini could be the sunken city of Atlantis.

Today, visitors flock to Santorini in droves. They are drawn to the Greek island for its chic shopping, posh hotels, and humming nightlife.

But despite the appeal of Santorini’s human-engineered attractions, its stunning caldera remains the primary draw.

Two Day Santorini Itinerary

While the idyllic Greek island packs a lot of punch, touring Santorini in two days is quite manageable. The island—though world-renowned and historically significant—is small and easy to navigate.

Dan and I traveled to Santorini with my parents and baby Elio, who was 9 months old at the time. Even with a squirmy infant who napped twice a day, we were able to fit the island’s highlights into a two day itinerary.

Of course, many travelers will want to spend extra time soaking in the island’s exquisite panoramas. I imagine it would be easy to lose track of time in some of the lavish hotels with their infinity pools and caldera views.

But each day on Santorini comes with a high price tag. So my family and I chose to spend our extra vacation days on the quieter, cheaper islands of Naxos, Paros and Milos instead.

Day 1: Hiking and Sunsets

Santorini’s mountainous topography means that you don’t have to go far to get stunning aerial views over the Aegean’s sparkling waters. The plethora of lofty vantage points–coupled with an absence of view-obstructing trees–ensures that the island’s 360 degree panoramas are always photo-worthy.

On our first day in Santorini, we took on the island’s most renowned hike. The route connects multiple scenic tourist towns and encompasses striking views of the caldera.

• Fira to Oia Hike

The six mile walk from Fira to Oia is, without a doubt, my favorite Santorini activity. The hike follows the caldera’s rim between two beautiful whitewashed towns and boasts the island’s best views. It is an absolute must-do, as long as you’re willing to lace up your walking shoes.

The hike begins in Fira, Santorini’s urban hub. It hugs the cliffside along the city’s western edge–passing alongside blue-domed churches, bougainvillea-clad doorways and opulent luxury hotels. The walking path is a mix of paved pedestrian streets and dirt hiking trails. It is a hilly trek with little shade.

The trail isn’t always well marked, but as long as you keep the water to your left, you’ll eventually come across the official path.

For its first two kilometers, the trail consists of a well-trodden cobblestone walkway. It cuts through the northern end of Fira and its adjacent towns of Firostefani and Imerovigli. In Imerovigli, whitewashed homes give way to rugged and desolate terrain.

Travelers with a little extra time and energy may want to add a detour to Skaros Rock. The promontory is accessible from Imerovigli. Reaching the rock requires an additional hour of hiking, roundtrip.

A small snack shack lies at about the half way point between Fira and Oia. We stopped there for a small bite to eat, before continuing onward. Past the snack bar, the path continues up a dirt track to a small church. Then, it descends into Oia with jaw-dropping views of the cobalt sea.

My family and I spent the entire morning hiking between Santorini’s two main tourist hubs. Traveling in the hot sun with a newly walking baby required lots of breaks.

We didn’t mind at all though. The slower pace allowed us to enjoy the scenery all the more.

• Oia Sunset

It is almost impossible to decouple Oia from the fiery sunsets with which it is often associated. Viewing the sunset in Oia is consistently regarded as a top Santorini activity. For this reason, I’ve decided to add sunset-viewing to my suggested itinerary.

Full disclosure though: we didn’t actually see the sunset. At least not in the sense that we saw the sun dipping below the water. The crowds were simply too intense and we didn’t feel like pushing through throngs of people in order to catch a selfie-stick-obstructed view of orangey sky. Especially with a 9 month old baby in tow.

However, for those who don’t mind being shoved by the masses, I’m told the sunset views are spectacular. My parents went out to see the sunset while Dan and I were rocking Elio to sleep. They gave it two thumbs up.

• Oia at Night

On our first evening in Santorini, after we put Elio to bed, Dan and I headed out for a moonlit stroll around town. We climbed up to the castle, then made our way down the long chain of steps to Ammoudi Bay—a waterfront area that houses the town’s finest seafood restaurants. In complete solitude, we relished the illuminated views of Greece’s most picturesque town.

After the day trippers and cruise ship tourists leave, a certain magic descends upon Oia. We found that wandering the deserted streets of town was somewhat akin to visiting Venice after dark.

Oia is considered by some to be the most beautiful village in the world. And in the evening lamplight glow, it wasn’t difficult for us to see why. The whitewashed town—rebuilt to its current glory after a devastating earthquake in 1956 all but obliterated most of the original buildings—looks like something out of a fairy tale.

Day 2: The Rest of the Island

While the walk from Fira to Oia gave us a perfect overview of Santorini’s offerings, our second day on the island allowed us to stray away from the main tourism hubs.

On day two of our itinerary, we stopped by Pyrgos, the Profitis Ilias Monastery, Kamari Beach, and Red Beach.

• Pyrgos Town

Pyrgos is Santorini’s former capital. The idyllic town sits perched atop a hill, in the shadow of the island’s tallest mountain. In all directions, it boasts magnificent views.

A castle lies at the center of Pyrgos. From the castle, the whitewashed village tumbles downhill toward the sea. The town reminded me of a Middle Eastern medina, with its kasbah-like fortification and twisting narrow alleyways.

Yet, while Pyrgos is full of charm and aesthetic appeal, its hinterland location has spared it the extravagant hotels and infinity pools that adorn the covers of tourist brochures. Pyrgos is not swamped by throngs of sunset chasers and Instagrammers. Nor is it the first stop for cruise ship tourists and day trippers. The city’s charm strikes a different chord: one that feels more authentic, less picture-perfect.

Unlike Fira, Immerovigli and Oia, we didn’t find it difficult to imagine locals living amongst the mix of hotels, restaurants and shops. In fact, it wasn’t until my family and I visited Pyrgos that we felt like we were in an actual town.

Because, if I’m being quite honest, the main towns of Fira and Oia made us feel a bit like we were in Disneyland.

• Prophitis Ilias Monastery

Built atop the highest point on Santorini, the Monastery of Profitis Ilias (Prophet Elijah) stands tall. Offering all-encompassing views over the entire island, the monastic sanctuary is well worth visiting.

