In southwest Turkey, along a particularly vibrant stretch of turquoise sea, lies the site of Halicarnassus, home to one of the ancient wonders of the world.

Today, not much remains of the site itself.

Instead, you’ll find a bustling seaside port that beckons travelers with its boutique-filled, whitewashed streets and impossibly blue waters.

Bodrum: The St Tropez of Turkey

Bodrum is the most fashionable seaside escape along the Turkish Riviera. People often liken Bodrum to the glitzy town of St Tropez in France. Or the chic island of St Barths in the Caribbean.

The old town’s narrow, picturesque streets seamlessly merge into terraces and hip bars. Traditional music cafés stand beside modern nightclubs. The town exudes a pleasant ambiance, with its photogenic harbor and perfectly positioned historic castle.

While the beaches around town didn’t initially strike me as breathtaking, the area’s impossibly blue waters won me over. The saturated hues rivaled those that I’d encountered in Milos Greece and Malta’s Comino Island.

Things to See in Bodrum

Bodrum offers a mix of historical landmarks and natural escapes.

Though the town contains one of the most important archaeological sites of ancient history, the ruins today leave much to the imagination.

During our stay along the Turkish Riviera, we didn’t manage to check off all the must-see attractions. Instead, we spent most of our time strolling through downtown, soaking in the waterfront views, and enjoying a boat tour to Orak Island.

Mausoleum of Helicarnassus

The legendary Mausoleum of Helicarnassus—one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World— was a monumental tomb built around 350 BCE for Mausolus, a Persian ruler. Celebrated for its grand scale and intricate carvings, the structure blended Greek, Egyptian, and Lycian architectural elements

You won’t be able to visualize the once-magnificent temple by visiting its ruins. Its few scattered remnants are about as intact as those at Ephesus‘ Temple of Artemis. Of the Seven Wonders, only the Pyramids of Giza remain intact.

Although the Mausoleum of Helicarnassus now consists of a few scattered rock fragments, its legacy endures. The term “mausoleum” has become synonymous with grand tombs.

Unfortunately, we never actually made it to the site during our stay in Bodrum. While we had every intention of stopping by, we ran out of time before our flight back to Istanbul.

Bodrum Castle

Bodrum Castle, also known as the Castle of St. Peter, is a medieval fortress that stands guard over the city’s yacht-filled harbor. Built by the Knights Hospitaller in the early 15th century, it served as a stronghold against Ottoman forces.

The fortress showcases a blend of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. Its walls contain stones from the nearby Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, which partially explains why you’ll see so little of the ancient archeological site in the present day.

The castle is also home to the Museum of Underwater Archaeology, which features artifacts recovered from Aegean shipwrecks.

Bodrum Amphitheater

The Bodrum Amphitheater, an ancient Greek venue from the 4th century BC, is carved into the hillside overlooking the Aegean Sea. It once accommodated up to 13,000 spectators.

Restored in modern times, the amphitheater now hosts concerts and cultural events, offering a glimpse into the region’s rich history and artistic heritage.

Like the Mausoleum, we planned to visit the amphitheater but had to forego it due to time constraints and toddler nap schedules.

Bodrum’s Streets and Alleyways

Bodrum’s bustling streets reminded me of those on the Greek Islands. While not as heavily tourist-driven as Santorini, the town felt comparable to Paros or Naxos.

We enjoyed wandering aimlessly along Bodrum’s main drag, exploring boutiques, and browsing souvenir shops.

The Windmills of Gumbet

The windmills of Bodrum lie just west of town, between Bodrum and Gumbet. The seven abandoned windmills date back to 18th century. Once vital to the area, they remained in use until the 1970s.

From the windmills, you can enjoy panoramic views of both Gumbet Bay and Bodrum Bay.

Once again, we skipped this top Bodrum attraction due to limited time.

Bodrum Boat Tour

I think most people would agree that the turquoise sea is Bodrum’s #1 draw.

So when my parents offered to watch Elio for the afternoon, we siezed the opportunity to join a boat tour sans toddler.

Orak Island

Orak Island, located off Bodrum’s coast, is renowned for its crystal-clear waters and tranquil beauty. An uninhabited gem, the island features stunning pristine coves perfect for sailing and snorkeling.

Tour operators often call Orak Island the “Turkish Maldives.”

While I wouldn’t expect the Maldives to resemble this Mediterranean island, the comparison to its crystalline waters makes sense.

Around Bodrum, you’ll find numerous tour agencies offering excursions to Orak Island and its surroundings. Since the island is only accessible by boat, joining a tour is the best option unless you have a private yacht.

Bays in Bodrum

Homer once called Bodrum the “Land of Eternal Blue.” A cruise around its bays and inlets proves why. Its waters are some of the bluest blues I’ve ever seen.

Our tour boat visited Rabbit Bay, German Bay, and Red Bay, in addition to Orak Island. Each stop offered uniquely swimmable waters, with shades ranging from cerulean to cobalt.

Islands of the Sapphire Coast

A number of small rocky islands speckle the Turquoise Coast near Bodrum.

These uninhabited islands—some belonging to Greece and others to Turkey—rise barely above the surface of the water.

When we visited, we noticed that many of these little islets had Turkish flags billowing in the breeze. A quick google search indicated that these flags were likely erected to celebrate the 100 year anniversary of the Turkish state.

I don’t know if these flags will remain much past the centennial. However, considering the ongoing disputes between Greece and Turkey over the Dodecanese islands near Bodrum, I have the feeling that they’ll stick around for a bit.

Where to Stay in Bodrum

We stayed at Agan Pension while in Bodrum. The hotel offered a central location and clean rooms at an affordable price. A similar option is Bodrum Sade Pension. Reviewers mention its charming decor and proximity to downtown.

The Marmara Hotel in Bodrum is a luxury adult only hotel situated atop a hill, with views of Bodrum and its bays.

For a luxurious experience, The Marmara Hotel offers adult-only accommodations atop a hill with panoramic views. Meanwhile, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, located on a private beach outside of town, provides the ultimate retreat for those seeking the opulence.

Bodrum Turkey Tours

Even if you only plan on staying one day in Bodrum, I suggest you spend at least some of it out on the water.

So unless you are traveling around the Turquoise Coast in your private yacht, you’re probably going to join a boat tour.

Plenty of agencies around town sell day trips to Orak Island and the Bodrum coast.

The tours to Orak Island each seem quite similar to one another. When we traveled to the area, I booked the tour in-person, one day in advance.

Additionally you can join a private day tour of the city if you’re keen on seeing Bodrum’s top sites in a day. This is a particularly attractive option for cruise ship visitors who have limited time in the area.

When to Visit Bodrum

The best time to visit Bodrum, Turkey, is during the spring (April to June) and fall (September to October). During these months, the weather is pleasant and sunny. The shoulder months also allow you to enjoy Bodrum’s attractions without peak season (July and August) crowds.

We visited Bodrum in September and encountered beautiful weather during our stay.

***

Bodrum wasn’t initially part of our Turkey itinerary. Instead, it was a place that we found ourselves in briefly due to logistics. After road tripping from Cappadocia to Ephesus, we needed a place to spend a day or two before flying back to Istanbul.

It turned out to be a great choice.

Though we didn’t tick off all of Bodrum’s must-see attractions, the glitzy seaside town provided the perfect counterbalance to our monument-filled journey, offering relaxation and a chance to swim in the “Land of Eternal Blue.”

The post Bodrum Turkey: The Land of Eternal Blue appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Ephesus Turkey offers a captivating window into Greco-Roman civilization. Once a thriving metropolis, Ephesus was an important center for culture and trade during its heyday.

Today, the ancient city on Turkey’s western coast stands as one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in the world.

Walking through its marble-paved streets—past towering columns and the iconic Library of Celsus—transports you back to a time when Ephesus was not only a center of learning and trade, but also an important place in early Christian history.

The Ephesus Archaeological Site

If you tend to think of ruins as nothing more than old rock piles, you may be surprised by Ephesus’ incredible wealth of artistry and detail. Its ruins are some of the best preserved in the eastern Mediterranean—comparable to those of Athens, Baalbek and Palmyra.

Ephesus is one of Turkey’s top tourist destinations, alongside Cappadocia, Istanbul and Pamukkale. It is a popular stop along Turkey’s well-trodden tourist trail, as well as the top destination for cruisers disembarking at Kuşadası port.

Despite its grandeur, more than 80% of the Ephesus archaeological site remains uncovered.

I can only imagine what the city must have looked like in its glory days.

Things to See in Ephesus

Ephesus’ main archaeological sites line Curetes Street, a marble road that connects Hercules Gate and the resplendent Celsus Library.

Along Curetes Street, you’ll see the most prominent Ephesus attractions—including theaters, temples, ancient lavish villas,

The Library of Celsus

If you’ve seen pictures of Ephesus, chances are that the photos feature the archeological site’s  ancient library. The iconic Library of Celsus once housed thousands of scrolls and served as a symbol of the city’s intellectual prominence.

