Harbour Island measures three miles in length and about half a mile in width. A mere dot on the map, it lies just off the coast of untamed Eleuthera, in the remote Out Islands of the Bahamas.

Despite its relative isolation and easygoing vibe, the wee Caribbean gem packs a lot of glitz and glamour into its five-square-mile footprint. The sliver of land—fondly known as “Briland” by locals—has ended up in the luxury travel spotlight.

With its impossibly clear waters and delicate pink sand, Harbour Island is a tiny coral speck in a scintillating blue sea.

HARBOUR ISLAND: OLDEST SETTLEMENT IN THE BAHAMAS

Harbour Island boasts quaint colorful streets, tasty conch restaurants, and one of the world’s most renowned beaches. The coral-rimmed island lies within the embrace of Eleuthera—a long narrow strip of land worthy of off-the-beaten-path exploration.

European history in Eleuthera and its sister islands dates back to 1650, when a group of loyalists were fleeing persecution in Britain. They shipwrecked off a reef named Devil’s Backbone and landed on the area’s main island. They called the island Eleutheria, the Greek word for freedom.

Eventually, though the vast majority of refugees settled in Spanish Wells, some ended up in Harbour Island.

These settlers established an independent government and settlement on the island that lasted for nearly 70 years— from the time the Puritans landed in 1650 to when Harbour Island surrendered its rights to the British Crown in 1717.

Eleuthera, Harbour Island and nearby Spanish Wells are each unique in their own way.

And yet, while they are wildly different with regards to tourist amenities, they are inextricably bounded to one another by history and proximity.

DUNMORE TOWN

Dunmore Town, the only community on the island, is a charming church-filled village that exudes New-England-style charm. Named after the island’s governor between 1786-1797, is one of the oldest settlements in the Bahamas.

Dunmore Town is home to pretty colonial-style clapboard houses adorned with lush plants and bougainvillea. The colorful architecture blends beautifully with the island’s surrounding nature and laid-back aesthetic.

In the late 1800s, Dunmore was known for its ship building and sugar refinement. It was not until the 1950s that the picturesque community gained renown as a vacation destination among exclusive crowds.

Today, it draws some of the wealthiest vacationers from around the world.

And yet, while it may be a favorite getaway destination for the rich and famous, the laid-back village is both idyllic and unpretentious. Its colorful buildings hide behind lush vegetation and remain somewhat understated, despite the island’s exorbitant prices.

THE FAMOUS PINK SAND BEACH

While Dunmore Town’s streets have plenty of photo-worthy nooks and crannies, the colorful urban center is not the main reason that Harbour Island has garnered such high praise. The island’s widespread appeal is entirely due to its most striking natural feature—the shimmering pink sand beach.

The beach stretches the entire length of the island and is the focal point around which everything on the blip of land revolves.

The Pink Beach’s rosy glow is a result of finely pulverized coral. It has been called the world’s most beautiful beach by a slew of international publications.

And Dan and I could certainly see why. It joins the ranks of Shoal Bay in Anguilla and Trunk Bay in St John.

WHERE TO STAY ON HARBOUR ISLAND

Our Harbour Island lodging experience was a bit out of the ordinary. As budget-conscious travelers, Dan and I booked the cheapest room we could find at the Tingum Village Hotel.

However, when the staff had double booked our room, a bout of anniversary luck landed us an upgrade. Somehow, we were able to celebrate Dan’s birthday and our one year of marriage at the luxurious Secret Kiss Villa.

Of course, renting out an oversized five bedroom villa is probably not an option for many.

But fortunately, the small island has plenty of places to stay, as long as you’re willing to shell out some cash.

Harbour Island attracts high end luxury travelers. Its hotels range from expensive to extravagant. Some of the most popular island accommodations include the Coral Sands Hotel, the Dunmore Hotel, and Valentine’s Resort.

WHERE TO EAT ON HARBOUR ISLAND

Dan and I ate at some wonderful places during our stay on Harbour Island. We enjoyed delicious smoothies at the Sweet Spot Cafe, filled up on bread at Arthur’s Bakery, and ate a delectable seafood dinner at Queen Conch.

If you’re traveling on a shoestring, Ma Ruby’s cooks up some of the island’s most budget-conscious fare. Dan and I didn’t get to taste the restaurant’s highly-touted burgers,  but we very much enjoyed our order of conch fritters.

Additionally, we heard great things about the food at Sip Sip Restaurant. Unfortunately, however, the restaurant was temporarily closed during our visit.