• Kamari Beach

Kamari Beach is a testament to Santorini’s volcanic past. Its stretch of ebony sand is one of the largest on the island. The beach lies southeast of Fira, adjacent to its namesake town—a popular resort area that is home to some of the island’s more reasonably priced accommodations.

While Kamari isn’t likely to make a list of best Greek beaches, we found it to be a great place to visit with kids. It is a great place to relax and one of the top places to go snorkeling in Santorini. Elio loved playing in the fine black sand, and we enjoyed soaking in the shallow waters.

• Red Beach

Santorini’s most unique and iconic beach lies tucked behind a soaring bluff. On an island that is not particularly known for its sandy shores, Red Beach stands out as a visually stunning exception–though perhaps one that is best admired from a distance.

A rocky footpath connects the famous beach with a nearby parking area.

Exercise caution when visiting Red Beach. The area is prone to rock slides and technically off-limits. The warning signs do not dissuade throngs of daily visitors, however.

If you’re traveling without a car, you can visit Red Beach as part of a boat tour around Santorini. Most boat tours include pit stops at Red Beach and White Beach (a strip of sand that we did not visit because it is only accessible by water).

Where TO Stay in Santorini

Santorini has no shortage of wonderful places to stay. These accommodations range from small apartments to luxurious villas.

While Santorini isn’t exactly a haven for budget travelers, decent cheap accommodation does exist. Most of the wallet-friendly options are located near the island’s sandy beaches, away from the main whitewashed towns. Notable exceptions are the Bedspot Hostel in Fira and the Central Hostel in Oia.

For travelers seeking mid-range accommodation, the hotels in Pyrgos offer a taste of opulence at a more palatable price point. Among them, are the Voreina Gallery Suites and Nova Luxury Suites.

And if you’re looking for a splurge, Santorini certainly has you covered. Just outside of Imerovigli, the Nobu Hotel offers some of the caldera’s best views with a side of delectable food. Also notable for its 5 star elegance is the Perivolas in Oia—a beautiful property with front row seats to the town’s famous sunset.

During our two day Santorini trip, we opted for a place that could accommodate a family of five. We found an AirBnb just outside of Oia. It was the perfect fit for our family and an affordable option.

I’m not going to lie though, a twang of jealousy hit me every time I passed the opulent hotels with their infinity pools and drop-dead views.

Island Hopping from Santorini

Santorini is a hub of travel in Greece and a perfect launching pad for multi-island adventures. The island is well-connected to Athens, as well as to the other Cycladic islands of Ios, Naxos, Paros, Milos and Crete. We spent two days in Santorini before continuing on to Naxos. Boat tickets were easy to secure, even during high season.

Numerous ferry companies make the journey between Santorini and its surrounding islands. You can find details and timetables at Ferryhopper.com

If you’re traveling from Athens to Santorini, you can choose to either take a ferry or fly. Flights take less than an hour and cost as little as $50 roundtrip.

Traveling Santorini with a Baby

Santorini isn’t exactly a typical destination for travelers with babies in tow. The Greek island caters to honeymooners, cruise ship tourists, and luxury-seekers.

Prior to setting foot on the island, I had multiple people tell me that I should look elsewhere if I wanted to bring the baby. The island is difficult to navigate by stroller and extremely hilly. It isn’t exactly the type of place where I could plop Elio on the beach and watch him play in the sand.

I’m happy we decided to travel to Santorini with a baby anyways. Visiting Santorini with kids can be incredibly rewarding. Elio handled the trip like a champ, and our Ergobaby got a lot of usage.

We quickly learned that carriers trump strollers on Santorini. So you may as well leave the stroller at home, unless you have the extra space to bring a versatile all-terrain stroller like the Guava Roam Crossover.

We brought a lot of baby gear on our trip, including our travel crib and travel car seat. If you don’t want to lug a million pounds of baby gear with you, I recommend renting the equipment you’ll need when you arrive. A quick Internet search led me to Santorini Travel Tots—a website that rents out the necessities.

When to Visit Santorini

July and August are peak travel months in Santorini. I would advise against exploring the island during these busy months if at all possible. Santorini is notoriously crowded during the summer. While Greece is one of the best places to visit in June, I would suggest traveling to Santorini during the shoulder months of May and October. Even September remains high season.

When we visited in September, the crowds of tourists were so intense that we felt like a herd of cattle being corralled into a pen through a single doorway. I can’t even imagine what it would have been like had we decided to travel to the island during the two months prior.

If I were to visit again, I would choose May or October.

****

Before traveling to Santorini, I knew to expect the crowds and over-tourism. I kept my expectations in check, realizing full well that the images I’d seen online were often heavily curated and filtered.

Yet the island’s white-washed villages, dangling on the edge of the iconic caldera, still managed to take my breath away. As did its precipitous cliffs and its scintillating waters and its lofty viewpoints.

Put simply, no matter how crowded and expensive and overhyped Santorini is, the idyllic Greek island is still 1000% worth visiting.

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Munich is a large city with a small-town feel. Boasting compact walkable streets and easy access to nature, it is at once modest in its aesthetics and outsized in its historical and cultural influence.

A land of lederhosen, dirndls, and flowing steins of beer, it lies at the heart of German culture and tradition.

Until 1871, Munich was the capital of an independent Bavaria. The city’s imperial palaces and Neoclassical buildings act as a reminder of Munich’s historical and cultural relevance. Meanwhile, just down the road in the suburb of Dachau, lie harrowing reminders of Germany’s Nazi past.

Munich’s renown as the birthplace of Nazism gives the city a dark and complex history.

And yet, today, Munich is a delightful metropolis with plenty to see and do—whether you’re interested in history, culture, art, or sport.

TWO DAY MUNICH ITINERARY

Dan and I spent two days in Munich on a January stopover between Cairo and the United States. Following nearly a month in Egypt, we found Munich to be a bit of a culture shock. The Bavarian city is everything Cairo is not. It is efficient, organized, functional, and orderly. It is the epitome of what I remembered Germany to be like.

