Granada is Nicaragua’s emblematic city– a picture-perfect colonial gem that lies just south of Managua on the country’s main tourist circuit.

The city’s photogenic, cobbled streets amble between rows of brightly colored houses and are perfectly framed by a mountainous backdrop. Granada is widely recognized as one of the oldest European settlements in the Americas and, like most European cities, centers around a square, a church and a vibrant pedestrian promenade.

With the rise of tourism in Nicaragua, Granada has drawn a steady stream of visitors and expats to its well-preserved architecture and proximity to lakes, beaches and volcanoes. As a result, the town’s designation as a tourist magnet has ensured that the streets are neatly manicured, the paint freshly applied and the cobbled streets free of rubbish and debris.

We visited Granada and its surroundings at the end of our two week trip to Costa Rica and Nicaragua and explored the picturesque town for two days–perusing art galleries, photographing colonial churches and taking in the vibrant colors of the freshly painted buildings.

However, peeling back the fresh layers of paint and looking behind the town’s charming facade, reveals a very different Nicaragua. A Nicaragua that is still trying to recover economically from many years of violence. One does not have to go far to witness widespread suffering in the country.

Along the streets and on park benches, homeless Nicaraguans attempt to eke out a living by peddling for change. and, while eating dinner at one of Calle La Calzada’s outdoor cafes can be overwhelmingly reminiscent of dining in Europe, the constant flow of beggars and street vendors serves as a reminder that, despite its appearance, Granada is still situated in one of the poorest countries in the Western Hemisphere.

Calle La Calzada is the hub of tourist activity in the city and the street stretches from the town’s central park to the shore of Lake Nicaragua. It is chock a block full of hotels, tour operators and restaurants that cater to travelers and expats. The restaurants have elevated prices that most locals could only dream of affording.

And therein lies my internal conflict with Granada for, though I thoroughly enjoyed the city and would return to its picturesque streets in a heartbeat, the juxtaposition of rich and poor is impossible to ignore and difficult to swallow.

It is unfortunately a pattern that I have come to see time and time again in the developing world.

With Granada as our home base, we spent the next day exploring the area outside the city. From Granada, countless tour operators advertise day trips to the surrounding islands, lakes and mountains. Instead of taking an organized tour, however, we decided to reach the Masaya Volcano by taking a series of local chicken buses.

The Masaya Volcano sits just outside the limits of Masaya city–home to Nicaragua’s largest market. The market is enormous and we could have spent the whole day navigating its different sections, from the fruit stands to the piles of secondhand clothes and from the street food kiosks to the stalls of dripping meat.

Yet our main objective in visiting Masaya was to climb to the top of the active Volcano outside the city.

The Masaya Volcano was designated a national park in 1979 and contains two volcanoes and five craters.  Today, visitors can enjoy a series of trails that lead around the various calderas. The largest of the calderas is the Santiago crater, which spews large amounts of sulfur dioxide into the air.

Because of its emission of noxious gasses and the red hue that can at times be seen when visiting the volcano at night, Spanish invaders during the 16th century nicknamed the volcano the “Gates to Hell” and attempted to exorcise its demons by erecting a large cross on its rim. The cross, known as La Cruz de Bobadilla, attempts to warn people of the “Gates to Hell” below.

Due to the spewing sulfur, tourists are discouraged from spending too much time on the lip of the volcano. So, after a few minutes of peering down into the smoky abyss, we ventured around the rim of some of the dormant craters for sweeping views of the mountainous landscape and vast Lake Nicaragua.

The views were breathtaking.

On our way back to Granada for our last night in Central America, we stopped by the town of Catarina for a quick glimpse at the blue waters of the scenic Laguna de Apoyo.

Many travelers recommended we spend a full day at the laguna and swim in its sapphire waters. And I’m sure that a day at the lake would have been a wonderful addition to our itinerary.

Yet, after two weeks on the road, it was time to wrap up our foray into Central America and return to work.

Our trip to Costa Rica and Nicaragua brought us face to face with beautiful beaches, impressive geology, historic cities and abundant wildlife. It highlighted the diversity and contrasts inherent in the region–its wealth its poverty, its present peace and its violent history.

The trip also rounded off my visit to all of the countries in Central America, though the area is so varied and diverse that there are still many places I have yet to see.

So, while I can now superficially say I have been able to check the countries in Central America off my list, I know that my travels in the region are far from finished.

***

Note: For more information on backpacking in Nicaragua, check out Will’s Nicaragua travel guide.

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OMETEPE NICARAGUA: THINGS TO SEE AND DO

• OJO DE AGUA

WHERE TO STAY ON OMETEPE ISLAND

There are plenty of lovely places to stay on Isla de Ometepe. The island is a popular destination when backpacking Nicaragua due to its affordable prices and attractive offerings. Most of the island’s accommodations are quite inexpensive by international standards.

On the budget end of the spectrum, El Bamboo Cabins boasts unique accommodation on the shores of the lake. Guests rave about its waterside location, its friendly hosts, and its clean yet basic rooms.

If you’re okay splurging, the lovely Villa Ometepe caters to those seeking higher end accommodation. The three bedroom home has hammocks, a soaking pool, a kitchenette, and lovely island views from its terrace.