Constructed in the 2nd century AD, it was named after the city’s former Roman governor.

Today, only the library’s impressive facade remains, though you can still see some of the building’s intricate stonework. The library is a silent witness to the city’s stature as a great center of learning and early Christian scholarship during the Roman period.

The Great Theater

Beyond the main Ephesus entrance, the Great Theater of Ephesus is the first major ruin that you’re likely to come across. The semicircular structure looks out over the city’s Harbor Road and lies adjacent to the ancient Agora.

The grandeur of the Great Theatre reflects the city’s influential status as a cultural and political hub in the ancient world. At its height, Ephesus’ Great Theater could accommodate 25,000 spectators.

The Great Theater of Ephesus dates back to the Hellenistic Period in the 3rd century BC. However, it underwent large renovations and expansions in subsequent centuries under Roman rule.

The Odeon Theater

The Odeion of Ancient Ephesus is a small semi-circular theater that was constructed roughly 500 years after the Great Theater.

It functioned as both a senate meeting place and a concert hall for performances.

The semi-circular building had a capacity for 1500 spectators.

Temple of Hadrian

The Temple of Hadrian is one of the most beautiful ruins along Curetes Street in Ephesus. Dedicated to Emperor Hadrian, its artistry and detail resembles that of the world-renowned Celsus Library.

The facade of the temple has four Corinthian columns that support a decorated arch. The center of the arch contains a carved relief of Tyche, goddess of victory.

The Terraced Houses

The Terrace Houses of Ephesus lie opposite to the Temple of Hadrian. So far, two housing complexes—Eastern and Western—have been excavated.

Several wall paintings in the Terrace Houses offer an insight into the everyday life of the inhabitants.

The excavation work of the Terrace Houses started in 1960 and their restoration is an ongoing process.

You can access some of the villas of Ephesus with a supplementary entrance ticket. Entrance to the Terraced Houses is well worthwhile. I found the paintings to be incredibly well preserved—comparable to those in Italy’s Pompeii.

Additional Things to Do in Selçuk Turkey

The Ephesus ruins are, undoubtedly, Selçuk’s main tourist draw. They are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and among the most beautiful ancient archaeological sites in the Mediterranean.

While you’re in the area, however, you’d be remiss to skip over some of the other great attractions nearby.

The Basilica of St John

The Basilica of St. John, a must-see Selçuk attraction, was built during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. The ruins lie above what was believed to be St. John the Apostle’s burial chamber. When first constructed, the structure was a simple mausoleum-like building that also served as a church. Then, during the reign of Emperor Justinian (527 -565 AD) it transformed into a marvelous basilica.

You can easily access the basilica on foot from downtown Selçuk. Just a stone’s throw away, you’ll find the Selçuk Citadel and Isa Bey Mosque.

Selçuk Citadel

The fortress of Selçuk bears an active history that dates back to the Ottoman period. It lies at the top of Ayalusuk Hill, overlooking the remnants of the Temple of St John.

The citadel of Selçuk encompasses several important structures, including a royal palace, water cisterns, a small mosque and residential houses for notable people.

You can access the fortress as part of your ticket to the Basilica of St John in Selçuk.

Isa Bey Mosque

The Isa Bey Mosque is a prime example of Seljukian architecture in Turkey. Built by a Syrian architect in honor of Aydinid Isa Bey, it was modeled after the Grand Mosque of Damascus. In subsequent centuries, the Seljuks also used the mosque as a Silk Road caravanserai.

When we visited Selçuk, we found that much of it was under construction, including its minaret.

The Temple of Artemis

Not much remains of the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus. The legendary temple—one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World— was once a magnificent tribute to the goddess Artemis, protector of fertility and the hunt.

Built around 550 BC, the temple once featured over 120 marble columns, each standing 60 feet tall.

Today, only one pieced-together column still stands.

The Pyramids of Giza are the only remaining ancient wonder. Some wonders (the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the Colossus of Rhodes and the Statue of Zeus in Olympia) live on only in legend and history books. Others, like the Temple of Artemis, the Lighthouse of Alexandria, and the Mausoleum of Helicarnassus in Bodrum lie in ruined fragments.

Based on what remains today, it is nearly impossible stand in front of the Temple of Artemis’ scattered stones and imagine the ancient wonder in all its grandeur. It makes you realize the importance of preserving sites like Ephesus for future generations.

Sirince Town

Just down the road from Selçuk, you’ll find a quaint village nestled in rolling hills. The wonderful little village of Sirince reminded me architecturally of Berat in Albania, with its white, window-filled houses.

Sirince was once called Cirkince (ugly). The name was specially chose to deceive people from moving to the village. But the quaint hillside town is anything but ugly.

As you walk down the streets of Sirince, you’ll find tons of wine shops, souvenir kiosks, quaint cobbled lanes, and historical Ottoman homes.

Early christians founded Sirince in the first century AD. The village stayed as a Greek Orthodox settlement until the exchange agreement between Republic of Turkey and Greece in 1924.

House of the Virgin Mary

The House of the Virgin Mary was discovered in the 19th century, based on alleged descriptions by the Roman Catholic nun and visionary, Anne Catherine Emmerich.

While the Catholic Church never confirmed the authenticity of the house, the site has nevertheless become a tourism magnet for religious devotees. Pilgrims flock to the house based on the belief that Mary, the mother of Jesus, lived out her final days within its walls.

In all honesty, at 14 euros per person, we found the House of the Virgin Mary to be overpriced. Perhaps people traveling to the location for pilgrimage reasons would feel otherwise.

Where to Stay near Ephesus

Ephesus Tours

We navigated Ephesus and its surroundings easily with a rental car. Having a car gave us the flexibility of visiting Selçuk’s towns and monuments at our own pace.

If you do not have access to your own means of transport, you can rely on tours, taxis or minibuses for getting around. A private tour that includes Ephesus and the House of Mary is both affordable and convenient. For a deeper look at the area’s religious sites, a biblical tour of Ephesus brings you to the world-class ruins, the Temple of St John, and the House of the Virgin Mary.

You’ll also find half day tours of Ephesus that cater to cruise ship tourists arriving in Kuşadası Port.

****

Ephesus’ remarkably preserved ruins—from the majestic Library of Celsus to the opulent villas and remnants of early Christian history—offer visitors a glimpse into the once-great city.

As one of the most iconic archaeological sites on Earth, Ephesus continues to stand as a testament to the enduring legacy of Greco-Roman civilization.

In the present day, only 20% of the site has been uncovered.

Who knows what other cultural and historical riches will be unearthed in future excavations.

The post Guide to Ephesus Turkey and its Surroundings appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Imagine glistening, chalk-white terraces cascading down a hillside. Pools of ice-blue water that reflect the Anatolian sunset. Ancient ruins overlooking thermal waters that have been used for centuries. These are the travertines of Pamukkale, Turkey—one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Middle East.

You’ve likely seen pictures of these natural wonders: a breathtaking blend of nature’s beauty and human ingenuity.

But, as with every destination that skyrockets in popularity, discussions have now turned to Pamukkale being overrated and overhyped. Are the glistening travertines as beautiful as social media promises? Is Pamukkale worth going out of your way to see?

Pamukkale Turkey: The Cotton Castle

Pamukkale means “cotton castle” in Turkish. The geological formation consists of a series of white terraced pools that tumble down a hillside.

These gleaming white calcite terraces, filled with warm mineral-rich waters, have been revered throughout history, from the Roman period until today.

Just above the terraces lies Hierapolis, once a Roman and Byzantine spa city, which has ancient ruins that include a beautifully preserved amphitheater.

In the present day, Pamukkale is an UNESCO World Heritage site. You can visit both its ruins and thermal pools on a single ticket.

It is one of the most visited destinations in Turkey, alongside Istanbul and Cappadocia.

The Travertines of Pamukkale Turkey

As calcium carbonate-saturated water reaches the surface, carbon dioxide escapes, leaving behind soft calcium carbonate that eventually crystallizes into travertine.

Pamukkale’s current hydrothermal system and mineral formations were likely established following the Laodikeia earthquake in the seventh century.

Hieropolis Ruins in Pamukkale

For many travelers, the Hieropolis ruins are a secondary reason for visiting Pamukkale.

Situated just above the terraces, these ruins are some of the best-preserved in Turkey. While Ephesus might hold the title for grandeur, Hierapolis should not be overlooked.

Founded as a thermal spa in 190 BC, the city was likely named for Hiero, wife of the founder of the Pergamon Kingdom.

• The Ancient Roman Theater

The ancient theater is the centerpiece of the Hieropolis ruins. The theatre dates back to the second century AD under Roman Emperor Hadrian. It was later renovated under Septimus Severus and adorned with elaborate limestone and marble carvings. The ancient theater at Pamukkale contains one of Anatolia’s most complete and best-preserved collection of Greco-Roman theatre decorations.