While in Munich, Dan and I stayed at the Holiday Inn Stadcentrum. The accommodation offered us exceptional value for money, especially considering its heavily discounted price on booking.com.  Our hotel’s central location—just a short walk from Marienplatz and two blocks from the Rosenheimer Platz metro station—ensured that we were perfectly positioned to enjoy our two days in Munich.

With only two days in Munich, Dan and I had to prioritize the city’s top attractions. We spent the first day getting familiar with the general layout of the city, its parks, and its historic downtown. On the second day, we chose to take a train to the nearby village of Dachau, for a sobering visit to one of Europe’s most notorious concentration camps.

Visiting Dachau is a matter of personal choice. Travelers  who choose to skip it can find many other things to do in Munich—including art museums, palaces, cathedrals, and breweries.

MUNICH DAY 1: THE ESSENTIALS

On our first day in Munich, Dan and I explored the city’s central parks and old town.

After World War II, Munich’s city leaders took care to preserve the city’s original street plan and re-create the medieval steeples, Neo-Gothic façades, and Neoclassical buildings present in the city center. They blocked off the city’s downtown to cars, built a subway system, and opened up pedestrian-only streets.

Many of the top things to do in Munich are centered around Alstadt, the city’s compact and walkable core.

MARIENPLATZ

Alstadt is the oldest part of Munich and the location of the city’s most comprehensive collection of historic buildings. At its center lies Marienplatz—the undeniable heart of Munich and a logical first stop on city itineraries.

Marienplatz was founded in the 12th century by Henry the Lion, Duke of Bavaria. Marienplatz’s centerpiece is the impressive Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). It is a 300-foot-long, elaborately decorated façade with hundreds of statues, turrets and arches that dominate the square.

The tower of the Neues Rathaus displays the Rathaus-Glockenspiel. Each day at 11 am and noon, hundreds of people gather in front of the tower to watch the 32 life-sized figures reenact historical Bavarian events.

Though I’d seen the clock show on a childhood trip to Munich in 2003, Dan and I narrowly missed the spectacle during our two days in Munich. Based on erroneous information we had read online, we decided to hold out for an evening showing. As it turns out, however, additional 5 o’clock showings are only limited to summer months.

ST PETER’S CHURCH BELLTOWER

For excellent aerial views of Munich’s historical core, we chose to climb the St Peter’s Church Bell Tower. From its viewing platforms, we had unparalleled views of Marienplatz, the Frauenkirche’s twin steeples, the city’s extensive gardens, and the Bavarian Alps in the distance.

The St Peterskirche’s bell tower staircase consists of 306 steps, and costs €3 to climb. It offers the best panoramas of central Munich

VIKTUALIENMARKT

Around the corner from Marienplatz, the Viktualienmarkt is a wonderful place to grab a quick bite to eat and revel in Munich’s small town charm.

The Viktualienmarkt contains 140 stalls offering flowers, fruit, meats, spices, cheeses, and pre-made fare.

Like an open air gourmet food hall, it is delicious place to grab a quick bite during a busy day of sightseeing.

THE MUNICH HOFGARTEN

Though diminutive in comparison with Munich’s larger parks and gardens, the Munich Hofgarten is remarkable for being at the center of some of Bavaria’s most notable architecture. The Hofgarten is an Italian Renaissance Garden that centers around a small pavilion. At its east end, lies the imposing Bavarian State Chancellery. Flanking its southern side is the Residenz—Germany’s largest residential palace.

From the Munich Hofgarten, a strip of greenery extends outward, toward the Englischer Garten. Had we only had one day in Munich, we would have likely continued our itinerary with a pre-dinner stroll through the city’s sprawling park.

Since we had time to explore the city at a more leisurely pace, however, we escaped the chilly winter weather and warmed up with a stein of beer at the legendary Hofbrauhaus.

THE MUNICH HOFBRAUHAUS

Beer has been part of Munich life for at least seven centuries, and the brewing tradition is very much alive and kicking today. The Bavarian capital boasts six prominent breweries that pump out world-class suds to thousands of restaurants and beer halls around Germany and beyond.

The king of them all is Hofbrauhaus. No trip to Munich would be complete without throwing back a stein at the iconic watering hole that has gained international renown.

In truth, I wouldn’t exactly say that the Hofbrauhaus presents visitors with a true Bavarian experience (the clientele is almost exclusively made up of foreign tourists). Nor did we find the food at the Hofbrauhaus to be anything out of the ordinary (we were much more satisfied with our dinner at the the Schneider Brauhaus around the corner).

Still, the Hofbrauhaus is a tourist staple that should not be missed when visiting Munich. With its oversized beer steins, its lederhosen-clad wait staff, and its healthy portions of spaetzel, schnitzel and bratwurst sausages,  it represents every Bavarian stereotype rolled into one.

MUNICH DAY 2 ITINERARY

While we spent our first day in Munich enjoying the city’s vibrant historical core and its popular watering holes, our second day in Munich reminded us of Germany’s complex recent past. Sure, the city is now among the most livable in the world, but it hasn’t always been this way for everyone.

Between 1933-1945, the Dachau Concentration Camp near Munich claimed the lives of tens of thousands of Jews, homosexuals, Gypsies, and political opponents to Nazism. The site is now a somber memorial to the millions of innocent lives lost during the Holocaust.

On the morning of our second day in Germany, we delved into the dark side of Bavarian 20th century history with a visit to the notorious concentration camp.

Afterwards, we spent an afternoon reflecting and decompressing in Munich’s extensive urban gardens.

MORNING AT DACHAU CONCENTRATION CAMP

Visiting the Dachau Concentration Camp is one of the most popular day trips from Munich. While the camp technically lies outside of Munich, the site’s easy access to the city makes it a worthwhile inclusion when visiting Bavaria’s capital.

In the early years of Germany’s Nazi reign, Dachau was the largest and most well-known death camp in the world. Later, it became a model for other notorious extermination camps such as Auschwitz-Birkenau and Treblinka.

Tourists to Dachau can walk the grounds of the camp and visit the crematorium. The site’s excellent museum gives a chronological history of the concentration camp’s various uses during the Nazi regime.

The Dachau Memorial is free to visit. The site offers guided tours in English at 11 am and 1 pm every day. These tours last roughly two and a half hours and cost €3.50 per person.