HARBOUR ISLAND TRANSPORTATION

Harbour Island’s special character can be attributed thanks, in large part, to the fact that the island does not house commercial airports or cruise docks. It embodies a form of isolation that inhabitants and tourists enjoy.

GETTING TO HARBOUR ISLAND:

The easiest way to reach Harbour Island is via neighboring Eleuthera. Routes connect Nassau and the southern United States with the North Eleuthera Airport. From the airport, $5 taxis run the mile-long length of road to the ferry dock. Water shuttles to the Harbour Island marina cost an additional $5 per person.

GETTING AROUND:

Like Spanish Wells, Harbour Island is so tiny that renting a car serves no purpose. In fact, I believe the island outright prohibits tourists from driving rental vehicles.

Most travelers opt for golf cart rentals instead. Golf carts are ubiquitous on Harbour Island and cost roughly $50 per day.

Dan and I opted out of renting a golf cart, despite the 20 minute walk from our accommodation to the ferry dock. We simply viewed it as an unnecessary expense on an island where costs add up quickly.

Though getting around by golf cart is most convenient, we were happy with our money-saving strategy. Distances on the island are short. And reaching the Pink Sand Beach from the ferry dock only requires a ten minute journey on foot.

*****

Harbour Island’s blush-colored beach certainly draws a lot of fanfare and praise from media outlets the world over.

As a result, our expectations before visiting were quite high.

They were so high, in fact, that we weren’t sure if the island could possibly live up to the hype.

But we’re pleased to say that it did not disappoint.

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Eleuthera Island fans out over the Caribbean’s waters like a loose ribbon on a blue and turquoise quilt. A long skinny island in the Bahamas, it measures over 100 miles in length, while never reaching more than a few miles in width.

The scenic island is one of over 700 land masses that make up the Bahamas Archipelago. Its serpentine shape conceals coves and windswept beaches that are some of the most beautiful in all of the Caribbean.

Eleuthera Island Attractions

Though Eleuthera’s beaches are marvelous, the island contains a variety of tourist attractions that are perfect for thrill-seekers. From caves to sinkholes to natural soaking pools, Eleuthera’s must-see destinations make it one of the most scenic islands in North America.

Perhaps more than any other island I’ve yet experienced in the Caribbean, Eleuthera welcomes the adventurous spirit. It is rugged and remote and a far cry from the region’s typical manicured tourist hot spots. Reaching some of Eleuthera’s top attractions requires patience, a 4×4 vehicle, and a sense of adventure.

Best Eleuthera Beaches

Eleuthera has no shortage of beaches. And with over 165 sandy shores, finding a favorite is not always easy.

The skinny island lies at the convergence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Bight of Eleuthera. On the west side of the island, the shoreline showcases a calm and shallow sea. Along Eleuthera’s eastern edge, coral pink sands meet cobalt waters and pounding surf.

Over the course of a week, Dan and I discovered many of Eleuthera’s top beaches

While our limited stay did not grant us the opportunity to set foot on each of the island’s idyllic waterside stretches, it allowed us plenty of time to explore the skinny ribbon of land from top to bottom.

French Leave Beach

Eleuthera’s French Leave Beach owes its name to the old Club Med Resort that once stood on its shores. Its unspoiled pink sand extends out over a mile and is flanked by dense green shrubbery.

The beach is among the most popular with visitors because of its convenient location near Governor’s Harbour. It is home to Tippy’s—a waterside restaurant and bar that dishes up fantastic conch fritters and piña coladas.

Despite being one of the top places to see on Eleuthera, solitude-seekers will rejoice in the beach’s lonely stretches of windswept sand.

Surfer’s Beach

Surfer’s Beach lies at the end of a narrow potholed road, on the island’s Atlantic side. It is located between the townships of Hatchet Bay and Gregory Town, in north-central Eleuthera. Thanks to gusty Southwest winds that blow breaks in from the Atlantic, it is one of the most renowned surfing areas in The Bahamas.

Dan and I didn’t get the opportunity to watch surfers during our visit to the wave-pounded beach. Yet I hear that the high season—between October and April—boasts some of the Caribbean’s best breaks.

Gaulding Beach and Cay

Gaulding Beach is a popular swimming spot located near Gregory Town, across the road from Daddy Joe’s Restaurant.

At low tide, the water is so shallow that one can practically walk to Gaulding Cay—a small islet with a hat of trees.

Though many pointed us toward Gaulding Cay for sea life, Dan and I didn’t have much success with snorkeling in the area.

Ten Bay Beach

Ten Bay Beach showcases tranquil waters and soft golden sands. It is among the calmest swimming beaches on the island due to its location along the Bight of Eleuthera.

