Cyprus is an island steeped in history and mythology. Known for being the legendary birthplace of the Greek Goddess, Aphrodite, the ‘Island of Love’ is home to sun-kissed shores and a rugged mountainous interior.

Cyprus is a country with natural beauty and cultural richness that is wholly disproportionate to its size. The country’s tumultuous and multilayered past has left ancient riches strewn across this island. Remnants of these archeological relics can still be seen today—littering wildflower-splashed mountainsides and overlooking azure seas.

During my six day Cyprus vacation, I took day trips from Larnaca to the far reaches of the island, packing my itinerary with some of the most beautiful destinations in the Mediterranean. My comprehensive six day Cyprus itinerary included many of the historical, natural and cultural gems that make the island a unique all-in-one destination.

DAY TRIPS AROUND CYPRUS

While I used Larnaca as my home base, I spent the majority of my Cyprus itinerary exploring the country’s archeological sites and national parks. For an island its size, Cyprus has a remarkable number of places to see. The island features everything from verdant mountainous scenery to glistening sandy beaches.

Instead of spending my holiday on Larnaca’s beaches, I chose to use the city as a base and fill my week in Cyprus with five distinct day trips from Larnaca; one to Turkish-influenced North Cyprus and four to the southern half of the island.

Most tourism in Cyprus centers around beach-lounging and partying. As a result, traveling the island as a budget backpacker can be an unexpected challenge. In Cyprus, public transportation between smaller towns and cities is virtually nonexistent. And while buses connect the island’s largest towns, some of the country’s top attractions can be difficult to visit without a car or organized tour.

Since I was traveling Cyprus without a car, I relied on a combination of public buses and local tours. For day trips to Paphos, Kourion and Cape Greco, I depended on the country’s public transportation network. For day trips to the Troodos Mountains and North Cyprus, however, I joined organized excursions with Eman Travel.

LARNACA

Though I spent five nights in Larnaca, I dedicated little time to the city itself. Instead, I used Larnaca as a base for exploring Cyprus—partly because of its proximity to the island’s largest international airport, and partly because of its central location.

There are surprisingly few accommodation options for those looking to travel Cyprus independently and on the cheap. While in Larnaca, I stayed at the Katka Hostel. Though the hostel was poorly signposted and difficult to find, it proved to be an inexpensive and convenient base from which to explore the island.

Larnaca’s lack of hole-in-the-wall eateries surprised me, too. Most of the restaurants in downtown Larnaca are pricey chains that cater to Americanized palettes. Notable exceptions are the cheap and tasty Souvlaki.gr near St Lazarus Cathedral, and the Cyprus Taverna on Lordou Vyronos Street.

Though Larnaca lacks big-name tourist attractions and must-see sites, the city has a pleasant restaurant-lined waterfront and a handful of interesting places to see—including a small beachside castle, a palm-lined promenade and the beautiful St Lazarus Cathedral.

CAPE GRECO NATIONAL PARK DAY TRIP

Following a fantastic day trip to North Cyprus, I decided to spend the following day on a self-guided day tour to Cape Greco National Park.

The Cape Greco Peninsula is one of the most beautiful places in Cyprus. The park lies near Ayia Napa, in the country’s southeastern corner. The area is somewhat reminiscent to Comino Island, with its cave-punctured cliffs, rugged hillsides and captivating shades of blue.

Multiple buses a day make the journey between Larnaca and Ayia Napa. The buses leave from the Larnaca waterfront and travel along the island’s southern coast to downtown Ayia Napa.

From Ayia Napa, bus 101 travels to the Cape Greco Visitor Center. Ayia Napa is also the gateway to Nissi Beach—one of the most beautiful family-friendly beaches in the Middle East.

Since the Cape Greco Visitor’s Center was closed during my visit, I picked a path and began to wander. The walk along the eastern side of Cape Greco is beautiful. The shadeless path weaves through brush and passes by a blue and white church, a delicate stone arch and numerous sweeping views of the sea. After walking along the eastern side of the peninsula and stopping every few feet to take photos, I followed a sign for the Cape Greco Sea Caves.

When I reached the caves at the water’s edge, the beauty of the water stopped me in my tracks.

The area around the sea caves is home to some of the most mesmerizing shades of blue I’ve ever seen. Before visiting Cape Greco, I never knew so many shades of blue existed in nature. The water’s colors ranged from indigo to sapphire and from cobalt to turquoise.

I was totally and utterly in awe.

PAPHOS DAY TRIP FROM LARNACA

The following day, I hopped on another bus and headed westward, toward Paphos. I’d read somewhere that Paphos is one of the top places to see in Cyprus. I’d also read that the city is vastly underwhelming and doesn’t live up to its status as the 2017 European Capital of Culture. Since Paphos constitutes a convenient day trip from Larnaca using public transport, I decided to make a trip out west to see for myself.