ISLA DE OMETEPE FERRY

There are two ports on Ometepe: Moyogalpa and San Juan. Both are serviced by boats, though the vast majority of the ferries and boats arrive in Moyogalpa, the island’s main town.

Ferries and lanchas make the trip between San Jorge and Ometepe Island. It takes between 45 minutes (lanchas) and an hour (ferries) to complete the one-way journey.

Departures are frequent and don’t require advanced reservations.You can check the up-to-date timetables at ometepenicaragua.com.

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Once a sleepy fishing village on the Pacific Ocean, San Juan del Sur has become a popular surfing mecca for young backpackers.

San Juan del Sur’s colorful clapboard houses line an expansive crescent of silvery sand. They sit in the shadow of rolling mountains, under the watchful gaze of the world’s second tallest Jesus statue.

In recent years, backpackers and surfers have changed the face of San Juan del Sur. The popular tourist destination houses an eclectic mix of locals and bleached-blonde surfers. Fancy fish restaurants line the city’s beach. Its streets abound with surf rental shops and stores selling swimwear.

A quick visit to the beachside town made it immediately apparent that Nicaragua is no longer off the beaten tourist trail. Young travelers from around the world have caught on to the country’s low prices and abundant outdoor activities and are flocking to colorful San Juan del Sur for the opportunity to catch the perfect wave.

NICARAGUA’S COLORFUL SURF TOWN

Nicaragua is no stranger to colorful towns. After all, its tourist hub is Granada—a small city famed for its brightly painted colonial buildings.

The colorful streets of San Juan del Sur are certainly eye-catching, but they are not the reason that backpackers have begun flocking to the area in waves. The combination of beach-lounging, surfing, and partying has led San Juan del Sur to become one of Nicaragua’s premier tourist hangouts.

Playa Hermosa is famous for its long expanse of sand and its perfect surfing waves. The beach lies about half an hour away from San Juan del Sur. To reach Playa Hermosa, we had to travel roughly twenty minutes down a dirt road, away from the heavily trafficked main thoroughfare.

We found Playa Hermosa to be relatively deserted and perfectly peaceful.

The area around Playa Hermosa is completely undeveloped. There are no towering resorts or luxury beachfront properties. The lack of large hotels and resorts in San Juan del Sur made the beach all the more appealing. Yet, considering the volume of tourists we had seen in San Juan del Sur, we agreed that it would only be a matter of time before developers tapped into the prime real estate.

We agreed that Playa Hermosa beach should be enjoyed while the seclusion lasts.

Our shuttle from Playa Hermosa to San Juan del Sur was scheduled to leave at 6pm–giving us just enough time to enjoy the sunset before heading back to town. We swung in our hammocks, sipped on our fruity drinks and watched the sky slowly illuminate into a palette of yellows and oranges.

 

OLIVE RIDLEY TURTLES IN SAN JUAN DEL SUR

The beaches near San Juan del Sur—including Playa Hermosa—are nesting grounds for Olive Ridley Turtles. Each year, between the months of July and December, the tiny turtles nest on the vast windswept beaches of southern Nicaragua.

Initially, we had considered joining a tour that would bring us to La Flor Nature Reserve near San Juan del Sur. In the end, however, but opted against it since we were afraid we had arrived after the prime viewing season.

As luck would have it, however, we didn’t need a tour to see the baby Olive Ridley turtles.

As the colors of the sky began to intensify, I saw a crowd of people gather at the water’s edge. I ignored the crowd at first, thinking that they had likely gathered together to take pictures of the vermillion sky.

Yet, when the crowd began to grow larger and seemingly unrelated people joined in the mix, my curiosity got the best of me.

So, I moved toward the crowd and then saw it–a baby turtle–scampering across the sand and into the sea!

The beaches around San Juan del Sur are nesting grounds for Olive Ridley turtles. The Olive Ridleys are the world’s smallest sea turtles–reaching a mere 60-70 centimeters in their adulthood. Olive Ridley turtles are known for their synchronized nesting called arribadas that occur once a year. During the arribadas, sea turtles populate beaches in the thousands and nearly blanket the sand in what is described as a spectacular sight.

We had decided to forego a tour to the famous nesting beach near San Juan del Sur at the advice of our hostel staff, since the nesting season had reached its end and most of the turtles had already left the beaches.

Thus, I could not believe my luck when we stumbled upon a baby Olive Ridley attempting to make its way out to sea for the first time.

I took out my camera and snapped a few pictures.

A few minutes later, another baby turtle came out of the woodwork and waddled out to sea. Its brothers and sisters followed soon after.

Within minutes, we were witnessing the journey of dozens of baby turtles as they braced themselves for their first foray into the ocean.

I thought about when I went to Sur, Oman in 2011 and was fortunate enough to have witnessed giant turtles nesting at night. And about what our guide had told us when he answered our questions about the baby turtles’ chances of surviving.

Less than one percent makes it to adulthood, I remember him saying.

I looked back at the turtles. They were visibly exhausted from being tossed so relentlessly by the waves and some were giving up.

I found one turtle that lay limp in the sand and guided it back to the ocean, watching its little legs tread water as it fought to join its brothers and sisters.

One by one, we attempted to guide all the struggling baby turtles to the sea.

