Laos is a small country that flies largely under the radar due to its lack of big-name attractions. A land of verdant rice fields, spectacular karst formations, temple-speckled towns and friendly people, Laos packs the best that the region has to offer within its landlocked borders.

Following my sojourn in Luang Prabang, I’d originally planned to head south, toward the dramatic karst-mountain scenery of Vang Vieng.  But after reading about Vang Vieng’s notorious party-till-you-drop atmosphere, I had a change of heart and found myself in the rugged mountains of Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi instead.

Northern Laos Travel

Traveling in Northern Laos is like stepping back in time. The pace of life is markedly more laid back, and the chaos and confusion of urban living is seemingly worlds away.

The towns of Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi are two of the most popular attractions in Northern Laos. Both towns offer a relaxing retreat from the tourist-packed attractions along Southeast Asia‘s Banana Pancake Trail.

• Nong Khiaw Laos

Nong Khiaw’s primary tourist draw is its scenic location. The town sits along the banks of the Nam Ou River, surrounded by forested peaks that soar to dizzying heights.

The beauty of visiting Nong Khiaw lies in its tranquil scenery and relaxed pace of life. I could have easily spent a week in the area without any particular plans.

Two primary lookout points in Nong Khiaw reveal spectacular views of the surrounding area. The more popular costs 20,000 kip to enter and takes about an hour and a half to reach. It winds up a limestone mountain and follows a well-traveled, well-maintained path. At the top of the mountain, sits a wooden structure that affords jaw-dropping views of the surrounding scenery, the Nam Ou River and the picturesque town below.

The second viewpoint lies along the main road between the town’s bus station and its central bridge. It costs 10,000 kip to enter and is comparatively untrodden. During my entire hike, I did not see anyone else on the trail.

The path leading to the second viewpoint is so steep that, in order to complete the ascent, I found myself scrambling up tree roots and rock piles on all fours.  The views from the top, however, were well worth the arduous climb. For when I reached the wooden platform at the mountain’s summit—slightly bruised and battered from slipping and tripping—I was able to marvel at the spectacular scenery, without another soul in sight.

Aside from hiking to viewpoints, eating delicious plates of lap and swinging back and forth on a hammock, there’s not a whole lot to do in Nong Khiaw. Which is precisely why backpackers and long-term travelers have fallen in love with the laid-back Laotian town.

I spent two days hiking and hammocking in Nong Khiaw, before heading upstream to the tinier, sleepier and more remote village of Muang Ngoi.

• Muang Ngoi Laos

Muang Ngoi–a small conglomeration of houses accessible only by boat– lies along a dirt road that runs parallel to the Nam Ou River.

Though a small road connects Muang Ngoi with Nong Khiaw, the best way to travel to the remote Laotian outpost is by boat. Public boats link the two towns twice a day. The journey takes approximately one hour and costs roughly 25,000 kip.

Like Nong Khiaw, the town’s charm lies in its easygoing pace of life and its stunning scenery. Popular activities in Muang Ngoi include hiking to nearby villages, searching for hidden caves and taking a dip in the lazy waters of the Nam Ou river.

In the tiny town of Muang Ngoi, tourists outnumber locals. But Muang Ngoi is not overrun by any means. A short walk from the town’s main street reveals water buffalo lugging crops, farmers working in their fields and children chasing chickens down dusty streets.

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I was happy I’d substituted a visit to Laos’ party town for a few days of relaxing in the country’s unspoiled north. Northern Laos is the kind of place where time stands still. It is the kind of place where travelers spend days on end swinging back and forth in their river-view hammocks. It is the kind of place where worries drift away with the flow of the river.

I’d come to this remote outpost in Laos in search of a laid-back atmosphere and a mellow vibe. And I’m happy to say that my visits to Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi did not disappoint.

For relaxing is the name of the game in northern Laos. And so relax is what I did. From sunrise to sunset, for five glorious days.

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The UNESCO-recognized World Heritage city of Luang Prabang, is the undeniable hub of tourism in the tiny, landlocked nation of Laos. A city of bougainvilleas, baguettes and outstanding natural beauty, this charming Laotian town rests at the convergence of the Nam Khang river and the mighty Mekong—giving Luang Prabang a stunning setting amongst lazy waterways and verdant peaks. Like a smaller version of Chiang Mai, but with a decidedly French flair, it is a place where backpackers come to recharge for a few days, and end up spending weeks.

While Laos may seem off the beaten tourist path when compared to nearby Southeast Asian countries, a visit to Luang Prabang reveals that the country has actually been on the backpacker’s trail for quite a while. Luang Prabang is chock-a-block full of boutique hotels, western restaurants, souvenir shops and handicraft stores.

But Luang Prabang—touristy as it may be—showcases some of Southeast Asia’s best examples of urban architecture and natural beauty. With its ornate temples, its colonial buildings, its idyllic riverine setting and its laid-back vibe, there’s a lot to love about this charming, picturesque town.