Paphos is one of Cyprus’ most historically rich cities. Home to two large archeological sites (the Paphos Archeological Park and the Tombs of the Kings) it is a treasure chest for history buffs and lovers of antiquities.

When I arrived in Paphos, I immediately hit the ground running. I strolled along the waterfront and snapped a few photos of the Paphos Fort. Then, I made my way to the Paphos Archeological Park in order to see some of the most beautiful mosaics in the eastern Mediterranean.

• PAPHOS ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK

There is something indescribably beautiful about the Paphos ruins. The ancient city sits tucked up against the ocean, its remnants strewn among rippling grasses that are dotted with poppies and yellow daisies.

I meant to spend an hour at the Paphos Archeological Park. On the bus ride, I’d meticulously planned out my day—mapping out the amount of time to spend at the various attractions in order to make it back to the bus stop in time for my return trip to Larnaca.

But somehow, while admiring the exquisite mosaic floors of the House of Dionysius, two and a half hours sped by and I found myself rushing toward the exit as fast as my legs could carry me.

• THE TOMB OF THE KINGS

After visiting the archeological park, I still hoped to make it to the Tombs of the Kings. I walked along the oceanfront promenade as quickly as I could, hoping to somehow shave a few minutes off the maps.me estimate.

I made it to the Tombs of the Kings far later than I had originally planned. And, breathless and gasping for air, I paid the €2,50 entrance fee and began exploring.

The Tombs of the Kings is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that lies 2km north of the Paphos Harbor. The tombs, many of which date back to the 4th century BC, never actually housed any kings. Instead, the rock-hewn chambers are thought to have accommodated Paphos’ aristocrats and high-level officials.

Like the Paphos Archeological Park, the Tombs of the Kings overlooks the cobalt Mediterranean waters. While listening to a soundtrack of crashing waves, I sped around the area’s pathways–climbing up and down stairs, peeking into small chambers and squeezing through passageways.

I found the tombs to be impressive, in large part because I wasn’t really sure what to expect.

Had I had more time, I would have loved to spend a few hours meandering about the tombs and soaking in the views of the sea.

Yet since I was traveling to Paphos as a day trip from Larnaca, I had to turn back prematurely to ensure I would have enough time to make the last return bus.

LIMASSOL AND KOURION FROM LARNACA

I had such a wonderful time meandering through the archeological wonders of Paphos, that I decided to spend my next day in Kourion–another of Cyprus’ top historical sites. Kourion sits atop a steep hill that overlooks the ocean. It is a popular day trip from Larnaca, and accessible using public transport.

To travel between Larnaca and Kourion, I had to change buses in Limassol. A direct bus from Larnaca to Limassol leaves every few hours (7 euros roundtrip). From Limassol,  bus #16 travels the remainder of the way to Kourion.

• KOURION

Kourion is a spectacular place to visit. Built in the 2nd century BC, the ancient ruins were once part of an important city state in southwestern Cyprus. The ruins sit perched on a hillside, with sweeping views of the precipitous cliffs.

I spent a few hours at the archeological site, admiring the historical relics and the Mediterranean Sea. A walk around the ruins brought me to a well-preserved Greco-Roman amphitheater and various mosaic-laden rooms and chambers. Some, including the House of Achilles and the House of Gladiators, had mosaics that rivaled those in Paphos.

• LIMASSOL

After soaking in the spectacular views of Kourion, I caught the bus back to Limassol and ate a fabulous traditional Cypriot meal at the Kipriakon Restaurant. Once I filled my stomach with delicious home-style comfort food, I spent the remainder of my day trip strolling along Limassol’s pleasant promenade.

DAY TRIP TO NICOSIA AND THE TROODOS MOUNTAINS

I spent the last day of my Cyprus itinerary exploring the island’s mountainous interior. Since the interior of Cyprus is poorly connected by public transport, I chose to join an organized tour for a whirlwind adventure through Nicosia and the Troodos Mountains.

• NICOSIA: A DIVIDED CITY

My day tour to the Troodos Mountains included a brief visit to Nicosia. During the visit, I spent about an hour meandering the streets of the old town and peeking into the Turkish-controlled areas of North Cyprus.

In contrast to the day trip I took to the northern towns of Kyrenia and Famagusta, my day trip to Nicosia and the Troodos felt slightly rushed. Both Larnaca and the Troodos would have been better suited for a full day of exploration.

• KAKOPETRIA VILLAGE, TROODOS MOUNTAINS

From Nicosia, my day tour continued with a pit-stop in Kakopetria Village. The rustic Kakopetria village is amongst the most beautiful in Cyprus. Nestled in the Solea Valley, amid verdant trees and alongside bubbling rivers, the town is an ideal place for a quiet retreat.

