While Moorea is famous for its crystal clear waters and Tahiti for its jet-black sands, Tetiaroa Atoll is the type of place that is most synonymous with my imaginings of the Pacific. Paradisiacal and remote, it is an isolated ring of white sand lined with palm trees and surrounded by coral gardens.

Tetiaroa’s isolation gave me the feeling that I was journeying to the end of the Earth. Aside from Arno Atoll in the Marshall Islands and And Atoll in Micronesia, I’m not sure if I’ve ever been anywhere so off-the-beaten-path and far-flung. 

The atoll—famed for being the private island of actor Marlon Brando—is neither touristy nor deveoped. Currently, the island has no permanent residents and, thus, those arriving on day trips from Papeete are often the only people within 50 kilometers.

DAY TOUR OF TETIAROA ATOLL

While snorkeling at the Lagoonarium in Moorea, a fellow traveler recommended that we take a day trip to Tetiaroa Atoll on our penultimate day in French Polynesia. And though we had never heard of the island before, we needed little convincing. 

Our day trip to Tetiaroa with Poe Charters began with a two hour journey from Tahiti on a catamaran. For most of the ride, our boat cut through the open waters of the Pacific. The waves were relentless and the winds strong enough to create swells that would periodically pour over the sides of the boat and shower us with water.

I began to worry that the grey skies would bring rain and that our stay on the island would be met with adverse weather conditions.  

But when we arrived in Tetiaroa, the sun peaked through the clouds just in time for our walk around the atoll to motu Tahuna Iti, more commonly known as Bird Island. 

BIRD ISLAND ON TETIAROA ATOLL

Beyond its breathtaking beauty, Tetiaroa is a natural haven for avian life. Despite its tiny size, Bird Island is a seabird sanctuary that is home to a large and diverse array of avian species, including brown boobies and grey-black terns.

Each day, thousands of migrating birds make the journey from Tahiti—choosing to nest amongst the dense vegetation of the predator-free island.

We stayed on the strip of soft white sand for a while and swam in the warm waters of the shallow lagoon, watching the seabirds fly overhead. 

The scenery was incredible—in many ways reminiscent of Panama’s San Blas Islands, with its snowy-colored sand, its vibrant turquoise waters and its lack of large hotels and resorts. 

After lounging around on Bird Island and walking out to the shallow islands of the lagoon, our group headed back to the boat for a tasty lunch of seared swordfish and poisson cru.

SNORKELING IN TETIAROA

For the second half of our day trip to Tetiaroa, we had the opportunity to explore the underwater world of the island’s lagoon. As with the snorkeling in Moorea’s Lagoonarium, Dan and I had the opportunity to swim amongst colorful species of tropical fish, admire the intricate coral and come face to face with docile lemon sharks.

The reef surrounding Tetiaroa provides a perfect place for marine life to flourish.  At least 167 fish species—including colorful parrotfish, spotted eagle rays and reef sharks—frequent the island’s waters.

The reef around Tetiaroa is among the best I’ve ever seen. In terms of visibility and preservation, it rivals those in Micronesia’s And Atoll and Palau’s South Rock Islands.

While its coral gardens are perfectly preserved, the fish are plentiful and the visibility is unparalleled, what struck Dan and I most about swimming in the reef, was that we found ourselves at the edge of an ocean shelf, where the shallow reef dropped off into a dark abyss. From the water’s surface, we were able to see the varying shades of blue representing the depths of the ocean floor.

***

Our day trip to Tetiaroa Atoll was worth every penny of the hefty $120 price tag. Marlon Brando’s uninhabited island is nothing like Moorea or Tahiti, but it is no less beautiful.

With its swaying palms, its powdered shores and its far-flung appeal, the beautiful Polynesian atoll provided the exact paradise I’d imagined when planning a trip to the South Pacific.

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Tahiti conjures images of a far-flung tropical paradise. The largest island in French Polynesia, it has long been associated with crystal clear waters, soft white sands and luxurious overwater bungalows.

Yet, in Tahiti, the sands are not white and the waters are not clear. And stepping foot on the island might make you wonder about the images you’ve seen in holiday brochures.

It is a paradoxical place—one whose very name draws people to French Polynesia, and then ultimately becomes overlooked by travelers opting to visit other islands instead.

Tahiti may not satisfy our imaginings of the Pacific, but the volcanic island is nonetheless intoxicating. What Tahiti lacks in white sand, it makes up for with its waterfall-laden mountainsides, its sweeping volcanic beaches, and its distinct Polynesian flair.

