Tierra del Fuego is a windswept archipelago in Argentine Patagonia, located at the southernmost tip of the Americas.

Here, nature is bold, untamed, and irresistibly alluring. For many, it marks the end of the road…literally. The Pan-American Highway begins at Alaska’s northernmost point and concludes within the borders of Tierra del Fuego National Park.

For others, like myself, it represents a beginning. It is a launching pad for some of the world’s most intrepid adventures. A gateway to the world’s last untouched paradise.

Beyond Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel lies the infamous Drake Passage.

And beyond that—the White Continent.

Tierra del Fuego National Park, Patagonia

Tierra del Fuego National Park, located at the southernmost tip of Argentina near Ushuaia, is a breathtaking expanse of rugged mountains, dense forests, and pristine waterways. Covering roughly 630 square kilometers, it is the only Argentine national park that combines marine, forest, and mountain ecosystems. It boasts a diverse range of flora and fauna and a unique blend of sub-Antarctic wilderness, glacial lakes, and dramatic landscapes.

The name Tierra del Fuego translates to “Land of Fire” in Spanish. Portuguese explorer, Ferdinand Magellan, coined the name in 1520. As he navigated the waters around the southern tip of South America, he observed fires burning around the peninsula. These fires, ignited by the area’s indigenous inhabitants, were used for warmth and signaling during the region’s harsh winters.

Tierra del Fuego National Park Attractions

Tierra del Fuego National Park offers a variety of outdoor activities for nature lovers and adventure seekers. While it isn’t as famous as Patagonia’s Torres del Paine (home to the famous W Trek) or Los Glaciares (home to Mt Fitz Roy and the Perito Moreno Glacier), it still has a plethora of things to see and do.

Visitors can hike scenic coastal trails, canoe along the Lapataia and Roca lakes, and send off postcards from the “End of the World.”

End of the World Post Office

The southernmost post office in the world (excluding Antarctica) sits on the edge of Ensenada Bay in Tierra del Fuego.

To go along with all the other “end of the world” experiences in and around Ushuaia, the small post office allows you to send mail to your loved ones with a special “Fin del Mundo” postmark.

When we traveled to Patagonia en-route to South Georgia, we sent a postcard to my parents, who were babysitting Elio. It arrived a month or so later.

The post office also stamps passports with a full page “fin del mundo” stamp. The stamp features penguins and a photo of the park’s postmaster.

Coastal Trail

Tierra del Fuego’s coastal trail follows the Beagle Channel for eight kilometers, connecting Ensenada bay and Lapataia Bay. According to our tour guide, hiking the coastal trail is the best thing to do in Tierra del Fuego National Park.

The trail traverses lush lenga and guindo forests, boasting several panoramic viewpoints along the way.

The trail takes three to four hours to complete. Since we only had half a day in the park, I only had time to walk the first 15 minutes of the trail before turning back.

But from what I saw, I could certainly understand why our guide wholeheartedly recommended the walk.

The Beagle Channel’s cobalt waters and surrounding snowcapped mountains are stunning.

Alakush Visitor Center

The main hub for visitors exploring Tierra del Fuego National Park, Alakush Visitor Center offers introductory exhibits on the area’s flora, fauna, geology, and history.

Located near Río Lapataia and surrounded by mountain peaks, the center also has a restaurant and café—popular spots for refueling before or after a hike.

Río Lapataia

Río Lapataia flows through the heart of Tierra del Fuego National Park, connecting Roca Lake and Lapataia Bay.

Framed by towering mountain ranges, the river is a crucial part of the park’s rich ecosystem. It is home to otters, beavers (an invasive species in the area) and an array of waterfowl. Along its banks, hikers can find scenic viewpoints and footbridges.

The river also holds cultural significance, as the indigenous Yámana people once navigated its waters in canoes.

Lago Roca

After a brief stop at the visitor center, we continued on to Lago Roca.

The glacial lake straddles the border of Chile and Argentina. The Guanaco and Pirámides mountain ranges surround its icy waters.

Depending on whom you ask, you may hear it referred to as Lago Acigami (its Yagán name) or Lago Errázuriz (its Chilean name).

Lapataia Bay

Lapataia Bay, one of Tierra del Fuego National Park’s top attractions, is a breathtaking coastal inlet where the Andes meet the sea.

Scenic trails and wooden walkways meander through the area’s grasses and forests showcase the area’s pristine and untouched beauty. Rugged mountains surround the wildlife-rich bay.

Lapataia Bay marks the end of Route 3—the final stretch of the Pan-American Highway, which spans 30,000 miles and 14 countries from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, to Tierra del Fuego National Park.

Near the parking area, you’ll find an oft-photographed sign marking the end of National Route 3.

Wildlife in Tierra del Fuego National Park

Native species in Tierra del Fuego include the guanaco, Andean fox, and Magellanic woodpecker. The park is also home to about 90 bird species, including black necked swans, kelp gulls, Austral thrush, Upland geese, and Andean condors.

In 1946, in an attempt to bring the fur trade to the southern tip of South America, a Canadian brought 20 beavers to the area. Over time, the population of beavers ballooned to around 200,000 due to a lack of natural predators. These North American beavers have drastically altered local ecosystems by felling trees and creating dams that flood native forests.

Massive eradication programs have attempted to quell their population, though the issue persists today.

Ushuaia Argentina: Capital of the Region

Ushuaia, the southernmost city in Argentina, lies over 3,000km from Buenos Aires on a remote, windswept island across the Strait of Magellan from mainland South America. (Though often called the “End of the World,” the actual southernmost city is Puerto Williams on Navarino Island, Chile.)

Throughout the 20th century, Ushuaia evolved from a remote outpost to an adventure tourism hub.

Ushuaia became an official settlement in 1884, when the Argentine government established a penal colony in Ushuaia. The town’s prison housed dangerous criminals who were forced to work on infrastructure projects.

