Isolated and wild, Svaneti Georgia is a land of enchantment that sits high in the Caucasus Mountains.

Geographically cut off from the rest of the country and seemingly stuck in time, the little slice of heaven soars miles above the clouds.

In Svaneti, picturesque settlements—characterized by their UNESCO-recognized Svan towers—lie sprinkled about dramatic mountains that are laced with hiking trails.

It is the Georgia of glossy travel brochures, yet it is so inaccessible that very few travelers make their way to its doorstep.

SVANETI REGION OF GEORGIA

Svaneti is divided into two regions: Upper (Zemo) Svaneti and Lower (Kvemo) Svaneti. A mountain range bisects the region, cutting off its northern half and sandwiching it between lofty peaks.

Upper Svaneti encompasses Mestia and the villages of Ushguli. It is a true unspoiled paradise.

Any mention of Svaneti in this blog post refers solely to the UNESCO-recognized Upper Svaneti region.

Svaneti is so remote and isolated that it was never conquered by invaders. Its inhabitants, the fiercely independent Svan people, have been the gatekeepers of northern Georgia’s mountain passes for centuries. They are proud warriors; the ultimate survivors.

And throughout history, their independence has allowed them to retain a distinct language and culture that still thrives today.

The towns and villages of Svaneti Georgia have a unique architecture that reflects the region’s independent spirit. These communities often contain small collections of houses, each equipped with stone lookout towers that were constructed to protect against invading armies and natural disasters.

These stone towers are a symbol of Svaneti’s distinct regional identity.

MESTIA GEORGIA: GATEWAY TO SVANETI

Mestia is the ‘capital’ of Upper Svaneti and the de-facto transportation hub of the region. A sprawling conglomeration of at least ten hamlets, it sits in a verdant Svan-tower-dotted valley.

Despite its small size, Mestia is an important cultural center. The town feels downright bustling compared to the region’s more remote villages.

Mestia provides a great base for hiking in Svaneti.

With a half day in Mestia before we headed to Ushguli, we decided to hike the first few miles of the Mestia-Ushguli trail.

Unfortunately, Dan and I weren’t able to properly take advantage of the town’s wealth of hiking trails. Our hike only gave us a tiny taste of the stunning scenery that lies at the town’s fingertips.

USHGULI GEORGIA: THE JEWEL OF UPPER SVANETI

Beyond Mestia lies the tinier, higher and more remote smattering of villages known collectively as Ushguli. The five small hamlets— Zhibiani,  Chvibiani,  Chazhashi,  Murqmeli, and  Lamjurishi—sit nestled under the shadow of the towering Mount Shkhara.

Set in the topmost reaches of the Enguri valley beneath the snow-covered dome of Georgia’s highest peak, Ushguli is an unbelievably picturesque spot and one of the most beautiful places in Georgia.

Many of the travelers we met in Svaneti chose to visit Ushguli as a day trip from Mestia.

But the road from Mestia to Ushguli is mostly washed-out gravel, meaning that the 47km journey can take upwards of three hours. Even though we visited in the height of summer, the road was in terrible shape due to recent rainfall. Our driver had to dodge potholes, weave around landslides and even ford a small river.

Needless to say, considering the effort it took us to get to Ushguli, I’m glad we stuck around for a few days.

TOP HIKES IN SVANETI GEORGIA

Svaneti Georgia is a hiker’s wonderland.

It is rugged and wild. A true paradise for lovers of off-the-beaten-path travel and adventure. 

Whether you’re looking to undertake multi-day backpacking trips or half-day adventures, hiking in Svaneti provides no shortage of breathtaking views.

POPULAR HIKES IN MESTIA

Mestia is Svaneti’s tourism hub and the place from which most of Svaneti’s marked hiking trails depart.

Though Dan and I only had the time to do a half-day of hiking in Mestia, we immediately realized that we would need at least three full days to do the area justice (with an additional four for the full Mestia-Ushguli trail).

• CHALADI GLACEIR

The Chalaadi Glacier lies about 12km outside of Mestia. The glacial tongue, about 6km long, follows the Chaladi River Gorge before emptying out near the Mestiachala River. It is one of the most easily accessible glaciers in the Caucasus and a popular day hike destination from Mestia. 

The Chaladi Glacier hike takes about 4-5 hours roundtrip.

• KORULDI LAKES

The 10km Koruldi Lakes trail is another one of Mestia’s most popular hikes.