Since Dan and I arrived at Dachau well before the start of the first tour, we chose to rent audioguides for €4 apiece instead. The informative audioguides were excellent and provided us with moving stories from Dachau’s Holocaust survivors.

DACHAU ALTERNATIVES

Touring Dachau during our two days in Munich was both informative and worthwhile. In many ways, it reminded me of visiting the Killing Fields in Phnom Penh, or the slave castles in Ghana. However, spending time at Dachau is 100% a personal choice. And I fully understand that many travelers might want their Munich vacations to omit visiting a place of incomprehensible cruelty and torture.

For travelers wishing to skip a visit to Dachau, there are plenty of museums in Munich that my online research suggests are worth visiting. Had we not chosen to take a half-day trip to Dachau, we would have likely spent the morning at the Nymphenburg Palace, or at one of the city’s three Pinakothek Museums.

OLYMPIAPARK

Though Munich has plenty of palaces and museums to keep travelers entertained for two days, Dan and I chose to spend the afternoon of our second day in Munich enjoying some of the city’s most wonderful assets: its parks.

From Dachau, we took a train back to Marienplatz, grabbed a bite to eat at Viktualienmarkt, then took the metro to Olympiapark for a stroll around the 1972 Olympics complex.

Olympiapark’s two famous landmarks are a 290m tower, and a warped athletic stadium.

On clear sunny days, breathtaking views of Munich and the Alps extend in all directions from the Olympic Hill at the center of the park.

ENGLISCHER GARTEN

After strolling around the Olympiapark and soaking in the views from its grassy hilltop, Dan and I chose to spend the remainder of our day in the sprawling and wonderful Englischer Garten.

The Englischer Garten—one of the world’s best city parks—takes up 3.7 square kilometer’s of Munich’s urban landscape.

The park contains a Chinese pavilion, a Japanese teahouse, an artificial lake, an open air amphitheater, and miles upon miles of walking paths.

It even offers the opportunity to participate in urban surfing at the Eisbach—a small channel that has become a magnet for surfers, no matter the weather.

****

Munich merits more than just a passing glance. Like other great European cities, the Bavarian capital is ripe with things to do and places to visit.

As Dan and I walked through Munich, we found it easy to understand why the Bavarian capital is consistently voted one of Germany’s most livable cities.

For beer lovers, there no place quite like Munich.

And for everyone else, the city offers a generous smattering of ornate cathedrals, stately palaces, pedestrian shopping malls, and sprawling parks.

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According to legend, the hexagonal columns along Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast were built by Irish giant, Fionn mac Cumhaill. As the story goes, Fionn created a causeway across the North Channel in order to challenge Scottish giant, Benandonner, to battle.

Yet, Fionn soon realized that he had underestimated his enemy. In an ingenious plot twist, he conned his Scottish foe by disguising himself as a baby. The plan worked flawlessly.

Upon crossing the causeway to Northern Ireland and seeing the large baby, the Scottish giant panicked. If the child is so big, he wondered, then how terrifying must his father be?

Out of fear, he retreated home—destroying bits of the causeway in his wake.

***

It isn’t difficult to see why Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast is steeped in mythology. The windswept scenery is rugged and raw—enshrouded in mystery and battered by the elements.

The Giant’s Causeway is undoubtedly Northern Ireland’s primary tourist draw. But despite its popularity and photogenic appeal, it is by no means the only place to visit along the area’s wild and scenic coastline.

The Causeway Coast (also known as the Antrim Coast) is among the most iconic stretches of road in the British Isles. The coastal road picks up at the terminus of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. Meandering past crumbling castles, towering sea walls, and quaint coastal villages, it is at once picturesque and wild, touristy and unspoiled.

TRAVEL IN NORTHERN IRELAND

Dan and I traveled along the Antrim Coast after completing a two day drive around County Donegal. As soon as we crossed from Ireland into Northern Ireland, we noticed a number of subtle changes. Road signs converted from kilometers to miles. The pound sterling replaced the euro. The crowds that had previously evaded us seemed to spring up out of thin air.

We were—in every practical sense—in the United Kingdom.

• THE NORTHERN IRELAND QUESTION

The imaginary line that bisects the emerald isle divides the Republic of Ireland from British-controlled Northern Ireland. And though the region is currently safe to visit, we saw evidence of the island’s historical divisions everywhere.

During the late 20th century, a period of conflict known as ‘The Troubles’ resulted in violence along the island’s Protestant/Catholic divide. Most Catholics wished to join the Republic of Ireland. The majority of Protestants wanted to remain part of the United Kingdom. Tensions flared and violence ensued. The media often depicts the conflict as an entirely religious battle, but it is just as much about the area’s political allegiance.

Following the Good Friday Agreement of 1999, Northern Ireland’s political climate entered a more reconciliatory era.

And today, though tensions still simmer on occasion, the unrest has largely subsided.

THE CAUSEWAY COAST

The Wild Atlantic Way is a winding road that stretches along the entirety of Ireland’s western coastline—past the Ring of Kerry, the Cliffs of Moher and Donegal. As the road enters Northern Ireland, it transforms into the equally-stunning Causeway Coast.

Clinging to Ireland’s rugged northern coastline between Derry and Belfast, the wild Causeway Coast is a glorious mix of quaint villages, windswept beaches and exhilarating clifftop walks.

DUNLUCE CASTLE

The Dunluce Castle was the first stop on our Causeway Coast road trip. The picturesque castle sits atop sheer cliffs, between Portrush and the Giants Causeway. The structure dates back to the 1500s and is one of the finest castles along the Antrim Coast in Northern Ireland.

Due to the Dunluce castle’s precarious cliffside perch, much of its structure has vanished into the sea over the centuries. It lies crumbling in ruins, unrestored.

Yet, even in its ruined state—or perhaps because of it—the Dunluce Castle remains one of the most evocative and atmospheric castles in the area.

Though visiting the Dunluce Castle is one of the top things to do in Northern Ireland, Dan and I chose to view the castle from its exterior.

Entrance to the castle costs £5 per person, and we had yet to exchange our euros for pound sterling.

From the roadside, views of the castle are spectacular.

THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY

The Giant’s Causeway sits along a particularly stunning stretch of coast that lies east of the Dunluce Castle. The iconic coastline boasts thousands of closely-stacked hexagonal columns that reach unevenly toward the sea.

Today, the Giant’s Causeway is a well-known backdrop to numerous cinematic hits—including the ever-so-popular Game of Thrones Series.

Visiting the Giant’s Causeway is free, though tourists must pay to park their vehicles and enter the visitor’s center. We used the parking lot near the Bushmills Heritage Railway and paid a flat fee of £8 to leave the car for a few hours. Had we wanted to park closer to the monument’s trailhead, we would have been required to pay the £12 per person fee of entering the Giant’s Causeway Visitor’s Center.

From the Bushmill Heritage Railway parking lot, Dan and I passed under a tunnel, and followed the walkway to the causeway.

The trail to the heritage-listed site passes alongside a pretty bay, before turning a bend and reaching the sea of stacked basalt columns.

Though local lore ascribes the area’s landscape to Fionn mac Cumhaill, science attributes it to the area’s volcanic activity. According to geologists, lava oozed toward the coastline and cooled off as it contacted the sea. The layers of basalt formed in columns, and the pressure between these columns sculpted them into polygonal shapes that resemble the stepping stones of giants.

Dan and I spent a bit of time scrambling up the natural jungle-gym of stacked rocks, admiring the crashing waves, and trying to dodge Instagram photoshoots.

Then, we followed the main pathway—past a column-flanked hillside—until we reached a spectacular lookout point over the surrounding cliffs.

After scrambling around and hiking in the rain, we returned to our car via an upper path that offers birds-eye views of the Giant’s Causeway.

THE OLD BUSMILLS DISTILLERY

Located only a stone’s throw away from the Giant’s Causeway, the Old Bushmills Distillery is a popular stop along the Antrim Coast Route. The distillery was founded in 1608, and is among the most renowned and oft-visited distilleries in Northern Ireland.

In order to escape the biting cold, Dan and I visited Old Bushmills for a mid-day whiskey tasting.

And while I know little about what makes a good whiskey, I did enjoy sampling drinks from the world’s first licensed distillery.

CARRICK-A-REDE ROPE BRIDGE

From the Giant’s Causeway, the spectacular coastal road continues to the popular Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge.

Spanning 66 feet in length, the Carrick-a-Rede bridge swings 100 feet above the water and rocks below. Over the past 300 years—since fishermen first constructed the bridge as a way of getting to Carrick-a-Rede Island—several versions of the bridge have existed.

The current rope bridge, built in 2008, is a solidly-built (albeit slightly vertigo-inducing) walkway that overlooks the churning waters below. Visitors can cross the bridge upon paying a £9 fee.

THE DARK HEDGES

After touring a cluster of attractions near the Giant’s Causeway, we veered away from the Antrim Coast and turned inland, toward Belfast. Along the way, we decided to make a quick stop at the Dark Hedges—another of Northern Ireland’s top Game of Thrones tour locations.

The Dark Hedges lie on a quiet road near the town of Ballymoney in County Antrim. As with the Giant’s Causeway, the sleepy tree-lined street has risen to international renown thanks to Game of Thrones.

The Dark Hedges make for haunting and eerie photographs. Like twisted octopus tentacles, the trees’ branches reach inward, forming an arch over the road

Due to the area’s popularity, we didn’t find it easy to capture the trees without swarms of people photobombing our pictures. Even on a rainy October day, the crowds were everywhere—-a bit like the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest in Kyoto.

THE BELFAST MURALS ON SHANKILL ROAD

We ended our Causeway Coast road trip in Belfast—Northern Ireland’s capital and largest city.

Admittedly, our packed itinerary allotted us very little time in Belfast. Thus, we headed straight toward the peace walls that bisect the city.

In Belfast, hundreds of colorful murals adorn the city’s walls. The poignant and moving depictions detail a century’s worth of conflicts and political divisions, both at home and abroad.

In Protestant sections of the city, murals display United Kingdom flags and celebrate Northern Ireland’s colonial relationship with Great Britain. Murals in Catholic neighborhoods boast Irish flags and commemorate the nationalists who lost their lives fighting for an end to British rule.

Shankill is Belfast’s largest Protestant community. It is separated from The Falls (the city’s largest Catholic neighborhood) by a peace wall that was first erected during ‘The Troubles.’

Reminiscent to the murals dividing Israel from Palestine, the Shankill Road murals reveal a city that is still divided. Physically, at least.

****

Though Dan and I only spent one day in Northern Ireland, our road trip was chock full of places to visit.

The Causeway Coast was deemed Lonely Planet’s #1 region to visit in 2018. A popular area of timeless beauty and mysterious intrigue, it offers samplings of Ireland and the United Kingdom in a neatly-presented and easy-to-navigate package.

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County Donegal is Ireland’s wild child. Home to some of the country’s most sublime scenery, the northwest corner of the country boasts gold-sand beaches, towering cliffs and rugged hillsides. Shrouded in mist and battered by the elements, its evocative landscapes are like the backdrop of a fantasy novel.

The Donegal road trip along the Wild Atlantic Way wraps around the topsy-turvy coastline of this Gaelic-speaking region. From abandoned castles, to quaint seaside villages, to majestic mist-covered landscapes, the winding coastal route showcases many of the top things to do in Donegal.

WILD ATLANTIC WAY: DONEGAL ROAD TRIP MAP

Dan and I chose to road trip around County Donegal during a short visit to Ireland. We were drawn to the area’s wild and unspoiled scenery, as well as to the fact that neither of us had visited the area in the past.

With only three days in Ireland, we decided to follow a portion of the Wild Atlantic Way—a 2,500km driving route that exposes the best of Ireland’s western coastline. The winding scenic road meanders past craggy outcrops, lonely beaches and windswept hillsides. It is at once subtle yet dramatic, monochrome yet colorful.

Our Wild Atlantic Way road trip began with a three hour drive from Dublin to Donegal Town. From there, we followed the coastline past sea cliffs, castles, lighthouses and sleepy coastal villages.