In the 1970s and 1980s, the Argentine government encouraged migration to the region by offering tax incentives. The town’s population ballooned, as people from around Argentina flocked to the region for economic opportunity. The town now has upwards of 80,000 inhabitants.

Today, far-flung Ushuaia has become a top place to visit in Argentina and a magnet for adventure-seekers. It is the premier gateways for voyages to the land of ice and penguins.

Where to Stay Nearby

Though you won’t find any hotels within the national park’s boundaries, there are three main designated camping spots for the adventure-inclined: Laguna Verde, Río Pipo, and Ensenada Zaratiegui. Each site has basic facilities. Wild camping is prohibited to protect the park’s fragile ecosystem.

Most visitors choose to stay in nearby Ushuaia. The city has an array of lodging options that range from basic to luxurious.

Among budget options, the Posada Del Fin Del Mundo stands out for its affordable prices and cozy ambiance.

Hotel Albatros has stylish rooms and a central location near the cruise port. It is an excellent midrange option.

For a step up in luxury, the Arakur Ushuaia Resort and Spa has impeccable rooms, panoramic views of the beagle channel, spa amenities, and multiple pools and hot tubs.

Tierra del Fuego Tours

Tierra del Fuego is easy to explore independently.

But if you have limited time in the area, joining a tour can be an efficient and convenient way to visit the park. There are a number of half day tour options that are perfect for travelers who have a few hours to explore.

With a full day, you can join an eight hour trekking and canoeing tour of Lapataia Bay.

We visited Tierra del Fuego National Park prior to embarking on our Antarctica cruise with Atlas Ocean Voyages. The tour was a complementary pre-cruise excursion that brought us to the park’s highlights. It included a knowledgeable guide who loaded us with information about Tierra del Fuego’s history and biodiversity. The tour was a wonderful first leg to an extraordinary trip.

Getting to the National Park

At only 13 kilometers outside of Ushuaia city limits, Tierra del Fuego is very easy to access. The park is only a short 20 minute drive or taxi ride away.

Alternatively, buses travel between downtown Ushuaia and the national park nearly every hour.

For a more unique option, you can opt to take the Southern Fugian Railway, better known as the End of the World Train.The 50-minute journey into the park traces the final seven kilometers of an old freight line that once served Ushuaia’s prison. It is the world’s southernmost functioning rail line.

When to Visit Tierra del Fuego

Peak season in Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego National Park runs from December through February. During the Argentine summers, temperatures remain relatively mild (40–60°F) and long daylight hours leave plenty of time for exploring.

We visited the area in November and encountered mild weather.

Winter in Ushuaia (June-August) is cold and dark, with limited daylight hours.

However, if you’re into winter sports, you’ll find opportunities for skiing and snowboarding at Cerro Castor.

***

Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego is rugged, wild, and remote. It is a place with rich history, varied topography, and diverse wildlife.

As one of the most beautiful places to visit in Patagonia, it merits more than just a cursory pre-cruise glance.

And not just because of its proximity to the Great White Continent beyond.

The post Tierra del Fuego National Park in Argentina appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Iguazu Falls is one of the planet’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders. Situated in the heart of a verdant rainforest and featuring hundreds of cascades, the falls are global treasure and one of the top places to visit in South America.

Visiting Iguazu Falls is a jaw-dropping visceral experience. It is a sensory overload—engaging, in equal measure, all five of the senses.

I traveled to Iguazu Falls as part of a backpacking trip to Patagonia and Buenos Aires. Visiting Iguazu Falls was never part of the original plan. I had originally hoped to take a day trip from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento. At the last minute though, realizing the ferry from Buenos Aires was full for the Carneval weekend, I decided to visit Iguazu Falls instead.

It was an excellent choice.

Iguazu Falls: Wonder of the Natural World

Iguazu Falls is the world’s second largest waterfall and one of South America‘s greatest natural wonders. Stretching 2.7km across dense jungle, Iguazu is actually a chain of hundreds of waterfalls–some dainty rivulets and some roaring cascades–that plunge into the murky waters of the Rio Paraná.

Like its African rival, Victoria Falls, Iguazu has wowed travelers, photographers and storytellers alike with its thunderous cascades and its lush jungle setting.

Iguazu Falls: Brazil Side vs Argentina Side

Iguazu Falls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that lies between Brazil and Argentina. Due to high entry costs and visa fees, many travelers visiting Iguazu Falls choose to view the natural wonder from one side of the border or the other. The Brazil vs Argentina debate has become a heated topic of discussion among visitors to the falls and is the subject of countless blog posts and internet forums.

Yet, after choosing to see only the Zambian side of Victoria Falls and then later regretting my decision to skip its Zimbabwean counterpart, I promised myself I wouldn’t make the same mistake when visiting Iguazu Falls.

So I chose to spend two full days touring Iguazu,  and dedicated one to each side of the park.

Iguazu Falls Argentina Side

I spent my first day at Iguazu Falls exploring the Argentine side of the Paraná River. The Argentine side is characterized by an extensive network of trails and boardwalks that take visitors above, below and in front of the waterfall. The trails and footpaths allow tourists to get up close to the curtain of water and to see both its thundering power and its delicate beauty from a variety of perspectives.

For much of the day, I meandered along the various trails, through dense forests teeming with beautiful birds, butterflies and woodland creatures. The park’s lush, tropical forest is a haven for more than 2,000 plant species, 400 types of birds, 80 types of mammals and countless insect and reptile species. As I explored the various corners of the park, colorful birds flew overhead, swarms of butterflies darted amongst the trees and aggressive coatis scavenged for food.

Visiting the Argentine side of the park took the entire day–partly because the network of trails was so extensive and and partly because the holiday weekend crowds clogged the park’s pathways and caused traffic jams at the viewpoints.