At its peak, the Hieropolis theater would have had a seating capacity of over 10,000 people.

Excavation of the theater began in 1957 by a group of Italian archaeologists. By 1988, the Hierapolis gained recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From 2009-2013, the Italian Archaeological Mission undertook an extensive restoration of the theater, with funding from the Turkish Ministry of Culture.

• The Necropolis

The Hieropolis Necropolis is one of the largest ancient cemeteries in Anatolia. It contains over 1,2000 tombs with a wide variety of burial types—including sarcophagi, stone graves, and mausoleums reflecting different cultural influences over the centuries.

• Plutonian Devil’s Gate

A sacred cave, once believed to be a gateway to the underworld, lies next to the Temple of Apollo. This ancient site was dedicated to the Roman god Pluto, the god of the underworld. The Plutonium was considered a gateway to the underworld due to the presence of toxic gases that surfaced from a deep chasm.

The Plutonium’s entrance has been sealed for safety, but the hissing of deadly gases is still audible.

• Cleopatra’s Antique Pool

The Antique Pool, often referred to as Cleopatra’s Pool, is a unique attraction within the ruins of Hierapolis. This ancient swimming pool is filled with thermal waters and adorned with submerged ancient columns and marble fragments. Legend has it that Cleopatra herself swam in the pool’s healing waters.

The pool is open from 8am to 5pm and entrance to the pool requires an additional fee. We didn’t have time for a proper soak during our visit to Pamukkale, so we decided to forego the experience altogether.

• Pamukkale Archaeology Museum

Housed in former Roman baths, the Pamukkale Archaeology Museum showcases spectacular sarcophagi from Hieropolis and the nearby archaeological site of Laodicea.

Ticket prices for Pamukkale and the Hieropolis include museum entry.

Does Pamukkale Live Up to the Hype?

The photos I have taken of Pamukkale are 100% unfiltered and unedited.

That being said, it is worth noting that there are only certain sections of Pamukkale that look the way they do in my pictures. Before my visit, I’d heard a lot of mixed reviews surrounding Pamukkale . A friend of mine had called Pamukkale one of the most disappointing destinations in all her travels. Online, I saw plenty of debates about expectations vs. reality.

Once upon a time, the calcium-rich water used to pour freely over all the travertines. However, those photos of hundreds of blue water pools that tumble down the cloud-like fortress of calcite, were from decades ago.

In recent years, much of Pamukkale’s water has been diverted to help sustain the growing population of nearby towns.

Now, the crystal pools only cover a small section of the cotton castle.

So does Pamukkale live up to the hype? Or is it yet another place that has been ravaged by tourism and overdevelopment.

My verdict is this: Pamukkale is a beautiful place to visit, as long as you manage your expectations. The site is still beautiful, just not as pristine as the social media images suggest.

Where to Stay in Pamukkale Turkey

Most visitors to Pamukkale stay in Denizli, unless visiting on a day trip. We stayed at the simple but convenient Mustafa Hotel in Denizli for one night during our visit to Pamukkale. The hotel was conveniently located, affordably priced, and fit our needs since all we wanted was a place to rest our heads. It had a nice view of the travertines, but was nothing fancy.

If you’re looking for more comfort, the Pamukkale Sahin Boutique Hotel (midrange) or the Pamukkale Whitehaven Suite Hotel (high-end) offer better options.

Pamukkale Tours

Pamukkale Turkey is easy to visit independently, but there are plenty of guided tour options for travelers who want to avoid the logistics of DIY travel. You can join guided day trips of the archaeological site from nearby towns, or multi-day group excursions from Turkey’s major cities.

Hot air balloon tours above Pamukkale provide a different vantage point of the UNESCO site. We chose to forego a Pamukkale hot air balloon ride since we had already done a balloon tour in Cappadocia a few days prior.

Best Time to Visit Pamukkale Turkey

Spring and Fall are the best times to visit Pamukkale. The shoulder seasons bring thinner crowds and cooler temperatures. Summer in Central Turkey can be scorching hot and crowded, while winter often sees snow.

Pamukkale Sunrise

In Pamukkale, sunrise brings pastel hues, fewer tourists, and a smattering of hot air balloons above the travertines.

The south entrance of Pamukkale opens at 6:30am, while the north entrance opens at 8am. By getting up early, you can avoid most large tour groups and enjoy the Cotton Castle in relative quiet.

I’ve read in a few places, however, that the pools tend to be emptier in the morning since water gets pumped into the site throughout the day.

Pamukkale Sunset

We chose to visit Pamukkale at sunset—partly because that is what worked best for our schedule, and partly because we wanted to see the sky’s colors reflected on the calcite pools.

Sunset has the best lighting for photography in Pamukkale , as the sun sets directly across from the pools.

Unfortunately, sunset also tends to be when Pamukkale is at its most crowded, since water levels and lighting converge to create the optimal viewing experience.

****

I’m thankful to have visited many destinations around the world before they were “discovered” by mass tourism.

Unfortunately, I got to Pamukkale too late for the party.

Pamukkale is one of Turkey’s most famous tourist destinations. Thousands of people flock to the Cotton Castle annually in order to soak in the picturesque calcite pools.

As a result of overtourism in Pamukkale, the area doesn’t quite look like it used to.

But I still think that, long as you adjust your expectations, Pamukkale remains an unforgettable place to visit.

The post Visiting Pamukkale in Turkey appeared first on Erika's Travels .

At first glance, Konya doesn’t appear to be one of Turkey’s major heavy-hitting tourist destinations. Travelers often overlook the conservative university town in favor of Istanbul, Cappadocia, and Ephesus.

Most of those who step foot in Konya are either pilgrims flocking to Rumi’s tomb, or tourists crossing central Turkey overland.

But if you’re interested in the cultural aspects of Turkey—in particular sufism and the mystical side of Islam—Konya is the place to be.

Konya Turkey: An Overview

Konya is a place that I would have loved to explore more fully. My family and I visited the city for one day in order to attend the famous Whirling Dervish ceremony at the Mevlana Cultural Center. The visit satisfied our desire to see the famous Sufi meditation, but it also left us wishing we would have been able to explore the less touristy sides of Turkey’s religious capital.

Konya is more conservative than the other places we visited in Turkey. I found it to be quite affordable too, with food costing only a fraction of what it did in the country’s more popular tourist zones.

Famous for its association with Sufism and the Whirling Dervishes, the city attracts both religious pilgrims and travelers seeking to connect with Turkey’s spiritual roots.

Its most important site is the Mevlana complex, a museum that houses the tomb of the Islamic poet, Rumi (also known as Mevlana).

Within walking distance of the complex, you’ll find a large square, noteworthy mosques, and the city’s historic bazaar.

Who Was Mevlana?

Jalaluddin Muhammad Balkhi Rumi was a 13th-century Persian poet and Islamic scholar associated with Sufism. 

Rumi’s works greatly influenced literature and thought throughout the Muslim world. His works also found a wide audience in the Indian Subcontinent. By the end of the 20th century, Rumi’s poetry achieved circulation in western Europe and the United States.

Rumi delved into Islam’s mystical side after a brief but intense relationship with Persian mystic Shams Tabrizi. Tabrizi, a traveling merchant and Rumi’s spiritual guide, is heavily featured in Rumi’s poems and teachings. His message of love and religious tolerance is universal. It transcends generations and international borders.

Upon his death, Rumi’s followers founded the Mevlevi Order. The order has since become synonymous with the Whirling Dervishes and Sema ceremony.

The Sema (Listening) Ceremony

The Mevlevis, also known as the “Whirling Dervishes,” are famous for their practice of dhikr—a ritual that consists of twirling around and around in a meditative state. Groups of devotees spin hypnotically while chanting “Allah” with every 360-degree rotation.

The whirling is part of the formal Sema ceremony. Sufi Dervishes believe that the act of spinning in a trance-like state helps people cleanse their souls, eliminate bad habits, and express their love for God. It is a mesmerizing ritual to witness.

The Whirling Dervish ceremony is what most people imagine when they think of Sufism. It is nothing like the Sufi ceremony that Dan and I saw in Sudan a few years prior.

The Sema ceremony includes music, singing, poetry recitals, and prayer. During the ceremony, dancers first appear wearing black cloaks that symbolize death. As the ceremony progresses, they discard these outer garments and reveal white robes, an emblem of resurrection. On their heads they wear conical brown felt hats which are meant to resemble tombstones (representing the death of the ego).

The twirling is a form of spiritual meditation that has become a cultural attraction. The ceremony is on Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.

Sufism in Turkey

Sufis strive to attain perfection of worship through focusing on spirituality, asceticism, meditation and reflection. Tending to be apolitical and moderate, Sufis are concerned more with inward spiritual change than with external manifestations. Sufism isn’t exactly a type of Islam, but rather a way of understanding it.

Many Sufi orders took root in Turkey over the centuries.The practice has raised suspicion among dictatorial governments and been shunned by religious fundamentalists.