After allocating about an hour to Kakopetria, our tour proceed to the village of Troodos, high in the mountains. There, we ate lunch at the Troodos Hotel, before continuing toward Omodos.

• OMODOS

Omodos is an attractive village near Cyprus’ wine region. Despite a proliferation of souvenir shops and boutique hotels, the village’s backstreets have a timeless cobbled charm. As I wove through the city’s narrow alleyways and peeked into its courtyards overflowing with orange trees, I had the sensation of stepping back in time.

Though touristy, the small village of Omodos is worlds away from the high-rise resort towns and beach clubs that characterize much of southern Cyprus’ coastline.

Surrounded by the vineyard-carpeted slopes of Cyprus’ krashoria, the sleepy town of Omodos is the perfect place to sit back, sip a glass of wine, and soak in the beauty of Aphrodite’s homeland.

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Cyprus is nicknamed the ‘Isle of Love.’ And there is a lot to love about the enchanting island.

My six day Cyprus itinerary gave me a varied sampling of the island’s offerings. Throughout Cyprus, mountaintop castles and Byzantine churches lay sprinkled about—revealing ancient tombs, intricate mosaics and sites dripping with historical significance. From flower-speckled mountainsides to water so blue it matched the sky, my excursions around Cyprus revealed the country’s beauty, introduced me to its ancient history, and allowed me to understand a bit more about its complicated political present.

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Cyprus is a country divided.

CYPRUS: A COUNTRY DIVIDED

The division of Cyprus dates back to 1974, when Turkey invaded the northern third of the country in response to a Greece-backed military coup d’état. In turn, the invasion resulted in the eviction of much of the north’s Greek Cypriot population, the flight of Turkish Cypriots from the south, and the partitioning of the island along the Green Line.

The Green line is a physical barrier that cuts across Cyprus and weaves its way through the island’s capital, Nicosia. The United Nations created the buffer zone as a temporary attempt to restore peace.

Today, reconciliation in Cyprus remains a question mark. The Turkish Cypriot government occupies the northern third of the island, while the southern portion is controlled by the internationally-recognized Greek Cypriots. United Nations peacekeepers continue to patrol the Green Line

And still, despite its quasi-independence from the rest of the island, Turkey remains the only country in the world to recognize North Cyprus.

TOP PLACES TO VISIT IN NORTH CYPRUS

While most tourists visit North Cyprus for its beach resorts and oceanview rentals, the narrow slither of land has so much more to offer—from monastic ruins, to vast archaeological treasures, to once-opulent cities.

Straddling the Green Line, the complicated city of Nicosia signifies the collision of two worlds. At once, Nicosia represents East and West, division and harmony, war and reconciliation.

Further afield, the jasmine-scented old towns of Famagusta and Kyrenia resemble open-air museums that cram a fascinating history beneath their minaret-and-cathedral-speckled skylines.

Beyond the fascinating cities, the ruined Bellapais Monastery and ancient city of Salamis showcase the area’s vibrant and  historically-rich past.

NICOSIA: A DIVIDED CAPITAL

Nicosia is the last divided city in Europe. Like pre-1991 Berlin or modern-day Jerusalem, Nicosia’s barrier acts as a physical schism between East and West.

I visited North Cyprus as part of an organized day trip from Larnaca. My day tour of North Cyprus did not include a visit to Nicosia, but I traveled to the divided city nonetheless, during a tour to the Troodos Mountians a few days later. Nicosia is one of the top places to visit in Cyprus because—despite simultaneously being a part of two separate worlds—its physical setting reveals the island’s cultural and political divide.

I only had an hour to explore the partitioned city during my visit to Nicosia. However, I made the most of my short self-guided tour. As soon as our tour bus pulled beside the gates of the old city, I set out as quickly as my legs would carry me—meandering past the pretty outdoor cafes in Greek Nicosia and winding through silent courtyards in the city’s Turkish counterpart.

Crossing the border into the northern side of Nicosia is like stepping into a different world. Kebab shops populate most of the storefronts, minarets overlook the skyline and Turkish flags sway in the breeze.

Most tourists limit their exposure to North Cyprus with a visit to Nicosia. Those willing to venture further afield, however, will be rewarded with intriguing snapshots of a country that doesn’t technically exist.

While in Larnaca, I decided to book a day tour to North Cyprus in order to see the island’s Turkish-influenced region. The tour included the once-lavish city of Famagusta and the charming harbor town of Kyrenia.

FAMAGUSTA

The walled city of Famagusta is a ghost town of sorts and one of the top places to visit in North Cyprus.