The turtles had made it to the water, but their perilous journey to adulthood had only just begun. As with the newborn turtles that I had seen in Oman, I hoped that these baby Olive Ridleys could be counted amongst the lucky survivors and that, on day, they’d be able to return to Playa Hermosa to lay their own eggs and continue the circle of life.

_____________________________

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Monteverde is the Costa Rica of travel brochures and its very name conjures images of cloud-shrouded forests, swinging skybridges and elusive quetzals. It is the Costa Rica that has drawn millions of tourists to its rainforest canopies for wildlife viewing and zip-lining.

I’d heard nothing but rave reviews about zip-lining above the canopies of the Santa Elena Cloud Forest and I, too, was hoping to partake in one of Costa Rica’s most sought-after activities. I couldn’t wait to observe life high above the treetops.

But, as much as we can plan every meticulous detail and attempt to take control of our surroundings while traveling, there are always forces out of our control. In Monteverde, it was the unexpected inclement weather that nearly blew me off the mountaintop and chased me down the mountain and across the border into Nicaragua.

It did not always appear that we would lose the battle with adverse weather.

The long ride from the Osa Peninsula to Monteverde was pleasant and scenic–giving no indication of the fierce winds and rains we were to meet at the top of the mountain. We stopped at numerous spots to take in the views of the rolling green mountains and pulled over to watch the sun set over the Bay of Nicoya. We thought nothing of the light mountain breeze the rest of the way to our hostel and I was beginning to have the sensation that I would love the little town of Santa Elena that sat along a gravel road, among the remote and tropical green hills of Costa Rica’s North.

But when we reached the town and stepped out of the car, we were greeted by a fierce wind that nearly knocked us to the ground.

And through the night and all the next day, the relentless wind did not give up.

It turns out that we visited the Monteverde right as a hurricane-like storm began brewing over the Atlantic and the winds carried the inclement weather right to the ridge of the Costa Rican mountains.

But what we experienced in Monteverde was more than just “a little rain” and so, given the adverse conditions we encountered, we let the relentless winds defeat us–sending us running down the mountain and to warm beaches of Nicaragua’s San Juan del Sur instead.

I wish I could say that I experienced the Costa Rica of travel brochures while walking along the sky bridges of the Santa Elena Cloud Forest. I wish I could have zipped through the canopy at 70 miles an hour and experienced the thrill of flying above the treetops.

Things may have not gone according to plan, but at least I now have a reason to return to Monteverde in the future.

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COSTA RICA’S CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK

The 424 square kilometer park on Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula is the largest in the country and everything I imagined it would be—raw, wild and teaming with life. The pages of our Lonely Planet guide made Corcovado seem so remote and impenetrable, that it could only be reached by either the wealthiest or the most intrepid of travelers. It described that there were no roads leading into the interior of the park and that, to reach the ranger stations, one must either fly in on a bush plane or embark on a daunting and perilous trek into the park’s wild interior.

Reading about the park had us so intimidated, that we almost decided to forego visiting Corcovado altogether—until we spotted a flyer in our Manuel Antonio hostel that advertised a three day excursion with the Corcovado Adventure Tent Camp.

 

CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK TOUR

The $400 price tag of the tour was a bit steep for our budgets, but after some discussion and number crunching, we decided to splurge and book the tour regardless.

Corcovado Adventure Tent Camp is paradise. It is remote, wild and completely uncontaminated by eyesore resorts and concrete hotel chains. 

The camp sits on its own stretch of gold-sand beaches that are speckled with jet-black volcanic rocks and flanked on one side by lush green foliage and on the other by the blue waters of the mighty Pacific. 

The tent camp was our home base during the three days we spent in the Osa Peninsula and the price tag on the accommodation included boat transfers from Sierpe, accommodation, meals, a guided hike into the heart of Corcovado National Park, a snorkel trip to Cano Island and access to the kayaks, hammocks and wilderness trails from the camp.

Though the tent camp we stayed at was not within the boundaries of Corcovado National Park, it may very well have been. The area around our fancy tents was rugged, wild and completely awe-inspiring. As with the luxury camps that I had often come across in Africa but never stayed at, nature was everywhere.

 

WILDLIFE SAFARI IN CORCOVADO PARK

During our first day at the camp, we spent the afternoon walking along the trails that led from our accommodation to Rio Claro. We traversed tawny crescents of beach and, along the way, stopped to admire groups of mischievous capuchins swinging in trees and dazzling scarlet macaws flying overhead.

I felt as though I had just entered the glossy pages of National Geographic’s latest issue.

The next morning we woke up promptly at 6:00am and headed out for the jungle shortly after breakfast. The camp had organized a boat transfer to the national park and a guided hike for us that would bring us face to face with a variety of animals that inhabit the rainforest at Corcovado.

We began our walk at the Sirena Ranger Station and headed into the jungle. Layers of green foliage were so dense that it was difficult to spot animals on our own, though all around us we could hear singing birds and howling monkeys. Along the way, our guide pointed out the animals we would have never spotted on our own–adorable spider monkeys, lethal fer-de-lance snakes, coatis, peccaries, lizards, spiders, anteaters and birds. We even had the privilege of sneaking upon the hidden lair of the elusive and nocturnal Baird’s Tapir.

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“Pura vida!”

We heard it as we stepped off the plane. And again when we entered the cab. And again at the bus stop. And again at the hostel. And again when we ordered food. And again and again from strangers on the street.