Due to high water levels during my visit, trails around Isla San Martin were closed and blocked off. Yet, between the upper trail, the lower trail and Devil’s Throat, there was plenty to see to keep me entertained for the day.

Devil’s Throat is the tallest waterfall in the park, as well as its grandest. The thundering sheet of water drops more than 80 meters over cliffs, crashing into the murky, chocolate-colored waters of the Rio Paraná with a deafening roar.

To reach Devil’s Throat, most visitors take the complementary park train to a boardwalk and then continue for one kilometer along the wooden planks to the lip of the waterfall. Since lines at the train stations were so long when I visited, I chose instead to walk on the path alongside the tracks. The sweltering heat, along with the lack of shade on the trail, ensured that I was exhausted when I reached the boardwalk.

Yet, as I walked along the wooden platforms and neared Devil’s Throat, showers of mist provided me with the relief I needed from the relentless sun of the tropics. The sprays of water drenched my sweaty body from head to toe, soaking me to the core and wiping away the rivulets of sweat that had formed down my back and neck.

By the time I left Devil’s Throat and headed toward the park’s exit, I felt refreshed, reenergized and rejuvenated by the power of the falls.

Iguazu Falls Brazil Side

The next morning, I took the bus from Puerto Iguazu, across the border, to the Brazilian side of the park. My possession of an Italian passport allowed me to cross the border painlessly and without the hassle of obtaining a visa. Within an hour, I had made it door to door, from my hostel to the park’s entrance.

A common sentiment among travelers is that, while Argentina has the falls, Brazil has the views. And I found this assertion to be mostly true. Argentina contains nearly 80 percent of the waterfall, in addition the miles upon miles of trails and boardwalks that allow visitors to explore the cascades from every angle imaginable.

But the panoramas from Brazil—though fewer—are unobstructed and virtually unparalleled.

The short trails on the Brazilian side of the falls afforded me picture perfect postcard-views of the 275 waterfalls that tumble over mist-shrouded pillows of green forest.

***

Visitors convinced that a waterfall is a waterfall is a waterfall, will likely be blown away by the sheer volume of water that pours over the cliffs of Iguazu Falls. They will be awestruck by the gushing streams of water–some gentle trickles, some thunderous cascades–that, together, offer not only a visual experience, but also an auditory and sensory one.

I spent about two hours walking along the boardwalks, admiring the thundering water, snapping pictures of my surroundings and letting my senses be overwhelmed by the fury of the falls.

As with my visit to Victoria Falls, clouds of soaring mist painted the landscape in a hazy grey hue and muted the colors in my photographs. Thus, the pictures I took of the natural wonder do no justice to Iguazu’s scale and magnificence.

As I stepped into the spray of the waterfall and let myself be enveloped by its mist-raining glory, I couldn’t help but wonder why I’d ever questioned visiting Iguazu Falls before returning home. And I couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of happiness that I listened to my travel-obsessed heart, heeded Dan’s advice and continued my South American adventure for one final and epic hurrah.

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The post Visiting Iguazu Falls: Brazil and Argentina appeared first on Erika's Travels .

With its wide, tree-lined avenues, Art Nouveau architecture, cobblestone streets, and sidewalk cafés, Buenos Aires exudes a sultry charm that blends European elegance with Latin American flair.

Known affectionately around the world as BA, Buenos Aires is a tourist favorite. It entices visitors with its eclectic neighborhoods, vibrant atmosphere and party-till-you drop nightlife.

Buenos Aires: The Paris of South America

The Argentine capital possesses the sophistication and charm of Paris, while maintaining a rough and sometimes gritty exterior common in many South American cities. Buenos Aires quickly reveals itself as a city of contrasts—both brash and elegant, rough and refined.

Like Sao Paulo, I initially found Buenos Aires to be somewhat harsh on the exterior. On my first visit, I struggled to look past the city’s dirty streets and rundown buildings. However, on my second visit, I realized that I had simply spent too much time in the wrong places.

My first trip to the city was a 24-hour whirlwind of speed-walking from one attraction to another in suffocating heat. Poor planning led me to spend a substantial part of my day on foot between La Boca, Plaza de Mayo, and Recoleta Cemetery. As a result, I didn’t truly experience much beyond those three popular attractions and the spaces in between.

It was only on my second visit—en route to Tierra del Fuego, Antarctica and South Georgia—that I understood why Buenos Aires often tops travelers’ lists of favorite cities. Buenos Aires is not only Argentina’s capital, but it is also the axis around which everything in the country revolves. There is simply no better place to learn about about Argentina’s culture and history.

Things to Do in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is a massive city with tons of attractions. It is home to architectural landmarks, cultural traditions, culinary gems, and natural retreats.

There are enough things to do in Buenos Aires to keep you entertained for weeks.

However, I know that not everyone has unlimited time, so this guide highlights the city’s top attractions and experiences. You can fit them all into a three- or four-day itinerary.

Sightsee in Downtown Buenos Aires

Central Buenos Aires encompasses the neighborhoods of Montserrat, Retiro and San Nicolás. While not an official district of the city, the neighborhoods loosely form the city’s downtown core.

The downtown area is home to many of the top things to do in Buenos Aires. If you only have a day to explore the city, it is likely where you’ll spend the majority of your time.

• Plaza de Mayo and the Pink House

There’s no better place to start your tour of Buenos Aires than the city’s central square. Plaza de Mayo has been a gathering point for many momentous events, from political protests to World Cup victory celebrations. It is a hub for demonstrations and resistance movements and home to the weekly gathering in commemoration of Argentina’s ‘disappeared’—citizens abducted by the state during the dictatorship of Jorge Rafael Videla from 1976 to 1983.