Large casuarina and palm trees line the shores of the beach—providing shade from the hot sun. The abundant shade and perfectly-spaced trees make it a wonderful place to relax on a hammock for the day.

Ten Bay Beach’s calm protected water is warm and gentle. During low tide, I was able to walk out quite far before the water reached my knees.

Winding Bay

Winding Bay is a wonderful four-kilometer beach offering secluded views and pristine sand. Its shoreline consists of two semicircular beaches that are largely flanked by natural vegetation. A line of trees separates the beach from the road.

Due to algae and sharp rocks, Winding Bay is poorly suitable for snorkeling.

But nevertheless, Dan and I saw a shark and stingray swimming through the area’s shallow water.

Lighthouse Beach

Visiting Lighthouse Beach is, without a doubt, the top thing to do on Eleuthera. This hidden gem teeters at the southernmost point of the island, where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean. Its luxurious pink sands rival the world-renowned expanse on nearby Harbour Island.

Lighthouse Beach lies nestled in the bosom of a massive rock structure, behind a thicket of forest and dunes.

Reaching Lighthouse Beach requires a 4×4 vehicle and the ability to negotiate massive potholes. It is not for those who desire amenities and easy access.

Unfortunately, the best beach in Eleuthera is not slated to remain unspoiled for long. Disney Cruises bought up the large tract of land and is in the process of surveying the area for development.

Soon, Lighthouse Beach will be a cruise ship port that rests at odds with the island’s rugged and untamed nature. It will no longer be a quiet stretch of paradise for lovers of wild and off-the-beaten-path locales.

I’m grateful that I visited Lighthouse Beach when I did. For now at least, the beach is proof that, sometimes, the roughest journeys reap the best rewards.

Other Things to Do on Eleuthera

It’s true. Eleuthera’s beaches are magic.

But there are other things to do on Eleuthera that don’t involve sand and sea.

The ribbon-like island is covered in a dense carpet of forest that conceals jewel-like sinkholes and maze-like caves. During our visit to Eleuthera, Dan and I relished many of the area’s unique geological offerings.

Explore Preacher’s Cave

Preacher’s Cave is both a historical and geological landmark. Its recorded human history dates back to the 1600s, when a group of English Puritans—known as the Eleutheran Adventurers—sailed from Bermuda in search of religious freedom. After shipwrecking on a reef called Devil’s Backbone, they found refuge in Preacher’s Cave.

As well as being a safe haven, the cavern transformed into a house of worship. The adventurers conducted the island’s first religious service from an alter-shaped rock at the far end of the cave (hence, the landmark’s name).

Today, many descendants of the Eleutheran Adventurers reside in Spanish Wells.

A delightful sandy beach lies across the parking area from Preacher’s Cave. The beach hides behind a thicket of greenery that contains some picnic tables and benches.

Jump into the Blue Hole

Eleuthera’s sapphire-colored sinkhole is located on the Northern part of the island, within walking distance of Preacher’s Cave. It lies nestled amongst a tapestry of verdant trees, like a sapphire jewel in an emerald ocean.

The Blue Hole is the most renowned of Eleuthera’s many sinkholes. It is a popular spot for swimming, photography, and cliff jumping.

A platform along the edge of the sinkhole entices adventure-seekers to dive into the salty inland lake.

Admire the Glass Window

The Glass window is Eleuthera’s most defining feature. A narrow strip of land and road that connects Gregory Town and Lower Bogue, the window measures just 30 feet wide at its narrowest point.

While one can witness the area’s amazing colors from behind the wheel of a moving car, it is worth pulling to the roadside to admire the view. The eastern side of the narrow highway showcases the indigo waters of the Atlantic Ocean, while the western side reveals the Bight of Eleuthera’s calm turquoise waters.

To make the most of the area’s beauty, Dan and I hiked around the sharp rocks and peered over the sheer cliffs.

The varied ocean shades were mesmerizing.

Soak in the Queen’s Baths

The Queen’s Baths are a collection of natural pools that border the rugged Atlantic side of Eleuthera. They lie just south of the Glass Window Bridge, amidst a rugged area of sharp rock outcroppings.

Over the years, the Queen’s Baths tidal pools formed thanks to continual erosion of rocks from the crashing Atlantic waves. Ocean waves pour over the lip of the pools during high tide and fill the tubs with water. Once settled, the sun warms the crystal clear water, creating a bath-like temperature that is perfect for soaking.

Beware of stepping on the urchins and sea snails that blanket the walls and floor of the hot tubs.

While the Queen’s Baths are a major Eleuthera highlight, the area can only be visited safely during low tide. At high tide, the pools often fill up quickly and forcefully.