Costa Rica’s motto—pura vida—permeates every aspect of life in the countrys. The slogan is embedded into the very fabric of the small nation’s character. Translated into English as “pure life,” pura vida is the law of the land in Costa Rica. It is at once a greeting, a welcome and a simple affirmation of the fullness of life.

Yet as soon as we arrived in Manuel Antonio National Park, it became apparent that pura vida is not only a lifestyle, but also a slogan highlighting the natural environment in the country–an environment so raw, that it has drawn tourists from around the globe to its wild interiors and pristine landscapes.

 

Manuel Antonio Park in Costa Rica

Costa Rica’s expansive national parks system and abundant natural diversity is, in part, thanks to the aggressive stance the country has taken to ensure that its unique ecosystem can be enjoyed for future generations. Twenty-six percent of the land in Costa Rica is protected in an extensive patchwork of national parks.

We began our trip to Costa Rica at the smallest, yet most famous of Costa Rica’s parks—Manuel Antonio. A popular tourist attraction, Manuel Antonio can be easily reached from the country’s capital, San Jose. The park is known for its pretty beaches, its dense rainforest, and its large concentration of monkeys and sloths.

Although Manuel Antonio is Costa Rica’s smallest national park, its diversity of wildlife is staggering. Over 100 species of mammals and nearly two hundred bird species call the area home.

The park’s combination of pristine beaches and abundant wildlife has made it one of the top places to visit in Costa Rica.

 

Manuel Antonio Travel Logistics

Manual Antonio is one of Costa Rica’s top places for wildlife viewing. As such, the nearby town of Quepos—once a sleepy coastal fishing village—has ballooned into a tourist mecca For most travelers to Manuel Antonio, Quepos makes a logical home base.

The town boasts a large array of food and accommodation options, and even has two public beaches that rival those found within the park’s boundaries.

Within its boundaries, Manuel Antonio is a wonderland for lovers of nature and wildlife. Entrance to the park costs $16 per person. The fee gives toursis access to the area’s hiking trails and beaches.

• Where to Stay near the National Park

During our visit to Manuel Antonio, we chose to spend two nights at Hostel Vista Serena. The hostel offers budget accommodation, a helpful staff, and unparalleled sunset views from its balcony.

Travelers looking for a step up in luxury may want to check out MyCasa’s B&B (midrange) or the Parador Resort and Spa (high end).

• Getting to and from Manuel Antonio

For travelers without their own private vehicles, the public bus is a convenient way of traveling between Quepos and Manuel Antonio. The buses travel roughly every half hour between the hours of 5:45am and 9:00pm. As they travel the hilly two-mile stretch of paved road that links Quepos with the national park, they stop at various locations en-route.

 

Wildlife in Manuel Antonio

In contrast to the national parks in Southern Africa, where the wide open spaces and concentrated watering holes made independent animal viewing easy, we found it difficult to spot animals on our own in Manuel Antonio. It became immediately evident that a guide would be necessary in order to enjoy the park’s offerings to the fullest.

Yet, since we had decided to visit Costa Rica’s Corcovado National Park–the country’s premier biodiversity hotspot–in a few days, we chose to scrimp on a guide at Manuel Antonio and do our best at detecting the shapes in the trees on our own.

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Imagine a place where palm-fringed islands lie shimmering amongst turquoise waters. A place where gentle waves rise and fall against powdery sands. One where a simpler pace of life prevails.

And imagine that this place, devoid of cars and concrete, has remained seemingly untouched by the modern world. As though time stood still in 1491.

Though this description may seem like a rendering of paradise, I promise it exists—not merely in my dreams—but also in the remote and paradisiacal San Blas Islands of Panama.

THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS (GUNA YALA)

The Comarca de San Blas (also known as Guna Yala/Kuna Yala) is a semi-autonomous region of Panama. The territory consists of over 360 picture-perfect islands the dot the Caribbean waters between Panama and Colombia.

Strung across the emerald sea and blessed with snow-white sand, the islands are straight out of a tourist brochure.

Considering their beauty, you’d expect the San Blas islands to be overrun with cruise ships and camera-toting tourists.

Yet while the archipelago’s beaches rival those of other Caribbean islands (including St Martin, Anguilla, and the USVI, among others), the Panamanian territory lack the large-scale tourism amenities found elsewhere.

On the San Blas Islands, you won’t find all-inclusive resorts or tacky souvenir shops. The islands paint a picture of what the Caribbean might have been like in decades past, before the era of overdevelopment.

THE GUNA (KUNA) PEOPLE OF SAN BLAS

The Guna (also known as Kuna) are an ethnic group that inhabits Panama’s cluster of idyllic islands. Known for their independent way of life, they are a small yet proud community of around 300,000 people.

The Guna have a long history of resistance toward western influences. Many regard them as one of the most fiercely independent ethnic groups in the world.

During the beginning of the twentieth century, Panama’s government attempted to suppress the Guna way of life. It tried to ban the their traditional dress and attempted to dissolve their religious practices. Yet, the indigenous group faced the government with bitter opposition and revolted in what became known as the Tule Revolution of 1925.

After the Guna rebellion, the Panamanian government granted the ethnic group semi-autonomous status. This autonomy prompted the Guna to create their own internal laws and policies under the jurisdiction of Panama’s government.