THINGS TO DO IN TAHITI

There is no doubt that Tahiti is the heart and soul of French Polynesia. The island buzzes with locals going about their daily lives. It is a place where the island archipelago puts on its most vibrant cultural display.

Dan and I visited Tahiti at the tail end of our week-long trip to French Polynesia. Our packed 24 hour itinerary encompassed many of the top things to do in Tahiti—including visits to ruins, gardens, waterfalls, and stunning black sand beaches.

SHOP AT THE PAPEETE MARKET

The Papeete Market fills an entire city block in French Polynesia’s largest city. It sells everything from vegetables to flower bouquets and from a hearty Polynesian meals to kitschy tourist trinkets. Visiting its colorful stalls is the top thing to do in Papeete.

The Papeete Municipal Market is open daily, from 4am to 6pm. On Monday it opens an hour later. On Sundays—when local residents rush to get their provisions before heading off to church—the market opens its doors at 3am and closes by 9am.

Sunday mornings are said to be particularly lively at the Papeete Market.

STEP BACK IN TIME AT THE ARAHURAHU MARAE

We began our counterclockwise drive around the Tahiti with a stop at the Arahurahu Marae archeological site. Maraes are Polynesian temple enclosures used for worship and social gatherings. They can be found throughout the Polynesian islands and New Zealand.

Though most maraes appear to be nothing more than piles of rounded rocks, they represent once-important centers of social, political and religious activity.

An open-air museum of sorts, Arahurahu is the only marae in all of Polynesia that has been fully restored.

The Arahurah Marae lies nestled amidst lush jungle-like vegetation. Its tiki statues and stone structures are a testament to Polynesia’s rich history and tradition prior to European colonization. Though I could find little online about their significance, the humanlike tiki statues reminded me of mini versions of Easter Island‘s moai.

VISIT THE LUSH MARA’A GROTTO

Along the southern coast of Tahiti, meandering pathways lead to ferny grottoes dripping in lush vegetation.

The three grottos at Mara’a are spectacularly overgrown with ferns and massive plants. They conceal crystal clear pools of water.

Paul Gauguin used to come here to paint.

It isn’t difficult to see why.

The Mara’a Grotto lies along the southwestern edge of Tahiti’s coastal road. An easily accessible manicured path leads to its fairytale caves.

SWIM AT TAHARUU BLACK SAND BEACH

Taharuu Beach is a sweeping stretch of volcanic sand that lies in the shadows of Tahiti’s lush mountainsides. Though it is one of Tahiti’s most beautiful beaches, it is a stark contrast to the idyllic white sand of Bora Bora or Moorea.

While at Taharuu, we found a local fish shack that sold tasty poisson cru. After a walk along the beach, we sat down for lunch—watching the rhythmic crashing of frothy waves against ebony sands.

You’ll find the beach about 25 miles southeast of Papeete, in Papara. There’s no fee to access its breathtaking stretch of shoreline.

Taharuu Beach is not the only idyllic black sand beach on Tahiti. If you’re staying close to Papeete, Lafayette Beach is also notable for its volcanic sand. As is the Point Venus peninsula.

If you’re after white sand, your closest bets will be Maui Beach and Taoroto (but don’t expect the same snowy-white hues that ring French Polynesia’s outer islands).

ADMIRE THE GARDENS OF VAIPAHI

Situated along Tahiti’s southern coast in Mataiea, the Vaipahi Gardens are a lush verdant paradise. They house exotic flowers, streams, lily ponds, and waterfalls.

The Vaipahi Waterfall, located a short walk from the garden’s entrance, is one of the most beautiful cascades on the island. It is well worth visiting, even if you have plans to stop by the larger and more renowned Faaruami waterfalls during your trip.

From the garden, two additional hiking loops showcase the tropical island‘s reef from above.

The Vaipahi Gardens are free to visit. They open daily at 7am and close at 5pm.

FAARUMAI WATERFALLS

The lush island of Tahiti is no stranger to water. During the rainy season, small cascades trickle down the mountainsides like flowing tears.

The year-round Faarumai waterfalls are the tallest and most beautiful in Polynesia. Visiting them is among the top things to do in Tahiti.

The waterfalls are located near Tiarei Village, on the island’s northeastern edge.

A short trail leads you to Vaimahutu, the first of the waterfalls. Another 20-minute stroll leads to the side-by-side Haamarere Iti and Haamarere Rahi.

SURF THE WAVES IN TAHITI

Surfing pros like to head to Teahupo’o on Tahiti Iti—home of the annual Billabong pro Tahiti surf competition.