A classic Svaneti hike, it leads to a group of alpine lakes that lie at the foot of Mt Ushba. Trails from the Koruldi Lakes continue onward, along the spectacular Koruldi Ridge.

The lakes are also accessible by car. If you’re hoping to cover more ground and savor views from the ridge, you can catch a ride to the lakes and begin your hike from there.

THE MESTIA TO USHGULI TRAIL

The 37.4 mile point-to-point trail between Mestia and Ushguli is one of the best hikes in Svaneti. It takes 3-4 days to complete and is popular among backpackers.

Dan and I didn’t have time in our itinerary to dedicate to the full trekking route.

So heeding advice from the visitor’s center in town, we set out in the direction of Ushguli and then turned back after the first few miles.

The trek from Mestia to Ushguli follows a well-marked path that leads past several rural hamlets. It overlooks the river, passes through cow-studded pastures and provides mind-blowing 360 degree panoramas of the surrounding mountains.

Of course, with only a few hours to explore, Dan and I were merely able to get a taste of the popular trekking route before turning back.

Still, we relished the views and ogled at the drama of Svaneti’s wilderness.

TOP USHGULI HIKES

At 2,100 meters above sea level, Ushguli is Europe’s highest permanently inhabited settlement and an undeniable highlight of travel to Georgia.

Aside from the Shkhara Glacier hike, there aren’t many well-marked trails in Ushguli. And since the town is too small to offer a visitor’s center, we consulted our trusty *maps.me app for hiking suggestions.

• TAMAR’S CASTLE

The atmospheric ruins of Tamar’s Castle sit on top of a hill in Chazhashi. They once consisted of four defensive towers and a church, though just one tower and the ruins of the church can be seen today.

The short hike to Queen Tamar’s Castle is among the most popular in Ushguli.

• SHKHARA GLACIER HIKE

The Mount Shkhara’s glacier hike follows the Patara Enguri river as it winds between grassy mountainsides and past verdant pastures.

The hike takes roughly six hours to complete. The entire trek follows the river along the valley floor. It is a leisurely alternative to the more strenuous hikes in the area.

As we followed the river, we witnessed cows grazing in the pastures and young boys on horseback tending to their sheep.

All the while, the snowcapped massif of Mount Shkhara expanded before us.

• MOUNT GVARI TRAIL

On our second day in Ushguli, we settled on a trail that would give us 360 degree panoramas of the mountains and birds-eye views of town. The trail leading up Mount Gvari is well-marked, though certainly off the beaten path. It follows the river to the west of town and then veers up a mountainside behind the village of Murkmeli.

It took us nearly three hours to hike to the summit of Gvari Peak. Perhaps it was due to the high altitude, or perhaps Dan and I were just embarrassingly out of shape, but we found the hike to be exhausting. It seemed we could only take a few steps, before needing to catch our breaths.

But the views from the top of the Mount Gvari were jaw-dropping.

And better yet, we were able to enjoy the entire mountain paradise without another soul in sight.

WHERE TO STAY IN SVANETI

Svaneti isn’t a mainstream tourism destination, so you won’t find popular international hotel and resort chains.

Instead, Svaneti’s accommodations mostly consists of guesthouses, homestays, and rustic hotels.

• USHGULI

We spent two nights in a local homestay during our visit to Ushguli and enjoyed the basic yet comfortable experience.

The property we stayed at is no longer bookable online and I’m not sure if they’re still accepting guests, but there are several other similar accommodations that receive positive reviews. Among them are the Nizharadze’s Tower and Chazhashi Guesthouse.

If you’re looking for a more hotel-like place to stay, you might want to consider the Agra Ushguli.

• MESTIA

Mestia has the largest assortment of hotels in Svaneti. As the region’s tourism hub, it caters to a variety of different budgets and travel styles.

We stayed at Hotel Elite House (formerly known as Marina’s Guesthouse) during our short visit to Mestia. The accommodation was superb—centrally located, clean and affordable.

For budget travelers, the Ecohouse Svaneti boasts ski-to-door rooms at an unbeatable price. Though it lies a few miles from town, it is a great option if you have your own transportation.

For a mid-range option, the Paliani Hotel features clean modern rooms and a central location.

And if you’re looking for a quiet cabin retreat within easy reach of town, the WinterFell Mestia offers two-story A-frames with balconies and mountain views.

GETTING TO SVANETI

In order to reach Svaneti from Tbilisi, we took an overnight train to Kutaisi, followed by a three hour mashrutka journey to the provincial capital of Mestia.