The Guna people have fought fiercely to protect their land from foreign investments and influence.

As a result, there are no foreign-owned resort chains on the islands. Nor are there expat-run guesthouses or hostels. In fact, the only way to visit the San Blas Islands is to stay in a Guna-run homestay or cabin.

THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS: A TOURISM SUCCESS STORY

As tourists, it was comforting to know that the money we spent while on the islands was falling directly into the hands of the community.

In a world where “getting away from it all” often means disconnecting from locals and staying in insular all-inclusive resorts, it was wonderful to go somewhere that was both so culturally enriching and so utterly beautiful.

Though the San Blas Islands are gaining popularity, tourism in the region remains highly regulated to ensure that the Guna benefit financially from their interactions with tourists.

I found it refreshing to visit a place where the native people have such control over their own destinies.

OUR THREE DAYS IN SAN BLAS

The three blissful days we spent on the San Blas Islands were pure magic. From morning to night, we spent our time relaxing, snorkeling, swimming, and beach-bumming.

During our San Blas tour, we stayed on Hook Island. Covering an area about the same size of a football field,  the tiny palm-shaded patch of sand felt like paradise.

The island left us speechless with its crystalline waters, its swaying palms and its blanket of thin, snow-white sand.

During each of our days on the island, our Guna guide would take us to a different islet or remote cay.

On the first day, we visited Isla Perro, also known as Dog Island. The pristine patch of sand boasts an expansive beach, as well as a shipwreck off its coast. It is one of the most popular snorkeling destinations in the archipelago.

On our second day, we encountered heavy precipitation that lasted all afternoon. Since the islands lack any place to escape the elements, we explored the coral reef and swam in the shallow waters of the Piscina Natural

 We spent our last day on Pelican Island–one of the most pristine beaches I’ve ever set foot on.

Every afternoon and evening during our San Blas Islands tour, Dan and I would explore the reef, lounge in hammocks, and watch mesmerizing sunsets.

Sometimes we’d even see dolphins splashing in the distance.

At night, when the sun went down, we would gaze up at the canopy of brilliant stars and run our hands through the soft sands—watching the beach sparkle with phosphorescent plankton.

GETTING AROUND SAN BLAS

Panama’s Guna communities are spread out over 49 of the 360 islands in San Blas.

To get from place to place as a tourist, you must organize your transport with local guides. There are no public ferries or passenger boats.

Luckily, most tours of the area include visits to multiple islands.

TOURS OF THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS IN PANAMA

Dan and I joined a three day tour of the San Blas Islands with Panama Travel Unlimited. Our tour included lodging in a tent, three meals per day (fish and rice) and daily transport to the surrounding islands.

Before setting off on our excursion, we didn’t really know what to expect. I had read countless reviews of the islands online and much of what I read was surprisingly negative. People complained that the islands were too crowded and too covered in trash. They complained about the lack of wifi, the rustic cabins, and the lack of culinary variety.

But when Dan and I arrived in San Blas, we found that we could not relate to any of the complaints we had read online. The islands were so pristine and beautiful—so untouched—that it felt like we had drifted into the pages of Robinson Crusoe.

• DAY TOURS OF THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS

While I absolutely recommend spending at least two days in the San Blas Islands, I know that staying overnight isn’t always possible. Itinerary and budget constraints might force you to visit the islands as a day trip instead.

Luckily, there are a number of day tour options that include roundtrip transport from Panama City. This tour visits Isla Yansailadup, while this one brings you to four different islands over the course of a day.

• SAN BLAS MULTI DAY TOURS

Staying multiple days in the San Blas Islands is absolutely worthwhile. By staying overnight, you’ll be able to experience the rhythm of island life and get a sense for what its like to live on the remote archipelago.

A bit has changed since I visited the islands on a three day tour, and it appears that Panama Travel Unlimited no longer offers the itinerary that we booked.

However, there are similar multi-day trips bookable online through other tour operators. This 3day/2night tour includes meals, transport, and lodging. It seems quite comparable to the one that we enjoyed.

• SAILING TO COLOMBIA

If you’re traveling overland from Panama to Colombia, you’ll hit a massive roadblock: a large swathe of rainforest known as the Darien Gap. There are no roads that pierce the impenetrable jungle. Even the Pan America Highway just stops here, making it impossible to travel completely overland between the Americas.

Instead of traveling by bus or car, many adventurers choose to head onward to Colombia on a sailing tour, via the San Blas Islands. I wish that Dan and I had experienced the San Blas Islands this way.

The journey takes about five days and stops at numerous pearl-like islands en-route. Cost of the trip should set you back around $500 to $600USD.

WHERE TO STAY IN SAN BLAS

In general, accommodations options in San Blas Islands are basic and expensive (think $100-200+ per night).

During our three day trip, we stayed in small huts on Hook Island. The basic accommodation was part of our tour. I haven’t found a way to book the huts online (though there seem to be other better options on nearby islands).

Cabañas Narasgandup is one of the best lodging options in San Blas. Its overwater bungalows overlook the crystal-clear waters of Mamartupo and have very positive reviews. Just don’t expect a Tahiti-style overwater resort.