Exploring Donegal in-depth requires more than just two days. During our drive, we found ourselves continually taking shortcuts in order to reach our destination by nightfall. With more time, we would have loved to get lost along the lonely side roads of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way.

Regardless, our road trip allowed us to visit some of the top tourist attractions in Donegal, while giving us a sampling of the area’s untouched beauty.

THINGS TO DO IN DONEGAL

Donegal is full of things to do and places to visit. The county’s rugged interior—with its remote mountain passes and shimmering lakes—borders a labyrinthine coastline sprinkled with thousands of islets, coves, and isolated towns. County Donegal is home to the tallest cliffs in Ireland, as well as the country’s second-largest national park.

And yet, despite its surreal landscapes and picturesque scenery, it remains largely off-the-beaten-path.

We did not spot any large tour buses during our road trip around Donegal. Nor did we see any crowds along the Wild Atlantic Way. And while I am fully aware that we visited the area during a rainy week in October, I couldn’t help but feel as though we had stumbled upon a corner of the Emerald Isle that is often overlooked by travelers.

• DONEGAL TOWN

Our first stop along the Wild Atlantic Way, was Donegal—the area’s namesake town. Pretty and compact, the town sits in a photogenic spot at the mouth of Donegal Bay. Boasting a mountainous backdrop, a well-preserved castle, and a good choice of places to eat and sleep, Donegal is an excellent base for exploring the popular coastline nearby.

The Donegal Castle was closed during our visit, as was the cathedral. So instead of visiting the town’s monuments, we walked around its cute compact center and found a small cafe for lunch.

After lunch, we continued toward the majestic cliffs of Slieve League.

• SLIEVE LEAGUE CLIFFS

The Cliffs of Moher get more publicity for being one of the top things to do in Ireland, but the towering Slieve League Cliffs in Donegal are just as worthy of attention. Visiting the lofty sea cliffs is a highlight of Donegal and a must-see stop along the Wild Atlantic Way.

The cliffs of Slieve League (also known as Sliabh Liag) are among the highest in Europe—plunging some 600m into the churning sea below.

From Teelin, a narrow road leads to a lower car park. We parked our car alongside a small handful of other vehicles and began to trek onward, past a gate.

Soon, however, we realized that the narrow vehicular road continues past the gate to an upper parking lot. We turned back, retrieved our car, and drove to the top.

From the upper car park, a rough footpath leads along the edge of the precipitous cliffs, to One Man’s Pass.

We did not make it to the top due to limited daylight and blustery weather.

Still, views in every direction were nothing short of breathtaking.

From Slieve League, our route continued past the Glengesh Pass, to Ardara. There, we chose to stay the night at the lovely Lookout Ardara. The cozy guesthouse has near-perfect reviews and an idyllic setting outside of Ardara town.

I wish we had more time so that we could have lingered around Ardara and its nearby waterfall for a few days.

• GLENVEAGH NATIONAL PARK

On the following day, we headed inland for a brief visit to the Glenveagh National park. Glenveagh, Ireland’s second-largest national park, boasts a collection of mist-covered lakes, sweeping hillsides, sheep-speckled valleys and isolated forests. It showcases the best of the area’s enticing and unspoiled landscapes.

The Glenveagh Castle Gardens are the main reason that most travelers choose to visit the park. Since we visited the area on a rainy October day, we skipped the castle gardens and chose, instead, to savor views of nearby Mount Errigal and the Poisoned Glen.

• MOUNT ERRIGAL AND POISONED GLEN

Mount Errigal is Donegal’s highest mountain and one of Ireland’s most iconic natural features. At its foot, lies the Poisoned Glen—a beautiful valley at the edge of Glenveagh National Park.

‘Poisoned Glen’ is likely a mistranslation of the Irish term, Gleann Nemh (Heavenly Glen).  In Gaelic, the words heaven and poison (Neamh and neime  respectively) are confusingly similar.

At any rate, ‘Heavenly Glen’ is a much more apt description of the idyllic valley.

• HORN HEAD PENINSULA

The Horn Head Peninsula lies in the north of Donegal, adjacent to Fanad Head.

The hour-long loop drive around Horn Head encircles an area of treeless heather-clad hillsides ringed with picturesque villages. The circular road offers some stunning viewpoints of the peninsula’s towering cliffs, its quaint coastal towns and its crashing waves.

From Dunfanaghy, the coastal road skirts the left side of a beautiful inlet. As the road climbs, spectacular vistas of headlands open up to the east—revealing Rosguill, Fanad and Inishowen in the distance.

• FANAD HEAD

Fanad Head sits firmly in the Donegal Gaeltacht, sandwiched between the Horn Head Peninsula and Inishowen. Like its surroundings, the strip of land features chiseled coastline and picture-perfect vistas as every bend.

At the Peninsula’s northern terminus, sits the Fanad Head Lighthouse—a beautifully-positioned beacon that doubles as a guesthouse.

When Dan and I reached the lighthouse parking lot, a sign indicated that the Fanad Head Lighthouse was closed to visitors. We decided to get out of the car to see if we could catch a glimpse of the structure from a nearby lookout.

The wind whipped our faces. We could hear the waves crashing against the area’s rocky shoreline. Rain pelted down with a vengeance. We didn’t pack for Ireland, because traveling to the country was never part of our original plans.

So a few minutes later—shivering from the cold and soaked through to the bone—we turned back.

As soon as we reached the car, however, a man appeared out of nowhere and opened the gates. He allowed us the opportunity to visit the lighthouse grounds.

We grabbed our cameras and set out to photograph the lighthouse and its rugged surroundings. When we were sufficiently soaked, we hopped back in the car and continued toward the beaches of Ballymastocker Bay.

Dan and I found many of Donegal’s best beaches along the eastern shore of the Fanad Peninsula. While it was certainly too cold to jump into the water, we spent a bit of time soaking in views of the sandy bays before continuing on, toward our hotel in Letterkenny.

The Clanree Hotel in Letterkenny—our last-minute booking for the night—was a steal. It offered us clean spacious rooms, an affordable price, and a steamy sauna that warmed us up after a wet afternoon along the Wild Atlantic Way.

