Costa Rica Archives - Erika's Travels

Wind and Rain in the Santa Elena Cloud Forest

Erika Bisbocci — Mon, 25 May 2015 13:03:00 +0000

Monteverde is the Costa Rica of travel brochures and its very name conjures images of cloud-shrouded forests, swinging skybridges and elusive quetzals. It is the Costa Rica that has drawn millions of tourists to its rainforest canopies for wildlife viewing and zip-lining.

I’d heard nothing but rave reviews about zip-lining above the canopies of the Santa Elena Cloud Forest and I, too, was hoping to partake in one of Costa Rica’s most sought-after activities. I couldn’t wait to observe life high above the treetops.

But, as much as we can plan every meticulous detail and attempt to take control of our surroundings while traveling, there are always forces out of our control. In Monteverde, it was the unexpected inclement weather that nearly blew me off the mountaintop and chased me down the mountain and across the border into Nicaragua.

Scenery near Monteverde Costa Rica

It did not always appear that we would lose the battle with adverse weather.

The long ride from the Osa Peninsula to Monteverde was pleasant and scenic–giving no indication of the fierce winds and rains we were to meet at the top of the mountain. We stopped at numerous spots to take in the views of the rolling green mountains and pulled over to watch the sun set over the Bay of Nicoya. We thought nothing of the light mountain breeze the rest of the way to our hostel and I was beginning to have the sensation that I would love the little town of Santa Elena that sat along a gravel road, among the remote and tropical green hills of Costa Rica’s North.

But when we reached the town and stepped out of the car, we were greeted by a fierce wind that nearly knocked us to the ground.

And through the night and all the next day, the relentless wind did not give up.

It turns out that we visited the Monteverde right as a hurricane-like storm began brewing over the Atlantic and the winds carried the inclement weather right to the ridge of the Costa Rican mountains.

Despite the weather, we were optimistic and ambitious the evening we arrived, so we decided to spend the next day hiking among the dense greenery of the Santa Elena Cloud Forest.

We tried to make the best of the weather and bundled up in rain gear to hike the muddy paths of the Santa Elena Cloud Forest. We bought ponchos, rented rain boots and trudged through the mud.

As I walked among the green vines dripping with water and admired the colorful flowers that contrasted with the varying shades of green around me, I felt as though I had stepped into a fairy tale. The dense forest was spectacular, but enjoying our surroundings became more tedious as the cold water seeped through the holes in our boots and soaked our socks. The trees in the cloud forest shielded us somewhat from the strong winds, though the rain still found ways of creeping through our layers of rain gear.

After a few hours of hiking along the paths of the reserve, we returned to the hostel and reevaluated our plans.

We could have waited for the hurricane-like conditions to let up so that we could partake in the activities that drew us to Monteverde in the first place, but there was no knowing how long it would be.

In the end, I reluctantly agreed to leave Monteverde prematurely in search of sunnier skies.

Santa Elena Cloud Forest

It was not easy for me to leave Monteverde without exploring all the things to do there. And if I’d had more time in Monteverde, I probably would have waited stubbornly for the storm to subside. After all, as an Oregonian, I have no issue putting up with a little rain.

But what we experienced in Monteverde was more than just “a little rain” and so, given the adverse conditions we encountered, we let the relentless winds defeat us–sending us running down the mountain and to warm beaches of Nicaragua’s San Juan del Sur instead.

I wish I could say that I experienced the Costa Rica of travel brochures while walking along the sky bridges of the Santa Elena Cloud Forest. I wish I could have zipped through the canopy at 70 miles an hour and experienced the thrill of flying above the treetops.

Things may have not gone according to plan, but at least I now have a reason to return to Monteverde in the future.

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Wildlife in Corcovado National Park

Erika Bisbocci — Mon, 18 May 2015 19:31:00 +0000

Deemed by National Geographic as the most biologically intense place on Earth in terms of biodiversity, Costa Rica’s Corcovado National Park is home to 2.5% of the species found on the planet.

The park houses thirteen major ecosystems, including cloud forest, lowland rainforest, palm forest, mangrove swamps and coastal and underwater habitats. It is due to the park’s diversity of habitats, that tourists visiting Corcovado can view animals ranging from playful monkeys and elusive tapirs, to deadly fer-de-lance snakes, radiant macaws and elegant angelfish.

COSTA RICA’S CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK

The 424 square kilometer park on Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula is the largest in the country and everything I imagined it would be—raw, wild and teaming with life. The pages of our Lonely Planet guide made Corcovado seem so remote and impenetrable, that it could only be reached by either the wealthiest or the most intrepid of travelers. It described that there were no roads leading into the interior of the park and that, to reach the ranger stations, one must either fly in on a bush plane or embark on a daunting and perilous trek into the park’s wild interior.

Reading about the park had us so intimidated, that we almost decided to forego visiting Corcovado altogether—until we spotted a flyer in our Manuel Antonio hostel that advertised a three day excursion with the Corcovado Adventure Tent Camp.

CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK TOUR

The $400 price tag of the tour was a bit steep for our budgets, but after some discussion and number crunching, we decided to splurge and book the tour regardless.

Corcovado Adventure Tent Camp is paradise. It is remote, wild and completely uncontaminated by eyesore resorts and concrete hotel chains.

The camp sits on its own stretch of gold-sand beaches that are speckled with jet-black volcanic rocks and flanked on one side by lush green foliage and on the other by the blue waters of the mighty Pacific.

The tent camp was our home base during the three days we spent in the Osa Peninsula and the price tag on the accommodation included boat transfers from Sierpe, accommodation, meals, a guided hike into the heart of Corcovado National Park, a snorkel trip to Cano Island and access to the kayaks, hammocks and wilderness trails from the camp.

Though the tent camp we stayed at was not within the boundaries of Corcovado National Park, it may very well have been. The area around our fancy tents was rugged, wild and completely awe-inspiring. As with the luxury camps that I had often come across in Africa but never stayed at, nature was everywhere.

WILDLIFE SAFARI IN CORCOVADO PARK

During our first day at the camp, we spent the afternoon walking along the trails that led from our accommodation to Rio Claro. We traversed tawny crescents of beach and, along the way, stopped to admire groups of mischievous capuchins swinging in trees and dazzling scarlet macaws flying overhead.

I felt as though I had just entered the glossy pages of National Geographic’s latest issue.

The next morning we woke up promptly at 6:00am and headed out for the jungle shortly after breakfast. The camp had organized a boat transfer to the national park and a guided hike for us that would bring us face to face with a variety of animals that inhabit the rainforest at Corcovado.

We began our walk at the Sirena Ranger Station and headed into the jungle. Layers of green foliage were so dense that it was difficult to spot animals on our own, though all around us we could hear singing birds and howling monkeys. Along the way, our guide pointed out the animals we would have never spotted on our own–adorable spider monkeys, lethal fer-de-lance snakes, coatis, peccaries, lizards, spiders, anteaters and birds. We even had the privilege of sneaking upon the hidden lair of the elusive and nocturnal Baird’s Tapir.

Though I often had good views of the wildlife with my naked eye, the dense shrubbery and branches made it difficult to capture unobstructed photos of the animals. As a result, the photos I have of our hike do no justice to what we saw at Corcovado National Park.

CANO ISLAND SNORKELING IN CORCOVADO

The next day, I embarked on a snorkel tour to Cano Island and caught a glimpse of the underwater wonderland that contributes to the Osa Peninsula’s vast biodiversity.

Cano Island is a biological preserve located 10 miles off the coast of the Osa Peninsula. Its waters house a diverse array of marine life, including colorful tropical fish, rays, dolphins and whales.

The visibility was excellent and I swam among schools of colorful parrotfish and angelfish, following them around outcrops of volcanic rock.

To cap off another excellent day of wildlife viewing, we witnessed a pod of dolphins darting playfully in our wake as we made our way back to the camp.

What made our stay at the Corcovado Adventure Tent Camp truly special, is that our animal sightings were not limited to the hours we spent within the confines of Corcovado National Park. In fact, some of our best interactions with animals occurred within the boundaries of our tent camp itself. On numerous occasions, we saw the frisky capuchins swinging in the trees above our tents. We spotted hermit crabs scuttling along the beach and little leaf-cutter ants hard at work on the forest floor. We witnessed eagles and colorful macaws flying overhead.

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I look back on my three days in Corcovado as time spent in paradise. It is just how I imagine the world must have been like before humans set out to destroy many natural habitats by clear-cutting forests and transforming them into concrete jungles.

Some places–especially those that are remote and difficult to access–can come with a hefty price tag for visitors. But splurging is sometimes necessary, even when traveling Costa Rica on a budget. And I reckon there are not many places that merit a splurge as much as the Osa Peninsula–with its crescents of gold sand beaches and its pristine habitats.

I guess if I am going to empty my wallet anywhere, I may as well do it with a visit to the most biologically intense place on Earth.

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Further Reading:

If you enjoyed reading about the biodiversity in Corcovado National Park, check out Megan’s article on the world’s top destinations for wildlife viewing.
I recommend you check out Samantha and Yeison’s blog, My Tan Feet, if you have plans to travel to Costa Rica. Their website contains a wealth of information on Costa Rica, including a complete breakdown of costs associated with travel to the country.

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Manuel Antonio National Park

Erika Bisbocci — Thu, 30 Apr 2015 21:44:00 +0000

“Pura vida!”

We heard it as we stepped off the plane. And again when we entered the cab. And again at the bus stop. And again at the hostel. And again when we ordered food. And again and again from strangers on the street.

Costa Rica’s motto—pura vida—permeates every aspect of life in the countrys. The slogan is embedded into the very fabric of the small nation’s character. Translated into English as “pure life,” pura vida is the law of the land in Costa Rica. It is at once a greeting, a welcome and a simple affirmation of the fullness of life.