In the mid-1900s, Famagusta was a popular resort town that attracted visitors from around the world. In 1974, when the Turks invaded Famagusta, they leveled much of the city— hollowing out its imposing cathedrals and causing thousands of Greek Cypriots to flee to the southern end of the island.

Famagusta’s old city lies within fortified walls. From atop the Venetian walls, the shattered shards of its once-grand churches punctuate the skyline.

Within Famagusta’s walls, its quiet lanes are haunting and eerily shambolic. Clumps of faded frescoes cling to cathedral skeletons. Birds nest in the rafters of the hollowed-out steeples. Minarets stretch skyward from where bell towers once stood.

The most prominent building in Famagusta is the evocative cathedral-turned-mosque that towers over the surrounding cityscape. The former Cathedral of Agios Nikolaos is the finest example of Gothic architecture on the island. Built in the late 1300s and modeled after France’s Cathedral of Reims, the church’s derelict skeleton was converted into a mosque after the Ottoman Empire captured Famagusta in the 1500s.

Today, the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque is one of the most extraordinary spiritual relics on the island.

Outside of Famagusta’s historical core, the city’s abandoned Varosha district expands toward the sea. Prior to the 1970s, Varosha housed high-rise buildings and hotels that were popular with vacationers from around the world.

Varosha once boasted a population of nearly 40,000 and contained bars, restaurants and shopping districts. When the Turkish Army gained control of the area, it fenced off the city and forbade anyone from entering it.

To this day, Varosha is a ghost town. The area lies in disrepair, barricaded behind a barbed-wire fence. It is an exclusion zone that has been used as a bargaining chip for furthering the cause of the Turkish Cypriots.

BELLAPAIS MONASTERY

From Famagusta, our North Cyprus day trip continued onward, to the striking Bellapais Monastery that hangs above the town of Kyrenia.

The Bellapais Monastery was built in the 12th century by monks fleeing Palestine after the fall of Jerusalem in 1187.

Today, the crumbling abbey remains in fine condition. The defining feature of the Bellapais Abbey is the structure’s arch-lined courtyard. From the courtyard, stairs lead to a rooftop that showcases panoramas of the cobalt Mediterranean Sea.

KYRENIA HARBOR

Kyrenia, also known as Girne, is often regarded as the top place to visit in North Cyprus. The picturesque harbor town looks toward the sea, backed by wildflower-speckled slopes and the silhouettes of  craggy mountain peaks.

The undisputed gem of North Cyprus, Kyrenia contains a pretty harbor and an idyllic setting. The town’s touristy harborfront displays an attractive row of old carob warehouses that have been repurposed into restaurants and shops.

Kyrenia’s old town slopes upward, from the waterfront, toward the area’s new city. Dotted with churches and mosques and adorned with bougainvillea, the atmospheric winding alleyways hold a jumble of abandoned stone buildings that are slipping into disrepair.

The imposing Byzantine Kyrenia Castle is the main place to visit in Kyrenia. The castle stands guard over the city’s harbor and offers spectacular aerial views of the city from its honey-colored walls.

Entrance to the Kyrenia Castle costs approximately $2 and includes access to the city’s shipwreck museum.

Unfortunately, the castle was closed during my visit. As a result, I was unable to visit the castle’s museums, wander through its rooms, or catch a glimpse of the ocean views that can be seen from its ramparts.

While Kyrenia’s old town boasts the city’s most treasured sites, the new town is chock-a-block full of casinos, liquor shops and tax-free shopping.

Turkish tourists flock to the area to indulge in activities that are taboo or illegal in their home country, while Greek Cypriots from the south frequent the area in order to buy discounted clothing and cigarettes.

As someone with little interest in partying or shopping, I only gave the new town a passing glance.

Instead, with limited amount of time to spend in Kyrenia, I focused on exploring the narrow winding streets and hidden architectural treasures that make this charming seaside village such an alluring destination to visit.

ADDITIONAL TOURIST ATTRACTIONS IN NORTH CYPRUS

Regrettably, my six day Cyprus itinerary did not allow for a comprehensive tour of North Cyprus. As a result, I wasn’t able to visit as many of North Cyprus’ attractions as I would have liked.

Had I had more time on the island, I would have chosen to travel to the Salamis ruins, or to the wild and remote Karpas Peninsula.

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Traveling to North Cyprus offers a fascinating peek into life beyond the Green Line.

North Cyprus only receives a fraction of the visitors who descend on the island’s southern shores. And yet—as I would quickly learn during my whirlwind day trip to Kyrenia and Famagusta—making a trip across the Green Line is a key to understanding the island’s complexity.

My brief visit to the northern part of the island showcased some of the most intriguing places to visit in North Cyprus. It highlighted the area’s cultural and architectural diversity, revealing deep societal schisms and allowing me to peel back the island’s complicated layers of history and conquest.

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