Most travelers will find themselves transiting through Zugdidi to reach Mestia. During Georgia’s low season, when there are no direct vans from Tbilisi/Kutaisi/Batumi, you’ll probably have to change in Zugdidi.

While it’s possible to self-drive to Svaneti, I don’t recommend it unless you are very experienced with rough washed-out roads. Weather conditions in the mountains change fast. Landslides occur every year, and the road often gets damaged by heavy rain.

The road from Mestia to Ushguli is downright scary and best left to experienced drivers who make the journey daily. Most car rentals won’t even let you take rentals into the remote reaches of Upper Svaneti.

BEST TIME TO VISIT SVANETI

In the summer months of July and August, the weather can be unbearably hot in the Caucasus capitals of Tbilisi, Yerevan and Baku.

But up in the remote northern mountains of Georgia, summer is the best time to visit.

Mestia has a few ski resorts that are open during winter months, but travel to Ushguli will probably be a no-go come November.

In colder months, snow and ice makes the mountain villages inaccessible.

***

Hiking in Svaneti Georgia provides no shortage of spectacular views. And Ushguli—the collection of rustic postcard-perfect towns at the base of Mount Shkhara—is its ultimate unexplored frontier.

Unlike the equally stunning Kazbeghi region along Georgia’s Military Highway, a visit to Svaneti cannot be accomplished in a day.

Travel in the region–especially around the remote outpost of Ushguli– is more challenging than in the rest of Georgia. The roads are bad. Food options are limited. Wifi is slow. Electricity is sporadic. And inclement weather can make the villages unreachable, even in the height of summer.

But truth be told, with scenery so beautiful in every direction, the lack of amenities should be the last thing on your mind.

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A few years ago, I came across a photo of a mountaintop monastery in the Republic of Georgia. The monastery in the photo soared above the surrounding landscape, half hidden in a dense layer of fog. I remember being wowed by the picture and surprised that there was a whole region of the world sandwiched between Russia and the Middle East, that I’d never thought twice about visiting. I knew very little about Georgia at the time, but the small church piqued my curiosity.

So in September–when the lowlands of Georgia were still feeling the remnants of a summer heat wave and the Caucasus Mountains were blessed with balmy weather–I traveled along Georgia’s spectacular military highway in search of the picturesque church.

ATTRACTIONS ALONG THE GEORGIAN MILITARY HIGHWAY

The Georgian Military Highway is one of the most scenic roads in the caucasus and a highlight of traveling to Georgia.

Originally constructed in the 19th century during the Russian occupation of the Caucasus, the scenic highway follows a traditional route once used by traders and invaders. The road travels through challenging mountain terrain, linking Tbilisi Georgia to Vladikavkaz in Russia.

It is a spectacular route that highlights the natural splendor of Georgia’s Caucasus Mountains.

• TRAVELING THE GEORGIAN MILITARY HIGHWAY

Visiting Kazbegi via the Georgian Military Highway, is a popular day trip from Tbilisi. Shoestring travelers keen on taking public transportation, will find that the route between Tbilisi and Kazbegi is well connected by shared minivans. These minivans,  known as mashrutkas, travel the three hour route multiple times a day and cost roughly six dollars.

Yet, while we found traveling by mashrutka to be tempting price-wise, Dan and I opted for an organized tour of the area instead. For sixteen dollars apiece, we negotiated a one-way tour, with multiple pitstops along the way.

And we’re happy we spent the extra dollars. For the scenery is just too jaw-dropping to admire while squashed in the middle seat of a zooming minivan.

The Georgian Military Highway is a stunning ribbon of road that wraps around lakeshores and twists between mountain peaks. As it leaves Tbilisi, the road hugs the Zhinvali Reservoir and passes through densely forested hills, before climbing toward the 2379m Jvari Pass and then descending into the small town of Kazbegi.

ANANURI FORTRESS

The first stop on our tour, was the lakeside fortress of Ananuri—a castle that clings to the shores of the turquoise Aragvi River reservoir.

Ananuri lies about an hour north of Tbilisi and offers a classic example of Medieval Georgian architecture. It is one of the most striking attractions along Georgia’s Military Highway.

For about an hour, we climbed the fortress towers, admired the interior frescoes of its two Orthodox churches and looked out at the glassy waters of the lake.