TWO DAY LUANG PRABANG ITINERARY

I flew to Luang Prabang via Bangkok, after ten days of exploring the highlights of Myanmar with my friend, Val. Luang Prabang is a UNESCO-protected gem that lays claim to gold-gilded temples, orange-clad monks, crumbling Indochinese villas and tantalizing French-inspired cuisine. The city is exceptional for its rich heritage that reflects the fusion of Lao traditional architecture with that of the French colonial era.

I spent two days in Luang Prabang, enjoying the city’s architecture, its cuisine and its nearby natural attractions.

Over the course of two days, I explored the best of what Luang Prabang has to offer. I walked the town’s streets, set foot in its ornate and dazzling palaces, soaked in views from the Phu Si Temple, and took a day trip to the exquisite Kuang Si Waterfall outside of town.

DAY 1: EXPLORING THE BEST OF LUANG PRABANG

On my first day in Luang Prabang, I set out to experience the top things to do and see in Laos’ touristy backpacker town. I began my day at the crack of dawn to witness the alms-giving procession, and then spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening exploring the town’s temples and markets.

• LUANG PRABANG ALMS-GIVING CEREMONY

On my first day in Luang Prabang, I woke up at dawn to witness the town’s famous almsgiving ceremony. The morning alms procession is a daily ritual that takes place before sunrise across much of Southeast Asia. The practice consists of young monks walking through lamp-lit streets, collecting offerings of sticky rice from village residents.

From my vantage point across the street, I watched rows and rows of saffron-clad monks accept food offerings from locals and tourists alike. The spectacle was both beautiful and frustrating. Beautiful for its cultural symbolism; frustrating for the throngs of early-rising spectators that crowded around the monks–clicking cameras in their faces and obstructing the views of those of us who wished to witness from a respectful distance.

• LUANG PRABANG TEMPLES

After watching the almsgiving procession, I returned to my hostel for a quick nap. Then, for the remainder of the day, I simply wandered down Luang Prabang’s attractive streets, crossed its bamboo stilt bridge, ate inordinate amounts of street food and admired the city’s architectural marvels.

Luang Prabang is home to a remarkable number of Buddhist temples with intricately carved facades. Among them, Wat Xiengthong, Wat Mai and Wat Xieng Muan.

As is typical in Southeast Asia, Luang Prabang packs a ton of temples into its city limits. The town’s most significant temple, the Wat Xieng Thong, lies near the outskirts of town.

The Luang Prabang style temples are characterized by an elaborate front façades and large, multi tiered sweeping roofs.

• CLIMB MOUNT PHOUSI

At the heart of Luang Prabang, sits Mount Phousi–the city’s most prominent landmark. A 329 step trail climbs 100 meters to the Phu Si Temple. Climbing the Phu Si Temple is one of the top things to do in Luang Prabang. The Phu Si Temple pales in comparison with the larger wats that speckle Luang Prabang, but its surrounding views make the uphill trek worthwhile.

It is a wonderful—albeit crowded—spot to watch the infamous Laotian sunsets.

• LUANG PRABANG NIGHT MARKET

The colorful and lively  Luang Prabang night market caters to travelers from abroad with its rows of stalls selling scarves, paintings and kitschy souvenirs. It isn’t exactly an authentic place to visit, nor does it offer a true glimpse into local Laotian life.

Still, strolling through the night market is one of the top things to do in Luang Prabang and a wonderful way to spend the evening.

DAY TRIP TO THE KUANG SI WATERFALL

I spent the second of my two days in Luang Prabang at the nearby Kuang-Si waterfall—a spectacular multi-level cascade that tumbles over limestone formations into a series of cool, swimmable pools.

With its chalky turquoise color and lush setting, I found Kuang Si comparable in beauty to some of the world’s greatest waterfalls, including Iguazu, Victoria and Gulfoss.

The Kuang Si waterfall lies 30km from Luang Prabang and can be easily reached by tuk tuk, motorbike or organized tour. Since most tours leave at either 11am or 1pm, those eager to escape the largest crowds should either hire a tuk tuk or set out by motorbike no later than 9am. I found a handful of people with whom I could share a tuk tuk and reached the park at 9:30 am.

Entrance to the Kuang Si Waterfall park costs 20,000 kip and includes a visit to the adjacent bear rescue center. Home to endangered Asiatic moon bears, the rehabilitation center rescues wild animals from poachers who sell them for their bile.

I spent much of the afternoon at Kuang Si—hiking along the trails to the top of the waterfall, wading in the natural swimming holes and photographing the silky sheets of water as they cascaded into aquamarine pools.

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I’d always considered Laos to be Southeast Asia’s afterthought. But I realized, after my visit to the country, that I couldn’t have been more wrong. Travelers have long since discovered the tiny nation’s charm and appeal.

And rightly so.

For, as far as I could see during my short week in the country, the land of butterflies and baguettes offers a little bit of something for everyone—tantalizing cuisine for food aficionados, untouched nature for adventure-seekers, gold-gilded wats for lovers of history and a laid-back vibe for those who just want to sit back, relax and soak in the natural beauty of this long-standing backpacker’s utopia.

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