Yet as soon as we arrived in Manuel Antonio National Park, it became apparent that pura vida is not only a lifestyle, but also a slogan highlighting the natural environment in the country–an environment so raw, that it has drawn tourists from around the globe to its wild interiors and pristine landscapes.

Manuel Antonio Park in Costa Rica

Costa Rica’s expansive national parks system and abundant natural diversity is, in part, thanks to the aggressive stance the country has taken to ensure that its unique ecosystem can be enjoyed for future generations. Twenty-six percent of the land in Costa Rica is protected in an extensive patchwork of national parks.

We began our trip to Costa Rica at the smallest, yet most famous of Costa Rica’s parks—Manuel Antonio. A popular tourist attraction, Manuel Antonio can be easily reached from the country’s capital, San Jose. The park is known for its pretty beaches, its dense rainforest, and its large concentration of monkeys and sloths.

Although Manuel Antonio is Costa Rica’s smallest national park, its diversity of wildlife is staggering. Over 100 species of mammals and nearly two hundred bird species call the area home.

The park’s combination of pristine beaches and abundant wildlife has made it one of the top places to visit in Costa Rica.

Manuel Antonio Travel Logistics

Manual Antonio is one of Costa Rica’s top places for wildlife viewing. As such, the nearby town of Quepos—once a sleepy coastal fishing village—has ballooned into a tourist mecca For most travelers to Manuel Antonio, Quepos makes a logical home base.

The town boasts a large array of food and accommodation options, and even has two public beaches that rival those found within the park’s boundaries.

Public Beach near Quepos

Within its boundaries, Manuel Antonio is a wonderland for lovers of nature and wildlife. Entrance to the park costs $16 per person. The fee gives toursis access to the area’s hiking trails and beaches.

Where to Stay near the National Park

During our visit to Manuel Antonio, we chose to spend two nights at Hostel Vista Serena. The hostel offers budget accommodation, a helpful staff, and unparalleled sunset views from its balcony.

Travelers looking for a step up in luxury may want to check out MyCasa’s B&B (midrange) or the Parador Resort and Spa (high end).

Getting to and from Manuel Antonio

For travelers without their own private vehicles, the public bus is a convenient way of traveling between Quepos and Manuel Antonio. The buses travel roughly every half hour between the hours of 5:45am and 9:00pm. As they travel the hilly two-mile stretch of paved road that links Quepos with the national park, they stop at various locations en-route.

Wildlife in Manuel Antonio

In contrast to the national parks in Southern Africa, where the wide open spaces and concentrated watering holes made independent animal viewing easy, we found it difficult to spot animals on our own in Manuel Antonio. It became immediately evident that a guide would be necessary in order to enjoy the park’s offerings to the fullest.

Yet, since we had decided to visit Costa Rica’s Corcovado National Park–the country’s premier biodiversity hotspot–in a few days, we chose to scrimp on a guide at Manuel Antonio and do our best at detecting the shapes in the trees on our own.

Manuel Antonio National Park is home to all four of Costa Rica’s monkey species. By walking down the well-maintained paths and stopping wherever we saw tour groups gathered, we were able to see two of the species–the roaring howler monkeys and the frisky white-faced capuchins, in addition to an array of other birds and reptiles.

The highlight of my day in Manuel Antonio, however, came just as we were about to exit the park and head back to the hostel. I was just reiterating my desire to see a sloth and expressing disappointment that I had never gotten a good look at one, when we walked by two people pointing into a trees near the park’s exit.

I looked at where the two tourists were pointing, trying to differentiate between animals, leaves and clumps of dirt. At first, I didn’t see anything. Then I let my eyes focus on the little brown lump in one of the trees and, there I saw it. A nearly motionless creature, turning its head slowly toward us as if stuck in molasses.

I was thrilled. I finally got to see the adorable animal that I had failed to get a good glimpse of while in Bocas del Toro, Panama.

Beaches in Manuel Antonio National Park

Manuel Antonio is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Costa Rica. The main beaches in Manuel Antonio are Playa Manuel Antonio, Playa Escondido, and Playa Espadilla. Just outside the park, lie the beaches of Espadilla, Biesanz and Playitas.

In contrast to the grey sands outside the park, the beaches of Manuel Antonio boast luminous crescents of white sand. We spent an afternoon enjoying the calm surf and glistening white sands of Playa Manuel Antonio. Throughout our visit, the resident iguanas kept us company.

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Costa Rica is a country renowned for its natural beauty and unspoilt environment. It is a country that appreciates its wealth of natural attractions and does its best to ensure they remain pristine.

My visit to Manuel Antonio was my first encounter with the dizzying variety of animals that reside in the jungles of Central America. And while it did not afford me the frequency and ease of animal sightings that I had experienced in Africa, my encounters with Costa Rica’s fauna were no less special.

As I peered through the thicket of trees and spotted a sloth slowly chew on a clump of leaves, I felt the thrill of the animal encounter as though it were my first. And when he it turned toward us with its perpetual slothy grin, I couldn’t help but think ‘This is it. This is it what Costa Rica is all about.’

Pura vida.

Pure life.

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