At Teahupo’o, the seafloor rises quickly. As a result, southwesterly swells carry energy from the open ocean until they crash into the offshore reef. Its massive crashing waves are known as “the heaviest waves in the world.”

Visitors looking for easier rides will find gentler waves at Taharuu, Papenoo and Orofara.

Dan and I don’t have any first-hand experience surfing in Tahiti.

But from our understanding, the island has no shortage of surfable waves.

WATCH THE SUNSET AT POINT VENUS

Point Venus Beach lies along a small peninsula on the northernmost tip of Tahiti. It features a lighthouse and a park-like setting. The sandy peninsula  is a popular destination for swimming, picnics, and family outings.

It is here that James Cook observed the transit of Venus across the sun in 1769.

Point Venus Beach is the best sunset-viewing spot on Tahiti. At the end of our drive around the island, we enjoyed watching the sun descend behind Moorea’s jagged silhouette in the distance.

I couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of déjà vu as I stood out on the soft volcanic sand and watched the sun reflect its colors onto the ocean. In so many ways, it reminded me of watching the sun set at Punta Jesus Maria on Nicaragua’s Ometepe Island.

TAKE A TOUR THROUGH TAHITI’S LUSH INTERIOR

From the coastline, Tahiti’s mountains appear otherworldly—almost as though they belong in the backdrop of a fantasy film.

Tahiti’s interior is incredibly impenetrable and exploring the heart of the island can only be done by 4×4 or on a guided tour.

Dan and I never made it to Tahiti’s interior. Due to time and budgetary constraints, we chose to skip out on a tour of the area.

I’ll be sure to join a 4X4 adventure tour next time I visit the island, however. Foregoing a trip into the heart of Tahiti is one of my biggest travel regrets.

Based on what we got to see of Tahiti’s jagged peaks during our drive, I’m sure a voyage into the island’s interior would have been unforgettable.

WHERE TO STAY IN TAHITI

French Polynesia is practically synonymous with luxury. The island chain is famous for its overwater bungalows and opulent waterside cottages.

If you’re traveling to Tahiti on a budget, you’ll probably have to look toward renting a room or AirBnb. For inexpensive hotels, the Mahana Lodge Hostel in Papeete and Manomano Lodge in Papara offer comparatively inexpensive rooms.

For mid-range travelers, the Vanira Lodge and Manaeva Lodge boast great reviews.

And if you don’t mind splurging for your once-in-a-lifetime trip to the South Pacific, you might want to consider the beautiful InterContinental Tahiti—with its overwater bungalows, lavish garden setting, and beautifully appointed rooms.

BEST TIME TO VISIT TAHITI

Although the island’s temperatures remain balmy year-round, the best time to visit Tahiti is between the months of May and October.

Tahiti’s winter brings less rain and pleasant temperatures that hover in the mid-80s. During the summer months—November through April—temperatures remain pretty consistent, but you’ll likely encounter high humidity and lots of rain.

ISLAND HOPPING FROM TAHITI

Tahiti is the transportation hub of French Polynesia. Even if you decide to skip visiting the island en-route to Moorea or Bora Bora, you’ll have to fly through Tahiti’s Fa’a International Airport.

A passenger ferry travels from Tahiti to Moorea several times a day. It leaves from the Papeete port and arrives at Moorea’s Vaiare marina. Prices start at around $15 per trip.

For travelers looking to fly between French Polynesia’s islands, Air Tahiti connects the country’s main hub with smaller airports on the outer islands. Travelers going between different islands can include the short journey in their multi-island passes with Air Tahiti.

Aside from Hawaii, it is not currently possible to fly from Tahiti to other Pacific Islands. If you want to visit places like Palau, Micronesia or the Marshall Islands, you’ll have to transfer in a major airline hub.

Day trip tours from Tahiti to Tetiaroa Atoll will allow you to visit a pristine private atoll ringed with scintillating white sand and warm turquoise water.

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Tahiti isn’t the palm-fringed South Pacific island that so many people have come to romanticize. Its black sand beaches are quite different from the sparkling white sand that has become practically synonymous with French Polynesia.

But the verdant volcanic gem is replete with things to see and do.

Driving around Tahiti gives visitors a taste of the island’s contemporary culture and deep-rooted history.

And in doing so, it reveals the oft-forgotten gems that lie concealed beneath French Polynesia’s glitzy surface.

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French Polynesia is often regarded as paradise on Earth.

You’ve likely seen images of its jewel-like islands plastered on tourist brochures and social media. The South Pacific archipelago is a honeymooner’s dream. Its crystal waters, lush mountainous interior and soft white sands have long been associated with the ultimate luxurious escape.