• MALIN HEAD AND THE INISHOWEN PENINSULA

Past Fanad Head, the Inishowen Peninsula constitutes the northernmost part of Ireland. Boasting wild and untouched beauty, it is one of the best places to visit in Ireland. Due to the numerous stops we made around Donegal’s Wild Atlantic Way, we opted to skip the Inishowen Peninsula and Malin Head Lighthouse altogether.

I have no doubt, however, that the area is ripe with things to see.

AN AFTERNOON IN DUBLIN

Though our Ireland itinerary focused almost exclusively on the top attractions in County Donegal, we began and ended our road trip in Dublin.

As with most tourists to Ireland, we used Dublin as our gateway to the country. The afternoon we spent in Dublin gave me a taste of the Ireland’s urban offerings. We stayed at the centrally-located Isaac’s Hostel, ate at a traditional Irish pub, and spent the better part of a day wandering through St Stephen’s Green and the Trinity College Campus.

In addition, our limited Dublin itinerary brought us on a whirlwind tour past the Temple Bar, the Dublin Castle and the secret Iveagh Gardens.

And while I know I only skimmed the surface of things to do in Ireland’s bustling and lively city, my limited itinerary gave me ample excuses to return in the future for a more in-depth visit.

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Visiting Ireland was never part of our original plan. But when a SATA Airlines strike forced us to abandon our dreams of visiting the Azores, Dan and I rushed to come up with a last-minute plan B.

We scoured the Lisbon Airport departure board in search of an alternate vacation destination. Due to time constraints, we knew we wanted to stay in Europe. We also knew we wanted access to idyllic nature, verdant scenery, and sleepy coastal towns.

Seemingly at random, we chose to fly to Dublin and take a Donegal road trip along the Wild Atlantic Way. We had few plans, no set itinerary, and limited knowledge of the area.

Yet, in every single way, Ireland’s County Donegal delivered.

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Toledo is one of Spain’s most magnificent and storied cities. Positioned on a hill overlooking the Tagus River, the attraction-packed gem is a popular day trip from Madrid and a highlight of travel to Central Spain.

Much of Toledo’s beauty lies in its pretty church-speckled streets, its decorated synagogue walls and its tucked-away mosques. With its monument-laden core, Toledo is a testament to the harmony which once existed between the world’s three monotheistic faiths. As a result, mosques, cathedrals and synagogues cram into the city’s dense and compact core.

Walking in the footsteps of these religious treasures remains the most compelling thing to do in present-day Toledo.

DAY TRIP FROM MADRID TO TOLEDO

I organized a day trip to Toledo with my future mother-in-law, following a whirlwind five days in Barcelona, Andorra and Madrid. Toledo is one of the most popular day trip destinations from Madrid both because of its proximity, and because of its wealth of historical attractions.

If at all possible, visiting the city should be a top priority when traveling to Central Spain.

GETTING FROM MADRID TO TOLEDO

Toledo lies roughly 75km from Madrid. Its close proximity to the Spanish capital makes it easily reachable using a variety of public transportation methods and organized tours. Since we wanted to explore the city at our own leisure and didn’t want to deal with the hassle of renting a car, we opted to take the train.

High speed trains between Madrid’s Atocha Station and Toledo are both frequent and convenient. The train journey takes about 30 minutes and costs roughly €14 each way. Buses traveling the route are a bit cheaper, but take upwards of an hour for the same journey.

Our train ride to Toledo from Madrid was fast, comfortable and convenient. Seemingly in the blink of an eye, we found ourselves standing in front of the Moorish-influenced train station, just a stone’s throw away from the gates of Toledo’s old city.

THINGS TO DO IN TOLEDO SPAIN

From the Toledo Station, we headed through the Puerta del Sol, into Toledo’s old town. Immediately, we found ourselves lost in a maze of intriguing side streets, hidden churches, lively plazas, and shops selling delectable sweets.

Toledo is teeming with things to see and do—from sampling marzipan pastries, to shopping for knives, to discovering historical relics. It is no wonder that the UNESCO-laden gem is such a popular day trip from Madrid.

We had little in the way of an organized itinerary before visiting Toledo. And yet, by simply wandering through Toledo’s streets and alleyways, we stumbled upon many of its top attractions regardless.

• VISIT ZOCODOVER SQUARE

We began our self-guided walking tour of Toledo at the lively Zocodover Square. A central gathering place, the square has long been the hub of Toledo’s old town. From the 1400s until the 1960s, Zocodover was the scene of the city’s Arab Souk al-Dawab. 

Today, though the square shows no indication that it was once an Arab market, it is nonetheless a nice place to visit and a good starting point for tours of the old city center.

• LOOK UP AT THE ALCAZAR

Towering over the city’s labyrinthine streets and a few paces from Zocodover Square, looms the foreboding Alcazar.

The Alcazar of Toledo is a stone fortification located in the highest part of the city. Originally constructed as a Roman palace, the since-remodeled structure became the site of a ten-week siege during the Spanish Civil War in 1936. The siege—which resulted in the capture of some 2,000 people and culminated in the hostage-taking of Colonel Jose Moscardo’s 16 year old son, Luis—made the building a centerpiece of Spanish lore and a symbol of the country’s nationalism.

Today, the imposing Alcazar houses Toledo’s military museum.

• GAPE AT THE TOLEDO CATHEDRAL

From the Alcazar, we walked to the Toledo Cathedral–a masterpiece of Spanish architecture. The cathedral dates back to the 1200s. Its unique architecture contains a melting pot of styles, including Gothic, Mudéjar and Renaissance.

Armed with the regrettable attitude that a church is a church is a church, we chose not to pay the cathedral’s €10 entrance fee. Later, however, after seeing images of the church’s alter and vaulted ceilings, we realized we had made a mistake.

Travelers who—like us—would like to get a glimpse of the church’s interior without paying €10, can peek into the cathedral using a small side door that provides access to one of its chapels.

• VISIT THE REYES MONASTERY

The imposing 15th century Reyes Monastery sits in the heart of Toledo’s Jewish quarter. Constructed by Catholic monarchs Isabel and Fernando, the Franciscan Monastery was built with the intention of demonstrating the supremacy of Christianity.