In 1925, the Ottomans outlawed Sufism as part of secular reforms, but the movement’s deep roots enabled it to thrive underground.

Today, despite being officially banned, Sufism flourishes. It is not difficult to find Whirling Dervish performances throughout Turkey, especially in Konya.

Where to See the Whirling Dervishes in Konya

Konya is the best place in Turkey to see the Whirling Dervishes. If you’re able to plan your visit for Saturday, you’ll be able to witness the performance at the Mevlana Cultural Center (arguably the top place to see the Whirling Dervishes in Turkey).

• The Mevlana Cultural Center

Performances occur every Saturday evening at the Mevlana Cultural Center. We were lucky enough to be able to work our itinerary around the weekly ritual.

The performance costs around $2 per spectator. There was plenty of seating available when we visited and we had no problem buying tickets at the door.

• Mevlana Museum Garden

The Mevlana Museum garden holds Whirling Dervish performances every Thursday throughout the summer. I suggest you double check the date and times, as I’m unsure of the schedule’s consistency.

The Mevlana Museum

For Muslims and non-Muslims alike, the Mevlana Museum remains Konya’s #1 tourist draw. The building’s tiled turquoise dome is one of Turkey’s most iconic sights.

The complex dates back to 1273. It became a museum in 1926.

The museum houses the former lodge of the whirling dervishes and is home to Rumi’s tomb.

More than 1.5 million (mostly Turkish) tourists visit Rumi’s tomb every year.

Other Things to Do in Konya

During our visit to Konya, we were surprised by the city’s appeal beyond its connection to Sufism.

I wish we could have spent more time strolling the streets and neighborhoods of Konya.

• The Konya Bazaar

Konya’s small bazaar neighborhood stretches from Mevlana Meydanı. It is a picturesque area, that bustles with ice cream shops, spice vendors, textile stores, and jewelers.

The Konya marketplace is nothing like the overwhelming and overstimulating Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, but it is nonetheless a pleasant place to wander.

• Konya Tropical Butterfly Garden

We would have loved to take Elio to the Konya Butterfly Garden, but we had plans to continue onward to Pamukkale after our brief stay in Konya. The garden houses over 20,000 butterflies from around the world and offers a great complement to the city’s glut of historical attractions. Especially when you have kids in tow.

Where to Stay in Konya

We stayed at the ideally-located Sufi Homes during our stay in Konya. The small colorful hotel was a comfortable and convenient budget option located within two blocks of the main square and Mevlana Museum.

Nearby, the THINK Hotel is a budget option with quirky decor, free parking and a central location.

For a midrange accommodation option, the Konya Dervish Hotel boasts a garden, clean rooms, and exceptional reviews.

If you prefer booking at a known entity, Konya’s Hilton Garden Inn is a safe bet.

Whirling Dervishes in Istanbul

Konya may be synonymous with Sufism, but it is by no means the only place in Turkey where you can see the Whirling Dervishes. There are plenty of performance venues in Istanbul too—some more authentic and some that are complete tourist traps—for travelers who can’t fit central Turkey into their travel plans.

• Galata Mevlevi Museum

The Galata Mevlevi Museum is undoubtedly the most famous Whirling Dervish hall in Istanbul. It is located on Galipdede Caddesi, near the end of Istiklal Street. The ceremony takes place every Sunday at 17:00. You can only buy tickets on location starting at noon on Saturday.

Photography of the ceremony is not allowed.

• Hodjapasha Dance Theater

The Hodjapasha Dance Theater is a very popular venue located within walking distance of the Sirkeci train station, in a converted 15th-century Turkish bath.

Performances take place daily at 19:00.

*****

A typical Turkey itinerary will likely take you to Istanbul, Cappadocia and Ephesus. With a little more time, you might consider Pamukkale or a destination along the famed Turquoise Coast.

Konya often manages to fall somewhere down the list of places to see, despite being a popular Muslim pilgrimage site.

For me and my family, Konya was not merely a pitstop en route to Pamukkale, however. It was also a reminder of Turkey’s historical richness and a window into the country’s religious heart.

The post Konya Turkey: City of the Whirling Dervishes appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Cappadocia Turkey is a whimsical fairytale destination like no other.

The outstanding region sprawls out over the stark Anatolian plains. It is a one-of-a-kind open air museum that features weather-eroded valleys, lush river canyons, rock-hewn dwellings, underground cities, and painted churches.

With its otherworldly geology and deep-rooted history, the area contains all the elements of a compelling travel destination.

Things to Do in Cappadocia in 3 Days

Cappadocia’s Unesco-recognized landscape is incredibly popular with tourists. The area reminded me of a mix between Santorini and Matera—with its hoards of Instagrammers, rich history, fancy boutique hotels, trogdolyte dwellings, and tourist-local ratio.

The bulk of Cappadocia’s attractions are located within a triangle-shaped area that lies between Ürgüp, Avanos, and Uchisar.

With three days in Cappadocia, however, you’ll be able to explore beyond the area’s ultra-concentrated tourist core and visit some of central Turkey’s unforgettable highlights—including the lush Ihlara Valley and oft-forgotten Soğanlı Valley.

Cappadocia Itinerary Day 1

Our first day in Cappadocia roughly followed the Cappadocia Green Tour itinerary. Most Green tour routes include Derinkuyu, but we chose to visit the subterranean city on day three instead.

Our Cappadocia itinerary began just west of Göreme in the town of Uchisar, before heading to the more far-flung attractions of Selime and Ihlara.

• Cappadocia Sunrise

As the sun begins to peek over the horizon, Cappadocia Turkey is at its most magical.

In Cappadocia, early risers are rewarded with the area’s most photographed sight: hundreds of balloons filling the pastel sky above the fairy chimneys.

I’m not usually one to focus on lodging during my travels, but splurging for a balcony in Cappadocia is well worthwhile.

We stayed at the Century Cave Hotel in Göreme and loved everything about our stay.

• The Uchisar Castle

Uchisar lies just west of Göreme. The town is a popular place to stay in Cappadocia due to its central location and intriguing caves.

Visible from miles around, the Uchisar Castle juts out of the surrounding landscape in a gnarled knob of caves and tunnels. The castle was used for centuries by villagers as a place of refuge when enemy armies overtook the surrounding plains.

Despite its name, you won’t find a typical stone and mortar castle at Uchisar.

Instead, the skyscraper-like mass of carved stone soars above its surroundings like a pockmarked monolith. The town of Uchisar spills down the mountainside from the rock outcrop.

The Uchisar Castle affords sweeping views of Cappadocia’s valleys from above. If you choose to skip a hot air balloon flight over the region, the rock outcrop provides your next best opportunity for aerial panoramas.

The lower reaches of Uchisar are fascinating too. You’ll find photogenic carved rock spires that resemble giant-sized gnome dwellings. Some remain abandoned, while others house gift shops or restaurants.

We spent some time wandering around the dovecotes (pigeon houses) that have been carved into the area’s hoodoos. By enticing wild pigeons with food and a safe place to roost, these houses also attracted pigeon waste, which could then be used as fertilizer.

From Uchisar, you can walk to Göreme via the Pigeon Valley—a popular route that passes by rock-hewn churches, dovecotes, and abandoned cave homes.

• Selime Cathedral

Selime is home to the largest church in Cappadocia and one of the area’s most intact collections of troglodyte dwellings. The complex is set high on a cliff face, with commanding views of the valleys and rock-hewn hoodoos below. 

Sometimes skipped because to its out-of-the-way location, Selime is well worth visiting en-route to the Ihlara Valley.  The multi-level Byzantine settlement includes livestock stalls, living quarters, kitchens, cavernous halls, and a basilica church boasting original frescoes.

Selime Monastery dates back to the 900s. Over the centuries, different inhabitants of central Anatolia have called the area home—including the Hittites, Assyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans.

• Ihlara Valley

The Ihlara Valley is one of the best hiking destinations in Cappadocia. It features a tree-lined riverbank, steep canyon walls, and rock-hewn churches with vibrant frescoes.

There are four established  settlements in the Ihlara Valley. Ihlara town at the southern end, Belisirma in the middle, and Yaprakhisar and Selime at the northern end.

The Ihlara Valley hike is 13km one way. Many hikers choose to organize drop-off and pickup with a driver in order to avoid the roundtrip journey.

The gentle Ihlara Valley hike follows a shaded path along a tree-lined river. Even ignoring the cultural significance of our surroundings, we enjoyed the area’s natural setting. Birds chirped overhead, while leafy trees provided respite from the harsh Anatolian sun.

The Ihlara Valley is beautiful, but the area’s true highlights lie chiseled in the towering canyon walls.

Devout Byzantine monks fashioned cave churches in the walls of the valley. These churches—including the Snake Church and Church of St George—boast vivid frescoes that are among the most impressive in Cappadocia.