There are simply few places on the planet that compare with French Polynesia’s exotic appeal.

THINGS TO DO IN MOOREA ON A BUDGET

Moorea is one of the most beautiful islands in French Polynesia. Though it often lies in the shadow of Bora Bora, many consider it to be equally striking.

The island of Moorea is located about 20 km off the northwest coast of Tahiti. It is a nature-lovers paradise, with towering emerald mountains and sparkling turquoise seas.

With its proclivity toward luxury travel, Moorea is not a cheap place to visit. So while the prospect of whale-watching tours, guided snorkeling excursions and all-inclusive resorts was tempting, our budget meant we had to stick to a more DIY itinerary.

Still, we found that Moorea and budget travel are not mutually exclusive. The lush emerald island is ripe with noteworthy things to do and see.

And you don’t have to take advantage of all its luxurious offerings to soak in its exquisite beauty.

VISIT MOOREA’S INTERIOR

Adorned in a cape of greenery, Moorea is as striking above-ground as it is below sea level. Sheer mountains pierce the cloud-speckled skies, like ridges on a dragon’s back.

These verdant mountains are among French Polynesia’s most defining features. Jutting out from turquoise waters, the craggy green peaks form a photogenic Jurassic-Park-like backdrop.

Top things to do in Moorea’s jungle-carpeted interior include hiking to the Belvedere, admiring remnants of the island’s marae, and soaking in the views from Magic Mountain.

• BELVEDERE

The Belvedere lookout is among the most popular places to visit in Moorea. It sits among lush forests and showcases sweeping island views.

Dan and I hiked to Moorea’s Belvedere during a bicycle trip around the island.

The views that met us were divine. In three directions, we could see jagged peaks soaring into the sky. In the fourth direction, the classic postcard picture of the Belvedere afforded us a view of  both Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay–an inlet that is famous for being the location in which Captain Cook anchored his boat in 1777.

• MARAE

Along the road to the Belvedere, a short trail leads through the forest to a cluster of marae—ceremonial stone platforms that predate the arrival of Christianity in French Polynesia.

From the main marae a  dirt track leads to a council platform and two smaller marae. Farther down the trail sits the Ahu-o-Mahine, a more recent platform of round stones with an imposing three-stepped altar.

Though not as intact as the marae on Tahiti, Moorea’s ruins are still worth a quick visit.

• MAGIC MOUNTAIN

Magic Mountain boasts some of Moorea’s most photo-worthy views. But unfortunately, Dan and I skipped the lookout due to lack of adequate pre-trip research.

To access the viewpoint, a 2.2 mile roundtrip path leads from near Pepetoai. The path is allegedly quite easy and contains very little elevation gain. From its summit, views unfold toward Opunohu Bay.

Many ATV tours include Magic Mountain in their itineraries.

CIRCLE THE ISLAND BY BIKE

Biking around Moorea lands near the top of my to-do list. For budget travelers, there’s no better way to soak in Moorea’s magnificent coastal views.

Moorea’s 65 km ring road is relatively flat, making it perfect for cycling. Along the way, it bypasses beaches, bays, cities, and forest.

You can rent both e-bikes and traditional bicycles to tour the island.

During our stay in Moorea, our AirBnb provided us access to bikes, so we do not have personal experience with rentals.

My parents, however, visited the island more recently and rented bicycles. They reported that bike rentals were convenient and cheap relative to other Moorea activities.

RELAX ON THE BEACH

Temae Beach is the best public beach on Moorea and a fantastic free snorkel destination. The idyllic stretch of sand boasts swaying palms and crystal clear waters. Its healthy coral reef teams with schools of colorful fish.

Temae Beach sits adjacent to the Sofitel resort. It is a large swath of public beach that we found surprisingly free of crowds on the days we visited.

Other noteworthy beaches on Moorea include Ta’ahiamanu Beach near Opunohu Bay and Tiahura Beach on the island’s western edge.

SNORKEL

Snorkeling is Moorea’s best budget activity, since it costs nothing and the rewards are tremendous. The island is blessed with some of the most incredible coral reef in the world. Colorful clouds of tropical fish swirl about its transparent waters and dart through elaborate coral gardens.

I’ve been snorkeling in a handful of places in my life and seen my fair share of tropical fish and colorful coral. But nothing quite prepared me for snorkeling in Moorea’s underwater world.

Indonesia’s Komodo National Park and Palau’s South Rock Islands are the only places I’ve visited that can compare.