The highlight of the monastery is is a two-level cloister that surrounds a manicured garden. The cloister reminded me of the courtyard in Lisbon’s Jeronimos Monastery. It boasts elaborate stonework, intricate arches, and vaulted ceilings.

Entrance to the Reyes Monastery costs €3.

• ADMIRE THE SANTA MARIA LA BLANCA SYNAGOGUE-TURNED-CHURCH

From the Reyes Monastery, we entered the exquisite Church of Santa Maria la Blanca. The delicate structure—originally known as the Ibn Shoshan Synagogue—is a synagogue-turned church that dates back to the 1100s.

The exquisite building displays the Mudéjar style of architecture. Characterized by ornamentation and Islamic-influenced motifs, the style was popularly used by the Muslim, Christian, and Jewish builders who lived in parts of Moorish Spain.

Muslim architects built the Ibn Shoshan Synagogue on Christian soil. Its construction reflects the religious tolerance of Medieval Toledo.

In the early 15th century, Christians renamed the structure and turned it into a church.

Today, Santa Maria la Blanca has been deconsecrated, beautifully restored, and opened to the public as a museum.

• DINE IN ONE OF TOLEDO’S TRADITIONAL EATERIES

Toledo may be a small city, but it punches above its weight when it comes to food. In 2016, the city was deemed Spain’s Capital of Gastronomy.

In Toledo, stews made of rabbit, venison and partridge, are common fare. After a morning of sightseeing, we chose to stop by a lovely outdoor restaurant in Toledo’s old town for a bite of traditional food. My mother-in-law and I shared a meal of partridge and rabbit. The food was delicious and beautifully presented.

Toledo’s gastronomical appeal extends to its sweets. According to Spanish folklore, the nuns at the Convent of St Clement invented Marzipan during the 16th century. And while the veracity of the claim has been contested, residents of Toledo have embraced the sweet almond paste as entirely their own.

As a result, Toledo is chock-a-block full of shops selling marzipan in nearly every shape and form.

Needless to say, we made several stops to sample the sweet confections.

• RELISH THE BEST VIEWPOINT IN TOLEDO

The Mirador del Valle is Toledo’s best-known viewpoint. It sits across the river from the city’s downtown core, located a half hour on foot from the train station. Due to poor lighting, we chose to skip the Mirador del Valle. We realized that if we wanted to stop by the viewpoint, it would have been best to visit in the morning, immediately after arriving in Toledo.

In the afternoon, the sun’s position casts shadows over the city—making Toledo’s most photogenic viewpoint unfavorable for photography.

Instead, we realized we were better off soaking in the city’s skyline views from the Idelfonso Church Bell Tower.

The view from the bell tower is one of the finest in Toledo and well worth the €3 entrance fee.

ADDITIONAL THINGS TO SEE IN TOLEDO

For being such a small city, Toledo packs a lot of punch. A UNESCO World Heritage Site that boasts  some of Spain’s finest monuments, it merits at least an overnight visit.

Since I only had time to visit Toledo as a day trip from Madrid, I was not able to experience all the top things to do in Toledo firsthand.

If I could go back in time, however, I would have done a few things differently in order to ensure I made the most of my day trip.

First off, I would have purchased a €10 tourist wristband that allows for entrance into six of the town’s top monuments. The wristband includes three of the sites we visited (the Church of San Idelfonso, the Church of Santa Maria la Blanca and the Reyes Monastery), as well as access to the Iglesia del Salvator, the Mosque of Cristo de la Luz and the Church of Santo Tome.

Each site costs €3 to visit individually, making the combination ticket a fantastic value for money.

In addition to the sites that can be accessed with a wristband, I wish we would have entered the Toledo Cathedral and visited the El Transito Synagogue.

When we traveled to Toledo, we knew we wanted to visit a synagogue. What we didn’t know, is that Toledo houses two within spitting distance of each other. And while we enjoyed setting foot in the lovely white-arched synagogue-turned-church of Santa Maria la Blanca, we would have loved to see the stucco decorations of El Transito as well.

EVENING IN MADRID

After our unforgettable day trip to Toledo, we headed to Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel for dinner. The market—adjacent to Plaza Mayor— is a foodie-lover’s paradise that overflows with an enticing variety of tapas and cocktails.

Once we filled our bellies with an assortment of savory treats from the market’s food hall, we headed to the nearby San Gines Chocolateria for a tasty dessert of churros and chocolate.

Following our indulgence in some of the tastiest Spanish foods, we had a few hours to enjoy the jovial atmosphere of Madrid’s historic downtown.

Madrid is a city that exceeded my expectations. For some reason, I’d always viewed Madrid as second to Barcelona. As a result, I only really considered visiting the city with the intention of using it as a gateway to Toledo.

Yet my limited time in Madrid made me realize that Spain’s largest city is not merely a financial and political hub. On the contrary, an ideal Madrid itinerary includes visits to regal buildings, pleasant streets, world-class museums and leafy parks.

Between Madrid’s nightlife, its jovial atmosphere, its pretty aesthetics and its vibrant food scene, Spain’s capital city quickly made me feel as though I’d set foot in one of Europe’s most livable cities.

Fortunately, prior to our day trip to Toledo, we had a half day to wander Madrid’s parks and visit its exceptional Prado Museum.

Still, the lack of time we dedicated to Madrid meant we were only able to skim the surface of what the city has to offer.

As a result, I now have every intention of using Madrid as a launching point for future visits to Spain.

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While I spent the first part of my Spain vacation revisiting places I had seen nearly a decade prior, I was excited to add a new Spanish city to my travel repertoire.

And Toledo didn’t disappoint.

Toledo is one of the most beautiful cities in Spain and an easy day trip from Madrid. It is the type of place that feels frozen in time. The type of place where artisans have perfected their craft for centuries. The type of place where culinary traditions are alive and well.

As I walked through the city’s streets and admired its monument-crammed core, it wasn’t difficult to imagine a time when Toledo was one of Spain’s most important cities. Or a time when interfaith cooperation in the city meant that the world’s three monotheistic religions coexisted in harmony.

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