• Sunset Hill

Sunrise may be what Cappadocia is most known for, but sunset in the area is beautiful too.

You won’t see colorful balloons filling the skies at sunset, but you’ll nonetheless witness the way in which the setting sun paints the area’s fairy chimneys with varying shades of orange, pink, and red.

Located just behind the town of Göreme, you can reach the spot by climbing up Aydin Kiragi Street. A path along the ridgeline showcases panoramas of the town and its surroundings from above.

Cappadocia Itinerary Day 2

Our second day in Cappadocia included the main attractions that lie at the heart of Cappadocia.

If you only have one day in Cappadocia, I recommend focusing on the sites and activities listed below.

• Hot Air Balloon

Cappadocia is incredible from ground level, but soaring above its rock spires and hoodoos offers an entirely different perspective of the fairytale wonderland.

Hot air balloons are a central part of the Cappadocia experience. The area ranks among the world’s most famous hot air balloon destinations. Other noteworthy ballooning destinations include the Sarengeti in Tanzania, Bagan in Myanmar, the Valley of the Kings in Egypt, and Teotihuacan in Mexico.

Despite its hefty price tag, riding in a hot air balloon was near the top of my Cappadocia bucket list. I’d previously ridden in a balloon over the Valley of the Kings in Luxor Egypt. The experience was so magical that I didn’t think twice about booking a tour in Cappadocia.

Hot air balloon tours of Cappadocia begin in the wee hours of the morning. Our tour picked us up at our hotel at 5am.

By 5:30, we were watching as our crew filled our balloon and prepared to launch us into the sky. Shortly after, we were soaring above the fairy chimneys, as our pilot expertly navigated the balloons between rocky outcrops.

From our basket, we had great views of the surreal landscape framed against the sunrise. It was a trip that managed to be both thrilling and serene.

If you’re spending three days in Cappadocia, I recommend booking your hot air balloon tour on days one or two. Try to avoid waiting till the last opportunity, in case of weather cancellations.

• Love Valley

If you love hiking, then you’ll have no shortage of places to explore in Cappadocia.

In Love Valley, the name leaves little to the imagination. The hoodoos in Love Valley are some of the most recognizable in the area. They jut out of the ground like enormous phalluses pointing into the sky.

When we plugged “Love Valley” into Google Maps, we found ourselves at a viewpoint that boasts unencumbered aerial panoramas of the valley and its surroundings. You can walk along the lookout’s ridgetop, but there is no way to access the valley floor from the parking area.

To hike amidst the penis-shaped rocks, you’ll have to find the Love Valley trailhead, located about 2km from the lookout point.

• Çavuşin

The village of Çavuşin is a prominent stop along the road that connects Göreme with Avanos.

Çavuşin once housed a large Orthodox Christian population, before the Greece-Turkey population exchange in 1923 essentially cleansed the area of its residents. The population exchange in Çavuşin saw a large exodus from town, while a relatively small population of immigrants moved in. Houses in the area began to fall into disrepair, exacerbated by a landslide in 1950 that forced the evacuation of the village’s remaining residents.

Çavuşin Village boasts houses that are carved into the surrounding rock formations. These structures have been shaped and eroded by natural elements like rain, wind, and earthquakes.

To reach the top of the village, visitors can follow a winding path that affords breathtaking views of Red Valley and Uchisar Castle. At the village’s highest point, you’ll find a 5th century church that is among the oldest in Cappadocia.

• Zelve Open Air Museum

The Zelve Open Air Museum is probably the top Cappadocia attraction that we omitted from our itinerary. The Zelve Valley was the earliest-settled and last-abandoned monastic valley in Cappadocia.

Zelve’s churches are not as plentiful or as impressive as those at the more famous Göreme Open Air Museum, but the historical site is a slightly less crowded alternative.

We skipped the Zelve Open Air Museum due to poor planning.

However, if you’re hoping to check out all the top Cappadocia attractions, you can certainly squeeze the Zelve Valley into your day 2 itinerary.

• Imagination/Devrent Valley

Devrent Valley, als known as Imagination Valley, lies between Avanos and Ürgüp. Full of unique rock formations, it is easily-accessible valley is worth stopping by—whether for a quick photo opportunity, or for a longer hike in the area.

Most travelers stop by the Devrent Valley in order to get photos of the balancing rock spires that vaguely resemble a camel.

We stopped by for a quick photo op and quickly realized that the area deserves more than a passing glance.

There is no public transportation between Cappadocia’s cities and the Devrent Valley, but tour buses frequently stop in the area.

• Rose and Red Valleys

The Rose Valley offers some of the best hiking experiences in Cappadocia.

Hiking routes take you past trogdolyte dwellings, around hoodoos and rock spires, and to beautifully preserved churches.

If you have time, you can also continue on into the Red Valley.

The Rose and Red Valley hikes are one way, which can make them logistically challenging if you have your own transport or limited time.

Hiking the Red Valley around sunset will showcase the area’s vibrant hues.

• Ürgüp Turkey

Ürgüp is one of the larger towns in the Cappadocia region. Only fifteen minutes from Göreme and smack in the middle of Cappadocia’s attractions, it is a fine base from which to explore the region. Ürgüp is home to a smattering of boutique hotels, some cave dwellings, and a lively central core.

Ürgüp feels more local than some of the Cappadocia’s other population centers. While hotels and guesthouses seemed to outnumber local residences in Göreme and Uchisar, Ürgüp still felt like an inhabited Turkish town.

• The Three Beauties

The Three Beauties—a collection of rock-capped fairy chimneys overlooking a sweeping valley—comprise Ürgüp’s most famous landmark.

One of the most important symbols of Cappadocia, the fairy chimney cluster of two adults and a child takes its name from local legend.

According to lore, a young princess fell in love with a shepherd. Despite her father’s disapproval, the princess married the shepherd anyway, and had his child.

The angry king set out for revenge. Realizing that her family would die, the princess made a plea to Allah for salvation. Allah accepted this prayer and turned the princess, the shepherd, and their child into stone.

Cappadocia Itinerary Day 3

With our third day in Cappadocia, we hit some of the area’s most renowned attractions, as well as one of its most off-the-beaten-path gems.

We started at the fascinating underground city of Derinkuyu, before escaping the crowds in the Soğanlı Valley.

Finally, we stopped by Ortahisar en-route to Cappadocia’s finest cluster of cave churches.

• Derinkuyu or Kaymakli

There are two main underground cities in Cappadocia: Derinkuyu and Kaymakli.

Derinkuyu is the largest subterranean city in Cappadocia, and the one we visited on our trip. Its passages date back to the the 7th century BC, though they fully formed in the Byzantine era.

During the Arab-Byzantine wars (780-1180AD) the underground city was used as protection from Arab Muslims. 

At its peak, Derinkuyu was large enough to house 20,000 people.

A 9km-long underground tunnel once linked Derinkuyu and Kaymakli.

Today, however, you won’t be able to travel underground between the cities, and each requires a separate fee to enter.

• Soğanlı Valley

The Soğanlı Valley lies about 30 minutes south of Ürgüp. It is an offbeat gem and one of my favorite places to visit in Cappadocia.

Soğanlı is a remote valley with courtyard monasteries and cave churches from the 10th and 11th centuries.

The Soğanlı Valley was the most surprising place we visited during our three days in Cappadocia.

We had high expectations when visiting the area’s more popular tourist destinations.

But for the Soğanlı Valley, we had no expectations.

The area blew us away.

• Ortahisar Turkey

Ortahisar is a Cappadocian town that surrounds an iconic rock castle. It resembles Uchisar in many ways, but receives far fewer visitors.

We didn’t climb to the top of the Ortahisar Castle since we still wanted to ensure we had ample time to visit the Göreme Open Air Museum.

Nonetheless, we found that soaking in the views of Ortahisar’s iconic rock outcrop was worth the small detour.

• Göreme Open Air Museum

The Göreme Open Air Museum contains the most renowned cluster of rock-hewn churches in Cappadocia. Consequently, it is also the most crowded. The splendid grouping of monastic Byzantine churches and chapels lies just outside of the Göreme city center. It is the crown jewel of Cappadocia’s Christian heritage.

Göreme has a particularly high concentration of painted cave churches. The churches in the open air museum are adorned with beautiful frescoes. The highlight of the open air musuem is the Dark Church (Karanlık Kilise), with its particularly stunning interior.

You’ll have to pay an additional fee to access the Dark Church. Photos are not allowed.

Where to Stay in Cappadocia

Though I won’t deny the appeal of staying in a nice hotel, I’m not generally one to prioritize accommodations in my travels.

But Cappadocia is different.

There’s something special about staying in a cave hotel with terrace views. The ability to watch Cappadocia’s famous sunrise from a balcony is worth the splurge.

We stayed at the Century Cave Hotel during our trip to Cappadocia. The hotel’s convenient location, balcony views, delicious buffet breakfast, and wonderful staff truly helped make our sojourn memorable.