The Isla Diablo cabins are another popular option. From online photos and reviews, they seem to be quite a bit nicer than the cabins we stayed in.

GETTING TO THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS

There are two ways to get to the San Blas Islands from Panama City: a car + boat combination, or a flight to the tiny El Porvenir (PVE) Airport.

• 4X4 JEEP + WATER TAXI

The trip from Panama City takes about 4 hours in total. Most tours leave early in the morning and include a 2.5-hour 4×4 ride to the port, where you’ll then hop on a 30 to 45-minute boat to the islands. This is typically included in tours departing from Panama City.

• FLIGHTS ON AIR PANAMA

Flights depart every day from Marcos Gelabert Airport (PAC) in Panama City. Air Panama is the only airline that flies to the San Blas Islands, linking Panama’s Capital with EL Porvenir. Most of the flights are on small aircraft that seat 20 people.

SHOPPING IN SAN BLAS

Though San Blas doesn’t really have any souvenir shops, you’ll find many locals selling the traditional mola embroidery designs. Kuna molas are a form of fabric art that originated as clothing.

Today, you’ll find that most people sell molas as stand-alone square panels that can be made into wall art or pillow cases.

We found the molas in San Blas to be generally much nicer than those in Panama City and even bought a few for our house. They now adorn our entryway bench as pillow covers.

SNORKELING AND DIVING IN SAN BLAS

The Guna have banned scuba diving in San Blas in order to protect the area’s reef and fish population. You’ll have to stick to snorkeling if you want to experience the archipelago’s underwater world.

Snorkeling is one of the top things to do in San Blas. The reef is moderately healthy and Dan and I enjoyed watching the colorful fish dart amongst coral.

We found the snorkeling in San Blas to be better than in Bocas del Toro, but lacking compared to other destinations. The reef around the islands—at least where we visited—didn’t really hold a candle to places in the Pacific, like Palau, Micronesia, or Indonesia.

Still, we enjoyed exploring the reef around Hook Island and snorkeling above the Dog Island shipwreck.

I’ve heard that the reef around some of the territory’s outer islands tends to be more intact. You can reach some of these far-flung areas on a sailing trip through the islands.

BEST TIME TO VISIT THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS

The dry season, from January to April, is the best time to visit San Blas. The San Blas Islands have a pretty long rainy season, which runs from May to December.

The good news is that the wet season doesn’t mean it’s going to rain all day, every day. While you will probably experience at least a few pretty heavy downpours while you’re there, the rain might only last a couple hours.

Dry season is the ideal time to visit San Blas, but if you’re visiting from May to September, your trip is unlikely to be spoiled by bad weather. We visited in September and enjoyed beautiful weather on two of our three days in San Blas.

October and November are the wettest months and can experience heavy rainfall that lasts all day.

*****

If you’re seeking a luxurious Caribbean getaway, the rustic San Blas islands might provide a disappointing experience. Even as we stood gawking at the beauty of our surroundings, we overheard fellow travelers complain about the lack of hot showers, air conditioning and nightclubs.

I understand that the islands—beautiful as they may be—might not be everyone’s cup of tea.

But if you’re looking for a rustic and authentic experience in paradise, the San Blas Islands in Panama offer an experience that is absolutely unforgettable.

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DID YOU ENJOY THIS GUIDE TO THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS IN PANAMA? PIN IT!

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The Kuna are an ethnic group that inhabits the remote and idyllic San Blas Islands that lie between Panama and Colombia. Known for their colorful embroideries and fiercely independent way of life, the Kuna are a small yet proud community of around 300.000 people.

The majority of Panama’s Kuna population resides on the idyllic string of islands that speckles the Caribbean Sea. The islands–also known as the Guna Yala–are a group of over 360 picture-perfect white-sand islands the dot the Caribbean waters along Panama’s coastline.

THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS

The Comerca de San Blas, or Guna Yala, is a semi-autonomous region of Panama that is governed by the Kuna population.

Strung across the emerald sea and blessed with snow-white sand, most of these islands in Panama’s San Blas are so small that they consist of nothing but a few coconut trees and perhaps a fisherman’s shack or two.

The picturesque islands are so stunning that one would expect them to be overrun with tourists. Yet, most of the islands stand untouched, save for a lopsided reed shack inhabited by a Kuna family.

Though the San Blas Islands are gaining popularity as tourist destinations due to their exquisite beauty, tourism in the region remains highly regulated and ensures that the Kuna benefit financially from interactions with tourists.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF PANAMA’S KUNA PEOPLE

The Kuna are an indigenous group known for their colorful colorful dress and for their intricately embroidered textiles called molas. The Kuna have a long history of resistance toward western influences. Many regard them as one of the most fiercely independent ethnic groups in the world.

During the beginning of the twentieth century, Panama’s government attempted to suppress the unique and colorful Kuna culture. It tried to ban the Kuna from wearing their traditional dress and attempted to dissolve their religious practices. Yet, the indigenous group faced the government with bitter resistance and revolted in what became known as the Tule Revolution of 1925.

After the Kuna rebellion in 1925, the Panamanian government granted the ethnic group semi-autonomy of the San Blas Islands. This autonomy gave the Kuna the ability to create their own internal laws and policies under the jurisdiction of Panama’s government.