Explore Cathedral Cave

Cathedral Cave—also commonly known as Spider Rock Cave because of the thick webs that cling to its walls— is an underground cavern near Rock Sound. The unassuming cavern is straight out of Indiana Jones. Tree roots force their way through cracks in the cave ceiling and giant palm-sized spiders create webs that drip from the rock walls like melted ice cream.

Though Cathedral Cave is a known landmark on Google Maps, it can be difficult to find. The best access point is via a small path across from the white Anglican Church on Sherman’s Highway. The trail to the cave passes by Boiling Hole—an attraction with similar geology to the Sapphire Blue Hole and Ocean Hole.

Where to Stay on Eleuthera Island

Though we split our time between Gregory Town and Rock Sound, most hotels and resorts in Eleuthera cluster near Governor’s Harbour.  The island’s accommodation options range from basic beachside cottages to opulent resorts.

Admittedly, we didn’t stay in an established hotel while on Eleuthera. But from my research, I gathered that the island’s most highly-rated places include La Bougainvillea, Mika’s Resort, and the spendy yet luxurious French Leave Resort.

Dan and I chose to rent Airbnbs for the duration of our Eleuthera vacation. Airbnb provides a wide range of lodging options on the island.

Best Places to Eat in Eleuthera

There is little respite from high prices on Eleuthera. And food is no exception. It was difficult for Dan and I to adjust to the inflated costs of everything from groceries to sit-down meals.

While on the island, we hoped to save some money by stocking up on ingredients at a grocery store. But we found the prices to be so exorbitant that we left empty-handed.

In order to cut back on costs, we enjoyed fruit and fresh baked bread from the Eleuthera Farm and tasty lunch wraps at Louis Delights (a popular local joint). Our favorite place to eat on Eleuthera was the reasonably priced and delicious Snack Shack in Gregory Town.

After 4pm, Eleuthera’s cheaper options all but disappeared and we had no option but to splurge. Our favorite places to eat dinner included Daddy Joe’s in Gregory Town and Wild Orchid’s Restaurant in Rock Sound.

****

Eleuthera is an off-the-beaten-path destination with no shortage of notable places to see. Its plethora of sandy beaches and hidden treasures are among the region’s most enticing.

Yet somehow, despite boasting some of the best beaches in the Bahamas, the skinny island remains wild and untamed. It is a perfect reminder that the Caribbean is about more than all-inclusive resorts and overdeveloped beachfronts.

At least for now.

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Soft powdery sands. Pristine pool-like waters. Idyllic shores that consistently rank among the best in the world.  

Welcome to the Bahamas: an unparalleled destination for beach-lovers.

The jewel-like Bahamas caters to honeymooners, cruise-ship tourists, and sailing-enthusiasts. The country consists of over 700 islands—many of them uninhabited—that lie scattered about the Caribbean Sea. 

Each of these islands has its own flavor, its own history, and its own reasons for visiting. 

And yet few have as interesting a history as St George’s Cay—a fleck of sand off Eleuthera that is home to Spanish Wells. 

SPANISH WELLS ON ST GEORGE’S CAY

While development has transformed much of the Caribbean into a Disneyland of sorts, Spanish Wells seems to have changed little since the early days of European settlement.

The offbeat community lies off the coast of Eleuthera, in the remote Out Islands of the Bahamas. Visiting is like stepping back in time, to another world.

Spanish Wells has a settler history that dates back to the 1600s, when a group of English Puritans—known as the Eleutheran Adventurers—sailed from Bermuda in search of religious freedom. After shipwrecking on a reef called Devil’s Backbone, they found refuge in a cave on nearby Eleuthera.

Eventually, the majority of the Loyalists settled in Spanish Wells and established a community that has survived for nearly 400 years. To this day, their close-knit band of descendants remains incredibly religious and insular. 

As a result, Spanish Wells does not fit the typical demographic makeup of the Bahamas. The island is home to a population of about 1,500 mostly white settlers of European descent. Almost everyone shares a handful of last names and can trace their ancestry to the Eleutheran Adventurers. 

Though tourism is a major industry in the Bahamas, Spanish Wells isn’t an overwhelmingly touristy place. The abundance of lucrative spiny lobsters has enabled locals to eschew fast-paced development in favor of maintaining the centuries-old way of life. 

Thanks to the bounty of the sea, Spanish Wells does not have to depend on tourist dollars. Many of the island’s current residents have reaped enormous financial rewards from the lobster-fishing industry. 

This concentrated wealth has led some to refer to St George’s Cay as the ‘Nantucket of the Caribbean.’ 