GUDAURI SKI AREA

From Ananuri, we followed a series of hairpin turns toward Gudauri–the most popular place to go skiing in Georgia. Gaudari is a ski resort situated amongst breathtaking mountains. As the road neared the ski slopes, it ascended higher and higher into the Caucasus. At each stop along the way, we noticed the landscape transform. The mountains grew taller. The air grew cooler. The forest-covered hills gave way to velvety, treeless mountains.

By the time we reached our destination, it was nearly three in the afternoon. The day-trippers in our group had less than an hour to spend in Kazbegi, before returning to Tbilisi.

We were glad we decided to save the return leg of our journey for the following day.

KAZBEGI GEORGIA

Kazbegi is the most popular stop on the Georgian Military Highway and one of the most beautifully situated towns in Georgia. It boasts some of the best mountain views in the country, while still being relatively easy to reach in comparison to the UNESCO-recognized Svaneti Region.

After we arrived in Kazbegi, Dan and I explored our surroundings for the remainder of the afternoon. We dropped off our bags at the lovely Inga Guesthouse, changed into our hiking clothes and set out to discover the Ioane Natlismcemeli Church outside of town.

• IOANE NATLIMSCEMELI CHURCH

The Ioane Natlismcemeli Church sits opposite Mount Kazbek, in the shadow of colossal granite mountains. While more modest and certainly less well-known than the Gergeti Trinity Church, Ioane Natlimscemeli’s setting is every bit as impressive. Dan and I spent nearly two hours enjoying the area around the church. We admired a group of wild horses, watched shepherds tend to their sheep and relished the views of Mount Kazbek in the distance.

When we began the return trek into town, heavy clouds rolled in and rain began to fall. Within minutes, it was pouring.

Soaking, we hurried down the mountainside and ducked into a restaurant for a hearty meal of shkmeruli. Then, we ran to our guesthouse, dove under the covers of our comfy bed and cozied up until the following morning.

The next day, Dan and I met up with a Polish couple that we had befriended in Signaghi a few days prior. Together, we hiked the eight mile roundtrip trail to the Gergeti Trinity Church.

Led by an affable stray that acted as our tour guide, we wove through the streets of town, passed stone houses and stables, and then scrambled straight up the mountainside.

• THE GERGETI TRINITY CHURCH

Perched atop a foothill of the towering Mount Kazbek, the Gergeti Trinity Church is one of the most iconic images of Orthodox Georgia. Like many of the Orthodox churches in the area, the structure itself is relatively simple. Yet its unique setting is so dramatic, that travelers from around the world have traveled along Georgia’s Military Highway in order to see the church with their own eyes.

The Gergeti Trinity Church sits in a definitively epic location. Due to its dramatic setting and its awe-inspiring natural surroundings, the 14th century church has become a symbol of Georgia.

We spent much of the morning hiking to the church and admiring the views from its doorstep. Then, once we’d made our way back to town, we gathered our backpacks, found a mashrutka driver that would take us to Tbilisi and watched the scenery of the Georgian Military Highway zoom past us once more.

****

I’m glad that Dan and I chose to take a tour bus from Tbilisi to Kazbegi. And I’m glad that we chose to spend two days in the area rather than one. Kazbegi is the Georgia that I’d dreamed about. It is the Georgia that has captivated countless other travelers with its beauty. Before setting foot in Georigia, I knew that Kazbegi would be beautiful. But the 360 degree views of my surroundings surpassed even my wildest expectations.

I soon realized that, while the photo I’d seen of the Gergeti Trinity Church a few years back may have piqued my interest in the country, it did not even come close to capturing its majesty.

The post Kazbegi: Gem of the Georgian Military Highway appeared first on Erika's Travels .

Like nearby Azerbaijan and Armenia, the Republic of Georgia isn’t exactly the first place most Americans think of when planning their holidays. Nor is it the second. Nor the third. Some of the people I spoke with were surprised that I was willingly choosing to visit a country associated with uprisings and Soviet aggression. Others were altogether unaware of Georgia’s existence.

But the Republic of Georgia is a far cry from its stereotype as a repressed nation with little to offer. The small Caucasian country is brimming with natural beauty, urban wonders and culinary delights. Since the Rose Revolution in 2003, Georgia has come a long way in reinventing itself as a wonderland for lovers of nature and culture.

And in Europe, at least, tourists are slowly starting to take notice.