The relative inaccessibility of the islands is due in part to their isolation from mainland Panama and in part to the fact that the Kuna people have tightly controlled the influx of visitors.  The Kuna people have fought fiercely to protect their land from foreign investments and influence and, thus, all lodging and transportation must be organized from within the community.

As a result, there are no foreign-owned resort chains on the islands. Nor are there expat-run guesthouses or hostels. In fact, the only way to visit the San Blas Islands and stay overnight, is to participate in a homestay or to sleep in a tent or reed shack set up by a member of the Kuna tribe.

After a few relaxing days in Bocas del Toro, Dan and I ended our ten day Panama itinerary with a visit to the breathtaking San Blas Islands.

As tourists, it was comforting to know that the money we spent while on the islands was falling directly into the hands of the community.

In a world where “getting away from it all” often means trapping oneself in an all-inclusive resort and remaining as disconnected as possible from the local population, it was wonderful to go somewhere that was both so culturally enriching and so utterly beautiful.

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The Kuna People are indigenous success story and staying on an island with a local family can be a window into the daily life of this fascinating culture.

While indigenous voices have often been suppressed or squandered for political and economic gains, I found it refreshing to visit a place where the native people have such control over their own destinies.

The post The Kuna People in Panama’s San Blas appeared first on Erika's Travels .

“Oh wow! Have fun in Florida” everyone would say after I told them I had plans to go to Panama for ten days. “I hear the beach is really nice there.”

And when I told them no, that I’d be going to the country called Panama rather than the Floridian beach resort, they would often nod their heads in understanding. “Oh yes” they would say. “The Panama Canal.”

The Panama Canal. It’s one of the top things to do in Panama, and the country’s claim to fame. It is the only thing that most people can tell you about the thin, squiggly country that connects North and South America.

Spending One Day in Panama City

Panama City is a modern metropolis. If I didn’t know any better, I might think the cityscape was that of Miami Beach. Tall high-rises jut out of the surrounding jungle and highways bisect the maze of high-rises stretching along the waters edge.

Yet, the skyscrapers and shopping malls present just one side of Panama City. Across the bay, literally facing the towering glass and steel buildings, sit the crumbling facades of the city’s old colonial center.

Panama’s capital is a city of contrasts. With one day in Panama City, I started in the world heritage-listed old town, and ended it at the Panama Canal.

Casco Viejo

Casco Viejo is one of the top things to see in Panama City. The historical district reminded me in many ways of Santo Domingo’s Zona Colonial. The crumbling cathedrals and intricately carved buildings constitute a Unesco World Heritage Site. They are both pleasing to the eye and a reminder of the European influences on much of the architecture of Latin America.

Dan and I wandered the picturesque streets, peeked at the market stalls, feasted on fresh seafood and witnessed a procession of devout catholics observing a holiday for the Virgin Mary.

The juxtaposition between the city’s old town and the gleaming new town are representative of the forces at play in the country–a country that is at once rich and poor, old and new, developing and developed.

By going to certain places within Panama City, one might come to the conclusion that the city’s wealth is on par with the generally more affluent cities in North America. As a tourist, one is unlikely to visit the poorer areas–like the slum we passed on our way to the old city. So for us, it is moments like our bus ride–while stranded on the side of the road and waiting for a replacement bus to come pick us up in the middle of the night–that I am reminded of the progress Panama has yet to make in terms of development.

Mercado de Mariscos

Panama City’s seafood market, the Mercado de Mariscos, lies at the foot of the historic Casco Viejo district. The market is a casual place to stop for lunch and try some Panamanian seafood dishes. The restaurants in the market aren’t fancy joints. They’re essentially counters with plastic outdoor seating. Latin tunes blare over the speakers, and and a fishy aroma permeates the air.

The Mercado de Mariscos is the perfect place to load up on lunch before continuing on to the Panama Canal.

The Panama Canal

The Panama Canal is one of the world’s greatest feats of engineering and a key conduit for  maritime trade. Construction of the canal, which opened in 1914, initially began in the 1800s by French workers who sought to join the world’s two greatest oceans. Yet, soon, engineering hurdles and outbreaks of malaria caused the French to halt their construction and abandon the project.

In 1904, the United States decided to finish the construction of the canal. Despite continued threats brought on by outbreaks of malaria and yellow fever, thousands of workers put their lives at risk in order to finish the job.

When the US, led by president Jimmy Carter, decided to give the canal back to Panama in 1977, Panama entered into a new era of prosperity and the influx of money into Panama as a result of the canal cannot be underestimated. It generates billions of dollars that are, in turn, poured into the country to finance infrastructure. Today, in large part due to the canal, Panamanians enjoy a higher standard of living than most other Central Americans.

And the economic benefits of the canal are likely to become even more significant in upcoming years. Currently, the canal is undergoing a $5.3 billion expansion that will have a dramatic influence on the canal’s daily capacity while, in turn, generating even more dollars.

From the observation deck, I looked out in the opposite direction of the canal and saw high-rises towering above the surrounding jungle. These buildings were likely financed in part by the very engineering feat that lay before me. Thinking about the tranquil rainforest I had just visited earlier in the day, I could not help but wonder how different Panama would be, had it not been for the construction of the canal.