GETTING TO ST GEORGE’S CAY

Spanish Wells’  remote location makes it relatively difficult to reach. Saint George’s Cay does not contain an airport, a cruise ship dock, or infrastructure suitable for mass tourism.

From the North Eleuthera airport, reaching Spanish Wells consists of a 20 minute taxi ride to Genes Bay, followed by a 5 minute water taxi crossing to the community’s main dock. Transportation arrangements with Pinders Taxi Service cost $15 per person. 

GETTING AROUND SPANISH WELLS

Spanish Wells is tiny and easy to navigate. While some may choose to walk its grid-like streets, most travelers opt for a golf cart rental. Golf carts are ubiquitous in Spanish Wells and are a favorite way of getting around. The Harbourside Rental and Gift Shop near the water taxi dock rents out buggies for $40 per day. 

Our guesthouse near the ferry dock provided complementary golf carts during our stay in Spanish Wells. Having access to a golf cart allowed us to freely explore St George’s Cay and nearby Russel Island. 

Had Dan and I visited Spanish Wells as a day trip, however, we would have likely chosen our own two feet as a mode of transportation.

Distances in Spanish Wells are short. And reaching North Beach from the ferry dock only requires a few minutes’ walk. 

NORTH BEACH, SPANISH WELLS

Tourism in Spanish Wells centers almost entirely on North Beach—a dreamy stretch of sand that belongs on the front page of travel brochures. The beach is among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Its pristine white expanse is comparable to some of the Caribbean’s best beaches, including Shoal Bay in Anguilla and Playa Rincon in the Dominican Republic.

North Shore Beach runs the entire length of St George’s Cay and is easily accessible from all parts of the island. For being so pristine, Dan and I were amazed by the lack of crowds.

The North Shore beachfront does not contain high-rise hotels or restaurants or tacky souvenir stalls.  Though a smattering of homes and vacation rentals line its shore, the structures are mostly concealed behind a thicket of greenery. 

The water level at North Shore beach is exceptionally shallow. At low tide, Dan and I were able to walk out about a quarter mile without the water rising above our waists. 

During our visit, we enjoyed wading about the swimming-pool-colored waters and walking out to the area’s isolated sand bars. 

A ribbon of pure white sand juts out beyond North Beach’s shallow expanse of turquoise water. Walking out onto the sand bar at low tide is an absolutely magical experience. 

DAY TOURS FROM SPANISH WELLS

Spanish Wells is a hub for charter excursions around Eleuthera. If you’re able to shell out large sums of cash, there are a number of fishing and touring charters to choose from. These private tours frequently visit sand bars, reefs, and Pig Island (a locale famous for swimming pigs similar to those in the Exumas). 

Admittedly, we didn’t take advantage of day trips because we had a hard time justifying the high costs of chartering a boat. 

Had we found others with whom to split the costs, however, we would have been thrilled to explore Spanish Wells’ surroundings.

SPANISH WELLS HOTELS AND VACATION RENTALS

The tourism industry in Spanish Wells is not nearly as robust as that of nearby Harbour Island. Hotels are largely nonexistent, though guesthouses and Airbnbs have mushroomed in recent years. 

Dan and I booked a room at the Harbour Breeze Guesthouse through Airbnb. The guesthouse was reasonably priced and conveniently located near the ferry dock. It also provided free golf cart rentals. 

Online hotel booking sites have limited availability in Spanish Wells. If you’re planning on staying overnight on the island, I’d recommend looking into AirBnb and VRBO. 

WHERE TO EAT IN SPANISH WELLS

Spanish Wells boasts a handful of tasty (albeit overpriced) restaurants. The Shipyard—at the eastern tip of the island—is consistently regarded as the best place to eat on St George’s Cay. We enjoyed a fantastic meal at the Shipyard during our last night on the island. 

For a slightly cheaper option, Buddha’s Snack Shack provides a solid alternative. 

If you’re traveling to Spanish Wells on a weekend, be sure to double check restaurant hours. Most establishments shut down on Sundays. 

****

After a year of pent-up wanderlust due to the Coronavirus lockdowns, Dan and I traveled to the remote island of Spanish Wells in the Bahamas.

The island isn’t exactly everyone’s ideal vacation spot. There is little in the way of entertainment. There are no nightclubs or waterparks or large shopping centers. Until 2013, Spanish Wells even banned the sale of alcohol. 

But Dan and I wanted to avoid the overly-developed and commercialized islands that have become commonplace in the Caribbean. We wanted to visit a relaxing place that still felt a little stuck in time. 

So for us, Spanish Wells was perfect. 

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