The plaza is overlooked by the Casa Rosada, a distinctive pink palace that houses the office of Argentina’s president. At its center stands the Pirámide de Mayo, a white obelisk built to mark the first anniversary of Argentina’s independence from Spain.

We happened to visit Plaza de Mayo during a PRIDE celebration. Throngs of people flooded the streets. The vibe was absolutely electric.

The plaza is overlooked by the Casa Rosada, a distinctive pink palace that houses the office of Argentina’s president. At its center stands the Pirámide de Mayo, a white obelisk built to mark the first anniversary of Argentina’s independence from Spain.

We happened to visit Plaza de Mayo during a PRIDE celebration, and the atmosphere was absolutely electric, with throngs of people flooding the streets

• The Obelisk

One of the most iconic monuments in Buenos Aires, the Obelisco, soars above Plaza de la República on the Avenida 9 de Julio.

Erected in 1936 to mark the 400th anniversary of the city’s founding, the obelisk is ground zero for celebrations after major soccer victories. Passionate fans flock to the monument to sing, cheer, and honk their horns.

During our visit, crowds gathered at the Obelisco to support Boca Juniors as they faced Fluminense in the Copa Libertadores.

• The Teatro Colón

Dating back to 1908, Teatro Colón is South America’s most revered performance venue. Often compared to La Scala in Milan or the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, it is considered one of the greatest opera houses in the world.

The impressive seven-story theater is a prominent Buenos Aires landmark. The Colón can house 3,000 spectators..

While seeing a performance in person is the best way to experience the Colón Theater, you can also  join a 50-minute backstage tour of the venue.

The tour allows visitors to view the stunning interior of the Opera House, the costume department, and the dressing rooms.

• Cafe Tortoni

Often cited as one of the world’s most beautiful coffee houses, Café Tortoni dates back to 1858.

It isn’t really the food that draws daily lines of people to the cafe. In fact, the food is pretty average and overpriced by Buenos Aires standards.

But when it comes to Cafe Tortoni, you’re really paying for the atmosphere and the history of the place.

Over its 175+ year history, literary figures, politicians, and intellectuals have spent time at Café Tortoni. Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges was a regular at the coffeehouse, as was tango singer Carlos Gardel. Famous international visitors have included Hillary Clinton and Albert Einstein.

Visit the San Telmo Neighborhood

San Telmo is Buenos Aires’ oldest neighborhood. Historically home to dockworkers and brick-makers, it is now known for its Parisian-style architecture, bohemian atmosphere, antique shops, and tango culture.

Open-air galleries and street vendors fill the cobblestone streets, making the neighborhood feel both lively and steeped in history.

• The Mercado San Telmo

One of San Telmo’s focal points, the indoor San Telmo Market, occupies an entire city block and dates back to 1897. Inside, you’ll find a mix of fruit vendors and international eateries.

We ate at the San Telmo Market twice and found the food offerings to be varied and diverse. We ate at a Swiss restaurant and an Italian place. Prices seemed comparable to those on the street.

• The Sunday Market

The Feria de San Telmo (San Telmo Street Fair) began as a 270-stall antiques market in 1970. Since then, it has grown into a huge street bazaar with vendors that sell everything from handmade goods to antique china. Hundreds of stalls set up shop every Sunday along Calle Defensa and Plaza Dorrego. Each week, an estimated 10,000 people browse the fair for bargains.

If you happen to visit Buenos Aires on a weekend, the San Telmo Market is a must-see.

• Mafalda Statues

Mafalda is the heroine in an Argentine comic strip that was written and drawn by cartoonist Quino. The strip features a six-year-old girl named Mafalda, who had a deep concern for humanity. It was first published in 1964 and was wildly popular in Argentina and beyond.

A statue of Mafalda sits on a bench in San Telmo with her two friends. You’ll find other comic book characters scattered around the San Telmo neighborhood.

Visit the Neighborhood of La Boca

Just South of San Telmo, lies La Boca—the most colorful neighborhood in Buenos Aires. Home to the world renowned Boca Juniors and practically synonymous with tango, this relatively poor area of the city has been rejuvenated into one of Buenos Aires’ premier attractions.

La Boca has a rich cultural history. Like London’s East End and New York City’s Lower East Side, La Boca was the neighborhood in which many of the city’s immigrants (primarily Italians from Genoa), first established roots in Buenos Aires. These immigrants constructed tenements made from scrap metal and used leftover paint from the shipyard to liven up their ramshackle homes.

By the end of the 1800s, La Boca was to Buenos Aires what Montmartre was to Paris–a vibrant enclave of immigrant artists, that maintained its own identity within a large and sophisticated city.

• El Caminito

El Caminito is an ‘open-air’ museum of brightly painted houses. On the surface, El Caminito might seem like a gimmicky, Disney-style tourist trap full of kitschy souvenir shops and street performers, but peeling its colorful façade reveals an area that is both authentic and alive.

Today, the ramshackle colorful buildings of El Caminito are the city’s most distinct. Peering down at the street from the balconies, you’ll see figures of Juan and Eva Perón, Che Guevara and soccer legend Diego Maradona.

• La Bombonera Stadium

For football fans, no trip to BA is complete without visiting Estadio Alberto J. Armando, lovingly known as “La Bombonera.”

Home to the city’s beloved Boca Juniors, the stadium is known for its incredible acoustics and passionate atmosphere. The stadium’s stands are very close to the pitch, which makes for an unbeatable atmosphere.

The Passion for Boca Juniors Museum, located inside the stadium, showcases memorabilia of the club’s 100 year history. You can also join guided 40 minute tour of the facility’s stands and locker rooms.

We didn’t have the chance to attend a soccer game while in Buenos Aires.

But the next time we visit the city, catching a game at the Bombonera will be at the top of our to-do list.