If a cheap price is what you’re after, My Home Cappadocia Stone House Hostel fits the bill for being clean, convenient, and affordable.

For a step up in comfort, the Chelebi Cave House Hotel and Lunar Cappadocia Hotel receive excellent ratings.

Cappadocia Tours

Tours are a popular way of visiting Cappadocia due to the area’s lack of public transportation. Popular routes include the red and green tours.

• The Red Tour

The red tour in Cappadocia is a favorite option for visitors who only have one day in the area. Though each tour on the red route differs slightly, most offer a combination of the Göreme Open Air Museum, Love Valley, and Uchisar.

• The Green Tour

The green tour usually covers one of the underground cities, the Ihlara Valley, and Selime. It is a fantastic option to combine with the red tour if you only have two days in Cappadocia.

How Many Days Should You Spend in Cappadocia?

With limited time, you’ll be able to get a good taste of the area in two days. We spent three days in Cappadocia and found our allotted time to be perfect.

Of course, an extra day would have allowed us to add a few more hikes and valleys to our itinerary.

But considering we still wanted to squeeze Istanbul, Konya, Pamukkale, Ephesus and Bodrum into our itinerary, we left after three.

With 1 Day in Cappadocia

With only one day in Cappadocia, I’d focus on the second day of my three day itinerary. You can start the day with a hot air balloon ride over the fairy chimneys and then pack in the Göreme Open Air Museum, Love Valley, and Uchisar.

With 2 Days in Cappadocia

With two days in Cappadocia, I’d follow the above itinerary for day one. For your second day, you could choose either the Ihlara Valley or Soğanlı Valley in conjunction with one of the underground cities.

With More than 3 Days in Cappadocia

If you have more than three days in Cappadocia, you’ll have time to do most of the area’s top activities. Had I had more time in central Turkey, I would have chosen to do some more hiking in the area.

Best Time to Visit Cappadocia

The best time to visit Cappadocia is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) months when the weather is pleasant and the region is less crowded. The weather during these periods is ideal for outdoor activities such as hot air ballooning and hiking.

During our visit to Turkey in September, we had near-perfect weather.

Getting to Cappadocia Turkey

Due to its location within the heart of Anatolia, most travelers reach Cappadocia by bus or plane. Note that there are two main airports near Cappadocia: Kayseri and Nevşehir.

Nevşehir is the closer airport to Cappadocia’s main attractions and the preferred option if you want to limit travel time.

However, you’ll likely have more choice in and out of Kayseri in terms of flight times and prices.

Getting Around Cappadocia Turkey

The best way to get around Cappadocia is either by renting a car or by hiring a private driver. Public transport is not a viable option in Cappadocia, as sites are often far apart and poorly connected.

Tours are another popular option if you are traveling solo or do not wish to rent a car.

****

Cappadocia is a true gem. For lovers of nature and history, there are few places around the world that can compare.

The area had been on my bucket list for a long time before I got a chance to visit.

And when I finally set foot among its whimsical hoodoos and painted cave monasteries, the fairytale wonderland did not disappoint.

The post 3 Days in Cappadocia Turkey: An Itinerary appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Istanbul is one of the world’s great cities. Historically known as Byzantium and then Constantinople, Istanbul straddles two continents and embraces multiple worlds—both geographically and culturally.

The city is vibrant and cosmopolitan, and teeming with humanity. Minarets stud the sky, crowning Istanbul’s hilltops. Boats glide gently down the Bosphorus, while pigeons flock overhead. Exotic spice markets burst with color. Neighborhoods hold traces of the different empires that once laid claim to the Golden Horn.  It’s the kind of place where the push and pull of modernity and tradition collide.

The type of place in which you’ll never run out of things to see and do.

Top Incredible Istanbul Attractions

Istanbul knocked our socks off from the moment we began exploring. Within its fabric, the iconic city blends culture and architecture from different historical periods.

In the West, Istanbul flies somewhat under the radar. While its riches are plentiful and its sheer number of attractions overwhelming, the city is not a mainstream tourist destination. I couldn’t believe life had taken me to 100+ countries before I finally stepped foot in the sprawling Turkish metropolis.

We spent five days in Istanbul during our trip to Turkey and could have easily extended our stay.

I’ve broken this post up into three sections: things to see in the Old City (Sultanahmet), things to see in the New City, and additional attractions beyond the two main tourist zones.

If you only have one day in Istanbul, you’ll likely want to focus your itinerary on the world-renowned attractions that lie within Sultanahmet. With two or three days, you can incorporate the sites north of the Golden Horn. With four or more days, you’ll have time to include some of the neighborhoods outside of Istanbul’s tourist core.

Things to See in Old Town (Sultanhamet)

Old Town showcases Istanbul’s glorious past. It is filled to the brim with mosques, palaces, churches and houses dating back to the Byzantine and Ottoman periods.

Many of Istanbul’s iconic attractions lie scattered about Sultanahmet. Positioned within easy walking distance of one another, their proximity makes them easy to visit in close succession.

• The Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sofia—Istanbul’s most enduring symbol—is one of the world’s great religious monuments.

The church-turned-mosque is an architectural marvel that has gone through significant transformations throughout its history.

The structure that stands today was built as a Christian church in the 6th century, under the Byzantine emperor Justinian I. It stands at the site of two previous churches and a Pagan temple.

The Hagia Sophia served as an Eastern Orthodox church until the Fourth Crusade in 1204 AD, when it became a Catholic church. Then, from 1261 until the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople, it once again changed hands to the Eastern Orthodox religion.

In subsequent centuries it became a mosque, a museum, and a mosque again.

The interior of the church beautifully blends Islamic and Christian influences. Chandeliers hang from the cavernous domed ceiling. Its interior has both Islamic inscriptions and lavish Christian mosaics.

The Hagia Sophia’s prayer hall is a significant feat of engineering. Its cavernous dome is supported by four pendentives that facilitate the distribution of its weight. The dome’s design became a prototype that inspired other Ottoman grand mosques.

Due to its popularity, you won’t be able to experience the Hagia Sophia in solitude. The mosque is a top Istanbul highlight that draws huge crowds.

If possible, try to visit the Hagia Sophia in the early morning to avoid long entrance lines.

• The Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque (officially named the Sultan Ahmed Mosque) is a stunning showcase of Islamic art and geometry.

The Blue Mosque is one of Istanbul’s most renowned and photogenic buildings. It is the brainchild of its namesake—Sultan Ahmed I—whose tomb is located on site.

The delicate artistry of the Blue Mosque left us awestruck. Blue İznik tiles adorn the interior, giving the mosque its unofficial name.

The Blue Mosque is second only to the Hagia Sophia in terms of popularity. While you won’t encounter the long lines and tourist throngs of the cathedral-turned-mosque next door, visiting the Blue Mosque early improves your chances of avoiding a sardine can experience.

• The Hippodrome

If you’re in Sultanahmet, it’ll be difficult to miss the Hippodrome of Constantinople—a large plaza that was once used as a public arena for ceremonies, chariot races, and gladiator games. The Hippodrome functioned throughout the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods.

Today, it is a public plaza, known as Sultanahmet Square. It lies adjacent to the Blue Mosque and only a few steps away from the iconic Hagia Sophia.

You’ll find little evidence of the Hippodrome’s past functionality when strolling its cobbled promenade, but the area is notable for some imported monuments. The square houses a Serpent Column from Delphi, an Obelisk of Thutmosis III from Aswan Egypt and a neo-Byzantine fountain from the German government.

• The Topkapı Palace

Though I’ve seen a number of royal palaces around the world, nothing quite prepared me for the splendor of Istanbul’s Topkapı Palace.

The royal palace served as the Ottoman Empire’s administrative, educational and artistic center for nearly four hundred years, from the 1460s until 1856.

The palace complex consists of four main courtyards and many smaller buildings adorned in ornate Islamic motifs. Female members of the Sultan’s family lived in the harem, which requires an additional (and worthwhile) entrance ticket.

The Topkapı Palace and its harem are top Istanbul highlights. Within the complex, you’ll find a treasury, a calligraphy room, a library, a kitchen, and pavilions.

We were glad we made it to the Topkapi Palace early, as the long line was seemingly growing by the minute. If you are hoping to save time, you can book guided tours of the Topkapı Palace with skip-the-line tickets.

Gulhane Park

Gülhane Park is among the oldest and largest parks in Istanbul. For centuries—until 1912—the park served as the outer garden of the Topkapı Palace and was not open to the public.

The park’s name, Gülhane, translates to “House of Roses.” In spring and summer, more than 80,000 blooming roses add color to the surrounding greenery.

Gulhane Park is the perfect place to enjoy an afternoon rest amidst a hectic day of sightseeing.

While we sat in the shade of an oak tree and let Elio play in the grass, I took the time to observe my surroundings. The park showcases a broad cross-section of Turkish society. I saw groups of friends catching up, lovers strolling arm in arm, young families picnicking on the grass, and tourists with camera in tow.