• OFFSHORE REEF AT PLAGE TAMAE

Many of Moorea’s large hotels have snatched up the island’s most pristine stretches of reef. As a result, for travelers on a budget who are seeking a DIY underwater adventure, options can be a bit limited.

Luckily, you don’t really have to look farther than Tamae Beach. Thanks to the public beach’s proximity to one of Moorea’s best resorts, visitors can take advantage of prime snorkeling in the coral gardens near the resort’s overwater bungalows.

If you are willing to splurge on lunch or drinks at one of the island’s hotels, you’ll be granted access to their beaches. We tried this tactic when we stopped for fancy drinks at the Hilton Resort  and again at the Sofitel.

• THE LAGOONARIUM

Visiting the Lagoonarium is one of Moorea’s top attractions—and for good reason. It is a shallow lagoon that houses swarms of tropical fish, a healthy population of rays, and docile black-tipped reef sharks. Visiting the Lagoonarium costs roughly $35 for the day and the price includes a transfer to a private island within the lagoon, access to day bungalows, snorkel equipment, kayaks, picnic tables and unlimited access to the coral gardens.

Over the course of the day, Dan and I took advantage of the amenities at the Lagoonarium. We swam amongst the fish, took out the kayaks and lounged around in the shade of the beach cabanas.

Twice a day, the owner of the Lagoonarium takes visitors out to the reef to feed the resident fish. It is an unparalleled opportunity to get close and personal to the reef sharks and rays (most of whose stingers have been clipped) that reside within the shallow waters off of Moorea’s coast.

TRAVELING MOOREA ON A BUDGET

Moorea is one of the world’s ultimate romantic bucket list destinations and the high prices of everything—from  airfare to lodging and from car rentals to groceries—makes it difficult to travel to French Polynesia on a budget.

Backpacking the South Pacific is almost non-existent, and accommodation often consists of exclusive villas and high end resorts.

Thus, visiting the archipelago is often seen as a once-in-a-lifetime splurge.

But visiting French Polynesia on a budget is possible. It is even possible to travel cheaply in Bora Bora—one of the world’s most exclusive islands.

In total, our week in Moorea cost less than $1,000 for two people, everything included.

And, while cutting costs meant cooking our own food or scrimping on accommodation, the rewards of setting foot in paradise were incalculable.

• WHERE TO STAY IN MOOREA

Dan and I opted to rent out an AirBnb during our stay on Moorea. The small house we rented was essentially an ADU on a local family’s property. It was small and lacked air conditioning, but for $50 a night it proved to be our best option.

Budget travelers may also want to consider staying at PainaPaoPao Backpacker, one of the cheapest places to stay in Moorea.

Those who are not on a budget might want to check out the Hilton or the beautiful Sofitel Resort–where Dan and I spent hours lounging around the soft sands and snorkeling in the colorful reef.

I’m sure that if you can afford the splurge, the overwater bungalow experience in Moorea is unparalleled.

• EAT AT GROCERY STORES AND LOCAL RESTAURANTS

Aside from the high price of lodging, food is the most expensive cost associated with travel to French Polynesia. Luckily, there are a few great and affordable places to eat in Moorea. Our favorite by far—and the place that we returned to nearly ever day throughout our week on the island—was Chez Didier.

A local hole-in-the-wall restaurant near Papao, Chez Didier serves up delicious and filling servings of poisson cru at unbeatable prices.

When we weren’t stuffing our faces with poisson cru, we made sure to ease our budget with delicious french bread and pre-made meals from the grocery store. As Moorea is technically a territory of France, the grocery stores are equipped with cheap and delicious baguettes.

GETTING TO MOOREA

A passenger ferry travels from Tahiti to Moorea several times a day. It leaves form the Papeete port and arrives at Moorea’s Vaiare marina. Prices start at around $15 per trip.

For travelers looking to fly between the islands, a 15 minute scenic hop connects Moorea with French Polynesia’s Faa’a International Airport. Travelers going between different islands can include the short journey in their multi-island passes with Air Tahiti.

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Like millions of other dreamers and travel-lovers, I had often gazed upon images of French Polynesia’s transparent waters and longed to visit its lush, craggy mountain peaks. I pictured snorkeling in Moorea’s fish-filled waters and lounging on the island’s soft powdered sand.

Yet, like the majority of daydreamers, I too had initially dismissed traveling to the French Polynesian Islands due to high prices.

But eventually Dan and I decided to head to the South Pacific anyway, in hopes that we could find a way to travel the area cheaply.

And we’re so glad we did.

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