Explore the Recoleta Neighborhood

Recoleta is an upscale neighborhood in Buenos Aires that is famous for its European-style buildings and outdoor cafes. An elaborate 14 acre cemetery—final resting place of former first lady Eva Perón—is its. primary draw.

With tree-shaded streets, sprawling green spaces, and dozens of trendy cafes, the Recoleta neighborhood makes a popular base for exploring the city.

• The Recoleta Cemetery

Strolling through the Recoleta cemetery is like walking through a neighborhood of the dead. Passageways lead through a collection of over 6,000 ornate marble mausoleums that tower above the narrow streets like intricately carved buildings.

Regarded as one of the most impressive cemeteries in the world, the Recoleta Cemetery contains the graves of military generals, Nobel Prize Laureates, writers and presidents. It famously houses the mausoleum of Eva Perón, Argentia’s beloved and controversial first lady.

Eva Perón was the second wife of the mid-20th century Argentine president, Juan Perón. In the wake of a coup that deposed of her husband, Eva Perón’s embalmed body disappeared. Various accounts suggest that her body was passed around from hiding place to hiding place before being smuggled out of Argentina and buried in Milan.

It took over twenty years for Peron’s body to make its way back to Argentina’s Recoleta Cemetery.

• The Floralis Genérica

The giant aluminum and steel Floralis Genérica, located in the center of Plaza Naciones Unidas, is a symbol of Buenos Aires. The flower’s architect, Eduardo Catalano, donated the sculpture to the city in 2002. Catalano once said the sculpture was “a synthesis of all the flowers and a hope that is reborn every day.”

The flower’s giant petals open and close like a real flower, every morning and every evening. When the bloom is fully open, the Floralis Genérica measures 105ft wide.

• El Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookstore

Buenos Aires is a book-lover’s heaven. The Argentine capital has more bookstores per capita than any other city in the world.

Even if you’re not a book nerd, however, you’ll want to step inside the Ateneo Grand Splendid—the city’s most visually stunning bookshop.

The Ateneo Grand Splendid is a converted opera theater that maintains many of its original features, including a frescoed ceiling.

The Ateneo Grand Splendid is consistently regarded as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. It’s right up there with Livraria Lello in Porto Portugal.

Take a Stroll around Palermo

The largest neighborhood in Buenos Aires is generally broken up into several smaller sub-neighborhoods. It is really a neighborhood of neighborhoods, each with its own nickname and feel: Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Chico, Alto Palermo, Las Cañitas and Villa Freud.

In Palermo, palaces-turned-embassies and ornate 1960s-era apartment buildings mix with hip eateries, fashionable boutiques, and resplendent parks.

You’ll find a number of large parks interlaced throughout the neighborhood. Collectively, they make for a wonderful urban escape.

• Parque Tres de Febrero

Parque Tres de Febrero, popularly known as Bosques de Palermo (Palermo Woods), is known for its groves, lakes, and gardens. The green lung of Buenos Aires, Parque Tres de Febrero is the city’s largest park. It contains monuments, statues, an observatory, a garden dedicated to poets, and a rose garden.

There are plenty of grassy areas and shady trees in the park, with ample space for kids to run around. A path winds around the park’s largest artificial lake. It is a popular spot for cyclists, joggers and rollerbladers.

• Ecoparque Buenos Aires

The Buenos Aires Eco Park  in Palermo is a former zoo that still houses animals in its ponds and among its grasses. Originally opened in 1888, the zoo once contained over 2,500 animals. In 2016, however, the zoo shut down due to allegations of poor animal welfare.

Many of the zoo’s animals have since moved to nature reserves, while some others stayed back in the conservation-centered eco park that reopened a few years later.

You’ll find plenty of birds and Patagonian mara throughout the park. I imagine it would be a top place to visit in Buenos Aires with kids.

• Jardin Japones

The Japanese Garden houses bonsai trees, orchids, carp-filled ponds and Japanese sculptures. It is a relaxing retreat adjacent to Parque Tres de Febrero and one of the top places to visit in Palermo.

You can see a bit of the Japanese garden beyond its perimeter fence, but to walk around, you’ll need to shell out a small entrance fee.

Stroll along Puerto Madero

The Puerto Madero Waterfront, situated in the Buenos Aires business district, serves as a showcase for the city’s contemporary architecture. It is the most modern and upscale neighborhood within central Buenos Aires. This once-neglected port of Buenos Aires features gleaming skyscrapers, luxury hotels, and some of the city’s top eateries.

Puente de la Mujer is one of the neighborhood’s most most distinctive features. The prominent Buenos Aires landmark—designed to represent the image of a couple dancing tango—features an angled single mast.

Puerto Madero is worth visiting both during the day and at night, when its illuminated bridges and buildings reflect onto the water.

Cruise through the Tigre Delta

The city of Tigre lies at the northern end of the Buenos Aires metropolitan area. Though technically a separate town, its proximity to downtown makes it a top 3+ day itinerary destination.

At 5,405 square miles, the Tigre Delta is among the world’s largest. It is also one of the only major deltas in the world that does not empty into a sea or ocean (the Okavango Delta is another that comes to mind). Instead, the Paraná River flows into the Río de la Plata, which separates Argentina and Uruguay.

Tinted by sediment that flows down the Parana River, the latte colored waters of the Tigre Delta spread outward, like branches of a tree. Among the waterways, you can find inhabited islands only reachable by boat.

Entire communities live out on the islands of the Tigre Delta, with schools and shops and restaurants. The forest and grass covered islands are popular retreats among tourists and burnt-out Porteños. You’ll find hotels and guesthouses tucked into the trees.

To best explore the delta, you can join an organized boat tour or rely on public ferry boats. We chose to take an hour-long excursion through some of the area’s channels. Taking a boat tour through the area feels a bit like exploring the Xochimilco Canals in Mexico City.