TWO DAY ITINERARY FOR TBILISI AND SIGHNAGHI

Dan and I spent two days in Tbilisi, following an overnight train journey from Baku–Azerbaijan’s flashy, oil-rich capital on the banks of the Caspian Sea. During our trip to Tbilisi, we stayed at the Hippie Hostel. While not downtown, it is a comfortable budget option within walking distance of all major sites in the city.

Though we could have easily spent the entirety of our Tbilisi itinerary on the city itself, our two days in Tbilisi included a visit to the wine-maker’s region of Sighnaghi.

TBILISI: THE UNDERRATED GEM OF THE CAUCASUS

At first glance, Tbilisi seemed a bit rough around the edges. Near the train station, our impression was of an economically depressed city with boarded up shops and concrete apartment buildings. Yet, as we made our way toward our Hostel, both the city itself and our impressions of the area began to transform.

And when we walked along the Kura River from our accommodation to the Old Town, Tbilisi swept us away with its uniqueness and charm.

Tbilisi is attractive and ever-lively–with picturesque cafe-lined streets, a dramatic rivarine setting and monasteries speckling a patchwork of colorful houses. In the city’s historic quarters, lace-like balconies adorn crumbling houses and cobbled streets amble up steep hillsides.

I may even go as far as saying that Tbilisi is one of Europe’s prettiest capital cities.

Tbilisi’s recent stability since the Rose Revolution, has propelled the city into a disorienting modern age. Its cityscape is at once harmonious and eclectic, with beautiful natural surroundings and distinctive architecture that reflects its storied past.

Like Baku, Tbilisi sits at the convergence of East and West; at a crossroads of civilizations that left indelible marks on the nation’s identity and psyche.  So while largely Eastern Orthodox, the city has a fascinating mix of religious buildings dotting its hillsides. In wandering the streets of Tbilisi, we uncovered mosques and synagogues and more churches than I could count.

For the best views of Tbilisi’s space-age architecture and ancient cathedrals, we took a funicular to the Narikala Fortress that towers over the city. From the top of the fortress, a birds-eye view of Tbilisi reveals a city with a fragmented identity–one that is clinging to its historic past, while it marches steadfast into the 21st Century.

Though there are many things to do in Tbilisi, Dan and I quickly found that eating our way through the city became our favorite past-time. During our two days in Tbilisi, Dan and I indulged in the tantalizing meat-y cheese-y goodness of Georgian cuisine. Tbilisi’s highly touted food scene is not for the faint-hearted. Dripping in fats and smothered in cheese, Georgia’s artery-clogging, cholesterol-heavy food is some of the tastiest I’ve ever encountered.

Heeding the advice of our Lonely Planet guide, we tried khachapuri at Machakela for lunch, and then headed to Racha for a no-frills dinner of solid Georgian home-cooking. Racha is an unassuming eatery that is regarded as one of the best restaurants in Tbilisi. In the crowded underground restaurant, we delighted in walnut-stuffed eggplants, juicy Kinkali dumplings and Georgian red wine.

SIGHNAGHI: HEART OF GEORGIA’S WINE COUNTRY

The following day, Dan and I traveled to Sighnaghi in order to learn more about Georgia’s winemaking traditions. Situated roughly two hours from Tbilisi–in the heart of Georgia’s wine country– Sighnaghi is a pretty hilltop town that blends Georgian architectural styles with the charm of a Tuscan village.

The Kakheti Region of Georgia is one of the oldest wine regions in the world. In the fertile valleys East of Tbilisi, winemaking dates back 8,000 years. Today, wine is one of Georgia’s primary exports and viticultural traditions are considered an integral part of the country’s national identity.

We visited Sighnaghi in hopes of eating at the Pheasant’s Tears Winery–a popular stop along Georgia’s food and wine trail and a feature on Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown. Unfortunately, once we arrived, we found that the establishment was closed for the summer holidays.

Pheasant’s Tears aside, Sighnaghi is worth visiting. In the company of a Polish couple we had met on the minibus from Tbilisi, we savored wine and lamb kebabs at the Host of Sighnaghi Cafe, walked to the nearby Bodbe Monastery and relished the views of our surroundings.

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It is difficult to pinpoint exactly what makes the Republic of Georgia so special. I imagine its allure is a combination of natural beauty, of unbridled hospitality, of postcard-perfect villages and of delightful food. And I know I’m not the only person that has been seduced by Georgia’s charm. Europeans are catching on and, as a result, Georgia is consistently getting coverage as one of the world’s best value destinations.

I presume it won’t be long till my fellow Americans realize what they’ve been missing.

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