The waterfront high rises were so different from what I imagined Panama City to look like. These skyscrapers rising from dense jungles along the water’s edge seemed to be an anomaly in Central America. Something, instead, akin to Miami Beach.
I laughed, thinking about those who had wished me a happy vacation in Florida.

Perhaps Panama City, Panama and its namesake in Florida are not so different after all.

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Bocas del Toro is a popular backpackers haunt well known for its laid-back vibe, its turquoise waters, its mangrove-covered coves, and its pretty white-sand beaches. The archipelago consists of forested islands, scores of uninhabited islets and the Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos—Panama’s oldest marine park. With its plentiful attractions and diverse wildlife, Panama’s tourism hub attracts divers and sun-seekers from around the world.

The town of Bocas del Toro oozes chill. Known lovingly as Bocas, the jumble of Caribbean-style clapboard houses is the perfect launching-off point for excursions into the surrounding archipelago.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN BOCAS DEL TORO

Bocas del Toro is one of Panama’s premier tourist attractions and undoubtedly the country’s backpacking mecca.

As Panama’s largest tourist draw, Bocas offers everything travelers might want in terms of accommodation, food, entertainment and sightseeing. Little shops line the streets of Bocas Town, touting tourists excursions ranging from snorkeling to dolphin viewing to visiting chocolate plantations.

During our three days in Bocas del Toro, Dan and I made the most of our itinerary. We snorkeled, we swam, we lounged on the beach, and we kept our eyes peeled for sloths.

• STARFISH BEACH

Dan and I arrived in Bocas del Toro following a long overnight bus ride from Panama City. By the time we arrived in town, most boat excursions had already left the docks. So, instead of joining an organized tour to the surrounding islands, we decided to take a local bus to Starfish Beach.

Starfish Beach is known for its long strip of sand and the bright orange starfish that dot its turquoise waters.

Our visit coincided with a yearly boat-racing festival that brought hundreds of Panamanians to the islands. Due to the influx of weekend party-goers in Bocas, it took Dan and I a while to find a patch of beach away from the hoards of people. The beach was crowded with young couples lounging in the sand. Music blared from boom boxes on the shore and families splashed around in the waters.

Starfish Beach didn’t exactly have the relaxed beach vibe that we were craving (and would later find in Cayo Zapatillo and the San Blas Islands), but it constituted a worthwhile day trip nonetheless.

• DOLPHIN BAY

Our second day in Bocas del Toro was the highlight of our venture into Panama’s northern reaches. We tagged onto a boat trip that offered the possibility of snorkeling, dolphin spotting, beach-lounging and sloth-viewing.

Our boat trip began at Dolphin Bay, where we saw numerous pods of bottle-nose dolphins darting around. The bay has a semi-permanent population of dolphins that are drawn to its waters due to an abundance of small fish and squid.

We watched the playful dolphins for about twenty minutes, before continuing on to Crawl Cay for lunch and a swim among colorful fish and coral.

• CRAWL CAY

Admittedly, the snorkeling at Crawl Cay lacks the pristine reef found in other parts of the world. And those who have explored the underwater coral gardens of places like Palau and Indonesia, will likely be sorely disappointed in the underwater world surrounding Crawl Cay.

Much of the coral around Crawl Cay is dying, perhaps largely due to an influx of tourists keen on breaking pieces off as souvenirs.

• THE CAYOS ZAPATILLAS

After eating lunch, snorkeling and sleeping for a bit on the hammocks at Crawl Cay, we got back in the boat for and headed to Cayo Zapatilla—the most memorable destination in our excursion.

The Cayos Zapatillas are twin islands that are often referred to as the pearls of Bocas Bay. And visiting the pristine islands is, without a doubt, the top thing to do in Bocas del Toro.

During our day tour of the Bocas del Toro archipelago, we went to the greater of the two islands for a few hours of beach time and relished the tranquility of our picture-perfect surroundings.

Gone were the hoards of tourists with their boom boxes and beers. Gone were the boats dropping people off and picking them up. It was just us and the sand and the sea and the beautiful blue sky.

Cayo Zapatilla is where Panama’s Survivor series was filmed. To us, the island felt wild and untouched, yet its waters were welcoming and warm. Visiting Cayo Zapatilla was the first time—among many in Panama—that Dan and I would feel as though we were stranded in paradise.

• RED FROG BEACH

Before leaving on an overnight bus back to Panama City, Dan and I managed to squeeze in a swim at Red Frog Beach.

From Bocas town, water taxis (US$7) head to a public dock on the south side of the Islas Bastimentos Marine Park. From the small dock, the windswept shores of Red Frog Beach are a short ten-minute walk.

Red Frog Beach is named after the tiny poison dart frogs that inhabit the jungles of the island’s interior. Yet, as hard as we looked, Dan and I had failed to spot any of the little red frogs.

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It was a bit reluctantly that Dan and I packed our bags, left our lovely hostel in Bocas Town and headed South for part two of our Panamanian vacation.

But it was best that we left when we did, because we left Bocas in the nick of time—just as the clouds started to thicken and cast the skies in an ominous shield of grey. And as the boat taking us back to the mainland pulled away from the dock, the rain started to drizzle. Then it began to pour.

We counted ourselves lucky for the three beautiful days of sunshine we experienced, crossing our fingers that the rain was just a fluke and that the luck we had experienced in Bocas would continue throughout the rest of our stay.

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