• The Basilica Cistern

The Basilica Cistern in Sultanahmet lies underground, like a subterranean cathedral. The place is equal parts impressive and spooky. Its slightly creepy lighting gives this underground water system—built by the Byzantines in the sixth century—an other-worldly atmosphere.

Emperor Justinian commissioned the cistern in 532. The largest surviving Byzantine cistern in Istanbul, it was constructed using 336 columns, many of which were salvaged from ruined temples.

The enlarged cistern provided a water filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople (a ruined imperial Byzantine complex that was once the center of administration in the area). It continued to provide water to the Topkapı Palace and its surrounding areas after the Ottoman conquest in 1453.

The cistern’s raised platforms weave through an infinity hall of columns, while artificial lighting basks the stonework in alternating shades and colors. Interspersed among the columns, you’ll see sculptures and art displays.

The basilica’s symmetry and sheer grandeur are breathtaking. Look out for columns with inscriptions and carvings.

Dan and I visited the cistern just before the 10pm closing time. As it turns out, visiting the cistern is a fantastic thing to do in Istanbul at night. When we visited, the lack of crowds (we were the only ones there) made the experience all the more surreal.

• Suleymaniye Mosque

The Suleymaniye Mosque sits atop one of Istanbul’s seven hills and commands impressive views over the Golden Horn. Commissioned by Suleyman the Magnificent in 1550, it is the largest Ottoman-era mosque in the city.

The Suleymaniye Mosque is part of a large religious complex that includes a hospital and madrassa. On its grounds, you’ll find a green grassy lawn, viewpoints over New Istanbul, and an enclosed cemetery with mausoleums of Suleyman the Magnificent and his wife.

The mosque courtyard is full of picnicking families. Elio loved running around the grass, while we enjoyed soaking in some of Istanbul’s best views.

• The Grand Bazaar

The exotic Grand Bazaar, Istanbul’s world-renowned historic marketplace, is a feast for the senses. It is one of the largest covered markets in the world, as well as one of the oldest. In fact, many consider the Grand Bazaar to be the world’s first shopping mall.

The bazaar has been an important trading center since 1461. It was a bustling market during Byzantine times, and grew even larger when the Ottomans arrived. At its prime, the Grand Bazaar was the center of trade for the entire Ottoman Empire.

The Grand Bazaar’s labyrinthine passageways contain some of Istanbul’s most photogenic nooks and crannies. Its 60 streets and 4,000 shops overflow with carpets, lamps, jewelry, and antiques.

Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped in clusters called “bedestens.” Traditionally, each bedesten of the bazaar had its own unique product. You’ll find sections full of tourist trinkets, and others selling jewelry, or leather, or carpets.

The merchants in the Grand Bazaar have a reputation for being aggressive. Maybe we got lucky, or maybe we just expected worse, but we didn’t find the shopkeepers to be pushy at all. The shopping experience was actually quite pleasant, and we even left the covered marketplace with a beautiful piece of calligraphy.

• The Spice Bazaar

The Spice Bazaar (known in Turkish as the Egyptian Bazaar) is one of Istanbul’s oldest markets.

While the Grand Bazaar may be the largest and most famous of Istanbul’s covered markets, this spice market wins the prize for being the most colorful, fragrant, and flavorful (free samples of tea and Turkish delight are plentiful).

While negotiating is usually expected in the Grand Bazaar, the spice bazaar has fixed prices for the most part. And the prices are really high.

Additional stalls with dried fruits and sweets spill out from the covered area and line the nearby streets. If you’re looking to do some shopping, it is worth checking out the stalls right outside of the historic marketplace. Prices there are much more affordable.

• Beyazit Square

As you make your way down the hill from the Grand Bazaar and Mosque of Suleymaniye, it’s worth passing by Beyazit Square. In Byzantine times, this square was called the Forum of Theodosius. Today, it is a lively plaza surrounded by the university and Beyazid II Mosque.

Both the university and tower are off limits to travelers.

But the tower is visible from the square, as is the ornate and beautiful grand entrance to the university.

• The New Mosque

Istanbul’s “New” Mosque—a 400 year old center of worship adjacent to the Spice Bazaar and Galata Bridge—is one of the city’s finest.

The mosque sits in Eminönü, a neighborhood that historically housed a large Jewish population. Construction of the mosque originally began in 1597, under the orders of Sultan Mehmed III’s wife, Safiye Sultan. In situating the mosque in Eminönü, she hoped to extend Islamic influence in the city.

When her husband died in 1603, Safiye Sultan abandoned the project. Construction didn’t resume until 1660. When the mosque was completed, it was renamed New Valide Sultan Mosque (aka New Mosque).

The mosque’s interior design reminded me quite a bit of the Blue Mosque, with its gold leaf, İznik tiles and carved marble.

You’ll probably walk by the New Mosque at some point, whether it is part of your original itinerary or not.

And if you do, it is worth stepping inside to admire its ornately decorated dome.

• Nuruosmaniye Baroque Mosque

Istanbul is home to more mosques than you’ll ever have time to visit.

But the Nuruosmaniye Mosque stood out to us for being different from the rest. Designed by a Greek non-Muslim architect named Simeon Kalfa, the Nuruosmaniye Mosque contains baroque and neoclassical elements from Europe.

The mosque dates back to 1749. It isn’t a popular tourist attraction, nor is it on many lists of things to see in Istanbul.

But if you’re not mosque’d out after visiting the city’s heavy hitters, I recommend stopping by Nurousmaniye and admiring its baroque-style exterior and interior.

The Column of Constantine—a Byzantine relic that dates back to 330AD—can be found in the plaza by the mosque.

• The Galata Bridge

The Galata Bridge spans the Bosphorus and connects some of the most popular districts in Old and New Istanbul.

The bridge carries a constant flow of pedestrians and buzzes with activity all throughout the day and night. Above, anglers line up with their fishing rods. Underneath, restaurants, cafes, and hookah bars serve drinks and food.

The present-day Galata Bridge replaced two other structures.

It isn’t the design of the bridge itself that is particularly noteworthy. Rather, it is the area’s entire ambiance—including the bustling cafes, the majestic views, the glistening water, and the swirling gulls.

Things to Do in the Istanbul New District

Situated on the European side of the city and across the bridge from Old Town, Beyoğlu is one of Istanbul’s most vibrant and cosmopolitan districts. It covers an area from Karaköy to Taksim Square and encompasses some of Istanbul’s most famous landmarks. In Byzantine times, this area was inhabited by the commercial colonies of Genoese and Venetian settlers.

In the Beyoğlu district, trade between Europeans and Ottomans flourished. The area quickly became a melting pot of cultures. Even today, New Istanbul attracts a diverse cross-section of society—from artists to students, and from young professionals to tourists.

• The Galata Tower

The cylindrical Galata Tower stands guard over New Istanbul and is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.

Constructed as a watchtower in 1348 by the Genoese, it remains a testament to the city’s diverse architectural and cultural heritage. For centuries, the Romanesque-style tower was Istanbul’s tallest structure.

Even today, it dominates the city’s skyline.

The interior of the Galata Tower is now a museum that showcases the various periods in Istanbul’s history.  Its upper balcony offers 360-degree views of the mosque-studded cityscape.

Admission to the Galata Tower is steep, so I recommend you time your visit wisely.

We visited the top of the Galata Tower on a smoggy day, when the most interesting views were completely backlit. If I were to return, I would try to book my tickets in advance and arrive around sunset—ensuring that I could soak in views of Istanbul during the day, and panoramas of the floodlit city after sundown.

• Galata and Karakoy Neighborhoods

Famous landmark aside, the districts around the Galata Tower are worth exploring.

The neighborhoods of Galata and Karaköy lie just across the bridge from Eminönü and Istanbul’s Old Town. They are some of the trendiest and most picturesque sections of the city. The neighborhoods are colorful and lively. They boast multicultural architecture, trendy cafes, and religious relics that blend Istanbul’s heritage with its modern influences.

At the end of our Turkey trip, we stayed near the Galata Tower for three nights. While in the area, we enjoyed meandering down small picturesque streets, finding hidden passageways, and peeking into shops and galleries.

Unfortunately—and despite our original intentions—we didn’t spend much time soaking in the vibe of Karaköy’s hipster cafes and eateries during our trip.

There are simply too many things to do in Istanbul. And spending only five days in the city meant we didn’t have the time to experience it all.

• Istiklal Street

Istiklal Street (Independence Avenue) teems with humanity and buzzes with activity. Each day, three million people meander up and down the pedestrian drag. One of the liveliest pedestrian promenades I’ve ever visited, Istiklal Street connects Taksim Square with the area around the Galata Tower.

Istiklal Street is a microcosm of the city itself. You’ll find an entire cross-section of Istanbul on the crowded promenade. It is a place where people of all walks of life converge—young and old, devout and secular. On Istiklal Street, chadors bump up against mini skirts. Fast food joints sit beside century-old eateries. And quiet passageways conceal historical relics.