Eat at an Argentine Steakhouse

Argentina is a carnivore’s dream. The city has plenty of steakhouses that are satisfying to the tastebuds and easy on the wallet.

The most famous steakhouse in Argentina is Don Julio—a Michelin-rated restaurant that some consider to be among Latin America’s finest.

While we didn’t get reservations to Don Julio, Dan and I ate a satisfying steak dinner at Parrilla Peña, a no-frills steakhouse with fabulous reviews and excellent food.

Attend a Tango Show

Buenos Aires is practically synonymous with tango. The dance developed in Buenos Aires’ working class immigrant neighborhoods in the mid-19th century. Forged through a fusion of European, African and native Argentine influences, tango became a worldwide sensation by the 1930s. The dance is revered for its romance, nostalgia, fluid movements, and daringly close embrace.

Today Buenos Aires remains the world capital of tango. The city is awash with professional stage shows, informal street performances, and tango classes.

There are a slew of tango shows to choose from in Buenos Aires. Popular ones include the performance at Cafe de los Angelitos and the Rojo Tango performance at the Faena Hotel.

Currency Exchange in Buenos Aires

The blue market in Argentina refers to the country’s black market for foreign currency exchange. It gets its name from the blue strip on newer dollar bills. This market operates outside the legal banking system, often through informal exchange houses.

In Argentina, US Dollars are particularly valuable. You can get a much better exchange rate if you bring crisp 100 dollar bills to Argentina and exchange them on the blue market. Official exchange rates give you less purchasing power.

The existence of the blue market reflects Argentina’s ongoing struggles with inflation and economic instability. Rates change daily. When we visited, the blue market vs official rates were something like 3:1. Now the gap seems to be quite a bit smaller. You can monitor the current rates online, here.

Where to Stay in Buenos Aires

Lodging in Buenos Aires comes in many forms. You’ll find luxurious hotels, cozy guesthouses, and cheap party-oriented youth hostels. During our most recent visit to Buenos Aires, we split our time between the Ibis Styles Florida downtown, the Syrah Suites in Palermo, and the Hilton Buenos Aires in Puerto Madero. Each accommodation provided a totally different experience.

The Ibis Styles is a budget option on a lively pedestrian drag, in the middle of the city’s downtown action. It is great for travelers seeking a private room on a budget.

The Syrah Suites boasts B&B-style rooms in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. The accommodation is clean, conveniently located, and affordable.

The Hilton Buenos Aires attracts travelers seeking the comfort and reliability of a well-established hotel brand. For a luxurious alternative with a bit more Argentine flair, consider the historic Faena Hotel.

When to Visit Buenos Aires

The best time to visit Buenos Aires is in the spring (from September-November) and Fall (from March-June). These seasons have moderate temperatures, fewer crowds, and reasonable hotel prices. 

I first visited Buenos Aires in January, on the tail end of a trip to Torres del Paine,  El Chalten, and El Calafate. During our stay, the weather was so hot and humid that it hindered our ability to enjoy the city to its fullest potential.

My second trip was in November. The difference was huge. We encountered cloudless skies and moderate sunny temperatures. November also coincided jacaranda blooms that painted the city’s green spaces with splashes of purple.

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My initial impression of Buenos Aires had largely vanished by the end of my first visit, leaving me with impressions of a city that is both elegant and electrifying.

At the end of my second visit, I became a raving fan.

Buenos Aires is a city with European delicacy and Latin American zeal. A city with wide 20-lane boulevards and quaint, cobblestone alleys. A city with hole-in-the wall panaderias and some of the world’s best steakhouses. From the working-class neighborhoods of San Telmo and La Boca, to the upscale districts of Recoleta and Palermo, the Paris of South America is a melange of culturally distinct communities that, together, form a vibrant, energetic and passionate city.

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Situated in the stunning northern reaches of Patagonia’s Los Glaciares National park and tucked under the shadow of Mount Fitz Roy, sits the tiny mountain town of El Chalten.

The area around El Chalten encapsulates everything that travelers love about Patagonia. It is home to hanging glaciers, sculpted mountains, and crystalline lakes. One would be hard pressed to find a town with a more picturesque setting.

EL CHALTEN ARGENTINA

El Chalten is a tiny town that bursts at the seams with backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts. Made popular for its proximity to some of South America‘s most striking scenery, El Chalten is a magnet for hikers, adventure-seekers and longterm travelers.

El Chalten is to Argentina what Torres del Paine is to Chile. Both are havens for hikers. Both contain a melange of craggy, glacier-crowned mountains draped in glistening waterfalls. Both offer varied terrain, from scrubland to windblown cliffs and from rolling meadows to glacial lakes. Both offer spectacular views that are difficult to capture in pictures and impossible to describe in words.

And yet, while I loved both Torres del Paine and El Chalten, my experiences in the two popular hiking meccas were entirely different. Torres del Paine is remote and more difficult to access. Hiking in the park requires preparation, forethought and gear that is suitable for unpredictable weather.

On the other hand, hiking in El Chalten is made easier by the fact that most of the scenic trails leave from town and can be explored as day hikes. Thus, warm hostel beds and hearty food options are never more than 30km away. For those who feel more comfortable taking day trips rather than carrying their homes on their backs, El Chalten offers a great alternative to trekking in Torres del Paine.

POPULAR HIKES IN EL CHALTEN

El Chalten is a mecca for day hikers and backpackers alike. The town is the starting point for the challenging Paso del Viento trail, as well as a launching pad for spectacular day hikes to the glacial lakes at the base of Mount Fitz Roy.

Though there are many El Chalten hikes that cater to varying levels of fitness, the lengthy day hikes to Cerro Torre (~24km) and Laguna de Los Tres (~30km), are among the most popular in the park.

• DAY HIKE TO LAGUNA TORRE FROM EL CHALTEN

On our first day in El Chalten, Dan and I decided to hike the popular trail to the base of Laguna Torre. Roundtrip, the hike to Laguna Torre from El Chalten is about 24km long and takes hikers along the Rio Fitz Roy, to the base of the towers. The area around the Rio Fitz Roy is home to a colorful array of birds. Throughout the hike, Dan and I kept our eyes peeled for colorful woodpeckers and other signs of wildlife.

During our day hike to Cerro Torre, we followed the river through forests and over hills, using the jagged mountain peaks as our compass. We could see the serrated peaks throughout the hike–rising dramatically above the wide valleys and windswept landscapes.

When we reached the lake, we sat in the shade of the mountains for a while, admiring the floating chunks of ice and watching the clouds dart around Cerro Torre’s towering granite spires.

After admiring the surrounding scenery from the lakeshore, Dan and I decided to continue hiking up a ridge toward an unmarked lookout. We scrambled up rocks and over loose scree to discover sweeping views of a large glacier that flows down the mountainside.

Though the overcast skies cast a grey shadow around us and muted the colors of the landscape, we counted ourselves lucky that we were able to dodge Patagonia’s notorious wind and rain for yet another day.

• DAY HIKE TO LAGUNA DE LOS TRES

The following morning, we were even luckier when the cloud cover lifted during our longer and more strenuous 30km hike to Laguna de Los Tres. On our second day of hiking in El Chalten, light drenched our surroundings in color–bringing out the greens of the trees, the turquoise of the water and the varying shades of grey and brown in the cliffs.

Laguna de Los Tres is the most famous day hike around El Chalten. Like the trail we took the previous day, it crosses over riverbeds and through forests, offering hikers breathtaking views of the serrated peaks that rise above the Earth like jagged teeth.

As we neared the laguna at the base of Mount Fitz Roy, the trail became steeper and steeper, until I found myself practically scrambling 1.5km up the vertical side of a mountain.

For a moment, I wished that the brilliant sun would disappear behind the clouds and give me some relief from the heat.

Then, I saw the peaks in all their colorful glory and reminded myself that seeing them basked in sunlight would be worth the pools of sweat, the burning in my legs and the prodding in my head.

And was it ever.

From the summit of the hike, we were rewarded with spectacular views of Cerro Fitz Roy. Rising from the turquoise waters of the lagoon, the mountain’s jagged spires pierce the sky, poking and prodding the swirling clouds.

We hiked around the lakeshore and scrambled over boulders–exhausted and sore, yet driven forward by the promise of beautiful panoramas and by the ever-expanding views of the adjacent Laguna Sucia.

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El Chalten is one of the world’s greatest hiking meccas. From its small cluster of hostels and guesthouses, outdoor enthusiasts can explore a number of spectacular day hikes and long treks around the base of the iconic Mount Fitz Roy—Argenitina’s most beloved mountain.

Mount Fitz Roy is an iconic symbol of Patagonia, alongside Torres del Paine, the Perito Moreno Glacier, and Tierra del Fuego. It is these peaks that inspired the logo for Yvon Chouinard’s popular clothing brand, Patagonia. And it is this raw and wild scenery that draws thousands of visitors annually to the tiny and otherwise sleepy village of El Chalten.

As we waved goodbye to Patagonia and headed toward the airport en-route to Buenos Aires, I couldn’t help but think that our hostel-mate, Nancy, was right.

El Chalten really is a little slice of glacier-studded, granite-spired paradise on Earth.

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The Perito Moreno Glacier is a dazzling blue and white expanse of pure awesomeness. It is one of Earth’s most dynamic and accessible ice fields and a highlight of traveling in Patagonia. 

The glacier  is huge —30km long, 5km wide, and 60 meters tall—and growing every day. With colossal chunks of ice that break off its face and plunge into the turquoise waters below, Perito Moreno provides an immersive experience that is both visual and auditory.

The glacier is a masterpiece of nature. A a stunning example of earth’s forces moving and working in real-time. Visiting it is 100% worth the hype (and price tag). 

PERITO MORENO GLACIER IN ARGENTINA

The Perito Moreno Glacier is among the most beautiful places to visit in Argentina. It lies 80km from the touristy town of El Calafate, in the southern reaches of Los Glaciares National Park.  

A UNESCO World Heritage Site in the southern Andes, Los Glaciares contains many glaciers that are fed by the massive South Patagonian Ice Field—the largest ice cap outside of Antarctica and Greenland and one of the world’s leading sources of freshwater. 

Along with Tierra del Fuego and the multi-pronged peaks of Mount Fitzroy, Perito Moreno is among the top places to see in Argentine Patagonia. 

WHY IS PERITO MORENO SO FAMOUS?

While most glaciers around the world are receding due to climate change, Perito Moreno is unique in that it is actually expanding (albeit ever so slightly). A low gap in the Andes allows frequent storms to cover the surrounding mountaintops in snow all year round. 

Under tremendous weight, the snow crystallizes and flows eastward down the mountain, pushing the glacier across Lago Argentino.

Thus, though chunks of the glacier are continually breaking off the wall of ice and sliding into the lake, the size of the ice sheet does not decrease. 

PERITO MORENO GLACIER VIEWING PLATFORMS

Marked wooden boardwalks give visitors unparalleled views of the glacier wall that towers above Lago Argentino’s icy waters. The viewing platforms allow visitors to see, hear, and photograph the Perito Moreno Glacier up-close.

Our ice trekking tour included about 45 minutes of free time for exploring. We spent the entire time on the boardwalks, soaking in the extraordinary views of the ice sheet. In amazement, we watched as chunks of ice broke off the vertical wall with deafening roars.

We realized quickly that standing in the presence of the Perito Moreno Glacier is as much an auditory experience as a visual one. For the glacier is continually in motion—cracking, expanding, and plunging into the lake below.