There are numerous places of interest along the bustling drag. You’ll find historical passages (Atlas, Terkos, Hazzopulo, Suriye and Çiçek), churches (St Antoine, Santa Maria), art galleries, and shops selling mouthwatering Turkish treats.

• Taksim Square

If you head north along Istiklal Street, you’ll eventually find yourself in Taksim Square— a place which has been in the news time and again for demonstrations and protests.

Taksim Square is considered to be the heart of modern Istanbul, both geographically and symbolically (it features a large statue of Ataturk, the country’s founder).

You’ll find numerous restaurants, hotels and travel agencies surrounding Taksim Square, in addition to the Ataturk Cultural Center and the Taksim Mosque.

The city landmark is also a transportation hub and the northern terminus of the tram that travels back and forth along Istiklal Street.

• Dolmabahçe Palace

The largest palace in Turkey, the European-style Dolmabahçe has a whopping 258 rooms. The palace, a true gem of Istanbul’s architectural heritage, holds a rich history dating back to the mid-19th century. Commissioned by Abdülmecid I, it was intended to rival the European royal residences of its time.

And rival them it did. Dolmabahçe is every bit as flashy and grand as Versaillles and the Reggia di Caserta.

The palace’s rooms drip with showy excess. Outside, its formal gardens boast manicured lawns and ornate gates that overlook the waters of the Bosphorus.

The Dolmabahçe Palace consists of three sections: the Selamlık, the Harem and the apartments of the crown prince.

In the Selamlık, you can follow a self-guided audio tour through lavishly furnished rooms. The ceremonial hall—with its massive chandelier and resplendent dome ceiling—is particularly noteworthy.

The Harem is where the Sultan’s wives, children, and concubines resided. There, you’ll also find the room in which Ataturk lived out the last few years of his life.

The apartments now house a museum that features paintings from prominent Turkish and international artists.

Photography is not allowed inside the palace or Harem.

Additional Things to Do in Istanbul

The old and new parts of the city are where most tourists focus their itineraries. And if you only have three days or fewer in Istanbul, I suggest that you spend the bulk of your time there too.

But Istanbul is huge and dynamic and pulsing with character. Its neighborhoods are diverse and varied and brimming with things to see.

• Bosphorus Cruise

The Bosphorus cuts through Istanbul, connecting the Marmara Sea with the Black Sea. Cruising the Bosphorus is, without a doubt, one of the top Istanbul tourist activities. Beautiful wooden seaside mansions dot the shoreline, as do royal palaces, imposing mosques, and forested parks.

There are a number of ways to explore the city’s main waterway—some lasting a mere three hours, and others taking up most of the day.

We chose to take the public ferry since we were able to squeeze an extra day into our Istanbul itinerary.

A full-day Bosphorus Cruise aboard the public Sehir Hatlari ferry takes you on a two-hour trip up toward the north end of the strait. Although you can’t reach the Black Sea by ferry, you can get close. The last stop on the route is Anadolu Kavagi, a quaint fishing village chock full of seafood restaurants.

If you don’t have a whole day to dedicate to the Bosphorus, you can join a river cruise. Tours of the Bosphorus include everything from romantic sunset sails to 3 hour sightseeing excursions with a pitstop on the Asian side of the city.

• Fener and Balat Neighborhoods

While actually two different neighborhoods with very different histories, the names “Fener” and “Balat” have now become almost interchangeable. I’ve tried to look up maps of the respective neighborhoods, but the line seems blurred entirely. Formerly Istanbul’s Greek Orthodox and Jewish neighborhoods, today Fener and Balat are some of the city’s trendiest. They draw visitors to their colorful houses, antique shops, bustling cafes and art-filled streets.

Fener and Balat boast an architectural style that differs from that of the city’s other neighborhoods. The area is filled with brightly painted wooden houses called “cumbas.” You’ll see lots of people posing for Instagram in the area.

The Greek Orthodox School sits on a hill overlooking the neighborhood. An imposing rust-colored building, it is looks more like a  castle from Hogwarts than it does a religious institution.

You can reach the school by following a steep cumba-lined street to the top of the hill. If you continue past the school, you’ll end up a world away, in Çarşamba.

• St Stephens Bulgarian Church

The Church of Sveti Stefan, known colloquially as the “Bulgarian Church,” sits on a grassy lawn at the entrance of Balat. The church looks somewhat out of place in Istanbul, with its gold-domed steeple and ornamental exterior finishes.

The Church of Sveti Stefen was prefabricated in Vienna out of cast iron and then shipped, largely in tact, all the way to Istanbul.

The Bulgarian church dates back to 1898. It is one of the world’s few all-metal churches and shouldn’t be missed when visiting the neighborhoods along Istanbul’s Golden Horn.

• Çarşamba Neighborhood

Surrounding the Fatih Mosque, just north of Fener and Balat, you’ll find one of the most deeply conservative pockets of Istanbul.

While it isn’t particularly high on most tourist radars, we found the Çarşamba neighborhood to be fascinating.

We stumbled across Çarşamba by accident as we made our way south from the Greek Orthodox School. At first, we thought we had come across a religious celebration of some sort. The dress code stood in stark contrast to other parts of Istanbul. Nearly everyone—men and women alike—seemed to be fully decked out in Islamic garb.

Çarşamba is famous for its weekly Wednesday market that has been held since Byzantine times.

Walking around Çarşamba today, you’ll see hundreds of shops selling religious garb and women clad from head to toe in chador.

We didn’t visit Çarşamba during market day, but nonetheless found that the area provided a fascinating peek into a very different way of life.

• Berlebeyi Palace

Resembling a miniature Dolmabahçe Palace on the eastern banks of the Bosphorus, the Beylerbeyi Palace is yet another royal residence in Istanbul. The palace, a summer escape commissioned by Sultan Abdülaziz, is one of the top things to see on Istanbul’s Asian side.

We didn’t enter the summer residence during our trip to Istanbul, but we were able to catch a glimpse of its exterior from our Bosphorus Cruise.

• Maiden’s Tower

The Maiden’s Tower, also known as Leander’s Tower, dates back to the Byzantine period. It is located on a small islet at the southern entrance of the Bosphorus strait. The tower is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Istanbul.

The tower’s interior includes a restaurant, a cafe, and a museum that showcases the structure’s history and legends.  The top floor balcony boasts unencumbered 360 degree views of the city.

You can reach the Maiden’s Tower by ferry boat from Üsküdar or Kabataş.

Where to Stay in Istanbul

Istanbul is fairly easy to navigate on foot and via public transport. Many accommodations lie clustered in the old town and across the bridge near the Galata Tower.

Our time in Istanbul bookended our two-week trip to Turkey. On the front end, we rented an apartment in the Old Town and enjoyed being within walking distance of the city’s top tourist attractions. Traveling as a group of five narrowed our accommodation options significantly, but we were able to find a place that suited our needs.

On the back end of our trip, we stayed at the Galata Dream Hotel and enjoyed proximity to the vibrant neighborhoods in Istanbul’s New Town.

Other highly-rated options in Istanbul include the Mest Hotel Sirkeci in Fatih (midrange) and the AJWA Sultanahmet (high end)

If you’re going to splurge on a luxurious accommodation, it may as well be at the Pera Palace Hotel—a historic accommodation that has hosted dignitaries from around the world. The hotel dates back to 1892, when it opened with the purpose of hosting passengers of the Orient Express.

Even if you don’t have the budget to book a room at the museum-hotel. It is worth stepping inside for a peak at the opulent lobby.

Tours of Istanbul

We enjoyed exploring Istanbul at our leisure, over the course of five full days. I loved the freedom of seeing the iconic city at my own pace and getting lost in Istanbul’s maze of colorful neighborhoods.

For travelers with little trip planning expertise, however, Istanbul can be daunting. Istanbul boasts an overwhelming number of things to do, and organizing an itinerary can require extensive research.

If you only have limited time to spend in the city and wish to hit the highlights, you may want to consider 1, 2, and 3 day private tours of Istanbul.

When to Visit Istanbul

Generally speaking, the best time to visit Istanbul is during the shoulder season. May, September and October bring sunny warm weather without the stifling heat of midsummer. We visited Turkey in September and had spectacular weather throughout our stay in Istanbul, Cappadocia, Pamukkale, Konya, Ephesus, and Bodrum.

Like much of the rest of Europe, July and August tend to be hot, humid, and crowded.

****

As Westerners, we tend to overlook Istanbul.  The city rarely gets mentioned in the same breath as Rome or Paris or London or Barcelona.

And I don’t understand why.

The City of the World’s Desire is mesmerizing and beguiling. It brims with a rich and multilayered history that bridges continents, ideas, religions, and civilizations.

In Istanbul, Turkey’s many faces are on broad display.

It is one of the most beautiful and historically significant metropolises in the world, full stop.

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