TREKKING TOUR ON THE PERITO MORENO GLACIER

In order to appreciate the grandiose beauty of Perito Moreno, I highly recommend joining an ice trekking tour.

Trekking atop the ice field allows you to relish the glacier from a different vantage point. It showcases the pristine beauty of the national park and introduces you to more dazzling shades of blue than you ever knew existed.

Our tour of Perito Moreno began with a short boat ride to the edge of the glacier, near the Big Ice Trek trailhead. From water level, it was easy to appreciate the towering height of the glacier face.

Prior to touring Perito Moreno, I’d visited the the Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau Alaska and the Columbia ice field on the border of Jasper and Banff. I thought I knew exactly what to expect.

But nothing quite prepared me for the sheer size of Argentina’s most famous glacier.

Even the Grey Glacier that Dan and I had seen a few days prior in Torres del Paine seemed tiny in comparison.

After a short boat ride, we began a forty minute walk up a trail that runs parallel to the ice field.

When we reached the starting point of the trek, our guide taught us how to use crampons and gave us a few safety tips.

Atop the glacier, we were fully immersed in the textures and colors and movement of the ice field.

And as we walked away from its debris-stained edges, all the vibrant blues you can imagine started to sparkle beneath the brilliant sun.

The undulating surface of the glacier is in constant motion, much like a sand dune. At some points, spires of ice rise sharply skyward—their valleys and peaks interrupted by pools and streams of meltwater. In other places, the ice is smooth and stretches as far as the eye can see, before plunging into a brilliantly blue abyss.

It is the kind of place that I find impossible to describe with words.

HIELO Y AVENTURA ICE TREKKING TOURS

We chose to join Hielo Y Aventura for the our ice trekking experience. The company runs two tours on Perito Moreno each day—the Mini Trek and the Big Ice Trek.

Hiely y Aventura is the only company permitted to operate trekking tours on the glacier.

• MINI TREKKING

The Mini Trek offers an introduction to glacier hiking. It is perfect for travelers who don’t want to commit to the hefty price tag or long duration of the Big Ice tour.

Hielo Y Aventura’s mini trekking excursion dedicates 1.5 hours to hiking on the ice.

Participants must be at least 10 years old.

• BIG ICE TREK

The Big Ice Trek allows you to spend three hours on the ice as opposed to one and a half. It also promises the opportunity to see crevices, cracks and glacial lakes on a much larger scale.   

Dan and I chose the Big Ice Trek since we’d read such rave reviews.

We’re so glad we did.  

Our tour granted us 45 minutes to watch the glacier in action from the viewing platforms. It included roundtrip transport to Los Glaciares National Park, a boat ride to the edge of the glacier, all the gear for our three hour trek, and a shot of whiskey at the end. 

Due to insurance liability reasons, the Big Ice Trek is limited to people aged 18-65.

OTHER PERITO MORENO GLACIER TOURS

While Hielo y Aventura offers the only ice trekking tours, it is by no means the sole tour operator in the area. There are a host of other glacier tours, bookable online, that allow you enjoy Perito Moreno from all angles.

Kayak tours on Lago Argentino offers the opportunity to get close to the action and witness the calving glacier from water level.

And if you want to explore the area by catamaran, a full day boat cruise of Los Glaciares National Park will bring you face to face with the Upsala and Bertracci glaciers in addition to Perito Moreno.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR LOS GLACIARES NATIONAL PARK

El Calafate is the closest city to the Perito Moreno Glacier. Unless you’re camping within Los Glaciares National Park, it will likely be your base when visiting the area.

The America del Sur Hostel is a great option for backpackers and solo travelers. While somewhat more expensive than other hostels in the area, it boasts a large patio and lovely views of the nearby mountains and lakes.

Posada Karut Josh is a charming midrange option with lively decor, a lakeside location, and stellar reviews.

And if you’re got some extra dollars to spend, you’ll want to look no further than the Mirador del Lago Hotel—with its clean rooms, stylish decor, and upscale amenities.

PERITO MORENO GLACIER HOURS AND FEES

Entrance to the Perito Moreno Glacier costs 500 ARS (~$30 USD). The fee is payable in cash, at the entrance to the park.

If you sign up for a tour, make sure to check whether entrance to the park is included in the price of your excursion. Most companies—including Hielo y Aventura—do not include the park entrance in their rate.

The gate to the national park opens at 8 am and closes at 6 pm during summer months. In winter, the hours are 9am to 4pm.

You can stay in the park up to two hours past the last entrance time.

GETTING TO THE GLACIER FROM EL CALAFATE

El Calafate is 90 minutes away from Perito Moreno by car.

Most people opt for the easy way of getting from El Calafate to Perito Moreno: a glacier tour that includes transport. We chose this option, as transport was included in our tour package.

During peak season, buses travel to and from the park three times a day. The earliest ones leave at around 8:30 AM and the latest return at 7:30 PM.

CalTur and Chaltén Travel both operate this route. Timetables can be found on their respective websites.

WHEN TO VISIT THE PERITO MORENO GLACIER

The best time to visit El Calafate is during the Southern Hemisphere’s Spring and Summer, from October to April.

We picked the perfect February day to visit Perito Moreno and couldn’t have been luckier weather-wise.

Of course, weather in Patagonia is notoriously unpredictable. Traveling in prime season does not necessarily mean you will have favorable weather.

Whatever time of year you plan to visit, make sure to bring lots of layers and plenty of sunscreen.

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Our day trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier was absolutely incredible, from start to finish. It brought us face to face with one of South America‘s most striking geographical features and allowed us to witness the dynamic Patagonia Ice Field in action.

At the end of our Big Ice Trek, our guides served us shots of whiskey over 200 year old glacial ice.

It was the perfect way to finish off an unforgettable adventure.

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